I have been lookign around at used heat/air conditioners for my garage/
shop. It is not used all the time, mainly on weekends currently. It is
a 30x30x10 metal building with 2x4 walls in the inside and 2x4 trusses
on the ceiling.

I found a local heating air guy that has an 80's 3 ton unit that he
says was workign when pulled out of the house. The owner wanted to
upgrade. But, it is not a split system like I have in my house.

Is there a way to use this and it not look bad ? I mean, how would you
do the duct from the outside to the inside with a 2x4 wall?

Would this be too inefficent since it is old even though I am not in
there all the time. It does get terribly hot in there in the summer, I
am not as concerned about heat in the winter. I am in the process of
insulating currently and have no inside wall material as of yet other
than studs.

I have a 100 amp panel in my garage.

This unit is 300 bucks.

stryped wrote:
I have been looking around at used heat/air conditioners for my garage/
shop. It is not used all the time, mainly on weekends currently. It is
a 30x30x10 metal building with 2x4 walls in the inside and 2x4 trusses
on the ceiling.

I found a local heating air guy that has an 80's 3 ton unit that he
says was workign when pulled out of the house. The owner wanted to
upgrade. But, it is not a split system like I have in my house.

Is there a way to use this and it not look bad ? I mean, how would you
do the duct from the outside to the inside with a 2x4 wall?

Would this be too inefficent since it is old even though I am not in
there all the time. It does get terribly hot in there in the summer, I
am not as concerned about heat in the winter. I am in the process of
insulating currently and have no inside wall material as of yet other
than studs.

I have a 100 amp panel in my garage.

This unit is 300 bucks.

For my money (and in my 24x40 shop) a Home Depot window unit in the back
endwall works fine. Pushes cold air all the way to the far wall, no
problem. My requirements at the shop are different from my home. I'm
only there once or twice a week, and I don't want sweat pouring off me
while I work. A window unit knocks the 100 degrees 80% humidity down to
something comfortable in about 30 minutes.
They run for years, are quite efficient, and when they quit, you
just buy another for ~$300. Much cheaper in the long run.

On Apr 14, 3:23*pm, RBnDFW wrote:
stryped wrote:
I have been looking around at used heat/air conditioners for my garage/
shop. It is not used all the time, mainly on weekends currently. It is
a 30x30x10 metal building with 2x4 walls in the inside and 2x4 trusses
on the ceiling.

I found a local heating air guy that has an 80's 3 ton unit that he
says was workign when pulled out of the house. The owner wanted to
upgrade. But, it is not a split system like I have in my house.

Is there a way to use this and it not look bad ? I mean, how would you
do the duct from the outside to the inside with a 2x4 wall?

Would this be too inefficent since it is old even though I am not in
there all the time. It does get terribly hot in there in the summer, I
am not as concerned about heat in the winter. I am in the process of
insulating currently and have no inside wall material as of yet other
than studs.

I have a 100 amp panel in my garage.

This unit is 300 bucks.

For my money (and in my 24x40 shop) a Home Depot window unit in the back
endwall works fine. Pushes cold air all the way to the far wall, no
problem. My requirements at the shop are different from my home. I'm
only there once or twice a week, and I don't want sweat pouring off me
while I work. A window unit knocks the 100 degrees 80% humidity down to
something comfortable in about 30 minutes.
* * They run for years, are quite efficient, and when they quit, you
just buy another for ~$300. *Much cheaper in the long run.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Problem is I dont have a window.

stryped wrote in news:9121fe5c-3426-482a-b060-
:

I have been lookign around at used heat/air conditioners for my garage/
shop. It is not used all the time, mainly on weekends currently. It is
a 30x30x10 metal building with 2x4 walls in the inside and 2x4 trusses
on the ceiling.

I found a local heating air guy that has an 80's 3 ton unit that he
says was workign when pulled out of the house. The owner wanted to
upgrade. But, it is not a split system like I have in my house.

By "split system" are you referring to a zoned system or a system with
the compressor outside and the evaporater coils in the attic?


Is there a way to use this and it not look bad ? I mean, how would you
do the duct from the outside to the inside with a 2x4 wall?

Would this be too inefficent since it is old even though I am not in
there all the time. It does get terribly hot in there in the summer, I
am not as concerned about heat in the winter. I am in the process of
insulating currently and have no inside wall material as of yet other
than studs.

I have a 100 amp panel in my garage.

This unit is 300 bucks.


If this is, essentially, a heavy-duty window unit then there may be
several options available....

On Apr 14, 3:50*pm, "RAM³" wrote:
stryped wrote in news:9121fe5c-3426-482a-b060-
:

I have been lookign around at used heat/air conditioners for my garage/
shop. It is not used all the time, mainly on weekends currently. It is
a 30x30x10 metal building with 2x4 walls in the inside and 2x4 trusses
on the ceiling.

I found a local heating air guy that has an 80's 3 ton unit that he
says was workign when pulled out of the house. The owner wanted to
upgrade. But, it is not a split system like I have in my house.

By "split system" are you referring to a zoned system or a system with
the compressor outside and the evaporater coils in the attic?



Is there a way to use this and it not look bad ? I mean, how would you
do the duct from the outside to the inside with a 2x4 wall?

Would this be too inefficent since it is old even though I am not in
there all the time. It does get terribly hot in there in the summer, I
am not as concerned about heat in the winter. I am in the process of
insulating currently and have no inside wall material as of yet other
than studs.

I have a 100 amp panel in my garage.

This unit is 300 bucks.

If this is, essentially, a heavy-duty window unit then there may be
several options available....

This is a system where the air handler, compressor everythign sit
outside. I think they are called a "package" system. Basically the
whole thing sits outside.

stryped wrote in
:

On Apr 14, 3:50*pm, "RAM³" wrote:
stryped wrote in news:9121fe5c-3426-482a-b060-
:

I have been lookign around at used heat/air conditioners for my
garage/ shop. It is not used all the time, mainly on weekends
currently. It is a 30x30x10 metal building with 2x4 walls in the
inside and 2x4 trusses on the ceiling.

I found a local heating air guy that has an 80's 3 ton unit that he
says was workign when pulled out of the house. The owner wanted to
upgrade. But, it is not a split system like I have in my house.

By "split system" are you referring to a zoned system or a system
with the compressor outside and the evaporater coils in the attic?



Is there a way to use this and it not look bad ? I mean, how would
you do the duct from the outside to the inside with a 2x4 wall?

Would this be too inefficent since it is old even though I am not
in there all the time. It does get terribly hot in there in the
summer, I am not as concerned about heat in the winter. I am in the
process of insulating currently and have no inside wall material as
of yet other than studs.

I have a 100 amp panel in my garage.

This unit is 300 bucks.

If this is, essentially, a heavy-duty window unit then there may be
several options available....

This is a system where the air handler, compressor everythign sit
outside. I think they are called a "package" system. Basically the
whole thing sits outside.


If the system calls for ducting, simply box in the ducting on the back of
the building and run it as close to the peak of the roof as possible for
maximum cooling effect.

stryped wrote in news:b4a1c195-7cdd-4fbc-836a-
:


Problem is I dont have a window.

An 8' 2x4, some nails, a saw, and a hammer can supply you with an
appropriate opening.

Or is this a rented building?

Just off the top of my head. A three ton system from the
eighties ought to draw about 15 amps, at 240 volts. Some
where along in that range.

Three tons should cool that shop in a hurry, and only have
to run now and again. The humidity control won't be great,
but it will be cooler.

You'd have to put the unit outdoors, and cut some holes in
the wall for the ducts. One option is to run a supply air
duct along the ceiling, and use a grille in the wall for
return air.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"stryped" wrote in message
...
I have been lookign around at used heat/air conditioners for
my garage/
shop. It is not used all the time, mainly on weekends
currently. It is
a 30x30x10 metal building with 2x4 walls in the inside and
2x4 trusses
on the ceiling.

I found a local heating air guy that has an 80's 3 ton unit
that he
says was workign when pulled out of the house. The owner
wanted to
upgrade. But, it is not a split system like I have in my
house.

Is there a way to use this and it not look bad ? I mean, how
would you
do the duct from the outside to the inside with a 2x4 wall?

Would this be too inefficent since it is old even though I
am not in
there all the time. It does get terribly hot in there in the
summer, I
am not as concerned about heat in the winter. I am in the
process of
insulating currently and have no inside wall material as of
yet other
than studs.

I have a 100 amp panel in my garage.

This unit is 300 bucks.

"Sawzall".

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"stryped" wrote in message
...

Problem is I dont have a window.

Inside / outside.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"RAM³" wrote in message
. 10...


By "split system" are you referring to a zoned system or a
system with
the compressor outside and the evaporater coils in the
attic?

I use a 24 inch wall mounted industrial fan and no air
conditioning. It works fine for me. I wrap a towel around my head on
hot days and can work in 100 degree temp all day long.

i

stryped wrote:
On Apr 14, 3:23 pm, RBnDFW wrote:
stryped wrote:
I have been looking around at used heat/air conditioners for my garage/
shop. It is not used all the time, mainly on weekends currently. It is
a 30x30x10 metal building with 2x4 walls in the inside and 2x4 trusses
on the ceiling.
I found a local heating air guy that has an 80's 3 ton unit that he
says was workign when pulled out of the house. The owner wanted to
upgrade. But, it is not a split system like I have in my house.
Is there a way to use this and it not look bad ? I mean, how would you
do the duct from the outside to the inside with a 2x4 wall?
Would this be too inefficent since it is old even though I am not in
there all the time. It does get terribly hot in there in the summer, I
am not as concerned about heat in the winter. I am in the process of
insulating currently and have no inside wall material as of yet other
than studs.
I have a 100 amp panel in my garage.
This unit is 300 bucks.
For my money (and in my 24x40 shop) a Home Depot window unit in the back
endwall works fine. Pushes cold air all the way to the far wall, no
problem. My requirements at the shop are different from my home. I'm
only there once or twice a week, and I don't want sweat pouring off me
while I work. A window unit knocks the 100 degrees 80% humidity down to
something comfortable in about 30 minutes.
They run for years, are quite efficient, and when they quit, you
just buy another for ~$300. Much cheaper in the long run.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Problem is I dont have a window.

Nor did I

stryped wrote:
On Apr 14, 3:23 pm, RBnDFW wrote:
stryped wrote:
I have been looking around at used heat/air conditioners for my garage/
shop. It is not used all the time, mainly on weekends currently. It is
a 30x30x10 metal building with 2x4 walls in the inside and 2x4 trusses
on the ceiling.
I found a local heating air guy that has an 80's 3 ton unit that he
says was workign when pulled out of the house. The owner wanted to
upgrade. But, it is not a split system like I have in my house.
Is there a way to use this and it not look bad ? I mean, how would you
do the duct from the outside to the inside with a 2x4 wall?
Would this be too inefficent since it is old even though I am not in
there all the time. It does get terribly hot in there in the summer, I
am not as concerned about heat in the winter. I am in the process of
insulating currently and have no inside wall material as of yet other
than studs.
I have a 100 amp panel in my garage.
This unit is 300 bucks.

Hunt up one of the units like they use in motels with heat and A/C in
one unit. That's what I have. Works real well.

--
Steve W.
(\___/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")

stryped wrote:

This is a system where the air handler, compressor everythign sit
outside. I think they are called a "package" system. Basically the
whole thing sits outside.


They are made for 'Mobile Homes'.


--
Lead free solder is Belgium's version of 'Hold my beer and watch this!'

On Wed, 14 Apr 2010 13:32:47 -0700 (PDT), stryped
wrote:

On Apr 14, 3:23*pm, RBnDFW wrote:
stryped wrote:
I have been looking around at used heat/air conditioners for my garage/
shop. It is not used all the time, mainly on weekends currently. It is
a 30x30x10 metal building with 2x4 walls in the inside and 2x4 trusses
on the ceiling.

I found a local heating air guy that has an 80's 3 ton unit that he
says was workign when pulled out of the house. The owner wanted to
upgrade. But, it is not a split system like I have in my house.

Is there a way to use this and it not look bad ? I mean, how would you
do the duct from the outside to the inside with a 2x4 wall?

Would this be too inefficent since it is old even though I am not in
there all the time. It does get terribly hot in there in the summer, I
am not as concerned about heat in the winter. I am in the process of
insulating currently and have no inside wall material as of yet other
than studs.

I have a 100 amp panel in my garage.

This unit is 300 bucks.

For my money (and in my 24x40 shop) a Home Depot window unit in the back
endwall works fine. Pushes cold air all the way to the far wall, no
problem. My requirements at the shop are different from my home. I'm
only there once or twice a week, and I don't want sweat pouring off me
while I work. A window unit knocks the 100 degrees 80% humidity down to
something comfortable in about 30 minutes.
* * They run for years, are quite efficient, and when they quit, you
just buy another for ~$300. *Much cheaper in the long run.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Problem is I dont have a window.


Then you simply cut a hole in the wall in some place that wont interfer
with work benches etc etc..frame it, and install the AC

Gunner, who lives in the desert and has no AC in his shop. Yet.



"First Law of Leftist Debate
The more you present a leftist with factual evidence
that is counter to his preconceived world view and the
more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without
losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot,
homophobe approaches infinity.

This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned
race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to
the subject." Grey Ghost

Gunner Asch wrote:

Gunner, who lives in the desert and has no AC in his shop. Yet.


Don't pull a 'Wylie Coyote' and try cooling it with a block of dry
ice and a big fan. ;-)


--
Lead free solder is Belgium's version of 'Hold my beer and watch this!'

On Thu, 15 Apr 2010 00:15:31 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Gunner Asch wrote:

Gunner, who lives in the desert and has no AC in his shop. Yet.


Don't pull a 'Wylie Coyote' and try cooling it with a block of dry
ice and a big fan. ;-)


Crom no! I went to a party last summer where they had put out buckets
filled with dry ice..and people were falling down the stairs between
the house and the swimming pool all night long because of the fog hiding
the stairs.

Gunner


"First Law of Leftist Debate
The more you present a leftist with factual evidence
that is counter to his preconceived world view and the
more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without
losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot,
homophobe approaches infinity.

This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned
race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to
the subject." Grey Ghost

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Wed, 14 Apr 2010 13:32:47 -0700 (PDT), stryped
wrote:

On Apr 14, 3:23 pm, RBnDFW wrote:
stryped wrote:
I have been looking around at used heat/air conditioners for my garage/
shop. It is not used all the time, mainly on weekends currently. It is
a 30x30x10 metal building with 2x4 walls in the inside and 2x4 trusses
on the ceiling.
I found a local heating air guy that has an 80's 3 ton unit that he
says was workign when pulled out of the house. The owner wanted to
upgrade. But, it is not a split system like I have in my house.
Is there a way to use this and it not look bad ? I mean, how would you
do the duct from the outside to the inside with a 2x4 wall?
Would this be too inefficent since it is old even though I am not in
there all the time. It does get terribly hot in there in the summer, I
am not as concerned about heat in the winter. I am in the process of
insulating currently and have no inside wall material as of yet other
than studs.
I have a 100 amp panel in my garage.
This unit is 300 bucks.
For my money (and in my 24x40 shop) a Home Depot window unit in the back
endwall works fine. Pushes cold air all the way to the far wall, no
problem. My requirements at the shop are different from my home. I'm
only there once or twice a week, and I don't want sweat pouring off me
while I work. A window unit knocks the 100 degrees 80% humidity down to
something comfortable in about 30 minutes.
They run for years, are quite efficient, and when they quit, you
just buy another for ~$300. Much cheaper in the long run.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -
Problem is I dont have a window.


Then you simply cut a hole in the wall in some place that wont interfer
with work benches etc etc..frame it, and install the AC

Gunner, who lives in the desert and has no AC in his shop. Yet.



"First Law of Leftist Debate
The more you present a leftist with factual evidence
that is counter to his preconceived world view and the
more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without
losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot,
homophobe approaches infinity.

This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned
race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to
the subject." Grey Ghost

Yep. Best spot is overhead, high as possible, for circulation as well as
security.

Gunner Asch wrote:

On Thu, 15 Apr 2010 00:15:31 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Gunner Asch wrote:

Gunner, who lives in the desert and has no AC in his shop. Yet.


Don't pull a 'Wylie Coyote' and try cooling it with a block of dry
ice and a big fan. ;-)

Crom no! I went to a party last summer where they had put out buckets
filled with dry ice..and people were falling down the stairs between
the house and the swimming pool all night long because of the fog hiding
the stairs.


It sounds like they were trying for the group discount on Darwin
Awards.


--
Lead free solder is Belgium's version of 'Hold my beer and watch this!'

On Thu, 15 Apr 2010 19:28:26 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Gunner Asch wrote:

On Thu, 15 Apr 2010 00:15:31 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Gunner Asch wrote:

Gunner, who lives in the desert and has no AC in his shop. Yet.


Don't pull a 'Wylie Coyote' and try cooling it with a block of dry
ice and a big fan. ;-)

Crom no! I went to a party last summer where they had put out buckets
filled with dry ice..and people were falling down the stairs between
the house and the swimming pool all night long because of the fog hiding
the stairs.


It sounds like they were trying for the group discount on Darwin
Awards.


It was a very COOL effect..but it was semi-formal..and odd sized
invisible concrete steps and high heels didnt seem to mesh very well.

Gunner


"First Law of Leftist Debate
The more you present a leftist with factual evidence
that is counter to his preconceived world view and the
more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without
losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot,
homophobe approaches infinity.

This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned
race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to
the subject." Grey Ghost

"Michael A. Terrell" wrote in message
...

stryped wrote:

This is a system where the air handler, compressor everythign sit
outside. I think they are called a "package" system. Basically the
whole thing sits outside.


They are made for 'Mobile Homes'.


They are not specifically for mobile homes. You see them alot in southern
states, on typical framed homes, also they are very simular to commercial
roof top units.
As to the OP. Set it on the ground, and cut a couple holes for supply and
return duct through the wall. as for the $300 price tag, it seems steep to
me. Maybe you can get the seller to make a bit of duct work to get through
the wall for the same price.
Greg

On Apr 15, 9:49*pm, "Greg O" wrote:
"Michael A. Terrell" wrote in ...



stryped wrote:

This is a system where the air handler, compressor everythign sit
outside. I think they are called a "package" system. Basically the
whole thing sits outside.

* They are made for 'Mobile Homes'.

They are not specifically for mobile homes. You see them alot in southern
states, on typical framed homes, also they are very simular to commercial
roof top units.
As to the OP. Set it on the ground, and cut a couple holes for supply and
return duct through the wall. as for the $300 price tag, it seems steep to
me. Maybe you can get the seller to make a bit of duct work to get through
the wall for the same price.
Greg

I found a 2005 Bryant package unit for 500 delivered to me.

I am still having trouble invisioning how the dict would run from the
unit.

"stryped" wrote in message
...

I found a 2005 Bryant package unit for 500 delivered to me.

I am still having trouble invisioning how the dict would run from the
unit.

Post a model number or a link, if it is the typical packaged unit the all of
it sits outside there will be places on the unit to connect supply and
return air ducts.
Greg

On Fri, 16 Apr 2010 05:13:02 -0700 (PDT), stryped
wrote:

On Apr 15, 9:49*pm, "Greg O" wrote:
"Michael A. Terrell" wrote in ...



stryped wrote:

This is a system where the air handler, compressor everythign sit
outside. I think they are called a "package" system. Basically the
whole thing sits outside.

* They are made for 'Mobile Homes'.

They are not specifically for mobile homes. You see them alot in southern
states, on typical framed homes, also they are very simular to commercial
roof top units.
As to the OP. Set it on the ground, and cut a couple holes for supply and
return duct through the wall. as for the $300 price tag, it seems steep to
me. Maybe you can get the seller to make a bit of duct work to get through
the wall for the same price.
Greg

I found a 2005 Bryant package unit for 500 delivered to me.

I am still having trouble invisioning how the dict would run from the
unit.
Hasn't anyone heard of nude metalworking?
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

Gunner Asch wrote:

On Thu, 15 Apr 2010 19:28:26 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Gunner Asch wrote:

On Thu, 15 Apr 2010 00:15:31 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Gunner Asch wrote:

Gunner, who lives in the desert and has no AC in his shop. Yet.


Don't pull a 'Wylie Coyote' and try cooling it with a block of dry
ice and a big fan. ;-)

Crom no! I went to a party last summer where they had put out buckets
filled with dry ice..and people were falling down the stairs between
the house and the swimming pool all night long because of the fog hiding
the stairs.


It sounds like they were trying for the group discount on Darwin
Awards.

It was a very COOL effect..but it was semi-formal..and odd sized
invisible concrete steps and high heels didnt seem to mesh very well.


Mesh? They just couldn't get it into gear? ;-)


--
Lead free solder is Belgium's version of 'Hold my beer and watch this!'

On Sat, 17 Apr 2010 00:58:08 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Gunner Asch wrote:

On Thu, 15 Apr 2010 19:28:26 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Gunner Asch wrote:

On Thu, 15 Apr 2010 00:15:31 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Gunner Asch wrote:

Gunner, who lives in the desert and has no AC in his shop. Yet.


Don't pull a 'Wylie Coyote' and try cooling it with a block of dry
ice and a big fan. ;-)

Crom no! I went to a party last summer where they had put out buckets
filled with dry ice..and people were falling down the stairs between
the house and the swimming pool all night long because of the fog hiding
the stairs.


It sounds like they were trying for the group discount on Darwin
Awards.

It was a very COOL effect..but it was semi-formal..and odd sized
invisible concrete steps and high heels didnt seem to mesh very well.


Mesh? They just couldn't get it into gear? ;-)


Watching well dressed women falling down concrete steps covered by fog
was a bit...scary.

Gunner


"First Law of Leftist Debate
The more you present a leftist with factual evidence
that is counter to his preconceived world view and the
more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without
losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot,
homophobe approaches infinity.

This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned
race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to
the subject." Grey Ghost

Gunner Asch wrote:

Watching well dressed women falling down concrete steps covered by fog
was a bit...scary.


Yes, if they aren't drunk politicians.


--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.

On 4/16/2010 5:09 PM, Gerald Miller wrote:

(...)

Hasn't anyone heard of nude metalworking?

OH! That's what they mean by 'Brismatic'!

--Winston

On Sat, 17 Apr 2010 23:13:09 -0700, Winston
wrote:

On 4/16/2010 5:09 PM, Gerald Miller wrote:

(...)

Hasn't anyone heard of nude metalworking?

OH! That's what they mean by 'Brismatic'!

--Winston


http://images.tribe.net/tribe/upload...7-7e0e1165bed1





"First Law of Leftist Debate
The more you present a leftist with factual evidence
that is counter to his preconceived world view and the
more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without
losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot,
homophobe approaches infinity.

This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned
race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to
the subject." Grey Ghost

Greg O wrote:

"Michael A. Terrell" wrote in message
...

stryped wrote:

This is a system where the air handler, compressor everythign sit
outside. I think they are called a "package" system. Basically the
whole thing sits outside.


They are made for 'Mobile Homes'.


They are not specifically for mobile homes. You see them alot in southern
states, on typical framed homes, also they are very simular to commercial
roof top units.
As to the OP. Set it on the ground, and cut a couple holes for supply and
return duct through the wall. as for the $300 price tag, it seems steep to
me. Maybe you can get the seller to make a bit of duct work to get through
the wall for the same price.


I live in a very 'Southern State' and what they advertise as package
units around here are one piece systems with flimsy flex duct that runs
under a mobile home. I have never seen one of these used anywhere else.
They are too easy to drag away from a building, and would make it too
easy to B&E a structure.

The one piece they use on other structures were referred to as
Modular, since they are used in modular, portable classrooms or office
buildings so they can be hauled in and set up in a hurry. They simply
bolt to one of the end walls of the center modules, and are wired into
that section. That way nothing is sticking out when they are being
moved down a highway.



Greg


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Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.

"Michael A. Terrell" wrote in message
m...


They are not specifically for mobile homes. You see them alot in southern
states, on typical framed homes, also they are very simular to commercial
roof top units.
As to the OP. Set it on the ground, and cut a couple holes for supply and
return duct through the wall. as for the $300 price tag, it seems steep
to
me. Maybe you can get the seller to make a bit of duct work to get
through
the wall for the same price.


I live in a very 'Southern State' and what they advertise as package
units around here are one piece systems with flimsy flex duct that runs
under a mobile home. I have never seen one of these used anywhere else.
They are too easy to drag away from a building, and would make it too
easy to B&E a structure.

The one piece they use on other structures were referred to as
Modular, since they are used in modular, portable classrooms or office
buildings so they can be hauled in and set up in a hurry. They simply
bolt to one of the end walls of the center modules, and are wired into
that section. That way nothing is sticking out when they are being
moved down a highway.

Well, I travel to Tennesse every summer and I see homes of all types with
package units sitting on the ground beside the home. Last summer I was down
in Mississippi and saw them all over too.
I do HVAC work for a living, so I know what I am seeing! You must not be
looking hard enough!
Greg

Greg O wrote:

"Michael A. Terrell" wrote in message
m...


They are not specifically for mobile homes. You see them alot in southern
states, on typical framed homes, also they are very simular to commercial
roof top units.
As to the OP. Set it on the ground, and cut a couple holes for supply and
return duct through the wall. as for the $300 price tag, it seems steep
to
me. Maybe you can get the seller to make a bit of duct work to get
through
the wall for the same price.


I live in a very 'Southern State' and what they advertise as package
units around here are one piece systems with flimsy flex duct that runs
under a mobile home. I have never seen one of these used anywhere else.
They are too easy to drag away from a building, and would make it too
easy to B&E a structure.

The one piece they use on other structures were referred to as
Modular, since they are used in modular, portable classrooms or office
buildings so they can be hauled in and set up in a hurry. They simply
bolt to one of the end walls of the center modules, and are wired into
that section. That way nothing is sticking out when they are being
moved down a highway.

Well, I travel to Tennesse every summer and I see homes of all types with
package units sitting on the ground beside the home. Last summer I was down
in Mississippi and saw them all over too.
I do HVAC work for a living, so I know what I am seeing! You must not be
looking hard enough!


Or you're seeing a lot of crappy work done by the trades.


--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.