"Don Foreman" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 11 Aug 2010 01:54:42 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:



Indeed. ID of the race was 2.667 based on the average of 10
measurements.

With telescoping gages, the "right" reading is probably the largest of
several similar readings, not the average. It's easy to screw them up
right at the instant of locking them before withdrawal. It's also
easy to have them slip when miking them.

Interesting, I've never "locked" a telescoping gauge before withdrawing it.
I was taught to put the gauge in the bore at an angle so that it was
slightly longer than the diameter THEN tighten it. Then pivot it out of the
bore in one motion. The gauge compresses a bit to match the diameter. It's
tight but not locked. This might not be the "correct" method but has worked
perfectly for me for over 35 years.

"Tim Wescott" wrote in message
...

I stick the gauge into the hole, wiggle it around, tighten it, then wiggle
it again -- if it doesn't feel right after I tighten it, I loosen it and
try again.

Not, mind you, that I resemble an experienced machinist in any way shape
or form. Nor do I trust my ability to use a telescoping gauge to within
less than .001 or .002.


I was taught to cock the telescoping gauge in the hole, snug the clamp down,
just a bit, and rock the gauge throught the hole. Then snug the clamp nut up
the rest of the way. The gent that taught me had been a machinist for many
years and could produce pure art with a lathe and mill.
The same fellow machined a dozen or so parts with a .050" deep, ~15"
diamter bore, +.010/- .000 tolerance. He used a high quality ruler and a
magnifing glass to measure the diameter. The company that ordered the part
accepted all of them. (maybe they had no way to measure them properly
either!)
Greg

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...

Thanks. But Ive got several sets of telescoping gages. One for the
normal run and a brand new Starret that I only use on Special
Stuff...and thats what I used. Next time..Ill make the damned things
.005 undersize and let em beat em on.

..005" press on a 2" bore is a bunch! Quarter to half a thousanth should be
plenty!
Greg

"Wes" wrote in message
Gunner Asch wrote:

Ive made 6 pairs of spacers...between a driven shaft (both
ends) and a
bearing race and each and every time, Ive gotten the OD
wrong.
Each and every time..tap on the bearing race..and the
******* slides on.

How the hell does one calculate such a thingy?

This was off a pumping unit gearbox..and the people are
starting to look
at me like im an utter bumpkin...which it looks like I
am...sigh.

The ID was to have a .002" interference fit..and I
accomplished this
with no issues. I machined the OD to be .003 larger than
the ID of the
bearing race....and once the bearing race was tapped a
couple times..the
damned thing slid on with a tad bit more than hand
pressure. Easy with a
small block of wood.

Blink blink....

Anyone got any ideas/help/calcs that would fill in this
blank space in
my knowlege?

Damn Gunner, you did have a bad day. My technique with
telescoping gages is to insert
them into a clean bore at an angle so they are longer than
the ID. Lock the set screw,
then wipe once. Carefully, with a light hand measure your
telescoping gage, write down
the number.

Repeat.

Really worried, repeat again.

If you are not getting the same measurement with in the
tolerance of what will be good try
to figure out what you are doing wrong.

You don't average, the largest measurement should be the
correct one.

I have a set of old Starrett telescoping gages at work.
These are the type where only one
side telescopes. I also have a newer set of gages where
both sides telescope at home. I
can honestly say, I'd rather have only one side telescope.
I haven't shot myself in the
foot with the new ones yet but I just don't like how they
feel.

On the fit. I tend to use 0.001" per inch but I know
there are all sorts of fits and some
are a bit more aggressive.

Sorry if my post this morning shows up and turns this into
a double post.

I read enough to see they gave up on you. Oh well, that
can happen. You need to try to
fab up something similar to test your technique. This is
fairly easy chit so I understand
why you are asking for help. Heck if it is something that
is weird enough, maybe you can
save some face with them if you can explain wtf happened
and they care.

I have notchy bearings in my cross feed that I got to get
fixed. I've blown a couple
dimensions when .020" more became something else. I got
to fix it soon. Got to work this
weekend but I have the following one off. I'll put that
on my to do list.

Here's another one to watch out for: when using a boring bar
on a
quick change tool post be careful when putting the bar back
on the
toolpost after taking a measurement. It's easy to just plunk
on the tool
holder and go at it but be sure to push on the cross slide
so the slack
is on the other side of the cross slide screw thread. Make
sense? It may not
be much but enough to throw off your predicted cut.....
phil

On 2010-08-11, Gunner Asch wrote:
Ive made 6 pairs of spacers...between a driven shaft (both ends) and a
bearing race and each and every time, Ive gotten the OD wrong.
Each and every time..tap on the bearing race..and the ******* slides on.

How the hell does one calculate such a thingy?

This was off a pumping unit gearbox..and the people are starting to look
at me like im an utter bumpkin...which it looks like I am...sigh.

The ID was to have a .002" interference fit..and I accomplished this
with no issues. I machined the OD to be .003 larger than the ID of the
bearing race....and once the bearing race was tapped a couple times..the
damned thing slid on with a tad bit more than hand pressure. Easy with a
small block of wood.

Blink blink....

Anyone got any ideas/help/calcs that would fill in this blank space in
my knowlege?

First off -- how big is the OD? The amount of oversize for an
interference fit is a function of diameter.

According to _Machinery's Handbook_:

"Allowance for forced fits -- the allowance per inch of diameter
usually ranges from 0.001" to 0.0025", 0.0015" being a fair
average. Ordinarily the allowance per inch decreases as the
diameter increases, thus the total allowance for a diameter of 2
inches might be 0.004", whereas for a diameter of 8 inches, the
total allowance might not be over 0.009" or 0.010"

In following pages, there are formulas and tables for
calculating desired fits based on among other things the OD of the part
containing the hole to fit.

This is what Ive been machineing parts for...

http://www.datinternational.ca/product.php?punits

Im going to have to get the Clausing 15" lathe running..the Hardinge
HLV-H...is way way too small for most of the work.

This suggests that it is a fairly hefty chunk of steel. So,
aside from the diameter -- are you using coolant? Without it, consider
the expansion while you are machining (from the heating). You may be
hitting the diameter when hot -- but when it cools down, it shrinks
enough to make a difference. If you don't have coolant, the solution is
to turn it to a bit oversized, go to bed, and the next morning measure
it and skim off just enough to make your intended dimension.

I installed a Axelson 20x120 lathe in their shop...but they dont have
3ph yet..or anytime soon...sigh....

Rotary converter time? How many HP does that lathe need?

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 2010-08-11, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Wed, 11 Aug 2010 01:09:45 -0500, Don Foreman
wrote:

On Tue, 10 Aug 2010 21:46:38 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

Ive made 6 pairs of spacers...between a driven shaft (both ends) and a
bearing race and each and every time, Ive gotten the OD wrong.
Each and every time..tap on the bearing race..and the ******* slides on.

How the hell does one calculate such a thingy?

This was off a pumping unit gearbox..and the people are starting to look
at me like im an utter bumpkin...which it looks like I am...sigh.

The ID was to have a .002" interference fit..and I accomplished this
with no issues. I machined the OD to be .003 larger than the ID of the
bearing race....and once the bearing race was tapped a couple times..the
damned thing slid on with a tad bit more than hand pressure. Easy with a
small block of wood.

Blink blink....

[ ... ]

Enco has a hell of a sale going on bore gages right now, about 30 bux
which is about 1/3 usual price. I just got three sizes with the
money I didn't spend on smokes the past couple of weeks. They're
Chinese, but they look like they'll work very nicely. I see no reason
not to trust them to a couple of tenths since the outside mikes I'll
use to calibrate them are known to be good to a tenth.


Indeed. ID of the race was 2.667 based on the average of 10
measurements.

That does not sound right. 2-2/3" diameter in inch
measurements, or 67.7418 mm. Most bearings these days are made to
integer mm sizes -- or if inch sizes, would be something a bit more
standard -- some power of two fraction, not thirds.

68mm would be 2.6772"
67mm would be 2.6378"

Hmm ... you're checking the telescoping gauges against a
micrometer -- but do you have standards to verify the accuracy of the
micrometer? Do you *trust* the standards? How about some gauge blocks?

Hmm ... I what about taking an adjustable parallel of
appropriate size and adjusting it to fit properly in the bearing race,
and them measuring across diagonally opposite edges as a double-check on
the telescoping gauges?

For that matter -- I have a boxed set of slips which have one
side angled, and the other size radiused for expanding in a hole and
then measuring the diameter across the projecting part. But they don't
go up that large, unfortunately.

But still -- as I just posted in my other reply (and which you
have not had a chance to read) -- what about thermal expansion while
turning the OD? nearly 3" diameter is big enough so you could get
significant expansion if you are turning off a lot of metal. Let it
cool off a little oversized, and then finish turn it.

Did you go back and check the diameter after the bearing went on
too easily?

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 2010-08-11, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Wed, 11 Aug 2010 08:14:24 -0400, "Rick" wrote:

[ ... ]

Curious myself..what is the thickness of the spacer? Material?

Tubular, out of steel (first batch was marked 12L14..but it was not!
That **** was hard hard hard!! and the first set of spacers Cracked when
pressed on the shafts. And they were .002 under. Hard enough to burn
out a decent carbide insert at 500 rmp in about 10 seconds. I tossed the
entire bar into the scrap bin. All 75 lbs of it.

Hmm ... 500 RPM at your (corrected below) diameter of 2.166" is
283 SFM. 12L14 with uncoated carbides should be between 615 and 935
SFM, so no problem if it were really 12L14.

4140 anywhere between 330 and 705 SFM depending on hardness for
"hard" carbides. For "tough" carbides, it is between 125 amd 175 SFM
for Brinell 375-425 -- so it might have been some of that.

wall thickness was about (from memory) about .235

OD was about 2.166, best as I can recall at 6:38 in the morning

O.K. *That* sounds a lot better than the 2.667" from an earlier
post. This calculates out as 55.0164 mm -- so it is almost certainly a
55 mm bore in the bearing.

Out of curiosity -- how large was the stock you started from?
That could determine just how hot you got the workpiece while turning.

They were spacers that were pressed on to the ends of a double
herringbone drive gear, with a 13" x 3" herringbone gear near one end.
Then a 8" bearing was put on each end to support the drive gear(s),
which then drove a second larger herringbone drive gear, which actually
turned the drive shaft that spun the counterweights and lifted the
pumping unit "arm".

Sounds like an impressive piece of equipment.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Wed, 11 Aug 2010 21:04:58 -0400, "Phil Kangas"
wrote:


"Wes" wrote in message
Gunner Asch wrote:

Ive made 6 pairs of spacers...between a driven shaft (both
ends) and a
bearing race and each and every time, Ive gotten the OD
wrong.
Each and every time..tap on the bearing race..and the
******* slides on.

How the hell does one calculate such a thingy?

This was off a pumping unit gearbox..and the people are
starting to look
at me like im an utter bumpkin...which it looks like I
am...sigh.

The ID was to have a .002" interference fit..and I
accomplished this
with no issues. I machined the OD to be .003 larger than
the ID of the
bearing race....and once the bearing race was tapped a
couple times..the
damned thing slid on with a tad bit more than hand
pressure. Easy with a
small block of wood.

Blink blink....

Anyone got any ideas/help/calcs that would fill in this
blank space in
my knowlege?

Damn Gunner, you did have a bad day. My technique with
telescoping gages is to insert
them into a clean bore at an angle so they are longer than
the ID. Lock the set screw,
then wipe once. Carefully, with a light hand measure your
telescoping gage, write down
the number.

Repeat.

Really worried, repeat again.

If you are not getting the same measurement with in the
tolerance of what will be good try
to figure out what you are doing wrong.

You don't average, the largest measurement should be the
correct one.

I have a set of old Starrett telescoping gages at work.
These are the type where only one
side telescopes. I also have a newer set of gages where
both sides telescope at home. I
can honestly say, I'd rather have only one side telescope.
I haven't shot myself in the
foot with the new ones yet but I just don't like how they
feel.

On the fit. I tend to use 0.001" per inch but I know
there are all sorts of fits and some
are a bit more aggressive.

Sorry if my post this morning shows up and turns this into
a double post.

I read enough to see they gave up on you. Oh well, that
can happen. You need to try to
fab up something similar to test your technique. This is
fairly easy chit so I understand
why you are asking for help. Heck if it is something that
is weird enough, maybe you can
save some face with them if you can explain wtf happened
and they care.

I have notchy bearings in my cross feed that I got to get
fixed. I've blown a couple
dimensions when .020" more became something else. I got
to fix it soon. Got to work this
weekend but I have the following one off. I'll put that
on my to do list.

Here's another one to watch out for: when using a boring bar
on a
quick change tool post be careful when putting the bar back
on the
toolpost after taking a measurement. It's easy to just plunk
on the tool
holder and go at it but be sure to push on the cross slide
so the slack
is on the other side of the cross slide screw thread. Make
sense? It may not
be much but enough to throw off your predicted cut.....
phil


Perhaps that what I did.

Ive got KDK on the Hardinge..and its a bit tired..though very usable.

Gunner


"A conservative who doesn't believe? in God simply doesn't pray;
a godless liberal wants no one to pray. A conservative who doesn't
like guns doesn't buy one; a liberal gun-hater wants to disarm us all.
A gay conservative has sex his own way; a gay liberal requires us all
to watch and accept his perversion and have it taught to children.
A conservative who is offended by a radio show changes the station;
an offended liberal wants it banned, prosecuted and persecuted."
Bobby XD9

On 12 Aug 2010 01:40:59 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2010-08-11, Gunner Asch wrote:
Ive made 6 pairs of spacers...between a driven shaft (both ends) and a
bearing race and each and every time, Ive gotten the OD wrong.
Each and every time..tap on the bearing race..and the ******* slides on.

How the hell does one calculate such a thingy?

This was off a pumping unit gearbox..and the people are starting to look
at me like im an utter bumpkin...which it looks like I am...sigh.

The ID was to have a .002" interference fit..and I accomplished this
with no issues. I machined the OD to be .003 larger than the ID of the
bearing race....and once the bearing race was tapped a couple times..the
damned thing slid on with a tad bit more than hand pressure. Easy with a
small block of wood.

Blink blink....

Anyone got any ideas/help/calcs that would fill in this blank space in
my knowlege?

First off -- how big is the OD? The amount of oversize for an
interference fit is a function of diameter.

According to _Machinery's Handbook_:

"Allowance for forced fits -- the allowance per inch of diameter
usually ranges from 0.001" to 0.0025", 0.0015" being a fair
average. Ordinarily the allowance per inch decreases as the
diameter increases, thus the total allowance for a diameter of 2
inches might be 0.004", whereas for a diameter of 8 inches, the
total allowance might not be over 0.009" or 0.010"

In following pages, there are formulas and tables for
calculating desired fits based on among other things the OD of the part
containing the hole to fit.

Indeed. Im going to have to take one of the Handbooks off the shelf and
out into the shop and leave it there.


This is what Ive been machineing parts for...

http://www.datinternational.ca/product.php?punits

Im going to have to get the Clausing 15" lathe running..the Hardinge
HLV-H...is way way too small for most of the work.

This suggests that it is a fairly hefty chunk of steel. So,
aside from the diameter -- are you using coolant? Without it, consider
the expansion while you are machining (from the heating). You may be
hitting the diameter when hot -- but when it cools down, it shrinks
enough to make a difference. If you don't have coolant, the solution is
to turn it to a bit oversized, go to bed, and the next morning measure
it and skim off just enough to make your intended dimension.

Coolant...soluable oil coolant. Im not a big fan of water based
coolants in Hardinge lathes..considering that they void the warranty on
a brand new Hardinge if you use waterbased.....


I installed a Axelson 20x120 lathe in their shop...but they dont have
3ph yet..or anytime soon...sigh....

Rotary converter time? How many HP does that lathe need?

15hp drive motor...20-25 HP rotary would be just fine.

$1400 on Ebay...and they keep dragging their feet..waiting for their
mechanic to finish up their generator...

Sigh...


Enjoy,
DoN.


"A conservative who doesn't believe? in God simply doesn't pray;
a godless liberal wants no one to pray. A conservative who doesn't
like guns doesn't buy one; a liberal gun-hater wants to disarm us all.
A gay conservative has sex his own way; a gay liberal requires us all
to watch and accept his perversion and have it taught to children.
A conservative who is offended by a radio show changes the station;
an offended liberal wants it banned, prosecuted and persecuted."
Bobby XD9

On 12 Aug 2010 01:57:13 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2010-08-11, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Wed, 11 Aug 2010 01:09:45 -0500, Don Foreman
wrote:

On Tue, 10 Aug 2010 21:46:38 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

Ive made 6 pairs of spacers...between a driven shaft (both ends) and a
bearing race and each and every time, Ive gotten the OD wrong.
Each and every time..tap on the bearing race..and the ******* slides on.

How the hell does one calculate such a thingy?

This was off a pumping unit gearbox..and the people are starting to look
at me like im an utter bumpkin...which it looks like I am...sigh.

The ID was to have a .002" interference fit..and I accomplished this
with no issues. I machined the OD to be .003 larger than the ID of the
bearing race....and once the bearing race was tapped a couple times..the
damned thing slid on with a tad bit more than hand pressure. Easy with a
small block of wood.

Blink blink....

[ ... ]

Enco has a hell of a sale going on bore gages right now, about 30 bux
which is about 1/3 usual price. I just got three sizes with the
money I didn't spend on smokes the past couple of weeks. They're
Chinese, but they look like they'll work very nicely. I see no reason
not to trust them to a couple of tenths since the outside mikes I'll
use to calibrate them are known to be good to a tenth.


Indeed. ID of the race was 2.667 based on the average of 10
measurements.

That does not sound right. 2-2/3" diameter in inch
measurements, or 67.7418 mm. Most bearings these days are made to
integer mm sizes -- or if inch sizes, would be something a bit more
standard -- some power of two fraction, not thirds.

68mm would be 2.6772"
67mm would be 2.6378"

I was just spewing numbers off the top of my head after a very long
night. Ill actually have to go out and check. The bar I used originally
was 2 3/16" and was only taking about .025 off the OD.

Hmm ... you're checking the telescoping gauges against a
micrometer -- but do you have standards to verify the accuracy of the
micrometer? Do you *trust* the standards? How about some gauge blocks?

Yah..I trust my Starret gauge blocks, and I trust my set of absolutely
brand new Mity gages..from 1" -12"..some of which havent had the plastic
coating removed from the tips yet.

I managed to salvage the majority of stuff from an inspection department
some years ago..including all the stuff they had bought..and ratholed.
From Mity digital 1" mics with SPC output and 5 digits to the right of
the decimal point.....to several sets of 1-12" NSK mics...a decent set
of Chicom out to 12"..and a number of cased mics up to 15"

Bunch of other stuff as well. Ive got one of the standard 7' tall by
40" wide double door Steelcase cabinets filled with all sorts of
metrology stuff.

I sold for $20 each, the 30 or more Fowler 0-1 mechanical digital mics
I had..along with some other Stuff I had far too many of.

This of course is where the dozen or so surface plates Ive had came
from..and all the **** that goes on them...G About half the plates
being As..the remainder being Bs..which Ive sold all but 3 or so of.

Ive got Accurate Stuff...I just need to be able to use it
better...sigh...



Hmm ... I what about taking an adjustable parallel of
appropriate size and adjusting it to fit properly in the bearing race,
and them measuring across diagonally opposite edges as a double-check on
the telescoping gauges?

For that matter -- I have a boxed set of slips which have one
side angled, and the other size radiused for expanding in a hole and
then measuring the diameter across the projecting part. But they don't
go up that large, unfortunately.

But still -- as I just posted in my other reply (and which you
have not had a chance to read) -- what about thermal expansion while
turning the OD? nearly 3" diameter is big enough so you could get
significant expansion if you are turning off a lot of metal. Let it
cool off a little oversized, and then finish turn it.

Did you go back and check the diameter after the bearing went on
too easily?

Good Luck,
DoN.

Ayup....it was .0000 to the diameter of the race. A ****ing perfect
fit..if it hadnt supposed to have been an interferance fit....well..not
perfect..it did have a .0001 taper ....shrug

The materials I had..sucked as well. I have some bars of whats marked
12L14 in sizes from 1.5-3"....4-6' bars

And none of them are 12L14. When one turns a 2" bar at 500 rpm..and its
it with a brand spanking new Kennemetal insert..and it throws off sparks
when trying to make a .050 cut....on a Hardinge HLV-H..something is
****ed up.


Gunner




"A conservative who doesn't believe? in God simply doesn't pray;
a godless liberal wants no one to pray. A conservative who doesn't
like guns doesn't buy one; a liberal gun-hater wants to disarm us all.
A gay conservative has sex his own way; a gay liberal requires us all
to watch and accept his perversion and have it taught to children.
A conservative who is offended by a radio show changes the station;
an offended liberal wants it banned, prosecuted and persecuted."
Bobby XD9

Buerste wrote:

"Tim Wescott" wrote in message
...
On 08/11/2010 12:36 AM, Buerste wrote:
"Gunner wrote in message
...
On Wed, 11 Aug 2010 01:57:58 -0400,
wrote:


"Gunner wrote in message
...
Ive made 6 pairs of spacers...between a driven shaft (both ends) and a
bearing race and each and every time, Ive gotten the OD wrong.
Each and every time..tap on the bearing race..and the ******* slides
on.

How the hell does one calculate such a thingy?

This was off a pumping unit gearbox..and the people are starting to
look
at me like im an utter bumpkin...which it looks like I am...sigh.

The ID was to have a .002" interference fit..and I accomplished this
with no issues. I machined the OD to be .003 larger than the ID of
the
bearing race....and once the bearing race was tapped a couple
times..the
damned thing slid on with a tad bit more than hand pressure. Easy with
a
small block of wood.

Blink blink....

This doesn't make sense. Are you measuring correctly? Is the inner
race
cracked? Or, I'm not seeing the issue, re-explain it. (I often cheat
with
some .001" brass foil.)

I know it doesnt make sense. And yes..Im measuring correctly and
machining correctly.

So what is the formula?

I like the brass foil idea. Hell..I told them that Id give it a couple
tiny shots with the TIG, so it would be removable years later when it
needed to be serviced again...no dice.

My 2 hour bill has turned into an unpaid 12 hours so far. Granted..Im
learning lots of stuff...Id like to learn how to do it properly

Gunner


Sorry dude, you're NOT measuring correctly. Telescoping gauges are very
tricky and somewhat subjective. Turn a piece of scrap until you get the
fit
you want then turn your piece to those numbers.

Is that the pro machinists advice to pro machinists, or the pro machinists
advice to pikers?

It's what I do -- that, or I leave a bit of extra length on the end of the
piece I'm turning, use that to establish the fit, then once I find it I
turn that diameter all the way down, and trim off the excess length.

This works for everything from a running fit to a light press fit (if the
piece I'm fitting to isn't bell mouthed, in which case the fit turns into
an "oh ****" press fit).

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

Do you need to implement control loops in software?
"Applied Control Theory for Embedded Systems" was written for you.
See details at http://www.wescottdesign.com/actfes/actfes.html

All the universe is a kludge!


Um, no. Only in Cleavland. ;-)

On Wed, 11 Aug 2010 19:31:48 -0500, "Greg O"
wrote:


"Tim Wescott" wrote in message
...

I stick the gauge into the hole, wiggle it around, tighten it, then wiggle
it again -- if it doesn't feel right after I tighten it, I loosen it and
try again.

Not, mind you, that I resemble an experienced machinist in any way shape
or form. Nor do I trust my ability to use a telescoping gauge to within
less than .001 or .002.


I was taught to cock the telescoping gauge in the hole, snug the clamp down,
just a bit, and rock the gauge throught the hole. Then snug the clamp nut up
the rest of the way. The gent that taught me had been a machinist for many
years and could produce pure art with a lathe and mill.

There's a lot of art and feel to the procedure you describe. Reading
about it is a very long ways from getting it right in practice. I
think Harold Vordos would agree.

Harold's clue was key: regardless of how you cock and rock, you must
check the feel. If it doesn't drag right, do it over. Sensing the
feel is the essence of accuracy, and that is only gained from
experience.

The Enco bore gages at present price are a very good deal for those
who lack the time or motivation to acquire the feel.

On 2010-08-12, Gunner Asch wrote:
On 12 Aug 2010 01:57:13 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2010-08-11, Gunner Asch wrote:

[ ... ]

Indeed. ID of the race was 2.667 based on the average of 10
measurements.

That does not sound right. 2-2/3" diameter in inch
measurements, or 67.7418 mm. Most bearings these days are made to
integer mm sizes -- or if inch sizes, would be something a bit more
standard -- some power of two fraction, not thirds.

68mm would be 2.6772"
67mm would be 2.6378"

I was just spewing numbers off the top of my head after a very long
night. Ill actually have to go out and check. The bar I used originally
was 2 3/16" and was only taking about .025 off the OD.

O.K. 55.56mm starting point, sounds like your target dimension
was 54mm -- or maybe 55mm if your 2-3/16" stock was a little oversized.
(They often are, to allow finishing to size. :-)

Hmm ... you're checking the telescoping gauges against a
micrometer -- but do you have standards to verify the accuracy of the
micrometer? Do you *trust* the standards? How about some gauge blocks?

Yah..I trust my Starret gauge blocks, and I trust my set of absolutely
brand new Mity gages..from 1" -12"..some of which havent had the plastic
coating removed from the tips yet.

O.K. For some reason, I was thinking that you were doing this
at their shop, not yours.

Hmm ... if you made them in your shop, then took them to their
shop to press on the bearings -- is there a chance that there was enough
temperature difference between where you were making and measuring the
shafts and their shop where the bearings were? That might account for
just enough dimensional change. Your micrometers were measuring sizes
at one temperature and the bearing was at another?

I managed to salvage the majority of stuff from an inspection department
some years ago..including all the stuff they had bought..and ratholed.
From Mity digital 1" mics with SPC output and 5 digits to the right of
the decimal point.....to several sets of 1-12" NSK mics...a decent set
of Chicom out to 12"..and a number of cased mics up to 15"

Nice!

Bunch of other stuff as well. Ive got one of the standard 7' tall by
40" wide double door Steelcase cabinets filled with all sorts of
metrology stuff.

Very nice.

I sold for $20 each, the 30 or more Fowler 0-1 mechanical digital mics
I had..along with some other Stuff I had far too many of.

O.K.

This of course is where the dozen or so surface plates Ive had came
from..and all the **** that goes on them...G About half the plates
being As..the remainder being Bs..which Ive sold all but 3 or so of.

Ive got Accurate Stuff...I just need to be able to use it
better...sigh...

Or perhaps remember that both sides of a fit should be measured
at the same temperature?

[ ... ]

Did you go back and check the diameter after the bearing went on
too easily?

Good Luck,
DoN.

Ayup....it was .0000 to the diameter of the race. A ****ing perfect
fit..if it hadnt supposed to have been an interferance fit....well..not
perfect..it did have a .0001 taper ....shrug

If the direction was right -- it could have made it easier to
start the bearing on. :-)

The materials I had..sucked as well. I have some bars of whats marked
12L14 in sizes from 1.5-3"....4-6' bars

And none of them are 12L14. When one turns a 2" bar at 500 rpm..and its
it with a brand spanking new Kennemetal insert..and it throws off sparks
when trying to make a .050 cut....on a Hardinge HLV-H..something is
****ed up.

Ouch! Where did you get the supposed 12L14? Could someone have
mis-labeled it to make it sell better -- especially when closing out a
shop? And are you sure that it is *all* mis-labeled?

Does it have the designation written on it -- or are you going
by color codes on the ends? The latter is dangerous, because different
metal vendors use different color codes, so you *have* to know where
they came from for the color codes to be of any use.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 13 Aug 2010 01:58:31 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2010-08-12, Gunner Asch wrote:
On 12 Aug 2010 01:57:13 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2010-08-11, Gunner Asch wrote:

[ ... ]

Indeed. ID of the race was 2.667 based on the average of 10
measurements.

That does not sound right. 2-2/3" diameter in inch
measurements, or 67.7418 mm. Most bearings these days are made to
integer mm sizes -- or if inch sizes, would be something a bit more
standard -- some power of two fraction, not thirds.

68mm would be 2.6772"
67mm would be 2.6378"

I was just spewing numbers off the top of my head after a very long
night. Ill actually have to go out and check. The bar I used originally
was 2 3/16" and was only taking about .025 off the OD.

O.K. 55.56mm starting point, sounds like your target dimension
was 54mm -- or maybe 55mm if your 2-3/16" stock was a little oversized.
(They often are, to allow finishing to size. :-)

Hmm ... you're checking the telescoping gauges against a
micrometer -- but do you have standards to verify the accuracy of the
micrometer? Do you *trust* the standards? How about some gauge blocks?

Yah..I trust my Starret gauge blocks, and I trust my set of absolutely
brand new Mity gages..from 1" -12"..some of which havent had the plastic
coating removed from the tips yet.

O.K. For some reason, I was thinking that you were doing this
at their shop, not yours.

Hmm ... if you made them in your shop, then took them to their
shop to press on the bearings -- is there a chance that there was enough
temperature difference between where you were making and measuring the
shafts and their shop where the bearings were? That might account for
just enough dimensional change. Your micrometers were measuring sizes
at one temperature and the bearing was at another?

I managed to salvage the majority of stuff from an inspection department
some years ago..including all the stuff they had bought..and ratholed.
From Mity digital 1" mics with SPC output and 5 digits to the right of
the decimal point.....to several sets of 1-12" NSK mics...a decent set
of Chicom out to 12"..and a number of cased mics up to 15"

Nice!

Bunch of other stuff as well. Ive got one of the standard 7' tall by
40" wide double door Steelcase cabinets filled with all sorts of
metrology stuff.

Very nice.

I sold for $20 each, the 30 or more Fowler 0-1 mechanical digital mics
I had..along with some other Stuff I had far too many of.

O.K.

This of course is where the dozen or so surface plates Ive had came
from..and all the **** that goes on them...G About half the plates
being As..the remainder being Bs..which Ive sold all but 3 or so of.

Ive got Accurate Stuff...I just need to be able to use it
better...sigh...

Or perhaps remember that both sides of a fit should be measured
at the same temperature?

[ ... ]

Did you go back and check the diameter after the bearing went on
too easily?

Good Luck,
DoN.

Ayup....it was .0000 to the diameter of the race. A ****ing perfect
fit..if it hadnt supposed to have been an interferance fit....well..not
perfect..it did have a .0001 taper ....shrug

If the direction was right -- it could have made it easier to
start the bearing on. :-)

The materials I had..sucked as well. I have some bars of whats marked
12L14 in sizes from 1.5-3"....4-6' bars

And none of them are 12L14. When one turns a 2" bar at 500 rpm..and its
it with a brand spanking new Kennemetal insert..and it throws off sparks
when trying to make a .050 cut....on a Hardinge HLV-H..something is
****ed up.

Ouch! Where did you get the supposed 12L14? Could someone have
mis-labeled it to make it sell better -- especially when closing out a
shop? And are you sure that it is *all* mis-labeled?

I was given about 500 lbs of rounds with lables glued to them from a
shop that was closing down. Each plainly marked 12L14. They have been
sitting in my metal storage for a number of years. So I grabbed the
closest size and cut chunks off on the bandsaw. I did think at the
time..they were cutting rather slowly..but the blade is well
used...shrug....it finally broke yesterday as it happens.

I took my hardness tester..a little gravity thingy out tonight and gave
each of them a test.

12L14 should be around C25....this stuff was up at C60or higher. First
time Ive ever burned off the end of a decent carbide insert at 600 rpm
with a .025 cut. Cut off with a parting tool was a BITCH as well. All
the way through..not just surface hardening.

Does it have the designation written on it -- or are you going
by color codes on the ends? The latter is dangerous, because different
metal vendors use different color codes, so you *have* to know where
they came from for the color codes to be of any use.

Good Luck,
DoN.

Nah..I never pay attention to color codes. As you say..they tend to be
different from supplier to supplier...shrug.

Ive a little drop hammer hardness checker...drop the weight and it
bounces upwards and you read off the scale, then look at the chart. Not
much bigger than a large felt tip marker. Its not science..but it works
well enough for me.

Gunner


"A conservative who doesn't believe? in God simply doesn't pray;
a godless liberal wants no one to pray. A conservative who doesn't
like guns doesn't buy one; a liberal gun-hater wants to disarm us all.
A gay conservative has sex his own way; a gay liberal requires us all
to watch and accept his perversion and have it taught to children.
A conservative who is offended by a radio show changes the station;
an offended liberal wants it banned, prosecuted and persecuted."
Bobby XD9

What's that Lassie? You say that Gunner Asch fell down the old
rec.crafts.metalworking mine and will die if we don't mount a rescue
by Tue, 10 Aug 2010 21:46:38 -0700:


The ID was to have a .002" interference fit..and I accomplished this
with no issues. I machined the OD to be .003 larger than the ID of the
bearing race....and once the bearing race was tapped a couple times..the
damned thing slid on with a tad bit more than hand pressure. Easy with a
small block of wood.

Are you measuring your shaft while hot after machining?

How are you measuring your bearing bore?


--

Dan H.
northshore MA.

What's that Lassie? You say that Gunner Asch fell down the old
rec.crafts.metalworking mine and will die if we don't mount a rescue
by Fri, 13 Aug 2010 05:33:02 -0700:

Does it have the designation written on it -- or are you going
by color codes on the ends? The latter is dangerous, because different
metal vendors use different color codes, so you *have* to know where
they came from for the color codes to be of any use.

Good Luck,
DoN.

Nah..I never pay attention to color codes. As you say..they tend to be
different from supplier to supplier...shrug.

Most suppliers I've seen, use color codes to indicate the level of
precision, not the alloy.
--

Dan H.
northshore MA.

On 2010-08-13, Gunner Asch wrote:
On 13 Aug 2010 01:58:31 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

[ ... ]

Does it have the designation written on it -- or are you going
by color codes on the ends? The latter is dangerous, because different
metal vendors use different color codes, so you *have* to know where
they came from for the color codes to be of any use.

Good Luck,
DoN.

Nah..I never pay attention to color codes. As you say..they tend to be
different from supplier to supplier...shrug.

Ive a little drop hammer hardness checker...drop the weight and it
bounces upwards and you read off the scale, then look at the chart. Not
much bigger than a large felt tip marker. Its not science..but it works
well enough for me.

Sounds like a Sclerometer to me.

I've got a King brand Rockwell type hardness tester instead.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Fri, 13 Aug 2010 23:38:54 GMT, (dan) wrote:

What's that Lassie? You say that Gunner Asch fell down the old
rec.crafts.metalworking mine and will die if we don't mount a rescue
by Tue, 10 Aug 2010 21:46:38 -0700:


The ID was to have a .002" interference fit..and I accomplished this
with no issues. I machined the OD to be .003 larger than the ID of the
bearing race....and once the bearing race was tapped a couple times..the
damned thing slid on with a tad bit more than hand pressure. Easy with a
small block of wood.

Are you measuring your shaft while hot after machining?
Nope. I waited while running coolant over the part. Maybe I didnt wait
long enough..but they were handleable.

How are you measuring your bearing bore?

Starrett telescoping gage set with a NSK mic, using a total of 10
measurements.

Gunner


"A conservative who doesn't believe? in God simply doesn't pray;
a godless liberal wants no one to pray. A conservative who doesn't
like guns doesn't buy one; a liberal gun-hater wants to disarm us all.
A gay conservative has sex his own way; a gay liberal requires us all
to watch and accept his perversion and have it taught to children.
A conservative who is offended by a radio show changes the station;
an offended liberal wants it banned, prosecuted and persecuted."
Bobby XD9

On Fri, 13 Aug 2010 23:58:38 GMT, (dan) wrote:

What's that Lassie? You say that Gunner Asch fell down the old
rec.crafts.metalworking mine and will die if we don't mount a rescue
by Fri, 13 Aug 2010 05:33:02 -0700:

Does it have the designation written on it -- or are you going
by color codes on the ends? The latter is dangerous, because different
metal vendors use different color codes, so you *have* to know where
they came from for the color codes to be of any use.

Good Luck,
DoN.

Nah..I never pay attention to color codes. As you say..they tend to be
different from supplier to supplier...shrug.

Most suppliers I've seen, use color codes to indicate the level of
precision, not the alloy.

Precison of bar stock?

Blink blink......

http://www.metal-stock.com/index.php...olorCodes&t=12

http://www.southerntoolsteel.com/color-codes.html

Etc etc etc

Gunner


"A conservative who doesn't believe? in God simply doesn't pray;
a godless liberal wants no one to pray. A conservative who doesn't
like guns doesn't buy one; a liberal gun-hater wants to disarm us all.
A gay conservative has sex his own way; a gay liberal requires us all
to watch and accept his perversion and have it taught to children.
A conservative who is offended by a radio show changes the station;
an offended liberal wants it banned, prosecuted and persecuted."
Bobby XD9

On 14 Aug 2010 00:28:48 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2010-08-13, Gunner Asch wrote:
On 13 Aug 2010 01:58:31 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

[ ... ]

Does it have the designation written on it -- or are you going
by color codes on the ends? The latter is dangerous, because different
metal vendors use different color codes, so you *have* to know where
they came from for the color codes to be of any use.

Good Luck,
DoN.

Nah..I never pay attention to color codes. As you say..they tend to be
different from supplier to supplier...shrug.

Ive a little drop hammer hardness checker...drop the weight and it
bounces upwards and you read off the scale, then look at the chart. Not
much bigger than a large felt tip marker. Its not science..but it works
well enough for me.

Sounds like a Sclerometer to me.

Sklero meter. Close enough. G

http://picasaweb.google.com/gunneras...69956769306386

I just gave away 350lbs of very elderly Wilson hardness tester to a guy
who needed spare parts for his. Mine had been heavily modified and then
left to rot in the back of an inspection department. I had no idea how
to use it, or what was missing, so I simply gave it away. It was missing
the indenters etc etc. It would however measure every scale Id ever
heard of, including DUROMETER.... which I thought was funny as hell.

Probably made in the mid to late 1940s



I've got a King brand Rockwell type hardness tester instead.

NICE!!

For those who havent seen one...

http://www.kingtester.com/testers.htm


Enjoy,
DoN.


"A conservative who doesn't believe? in God simply doesn't pray;
a godless liberal wants no one to pray. A conservative who doesn't
like guns doesn't buy one; a liberal gun-hater wants to disarm us all.
A gay conservative has sex his own way; a gay liberal requires us all
to watch and accept his perversion and have it taught to children.
A conservative who is offended by a radio show changes the station;
an offended liberal wants it banned, prosecuted and persecuted."
Bobby XD9

Gunner blasted out with:
The ID was to have a .002" interference fit..and I accomplished this
with no issues. I machined the OD to be .003 larger than the ID of
the
bearing race....and once the bearing race was tapped a couple
times..the
damned thing slid on with a tad bit more than hand pressure. Easy with
a
small block of wood.


This sounds quite impossible, unless you're mis-measuring something --
either the race I.D. or the O.D. of the shaft.

A two-thou interference fit is NOT going to slide with hand pressure.
You'd be lucky to press it on with a small arbor press without
chilling/heating.

A couple of things come to mind: 1) you're compressing the telescoping
gauges while mic'ing them. 2) you're turning taper.

You say you "machined the od TO BE (emphasis mine) larger than the ID of
the bearing race". You _didn't_ say, you measured it after machining and
cooling, and _determined_ it to be 0.003" larger. Sorry, but there is a
difference. And remember, even a burr or a rough finish will make that
o.d. look larger, or the i.d. smaller than it really is.

Gunner, it _can't_ be actually a 0.003" fit and slide on like you say.

LLoyd

Gunner Asch fired this volley in
:

Precison of bar stock?

Gunner, when "precision" is mentioned, we change the term from "bar stock"
to "rod". Same stuff, different "precision".

LLoyd

On Fri, 13 Aug 2010 20:37:15 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Gunner Asch fired this volley in
:

Precison of bar stock?

Gunner, when "precision" is mentioned, we change the term from "bar stock"
to "rod". Same stuff, different "precision".

LLoyd

Indeed.

Usually centerless ground before delivery.

Gunner


"A conservative who doesn't believe? in God simply doesn't pray;
a godless liberal wants no one to pray. A conservative who doesn't
like guns doesn't buy one; a liberal gun-hater wants to disarm us all.
A gay conservative has sex his own way; a gay liberal requires us all
to watch and accept his perversion and have it taught to children.
A conservative who is offended by a radio show changes the station;
an offended liberal wants it banned, prosecuted and persecuted."
Bobby XD9

On Fri, 13 Aug 2010 20:35:55 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Gunner blasted out with:
The ID was to have a .002" interference fit..and I accomplished this
with no issues. I machined the OD to be .003 larger than the ID of
the
bearing race....and once the bearing race was tapped a couple
times..the
damned thing slid on with a tad bit more than hand pressure. Easy with
a
small block of wood.


This sounds quite impossible, unless you're mis-measuring something --
either the race I.D. or the O.D. of the shaft.

A two-thou interference fit is NOT going to slide with hand pressure.
You'd be lucky to press it on with a small arbor press without
chilling/heating.

A couple of things come to mind: 1) you're compressing the telescoping
gauges while mic'ing them. 2) you're turning taper.

You say you "machined the od TO BE (emphasis mine) larger than the ID of
the bearing race". You _didn't_ say, you measured it after machining and
cooling, and _determined_ it to be 0.003" larger. Sorry, but there is a
difference. And remember, even a burr or a rough finish will make that
o.d. look larger, or the i.d. smaller than it really is.

Gunner, it _can't_ be actually a 0.003" fit and slide on like you say.

LLoyd

Of course it cant. Obviously I ****ed up somewhere along the line. Im
just not sure where....or how.

Its not my first rodeo..and I cant believe I ****ed up so many times.

Shrug...better luck next time.

Gunner


"A conservative who doesn't believe? in God simply doesn't pray;
a godless liberal wants no one to pray. A conservative who doesn't
like guns doesn't buy one; a liberal gun-hater wants to disarm us all.
A gay conservative has sex his own way; a gay liberal requires us all
to watch and accept his perversion and have it taught to children.
A conservative who is offended by a radio show changes the station;
an offended liberal wants it banned, prosecuted and persecuted."
Bobby XD9

On 2010-08-13, dan wrote:
What's that Lassie? You say that Gunner Asch fell down the old
rec.crafts.metalworking mine and will die if we don't mount a rescue
by Fri, 13 Aug 2010 05:33:02 -0700:

Does it have the designation written on it -- or are you going
by color codes on the ends? The latter is dangerous, because different
metal vendors use different color codes, so you *have* to know where
they came from for the color codes to be of any use.

Good Luck,
DoN.

Nah..I never pay attention to color codes. As you say..they tend to be
different from supplier to supplier...shrug.

Most suppliers I've seen, use color codes to indicate the level of
precision, not the alloy.

Well ... the Jorgensen steels catalog has a table in the back of
the color codes and what they mean -- and *there* they *do* identify the
alloy.

Do a Google search on:

alloy color codes

and look at what you get.

The first meaningful one is:

http://www.trident-metals.com/color.shtml

giving Trident's color codes.

This one:

http://www.southerntoolsteel.com/color-codes.html

gives a differing set of colors -- for the same function. (Compare the
differing colors used to identify 12L14 as an example.)

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 2010-08-14, Gunner Asch wrote:
On 14 Aug 2010 00:28:48 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

[ ... ]

I've got a King brand Rockwell type hardness tester instead.

NICE!!

For those who havent seen one...

http://www.kingtester.com/testers.htm

Hmm ... very different -- and they appear to no longer list the
one which I have -- which looks sort of like a red colored sewing
machine at first glance. (Pressure point is between two uprights with
the pressure wheel on the right-hand upright about where the belt drive
wheel would be on an old sewing machine. :-)

A bit too late to go back down and photograph it now. I was in
the shop all afternoon and all evening.

But when I got it (from an eBay auction, of course), they were
still able to provide me with manuals.

And it does do several Rockwell scales -- 'C' of course, I forget
what the other common one is called -- 'B' perhaps? And there are
"superficial" variants of both scales -- used for measuring case
hardness so they use less pressure to avoid partially testing the
unhardened steel below the case.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

What's that Lassie? You say that Gunner Asch fell down the old
rec.crafts.metalworking mine and will die if we don't mount a rescue
by Fri, 13 Aug 2010 18:12:35 -0700:

Precison of bar stock?

Blink blink......

Gunner

Yup. Bright green is precision rolled(-.001dia.) , red not so
much(+-.005, and out of round) and will vary over the length of the
bar. Important in a screw machine.
--

Dan H.
northshore MA.

What's that Lassie? You say that Gunner Asch fell down the old
rec.crafts.metalworking mine and will die if we don't mount a rescue
by Fri, 13 Aug 2010 18:08:47 -0700:

Are you measuring your shaft while hot after machining?
Nope. I waited while running coolant over the part. Maybe I didnt wait
long enough..but they were handleable.

How are you measuring your bearing bore?

Starrett telescoping gage set with a NSK mic, using a total of 10
measurements.

Damn Gunner. What the hell. Wouldn't you just make the second and
third one way 'too small' and see if they were just right.
I guess we all have our off days. Must have sucked to have witnesses.
--

Dan H.
northshore MA.

Gunner Asch wrote:

It would however measure every scale Id ever
heard of, including DUROMETER.... which I thought was funny as hell.

Why is that. I had to identify some urethane just a few months ago. 95a is what it
turned out to be on the Shore scale. We have a little pocket tester for that purpose.

Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

Gunner Asch wrote:

How are you measuring your bearing bore?

Starrett telescoping gage set with a NSK mic, using a total of 10
measurements.


Read that again. Are you setting your telescope gages to a mic and trying them? You set
your gages to the bore and measure with the mic.

Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 20:31:45 GMT, (dan) wrote:

What's that Lassie? You say that Gunner Asch fell down the old
rec.crafts.metalworking mine and will die if we don't mount a rescue
by Fri, 13 Aug 2010 18:12:35 -0700:

Precison of bar stock?

Blink blink......

Gunner

Yup. Bright green is precision rolled(-.001dia.) , red not so
much(+-.005, and out of round) and will vary over the length of the
bar. Important in a screw machine.


Ayup. And one pays significantly extra for precision materials/rounds

Bar stock on the other hand..is extruded or loosely rolled at the mill.

And red and green could be stainless and hastally...depending on who is
selling it G

Gunner


"A conservative who doesn't believe? in God simply doesn't pray;
a godless liberal wants no one to pray. A conservative who doesn't
like guns doesn't buy one; a liberal gun-hater wants to disarm us all.
A gay conservative has sex his own way; a gay liberal requires us all
to watch and accept his perversion and have it taught to children.
A conservative who is offended by a radio show changes the station;
an offended liberal wants it banned, prosecuted and persecuted."
Bobby XD9

On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 20:39:24 GMT, (dan) wrote:

What's that Lassie? You say that Gunner Asch fell down the old
rec.crafts.metalworking mine and will die if we don't mount a rescue
by Fri, 13 Aug 2010 18:08:47 -0700:

Are you measuring your shaft while hot after machining?
Nope. I waited while running coolant over the part. Maybe I didnt wait
long enough..but they were handleable.

How are you measuring your bearing bore?

Starrett telescoping gage set with a NSK mic, using a total of 10
measurements.

Damn Gunner. What the hell. Wouldn't you just make the second and
third one way 'too small' and see if they were just right.
I guess we all have our off days. Must have sucked to have witnesses.


Tell me about it. Blush.

It simply wasnt "my part". Now Ive pulled the end of the lathe part to
correct a stuck gear..and am having trouble putting it back together
again. Sigh....

My buddy just left, we were going to put headgaskets on the truck,
replace the head bolts (when they did the valves..they reused the
headbolts..the *******s torque to yield bolts....)...and when he picked
up the head gaskets today..they gave him the wrong year/model . And
after calling over to the supplier..45 miles away...they dont stock the
ones for my truck and had to order them. Will be there Tuesday. So Im
going to be stuck without a truck until at least Thursday. Going on 3
weeks now.

I pulled everything apart over the last week, cleaned it all up, had the
head done and so forth.

I just know a customer is going to call bright and early Monday
morning...damnit!

Gunner


"A conservative who doesn't believe? in God simply doesn't pray;
a godless liberal wants no one to pray. A conservative who doesn't
like guns doesn't buy one; a liberal gun-hater wants to disarm us all.
A gay conservative has sex his own way; a gay liberal requires us all
to watch and accept his perversion and have it taught to children.
A conservative who is offended by a radio show changes the station;
an offended liberal wants it banned, prosecuted and persecuted."
Bobby XD9

On 2010-08-14, Wes wrote:
Gunner Asch wrote:

How are you measuring your bearing bore?

Starrett telescoping gage set with a NSK mic, using a total of 10
measurements.


Read that again. Are you setting your telescope gages to a mic and trying them? You set
your gages to the bore and measure with the mic.

I think that "set" meant that he had a set of Starrett
Telescoping gauges, and was using the appropriate one and measuring the
results with a NSK micrometer.

Read it as follows -- with my additions in parens for
clarification, and the quotes to group the words together.

(I was using a) "Starrett telescoping gage set" (measured) with a NSK
mic, using a total of 10 measurements.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 17:12:28 -0400, Wes
wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:

It would however measure every scale Id ever
heard of, including DUROMETER.... which I thought was funny as hell.

Why is that. I had to identify some urethane just a few months ago. 95a is what it
turned out to be on the Shore scale. We have a little pocket tester for that purpose.

Wes

Indeed. However most metal testers wont due other than metals.

Other tools are used for softer materials.

So it was fascinating to me to see the multiude of scales on the machine


"A conservative who doesn't believe? in God simply doesn't pray;
a godless liberal wants no one to pray. A conservative who doesn't
like guns doesn't buy one; a liberal gun-hater wants to disarm us all.
A gay conservative has sex his own way; a gay liberal requires us all
to watch and accept his perversion and have it taught to children.
A conservative who is offended by a radio show changes the station;
an offended liberal wants it banned, prosecuted and persecuted."
Bobby XD9

On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 17:14:13 -0400, Wes
wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:

How are you measuring your bearing bore?

Starrett telescoping gage set with a NSK mic, using a total of 10
measurements.


Read that again. Are you setting your telescope gages to a mic and trying them? You set
your gages to the bore and measure with the mic.

Wes

Chuckle...Wes...I set the gauges to the bore and then measure...not the
reverse.

Its not my first rodeo.

Gunner


"A conservative who doesn't believe? in God simply doesn't pray;
a godless liberal wants no one to pray. A conservative who doesn't
like guns doesn't buy one; a liberal gun-hater wants to disarm us all.
A gay conservative has sex his own way; a gay liberal requires us all
to watch and accept his perversion and have it taught to children.
A conservative who is offended by a radio show changes the station;
an offended liberal wants it banned, prosecuted and persecuted."
Bobby XD9

On 15 Aug 2010 01:16:23 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2010-08-14, Wes wrote:
Gunner Asch wrote:

How are you measuring your bearing bore?

Starrett telescoping gage set with a NSK mic, using a total of 10
measurements.


Read that again. Are you setting your telescope gages to a mic and trying them? You set
your gages to the bore and measure with the mic.

I think that "set" meant that he had a set of Starrett
Telescoping gauges, and was using the appropriate one and measuring the
results with a NSK micrometer.

Read it as follows -- with my additions in parens for
clarification, and the quotes to group the words together.

(I was using a) "Starrett telescoping gage set" (measured) with a NSK
mic, using a total of 10 measurements.

Enjoy,
DoN.

Correct.

Gunner


"A conservative who doesn't believe? in God simply doesn't pray;
a godless liberal wants no one to pray. A conservative who doesn't
like guns doesn't buy one; a liberal gun-hater wants to disarm us all.
A gay conservative has sex his own way; a gay liberal requires us all
to watch and accept his perversion and have it taught to children.
A conservative who is offended by a radio show changes the station;
an offended liberal wants it banned, prosecuted and persecuted."
Bobby XD9

What's that Lassie? You say that Gunner Asch fell down the old
rec.crafts.metalworking mine and will die if we don't mount a rescue
by Sat, 14 Aug 2010 14:38:57 -0700:

Yup. Bright green is precision rolled(-.001dia.) , red not so
much(+-.005, and out of round) and will vary over the length of the
bar. Important in a screw machine.


Ayup. And one pays significantly extra for precision materials/rounds

Bar stock on the other hand..is extruded or loosely rolled at the mill.

And red and green could be stainless and hastally...depending on who is
selling it G

Exactly. Every supplier has a different color scheme. At work we get
stock from several suppliers so you don't even bother with their
colors. I usually mark the end with an engraving tool if I have
leftover stock before I put it on the rack. Won't rub off or fade
over time.
--

Dan H.
northshore MA.