I guess my 93 F350 has two fuse panels. the manual refers to a power
distribution box in addition to the fuse panel.

OK, where the hell is it? I hooked up my 24,000 lb. trailer and lost
all the rear lights and brake controller

Karl

On 2012-04-16, Karl Townsend wrote:
I guess my 93 F350 has two fuse panels. the manual refers to a power
distribution box in addition to the fuse panel.

OK, where the hell is it? I hooked up my 24,000 lb. trailer and lost
all the rear lights and brake controller

I thought that you are talking about the box in the trailer, am I
missing anything?

i

In article ,
Karl Townsend wrote:

I guess my 93 F350 has two fuse panels. the manual refers to a power
distribution box in addition to the fuse panel.

OK, where the hell is it? I hooked up my 24,000 lb. trailer and lost
all the rear lights and brake controller

Karl

Under the hood, in front of the driver, assuming it's similar to a '95
F150, which is not a bad bet. Or RTFM.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by
Please don't feed the trolls. Killfile and ignore them so they will go away.

Karl Townsend wrote:

I guess my 93 F350 has two fuse panels. the manual refers to a power
distribution box in addition to the fuse panel.

OK, where the hell is it? I hooked up my 24,000 lb. trailer and lost
all the rear lights and brake controller

Karl

I don't know on a '93, but on a '09 there is the underhood fuse box
(BJB) near the brake MC and the junction box (SJB) in the cab in the
passenger side footwell behind a trim panel.

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
...
I guess my 93 F350 has two fuse panels. the manual refers to a power
distribution box in addition to the fuse panel.

OK, where the hell is it? I hooked up my 24,000 lb. trailer and lost
all the rear lights and brake controller

Karl

It's a short ways aft of the battery on my 91 Ranger. The computer
power relay is hidden under it.

jsw

Karl Townsend wrote:
I guess my 93 F350 has two fuse panels. the manual refers to a power
distribution box in addition to the fuse panel.

OK, where the hell is it? I hooked up my 24,000 lb. trailer and lost
all the rear lights and brake controller

Karl


Look for Fuse D in the underhood box. Plus check the trailer relay
itself, it will also be in that box.

--
Steve W.

On Mon, 16 Apr 2012 12:23:26 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

I guess my 93 F350 has two fuse panels. the manual refers to a power
distribution box in addition to the fuse panel.

OK, where the hell is it? I hooked up my 24,000 lb. trailer and lost
all the rear lights and brake controller

Karl

Follow up. I can't find anything like this. Got sick of following
wires two different days. Even had my better half look.

Top it off, it fixed itself. I really don't like that, cause it will
just break again. And probably when I have a huge load on the trailer.

OTOH, don't know how to fix something that's not broke.

Karl

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 16 Apr 2012 12:23:26 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

I guess my 93 F350 has two fuse panels. the manual refers to a power
distribution box in addition to the fuse panel.

OK, where the hell is it? I hooked up my 24,000 lb. trailer and lost
all the rear lights and brake controller

Karl

Follow up. I can't find anything like this. Got sick of following
wires two different days. Even had my better half look.


Karl

http://recommendations.ebay.com/92-9...d=160570686172

jsw

On Tue, 17 Apr 2012 13:36:50 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:


"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 16 Apr 2012 12:23:26 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

I guess my 93 F350 has two fuse panels. the manual refers to a power
distribution box in addition to the fuse panel.

OK, where the hell is it? I hooked up my 24,000 lb. trailer and lost
all the rear lights and brake controller

Karl

Follow up. I can't find anything like this. Got sick of following
wires two different days. Even had my better half look.


Karl

http://recommendations.ebay.com/92-9...d=160570686172

jsw


that's a clue, I'll look AGAIN.

damn manual talks about it at length, but they assume its easy to
find.

IIRC (got rid of that truck a few years ago) should be in front of the
master cylinder. Probably too dirty to read the text on it.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by
Please don't feed the trolls. Killfile and ignore them so they will go away.

In NYS, we have a highway dept that puts a lot of salt on the roads. Safer,
but the cars rot out. Any time something mysterious goes wrong, it's usually
a bad ground.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
...

Top it off, it fixed itself. I really don't like that, cause it will
just break again. And probably when I have a huge load on the trailer.

OTOH, don't know how to fix something that's not broke.

Karl

On Tue, 17 Apr 2012 14:35:20 -0400, Ecnerwal
wrote:


IIRC (got rid of that truck a few years ago) should be in front of the
master cylinder. Probably too dirty to read the text on it.

I found it. Yep right behind the air cleaner box. Don't know how I
owned it 18 years without the need to look for it.

of course, nothing wrong in there. Only thing I can do is get familiar
for the next failure. Can't think of a problem I hate more than an
intermittant electrical failure.

Karl

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
In NYS, we have a highway dept that puts a lot of salt on the roads.
Safer,
but the cars rot out. Any time something mysterious goes wrong, it's
usually
a bad ground.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
...

Top it off, it fixed itself. I really don't like that, cause it will
just break again. And probably when I have a huge load on the
trailer.

OTOH, don't know how to fix something that's not broke.

Karl

The military's Preventative Maintenance procedures help a lot, as long
as you don't break it while taking it apart. I've cleaned and
Ox-Gard'ed almost every connector and ground on my truck.

jsw

On Tue, 17 Apr 2012 18:18:00 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

In NYS, we have a highway dept that puts a lot of salt on the roads. Safer,
but the cars rot out. Any time something mysterious goes wrong, it's usually
a bad ground.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org

Na, they just put a little on in NY. They really hammer it here in MN.
the truck does have some pretty serious rust issues.

I do need to remove the dump box, sandblast, weld and re-paint. Looks
like new wiring and carry a ground on the list too.

I gues I'm lucky. I own enough equipment that i always have something
to work on.

karl

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 17 Apr 2012 14:35:20 -0400, Ecnerwal
wrote:


IIRC (got rid of that truck a few years ago) should be in front of
the
master cylinder. Probably too dirty to read the text on it.

I found it. Yep right behind the air cleaner box. Don't know how I
owned it 18 years without the need to look for it.

of course, nothing wrong in there. Only thing I can do is get
familiar
for the next failure. Can't think of a problem I hate more than an
intermittant electrical failure.

Karl

If I didn't have the full 91 Ford Ranger shop manual set I could have
traced the wiring from the Haynes manual, which has copies of the same
drawings.

On mine the connectors disassemble by removing the colored insert
plugs, and Autozone sells a small kit of replacement Ford connector
pins. Write down the color coding, the factory manual doesn't give the
pinout for all connectors.

jsw

On Tue, 17 Apr 2012 18:42:44 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:


"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
. ..
In NYS, we have a highway dept that puts a lot of salt on the roads.
Safer,
but the cars rot out. Any time something mysterious goes wrong, it's
usually
a bad ground.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
...

Top it off, it fixed itself. I really don't like that, cause it will
just break again. And probably when I have a huge load on the
trailer.

OTOH, don't know how to fix something that's not broke.

Karl

The military's Preventative Maintenance procedures help a lot, as long
as you don't break it while taking it apart. I've cleaned and
Ox-Gard'ed almost every connector and ground on my truck.

jsw

Two cases come to mind:
- '83 "K" car with electric windows and locks. Master control panel on
the driver's door arm rest, wires routed everywhere by a cable across
the floor pan under the insulation mat under the floor mat under the
feet of the driver. Now where do you suppose it would be most likely
to find melted salted snow in a vehicle driven under winter
conditions? All of the branches were tee'd off in this area with
connections made by spot welding, granted, these conections were
protected by being covered with a fold of fabric "friction" insulating
tape. Each fold of tape contained a greenish powdery deposit when
exammined.

- '90 Lumina APV with composite body. things like horns, wipers and
ignition stared to fail after ~10 years. Solution? - lots of copper
braid + ring lugs + sheet metal screws/pop rivets bonding failed items
to battery ground terminal.

On Tue, 17 Apr 2012 17:45:21 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

On Tue, 17 Apr 2012 18:18:00 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

In NYS, we have a highway dept that puts a lot of salt on the roads. Safer,
but the cars rot out. Any time something mysterious goes wrong, it's usually
a bad ground.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org

Na, they just put a little on in NY. They really hammer it here in MN.
the truck does have some pretty serious rust issues.

I do need to remove the dump box, sandblast, weld and re-paint. Looks
like new wiring and carry a ground on the list too.

I gues I'm lucky. I own enough equipment that i always have something
to work on.

karl
Makes life worth living, don't it!

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
...
..
I gues I'm lucky. I own enough equipment that i always have
something
to work on.

karl

You own it, or it owns you???

jsw

On 2012-04-17, Karl Townsend wrote:
On Tue, 17 Apr 2012 14:35:20 -0400, Ecnerwal
wrote:


IIRC (got rid of that truck a few years ago) should be in front of the
master cylinder. Probably too dirty to read the text on it.

I found it. Yep right behind the air cleaner box. Don't know how I
owned it 18 years without the need to look for it.

of course, nothing wrong in there. Only thing I can do is get familiar
for the next failure. Can't think of a problem I hate more than an
intermittant electrical failure.

How about a persistant electrical failure at 20,000 feet? :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...

How about a persistant electrical failure at 20,000 feet? :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

Shop cannot jack aircraft to 20,000'.

http://www.snopes.com/travel/airline/squawk.asp

jsw

I quit using Ox Gored, when I had a couple electrical contacts on
refrigerated merchandisers look like they got eaten up. I've switched to
dielectric grease. Advance Auto, in a tube near the glues and Permatex and
RTV. Seems OK, so far.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...

The military's Preventative Maintenance procedures
help a lot, as long as you don't break it while taking
it apart. I've cleaned and Ox-Gard'ed almost every
connector and ground on my truck.

jsw

On Tue, 17 Apr 2012 13:15:18 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

On Tue, 17 Apr 2012 13:36:50 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:


"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
. ..
On Mon, 16 Apr 2012 12:23:26 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

I guess my 93 F350 has two fuse panels. the manual refers to a power
distribution box in addition to the fuse panel.

OK, where the hell is it? I hooked up my 24,000 lb. trailer and lost
all the rear lights and brake controller

Karl

Follow up. I can't find anything like this. Got sick of following
wires two different days. Even had my better half look.


Karl

http://recommendations.ebay.com/92-9...d=160570686172

jsw


that's a clue, I'll look AGAIN.

damn manual talks about it at length, but they assume its easy to
find.
It is, the second time!!

On Tue, 17 Apr 2012 17:34:07 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

On Tue, 17 Apr 2012 14:35:20 -0400, Ecnerwal
wrote:


IIRC (got rid of that truck a few years ago) should be in front of the
master cylinder. Probably too dirty to read the text on it.

I found it. Yep right behind the air cleaner box. Don't know how I
owned it 18 years without the need to look for it.

of course, nothing wrong in there. Only thing I can do is get familiar
for the next failure. Can't think of a problem I hate more than an
intermittant electrical failure.

Karl
Was it raining?
If you have ANY windsheild leak on those trucks the electrics go
crazy. Friend's truck (a 150, not a 350) would turn the lights on,
blow the horn, start the wipers, or have the wipers quit - all kind's
of strange stuff - and it ALL went away 3 months ago or so when he
replaced the windshield - - - - .

On Tue, 17 Apr 2012 12:24:17 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

On Mon, 16 Apr 2012 12:23:26 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

I guess my 93 F350 has two fuse panels. the manual refers to a power
distribution box in addition to the fuse panel.

OK, where the hell is it? I hooked up my 24,000 lb. trailer and lost
all the rear lights and brake controller

Karl

Follow up. I can't find anything like this. Got sick of following
wires two different days. Even had my better half look.

Top it off, it fixed itself. I really don't like that, cause it will
just break again. And probably when I have a huge load on the trailer.

OTOH, don't know how to fix something that's not broke.

From lots of experience in this field, Karl, I'd be willing to bet it
was the ground which had been lost, not power. Look for a broken wire
inside the insulation or corroded ground connection.

Some people attempt to use the trailer hitch itself as the ground, and
they're the ones who have intermittent problems. The rest of us have
to troubleshoot their problems when we inherit the equipment. g

--
You can either hold yourself up to the unrealistic standards of others,
or ignore them and concentrate on being happy with yourself as you are.
-- Jeph Jacques

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
I quit using Ox Gored, when I had a couple electrical contacts on
refrigerated merchandisers look like they got eaten up. I've
switched to
dielectric grease. Advance Auto, in a tube near the glues and
Permatex and
RTV. Seems OK, so far.

Christopher A. Young

My only long-term experience with Ox-Gard has been on the TV antenna,
where it keeps the signal strong and aluminum hardware clean for
several years.

Usually I put dielectric grease or LPS-3 on car connectors, but the
Ranger had corrosion I couldn't completely scrub out so I hoped the
zinc particles would break through it. I'm retired and don't have to
drive through salted slush any more.

LPS-3 is about as good as anything else I've tried on battery
terminals.

When I bought the truck Ford sold a special hi-temp grease for disk
brake caliper sliding surfaces. They later discontinued it and
recommended silicone dielectric grease instead.

jsw

Stormin Mormon wrote:

I quit using Ox Gored, when I had a couple electrical contacts on
refrigerated merchandisers look like they got eaten up. I've switched to
dielectric grease. Advance Auto, in a tube near the glues and Permatex and
RTV. Seems OK, so far.


Ox-guard is supposed to be for aluminum wiring. If used on copper wiring
I could certainly see it having issues.

"Pete C." wrote in message
. com...

Stormin Mormon wrote:

I quit using Ox Gored, when I had a couple electrical contacts on
refrigerated merchandisers look like they got eaten up. I've
switched to
dielectric grease. Advance Auto, in a tube near the glues and
Permatex and
RTV. Seems OK, so far.


Ox-guard is supposed to be for aluminum wiring. If used on copper
wiring
I could certainly see it having issues.

http://www.olypen.com/craigh/oxgard.htm

I brushed a thin film of it onto the male pins with a pipe cleaner.

jsw

"Pete C." wrote in message
. com...

Stormin Mormon wrote:

I quit using Ox Gored, when I had a couple electrical contacts on
refrigerated merchandisers look like they got eaten up. I've
switched to
dielectric grease. Advance Auto, in a tube near the glues and
Permatex and
RTV. Seems OK, so far.


Ox-guard is supposed to be for aluminum wiring. If used on copper
wiring
I could certainly see it having issues.

This reviewer/blogger(?) suggests Kopr-Shield for indoor copper and
brass connectors:
http://www.epinions.com/review/Ox_Ga...252942468?sb=1

jsw

On 4/19/2012 5:53 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Pete wrote in message
. com...

Stormin Mormon wrote:

I quit using Ox Gored, when I had a couple electrical contacts on
refrigerated merchandisers look like they got eaten up. I've
switched to dielectric grease. ...

Ox-guard is supposed to be for aluminum wiring. If used on copper
wiring I could certainly see it having issues.
....

Why? It's listed for Cu-Al as well as Al-Al; what would be any
different w/ Cu-Cu wire connection w/ it in contact w/ that Cu vis-a-vis
Cu-Al and it in contact w/ _that_ Cu?

I don't see it (Ox-Gard, that is) as likely being the real culprit here.
One generally doesn't need an anti-oxidant (really just a protective
water/air displacement from the surface) on Cu is the reason it's not
recommended for the purpose, not that there's an issue using it.

On automotive and the like the biggest problem is the preponderance of
tiny multiple connections and that it is conductive so that getting any
in the wrong place is a definite no-no. You definitely don't want it in
a taillight socket, say. That's why there's dielectric grease...

--

dpb wrote:

On 4/19/2012 5:53 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Pete wrote in message
. com...

Stormin Mormon wrote:

I quit using Ox Gored, when I had a couple electrical contacts on
refrigerated merchandisers look like they got eaten up. I've
switched to dielectric grease. ...

Ox-guard is supposed to be for aluminum wiring. If used on copper
wiring I could certainly see it having issues.
...

Why? It's listed for Cu-Al as well as Al-Al; what would be any
different w/ Cu-Cu wire connection w/ it in contact w/ that Cu vis-a-vis
Cu-Al and it in contact w/ _that_ Cu?

I don't see it (Ox-Gard, that is) as likely being the real culprit here.
One generally doesn't need an anti-oxidant (really just a protective
water/air displacement from the surface) on Cu is the reason it's not
recommended for the purpose, not that there's an issue using it.

On automotive and the like the biggest problem is the preponderance of
tiny multiple connections and that it is conductive so that getting any
in the wrong place is a definite no-no. You definitely don't want it in
a taillight socket, say. That's why there's dielectric grease...

--

Perhaps I haven't read the details enough since I've only used it on
AL-AL connections, but I was under the impression it was more chemically
active, kind of like a flux, to clean off the aluminum oxide.

"dpb" wrote in message
...
On 4/19/2012 5:53 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote [I 3 Ox-Gard]

On automotive and the like the biggest problem is the preponderance
of tiny multiple connections and that it is conductive so that
getting any in the wrong place is a definite no-no. You definitely
don't want it in a taillight socket, say. That's why there's
dielectric grease...


The connector pins are plated with tin and maybe lead, so the contact
isn't copper to copper.

A glob of Ox-Gard reads open on the 2 Megohm scale. I don't have a
functioning Megger or insulation tester to measure its high voltage
leakage or breakdown voltage. Maybe I will in two weeks:
http://www.near-fest.com/

My guess is that the dispersion of zinc dust in grease isn't
conductive until compressed in a joint. Nevertheless I brushed on only
a tiny amount, carefully, and wiped the connector faces. I had used
silicone on the Mass Air Flow sensor until confirming that its output
is an amplified low impedance voltage instead of the bridge wires.

jsw

On 4/19/2012 11:22 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
wrote in message
...
On 4/19/2012 5:53 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote [I3 Ox-Gard]

On automotive and the like the biggest problem is the preponderance
of tiny multiple connections and that it is conductive so that
getting any in the wrong place is a definite no-no. You definitely
don't want it in a taillight socket, say. That's why there's
dielectric grease...


The connector pins are plated with tin and maybe lead, so the contact
isn't copper to copper.

A glob of Ox-Gard reads open on the 2 Megohm scale. I don't have a
functioning Megger or insulation tester to measure its high voltage
leakage or breakdown voltage. Maybe I will in two weeks:
http://www.near-fest.com/

My guess is that the dispersion of zinc dust in grease isn't
conductive until compressed in a joint. Nevertheless I brushed on only
a tiny amount, carefully, and wiped the connector faces. I had used
silicone on the Mass Air Flow sensor until confirming that its output
is an amplified low impedance voltage instead of the bridge wires.

Interesting; I've not used it but a different anti-ox product for Al
wiring; was thinking of conventional wiring in the Cu-Cu even though the
app was on automotive or similar-style connections so mixed metaphors
there, so to speak.

It's interesting as G-B promote the metallic conductivity as a feature
and the abrasive nature to work through the oxide layer as the design
feature. But, there is no available technical data backing up the
claims I could find on the web site at least in a very quick look-see.

I still kinda' doubt it's the problem w/ the other connections, though,
even w/ Cu altho guess anything's possible given the right
circumstances/materials for galvanic action or similar processes.

--

On 4/19/2012 10:45 AM, Pete C. wrote:
....

Perhaps I haven't read the details enough since I've only used it on
AL-AL connections, but I was under the impression it was more chemically
active, kind of like a flux, to clean off the aluminum oxide.

The claim I've seen is it's abrasive so mechanically scrubs through the
oxide layer to expose (then protect from air to minimize re-oxidation)
fresh metal and then the Zn particles are supposed to be aiding in
conductivity, too.

But, there's little _real_ technical data that I could find, granted...

--

Gunner Asch wrote:

One of the best things one can buy for wire tracing..is a "toner"

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cable-Tracke...-/251041993559

You simply remove ALL the lightbulbs in your trailer, and hook ONE lead
of the toner to a single wire and then holding your Tracer near each
wire...listen for the tone over the speaker on the Tracer. All the way
back to the trailer connector.

You will find the line that feeds the "sidelights", left and right turn,
stop lights etc etc very quickly. If the tone is heard at the trailer
connector..and the next side light and the next..but nothing on the last
one..there is a break between the dead one and the last known good one.

Etc etc. They are invaluable for checking house wiring, machine wireing
etc etc.


Golite batteries? That sounds like the laxative they use for a
colonoscopy ;-)


--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.

Golite batteries? That sounds like the laxative they use for a
colonoscopy ;-)

Just had mine Friday. what fun .NOT.

Karl

On Sat, 21 Apr 2012 19:25:14 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sat, 21 Apr 2012 16:46:27 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Gunner Asch wrote:

One of the best things one can buy for wire tracing..is a "toner"

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cable-Tracke...-/251041993559

You simply remove ALL the lightbulbs in your trailer, and hook ONE lead
of the toner to a single wire and then holding your Tracer near each
wire...listen for the tone over the speaker on the Tracer. All the way
back to the trailer connector.

You will find the line that feeds the "sidelights", left and right turn,
stop lights etc etc very quickly. If the tone is heard at the trailer
connector..and the next side light and the next..but nothing on the last
one..there is a break between the dead one and the last known good one.

Etc etc. They are invaluable for checking house wiring, machine wireing
etc etc.


Golite batteries? That sounds like the laxative they use for a
colonoscopy ;-)

Golite batteries? You lost me there.

Gunner
Go Lightly is the name on the laxative you take before colonoscopy.
over a gallon of the stuff. You sh*t your guts out for hours. Real
fun, you should try it.

Karl

Karl Townsend wrote:

Golite batteries? That sounds like the laxative they use for a
colonoscopy ;-)

Just had mine Friday. what fun .NOT.

Karl



I was scheduled for one a couple months ago, but the VA requires you
to have someone with you, to drive you home, so I had to cancel. I had
one about five years ago. The laxatives were rough, but they put me
under for the procedure.


--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.

Gunner Asch wrote:

Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Golite batteries? That sounds like the laxative they use for a
colonoscopy ;-)

Golite batteries? You lost me there.


Like Karl said, it reminds you of the name of the laxative used to
prep you. I have the dry powder in the gallon jug from when I had to
cancel my last colonoscopy, if you'd like to try it. I can 'Guarantee'
that you'll spend most of 24 hours squatting in the bathroom and that
you'll never feel more empty in your life. Then comes the camera! ;-)
--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.

Michael A. Terrell expressed precisely :
Karl Townsend wrote:

Golite batteries? That sounds like the laxative they use for a
colonoscopy ;-)

Just had mine Friday. what fun .NOT.

Karl



I was scheduled for one a couple months ago, but the VA requires you
to have someone with you, to drive you home, so I had to cancel. I had
one about five years ago. The laxatives were rough, but they put me
under for the procedure.

If you are over 70 with qualifying service (war Zone) then the DVA in
Australia will provide a Taxi to and from a simple doctors appointment.
I have one booked for 1:30 today.
Oh and pay ALL your medical expenses.

--
John G

On Tue, 17 Apr 2012 21:36:23 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...

How about a persistant electrical failure at 20,000 feet? :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

Shop cannot jack aircraft to 20,000'.

http://www.snopes.com/travel/airline/squawk.asp

jsw

Beat me to it...

But seriously, fuses can go intermittent, especially ATO and ATM - the
thin element fractures where it meets the thicker end pin, and unless
you look REAL close you won't see the little black line where it
shorts across and then goes open across.

If nothing else, isolate the fuse on that circuit, and change it on
General Principles with a known new American fuse (this is NOT the
place to use that Harbor Freight fuse assortment) , and the gremlin
should go away.

-- Bruce --