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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Stuck BOSS...
I have a BOSS with the micrometer locknut stuck at the bottomed out zero position. So far Kroil has not released it, nor has considerable torque applied from channel locks via some 1/8" hard rubber to protect the knurl. Suggestions? |
#2
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Stuck BOSS...
On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 14:43:19 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote: I have a BOSS with the micrometer locknut stuck at the bottomed out zero position. So far Kroil has not released it, nor has considerable torque applied from channel locks via some 1/8" hard rubber to protect the knurl. Suggestions? I cant remember if they are right or left handed threads. Have you tried both ways? Firing lead bullets through it? Gunner "Aren't cats Libertarian? They just want to be left alone. I think our dog is a Democrat, as he is always looking for a handout" Unknown Usnet Poster Heh, heh, I'm pretty sure my dog is a liberal - he has no balls. Keyton |
#3
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Stuck BOSS...
Gunner Asch wrote: On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 14:43:19 -0600, "Pete C." wrote: I have a BOSS with the micrometer locknut stuck at the bottomed out zero position. So far Kroil has not released it, nor has considerable torque applied from channel locks via some 1/8" hard rubber to protect the knurl. Suggestions? I cant remember if they are right or left handed threads. Have you tried both ways? They are normal right hand type threads. The front brake / weight section unscrews ok, just the back locknut is... er... locked at the zero position. The instructions say to bottom it when setting the calibration of the number ring, so it's certainly intended to be bottomed out and not seize. Firing lead bullets through it? Er, not in my office. I have applied plenty of Kroil, as well as some mild heat with a hair dryer. |
#4
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Stuck BOSS...
On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 19:56:17 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote: Gunner Asch wrote: On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 14:43:19 -0600, "Pete C." wrote: I have a BOSS with the micrometer locknut stuck at the bottomed out zero position. So far Kroil has not released it, nor has considerable torque applied from channel locks via some 1/8" hard rubber to protect the knurl. Suggestions? I cant remember if they are right or left handed threads. Have you tried both ways? They are normal right hand type threads. The front brake / weight section unscrews ok, just the back locknut is... er... locked at the zero position. The instructions say to bottom it when setting the calibration of the number ring, so it's certainly intended to be bottomed out and not seize. Firing lead bullets through it? Er, not in my office. I have applied plenty of Kroil, as well as some mild heat with a hair dryer. We are talking about a BOSS barrel tuning device on the end of a rifle barrel, right? Gunner "Aren't cats Libertarian? They just want to be left alone. I think our dog is a Democrat, as he is always looking for a handout" Unknown Usnet Poster Heh, heh, I'm pretty sure my dog is a liberal - he has no balls. Keyton |
#5
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Stuck BOSS...
Gunner Asch wrote: On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 19:56:17 -0600, "Pete C." wrote: Gunner Asch wrote: On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 14:43:19 -0600, "Pete C." wrote: I have a BOSS with the micrometer locknut stuck at the bottomed out zero position. So far Kroil has not released it, nor has considerable torque applied from channel locks via some 1/8" hard rubber to protect the knurl. Suggestions? I cant remember if they are right or left handed threads. Have you tried both ways? They are normal right hand type threads. The front brake / weight section unscrews ok, just the back locknut is... er... locked at the zero position. The instructions say to bottom it when setting the calibration of the number ring, so it's certainly intended to be bottomed out and not seize. Firing lead bullets through it? Er, not in my office. I have applied plenty of Kroil, as well as some mild heat with a hair dryer. We are talking about a BOSS barrel tuning device on the end of a rifle barrel, right? Yes, on a BAR Safari Mk2. It is metal, and rapidly becoming a metalworking project to fix it. May end up wrecking the locknut to get it off and having to buy a replacement. |
#6
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Stuck BOSS...
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 08:11:42 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote: Gunner Asch wrote: On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 19:56:17 -0600, "Pete C." wrote: Gunner Asch wrote: On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 14:43:19 -0600, "Pete C." wrote: I have a BOSS with the micrometer locknut stuck at the bottomed out zero position. So far Kroil has not released it, nor has considerable torque applied from channel locks via some 1/8" hard rubber to protect the knurl. Suggestions? I cant remember if they are right or left handed threads. Have you tried both ways? They are normal right hand type threads. The front brake / weight section unscrews ok, just the back locknut is... er... locked at the zero position. The instructions say to bottom it when setting the calibration of the number ring, so it's certainly intended to be bottomed out and not seize. Firing lead bullets through it? Er, not in my office. I have applied plenty of Kroil, as well as some mild heat with a hair dryer. We are talking about a BOSS barrel tuning device on the end of a rifle barrel, right? Yes, on a BAR Safari Mk2. It is metal, and rapidly becoming a metalworking project to fix it. May end up wrecking the locknut to get it off and having to buy a replacement. Ok. First thing you do is go to the Autozone and pick up a can of PBlaster and hose it all down really well and let it set (barrel down) over a rag or in a coffee can for a day or so. Then take a heat gun and slap some heat to it. Hair dryer will not get hot enough. Then try it while its nice and hot. And be sure you turn it in the right direction. A little back and forth may help. If it comes loose, remove it after recording your settings, make a line/scratch or something..then clean it up, and slopper some decent high temp grease on the threads and screw it back together. Antiseize compound is good too. The silver stuff at the Zone works well for this. Been shooting corrosive primers by any chance? Wolf? I cannot recall if its right or left hand thread. Check it out with a magnifying glass if you can or read your manual..it might say. http://media.browning.com/pdf/om/boss_02380_om_s.pdf That may help. One assumes that you got the part with the holes.. off? Gunner "Aren't cats Libertarian? They just want to be left alone. I think our dog is a Democrat, as he is always looking for a handout" Unknown Usnet Poster Heh, heh, I'm pretty sure my dog is a liberal - he has no balls. Keyton |
#7
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Stuck BOSS...
Gunner Asch wrote: On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 19:56:17 -0600, "Pete C." wrote: Gunner Asch wrote: On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 14:43:19 -0600, "Pete C." wrote: I have a BOSS with the micrometer locknut stuck at the bottomed out zero position. So far Kroil has not released it, nor has considerable torque applied from channel locks via some 1/8" hard rubber to protect the knurl. Suggestions? I cant remember if they are right or left handed threads. Have you tried both ways? They are normal right hand type threads. The front brake / weight section unscrews ok, just the back locknut is... er... locked at the zero position. The instructions say to bottom it when setting the calibration of the number ring, so it's certainly intended to be bottomed out and not seize. Firing lead bullets through it? Er, not in my office. I have applied plenty of Kroil, as well as some mild heat with a hair dryer. We are talking about a BOSS barrel tuning device on the end of a rifle barrel, right? Yes, on a BAR Mk2 Safari. It is metal, and rapidly becoming a metalworking project to fix it. May end up wrecking the locknut to get it off and having to buy a replacement. And of course Browning is closed due to the holiday. |
#8
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Stuck BOSS...
Gunner Asch wrote:
On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 19:56:17 -0600, "Pete C." wrote: Gunner Asch wrote: On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 14:43:19 -0600, "Pete C." wrote: I have a BOSS with the micrometer locknut stuck at the bottomed out zero position. So far Kroil has not released it, nor has considerable torque applied from channel locks via some 1/8" hard rubber to protect the knurl. Suggestions? I cant remember if they are right or left handed threads. Have you tried both ways? They are normal right hand type threads. The front brake / weight section unscrews ok, just the back locknut is... er... locked at the zero position. The instructions say to bottom it when setting the calibration of the number ring, so it's certainly intended to be bottomed out and not seize. Firing lead bullets through it? Er, not in my office. I have applied plenty of Kroil, as well as some mild heat with a hair dryer. We are talking about a BOSS barrel tuning device on the end of a rifle barrel, right? Yes, on a BAR mk2 Safari. It's metal and this is rapidly becoming a metalworking project to remove it. I may end up destroying the locknut to get it off and having to get a new one. Of course Browning is closed for the holiday too |
#9
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Stuck BOSS...
Gunner Asch wrote: On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 19:56:17 -0600, "Pete C." wrote: Gunner Asch wrote: On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 14:43:19 -0600, "Pete C." wrote: I have a BOSS with the micrometer locknut stuck at the bottomed out zero position. So far Kroil has not released it, nor has considerable torque applied from channel locks via some 1/8" hard rubber to protect the knurl. Suggestions? I cant remember if they are right or left handed threads. Have you tried both ways? They are normal right hand type threads. The front brake / weight section unscrews ok, just the back locknut is... er... locked at the zero position. The instructions say to bottom it when setting the calibration of the number ring, so it's certainly intended to be bottomed out and not seize. Firing lead bullets through it? Er, not in my office. I have applied plenty of Kroil, as well as some mild heat with a hair dryer. We are talking about a BOSS barrel tuning device on the end of a rifle barrel, right? Yes, on a BAR Mk2 Safari. It is metal, and this is rapidly becoming a metalworking project to get it off. I may end up having to destroy the locknut to get it off and order a new one. Browning is closed for the holiday too |
#10
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Stuck BOSS...
Gunner Asch wrote:
On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 19:56:17 -0600, "Pete C." wrote: Gunner Asch wrote: On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 14:43:19 -0600, "Pete C." wrote: I have a BOSS with the micrometer locknut stuck at the bottomed out zero position. So far Kroil has not released it, nor has considerable torque applied from channel locks via some 1/8" hard rubber to protect the knurl. Suggestions? I cant remember if they are right or left handed threads. Have you tried both ways? They are normal right hand type threads. The front brake / weight section unscrews ok, just the back locknut is... er... locked at the zero position. The instructions say to bottom it when setting the calibration of the number ring, so it's certainly intended to be bottomed out and not seize. Firing lead bullets through it? Er, not in my office. I have applied plenty of Kroil, as well as some mild heat with a hair dryer. We are talking about a BOSS barrel tuning device on the end of a rifle barrel, right? Yes, on a BAR mk2 Safari. It is metal, and this is rapidly becoming a metalworking project to get it off. I may end up having to destroy the locknut to get it off and order a new one. Browning is closed for the holiday too |
#11
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Stuck BOSS...
On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 14:43:19 -0600, the infamous "Pete C."
scrawled the following: I have a BOSS with the micrometer locknut stuck at the bottomed out zero position. So far Kroil has not released it, nor has considerable torque applied from channel locks via some 1/8" hard rubber to protect the knurl. Non-p/c application of freon 12 to the shaft with heated rubber pads to the nut? (Keep it away from the plastic base.) Have you tried moving it back and forth, alternating tightening and loosening, while attempting to rotate the micrometer (? not familiar with the Boss)? Sometimes moving both at once can rock it loose. -- Some days, it's not even worth chewing through the restraints. |
#12
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Stuck BOSS...
Might be able to use Dust-Off, just tip the can upside down
and spray liquid off the bottom. Propane torch for the heat? -- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .. "Larry Jaques" wrote in message ... On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 14:43:19 -0600, the infamous "Pete C." scrawled the following: I have a BOSS with the micrometer locknut stuck at the bottomed out zero position. So far Kroil has not released it, nor has considerable torque applied from channel locks via some 1/8" hard rubber to protect the knurl. Non-p/c application of freon 12 to the shaft with heated rubber pads to the nut? (Keep it away from the plastic base.) Have you tried moving it back and forth, alternating tightening and loosening, while attempting to rotate the micrometer (? not familiar with the Boss)? Sometimes moving both at once can rock it loose. -- Some days, it's not even worth chewing through the restraints. |
#13
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Stuck BOSS...
Stormin Mormon wrote: Might be able to use Dust-Off, just tip the can upside down and spray liquid off the bottom. Propane torch for the heat? It's off now, and I usually have liquid nitrogen on hand if I need to cool stuff. |
#14
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Stuck BOSS...
Liquid nitrogen probably cheaper than dustuff, if you have
the tanks and such, already. -- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .. "Pete C." wrote in message ster.com... Stormin Mormon wrote: Might be able to use Dust-Off, just tip the can upside down and spray liquid off the bottom. Propane torch for the heat? It's off now, and I usually have liquid nitrogen on hand if I need to cool stuff. |
#15
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Stuck BOSS...
Stormin Mormon wrote: Liquid nitrogen probably cheaper than dustuff, if you have the tanks and such, already. Cheaper and colder. $1/liter for -328F or so. |
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