Getting some refurbishment work done at the back of my house which
is seeing a new concrete floor being poured this week (140-150mm deep
afaik).

2 questions :

Q1: Whats the typical drying time for this thats acceptable
for tiling or wooden laminate flooring

Q2: In the drying period we will still need to use the room
as a living space. whats the best plan to suppress concrete dust but not
hinder drying out - is it possible to coat it with anything ?


thanks in advance
dkh
--
dkh

Standard test to check for drying prior to applying a sealer; rubber
car mat laid on floor overnight - look for moisture under it next
morning. Should be dry or hardly any trace.

Dave

"dkh" wrote in message
...
Getting some refurbishment work done at the back of my house which
is seeing a new concrete floor being poured this week (140-150mm deep
afaik).

2 questions :

Q1: Whats the typical drying time for this thats acceptable
for tiling or wooden laminate flooring

Q2: In the drying period we will still need to use the room
as a living space. whats the best plan to suppress concrete dust but not
hinder drying out - is it possible to coat it with anything ?


Concrete ideally is kept damp for 1 month to let it cure to maximum strength
according to the professional Yankee pourers
http://www.rinker.com/florida/downloads/CIP%2011p.pdf
though it may not be practical about the home.

rusty

"Rusty" wrote in message ...
"dkh" wrote in message
...
Getting some refurbishment work done at the back of my house which
is seeing a new concrete floor being poured this week (140-150mm deep
afaik).

2 questions :

Q1: Whats the typical drying time for this thats acceptable
for tiling or wooden laminate flooring

Q2: In the drying period we will still need to use the room
as a living space. whats the best plan to suppress concrete dust but not
hinder drying out - is it possible to coat it with anything ?


Concrete ideally is kept damp for 1 month to let it cure to maximum strength
according to the professional Yankee pourers
http://www.rinker.com/florida/downloads/CIP%2011p.pdf
though it may not be practical about the home.

rusty
I've heard 1 month for every 1" of floor thickness - i.e. 4" thick
floor takes 4 months (weather has an affect of course).

In article , dkh wrote:
Getting some refurbishment work done at the back of my house which
is seeing a new concrete floor being poured this week (140-150mm deep
afaik).

2 questions :

Q1: Whats the typical drying time for this thats acceptable
for tiling or wooden laminate flooring

Laminate floor I layed on monday said 1 day per mm of concrete. So you are
looking at 5 months...


Darren

dkh wrote:

Getting some refurbishment work done at the back of my house which
is seeing a new concrete floor being poured this week (140-150mm deep
afaik).

2 questions :

Q1: Whats the typical drying time for this thats acceptable
for tiling or wooden laminate flooring

Tiling don't worry - as soon as its safe top walk on you can tile it.
Concrete amnd screed set with water as teh active reagent - its a
hydration process, and no grout you will ever use will completely stop
the floor drying out post tiling.

For laminate you do not want condensation to form underneath, so give it
4-6 weeks depending on internal temperatures and humidity.


Q2: In the drying period we will still need to use the room
as a living space. whats the best plan to suppress concrete dust but not
hinder drying out - is it possible to coat it with anything ?



Yes. Use thinned PVA anyway to kill dusting.

We lived with dusting floors for a year till I got round to levelling
and laminating - slung some expensive rugs over it. Wish I'd PVA'ed it
though.

You can paint it as well, but its not really any better for short term.
It does wear better if i year before floor laying is contemplated.


thanks in advance
dkh
--
dkh

Magician wrote:
Standard test to check for drying prior to applying a sealer; rubber
car mat laid on floor overnight - look for moisture under it next
morning. Should be dry or hardly any trace.

I did exactly that recently, no trace of moisture after 12 days. (150ish
mm floor)

--
Mark
Please replace invalid and invalid with gmx and net to reply

The Natural Philosopher wrote in
:

dkh wrote:

Getting some refurbishment work done at the back of my house which
is seeing a new concrete floor being poured this week (140-150mm deep
afaik).

2 questions :


Yes. Use thinned PVA anyway to kill dusting.

will thinned PVA not act as a seal an inhibit the drying of the concrete ?
I like the idea but would be concerned if it lengthened the drying time...

Declan

In article , dkh writes
The Natural Philosopher wrote in
:

dkh wrote:

Getting some refurbishment work done at the back of my house which
is seeing a new concrete floor being poured this week (140-150mm deep
afaik).

2 questions :


Yes. Use thinned PVA anyway to kill dusting.

will thinned PVA not act as a seal an inhibit the drying of the concrete ?
I like the idea but would be concerned if it lengthened the drying time...

Declan

Concrete does not 'dry', it sets, the way to make the most durable
concrete is to cure it underwater. The water in the concrete is needed
to ensure a complete cure and reduce the chance of cracking, early loss
of water will result in drying shrinkage cracks, the volume of the water
in the mix is needed to prevent this. Curing compounds are an essential
part of laying large slabs, small jobs can be done with polythene, wet
hessian etc., A PVA solution will work short term but for long term I
would use a combined curing/sealing compound which will also harden and
dustproof the surface, use a water based one or you will have to
evacuate the house because of the fumes. Some types of tile adhesive
will not like a barrier layer between them and the concrete so consider
this before slapping anything down obviously no a problem if you are
going laminate.
--
David

"dkh" wrote:

Getting some refurbishment work done at the back of my house which
is seeing a new concrete floor being poured this week (140-150mm deep
afaik).

2 questions :

Q1: Whats the typical drying time for this thats acceptable
for tiling or wooden laminate flooring

Just noticed this post about concrete flooring and wood floors, as I'm about
to move into a "new build" flat with concrete flooring, and would rather
have a wood floor than carpet.

The flat is on the second floor, so my guess is that the floor is precast
rather than poured concrete, but it will have been scimmed up with a top
layer.

How long would this type of floor take to dry prior to taking a wood floor?

I will be hopefully using an "acoustic" mat with slots which allow the 20mm
wood layer to be bonded with a special adhesive to the floor whilst abiding
by the strict noise restrictions imposed by the lease.

dkh wrote:

The Natural Philosopher wrote in
:


dkh wrote:


Getting some refurbishment work done at the back of my house which
is seeing a new concrete floor being poured this week (140-150mm deep
afaik).

2 questions :


Yes. Use thinned PVA anyway to kill dusting.


will thinned PVA not act as a seal an inhibit the drying of the concrete ?
I like the idea but would be concerned if it lengthened the drying time...

Somewaht, but PVA itself is hygroscopic. Soak a lump of dried in water
and it gioes whiote all over again..

Declan

Adrian Boliston wrote:

"dkh" wrote:


Getting some refurbishment work done at the back of my house which
is seeing a new concrete floor being poured this week (140-150mm deep
afaik).

2 questions :

Q1: Whats the typical drying time for this thats acceptable
for tiling or wooden laminate flooring


Just noticed this post about concrete flooring and wood floors, as I'm about
to move into a "new build" flat with concrete flooring, and would rather
have a wood floor than carpet.

The flat is on the second floor, so my guess is that the floor is precast
rather than poured concrete, but it will have been scimmed up with a top
layer.

How long would this type of floor take to dry prior to taking a wood floor?

I will be hopefully using an "acoustic" mat with slots which allow the 20mm
wood layer to be bonded with a special adhesive to the floor whilst abiding
by the strict noise restrictions imposed by the lease.


I wold persnoally wait a couple of months to be safe.

PVA itself is hygroscopic

Eh? Pity John Schmitt doesn't hang out here any more.

Soak a lump of dried in water and it gioes whiote all over again..

It's slightly sensitive to water, but hardly hygroscopic. Like all
emulsions
it speeds drying by forcing the water content on to the surface where it
can
evaporate more easily.