I have a Transcraft Tl-2000 semi trailer, which is in a remarkably
decent condition, considering it is 17 years old. It has superficial
surface rust, but no through holes or big pieces or rust falling off.

It was owned by a construction cmpany prior to me buying it at
auction, and it was probably not used much during winter.

Well I will need to use it during winter, so, my question, how to rust
proof it cheaply. (it cost me only $1.5k plus buyer premium). Say, can
I spray some oil on the frame every couple of months? Would that work
satisfactorily?

i

Ignoramus28180 wrote:

I have a Transcraft Tl-2000 semi trailer, which is in a remarkably
decent condition, considering it is 17 years old. It has superficial
surface rust, but no through holes or big pieces or rust falling off.

It was owned by a construction cmpany prior to me buying it at
auction, and it was probably not used much during winter.

Well I will need to use it during winter, so, my question, how to rust
proof it cheaply. (it cost me only $1.5k plus buyer premium). Say, can
I spray some oil on the frame every couple of months? Would that work
satisfactorily?

i

The best thing you can do is pressure wash the sand and salt mixture
from the winter roads off of it after each outing. In the spring wire
brush (angle grinder), prime and paint all rust spot areas before they
can get past the surface rust stage. Don't forget to drain the moisture
out of the air tanks daily as well, especially in freezing weather.

On Tue, 20 Nov 2012 21:46:18 -0600, Ignoramus28180
wrote:

I have a Transcraft Tl-2000 semi trailer, which is in a remarkably
decent condition, considering it is 17 years old. It has superficial
surface rust, but no through holes or big pieces or rust falling off.

It was owned by a construction cmpany prior to me buying it at
auction, and it was probably not used much during winter.

Well I will need to use it during winter, so, my question, how to rust
proof it cheaply. (it cost me only $1.5k plus buyer premium). Say, can
I spray some oil on the frame every couple of months? Would that work
satisfactorily?

i

Why not buy a kit and do a Rino Liner type coating over the metalwork?
It would be much cheaper than anything else other than polluting
Chicago.

On second thought....a couple gallons of used motor oil would be a
good thing. Spray it on with a bug sprayer and then drive through
Chicago and let it drip dry.

Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

On Tue, 20 Nov 2012 21:46:18 -0600, Ignoramus28180
wrote:

I have a Transcraft Tl-2000 semi trailer, which is in a remarkably
decent condition, considering it is 17 years old. It has superficial
surface rust, but no through holes or big pieces or rust falling off.

It was owned by a construction cmpany prior to me buying it at
auction, and it was probably not used much during winter.

Well I will need to use it during winter, so, my question, how to rust
proof it cheaply. (it cost me only $1.5k plus buyer premium). Say, can
I spray some oil on the frame every couple of months? Would that work
satisfactorily?

I'm interested in this thread. I've been looking into using acids to
remove (actually "convert") rust prior to paint. Dilute phosphoric
seems to be the stuff. I hope someone has done this and gives us a
story on it. I need to remove or convert rusted poles set in concrete
on my back patio prior to repainting them.

I've always thought that a good, thick coat of paint would be the best
protection against rust, but cleaning the rust off (and removing the
cleaner and broken-down materials) prior to painting has always been
the hardest part.

I wonder how hard it would be to Parkerize your entire trailer...

You have the added "benefit" of tons of salt on your roads up there,
too, don't you? Have you looked into the electronic rust prohibitors?
That "cathodic protection" concept seems pretty cool, but I understand
that it doesn't work on automobiles.

--
Every day I remind myself that my inner and outer life are
based on the labors of other men, living and dead, and that
I must exert myself in order to give in the same measure as
I have received and am still receiving.
-- Albert Einstein

Ignoramus28180 wrote:
I have a Transcraft Tl-2000 semi trailer, which is in a remarkably
decent condition, considering it is 17 years old. It has superficial
surface rust, but no through holes or big pieces or rust falling off.

It was owned by a construction cmpany prior to me buying it at
auction, and it was probably not used much during winter.

Well I will need to use it during winter, so, my question, how to rust
proof it cheaply. (it cost me only $1.5k plus buyer premium). Say, can
I spray some oil on the frame every couple of months? Would that work
satisfactorily?

i

Well you could spray it with oil BUT since that would probably land you
in jail these days (pollution and DOT checks)

You have limited options in the cheap category. Probably the cheapest
would be to blast off any current rust with a blaster loaded with slag
(NOT CHEAP SAND), then steam clean the places and spray them with a good
equipment paint.

Personally I would blast the entire thing (you can do sections to lower
the costs some) steam it and then use a good epoxy primer, topcoat that
with bed liner material. Done correctly it would probably last the rest
of the trailers life.

--
Steve W.

On 21/11/2012 11:46 AM, Ignoramus28180 wrote:
I have a Transcraft Tl-2000 semi trailer, which is in a remarkably
decent condition, considering it is 17 years old. It has superficial
surface rust, but no through holes or big pieces or rust falling off.

It was owned by a construction cmpany prior to me buying it at
auction, and it was probably not used much during winter.

Well I will need to use it during winter, so, my question, how to rust
proof it cheaply. (it cost me only $1.5k plus buyer premium). Say, can
I spray some oil on the frame every couple of months? Would that work
satisfactorily?

i



Clean it, de-rust it & spray it with something like the wurth underbody
sealer. Its good **** & very easy to spray on using something like a
cheap "kero gun".


http://www.goodspeedmotoring.com/underbody-and-texture-coating/under-coatings/wurth-underbody-seal-black-08930475-08930751.html

On 2012-11-21, Gunner wrote:
On Tue, 20 Nov 2012 21:46:18 -0600, Ignoramus28180
wrote:

I have a Transcraft Tl-2000 semi trailer, which is in a remarkably
decent condition, considering it is 17 years old. It has superficial
surface rust, but no through holes or big pieces or rust falling off.

It was owned by a construction cmpany prior to me buying it at
auction, and it was probably not used much during winter.

Well I will need to use it during winter, so, my question, how to rust
proof it cheaply. (it cost me only $1.5k plus buyer premium). Say, can
I spray some oil on the frame every couple of months? Would that work
satisfactorily?

i

Why not buy a kit and do a Rino Liner type coating over the metalwork?
It would be much cheaper than anything else other than polluting
Chicago.

On second thought....a couple gallons of used motor oil would be a
good thing. Spray it on with a bug sprayer and then drive through
Chicago and let it drip dry.

I have a lot of clean, transparent used hydraulic oil and such.

i

On 2012-11-21, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 20 Nov 2012 21:46:18 -0600, Ignoramus28180
wrote:

I have a Transcraft Tl-2000 semi trailer, which is in a remarkably
decent condition, considering it is 17 years old. It has superficial
surface rust, but no through holes or big pieces or rust falling off.

It was owned by a construction cmpany prior to me buying it at
auction, and it was probably not used much during winter.

Well I will need to use it during winter, so, my question, how to rust
proof it cheaply. (it cost me only $1.5k plus buyer premium). Say, can
I spray some oil on the frame every couple of months? Would that work
satisfactorily?

I'm interested in this thread. I've been looking into using acids to
remove (actually "convert") rust prior to paint. Dilute phosphoric
seems to be the stuff. I hope someone has done this and gives us a
story on it. I need to remove or convert rusted poles set in concrete
on my back patio prior to repainting them.

I've always thought that a good, thick coat of paint would be the best
protection against rust, but cleaning the rust off (and removing the
cleaner and broken-down materials) prior to painting has always been
the hardest part.

I wonder how hard it would be to Parkerize your entire trailer...

You have the added "benefit" of tons of salt on your roads up there,
too, don't you? Have you looked into the electronic rust prohibitors?
That "cathodic protection" concept seems pretty cool, but I understand
that it doesn't work on automobiles.


It works only where there is a complete path for current. For
automobiles, the analogue is galvanizing.

But, I thought, some clean oil sprayed on the metal every couple of
months, ought to work?
i

On 2012-11-21, Steve W. wrote:
Ignoramus28180 wrote:
I have a Transcraft Tl-2000 semi trailer, which is in a remarkably
decent condition, considering it is 17 years old. It has superficial
surface rust, but no through holes or big pieces or rust falling off.

It was owned by a construction cmpany prior to me buying it at
auction, and it was probably not used much during winter.

Well I will need to use it during winter, so, my question, how to rust
proof it cheaply. (it cost me only $1.5k plus buyer premium). Say, can
I spray some oil on the frame every couple of months? Would that work
satisfactorily?

i

Well you could spray it with oil BUT since that would probably land you
in jail these days (pollution and DOT checks)

You have limited options in the cheap category. Probably the cheapest
would be to blast off any current rust with a blaster loaded with slag
(NOT CHEAP SAND), then steam clean the places and spray them with a good
equipment paint.

Personally I would blast the entire thing (you can do sections to lower
the costs some) steam it and then use a good epoxy primer, topcoat that
with bed liner material. Done correctly it would probably last the rest
of the trailers life.


It would also cost 3x-4x what the trailer cost me.

i

On Wednesday, November 21, 2012 1:18:48 AM UTC-5, Larry Jaques wrote:



Well I will need to use it during winter, so, my question, how to rust

proof it cheaply. (it cost me only $1.5k plus buyer premium). Say, can

I spray some oil on the frame every couple of months? Would that work

satisfactorily?


I would spray it with liquid floor wax. I think that will last longer than oil.
If you are willing to spend a bit more, go to a pottery supply and buy some microcrysaline mox. mix it with paint thinner so it is sprayable and use that. Microcrystaline wax is used in Cosmoline.




I'm interested in this thread. I've been looking into using acids to

remove (actually "convert") rust prior to paint. Dilute phosphoric

seems to be the stuff. I hope someone has done this and gives us a

story on it. I need to remove or convert rusted poles set in concrete

on my back patio prior to repainting them.

You can get phosphoric acid at Tractor Supply Company. It is used in the dairy business to clean pipes. It needs to be diluted. Look around an the internet for more info. Best if you wire brush to reduce the amount of rust that has to be converted.

Dan

On Tue, 20 Nov 2012 21:46:18 -0600, Ignoramus28180
wrote:

I have a Transcraft Tl-2000 semi trailer, which is in a remarkably
decent condition, considering it is 17 years old. It has superficial

Linseed oil.


Regards,

Boris Mohar

Got Knock? - see:
Viatrack Printed Circuit Designs (among other things) http://www.viatrack.ca

void _-void-_ in the obvious place

"Ignoramus3598" wrote in message

I have a lot of clean, transparent used hydraulic oil and such.
i

I oil the beam of my log splitter with whatever I want to dispose of,
most recently bath oil. Only LPS-3 has kept it from rusting in
storage, outdoors under cover. Hydraulic oil seems to keep
already-rusted surfaces from getting worse but isn't much help on bare
steel.

Way back before they banned it I tried brushing used motor oil under a
vehicle and found it nearly useless as it washed away too quickly.
That's what made me test protective sprays including LPS-3. WD-40 is
junk, some of the others worked pretty well. LPS-3 was the easiest to
buy locally and not as messy as industrial chain lube.

Several years ago I sprayed a thin layer of undercoating on a rusty
wheelbarrow that stays out in the weather. Rust hasn't crept under and
lifted it though it's worn through in places.

I've seen LPS products at store, near me. Well, 20 miles is "somewhat" near
me. Thanks for the field report.

Have you tried LPS3 under vehicles?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...

I oil the beam of my log splitter with whatever I want to dispose of,
most recently bath oil. Only LPS-3 has kept it from rusting in
storage, outdoors under cover. Hydraulic oil seems to keep
already-rusted surfaces from getting worse but isn't much help on bare
steel.

Way back before they banned it I tried brushing used motor oil under a
vehicle and found it nearly useless as it washed away too quickly.
That's what made me test protective sprays including LPS-3. WD-40 is
junk, some of the others worked pretty well. LPS-3 was the easiest to
buy locally and not as messy as industrial chain lube.

Several years ago I sprayed a thin layer of undercoating on a rusty
wheelbarrow that stays out in the weather. Rust hasn't crept under and
lifted it though it's worn through in places.

On Wed, 21 Nov 2012 07:33:24 -0600, Ignoramus3598
wrote:

On 2012-11-21, Steve W. wrote:
Ignoramus28180 wrote:
I have a Transcraft Tl-2000 semi trailer, which is in a remarkably
decent condition, considering it is 17 years old. It has superficial
surface rust, but no through holes or big pieces or rust falling off.

It was owned by a construction cmpany prior to me buying it at
auction, and it was probably not used much during winter.

Well I will need to use it during winter, so, my question, how to rust
proof it cheaply. (it cost me only $1.5k plus buyer premium). Say, can
I spray some oil on the frame every couple of months? Would that work
satisfactorily?

i

Well you could spray it with oil BUT since that would probably land you
in jail these days (pollution and DOT checks)

You have limited options in the cheap category. Probably the cheapest
would be to blast off any current rust with a blaster loaded with slag
(NOT CHEAP SAND), then steam clean the places and spray them with a good
equipment paint.

Personally I would blast the entire thing (you can do sections to lower
the costs some) steam it and then use a good epoxy primer, topcoat that
with bed liner material. Done correctly it would probably last the rest
of the trailers life.


It would also cost 3x-4x what the trailer cost me.

And your point is...? There are no perfect solutions that aren't
hella expensive. Like stripping the trailer to the bare steel major
components and getting the whole thing Hot Dip Galvanized. Then you
have to put it all back together again...

Get the trailer up in the air a little on cribbing. Better if you can
get one side up at a 30 - 45-degree angle to make it easier.

Crawl under and spot-blast the rusty places then prime and paint them.
Touch up all the paint under the trailer that's scratched or
disrupted.

Then hose it out every chance you get during the winter to knock the
salt off - especially on the tops of the frame rails and axles where
it sits.

And every few years get under there to search out new rusty spots and
clean, blast, prime and paint again.

-- Bruce --

On 11/20/2012 9:46 PM, Ignoramus28180 wrote:
I have a Transcraft Tl-2000 semi trailer, which is in a remarkably
decent condition, considering it is 17 years old. It has superficial
surface rust, but no through holes or big pieces or rust falling off.
....

Well I will need to use it during winter, so, my question, how to rust
proof it cheaply. (it cost me only $1.5k plus buyer premium). Say, can
I spray some oil on the frame every couple of months? Would that work
satisfactorily?

Actually, I'd probably not worry about it--it'll outlast you, anyway...

If you really want to do something, I'd suggest one of the
rust-converting undercoating and then repaint the problem areas.

--

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...

I oil the beam of my log splitter with whatever I want to dispose
of,
most recently bath oil. Only LPS-3 has kept it from rusting in
storage, outdoors under cover. Hydraulic oil seems to keep
already-rusted surfaces from getting worse but isn't much help on
bare
steel.

Way back before they banned it I tried brushing used motor oil under
a
vehicle and found it nearly useless as it washed away too quickly.
That's what made me test protective sprays including LPS-3. WD-40 is
junk, some of the others worked pretty well. LPS-3 was the easiest
to
buy locally and not as messy as industrial chain lube.

Several years ago I sprayed a thin layer of undercoating on a rusty
wheelbarrow that stays out in the weather. Rust hasn't crept under
and
lifted it though it's worn through in places.
=======================================

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
I've seen LPS products at store, near me. Well, 20 miles is
"somewhat" near
me. Thanks for the field report.

Have you tried LPS3 under vehicles?

Christopher A. Young

I've sprayed them every fall for decades, been doing it this morning.
It slows rusting down very substantially but doesn't completely stop
it on surfaces exposed to tire splash or engine heat. It works better
in protected areas and keeps bolt threads from rusting as long as I've
owned the vehicle, 20+ years for my truck.

I use the hand spray bottle and dilute it with solvent to make it go
further and soak into rust and crevices better. The aerosol cans are
wasteful and the thick waxy layer they leave soon fills with dirt and
falls or washes away under a car, so I apply it more lightly that a
single coat of spray paint, only enough for the thin surface rust to
absorb. An hour later it's invisible.

On my tractor bucket loader it kept bare machined surfaces from
rusting for about 5 years, except where hydraulic oil leaks washed it
off.

On Wed, 21 Nov 2012 07:32:48 -0600, Ignoramus3598
wrote:

On 2012-11-21, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 20 Nov 2012 21:46:18 -0600, Ignoramus28180
wrote:

I have a Transcraft Tl-2000 semi trailer, which is in a remarkably
decent condition, considering it is 17 years old. It has superficial
surface rust, but no through holes or big pieces or rust falling off.

It was owned by a construction cmpany prior to me buying it at
auction, and it was probably not used much during winter.

Well I will need to use it during winter, so, my question, how to rust
proof it cheaply. (it cost me only $1.5k plus buyer premium). Say, can
I spray some oil on the frame every couple of months? Would that work
satisfactorily?

I'm interested in this thread. I've been looking into using acids to
remove (actually "convert") rust prior to paint. Dilute phosphoric
seems to be the stuff. I hope someone has done this and gives us a
story on it. I need to remove or convert rusted poles set in concrete
on my back patio prior to repainting them.

I've always thought that a good, thick coat of paint would be the best
protection against rust, but cleaning the rust off (and removing the
cleaner and broken-down materials) prior to painting has always been
the hardest part.

I wonder how hard it would be to Parkerize your entire trailer...

You have the added "benefit" of tons of salt on your roads up there,
too, don't you? Have you looked into the electronic rust prohibitors?
That "cathodic protection" concept seems pretty cool, but I understand
that it doesn't work on automobiles.


It works only where there is a complete path for current. For
automobiles, the analogue is galvanizing.

But, I thought, some clean oil sprayed on the metal every couple of
months, ought to work?

I'd be willing to bet that if your local PTBs got wind of a business
spreading oil around, they'd fine you so quick, your head would spin.

--
Good ideas alter the power balance in relationships, that is why
good ideas are always initially resisted. Good ideas come with a
heavy burden. Which is why so few people have them. So few people
can handle it.
-- Hugh Macleod

"Pete C." wrote:

Ignoramus28180 wrote:

I have a Transcraft Tl-2000 semi trailer, which is in a remarkably
decent condition, considering it is 17 years old. It has superficial
surface rust, but no through holes or big pieces or rust falling off.

It was owned by a construction cmpany prior to me buying it at
auction, and it was probably not used much during winter.

Well I will need to use it during winter, so, my question, how to rust
proof it cheaply. (it cost me only $1.5k plus buyer premium). Say, can
I spray some oil on the frame every couple of months? Would that work
satisfactorily?

i

The best thing you can do is pressure wash the sand and salt mixture
from the winter roads off of it after each outing. In the spring wire
brush (angle grinder), prime and paint all rust spot areas before they
can get past the surface rust stage. Don't forget to drain the moisture
out of the air tanks daily as well, especially in freezing weather.

Really, I spent 34 years in the frozen northeast, just washing off the
sand and salt crud from the underside of a vehicle regularly during the
winter is what works.

Stormin Mormon wrote:
I've seen LPS products at store, near me. Well, 20 miles is "somewhat" near
me. Thanks for the field report.

Have you tried LPS3 under vehicles?

What's the deal with with lps-2 and lps-3 being impossible to locate in
any stores?

I'm in Chicago, and nobody carries anything but the plain oil, lps-1.

A few places will special order a case of 12 cans, but that's not what I
want.

Are there an equivalent products from another company that has a real
distribution network?

Being in NYS, I don't know.

Have you considered buying from Amazon, for example?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Cydrome Leader" wrote in message
...
Stormin Mormon wrote:
I've seen LPS products at store, near me. Well, 20 miles is "somewhat"
near
me. Thanks for the field report.

Have you tried LPS3 under vehicles?

What's the deal with with lps-2 and lps-3 being impossible to locate in
any stores?

I'm in Chicago, and nobody carries anything but the plain oil, lps-1.

A few places will special order a case of 12 cans, but that's not what I
want.

Are there an equivalent products from another company that has a real
distribution network?

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...

What's the deal with with lps-2 and lps-3 being impossible to locate
in
any stores?

Are there an equivalent products from another company that has a
real
distribution network?

Test these and report back to us:
http://www.homedepot.com/buy/stops-r...or-224284.html
http://store.rvdirect.com/rvdirect/d...p?ITEM=1806026
http://www.amazon.com/s?rh=n%3A15718...rust+inhibitor

On Wed, 21 Nov 2012 07:31:49 -0600, Ignoramus3598
wrote:

On 2012-11-21, Gunner wrote:
On Tue, 20 Nov 2012 21:46:18 -0600, Ignoramus28180
wrote:

I have a Transcraft Tl-2000 semi trailer, which is in a remarkably
decent condition, considering it is 17 years old. It has superficial
surface rust, but no through holes or big pieces or rust falling off.

It was owned by a construction cmpany prior to me buying it at
auction, and it was probably not used much during winter.

Well I will need to use it during winter, so, my question, how to rust
proof it cheaply. (it cost me only $1.5k plus buyer premium). Say, can
I spray some oil on the frame every couple of months? Would that work
satisfactorily?

i

Why not buy a kit and do a Rino Liner type coating over the metalwork?
It would be much cheaper than anything else other than polluting
Chicago.

On second thought....a couple gallons of used motor oil would be a
good thing. Spray it on with a bug sprayer and then drive through
Chicago and let it drip dry.

I have a lot of clean, transparent used hydraulic oil and such.

i
What..no carcinogen ridden used oil that Chicagoans will appreciate?

Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

On Wed, 21 Nov 2012 07:33:24 -0600, Ignoramus3598
wrote:

On 2012-11-21, Steve W. wrote:
Ignoramus28180 wrote:
I have a Transcraft Tl-2000 semi trailer, which is in a remarkably
decent condition, considering it is 17 years old. It has superficial
surface rust, but no through holes or big pieces or rust falling off.

It was owned by a construction cmpany prior to me buying it at
auction, and it was probably not used much during winter.

Well I will need to use it during winter, so, my question, how to rust
proof it cheaply. (it cost me only $1.5k plus buyer premium). Say, can
I spray some oil on the frame every couple of months? Would that work
satisfactorily?

i

Well you could spray it with oil BUT since that would probably land you
in jail these days (pollution and DOT checks)

You have limited options in the cheap category. Probably the cheapest
would be to blast off any current rust with a blaster loaded with slag
(NOT CHEAP SAND), then steam clean the places and spray them with a good
equipment paint.

Personally I would blast the entire thing (you can do sections to lower
the costs some) steam it and then use a good epoxy primer, topcoat that
with bed liner material. Done correctly it would probably last the rest
of the trailers life.


It would also cost 3x-4x what the trailer cost me.

i

So if I were given a 2009 Cadillac for free..I shouldnt change the
oil, because it costs more than I paid for the car?

fascinating!!


The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

Attribution corrected.

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...

"Cydrome Leader" wrote in message
...

What's the deal with with lps-2 and lps-3 being impossible to locate
in
any stores?

Are there an equivalent products from another company that has a
real
distribution network?

Test these and report back to us:
http://www.homedepot.com/buy/stops-r...or-224284.html
http://store.rvdirect.com/rvdirect/d...p?ITEM=1806026
http://www.amazon.com/s?rh=n%3A15718...rust+inhibitor

Gunner wrote:

What..no carcinogen ridden used oil that Chicagoans will appreciate?


Don't they already have enough dead Democrats voting there?

"Ignoramus28180" wrote in message
...
I have a Transcraft Tl-2000 semi trailer, which is in a remarkably
decent condition, considering it is 17 years old. It has superficial
surface rust, but no through holes or big pieces or rust falling off.

It was owned by a construction cmpany prior to me buying it at
auction, and it was probably not used much during winter.

Well I will need to use it during winter, so, my question, how to rust
proof it cheaply. (it cost me only $1.5k plus buyer premium). Say, can
I spray some oil on the frame every couple of months? Would that work
satisfactorily?

i

http://www.corrosionx.com/

truck dealer upstate recommended it. I haven't used it yet.

On Tue, 20 Nov 2012 21:46:18 -0600, Ignoramus28180
wrote:

I have a Transcraft Tl-2000 semi trailer, which is in a remarkably
decent condition, considering it is 17 years old. It has superficial
surface rust, but no through holes or big pieces or rust falling off.

It was owned by a construction cmpany prior to me buying it at
auction, and it was probably not used much during winter.

Well I will need to use it during winter, so, my question, how to rust
proof it cheaply. (it cost me only $1.5k plus buyer premium). Say, can
I spray some oil on the frame every couple of months? Would that work
satisfactorily?

i
Krown rust control or Rust Check (or in the US, Rusty Jones)

On Wed, 21 Nov 2012 16:16:05 +0800, Spuckle wrote:

On 21/11/2012 11:46 AM, Ignoramus28180 wrote:
I have a Transcraft Tl-2000 semi trailer, which is in a remarkably
decent condition, considering it is 17 years old. It has superficial
surface rust, but no through holes or big pieces or rust falling off.

It was owned by a construction cmpany prior to me buying it at
auction, and it was probably not used much during winter.

Well I will need to use it during winter, so, my question, how to rust
proof it cheaply. (it cost me only $1.5k plus buyer premium). Say, can
I spray some oil on the frame every couple of months? Would that work
satisfactorily?

i



Clean it, de-rust it & spray it with something like the wurth underbody
sealer. Its good **** & very easy to spray on using something like a
cheap "kero gun".


http://www.goodspeedmotoring.com/underbody-and-texture-coating/under-coatings/wurth-underbody-seal-black-08930475-08930751.html
OIne problem with the Wurth underbody coating. ANY damage and
moisture gets in behind, and you end up with a plastic/rust sandwich.
You want something that stays soft and sticks to the surface of the
metal.

On Nov 21, 1:05*pm, "Pete C." wrote:
"Pete C." wrote:

Ignoramus28180 wrote:

I have a Transcraft Tl-2000 semi trailer, which is in a remarkably
decent condition, considering it is 17 years old. It has superficial
surface rust, but no through holes or big pieces or rust falling off.

It was owned by a construction cmpany prior to me buying it at
auction, and it was probably not used much during winter.

Well I will need to use it during winter, so, my question, how to rust
proof it cheaply. (it cost me only $1.5k plus buyer premium). Say, can
I spray some oil on the frame every couple of months? Would that work
satisfactorily?

i

The best thing you can do is pressure wash the sand and salt mixture
from the winter roads off of it after each outing. In the spring wire
brush (angle grinder), prime and paint all rust spot areas before they
can get past the surface rust stage. Don't forget to drain the moisture
out of the air tanks daily as well, especially in freezing weather.

Really, I spent 34 years in the frozen northeast, just washing off the
sand and salt crud from the underside of a vehicle regularly during the
winter is what works.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

That's the best route.

I also point out that limiting the freeze thaw cycles helps...lower
temps prevents the melting and spreading of water/salt.

In other words, park the trailer outside in the cold when possible.

TMT

On Nov 21, 4:05*pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
Being in NYS, I don't know.

Have you considered buying from Amazon, for example?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

"Cydrome Leader" wrote in message

...

Stormin Mormon wrote:
I've seen LPS products at store, near me. Well, 20 miles is "somewhat"
near
me. Thanks for the field report.

Have you tried LPS3 under vehicles?

What's the deal with with lps-2 and lps-3 being impossible to locate in
any stores?

I'm in Chicago, and nobody carries anything but the plain oil, lps-1.

A few places will special order a case of 12 cans, but that's not what I
want.

Are there an equivalent products from another company that has a real
distribution network?

LOL...about a month ago I bought a sweet little lathe and needed some
LPS3...went to a store..nothing there. Went to another, and another
and another...and no LPS3...WTH.

Then I stopped to consider how much it is ($$$) and how seldom the
average guy would want it and realized that I was getting screwed by
JIT...no one wants slow moving inventory during slow times.

Finally found a dusty can of LPS3 at an Ace Hardware.

I also note that Walmart carries a clone product (I forget the name)
that is comparable...but costs about twice the price of LPS3.

TMT

On Wed, 21 Nov 2012 18:25:11 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Gunner wrote:

What..no carcinogen ridden used oil that Chicagoans will appreciate?


Don't they already have enough dead Democrats voting there?

Hummm true indeed. Chicago Zombies.


The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

Too_Many_Tools wrote:
On Nov 21, 4:05?pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
Being in NYS, I don't know.

Have you considered buying from Amazon, for example?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
?www.lds.org
.

"Cydrome Leader" wrote in message

...

Stormin Mormon wrote:
I've seen LPS products at store, near me. Well, 20 miles is "somewhat"
near
me. Thanks for the field report.

Have you tried LPS3 under vehicles?

What's the deal with with lps-2 and lps-3 being impossible to locate in
any stores?

I'm in Chicago, and nobody carries anything but the plain oil, lps-1.

A few places will special order a case of 12 cans, but that's not what I
want.

Are there an equivalent products from another company that has a real
distribution network?

LOL...about a month ago I bought a sweet little lathe and needed some
LPS3...went to a store..nothing there. Went to another, and another
and another...and no LPS3...WTH.

Then I stopped to consider how much it is ($$$) and how seldom the
average guy would want it and realized that I was getting screwed by
JIT...no one wants slow moving inventory during slow times.

Finally found a dusty can of LPS3 at an Ace Hardware.

I also note that Walmart carries a clone product (I forget the name)
that is comparable...but costs about twice the price of LPS3.

Grainger wants something like $20/can +tax so we're at over $22 here, and
that's some special order deal too. Pass.

The local welding shop could get a 12 case for $13/can which sounds about
right, but then there's the 10 cans I don't want. People at the Ace
hardware and other industrial supply places know what the stuff is, but
don't recall when they saw it last. Everybody ls the lps-1 though.

Legit places won't ship a can of the stuff as it's hazmat or something.

Most market places on amazon wanted about $10 for the stuff and $10
shipping last time I looked. I don't subscribe to the making money off
shipping scam like on ebay, so I passed on that too.

It's pretty goofy.

On Thu, 22 Nov 2012 20:49:45 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
wrote:

Too_Many_Tools wrote:
On Nov 21, 4:05?pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
Being in NYS, I don't know.

Have you considered buying from Amazon, for example?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
?www.lds.org
.

"Cydrome Leader" wrote in message

...

Stormin Mormon wrote:
I've seen LPS products at store, near me. Well, 20 miles is "somewhat"
near
me. Thanks for the field report.

Have you tried LPS3 under vehicles?

What's the deal with with lps-2 and lps-3 being impossible to locate in
any stores?

I'm in Chicago, and nobody carries anything but the plain oil, lps-1.

A few places will special order a case of 12 cans, but that's not what I
want.

Are there an equivalent products from another company that has a real
distribution network?

LOL...about a month ago I bought a sweet little lathe and needed some
LPS3...went to a store..nothing there. Went to another, and another
and another...and no LPS3...WTH.

Then I stopped to consider how much it is ($$$) and how seldom the
average guy would want it and realized that I was getting screwed by
JIT...no one wants slow moving inventory during slow times.

Finally found a dusty can of LPS3 at an Ace Hardware.

I also note that Walmart carries a clone product (I forget the name)
that is comparable...but costs about twice the price of LPS3.

Grainger wants something like $20/can +tax so we're at over $22 here, and
that's some special order deal too. Pass.

The local welding shop could get a 12 case for $13/can which sounds about
right, but then there's the 10 cans I don't want. People at the Ace
hardware and other industrial supply places know what the stuff is, but
don't recall when they saw it last. Everybody ls the lps-1 though.

Legit places won't ship a can of the stuff as it's hazmat or something.

Most market places on amazon wanted about $10 for the stuff and $10
shipping last time I looked. I don't subscribe to the making money off
shipping scam like on ebay, so I passed on that too.

It's pretty goofy.

Check most bearing houses. Part of their front counter area typically
is greases, lubes and whatnot. LPS products are generally prominent in
every one Ive gone into.

As well as Applied Industrial Technologies and similar outlets.

Just don't go in in late fall...seems LPS3 tends to get snagged by
companies winterizing.

Ooops!
G

Gunner










The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

Would you like me to check the store where I saw it last? Let you know what
their price is, and maybe find out if I can ship to you from NYS?

Google Shopping shows in the $13 range.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Cydrome Leader" wrote in message
...

Grainger wants something like $20/can +tax so we're at over $22 here, and
that's some special order deal too. Pass.

The local welding shop could get a 12 case for $13/can which sounds about
right, but then there's the 10 cans I don't want. People at the Ace
hardware and other industrial supply places know what the stuff is, but
don't recall when they saw it last. Everybody ls the lps-1 though.

Legit places won't ship a can of the stuff as it's hazmat or something.

Most market places on amazon wanted about $10 for the stuff and $10
shipping last time I looked. I don't subscribe to the making money off
shipping scam like on ebay, so I passed on that too.

It's pretty goofy.

Ignoramus3598 wrote:

On 2012-11-21, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 20 Nov 2012 21:46:18 -0600, Ignoramus28180
wrote:

I have a Transcraft Tl-2000 semi trailer, which is in a remarkably
decent condition, considering it is 17 years old. It has superficial
surface rust, but no through holes or big pieces or rust falling off.

It was owned by a construction cmpany prior to me buying it at
auction, and it was probably not used much during winter.

Well I will need to use it during winter, so, my question, how to rust
proof it cheaply. (it cost me only $1.5k plus buyer premium). Say, can
I spray some oil on the frame every couple of months? Would that work
satisfactorily?

I'm interested in this thread. I've been looking into using acids to
remove (actually "convert") rust prior to paint. Dilute phosphoric
seems to be the stuff. I hope someone has done this and gives us a
story on it. I need to remove or convert rusted poles set in concrete
on my back patio prior to repainting them.

I've always thought that a good, thick coat of paint would be the best
protection against rust, but cleaning the rust off (and removing the
cleaner and broken-down materials) prior to painting has always been
the hardest part.

I wonder how hard it would be to Parkerize your entire trailer...

You have the added "benefit" of tons of salt on your roads up there,
too, don't you? Have you looked into the electronic rust prohibitors?
That "cathodic protection" concept seems pretty cool, but I understand
that it doesn't work on automobiles.


It works only where there is a complete path for current. For
automobiles, the analogue is galvanizing.

But, I thought, some clean oil sprayed on the metal every couple of
months, ought to work?
i

Hydraulic oil has lots of rust inhibitors (compared to
engine oil). It will work well. It combines well with
the existing rust to make an effective barrier. Thin it
with naphtha so that it soaks in.

On 2012-11-23, jim "sjedgingN0Sp"@m wrote:


Ignoramus3598 wrote:

On 2012-11-21, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 20 Nov 2012 21:46:18 -0600, Ignoramus28180
wrote:

I have a Transcraft Tl-2000 semi trailer, which is in a remarkably
decent condition, considering it is 17 years old. It has superficial
surface rust, but no through holes or big pieces or rust falling off.

It was owned by a construction cmpany prior to me buying it at
auction, and it was probably not used much during winter.

Well I will need to use it during winter, so, my question, how to rust
proof it cheaply. (it cost me only $1.5k plus buyer premium). Say, can
I spray some oil on the frame every couple of months? Would that work
satisfactorily?

I'm interested in this thread. I've been looking into using acids to
remove (actually "convert") rust prior to paint. Dilute phosphoric
seems to be the stuff. I hope someone has done this and gives us a
story on it. I need to remove or convert rusted poles set in concrete
on my back patio prior to repainting them.

I've always thought that a good, thick coat of paint would be the best
protection against rust, but cleaning the rust off (and removing the
cleaner and broken-down materials) prior to painting has always been
the hardest part.

I wonder how hard it would be to Parkerize your entire trailer...

You have the added "benefit" of tons of salt on your roads up there,
too, don't you? Have you looked into the electronic rust prohibitors?
That "cathodic protection" concept seems pretty cool, but I understand
that it doesn't work on automobiles.


It works only where there is a complete path for current. For
automobiles, the analogue is galvanizing.

But, I thought, some clean oil sprayed on the metal every couple of
months, ought to work?
i

Hydraulic oil has lots of rust inhibitors (compared to
engine oil). It will work well. It combines well with
the existing rust to make an effective barrier. Thin it
with naphtha so that it soaks in.

I have lots of hydraulic oil, new and used, but all clean.

i

Ignoramus31399 wrote:
On 2012-11-23, jim "sjedgingN0Sp"@m wrote:

Ignoramus3598 wrote:
On 2012-11-21, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 20 Nov 2012 21:46:18 -0600, Ignoramus28180
wrote:

I have a Transcraft Tl-2000 semi trailer, which is in a remarkably
decent condition, considering it is 17 years old. It has superficial
surface rust, but no through holes or big pieces or rust falling off.

It was owned by a construction cmpany prior to me buying it at
auction, and it was probably not used much during winter.

Well I will need to use it during winter, so, my question, how to rust
proof it cheaply. (it cost me only $1.5k plus buyer premium). Say, can
I spray some oil on the frame every couple of months? Would that work
satisfactorily?
I'm interested in this thread. I've been looking into using acids to
remove (actually "convert") rust prior to paint. Dilute phosphoric
seems to be the stuff. I hope someone has done this and gives us a
story on it. I need to remove or convert rusted poles set in concrete
on my back patio prior to repainting them.

I've always thought that a good, thick coat of paint would be the best
protection against rust, but cleaning the rust off (and removing the
cleaner and broken-down materials) prior to painting has always been
the hardest part.

I wonder how hard it would be to Parkerize your entire trailer...

You have the added "benefit" of tons of salt on your roads up there,
too, don't you? Have you looked into the electronic rust prohibitors?
That "cathodic protection" concept seems pretty cool, but I understand
that it doesn't work on automobiles.

It works only where there is a complete path for current. For
automobiles, the analogue is galvanizing.

But, I thought, some clean oil sprayed on the metal every couple of
months, ought to work?
i
Hydraulic oil has lots of rust inhibitors (compared to
engine oil). It will work well. It combines well with
the existing rust to make an effective barrier. Thin it
with naphtha so that it soaks in.

I have lots of hydraulic oil, new and used, but all clean.

i

And STILL illegal to use this way. BUT go ahead. Just don't start crying
when someone comes knocking on the door...

--
Steve W.

On 2012-11-23, Steve W. wrote:
Ignoramus31399 wrote:
On 2012-11-23, jim "sjedgingN0Sp"@m wrote:

Ignoramus3598 wrote:
On 2012-11-21, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 20 Nov 2012 21:46:18 -0600, Ignoramus28180
wrote:

I have a Transcraft Tl-2000 semi trailer, which is in a remarkably
decent condition, considering it is 17 years old. It has superficial
surface rust, but no through holes or big pieces or rust falling off.

It was owned by a construction cmpany prior to me buying it at
auction, and it was probably not used much during winter.

Well I will need to use it during winter, so, my question, how to rust
proof it cheaply. (it cost me only $1.5k plus buyer premium). Say, can
I spray some oil on the frame every couple of months? Would that work
satisfactorily?
I'm interested in this thread. I've been looking into using acids to
remove (actually "convert") rust prior to paint. Dilute phosphoric
seems to be the stuff. I hope someone has done this and gives us a
story on it. I need to remove or convert rusted poles set in concrete
on my back patio prior to repainting them.

I've always thought that a good, thick coat of paint would be the best
protection against rust, but cleaning the rust off (and removing the
cleaner and broken-down materials) prior to painting has always been
the hardest part.

I wonder how hard it would be to Parkerize your entire trailer...

You have the added "benefit" of tons of salt on your roads up there,
too, don't you? Have you looked into the electronic rust prohibitors?
That "cathodic protection" concept seems pretty cool, but I understand
that it doesn't work on automobiles.

It works only where there is a complete path for current. For
automobiles, the analogue is galvanizing.

But, I thought, some clean oil sprayed on the metal every couple of
months, ought to work?
i
Hydraulic oil has lots of rust inhibitors (compared to
engine oil). It will work well. It combines well with
the existing rust to make an effective barrier. Thin it
with naphtha so that it soaks in.

I have lots of hydraulic oil, new and used, but all clean.

i

And STILL illegal to use this way. BUT go ahead. Just don't start crying
when someone comes knocking on the door...


Steve, I do not want to get in trouble with DOT or police, I am a new
DOT registrant and want everything to be on the up and up. What
exactly is the rule or law that you are referring to?

Ignoramus31399 wrote:

i
Hydraulic oil has lots of rust inhibitors (compared to
engine oil). It will work well. It combines well with
the existing rust to make an effective barrier. Thin it
with naphtha so that it soaks in.
I have lots of hydraulic oil, new and used, but all clean.

i
And STILL illegal to use this way. BUT go ahead. Just don't start crying
when someone comes knocking on the door...


Steve, I do not want to get in trouble with DOT or police, I am a new
DOT registrant and want everything to be on the up and up. What
exactly is the rule or law that you are referring to?

There is a requirement on the DOT books to check vehicles for oil
leakage or excessive oil seepage.


http://www.ehow.com/list_6863823_con...g-car-oil.html

"The EPA states illegal dumping of motor oil, or any hazardous waste to
be "the disposal of waste in an unpermitted area, such as a back area of
a yard, along stream bank[s], down storm drains or at some other
off-road area". Waste is considered not only motor oil, but any solid,
liquid, sludge or gas such as cleaning solutions, lubricants and
leftover chemicals from commercial or private use."


Somewhere in this mess you will find the laws.
http://www.epa.state.il.us/land/illegal-dumping/
--
Steve W.

On Fri, 23 Nov 2012 10:08:16 -0500, "Steve W."
wrote:

Ignoramus31399 wrote:

i
Hydraulic oil has lots of rust inhibitors (compared to
engine oil). It will work well. It combines well with
the existing rust to make an effective barrier. Thin it
with naphtha so that it soaks in.
I have lots of hydraulic oil, new and used, but all clean.

i
And STILL illegal to use this way. BUT go ahead. Just don't start crying
when someone comes knocking on the door...


Steve, I do not want to get in trouble with DOT or police, I am a new
DOT registrant and want everything to be on the up and up. What
exactly is the rule or law that you are referring to?

There is a requirement on the DOT books to check vehicles for oil
leakage or excessive oil seepage.

Which is for SAFETY reasons, I believe.