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Truck rack
I have a '06 Dodge 2500 short bed. I need to make a mondo headache rack so
I can utilize my trips to Vegas to save about 33% over local steel prices. Carry back 1,000# of steel. My concerns over several truck racks that I have built is: When I make them to mount on the rails, the rails or side pockets rip out. I need to take it from the front end of the bed all the way to the front bumper so I can get 20' sticks on there. I want to make it so that it is removable without becoming a day long deal. I want to make a combination of rail supports, pocket stakes, and verticals down to the bed, bolting onto any substantial crossmember rather than just sheet metal bed flooring to handle the weight. Any ideas, or cites to plans that will incorporate this for a rack that will carry a heavy load of pipe/square tubing safely? Gusseting, and do you do your gusseting rigid or gimbaled? That is, do you just weld in solid braces, or weld them in with drilled bolts so they will flex? I also want to build gimbaled vertical supports down to the front bumper pulling eyes so that the unit will flex when going over curbs and filling station entries. Drilled gimbals will be at the top and bottom of the vertical supports on the front of the rack. I made one of the first racks in the Las Vegas valley to use this, and it was copied fast and furiously. The distance from the front bumper to the back of the cab is +50% of the whole rack, so needs front support. Ideas on what you've built appreciated. e mail at Steve |
Truck rack
Steve, why do you need a rack to carry 1,000 lbs of steel?
Can's you put it n the bed itself? i On 2011-05-14, Steve B wrote: I have a '06 Dodge 2500 short bed. I need to make a mondo headache rack so I can utilize my trips to Vegas to save about 33% over local steel prices. Carry back 1,000# of steel. My concerns over several truck racks that I have built is: When I make them to mount on the rails, the rails or side pockets rip out. I need to take it from the front end of the bed all the way to the front bumper so I can get 20' sticks on there. I want to make it so that it is removable without becoming a day long deal. I want to make a combination of rail supports, pocket stakes, and verticals down to the bed, bolting onto any substantial crossmember rather than just sheet metal bed flooring to handle the weight. Any ideas, or cites to plans that will incorporate this for a rack that will carry a heavy load of pipe/square tubing safely? Gusseting, and do you do your gusseting rigid or gimbaled? That is, do you just weld in solid braces, or weld them in with drilled bolts so they will flex? I also want to build gimbaled vertical supports down to the front bumper pulling eyes so that the unit will flex when going over curbs and filling station entries. Drilled gimbals will be at the top and bottom of the vertical supports on the front of the rack. I made one of the first racks in the Las Vegas valley to use this, and it was copied fast and furiously. The distance from the front bumper to the back of the cab is +50% of the whole rack, so needs front support. Ideas on what you've built appreciated. e mail at Steve |
Truck rack
Ignoramus15921 wrote:
Steve, why do you need a rack to carry 1,000 lbs of steel? Can's you put it n the bed itself? i He said it's a short bed , and he wants to carry 20' stock . Overhead rack is the only way . -- Snag Learning keeps you young ! |
Truck rack
"Ignoramus15921" wrote in message ... Steve, why do you need a rack to carry 1,000 lbs of steel? Can's you put it n the bed itself? i 6.5' bed ........... 20'0" lengths of steel. Do the math. Steve |
Truck rack
Steve B wrote: I have a '06 Dodge 2500 short bed. I need to make a mondo headache rack so I can utilize my trips to Vegas to save about 33% over local steel prices. Carry back 1,000# of steel. My concerns over several truck racks that I have built is: When I make them to mount on the rails, the rails or side pockets rip out. I need to take it from the front end of the bed all the way to the front bumper so I can get 20' sticks on there. I want to make it so that it is removable without becoming a day long deal. I want to make a combination of rail supports, pocket stakes, and verticals down to the bed, bolting onto any substantial crossmember rather than just sheet metal bed flooring to handle the weight. Any ideas, or cites to plans that will incorporate this for a rack that will carry a heavy load of pipe/square tubing safely? Gusseting, and do you do your gusseting rigid or gimbaled? That is, do you just weld in solid braces, or weld them in with drilled bolts so they will flex? I also want to build gimbaled vertical supports down to the front bumper pulling eyes so that the unit will flex when going over curbs and filling station entries. Drilled gimbals will be at the top and bottom of the vertical supports on the front of the rack. I made one of the first racks in the Las Vegas valley to use this, and it was copied fast and furiously. The distance from the front bumper to the back of the cab is +50% of the whole rack, so needs front support. Ideas on what you've built appreciated. e mail at Steve 1,000# is way too heavy to put on an overhead rack, those racks are for modest weights like ladders, PVC pipe and conduit. I don't know about where you are, but around here you can rent an 18' or larger equipment trailer for about $50/day, and that would be a much better option for hauling a load of steel. |
Truck rack
got it, sorry
On 2011-05-14, Steve B wrote: "Ignoramus15921" wrote in message ... Steve, why do you need a rack to carry 1,000 lbs of steel? Can's you put it n the bed itself? i 6.5' bed ........... 20'0" lengths of steel. Do the math. Steve |
Truck rack
"Pete C." wrote in message ter.com... Steve B wrote: I have a '06 Dodge 2500 short bed. I need to make a mondo headache rack so I can utilize my trips to Vegas to save about 33% over local steel prices. Carry back 1,000# of steel. My concerns over several truck racks that I have built is: When I make them to mount on the rails, the rails or side pockets rip out. I need to take it from the front end of the bed all the way to the front bumper so I can get 20' sticks on there. I want to make it so that it is removable without becoming a day long deal. I want to make a combination of rail supports, pocket stakes, and verticals down to the bed, bolting onto any substantial crossmember rather than just sheet metal bed flooring to handle the weight. Any ideas, or cites to plans that will incorporate this for a rack that will carry a heavy load of pipe/square tubing safely? Gusseting, and do you do your gusseting rigid or gimbaled? That is, do you just weld in solid braces, or weld them in with drilled bolts so they will flex? I also want to build gimbaled vertical supports down to the front bumper pulling eyes so that the unit will flex when going over curbs and filling station entries. Drilled gimbals will be at the top and bottom of the vertical supports on the front of the rack. I made one of the first racks in the Las Vegas valley to use this, and it was copied fast and furiously. The distance from the front bumper to the back of the cab is +50% of the whole rack, so needs front support. Ideas on what you've built appreciated. e mail at Steve 1,000# is way too heavy to put on an overhead rack, those racks are for modest weights like ladders, PVC pipe and conduit. I don't know about where you are, but around here you can rent an 18' or larger equipment trailer for about $50/day, and that would be a much better option for hauling a load of steel. Its all fun and games till someone gets killed. -- |
Truck rack
Ignoramus15921 wrote:
Steve, why do you need a rack to carry 1,000 lbs of steel? Can's you put it n the bed itself? i On 2011-05-14, Steve B wrote: I have a '06 Dodge 2500 short bed. I need to make a mondo headache rack so I can utilize my trips to Vegas to save about 33% over local steel prices. Carry back 1,000# of steel. My concerns over several truck racks that I have built is: When I make them to mount on the rails, the rails or side pockets rip out. I need to take it from the front end of the bed all the way to the front bumper so I can get 20' sticks on there. I want to make it so that it is removable without becoming a day long deal. I want to make a combination of rail supports, pocket stakes, and verticals down to the bed, bolting onto any substantial crossmember rather than just sheet metal bed flooring to handle the weight. Any ideas, or cites to plans that will incorporate this for a rack that will carry a heavy load of pipe/square tubing safely? Gusseting, and do you do your gusseting rigid or gimbaled? That is, do you just weld in solid braces, or weld them in with drilled bolts so they will flex? I also want to build gimbaled vertical supports down to the front bumper pulling eyes so that the unit will flex when going over curbs and filling station entries. Drilled gimbals will be at the top and bottom of the vertical supports on the front of the rack. I made one of the first racks in the Las Vegas valley to use this, and it was copied fast and furiously. The distance from the front bumper to the back of the cab is +50% of the whole rack, so needs front support. Ideas on what you've built appreciated. e mail at Steve Thule Ironman 360 rack. Built to handle up to 1800 pounds, with NO front supports. -- Steve W. |
Truck rack
"Pete C." wrote in message
ter.com... Steve B wrote: I have a '06 Dodge 2500 short bed. I need to make a mondo headache rack so I can utilize my trips to Vegas to save about 33% over local steel prices. Carry back 1,000# of steel. My concerns over several truck racks that I have built is: When I make them to mount on the rails, the rails or side pockets rip out. I need to take it from the front end of the bed all the way to the front bumper so I can get 20' sticks on there. I want to make it so that it is removable without becoming a day long deal. I want to make a combination of rail supports, pocket stakes, and verticals down to the bed, bolting onto any substantial crossmember rather than just sheet metal bed flooring to handle the weight. Any ideas, or cites to plans that will incorporate this for a rack that will carry a heavy load of pipe/square tubing safely? Gusseting, and do you do your gusseting rigid or gimbaled? That is, do you just weld in solid braces, or weld them in with drilled bolts so they will flex? I also want to build gimbaled vertical supports down to the front bumper pulling eyes so that the unit will flex when going over curbs and filling station entries. Drilled gimbals will be at the top and bottom of the vertical supports on the front of the rack. I made one of the first racks in the Las Vegas valley to use this, and it was copied fast and furiously. The distance from the front bumper to the back of the cab is +50% of the whole rack, so needs front support. Ideas on what you've built appreciated. e mail at Steve 1,000# is way too heavy to put on an overhead rack, those racks are for modest weights like ladders, PVC pipe and conduit. I don't know about where you are, but around here you can rent an 18' or larger equipment trailer for about $50/day, and that would be a much better option for hauling a load of steel. Rent? I just steal my dad's trailer when he isn't looking. I try to get it unloaded before he steals it back. |
Truck rack
On Sat, 14 May 2011 10:58:10 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote: Steve B wrote: I have a '06 Dodge 2500 short bed. I need to make a mondo headache rack so I can utilize my trips to Vegas to save about 33% over local steel prices. Carry back 1,000# of steel. My concerns over several truck racks that I have built is: When I make them to mount on the rails, the rails or side pockets rip out. I need to take it from the front end of the bed all the way to the front bumper so I can get 20' sticks on there. I want to make it so that it is removable without becoming a day long deal. I want to make a combination of rail supports, pocket stakes, and verticals down to the bed, bolting onto any substantial crossmember rather than just sheet metal bed flooring to handle the weight. Any ideas, or cites to plans that will incorporate this for a rack that will carry a heavy load of pipe/square tubing safely? Gusseting, and do you do your gusseting rigid or gimbaled? That is, do you just weld in solid braces, or weld them in with drilled bolts so they will flex? I also want to build gimbaled vertical supports down to the front bumper pulling eyes so that the unit will flex when going over curbs and filling station entries. Drilled gimbals will be at the top and bottom of the vertical supports on the front of the rack. I made one of the first racks in the Las Vegas valley to use this, and it was copied fast and furiously. The distance from the front bumper to the back of the cab is +50% of the whole rack, so needs front support. Ideas on what you've built appreciated. e mail at Steve 1,000# is way too heavy to put on an overhead rack, those racks are for modest weights like ladders, PVC pipe and conduit. I don't know about where you are, but around here you can rent an 18' or larger equipment trailer for about $50/day, and that would be a much better option for hauling a load of steel. I have to agree. Making up a simple trailer for this is very easy to do and takes very little to build one. Some pipe, an axle and some supports and thats about it. Look at some of the trailers the power/phone companies use to haul poles with. Gunner -- "If I say two plus two is four and a Democrat says two plus two is eight, it's not a partial victory for me when we agree that two plus two is six. " Jonah Goldberg (modified) |
Truck rack
On Sat, 14 May 2011 08:02:09 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote: "Ignoramus15921" wrote in message m... Steve, why do you need a rack to carry 1,000 lbs of steel? Can's you put it n the bed itself? i 6.5' bed ........... 20'0" lengths of steel. You can't just fold it? Do the math. I have the 6.5' bed, too, and have them cut the stick in half before bringing it home. I also carry a roll of yellow CAUTION tape in the truck, using it to mark the ends of lumber and metal when I buy it. -- It could probably be shown by facts and figures that there is no distinctively native American criminal class except Congress. -- Mark Twain |
Truck rack
On Sat, 14 May 2011 12:57:15 -0400, "Steve W."
wrote: Ignoramus15921 wrote: Steve, why do you need a rack to carry 1,000 lbs of steel? Can's you put it n the bed itself? i On 2011-05-14, Steve B wrote: I have a '06 Dodge 2500 short bed. I need to make a mondo headache rack so I can utilize my trips to Vegas to save about 33% over local steel prices. Carry back 1,000# of steel. My concerns over several truck racks that I have built is: When I make them to mount on the rails, the rails or side pockets rip out. I need to take it from the front end of the bed all the way to the front bumper so I can get 20' sticks on there. I want to make it so that it is removable without becoming a day long deal. I want to make a combination of rail supports, pocket stakes, and verticals down to the bed, bolting onto any substantial crossmember rather than just sheet metal bed flooring to handle the weight. Any ideas, or cites to plans that will incorporate this for a rack that will carry a heavy load of pipe/square tubing safely? Gusseting, and do you do your gusseting rigid or gimbaled? That is, do you just weld in solid braces, or weld them in with drilled bolts so they will flex? I also want to build gimbaled vertical supports down to the front bumper pulling eyes so that the unit will flex when going over curbs and filling station entries. Drilled gimbals will be at the top and bottom of the vertical supports on the front of the rack. I made one of the first racks in the Las Vegas valley to use this, and it was copied fast and furiously. The distance from the front bumper to the back of the cab is +50% of the whole rack, so needs front support. Ideas on what you've built appreciated. e mail at Steve Thule Ironman 360 rack. Built to handle up to 1800 pounds, with NO front supports. Just DO NOT GO AROUND ANY CORNERS WITH IT FILLED! And IF the metal stuck to the rack during a panic stop, it might flip the truck. Happy Endos! -- It could probably be shown by facts and figures that there is no distinctively native American criminal class except Congress. -- Mark Twain |
Truck rack
Hang the rack under the car and mount it from the frame.
If you have lots of it - get a trailer. It will last better and can be used as temp storage - while the truck has to be offloaded when tired or before daybreak. Martin On 5/14/2011 10:02 AM, Steve B wrote: id wrote in message ... Steve, why do you need a rack to carry 1,000 lbs of steel? Can's you put it n the bed itself? i 6.5' bed ........... 20'0" lengths of steel. Do the math. Steve |
Truck rack
Existential Angst wrote in
rec.crafts.metalworking on Sun, 15 May 2011 09:20:16 -0400: You could carry a couple hunnerd pounds of 20-25 footers with a supported roofrack, and have the rest cut to 8-10 ft, and fashion a "bed extender", I've seen a cargo support that goes into a 2" receiver and supports overhanging loads. -- Dan H. northshore MA. |
Truck rack
On Fri, 13 May 2011 22:24:14 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote: I have a '06 Dodge 2500 short bed. I need to make a mondo headache rack so I can utilize my trips to Vegas to save about 33% over local steel prices. Carry back 1,000# of steel. My concerns over several truck racks that I have built is: When I make them to mount on the rails, the rails or side pockets rip out. I need to take it from the front end of the bed all the way to the front bumper so I can get 20' sticks on there. I want to make it so that it is removable without becoming a day long deal. I want to make a combination of rail supports, pocket stakes, and verticals down to the bed, bolting onto any substantial crossmember rather than just sheet metal bed flooring to handle the weight. Any ideas, or cites to plans that will incorporate this for a rack that will carry a heavy load of pipe/square tubing safely? Gusseting, and do you do your gusseting rigid or gimbaled? That is, do you just weld in solid braces, or weld them in with drilled bolts so they will flex? I also want to build gimbaled vertical supports down to the front bumper pulling eyes so that the unit will flex when going over curbs and filling station entries. Drilled gimbals will be at the top and bottom of the vertical supports on the front of the rack. I made one of the first racks in the Las Vegas valley to use this, and it was copied fast and furiously. The distance from the front bumper to the back of the cab is +50% of the whole rack, so needs front support. Ideas on what you've built appreciated. e mail at Steve I've seen guy's trucks that do swimming pool steel and they hang it off the sides about axle height. SW |
Truck rack
Steve,
Do you **really** need the 20' in single lengths? I live 200 miles from our aluminum suppliers and I have a SWB Dodge with extended cab. The tray is barely 8' long. I get the metal people to cut everything in half and they do it for free. Drop the tailgate down, rope them so they can't slide out and a couple of red flags they also supply and I am off home. I have 3/8" x 2" U-bolts mounted standing up on the rear bumper either side of the tailgate as rope loops. I can get everything really tightly roped through those. The rear bumper is rated to haul a 5000- lb trailer so nothing is coming loose. I used to haul the 18' car trailer down and back until I realized that only about 3 of the 16' and 20' sticks in a load of about 1200-lbs, were used in the full length, so now I weld two halves if I ever have to have 16' etc. Dave |
Truck rack
On Mon, 16 May 2011 16:04:10 -0700 (PDT), "Dave, I can't do that"
wrote: Steve, Do you **really** need the 20' in single lengths? I live 200 miles from our aluminum suppliers and I have a SWB Dodge with extended cab. The tray is barely 8' long. I get the metal people to cut everything in half and they do it for free. Drop the tailgate down, rope them so they can't slide out and a couple of red flags they also supply and I am off home. I have 3/8" x 2" U-bolts mounted standing up on the rear bumper either side of the tailgate as rope loops. I can get everything really tightly roped through those. The rear bumper is rated to haul a 5000- lb trailer so nothing is coming loose. I used to haul the 18' car trailer down and back until I realized that only about 3 of the 16' and 20' sticks in a load of about 1200-lbs, were used in the full length, so now I weld two halves if I ever have to have 16' etc. Dave Dave, your talking to me not Steve... Me, well I don't like committing and open the hood and put about 4 wires trough a hole and slam the hood shut. Then wire over the front corner of the bed and more wire at the tailgate and let it hang on the side of the truck with rags between. SW |
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