I have a '06 Dodge 2500 short bed. I need to make a mondo headache rack so
I can utilize my trips to Vegas to save about 33% over local steel prices.
Carry back 1,000# of steel.

My concerns over several truck racks that I have built is:

When I make them to mount on the rails, the rails or side pockets rip out.
I need to take it from the front end of the bed all the way to the front
bumper so I can get 20' sticks on there.

I want to make it so that it is removable without becoming a day long deal.

I want to make a combination of rail supports, pocket stakes, and verticals
down to the bed, bolting onto any substantial crossmember rather than just
sheet metal bed flooring to handle the weight.

Any ideas, or cites to plans that will incorporate this for a rack that will
carry a heavy load of pipe/square tubing safely?

Gusseting, and do you do your gusseting rigid or gimbaled? That is, do you
just weld in solid braces, or weld them in with drilled bolts so they will
flex?

I also want to build gimbaled vertical supports down to the front bumper
pulling eyes so that the unit will flex when going over curbs and filling
station entries. Drilled gimbals will be at the top and bottom of the
vertical supports on the front of the rack. I made one of the first racks
in the Las Vegas valley to use this, and it was copied fast and furiously.
The distance from the front bumper to the back of the cab is +50% of the
whole rack, so needs front support.

Ideas on what you've built appreciated. e mail at

Steve

Steve, why do you need a rack to carry 1,000 lbs of steel?

Can's you put it n the bed itself?

i

On 2011-05-14, Steve B wrote:
I have a '06 Dodge 2500 short bed. I need to make a mondo headache rack so
I can utilize my trips to Vegas to save about 33% over local steel prices.
Carry back 1,000# of steel.

My concerns over several truck racks that I have built is:

When I make them to mount on the rails, the rails or side pockets rip out.
I need to take it from the front end of the bed all the way to the front
bumper so I can get 20' sticks on there.

I want to make it so that it is removable without becoming a day long deal.

I want to make a combination of rail supports, pocket stakes, and verticals
down to the bed, bolting onto any substantial crossmember rather than just
sheet metal bed flooring to handle the weight.

Any ideas, or cites to plans that will incorporate this for a rack that will
carry a heavy load of pipe/square tubing safely?

Gusseting, and do you do your gusseting rigid or gimbaled? That is, do you
just weld in solid braces, or weld them in with drilled bolts so they will
flex?

I also want to build gimbaled vertical supports down to the front bumper
pulling eyes so that the unit will flex when going over curbs and filling
station entries. Drilled gimbals will be at the top and bottom of the
vertical supports on the front of the rack. I made one of the first racks
in the Las Vegas valley to use this, and it was copied fast and furiously.
The distance from the front bumper to the back of the cab is +50% of the
whole rack, so needs front support.

Ideas on what you've built appreciated. e mail at

Steve

Ignoramus15921 wrote:
Steve, why do you need a rack to carry 1,000 lbs of steel?

Can's you put it n the bed itself?

i

He said it's a short bed , and he wants to carry 20' stock . Overhead rack
is the only way .
--
Snag
Learning keeps
you young !

"Ignoramus15921" wrote in message
...
Steve, why do you need a rack to carry 1,000 lbs of steel?

Can's you put it n the bed itself?

i

6.5' bed ........... 20'0" lengths of steel.

Do the math.

Steve

Steve B wrote:

I have a '06 Dodge 2500 short bed. I need to make a mondo headache rack so
I can utilize my trips to Vegas to save about 33% over local steel prices.
Carry back 1,000# of steel.

My concerns over several truck racks that I have built is:

When I make them to mount on the rails, the rails or side pockets rip out.
I need to take it from the front end of the bed all the way to the front
bumper so I can get 20' sticks on there.

I want to make it so that it is removable without becoming a day long deal.

I want to make a combination of rail supports, pocket stakes, and verticals
down to the bed, bolting onto any substantial crossmember rather than just
sheet metal bed flooring to handle the weight.

Any ideas, or cites to plans that will incorporate this for a rack that will
carry a heavy load of pipe/square tubing safely?

Gusseting, and do you do your gusseting rigid or gimbaled? That is, do you
just weld in solid braces, or weld them in with drilled bolts so they will
flex?

I also want to build gimbaled vertical supports down to the front bumper
pulling eyes so that the unit will flex when going over curbs and filling
station entries. Drilled gimbals will be at the top and bottom of the
vertical supports on the front of the rack. I made one of the first racks
in the Las Vegas valley to use this, and it was copied fast and furiously.
The distance from the front bumper to the back of the cab is +50% of the
whole rack, so needs front support.

Ideas on what you've built appreciated. e mail at

Steve

1,000# is way too heavy to put on an overhead rack, those racks are for
modest weights like ladders, PVC pipe and conduit. I don't know about
where you are, but around here you can rent an 18' or larger equipment
trailer for about $50/day, and that would be a much better option for
hauling a load of steel.

got it, sorry

On 2011-05-14, Steve B wrote:

"Ignoramus15921" wrote in message
...
Steve, why do you need a rack to carry 1,000 lbs of steel?

Can's you put it n the bed itself?

i

6.5' bed ........... 20'0" lengths of steel.

Do the math.

Steve

"Pete C." wrote in message
ter.com...

Steve B wrote:

I have a '06 Dodge 2500 short bed. I need to make a mondo headache rack
so
I can utilize my trips to Vegas to save about 33% over local steel
prices.
Carry back 1,000# of steel.

My concerns over several truck racks that I have built is:

When I make them to mount on the rails, the rails or side pockets rip
out.
I need to take it from the front end of the bed all the way to the front
bumper so I can get 20' sticks on there.

I want to make it so that it is removable without becoming a day long
deal.

I want to make a combination of rail supports, pocket stakes, and
verticals
down to the bed, bolting onto any substantial crossmember rather than
just
sheet metal bed flooring to handle the weight.

Any ideas, or cites to plans that will incorporate this for a rack that
will
carry a heavy load of pipe/square tubing safely?

Gusseting, and do you do your gusseting rigid or gimbaled? That is, do
you
just weld in solid braces, or weld them in with drilled bolts so they
will
flex?

I also want to build gimbaled vertical supports down to the front bumper
pulling eyes so that the unit will flex when going over curbs and filling
station entries. Drilled gimbals will be at the top and bottom of the
vertical supports on the front of the rack. I made one of the first
racks
in the Las Vegas valley to use this, and it was copied fast and
furiously.
The distance from the front bumper to the back of the cab is +50% of the
whole rack, so needs front support.

Ideas on what you've built appreciated. e mail at

Steve

1,000# is way too heavy to put on an overhead rack, those racks are for
modest weights like ladders, PVC pipe and conduit. I don't know about
where you are, but around here you can rent an 18' or larger equipment
trailer for about $50/day, and that would be a much better option for
hauling a load of steel.

Its all fun and games till someone gets killed.

--

Ignoramus15921 wrote:
Steve, why do you need a rack to carry 1,000 lbs of steel?

Can's you put it n the bed itself?

i

On 2011-05-14, Steve B wrote:
I have a '06 Dodge 2500 short bed. I need to make a mondo headache rack so
I can utilize my trips to Vegas to save about 33% over local steel prices.
Carry back 1,000# of steel.

My concerns over several truck racks that I have built is:

When I make them to mount on the rails, the rails or side pockets rip out.
I need to take it from the front end of the bed all the way to the front
bumper so I can get 20' sticks on there.

I want to make it so that it is removable without becoming a day long deal.

I want to make a combination of rail supports, pocket stakes, and verticals
down to the bed, bolting onto any substantial crossmember rather than just
sheet metal bed flooring to handle the weight.

Any ideas, or cites to plans that will incorporate this for a rack that will
carry a heavy load of pipe/square tubing safely?

Gusseting, and do you do your gusseting rigid or gimbaled? That is, do you
just weld in solid braces, or weld them in with drilled bolts so they will
flex?

I also want to build gimbaled vertical supports down to the front bumper
pulling eyes so that the unit will flex when going over curbs and filling
station entries. Drilled gimbals will be at the top and bottom of the
vertical supports on the front of the rack. I made one of the first racks
in the Las Vegas valley to use this, and it was copied fast and furiously.
The distance from the front bumper to the back of the cab is +50% of the
whole rack, so needs front support.

Ideas on what you've built appreciated. e mail at

Steve


Thule Ironman 360 rack. Built to handle up to 1800 pounds, with NO front
supports.

--
Steve W.

"Pete C." wrote in message
ter.com...

Steve B wrote:

I have a '06 Dodge 2500 short bed. I need to make a mondo headache rack
so
I can utilize my trips to Vegas to save about 33% over local steel
prices.
Carry back 1,000# of steel.

My concerns over several truck racks that I have built is:

When I make them to mount on the rails, the rails or side pockets rip
out.
I need to take it from the front end of the bed all the way to the front
bumper so I can get 20' sticks on there.

I want to make it so that it is removable without becoming a day long
deal.

I want to make a combination of rail supports, pocket stakes, and
verticals
down to the bed, bolting onto any substantial crossmember rather than
just
sheet metal bed flooring to handle the weight.

Any ideas, or cites to plans that will incorporate this for a rack that
will
carry a heavy load of pipe/square tubing safely?

Gusseting, and do you do your gusseting rigid or gimbaled? That is, do
you
just weld in solid braces, or weld them in with drilled bolts so they
will
flex?

I also want to build gimbaled vertical supports down to the front bumper
pulling eyes so that the unit will flex when going over curbs and filling
station entries. Drilled gimbals will be at the top and bottom of the
vertical supports on the front of the rack. I made one of the first
racks
in the Las Vegas valley to use this, and it was copied fast and
furiously.
The distance from the front bumper to the back of the cab is +50% of the
whole rack, so needs front support.

Ideas on what you've built appreciated. e mail at

Steve

1,000# is way too heavy to put on an overhead rack, those racks are for
modest weights like ladders, PVC pipe and conduit. I don't know about
where you are, but around here you can rent an 18' or larger equipment
trailer for about $50/day, and that would be a much better option for
hauling a load of steel.

Rent? I just steal my dad's trailer when he isn't looking. I try to get it
unloaded before he steals it back.

On Sat, 14 May 2011 10:58:10 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


Steve B wrote:

I have a '06 Dodge 2500 short bed. I need to make a mondo headache rack so
I can utilize my trips to Vegas to save about 33% over local steel prices.
Carry back 1,000# of steel.

My concerns over several truck racks that I have built is:

When I make them to mount on the rails, the rails or side pockets rip out.
I need to take it from the front end of the bed all the way to the front
bumper so I can get 20' sticks on there.

I want to make it so that it is removable without becoming a day long deal.

I want to make a combination of rail supports, pocket stakes, and verticals
down to the bed, bolting onto any substantial crossmember rather than just
sheet metal bed flooring to handle the weight.

Any ideas, or cites to plans that will incorporate this for a rack that will
carry a heavy load of pipe/square tubing safely?

Gusseting, and do you do your gusseting rigid or gimbaled? That is, do you
just weld in solid braces, or weld them in with drilled bolts so they will
flex?

I also want to build gimbaled vertical supports down to the front bumper
pulling eyes so that the unit will flex when going over curbs and filling
station entries. Drilled gimbals will be at the top and bottom of the
vertical supports on the front of the rack. I made one of the first racks
in the Las Vegas valley to use this, and it was copied fast and furiously.
The distance from the front bumper to the back of the cab is +50% of the
whole rack, so needs front support.

Ideas on what you've built appreciated. e mail at

Steve

1,000# is way too heavy to put on an overhead rack, those racks are for
modest weights like ladders, PVC pipe and conduit. I don't know about
where you are, but around here you can rent an 18' or larger equipment
trailer for about $50/day, and that would be a much better option for
hauling a load of steel.

I have to agree. Making up a simple trailer for this is very easy to do
and takes very little to build one. Some pipe, an axle and some supports
and thats about it.

Look at some of the trailers the power/phone companies use to haul poles
with.

Gunner

--
"If I say two plus two is four and a Democrat says two plus two is eight,
it's not a partial victory for me when we agree that two plus two is
six. " Jonah Goldberg (modified)

On Sat, 14 May 2011 08:02:09 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:


"Ignoramus15921" wrote in message
m...
Steve, why do you need a rack to carry 1,000 lbs of steel?

Can's you put it n the bed itself?

i

6.5' bed ........... 20'0" lengths of steel.

You can't just fold it?


Do the math.

I have the 6.5' bed, too, and have them cut the stick in half before
bringing it home. I also carry a roll of yellow CAUTION tape in the
truck, using it to mark the ends of lumber and metal when I buy it.

--
It could probably be shown by facts and figures that there is no
distinctively native American criminal class except Congress.
-- Mark Twain

On Sat, 14 May 2011 12:57:15 -0400, "Steve W."
wrote:

Ignoramus15921 wrote:
Steve, why do you need a rack to carry 1,000 lbs of steel?

Can's you put it n the bed itself?

i

On 2011-05-14, Steve B wrote:
I have a '06 Dodge 2500 short bed. I need to make a mondo headache rack so
I can utilize my trips to Vegas to save about 33% over local steel prices.
Carry back 1,000# of steel.

My concerns over several truck racks that I have built is:

When I make them to mount on the rails, the rails or side pockets rip out.
I need to take it from the front end of the bed all the way to the front
bumper so I can get 20' sticks on there.

I want to make it so that it is removable without becoming a day long deal.

I want to make a combination of rail supports, pocket stakes, and verticals
down to the bed, bolting onto any substantial crossmember rather than just
sheet metal bed flooring to handle the weight.

Any ideas, or cites to plans that will incorporate this for a rack that will
carry a heavy load of pipe/square tubing safely?

Gusseting, and do you do your gusseting rigid or gimbaled? That is, do you
just weld in solid braces, or weld them in with drilled bolts so they will
flex?

I also want to build gimbaled vertical supports down to the front bumper
pulling eyes so that the unit will flex when going over curbs and filling
station entries. Drilled gimbals will be at the top and bottom of the
vertical supports on the front of the rack. I made one of the first racks
in the Las Vegas valley to use this, and it was copied fast and furiously.
The distance from the front bumper to the back of the cab is +50% of the
whole rack, so needs front support.

Ideas on what you've built appreciated. e mail at

Steve


Thule Ironman 360 rack. Built to handle up to 1800 pounds, with NO front
supports.

Just DO NOT GO AROUND ANY CORNERS WITH IT FILLED!

And IF the metal stuck to the rack during a panic stop, it might flip
the truck. Happy Endos!

--
It could probably be shown by facts and figures that there is no
distinctively native American criminal class except Congress.
-- Mark Twain

Hang the rack under the car and mount it from the frame.
If you have lots of it - get a trailer. It will last better and
can be used as temp storage - while the truck has to be offloaded
when tired or before daybreak.

Martin

On 5/14/2011 10:02 AM, Steve B wrote:
id wrote in message
...
Steve, why do you need a rack to carry 1,000 lbs of steel?

Can's you put it n the bed itself?

i

6.5' bed ........... 20'0" lengths of steel.

Do the math.

Steve

"Steve B" wrote in message
...
I have a '06 Dodge 2500 short bed. I need to make a mondo headache rack so
I can utilize my trips to Vegas to save about 33% over local steel prices.
Carry back 1,000# of steel.

My concerns over several truck racks that I have built is:

When I make them to mount on the rails, the rails or side pockets rip out.
I need to take it from the front end of the bed all the way to the front
bumper so I can get 20' sticks on there.

I want to make it so that it is removable without becoming a day long
deal.

I want to make a combination of rail supports, pocket stakes, and
verticals down to the bed, bolting onto any substantial crossmember rather
than just sheet metal bed flooring to handle the weight.

Any ideas, or cites to plans that will incorporate this for a rack that
will carry a heavy load of pipe/square tubing safely?

Gusseting, and do you do your gusseting rigid or gimbaled? That is, do
you just weld in solid braces, or weld them in with drilled bolts so they
will flex?

I also want to build gimbaled vertical supports down to the front bumper
pulling eyes so that the unit will flex when going over curbs and filling
station entries. Drilled gimbals will be at the top and bottom of the
vertical supports on the front of the rack. I made one of the first racks
in the Las Vegas valley to use this, and it was copied fast and furiously.
The distance from the front bumper to the back of the cab is +50% of the
whole rack, so needs front support.

Ideas on what you've built appreciated. e mail at


What the others said....
BUT.....

Do you have a roof rack? If you do, I'll pass along what I've done, for 20,
24 footers -- 04 Nissan Frontier, 6' bed, crew cab. But like the others
said, for mebbe a few hunnerd #, not 1,000.
Heh, and not exactly a pleasant ride, either......

You could carry a couple hunnerd pounds of 20-25 footers with a supported
roofrack, and have the rest cut to 8-10 ft, and fashion a "bed extender",
basically a rectangular box, chained or fastened to the bed, to keep these
pieces from sliding off.
You have to make sure the material is well-constrained, so there is no
possibility of **** rolling/slipping/flipping out.
10 feet on a 6.5' bed is 3.5' overhanging, which is doable, and would be
just one cut from 20 footers, ie, not too much of a cutting charge.
--
EA
..





Steve

Existential Angst wrote in
rec.crafts.metalworking on Sun, 15 May 2011 09:20:16 -0400:

You could carry a couple hunnerd pounds of 20-25 footers with a supported
roofrack, and have the rest cut to 8-10 ft, and fashion a "bed extender",

I've seen a cargo support that goes into a 2" receiver and supports
overhanging loads.
--

Dan H.
northshore MA.

On Fri, 13 May 2011 22:24:14 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

I have a '06 Dodge 2500 short bed. I need to make a mondo headache rack so
I can utilize my trips to Vegas to save about 33% over local steel prices.
Carry back 1,000# of steel.

My concerns over several truck racks that I have built is:

When I make them to mount on the rails, the rails or side pockets rip out.
I need to take it from the front end of the bed all the way to the front
bumper so I can get 20' sticks on there.

I want to make it so that it is removable without becoming a day long deal.

I want to make a combination of rail supports, pocket stakes, and verticals
down to the bed, bolting onto any substantial crossmember rather than just
sheet metal bed flooring to handle the weight.

Any ideas, or cites to plans that will incorporate this for a rack that will
carry a heavy load of pipe/square tubing safely?

Gusseting, and do you do your gusseting rigid or gimbaled? That is, do you
just weld in solid braces, or weld them in with drilled bolts so they will
flex?

I also want to build gimbaled vertical supports down to the front bumper
pulling eyes so that the unit will flex when going over curbs and filling
station entries. Drilled gimbals will be at the top and bottom of the
vertical supports on the front of the rack. I made one of the first racks
in the Las Vegas valley to use this, and it was copied fast and furiously.
The distance from the front bumper to the back of the cab is +50% of the
whole rack, so needs front support.

Ideas on what you've built appreciated. e mail at

Steve


I've seen guy's trucks that do swimming pool steel and they hang it
off the sides about axle height.


SW

Steve,

Do you **really** need the 20' in single lengths? I live 200 miles
from our aluminum suppliers and I have a SWB Dodge with extended cab.
The tray is barely 8' long. I get the metal people to cut everything
in half and they do it for free. Drop the tailgate down, rope them so
they can't slide out and a couple of red flags they also supply and I
am off home.

I have 3/8" x 2" U-bolts mounted standing up on the rear bumper either
side of the tailgate as rope loops. I can get everything really
tightly roped through those. The rear bumper is rated to haul a 5000-
lb trailer so nothing is coming loose.

I used to haul the 18' car trailer down and back until I realized that
only about 3 of the 16' and 20' sticks in a load of about 1200-lbs,
were used in the full length, so now I weld two halves if I ever have
to have 16' etc.

Dave

On Mon, 16 May 2011 16:04:10 -0700 (PDT), "Dave, I can't do that"
wrote:

Steve,

Do you **really** need the 20' in single lengths? I live 200 miles
from our aluminum suppliers and I have a SWB Dodge with extended cab.
The tray is barely 8' long. I get the metal people to cut everything
in half and they do it for free. Drop the tailgate down, rope them so
they can't slide out and a couple of red flags they also supply and I
am off home.

I have 3/8" x 2" U-bolts mounted standing up on the rear bumper either
side of the tailgate as rope loops. I can get everything really
tightly roped through those. The rear bumper is rated to haul a 5000-
lb trailer so nothing is coming loose.

I used to haul the 18' car trailer down and back until I realized that
only about 3 of the 16' and 20' sticks in a load of about 1200-lbs,
were used in the full length, so now I weld two halves if I ever have
to have 16' etc.

Dave

Dave, your talking to me not Steve...

Me, well I don't like committing and open the hood and put about 4
wires trough a hole and slam the hood shut. Then wire over the front
corner of the bed and more wire at the tailgate and let it hang on the
side of the truck with rags between.


SW