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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#41
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Keeping a trailer frame from rusting
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#42
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Keeping a trailer frame from rusting
On Fri, 23 Nov 2012 14:15:17 -0600, Ignoramus1661
wrote: On 2012-11-23, wrote: On Fri, 23 Nov 2012 10:08:16 -0500, "Steve W." wrote: And STILL illegal to use this way. BUT go ahead. Just don't start crying when someone comes knocking on the door... Steve, I do not want to get in trouble with DOT or police, I am a new DOT registrant and want everything to be on the up and up. What exactly is the rule or law that you are referring to? There is a requirement on the DOT books to check vehicles for oil leakage or excessive oil seepage. Which is for SAFETY reasons, I believe. Part of the pre-trip check, no leaks from engine or other oily places. That specifically does not apply to wiping the frame down with oil. Hell it doesn't. Okay, an Officer has just pulled you over and decided to poke around under the truck, and they find oil all over everything. Now it's up to you to prove that you applied every drop of oil on the chassis and undercarriage, to the satisfaction of the Highway Patrol officer or the EPA Inspector. That's going to be a VERY tall order, especially when he's looking for someone to fill his quota * for the week. (* Officially, there is no "Quota" on peace officers for writing tickets - those are illegal, just like Bribing A Peace Officer is... But they usually have "Productivity Guidelines" that they have to meet. And conveniently enough, those aren't illegal...) You have a choice - you can get busted for having an uncontrolled oil leak on the tractor that will get you hauled in for a Very Detailed Teardown, or you can get busted by the EPA for illegal dumping of waste oil on the roads and highways. Now you might get a choice from the Judge as to which one you can get out from under easier and cheaper - but either way, they'll have you dead to rights and you are going down. Wouldn't it be smarter not to make a mess for yourself in the first place? Just get it all cleaned up and painted under the tractor and trailer chassis to keep the rust from finding a starting place. Do NOT use "Undercoating" because it can rust underneath that for quite a while before you see it, and it's often too late. Make yourself a washdown pit in the driveway - a concrete slab with a trench drain going to a grease trap (look up Jensen Precast or there's probably someone making them in the region) then the storm or sanitary sewer. And a 1/2" pipe crossing the slab in a slot (formed by a 2X4 on end) with holes drilled in it's top, 1/4" pipe couplers welded in, and a few fan-spray washer heads screwed into them. The nozzles need to end up just below the trench a bit, to where tires won't damage them. Connect the pipe to a "Hotsy" heated pressure washer cranked up to 11. You do NOT want high powered jets that will work it's way into electronic connections and mess things up, you want a fan spray of near-boiling water mist that will melt any packed snow and salt slush and flush the salt and dirt off everything. Turn the system on and let it warm up. Then drive slowly over the washer bay and hose the salt and crap off the chassis of the tractor and trailer - and while it's hot and running take all your other cars and pickups over it too. The oils and greases will stop in the grease trap (or at least that's the theory...) and the heavy dirt will settle to the bottom. The rest will be dealt with by the sewer plant - or send it to the storm drains or the creek if they'll let you. Either way, you'll need to talk to the Wastewater Department of the city to get a Car Wash permit and see how they want the waste water dealt with.. If you can get Reclaimed Water from the sewer plant, it'll be worth it to water the bushes and run the Wash Pit. No sense using fresh potable water at triple the price if you can get Reclaimed. -- Bruce -- |
#43
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Keeping a trailer frame from rusting
On Fri, 23 Nov 2012 20:21:17 -0800, "Bruce L. Bergman (munged human
readable)" wrote: On Fri, 23 Nov 2012 14:15:17 -0600, Ignoramus1661 wrote: On 2012-11-23, wrote: On Fri, 23 Nov 2012 10:08:16 -0500, "Steve W." wrote: And STILL illegal to use this way. BUT go ahead. Just don't start crying when someone comes knocking on the door... Steve, I do not want to get in trouble with DOT or police, I am a new DOT registrant and want everything to be on the up and up. What exactly is the rule or law that you are referring to? There is a requirement on the DOT books to check vehicles for oil leakage or excessive oil seepage. Which is for SAFETY reasons, I believe. Part of the pre-trip check, no leaks from engine or other oily places. That specifically does not apply to wiping the frame down with oil. Hell it doesn't. Okay, an Officer has just pulled you over and decided to poke around under the truck, and they find oil all over everything. Now it's up to you to prove that you applied every drop of oil on the chassis and undercarriage, to the satisfaction of the Highway Patrol officer or the EPA Inspector. That's going to be a VERY tall order, especially when he's looking for someone to fill his quota * for the week. (* Officially, there is no "Quota" on peace officers for writing tickets - those are illegal, just like Bribing A Peace Officer is... But they usually have "Productivity Guidelines" that they have to meet. And conveniently enough, those aren't illegal...) You have a choice - you can get busted for having an uncontrolled oil leak on the tractor that will get you hauled in for a Very Detailed Teardown, or you can get busted by the EPA for illegal dumping of waste oil on the roads and highways. Now you might get a choice from the Judge as to which one you can get out from under easier and cheaper - but either way, they'll have you dead to rights and you are going down. Wouldn't it be smarter not to make a mess for yourself in the first place? Just get it all cleaned up and painted under the tractor and trailer chassis to keep the rust from finding a starting place. Do NOT use "Undercoating" because it can rust underneath that for quite a while before you see it, and it's often too late. Make yourself a washdown pit in the driveway - a concrete slab with a trench drain going to a grease trap (look up Jensen Precast or there's probably someone making them in the region) then the storm or sanitary sewer. And a 1/2" pipe crossing the slab in a slot (formed by a 2X4 on end) with holes drilled in it's top, 1/4" pipe couplers welded in, and a few fan-spray washer heads screwed into them. The nozzles need to end up just below the trench a bit, to where tires won't damage them. Connect the pipe to a "Hotsy" heated pressure washer cranked up to 11. You do NOT want high powered jets that will work it's way into electronic connections and mess things up, you want a fan spray of near-boiling water mist that will melt any packed snow and salt slush and flush the salt and dirt off everything. Turn the system on and let it warm up. Then drive slowly over the washer bay and hose the salt and crap off the chassis of the tractor and trailer - and while it's hot and running take all your other cars and pickups over it too. The oils and greases will stop in the grease trap (or at least that's the theory...) and the heavy dirt will settle to the bottom. The rest will be dealt with by the sewer plant - or send it to the storm drains or the creek if they'll let you. Either way, you'll need to talk to the Wastewater Department of the city to get a Car Wash permit and see how they want the waste water dealt with.. If you can get Reclaimed Water from the sewer plant, it'll be worth it to water the bushes and run the Wash Pit. No sense using fresh potable water at triple the price if you can get Reclaimed. -- Bruce -- Undercoating oil is a jelled vegetable oil based product - often coloured for identification - and VERY effective. Often also contains lanolin - which helps set it up, like a wax. Works AT LEAST as well as hydraulic oil - and is not considered a polutant as it is totally biodegradeable. Seaps into joints to provide hidden rust from starting. On cars and trucks don't spray it on engine or powertrain components. Then it's not hard to tell it is NOT an oil leak |
#44
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Keeping a trailer frame from rusting
"Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable)"
wrote in message ... Just get it all cleaned up and painted under the tractor and trailer chassis to keep the rust from finding a starting place. Do NOT use "Undercoating" because it can rust underneath that for quite a while before you see it, and it's often too late. ... -- Bruce -- The undercoating I sprayed on the wheelbarrows that didn't do that (so far) is TMP Rubber Soundproofing Undercoat from Taylor Made Products. The wheelbarrows see only rainwater and condensation, not road salt. There may have been a residue of LPS-3 in the surface rust before I sprayed the undercoating. jsw |
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