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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Stuck BOSS...
I have a BOSS with the micrometer locknut stuck at the bottomed out zero position. So far Kroil has not released it, nor has considerable torque applied from channel locks via some 1/8" hard rubber to protect the knurl. Suggestions? |
#2
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Stuck BOSS...
On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 14:43:19 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote: I have a BOSS with the micrometer locknut stuck at the bottomed out zero position. So far Kroil has not released it, nor has considerable torque applied from channel locks via some 1/8" hard rubber to protect the knurl. Suggestions? I cant remember if they are right or left handed threads. Have you tried both ways? Firing lead bullets through it? Gunner "Aren't cats Libertarian? They just want to be left alone. I think our dog is a Democrat, as he is always looking for a handout" Unknown Usnet Poster Heh, heh, I'm pretty sure my dog is a liberal - he has no balls. Keyton |
#3
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Stuck BOSS...
Gunner Asch wrote: On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 14:43:19 -0600, "Pete C." wrote: I have a BOSS with the micrometer locknut stuck at the bottomed out zero position. So far Kroil has not released it, nor has considerable torque applied from channel locks via some 1/8" hard rubber to protect the knurl. Suggestions? I cant remember if they are right or left handed threads. Have you tried both ways? They are normal right hand type threads. The front brake / weight section unscrews ok, just the back locknut is... er... locked at the zero position. The instructions say to bottom it when setting the calibration of the number ring, so it's certainly intended to be bottomed out and not seize. Firing lead bullets through it? Er, not in my office. I have applied plenty of Kroil, as well as some mild heat with a hair dryer. |
#4
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Stuck BOSS...
On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 19:56:17 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote: Gunner Asch wrote: On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 14:43:19 -0600, "Pete C." wrote: I have a BOSS with the micrometer locknut stuck at the bottomed out zero position. So far Kroil has not released it, nor has considerable torque applied from channel locks via some 1/8" hard rubber to protect the knurl. Suggestions? I cant remember if they are right or left handed threads. Have you tried both ways? They are normal right hand type threads. The front brake / weight section unscrews ok, just the back locknut is... er... locked at the zero position. The instructions say to bottom it when setting the calibration of the number ring, so it's certainly intended to be bottomed out and not seize. Firing lead bullets through it? Er, not in my office. I have applied plenty of Kroil, as well as some mild heat with a hair dryer. We are talking about a BOSS barrel tuning device on the end of a rifle barrel, right? Gunner "Aren't cats Libertarian? They just want to be left alone. I think our dog is a Democrat, as he is always looking for a handout" Unknown Usnet Poster Heh, heh, I'm pretty sure my dog is a liberal - he has no balls. Keyton |
#5
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Stuck BOSS...
Gunner Asch wrote: On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 19:56:17 -0600, "Pete C." wrote: Gunner Asch wrote: On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 14:43:19 -0600, "Pete C." wrote: I have a BOSS with the micrometer locknut stuck at the bottomed out zero position. So far Kroil has not released it, nor has considerable torque applied from channel locks via some 1/8" hard rubber to protect the knurl. Suggestions? I cant remember if they are right or left handed threads. Have you tried both ways? They are normal right hand type threads. The front brake / weight section unscrews ok, just the back locknut is... er... locked at the zero position. The instructions say to bottom it when setting the calibration of the number ring, so it's certainly intended to be bottomed out and not seize. Firing lead bullets through it? Er, not in my office. I have applied plenty of Kroil, as well as some mild heat with a hair dryer. We are talking about a BOSS barrel tuning device on the end of a rifle barrel, right? Yes, on a BAR Safari Mk2. It is metal, and rapidly becoming a metalworking project to fix it. May end up wrecking the locknut to get it off and having to buy a replacement. |
#6
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Stuck BOSS...
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 08:11:42 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote: Gunner Asch wrote: On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 19:56:17 -0600, "Pete C." wrote: Gunner Asch wrote: On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 14:43:19 -0600, "Pete C." wrote: I have a BOSS with the micrometer locknut stuck at the bottomed out zero position. So far Kroil has not released it, nor has considerable torque applied from channel locks via some 1/8" hard rubber to protect the knurl. Suggestions? I cant remember if they are right or left handed threads. Have you tried both ways? They are normal right hand type threads. The front brake / weight section unscrews ok, just the back locknut is... er... locked at the zero position. The instructions say to bottom it when setting the calibration of the number ring, so it's certainly intended to be bottomed out and not seize. Firing lead bullets through it? Er, not in my office. I have applied plenty of Kroil, as well as some mild heat with a hair dryer. We are talking about a BOSS barrel tuning device on the end of a rifle barrel, right? Yes, on a BAR Safari Mk2. It is metal, and rapidly becoming a metalworking project to fix it. May end up wrecking the locknut to get it off and having to buy a replacement. Ok. First thing you do is go to the Autozone and pick up a can of PBlaster and hose it all down really well and let it set (barrel down) over a rag or in a coffee can for a day or so. Then take a heat gun and slap some heat to it. Hair dryer will not get hot enough. Then try it while its nice and hot. And be sure you turn it in the right direction. A little back and forth may help. If it comes loose, remove it after recording your settings, make a line/scratch or something..then clean it up, and slopper some decent high temp grease on the threads and screw it back together. Antiseize compound is good too. The silver stuff at the Zone works well for this. Been shooting corrosive primers by any chance? Wolf? I cannot recall if its right or left hand thread. Check it out with a magnifying glass if you can or read your manual..it might say. http://media.browning.com/pdf/om/boss_02380_om_s.pdf That may help. One assumes that you got the part with the holes.. off? Gunner "Aren't cats Libertarian? They just want to be left alone. I think our dog is a Democrat, as he is always looking for a handout" Unknown Usnet Poster Heh, heh, I'm pretty sure my dog is a liberal - he has no balls. Keyton |
#7
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Stuck BOSS...
Gunner Asch wrote: On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 19:56:17 -0600, "Pete C." wrote: Gunner Asch wrote: On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 14:43:19 -0600, "Pete C." wrote: I have a BOSS with the micrometer locknut stuck at the bottomed out zero position. So far Kroil has not released it, nor has considerable torque applied from channel locks via some 1/8" hard rubber to protect the knurl. Suggestions? I cant remember if they are right or left handed threads. Have you tried both ways? They are normal right hand type threads. The front brake / weight section unscrews ok, just the back locknut is... er... locked at the zero position. The instructions say to bottom it when setting the calibration of the number ring, so it's certainly intended to be bottomed out and not seize. Firing lead bullets through it? Er, not in my office. I have applied plenty of Kroil, as well as some mild heat with a hair dryer. We are talking about a BOSS barrel tuning device on the end of a rifle barrel, right? Yes, on a BAR Mk2 Safari. It is metal, and rapidly becoming a metalworking project to fix it. May end up wrecking the locknut to get it off and having to buy a replacement. And of course Browning is closed due to the holiday. |
#8
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Stuck BOSS...
Gunner Asch wrote:
On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 19:56:17 -0600, "Pete C." wrote: Gunner Asch wrote: On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 14:43:19 -0600, "Pete C." wrote: I have a BOSS with the micrometer locknut stuck at the bottomed out zero position. So far Kroil has not released it, nor has considerable torque applied from channel locks via some 1/8" hard rubber to protect the knurl. Suggestions? I cant remember if they are right or left handed threads. Have you tried both ways? They are normal right hand type threads. The front brake / weight section unscrews ok, just the back locknut is... er... locked at the zero position. The instructions say to bottom it when setting the calibration of the number ring, so it's certainly intended to be bottomed out and not seize. Firing lead bullets through it? Er, not in my office. I have applied plenty of Kroil, as well as some mild heat with a hair dryer. We are talking about a BOSS barrel tuning device on the end of a rifle barrel, right? Yes, on a BAR mk2 Safari. It's metal and this is rapidly becoming a metalworking project to remove it. I may end up destroying the locknut to get it off and having to get a new one. Of course Browning is closed for the holiday too |
#9
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Stuck BOSS...
Gunner Asch wrote: On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 19:56:17 -0600, "Pete C." wrote: Gunner Asch wrote: On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 14:43:19 -0600, "Pete C." wrote: I have a BOSS with the micrometer locknut stuck at the bottomed out zero position. So far Kroil has not released it, nor has considerable torque applied from channel locks via some 1/8" hard rubber to protect the knurl. Suggestions? I cant remember if they are right or left handed threads. Have you tried both ways? They are normal right hand type threads. The front brake / weight section unscrews ok, just the back locknut is... er... locked at the zero position. The instructions say to bottom it when setting the calibration of the number ring, so it's certainly intended to be bottomed out and not seize. Firing lead bullets through it? Er, not in my office. I have applied plenty of Kroil, as well as some mild heat with a hair dryer. We are talking about a BOSS barrel tuning device on the end of a rifle barrel, right? Yes, on a BAR Mk2 Safari. It is metal, and this is rapidly becoming a metalworking project to get it off. I may end up having to destroy the locknut to get it off and order a new one. Browning is closed for the holiday too |
#10
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Stuck BOSS...
Gunner Asch wrote:
On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 19:56:17 -0600, "Pete C." wrote: Gunner Asch wrote: On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 14:43:19 -0600, "Pete C." wrote: I have a BOSS with the micrometer locknut stuck at the bottomed out zero position. So far Kroil has not released it, nor has considerable torque applied from channel locks via some 1/8" hard rubber to protect the knurl. Suggestions? I cant remember if they are right or left handed threads. Have you tried both ways? They are normal right hand type threads. The front brake / weight section unscrews ok, just the back locknut is... er... locked at the zero position. The instructions say to bottom it when setting the calibration of the number ring, so it's certainly intended to be bottomed out and not seize. Firing lead bullets through it? Er, not in my office. I have applied plenty of Kroil, as well as some mild heat with a hair dryer. We are talking about a BOSS barrel tuning device on the end of a rifle barrel, right? Yes, on a BAR mk2 Safari. It is metal, and this is rapidly becoming a metalworking project to get it off. I may end up having to destroy the locknut to get it off and order a new one. Browning is closed for the holiday too |
#11
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Stuck BOSS...
PeteC wrote:
Gunner Asch wrote: On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 19:56:17 -0600, "Pete C." wrote: Gunner Asch wrote: On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 14:43:19 -0600, "Pete C." wrote: I have a BOSS with the micrometer locknut stuck at the bottomed out zero position. So far Kroil has not released it, nor has considerable torque applied from channel locks via some 1/8" hard rubber to protect the knurl. Suggestions? I cant remember if they are right or left handed threads. Have you tried both ways? They are normal right hand type threads. The front brake / weight section unscrews ok, just the back locknut is... er... locked at the zero position. The instructions say to bottom it when setting the calibration of the number ring, so it's certainly intended to be bottomed out and not seize. Firing lead bullets through it? Er, not in my office. I have applied plenty of Kroil, as well as some mild heat with a hair dryer. We are talking about a BOSS barrel tuning device on the end of a rifle barrel, right? Yes, on a BAR mk2 Safari. It is metal, and this is rapidly becoming a metalworking project to get it off. I may end up having to destroy the locknut to get it off and order a new one. Browning is closed for the holiday too Bloody hell, sorry about all the duplicates, news server problems... |
#12
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Stuck BOSS...
Gunner Asch wrote:
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 08:11:42 -0600, "Pete C." wrote: Gunner Asch wrote: On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 19:56:17 -0600, "Pete C." wrote: Gunner Asch wrote: On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 14:43:19 -0600, "Pete C." wrote: I have a BOSS with the micrometer locknut stuck at the bottomed out zero position. So far Kroil has not released it, nor has considerable torque applied from channel locks via some 1/8" hard rubber to protect the knurl. Suggestions? I cant remember if they are right or left handed threads. Have you tried both ways? They are normal right hand type threads. The front brake / weight section unscrews ok, just the back locknut is... er... locked at the zero position. The instructions say to bottom it when setting the calibration of the number ring, so it's certainly intended to be bottomed out and not seize. Firing lead bullets through it? Er, not in my office. I have applied plenty of Kroil, as well as some mild heat with a hair dryer. We are talking about a BOSS barrel tuning device on the end of a rifle barrel, right? Yes, on a BAR Safari Mk2. It is metal, and rapidly becoming a metalworking project to fix it. May end up wrecking the locknut to get it off and having to buy a replacement. Ok. First thing you do is go to the Autozone and pick up a can of PBlaster and hose it all down really well and let it set (barrel down) over a rag or in a coffee can for a day or so. It's soaked with Kroil overnight. Then take a heat gun and slap some heat to it. Hair dryer will not get hot enough. I used the hair dryer because I didn't want to get it too hot. I can try again with a heat gun and watch it with an IR thermometer. Then try it while its nice and hot. And be sure you turn it in the right direction. A little back and forth may help. It's definitely a normal right hand type thread. There is just one threaded section and the front brake / weight portion unscrewed just fine. If it comes loose, remove it after recording your settings, make a line/scratch or something.. It has the micrometer markings so you can record your settings. Indeed the instructions have you bottom out the locknut and adjust the number ring on the locknut to calibrate it, and that is where it is stuck, bottomed out. There are no settings to record as this is a brand new gun and next week will be my first opportunity to get out and sight it in. then clean it up, and slopper some decent high temp grease on the threads and screw it back together. Antiseize compound is good too. The silver stuff at the Zone works well for this. I've got anti-sieze for when I get it apart, but I shouldn't need it on a brand new gun that's just sat in the safe for a few months. Been shooting corrosive primers by any chance? Wolf? Nope, not a damned thing through this BAR yet. I cannot recall if its right or left hand thread. Check it out with a magnifying glass if you can or read your manual..it might say. Yep, normal right hand threads. The brake / weight section unscrewed just fine in the expected direction. http://media.browning.com/pdf/om/boss_02380_om_s.pdf That may help. One assumes that you got the part with the holes.. off? Yep, no issues there, just the locknut stuck. |
#13
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Free at last, thank Kroil almighty (and some more heat), it isfree at last!
Some more Kroil soak time and a bit more heat from a heat gun (~180F or
so) managed to get it free. The threads all look fine, must have just been seated really tight. |
#14
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Free at last, thank Kroil almighty (and some more heat), it is free at last!
"Pete C." wrote:
Some more Kroil soak time and a bit more heat from a heat gun (~180F or so) managed to get it free. The threads all look fine, must have just been seated really tight. What is the pitch of those threads? Wes -- "Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller |
#15
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Stuck BOSS...
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 11:52:46 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote: Gunner Asch wrote: On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 08:11:42 -0600, "Pete C." wrote: Gunner Asch wrote: On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 19:56:17 -0600, "Pete C." wrote: Gunner Asch wrote: On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 14:43:19 -0600, "Pete C." wrote: I have a BOSS with the micrometer locknut stuck at the bottomed out zero position. So far Kroil has not released it, nor has considerable torque applied from channel locks via some 1/8" hard rubber to protect the knurl. Suggestions? I cant remember if they are right or left handed threads. Have you tried both ways? They are normal right hand type threads. The front brake / weight section unscrews ok, just the back locknut is... er... locked at the zero position. The instructions say to bottom it when setting the calibration of the number ring, so it's certainly intended to be bottomed out and not seize. Firing lead bullets through it? Er, not in my office. I have applied plenty of Kroil, as well as some mild heat with a hair dryer. We are talking about a BOSS barrel tuning device on the end of a rifle barrel, right? Yes, on a BAR Safari Mk2. It is metal, and rapidly becoming a metalworking project to fix it. May end up wrecking the locknut to get it off and having to buy a replacement. Ok. First thing you do is go to the Autozone and pick up a can of PBlaster and hose it all down really well and let it set (barrel down) over a rag or in a coffee can for a day or so. It's soaked with Kroil overnight. Then take a heat gun and slap some heat to it. Hair dryer will not get hot enough. I used the hair dryer because I didn't want to get it too hot. I can try again with a heat gun and watch it with an IR thermometer. Then try it while its nice and hot. And be sure you turn it in the right direction. A little back and forth may help. It's definitely a normal right hand type thread. There is just one threaded section and the front brake / weight portion unscrewed just fine. If it comes loose, remove it after recording your settings, make a line/scratch or something.. It has the micrometer markings so you can record your settings. Indeed the instructions have you bottom out the locknut and adjust the number ring on the locknut to calibrate it, and that is where it is stuck, bottomed out. There are no settings to record as this is a brand new gun and next week will be my first opportunity to get out and sight it in. then clean it up, and slopper some decent high temp grease on the threads and screw it back together. Antiseize compound is good too. The silver stuff at the Zone works well for this. I've got anti-sieze for when I get it apart, but I shouldn't need it on a brand new gun that's just sat in the safe for a few months. Been shooting corrosive primers by any chance? Wolf? Nope, not a damned thing through this BAR yet. I cannot recall if its right or left hand thread. Check it out with a magnifying glass if you can or read your manual..it might say. Yep, normal right hand threads. The brake / weight section unscrewed just fine in the expected direction. http://media.browning.com/pdf/om/boss_02380_om_s.pdf That may help. One assumes that you got the part with the holes.. off? Yep, no issues there, just the locknut stuck. Hummm...I wonder if the factory sent you a bad one. No rounds fired?..or few? I think Id take it to wherever you bought it. and see if they can move it. That way if there is an issue..something breaks or gets scratched up..its their fault and must correct it One assumes that you have put a piece of rubber hose over the lock ring and grabbed it with channel locks or even visegrips and tried reefing it around? Not 'vinyl tubing" but something a bit more rugged.? Its possible that a burr was left during manufacturing..but..thats damned poor quality control..damned poor. But..Id try hitting it with something like a paint stripper/heat gun.. After all..after firing a number of rounds...that barrel is gonna get HOT..hotter than a hair dryer is gonna get it. Ive handled a number of such arms..and really like the BOSS system and its variants, and as yet, havent found one that was stuck that tight. Gunner "Aren't cats Libertarian? They just want to be left alone. I think our dog is a Democrat, as he is always looking for a handout" Unknown Usnet Poster Heh, heh, I'm pretty sure my dog is a liberal - he has no balls. Keyton |
#16
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Stuck BOSS...
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 11:45:04 -0600, - wrote:
PeteC wrote: Gunner Asch wrote: On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 19:56:17 -0600, "Pete C." wrote: Gunner Asch wrote: On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 14:43:19 -0600, "Pete C." wrote: I have a BOSS with the micrometer locknut stuck at the bottomed out zero position. So far Kroil has not released it, nor has considerable torque applied from channel locks via some 1/8" hard rubber to protect the knurl. Suggestions? I cant remember if they are right or left handed threads. Have you tried both ways? They are normal right hand type threads. The front brake / weight section unscrews ok, just the back locknut is... er... locked at the zero position. The instructions say to bottom it when setting the calibration of the number ring, so it's certainly intended to be bottomed out and not seize. Firing lead bullets through it? Er, not in my office. I have applied plenty of Kroil, as well as some mild heat with a hair dryer. We are talking about a BOSS barrel tuning device on the end of a rifle barrel, right? Yes, on a BAR mk2 Safari. It is metal, and this is rapidly becoming a metalworking project to get it off. I may end up having to destroy the locknut to get it off and order a new one. Browning is closed for the holiday too Bloody hell, sorry about all the duplicates, news server problems... G No problem. Happens to the best of us once in a while. Gunner "Aren't cats Libertarian? They just want to be left alone. I think our dog is a Democrat, as he is always looking for a handout" Unknown Usnet Poster Heh, heh, I'm pretty sure my dog is a liberal - he has no balls. Keyton |
#17
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Free at last, thank Kroil almighty (and some more heat), it is free at last!
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 12:26:28 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote: Some more Kroil soak time and a bit more heat from a heat gun (~180F or so) managed to get it free. The threads all look fine, must have just been seated really tight. Probably they used assembly "locktite" or something similar during the finishing process. Or even a bit of metal finish liquid got hung in there. Ive seen some sticky ones out of the box, but never one that tight. Be sure to put some antisieze compound on it..and watch your eyes the first time you fire it. Sometimes that stuff can migrate a bit and go everywhere when you pull the trigger. Gunner "Aren't cats Libertarian? They just want to be left alone. I think our dog is a Democrat, as he is always looking for a handout" Unknown Usnet Poster Heh, heh, I'm pretty sure my dog is a liberal - he has no balls. Keyton |
#18
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Free at last, thank Kroil almighty (and some more heat), it is freeat last!
Gunner Asch wrote: On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 12:26:28 -0600, "Pete C." wrote: Some more Kroil soak time and a bit more heat from a heat gun (~180F or so) managed to get it free. The threads all look fine, must have just been seated really tight. Probably they used assembly "locktite" or something similar during the finishing process. Or even a bit of metal finish liquid got hung in there. Ive seen some sticky ones out of the box, but never one that tight. Be sure to put some antisieze compound on it..and watch your eyes the first time you fire it. Sometimes that stuff can migrate a bit and go everywhere when you pull the trigger. They do use locktite on the threads between the brake and weight sections, however the barrel threads that the locknut and the back end of the brake run on just have a slot with a nylon strip. I did use a small amount of anti-sieze on the threads when reassembling it, and also did not leave it set at zero. Normally it wouldn't be at zero once you establish the correct setting for a particular load. |
#19
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Free at last, thank Kroil almighty (and some more heat), it is freeat last!
Wes wrote: "Pete C." wrote: Some more Kroil soak time and a bit more heat from a heat gun (~180F or so) managed to get it free. The threads all look fine, must have just been seated really tight. What is the pitch of those threads? I didn't measure them. Eyeball says somewhere in the 5/8"-20 range. |
#20
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Stuck BOSS...
Gunner Asch wrote: On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 11:52:46 -0600, "Pete C." wrote: Gunner Asch wrote: On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 08:11:42 -0600, "Pete C." wrote: Gunner Asch wrote: On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 19:56:17 -0600, "Pete C." wrote: Gunner Asch wrote: On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 14:43:19 -0600, "Pete C." wrote: I have a BOSS with the micrometer locknut stuck at the bottomed out zero position. So far Kroil has not released it, nor has considerable torque applied from channel locks via some 1/8" hard rubber to protect the knurl. Suggestions? I cant remember if they are right or left handed threads. Have you tried both ways? They are normal right hand type threads. The front brake / weight section unscrews ok, just the back locknut is... er... locked at the zero position. The instructions say to bottom it when setting the calibration of the number ring, so it's certainly intended to be bottomed out and not seize. Firing lead bullets through it? Er, not in my office. I have applied plenty of Kroil, as well as some mild heat with a hair dryer. We are talking about a BOSS barrel tuning device on the end of a rifle barrel, right? Yes, on a BAR Safari Mk2. It is metal, and rapidly becoming a metalworking project to fix it. May end up wrecking the locknut to get it off and having to buy a replacement. Ok. First thing you do is go to the Autozone and pick up a can of PBlaster and hose it all down really well and let it set (barrel down) over a rag or in a coffee can for a day or so. It's soaked with Kroil overnight. Then take a heat gun and slap some heat to it. Hair dryer will not get hot enough. I used the hair dryer because I didn't want to get it too hot. I can try again with a heat gun and watch it with an IR thermometer. Then try it while its nice and hot. And be sure you turn it in the right direction. A little back and forth may help. It's definitely a normal right hand type thread. There is just one threaded section and the front brake / weight portion unscrewed just fine. If it comes loose, remove it after recording your settings, make a line/scratch or something.. It has the micrometer markings so you can record your settings. Indeed the instructions have you bottom out the locknut and adjust the number ring on the locknut to calibrate it, and that is where it is stuck, bottomed out. There are no settings to record as this is a brand new gun and next week will be my first opportunity to get out and sight it in. then clean it up, and slopper some decent high temp grease on the threads and screw it back together. Antiseize compound is good too. The silver stuff at the Zone works well for this. I've got anti-sieze for when I get it apart, but I shouldn't need it on a brand new gun that's just sat in the safe for a few months. Been shooting corrosive primers by any chance? Wolf? Nope, not a damned thing through this BAR yet. I cannot recall if its right or left hand thread. Check it out with a magnifying glass if you can or read your manual..it might say. Yep, normal right hand threads. The brake / weight section unscrewed just fine in the expected direction. http://media.browning.com/pdf/om/boss_02380_om_s.pdf That may help. One assumes that you got the part with the holes.. off? Yep, no issues there, just the locknut stuck. Hummm...I wonder if the factory sent you a bad one. No rounds fired?..or few? I think Id take it to wherever you bought it. and see if they can move it. That way if there is an issue..something breaks or gets scratched up..its their fault and must correct it One assumes that you have put a piece of rubber hose over the lock ring and grabbed it with channel locks or even visegrips and tried reefing it around? Not 'vinyl tubing" but something a bit more rugged.? Its possible that a burr was left during manufacturing..but..thats damned poor quality control..damned poor. But..Id try hitting it with something like a paint stripper/heat gun.. After all..after firing a number of rounds...that barrel is gonna get HOT..hotter than a hair dryer is gonna get it. Ive handled a number of such arms..and really like the BOSS system and its variants, and as yet, havent found one that was stuck that tight. I used some 1/8" hard rubber sheet and channel locks and the knurl just chewed up the rubber. Eventually the Kroil and extra heat got it, but the knurl did get a little blemished. I didn't see any burs on it, everything looked fine. I think leaving it sitting at zero it sort of wrung together like gauge blocks and took some serious oomph to get it separated. I'll just order another locknut Monday along with a couple of the nylon lock strips and the BOSS CR. At least it's operational now. |
#21
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Stuck BOSS...
On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 14:43:19 -0600, the infamous "Pete C."
scrawled the following: I have a BOSS with the micrometer locknut stuck at the bottomed out zero position. So far Kroil has not released it, nor has considerable torque applied from channel locks via some 1/8" hard rubber to protect the knurl. Non-p/c application of freon 12 to the shaft with heated rubber pads to the nut? (Keep it away from the plastic base.) Have you tried moving it back and forth, alternating tightening and loosening, while attempting to rotate the micrometer (? not familiar with the Boss)? Sometimes moving both at once can rock it loose. -- Some days, it's not even worth chewing through the restraints. |
#22
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Stuck BOSS...
Might be able to use Dust-Off, just tip the can upside down
and spray liquid off the bottom. Propane torch for the heat? -- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .. "Larry Jaques" wrote in message ... On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 14:43:19 -0600, the infamous "Pete C." scrawled the following: I have a BOSS with the micrometer locknut stuck at the bottomed out zero position. So far Kroil has not released it, nor has considerable torque applied from channel locks via some 1/8" hard rubber to protect the knurl. Non-p/c application of freon 12 to the shaft with heated rubber pads to the nut? (Keep it away from the plastic base.) Have you tried moving it back and forth, alternating tightening and loosening, while attempting to rotate the micrometer (? not familiar with the Boss)? Sometimes moving both at once can rock it loose. -- Some days, it's not even worth chewing through the restraints. |
#23
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Stuck BOSS...
Stormin Mormon wrote: Might be able to use Dust-Off, just tip the can upside down and spray liquid off the bottom. Propane torch for the heat? It's off now, and I usually have liquid nitrogen on hand if I need to cool stuff. |
#24
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Stuck BOSS...
Liquid nitrogen probably cheaper than dustuff, if you have
the tanks and such, already. -- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .. "Pete C." wrote in message ster.com... Stormin Mormon wrote: Might be able to use Dust-Off, just tip the can upside down and spray liquid off the bottom. Propane torch for the heat? It's off now, and I usually have liquid nitrogen on hand if I need to cool stuff. |
#25
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Stuck BOSS...
Stormin Mormon wrote: Liquid nitrogen probably cheaper than dustuff, if you have the tanks and such, already. Cheaper and colder. $1/liter for -328F or so. |
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