I have this scrubber

http://www.nss.com/prod_autoscrubber...er_3330_db.php

and I am wondering if it is suitable for cleaning concrete floors, or
should I just sell it.

Thanks

i

On Tue, 08 Nov 2011 21:44:12 -0600, Ignoramus28358
wrote:

I have this scrubber

http://www.nss.com/prod_autoscrubber...er_3330_db.php

and I am wondering if it is suitable for cleaning concrete floors, or
should I just sell it.

Call and ask the morons who produce it and don't specify what it
cleans anywhere on their website.

P.S: Man, that thing is LOUD!

--
A mind, like a home, is furnished by its owner, so if
one's life is cold and bare he can blame none but himself.
-- Louis L'Amour

On Nov 8, 10:44*pm, Ignoramus28358 ignoramus28...@NOSPAM.
28358.invalid wrote:
I have this scrubber

*http://www.nss.com/prod_autoscrubber...er_3330_db.php

and I am wondering if it is suitable for cleaning concrete floors, or
should I just sell it.

Thanks

i

I'm betting it can, but they're going to try to sell you some
expensive brushes.

On Tue, 08 Nov 2011 21:44:12 -0600, Ignoramus28358
wrote:

I have this scrubber

http://www.nss.com/prod_autoscrubber...er_3330_db.php

and I am wondering if it is suitable for cleaning concrete floors, or
should I just sell it.

Thanks

i

that looks like a made in China imitation of my Tennant floor
scrubber. The tennant unit is fantastic for this job.

I'm a bit biased, my son makes them.

Karl

On Tue, 08 Nov 2011 21:44:12 -0600, Ignoramus28358
wrote:

I have this scrubber

http://www.nss.com/prod_autoscrubber...er_3330_db.php

and I am wondering if it is suitable for cleaning concrete floors, or
should I just sell it.

Looks like it will, if it's nicely finished concrete - you'll chew up
the rubber squeegee blade pretty fast if there are a lot of rough
potholes and old anchor bolts sticking up. And you can't vacuum up
the water if it drains into an expansion crack.

Give the floor a once-over with a floor finishing grinder, and they
have self-leveling epoxy fillers that will fix the divots.

And you do want to seal the concrete first, so the cleaning water
doesn't sink in. They make several styles of sealant for that, or you
can use epoxy floor paint.

-- Bruce --

"rangerssuck" wrote in message
...
On Nov 8, 10:44 pm, Ignoramus28358 ignoramus28...@NOSPAM.
28358.invalid wrote:
I have this scrubber

http://www.nss.com/prod_autoscrubber...er_3330_db.php

and I am wondering if it is suitable for cleaning concrete floors, or
should I just sell it.

Thanks

i

I'm betting it can, but they're going to try to sell you some
expensive brushes.
__________________________________________

You can't use "expensive" and "brushes" in the same sentence!

On Wed, 09 Nov 2011 02:20:08 -0600, Karl Townsend
wrote:


that looks like a made in China imitation of my Tennant floor
scrubber. The tennant unit is fantastic for this job.

NSS brand has been around since at least the late 70s. I used an NSS water vac
at the Vo-tech I attended (and worked briefly as a janitor) in 1977. And yes
Larry, it was incredibly loud!
--
William

On 11/8/2011 7:44 PM, Ignoramus28358 wrote:
I have this scrubber

http://www.nss.com/prod_autoscrubber...er_3330_db.php

and I am wondering if it is suitable for cleaning concrete floors, or
should I just sell it.

Thanks

i
Depends! Might be good if your floor has a finish of epoxy or something
similar. If just plain surface concrete, then a better method is what we
use.

Oiled sand is spread over a small portion of the floor and then swept up
with a large Costco type broom. Then the next portion is done. Sand and
trash is put in a can and when that is full, it goes in the dumpster.
Picks up all the dust and leaves a nice clean surface. Our janitor does
this once a week to our 6,000 sq.ft. less equipment, work stations, etc.

Paul

On Nov 9, 11:21*am, "Tom Gardner" wrote:
"rangerssuck" wrote in message

...
On Nov 8, 10:44 pm, Ignoramus28358 ignoramus28...@NOSPAM.

28358.invalid wrote:
I have this scrubber

http://www.nss.com/prod_autoscrubber...er_3330_db.php

and I am wondering if it is suitable for cleaning concrete floors, or
should I just sell it.

Thanks

i

I'm betting it can, but they're going to try to sell you some
expensive brushes.
__________________________________________

You can't use "expensive" and "brushes" in the same sentence!

Well, I guess it all depends on who's setting the price. And remember,
for Iggy, anything above a buck-and-a-half is expensive :-)

On Nov 9, 11:23*am, William Bagwell
wrote:

[...]
And yes Larry, it was incredibly loud!

I believe Larry was referring to the model number, 3330 DB, which is
really, really, loud indeed.

On Wed, 9 Nov 2011 09:50:42 -0800 (PST), rangerssuck
wrote:

And yes Larry, it was incredibly loud!

I believe Larry was referring to the model number, 3330 DB, which is
really, really, loud indeed.

Ah, I missed that little joke. But the one and only NSS vacuum happened to be
much louder than any other vacuum I have ever encountered before or since.
--
William

"Ignoramus28358" wrote in message
...
I have this scrubber

http://www.nss.com/prod_autoscrubber...er_3330_db.php

and I am wondering if it is suitable for cleaning concrete floors, or
should I just sell it.

Thanks

i

You will go through pads pretty quickly and if there's a lot of dirt it will
clog it up. NSS is a first rate brand. Autoscrubbers can be expensive to
maintain, diamond ground concrete, terrazzo or vinyl is what they are really
meant for.

On Wed, 09 Nov 2011 11:23:34 -0500, William Bagwell
wrote:

On Wed, 09 Nov 2011 02:20:08 -0600, Karl Townsend
wrote:


that looks like a made in China imitation of my Tennant floor
scrubber. The tennant unit is fantastic for this job.

NSS brand has been around since at least the late 70s. I used an NSS water vac
at the Vo-tech I attended (and worked briefly as a janitor) in 1977. And yes
Larry, it was incredibly loud!

In case it was missed, the model number 3300 DB looked like an audio
sound level measurement. (dB)

--
Resolve to be thyself: and know, that he who finds himself, loses his misery.
-- Matthew Arnold

On 2011-11-09, Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable) wrote:
On Tue, 08 Nov 2011 21:44:12 -0600, Ignoramus28358
wrote:

I have this scrubber

http://www.nss.com/prod_autoscrubber...er_3330_db.php

and I am wondering if it is suitable for cleaning concrete floors, or
should I just sell it.

Looks like it will, if it's nicely finished concrete - you'll chew up
the rubber squeegee blade pretty fast if there are a lot of rough
potholes and old anchor bolts sticking up. And you can't vacuum up
the water if it drains into an expansion crack.

Give the floor a once-over with a floor finishing grinder, and they
have self-leveling epoxy fillers that will fix the divots.

And you do want to seal the concrete first, so the cleaning water
doesn't sink in. They make several styles of sealant for that, or you
can use epoxy floor paint.

Bruce, I will use this warehouse for selling surplus equipment, not as
a shopping center. I think that it is too expensive to epoxy the
floor. I just wanted to keep it free of debris, excessive oil stains
etc.

i

On 2011-11-09, Paul Drahn wrote:
On 11/8/2011 7:44 PM, Ignoramus28358 wrote:
I have this scrubber

http://www.nss.com/prod_autoscrubber...er_3330_db.php

and I am wondering if it is suitable for cleaning concrete floors, or
should I just sell it.

Thanks

i
Depends! Might be good if your floor has a finish of epoxy or something
similar. If just plain surface concrete, then a better method is what we
use.

Oiled sand is spread over a small portion of the floor and then swept up
with a large Costco type broom. Then the next portion is done. Sand and
trash is put in a can and when that is full, it goes in the dumpster.
Picks up all the dust and leaves a nice clean surface. Our janitor does
this once a week to our 6,000 sq.ft. less equipment, work stations, etc.

Paul

Paul, I am thinking, I can always sell this Wrangler wet unit at a
small profit. Wuld you say that I would be better served by a big
vacuum cleaner, without the wet part?

On Wed, 09 Nov 2011 19:32:23 -0600, Ignoramus19683
wrote:

On 2011-11-09, Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable) wrote:
On Tue, 08 Nov 2011 21:44:12 -0600, Ignoramus28358
wrote:

I have this scrubber

http://www.nss.com/prod_autoscrubber...er_3330_db.php

and I am wondering if it is suitable for cleaning concrete floors, or
should I just sell it.

Looks like it will, if it's nicely finished concrete - you'll chew up
the rubber squeegee blade pretty fast if there are a lot of rough
potholes and old anchor bolts sticking up. And you can't vacuum up
the water if it drains into an expansion crack.

Give the floor a once-over with a floor finishing grinder, and they
have self-leveling epoxy fillers that will fix the divots.

And you do want to seal the concrete first, so the cleaning water
doesn't sink in. They make several styles of sealant for that, or you
can use epoxy floor paint.

Bruce, I will use this warehouse for selling surplus equipment, not as
a shopping center. I think that it is too expensive to epoxy the
floor. I just wanted to keep it free of debris, excessive oil stains
etc.

A clear sealer or inexpensive floor paint will work fine for you, but
clean it well first. That'll be a challenge, but the scrubber will
save your butt. Clean it, dry it well for however long your sealer of
choice recommends, and then seal it.

I used white latex floor paint on my shop and love it. The floor had
already been sealed with a shiny film sealer, so the paint does scrape
off fairly easily, compared to epoxy, but it also covers again easily
and cheaply. The white color made the shop twice as bright. Pure white
walls, floor, and ceiling are great. The tools on shelves, lumber on
one wall, and cabinets on another break up the pure white feeling, but
the white really reflects light well. I recommend it on your ceiling
and beams there, too. A few upward mounted fluorescent fixtured would
add lots of ambient light for a very low cost.

--
Resolve to be thyself: and know, that he who finds himself, loses his misery.
-- Matthew Arnold

i
Depends! Might be good if your floor has a finish of epoxy or something
similar. If just plain surface concrete, then a better method is what we
use.

Oiled sand is spread over a small portion of the floor and then swept up
with a large Costco type broom. Then the next portion is done. Sand and
trash is put in a can and when that is full, it goes in the dumpster.
Picks up all the dust and leaves a nice clean surface. Our janitor does
this once a week to our 6,000 sq.ft. less equipment, work stations, etc.

Paul

Paul, I am thinking, I can always sell this Wrangler wet unit at a
small profit. Wuld you say that I would be better served by a big
vacuum cleaner, without the wet part?

Any of the methods are pretty low cost to just try them out. A vacuum
always redestributes the finer dust that gets through the filters. So,
try a reasonable priced shop vacuum for a week or so. Even try wet
moping that will really get the dirt up, but is a lot of work.

We get the oiled sand from Granger. An 80 lb box is not that expensive
and lasts several months.

just don't give your wife the job of testing!

Paul

Tom Gardner wrote:

(...)

You can't use "expensive" and "brushes" in the same sentence!

Why not? We claim much sillier things than that:

'Management Ethics'
'Patient Confidentiality'
'Budget Surplus'


--Winston

Larry Jaques wrote:

In case it was missed, the model number 3300 DB looked like an audio
sound level measurement. (dB)


Not to anyone who knows what a dB is. Do the math and see what power
level 3300 dB is.


--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.

On 2011-11-10, Paul Drahn wrote:
i
Depends! Might be good if your floor has a finish of epoxy or something
similar. If just plain surface concrete, then a better method is what we
use.

Oiled sand is spread over a small portion of the floor and then swept up
with a large Costco type broom. Then the next portion is done. Sand and
trash is put in a can and when that is full, it goes in the dumpster.
Picks up all the dust and leaves a nice clean surface. Our janitor does
this once a week to our 6,000 sq.ft. less equipment, work stations, etc.

Paul

Paul, I am thinking, I can always sell this Wrangler wet unit at a
small profit. Wuld you say that I would be better served by a big
vacuum cleaner, without the wet part?

Any of the methods are pretty low cost to just try them out. A vacuum
always redestributes the finer dust that gets through the filters. So,
try a reasonable priced shop vacuum for a week or so. Even try wet
moping that will really get the dirt up, but is a lot of work.

We get the oiled sand from Granger. An 80 lb box is not that expensive
and lasts several months.

just don't give your wife the job of testing!

At first, I thought that you were joking when you mentioned oiled sand.

You are talking about this, right?

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/COT...Compound-3H401

It says "for painted surfaces and oil resistant floors". It would
seem that it would not work as well for unfinished concrete?

i

On 2011-11-10, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 09 Nov 2011 19:32:23 -0600, Ignoramus19683
wrote:

On 2011-11-09, Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable) wrote:
On Tue, 08 Nov 2011 21:44:12 -0600, Ignoramus28358
wrote:

I have this scrubber

http://www.nss.com/prod_autoscrubber...er_3330_db.php

and I am wondering if it is suitable for cleaning concrete floors, or
should I just sell it.

Looks like it will, if it's nicely finished concrete - you'll chew up
the rubber squeegee blade pretty fast if there are a lot of rough
potholes and old anchor bolts sticking up. And you can't vacuum up
the water if it drains into an expansion crack.

Give the floor a once-over with a floor finishing grinder, and they
have self-leveling epoxy fillers that will fix the divots.

And you do want to seal the concrete first, so the cleaning water
doesn't sink in. They make several styles of sealant for that, or you
can use epoxy floor paint.

Bruce, I will use this warehouse for selling surplus equipment, not as
a shopping center. I think that it is too expensive to epoxy the
floor. I just wanted to keep it free of debris, excessive oil stains
etc.

A clear sealer or inexpensive floor paint will work fine for you, but
clean it well first. That'll be a challenge, but the scrubber will
save your butt. Clean it, dry it well for however long your sealer of
choice recommends, and then seal it.

I used white latex floor paint on my shop and love it. The floor had
already been sealed with a shiny film sealer, so the paint does scrape
off fairly easily, compared to epoxy, but it also covers again easily
and cheaply. The white color made the shop twice as bright. Pure white
walls, floor, and ceiling are great. The tools on shelves, lumber on
one wall, and cabinets on another break up the pure white feeling, but
the white really reflects light well. I recommend it on your ceiling
and beams there, too. A few upward mounted fluorescent fixtured would
add lots of ambient light for a very low cost.


Larry, do you have a forklift with cushion tires?

i

On Thu, 10 Nov 2011 06:24:19 -0600, Ignoramus30836
wrote:

On 2011-11-10, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 09 Nov 2011 19:32:23 -0600, Ignoramus19683
wrote:

On 2011-11-09, Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable) wrote:
On Tue, 08 Nov 2011 21:44:12 -0600, Ignoramus28358
wrote:

I have this scrubber

http://www.nss.com/prod_autoscrubber...er_3330_db.php

and I am wondering if it is suitable for cleaning concrete floors, or
should I just sell it.

Looks like it will, if it's nicely finished concrete - you'll chew up
the rubber squeegee blade pretty fast if there are a lot of rough
potholes and old anchor bolts sticking up. And you can't vacuum up
the water if it drains into an expansion crack.

Give the floor a once-over with a floor finishing grinder, and they
have self-leveling epoxy fillers that will fix the divots.

And you do want to seal the concrete first, so the cleaning water
doesn't sink in. They make several styles of sealant for that, or you
can use epoxy floor paint.

Bruce, I will use this warehouse for selling surplus equipment, not as
a shopping center. I think that it is too expensive to epoxy the
floor. I just wanted to keep it free of debris, excessive oil stains
etc.

A clear sealer or inexpensive floor paint will work fine for you, but
clean it well first. That'll be a challenge, but the scrubber will
save your butt. Clean it, dry it well for however long your sealer of
choice recommends, and then seal it.

I used white latex floor paint on my shop and love it. The floor had
already been sealed with a shiny film sealer, so the paint does scrape
off fairly easily, compared to epoxy, but it also covers again easily
and cheaply. The white color made the shop twice as bright. Pure white
walls, floor, and ceiling are great. The tools on shelves, lumber on
one wall, and cabinets on another break up the pure white feeling, but
the white really reflects light well. I recommend it on your ceiling
and beams there, too. A few upward mounted fluorescent fixtured would
add lots of ambient light for a very low cost.


Larry, do you have a forklift with cushion tires?

thud Right, sealer it is!

--
Resolve to be thyself: and know, that he who finds himself, loses his misery.
-- Matthew Arnold

On 11/10/2011 4:23 AM, Ignoramus30836 wrote:
On 2011-11-10, Paul wrote:
i
Depends! Might be good if your floor has a finish of epoxy or something
similar. If just plain surface concrete, then a better method is what we
use.

Oiled sand is spread over a small portion of the floor and then swept up
with a large Costco type broom. Then the next portion is done. Sand and
trash is put in a can and when that is full, it goes in the dumpster.
Picks up all the dust and leaves a nice clean surface. Our janitor does
this once a week to our 6,000 sq.ft. less equipment, work stations, etc.

Paul

Paul, I am thinking, I can always sell this Wrangler wet unit at a
small profit. Wuld you say that I would be better served by a big
vacuum cleaner, without the wet part?

Any of the methods are pretty low cost to just try them out. A vacuum
always redestributes the finer dust that gets through the filters. So,
try a reasonable priced shop vacuum for a week or so. Even try wet
moping that will really get the dirt up, but is a lot of work.

We get the oiled sand from Granger. An 80 lb box is not that expensive
and lasts several months.

just don't give your wife the job of testing!

At first, I thought that you were joking when you mentioned oiled sand.

You are talking about this, right?

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/COT...Compound-3H401

It says "for painted surfaces and oil resistant floors". It would
seem that it would not work as well for unfinished concrete?

i

Yup, that is the stuff. We have been using it for 11 years. Does get
lost in the cracks, but after the first time, the cracks are full!

Paul

On Thu, 10 Nov 2011 11:15:40 -0800, Paul Drahn
wrote:

On 11/10/2011 4:23 AM, Ignoramus30836 wrote:

At first, I thought that you were joking when you mentioned oiled sand.

You are talking about this, right?

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/COT...Compound-3H401

It says "for painted surfaces and oil resistant floors". It would
seem that it would not work as well for unfinished concrete?

Yup, that is the stuff. We have been using it for 11 years. Does get
lost in the cracks, but after the first time, the cracks are full!

Paul

Grainger only has the Green in little sacks, I'm sure other suppliers
have it in the bigger fiber drums and boxes. (tappa tappa tappa) ...

Yup, McMaster shows the Red (Petroleum) and Green (Wax) and a
Biodegradable Tan Soybean Oil based, in 100# and 300# drums. I'm sure
there's a big cleaning supplies house like Waxie near you.

If the floor is sealed & painted or has floor tiles, you get the Green
colored sweeping compound that is Wax based and no sand or grit, and
the Tan is good when you don't want to make more Hazmat. The Waste
Management folks can't complain about putting the Green or Tan in the
regular trash.

Like a lot of commodities, Sawdust and Sand and a little Oil are
relatively cheap - packaging (empty fiber drum, lid, liner bag) and
shipping is most of the cost. Go for the big drum once every two
years, not a small bag every two months. If it's made regionally,
sometimes you can get credit back on a good used drum return.

Unless you get a better deal on a whole pallet of bags at Will Call -
they forklift load, give them an exchange pallet if they want a
deposit, you forklift unload and stick it in the Steel Racking...

-- Bruce --

"rangerssuck" wrote in message
...
On Nov 8, 10:44 pm, Ignoramus28358 ignoramus28...@NOSPAM.
28358.invalid wrote:
I have this scrubber

http://www.nss.com/prod_autoscrubber...er_3330_db.php

and I am wondering if it is suitable for cleaning concrete floors, or
should I just sell it.

Thanks

i

I'm betting it can, but they're going to try to sell you some
expensive brushes.

They don't use brushes, they use circular 3M type greenie pads in various
levels of aggressiveness. Not particularly expensive, but they won't last
long on rough concrete.

On 2011-11-10, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:

In case it was missed, the model number 3300 DB looked like an audio
sound level measurement. (dB)


Not to anyone who knows what a dB is. Do the math and see what power
level 3300 dB is.

For almost *any* reference level for 0 dB. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Tue, 8 Nov 2011 21:38:56 -0800 (PST), rangerssuck
wrote:

On Nov 8, 10:44*pm, Ignoramus28358 ignoramus28...@NOSPAM.
28358.invalid wrote:
I have this scrubber

*http://www.nss.com/prod_autoscrubber...er_3330_db.php

and I am wondering if it is suitable for cleaning concrete floors, or
should I just sell it.

Thanks

i

I'm betting it can, but they're going to try to sell you some
expensive brushes.

Actually, they could sell you an expensive Diamond Stone Disc for a
floor buffer, and you can do your own terrazzo grinding. It's a bare
brush wheel sized for your machine (14" to 18" OD) with a dozen or so
"pucks" of diamond-embedded brass bolted on to grind the floor flat.
Lots of water, and you'll knock the high spots off the sand and gravel
in the floor in short order.

Then you rinse and hand-squeegee the floor to get the worst of the
concrete dust out the back door, and get the rest with your new NSS
scrubber.

NOW you seal-coat or paint the floor, before the oil soaks into the
newly cleaned floor.

-- Bruce --

"Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable)"
wrote in message
news
On Tue, 8 Nov 2011 21:38:56 -0800 (PST), rangerssuck
wrote:

On Nov 8, 10:44 pm, Ignoramus28358 ignoramus28...@NOSPAM.
28358.invalid wrote:
I have this scrubber

http://www.nss.com/prod_autoscrubber...er_3330_db.php

and I am wondering if it is suitable for cleaning concrete floors, or
should I just sell it.

Thanks

i

I'm betting it can, but they're going to try to sell you some
expensive brushes.

Actually, they could sell you an expensive Diamond Stone Disc for a
floor buffer, and you can do your own terrazzo grinding. It's a bare
brush wheel sized for your machine (14" to 18" OD) with a dozen or so
"pucks" of diamond-embedded brass bolted on to grind the floor flat.
Lots of water, and you'll knock the high spots off the sand and gravel
in the floor in short order.

Then you rinse and hand-squeegee the floor to get the worst of the
concrete dust out the back door, and get the rest with your new NSS
scrubber.

NOW you seal-coat or paint the floor, before the oil soaks into the
newly cleaned floor.

-- Bruce --

That works for terrazzo that's already smooth on a low speed machine, but to
do a practical job on concrete you need something like this:

http://www.terrco.com/floorgrinders/200.php

Even then you'll be using a lot of plugs and then diamond pucks. It's an
expensive process but worthwhile for a big box store like Costco.

In article ,
Ignoramus30836 wrote:

On 2011-11-10, Paul Drahn wrote:
i
Depends! Might be good if your floor has a finish of epoxy or something
similar. If just plain surface concrete, then a better method is what we
use.

Oiled sand is spread over a small portion of the floor and then swept up
with a large Costco type broom. Then the next portion is done. Sand and
trash is put in a can and when that is full, it goes in the dumpster.
Picks up all the dust and leaves a nice clean surface. Our janitor does
this once a week to our 6,000 sq.ft. less equipment, work stations, etc.

Paul

Paul, I am thinking, I can always sell this Wrangler wet unit at a
small profit. Wuld you say that I would be better served by a big
vacuum cleaner, without the wet part?

Any of the methods are pretty low cost to just try them out. A vacuum
always redestributes the finer dust that gets through the filters. So,
try a reasonable priced shop vacuum for a week or so. Even try wet
moping that will really get the dirt up, but is a lot of work.

We get the oiled sand from Granger. An 80 lb box is not that expensive
and lasts several months.

just don't give your wife the job of testing!

At first, I thought that you were joking when you mentioned oiled sand.

You are talking about this, right?

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/COT...Compound-3H401

It says "for painted surfaces and oil resistant floors". It would
seem that it would not work as well for unfinished concrete?

I think it's oiled sawdust (not sand). Unsealed concrete will get oily.

Joe Gwinn

On 11/11/2011 5:57 AM, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In articlei_2dnSk0t9zHXybTnZ2dnUVZ_uGdnZ2d@giganews. com,
wrote:

On 2011-11-10, Paul wrote:
i
Depends! Might be good if your floor has a finish of epoxy or something
similar. If just plain surface concrete, then a better method is what we
use.

Oiled sand is spread over a small portion of the floor and then swept up
with a large Costco type broom. Then the next portion is done. Sand and
trash is put in a can and when that is full, it goes in the dumpster.
Picks up all the dust and leaves a nice clean surface. Our janitor does
this once a week to our 6,000 sq.ft. less equipment, work stations, etc.

Paul

Paul, I am thinking, I can always sell this Wrangler wet unit at a
small profit. Wuld you say that I would be better served by a big
vacuum cleaner, without the wet part?

Any of the methods are pretty low cost to just try them out. A vacuum
always redestributes the finer dust that gets through the filters. So,
try a reasonable priced shop vacuum for a week or so. Even try wet
moping that will really get the dirt up, but is a lot of work.

We get the oiled sand from Granger. An 80 lb box is not that expensive
and lasts several months.

just don't give your wife the job of testing!

At first, I thought that you were joking when you mentioned oiled sand.

You are talking about this, right?

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/COT...Compound-3H401

It says "for painted surfaces and oil resistant floors". It would
seem that it would not work as well for unfinished concrete?

I think it's oiled sawdust (not sand). Unsealed concrete will get oily.

Joe Gwinn
No, Joe. It's sand. I used oiled sawdust on concrete once a week back in
1950's when I worked after school in a grocery store. Dust mopped the
rest of the week.

This is oiled sand. We are in the Central Oregon desert when there is
ALWAYS dust settling out of the air. I wanted something to pick up and
hold the dust and something that was abrasive to help keep the concrete
clean.

The concrete in both the store and my plant has/had the normal sealing
put on fresh concrete and nothing more. We need clean bare concrete to
control the ESD. All employees wear conductive foot straps on both feet,
as well as wrist strap grounded to the work area or machine. The bare
concrete is conductive enough to drain away any personally generated
static electricity.

Each material has it's place. The amount of oil on the sand is never
enough to transfer permanently to the concrete. I suppose if fresh sand
was left in a pile on the floor long enough, you would see oil, but that
doesn't happen. As soon as the sand picks up dust, it's pretty well
locked in.

Paul

In article ,
Paul Drahn wrote:

On 11/11/2011 5:57 AM, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In articlei_2dnSk0t9zHXybTnZ2dnUVZ_uGdnZ2d@giganews. com,
wrote:

On 2011-11-10, Paul wrote:
i
Depends! Might be good if your floor has a finish of epoxy or something
similar. If just plain surface concrete, then a better method is what we
use.

Oiled sand is spread over a small portion of the floor and then swept up
with a large Costco type broom. Then the next portion is done. Sand and
trash is put in a can and when that is full, it goes in the dumpster.
Picks up all the dust and leaves a nice clean surface. Our janitor does
this once a week to our 6,000 sq.ft. less equipment, work stations, etc.

Paul

Paul, I am thinking, I can always sell this Wrangler wet unit at a
small profit. Wuld you say that I would be better served by a big
vacuum cleaner, without the wet part?

Any of the methods are pretty low cost to just try them out. A vacuum
always redestributes the finer dust that gets through the filters. So,
try a reasonable priced shop vacuum for a week or so. Even try wet
moping that will really get the dirt up, but is a lot of work.

We get the oiled sand from Granger. An 80 lb box is not that expensive
and lasts several months.

just don't give your wife the job of testing!

At first, I thought that you were joking when you mentioned oiled sand.

You are talking about this, right?

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/COT...Compound-3H401

It says "for painted surfaces and oil resistant floors". It would
seem that it would not work as well for unfinished concrete?

I think it's oiled sawdust (not sand). Unsealed concrete will get oily.

Joe Gwinn
No, Joe. It's sand. I used oiled sawdust on concrete once a week back in
1950's when I worked after school in a grocery store. Dust mopped the
rest of the week.

That's the stuff I remember.


This is oiled sand. We are in the Central Oregon desert when there is
ALWAYS dust settling out of the air. I wanted something to pick up and
hold the dust and something that was abrasive to help keep the concrete
clean.

I never heard of oiled sand, but OK.

What I saw done at a nearby air base in Mass was to wash and wax the
concrete floors weekly. This depleted the local dust supply, and tended
to keep everything else clean. [The wax wouldn't make much of an
electrical insulator.]


The concrete in both the store and my plant has/had the normal sealing
put on fresh concrete and nothing more. We need clean bare concrete to
control the ESD. All employees wear conductive foot straps on both feet,
as well as wrist strap grounded to the work area or machine. The bare
concrete is conductive enough to drain away any personally generated
static electricity.

What do you make?


Each material has its place. The amount of oil on the sand is never
enough to transfer permanently to the concrete. I suppose if fresh sand
was left in a pile on the floor long enough, you would see oil, but that
doesn't happen. As soon as the sand picks up dust, it's pretty well
locked in.

Or, you grind away the surface faster than the oil can soak in?

Joe Gwinn

On Nov 11, 12:18*pm, Paul Drahn wrote:



The concrete in both the store and my plant has/had the normal sealing
put on fresh concrete and nothing more. We need clean bare concrete to
control the ESD. All employees wear conductive foot straps on both feet,
as well as wrist strap grounded to the work area or machine. The bare
concrete is conductive enough to drain away any personally generated
static electricity.


Paul

Actually you do not have to have clean bare concrete. You can buy
conductive wax.

I worked at a facility where leg stats were required and after you put
on leg stats you had to use a continuity tester to verify the leg
stats were providing continuity from one leg to the other. As I
remember after the floors were waxed, they were tested for
conductivity, and then there was a monthly check of floor conductivity
to ensure they remained conductive. There were also scheduled tests
of the earth's conductivity and of the lightning masts.

Dan

On 11/11/2011 5:51 PM, wrote:
On Nov 11, 12:18 pm, Paul wrote:



The concrete in both the store and my plant has/had the normal sealing
put on fresh concrete and nothing more. We need clean bare concrete to
control the ESD. All employees wear conductive foot straps on both feet,
as well as wrist strap grounded to the work area or machine. The bare
concrete is conductive enough to drain away any personally generated
static electricity.


Paul

Actually you do not have to have clean bare concrete. You can buy
conductive wax.

I worked at a facility where leg stats were required and after you put
on leg stats you had to use a continuity tester to verify the leg
stats were providing continuity from one leg to the other. As I
remember after the floors were waxed, they were tested for
conductivity, and then there was a monthly check of floor conductivity
to ensure they remained conductive. There were also scheduled tests
of the earth's conductivity and of the lightning masts.

Dan

Yes, each employee is required to test the foot stats each morning and
log in the results. A foot is placed on the tester and a conductive push
button switch is pressed. A light shows a good test. Guess it is a
meg-ohm meter. If I work out in the assembly area, I have to do the
same. Then each employee wears a jacket with conductive threads in it,
and then a wrist band is connected to the bench ground. All benches are
covered with conductive rubber matting.

I like the least cost method of controlling static electricity. Besides,
I don't own the building.

We primarily assemble printed circuit boards for various customers in
Oregon. One in California and one big one headquartered in Phoenix, AZ.
They have a final assembly shop about 2 miles from my plant, so, except
for engineering stuff, we work with the Redmond, OR shop.

We do complete box builds for a few customers, as well as repairs and
calibrations for them. We also build a few custom cables.

Most of the work is surface mount with some through hole components.
Most of the work, now, is using lead-free solder because the products
sometimes are exported to Europe.

Paul

On Nov 11, 10:17*pm, Paul Drahn wrote:



We primarily assemble printed circuit boards for various customers in
Oregon. One in California and one big one headquartered in Phoenix, AZ.
They have a final assembly shop about 2 miles from my plant, so, except
for engineering stuff, we work with the Redmond, OR shop.

We do complete box builds for a few customers, as well as repairs and
calibrations for them. We also build a few custom cables.

Most of the work is surface mount with some through hole components.
Most of the work, now, is using lead-free solder because the products
sometimes are exported to Europe.

Paul

We worked with explosives and propellants.

Dan

"Ignoramus28358" wrote in message
...
I have this scrubber

http://www.nss.com/prod_autoscrubber...er_3330_db.php

and I am wondering if it is suitable for cleaning concrete floors, or
should I just sell it.

Thanks

i

It will do a decent job with smooth concrete. It will not do well on rough
or uneven surfaces.
GregO