Stuck BOSS...
 

I have a BOSS with the micrometer locknut stuck at the bottomed out zero
position. So far Kroil has not released it, nor has considerable torque
applied from channel locks via some 1/8" hard rubber to protect the
knurl.

Suggestions?

Stuck BOSS...
 

On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 14:43:19 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:


I have a BOSS with the micrometer locknut stuck at the bottomed out zero
position. So far Kroil has not released it, nor has considerable torque
applied from channel locks via some 1/8" hard rubber to protect the
knurl.

Suggestions?

I cant remember if they are right or left handed threads. Have you tried
both ways?

Firing lead bullets through it?

Gunner

"Aren't cats Libertarian? They just want to be left alone.
I think our dog is a Democrat, as he is always looking for a handout"
Unknown Usnet Poster

Heh, heh, I'm pretty sure my dog is a liberal - he has no balls.
Keyton

Stuck BOSS...
 

Gunner Asch wrote:

On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 14:43:19 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:


I have a BOSS with the micrometer locknut stuck at the bottomed out zero
position. So far Kroil has not released it, nor has considerable torque
applied from channel locks via some 1/8" hard rubber to protect the
knurl.

Suggestions?

I cant remember if they are right or left handed threads. Have you tried
both ways?

They are normal right hand type threads. The front brake / weight
section unscrews ok, just the back locknut is... er... locked at the
zero position. The instructions say to bottom it when setting the
calibration of the number ring, so it's certainly intended to be
bottomed out and not seize.


Firing lead bullets through it?

Er, not in my office. I have applied plenty of Kroil, as well as some
mild heat with a hair dryer.

Stuck BOSS...
 

On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 19:56:17 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:


Gunner Asch wrote:

On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 14:43:19 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:


I have a BOSS with the micrometer locknut stuck at the bottomed out zero
position. So far Kroil has not released it, nor has considerable torque
applied from channel locks via some 1/8" hard rubber to protect the
knurl.

Suggestions?

I cant remember if they are right or left handed threads. Have you tried
both ways?

They are normal right hand type threads. The front brake / weight
section unscrews ok, just the back locknut is... er... locked at the
zero position. The instructions say to bottom it when setting the
calibration of the number ring, so it's certainly intended to be
bottomed out and not seize.


Firing lead bullets through it?

Er, not in my office. I have applied plenty of Kroil, as well as some
mild heat with a hair dryer.


We are talking about a BOSS barrel tuning device on the end of a rifle
barrel, right?

Gunner

"Aren't cats Libertarian? They just want to be left alone.
I think our dog is a Democrat, as he is always looking for a handout"
Unknown Usnet Poster

Heh, heh, I'm pretty sure my dog is a liberal - he has no balls.
Keyton

Stuck BOSS...
 

Gunner Asch wrote:

On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 19:56:17 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:


Gunner Asch wrote:

On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 14:43:19 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:


I have a BOSS with the micrometer locknut stuck at the bottomed out zero
position. So far Kroil has not released it, nor has considerable torque
applied from channel locks via some 1/8" hard rubber to protect the
knurl.

Suggestions?

I cant remember if they are right or left handed threads. Have you tried
both ways?

They are normal right hand type threads. The front brake / weight
section unscrews ok, just the back locknut is... er... locked at the
zero position. The instructions say to bottom it when setting the
calibration of the number ring, so it's certainly intended to be
bottomed out and not seize.


Firing lead bullets through it?

Er, not in my office. I have applied plenty of Kroil, as well as some
mild heat with a hair dryer.

We are talking about a BOSS barrel tuning device on the end of a rifle
barrel, right?

Yes, on a BAR Safari Mk2. It is metal, and rapidly becoming a
metalworking project to fix it. May end up wrecking the locknut to get
it off and having to buy a replacement.

Stuck BOSS...
 

On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 08:11:42 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:


Gunner Asch wrote:

On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 19:56:17 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:


Gunner Asch wrote:

On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 14:43:19 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:


I have a BOSS with the micrometer locknut stuck at the bottomed out zero
position. So far Kroil has not released it, nor has considerable torque
applied from channel locks via some 1/8" hard rubber to protect the
knurl.

Suggestions?

I cant remember if they are right or left handed threads. Have you tried
both ways?

They are normal right hand type threads. The front brake / weight
section unscrews ok, just the back locknut is... er... locked at the
zero position. The instructions say to bottom it when setting the
calibration of the number ring, so it's certainly intended to be
bottomed out and not seize.


Firing lead bullets through it?

Er, not in my office. I have applied plenty of Kroil, as well as some
mild heat with a hair dryer.

We are talking about a BOSS barrel tuning device on the end of a rifle
barrel, right?

Yes, on a BAR Safari Mk2. It is metal, and rapidly becoming a
metalworking project to fix it. May end up wrecking the locknut to get
it off and having to buy a replacement.

Ok. First thing you do is go to the Autozone and pick up a can of
PBlaster and hose it all down really well and let it set (barrel down)
over a rag or in a coffee can for a day or so.

Then take a heat gun and slap some heat to it. Hair dryer will not get
hot enough.

Then try it while its nice and hot. And be sure you turn it in the
right direction. A little back and forth may help.

If it comes loose, remove it after recording your settings, make a
line/scratch or something..then clean it up, and slopper some decent
high temp grease on the threads and screw it back together. Antiseize
compound is good too. The silver stuff at the Zone works well for this.

Been shooting corrosive primers by any chance? Wolf?

I cannot recall if its right or left hand thread. Check it out with a
magnifying glass if you can or read your manual..it might say.

http://media.browning.com/pdf/om/boss_02380_om_s.pdf


That may help. One assumes that you got the part with the holes.. off?

Gunner

"Aren't cats Libertarian? They just want to be left alone.
I think our dog is a Democrat, as he is always looking for a handout"
Unknown Usnet Poster

Heh, heh, I'm pretty sure my dog is a liberal - he has no balls.
Keyton

Stuck BOSS...
 

Gunner Asch wrote:

On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 19:56:17 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:


Gunner Asch wrote:

On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 14:43:19 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:


I have a BOSS with the micrometer locknut stuck at the bottomed out zero
position. So far Kroil has not released it, nor has considerable torque
applied from channel locks via some 1/8" hard rubber to protect the
knurl.

Suggestions?

I cant remember if they are right or left handed threads. Have you tried
both ways?

They are normal right hand type threads. The front brake / weight
section unscrews ok, just the back locknut is... er... locked at the
zero position. The instructions say to bottom it when setting the
calibration of the number ring, so it's certainly intended to be
bottomed out and not seize.


Firing lead bullets through it?

Er, not in my office. I have applied plenty of Kroil, as well as some
mild heat with a hair dryer.

We are talking about a BOSS barrel tuning device on the end of a rifle
barrel, right?

Yes, on a BAR Mk2 Safari. It is metal, and rapidly becoming a
metalworking project to fix it. May end up wrecking the locknut to get
it off and having to buy a replacement. And of course Browning is closed
due to the holiday.

Stuck BOSS...
 

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 19:56:17 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 14:43:19 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:

I have a BOSS with the micrometer locknut stuck at the bottomed out zero
position. So far Kroil has not released it, nor has considerable torque
applied from channel locks via some 1/8" hard rubber to protect the
knurl.

Suggestions?
I cant remember if they are right or left handed threads. Have you tried
both ways?
They are normal right hand type threads. The front brake / weight
section unscrews ok, just the back locknut is... er... locked at the
zero position. The instructions say to bottom it when setting the
calibration of the number ring, so it's certainly intended to be
bottomed out and not seize.

Firing lead bullets through it?
Er, not in my office. I have applied plenty of Kroil, as well as some
mild heat with a hair dryer.


We are talking about a BOSS barrel tuning device on the end of a rifle
barrel, right?

Yes, on a BAR mk2 Safari. It's metal and this is rapidly becoming a
metalworking project to remove it. I may end up destroying the locknut
to get it off and having to get a new one. Of course Browning is closed
for the holiday too :(

Stuck BOSS...
 

Gunner Asch wrote:

On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 19:56:17 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:


Gunner Asch wrote:

On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 14:43:19 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:


I have a BOSS with the micrometer locknut stuck at the bottomed out zero
position. So far Kroil has not released it, nor has considerable torque
applied from channel locks via some 1/8" hard rubber to protect the
knurl.

Suggestions?

I cant remember if they are right or left handed threads. Have you tried
both ways?

They are normal right hand type threads. The front brake / weight
section unscrews ok, just the back locknut is... er... locked at the
zero position. The instructions say to bottom it when setting the
calibration of the number ring, so it's certainly intended to be
bottomed out and not seize.


Firing lead bullets through it?

Er, not in my office. I have applied plenty of Kroil, as well as some
mild heat with a hair dryer.

We are talking about a BOSS barrel tuning device on the end of a rifle
barrel, right?

Yes, on a BAR Mk2 Safari. It is metal, and this is rapidly becoming a
metalworking project to get it off. I may end up having to destroy the
locknut to get it off and order a new one. Browning is closed for the
holiday too :(

Stuck BOSS...
 

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 19:56:17 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 14:43:19 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:

I have a BOSS with the micrometer locknut stuck at the bottomed out zero
position. So far Kroil has not released it, nor has considerable torque
applied from channel locks via some 1/8" hard rubber to protect the
knurl.

Suggestions?
I cant remember if they are right or left handed threads. Have you tried
both ways?
They are normal right hand type threads. The front brake / weight
section unscrews ok, just the back locknut is... er... locked at the
zero position. The instructions say to bottom it when setting the
calibration of the number ring, so it's certainly intended to be
bottomed out and not seize.

Firing lead bullets through it?
Er, not in my office. I have applied plenty of Kroil, as well as some
mild heat with a hair dryer.


We are talking about a BOSS barrel tuning device on the end of a rifle
barrel, right?

Yes, on a BAR mk2 Safari. It is metal, and this is rapidly becoming a
metalworking project to get it off. I may end up having to destroy the
locknut to get it off and order a new one. Browning is closed for the
holiday too :(

Stuck BOSS...
 

PeteC wrote:
Gunner Asch wrote:
On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 19:56:17 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 14:43:19 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:

I have a BOSS with the micrometer locknut stuck at the bottomed out
zero
position. So far Kroil has not released it, nor has considerable
torque
applied from channel locks via some 1/8" hard rubber to protect the
knurl.

Suggestions?
I cant remember if they are right or left handed threads. Have you
tried
both ways?
They are normal right hand type threads. The front brake / weight
section unscrews ok, just the back locknut is... er... locked at the
zero position. The instructions say to bottom it when setting the
calibration of the number ring, so it's certainly intended to be
bottomed out and not seize.

Firing lead bullets through it?
Er, not in my office. I have applied plenty of Kroil, as well as some
mild heat with a hair dryer.


We are talking about a BOSS barrel tuning device on the end of a rifle
barrel, right?

Yes, on a BAR mk2 Safari. It is metal, and this is rapidly becoming a
metalworking project to get it off. I may end up having to destroy the
locknut to get it off and order a new one. Browning is closed for the
holiday too :(

Bloody hell, sorry about all the duplicates, news server problems...

Stuck BOSS...
 

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 08:11:42 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 19:56:17 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 14:43:19 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:

I have a BOSS with the micrometer locknut stuck at the bottomed out zero
position. So far Kroil has not released it, nor has considerable torque
applied from channel locks via some 1/8" hard rubber to protect the
knurl.

Suggestions?
I cant remember if they are right or left handed threads. Have you tried
both ways?
They are normal right hand type threads. The front brake / weight
section unscrews ok, just the back locknut is... er... locked at the
zero position. The instructions say to bottom it when setting the
calibration of the number ring, so it's certainly intended to be
bottomed out and not seize.

Firing lead bullets through it?
Er, not in my office. I have applied plenty of Kroil, as well as some
mild heat with a hair dryer.
We are talking about a BOSS barrel tuning device on the end of a rifle
barrel, right?
Yes, on a BAR Safari Mk2. It is metal, and rapidly becoming a
metalworking project to fix it. May end up wrecking the locknut to get
it off and having to buy a replacement.

Ok. First thing you do is go to the Autozone and pick up a can of
PBlaster and hose it all down really well and let it set (barrel down)
over a rag or in a coffee can for a day or so.

It's soaked with Kroil overnight.


Then take a heat gun and slap some heat to it. Hair dryer will not get
hot enough.

I used the hair dryer because I didn't want to get it too hot. I can try
again with a heat gun and watch it with an IR thermometer.


Then try it while its nice and hot. And be sure you turn it in the
right direction. A little back and forth may help.

It's definitely a normal right hand type thread. There is just one
threaded section and the front brake / weight portion unscrewed just fine.


If it comes loose, remove it after recording your settings, make a
line/scratch or something..

It has the micrometer markings so you can record your settings. Indeed
the instructions have you bottom out the locknut and adjust the number
ring on the locknut to calibrate it, and that is where it is stuck,
bottomed out. There are no settings to record as this is a brand new gun
and next week will be my first opportunity to get out and sight it in.

then clean it up, and slopper some decent
high temp grease on the threads and screw it back together. Antiseize
compound is good too. The silver stuff at the Zone works well for this.

I've got anti-sieze for when I get it apart, but I shouldn't need it on
a brand new gun that's just sat in the safe for a few months.


Been shooting corrosive primers by any chance? Wolf?

Nope, not a damned thing through this BAR yet.


I cannot recall if its right or left hand thread. Check it out with a
magnifying glass if you can or read your manual..it might say.

Yep, normal right hand threads. The brake / weight section unscrewed
just fine in the expected direction.


http://media.browning.com/pdf/om/boss_02380_om_s.pdf


That may help. One assumes that you got the part with the holes.. off?

Yep, no issues there, just the locknut stuck.

Free at last, thank Kroil almighty (and some more heat), it isfree at last!
 

Some more Kroil soak time and a bit more heat from a heat gun (~180F or
so) managed to get it free. The threads all look fine, must have just
been seated really tight.

Free at last, thank Kroil almighty (and some more heat), it is free at last!
 

"Pete C." wrote:

Some more Kroil soak time and a bit more heat from a heat gun (~180F or
so) managed to get it free. The threads all look fine, must have just
been seated really tight.

What is the pitch of those threads?

Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

Stuck BOSS...
 

On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 11:52:46 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 08:11:42 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 19:56:17 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 14:43:19 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:

I have a BOSS with the micrometer locknut stuck at the bottomed out zero
position. So far Kroil has not released it, nor has considerable torque
applied from channel locks via some 1/8" hard rubber to protect the
knurl.

Suggestions?
I cant remember if they are right or left handed threads. Have you tried
both ways?
They are normal right hand type threads. The front brake / weight
section unscrews ok, just the back locknut is... er... locked at the
zero position. The instructions say to bottom it when setting the
calibration of the number ring, so it's certainly intended to be
bottomed out and not seize.

Firing lead bullets through it?
Er, not in my office. I have applied plenty of Kroil, as well as some
mild heat with a hair dryer.
We are talking about a BOSS barrel tuning device on the end of a rifle
barrel, right?
Yes, on a BAR Safari Mk2. It is metal, and rapidly becoming a
metalworking project to fix it. May end up wrecking the locknut to get
it off and having to buy a replacement.

Ok. First thing you do is go to the Autozone and pick up a can of
PBlaster and hose it all down really well and let it set (barrel down)
over a rag or in a coffee can for a day or so.

It's soaked with Kroil overnight.


Then take a heat gun and slap some heat to it. Hair dryer will not get
hot enough.

I used the hair dryer because I didn't want to get it too hot. I can try
again with a heat gun and watch it with an IR thermometer.


Then try it while its nice and hot. And be sure you turn it in the
right direction. A little back and forth may help.

It's definitely a normal right hand type thread. There is just one
threaded section and the front brake / weight portion unscrewed just fine.


If it comes loose, remove it after recording your settings, make a
line/scratch or something..

It has the micrometer markings so you can record your settings. Indeed
the instructions have you bottom out the locknut and adjust the number
ring on the locknut to calibrate it, and that is where it is stuck,
bottomed out. There are no settings to record as this is a brand new gun
and next week will be my first opportunity to get out and sight it in.

then clean it up, and slopper some decent
high temp grease on the threads and screw it back together. Antiseize
compound is good too. The silver stuff at the Zone works well for this.

I've got anti-sieze for when I get it apart, but I shouldn't need it on
a brand new gun that's just sat in the safe for a few months.


Been shooting corrosive primers by any chance? Wolf?

Nope, not a damned thing through this BAR yet.


I cannot recall if its right or left hand thread. Check it out with a
magnifying glass if you can or read your manual..it might say.

Yep, normal right hand threads. The brake / weight section unscrewed
just fine in the expected direction.


http://media.browning.com/pdf/om/boss_02380_om_s.pdf


That may help. One assumes that you got the part with the holes.. off?

Yep, no issues there, just the locknut stuck.


Hummm...I wonder if the factory sent you a bad one. No rounds
fired?..or few?

I think Id take it to wherever you bought it. and see if they can move
it. That way if there is an issue..something breaks or gets scratched
up..its their fault and must correct it

One assumes that you have put a piece of rubber hose over the lock ring
and grabbed it with channel locks or even visegrips and tried reefing it
around?

Not 'vinyl tubing" but something a bit more rugged.?

Its possible that a burr was left during manufacturing..but..thats
damned poor quality control..damned poor.

But..Id try hitting it with something like a paint stripper/heat gun..
After all..after firing a number of rounds...that barrel is gonna get
HOT..hotter than a hair dryer is gonna get it.

Ive handled a number of such arms..and really like the BOSS system and
its variants, and as yet, havent found one that was stuck that tight.

Gunner

"Aren't cats Libertarian? They just want to be left alone.
I think our dog is a Democrat, as he is always looking for a handout"
Unknown Usnet Poster

Heh, heh, I'm pretty sure my dog is a liberal - he has no balls.
Keyton

Stuck BOSS...
 

On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 11:45:04 -0600, - wrote:

PeteC wrote:
Gunner Asch wrote:
On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 19:56:17 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 14:43:19 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:

I have a BOSS with the micrometer locknut stuck at the bottomed out
zero
position. So far Kroil has not released it, nor has considerable
torque
applied from channel locks via some 1/8" hard rubber to protect the
knurl.

Suggestions?
I cant remember if they are right or left handed threads. Have you
tried
both ways?
They are normal right hand type threads. The front brake / weight
section unscrews ok, just the back locknut is... er... locked at the
zero position. The instructions say to bottom it when setting the
calibration of the number ring, so it's certainly intended to be
bottomed out and not seize.

Firing lead bullets through it?
Er, not in my office. I have applied plenty of Kroil, as well as some
mild heat with a hair dryer.


We are talking about a BOSS barrel tuning device on the end of a rifle
barrel, right?

Yes, on a BAR mk2 Safari. It is metal, and this is rapidly becoming a
metalworking project to get it off. I may end up having to destroy the
locknut to get it off and order a new one. Browning is closed for the
holiday too :(

Bloody hell, sorry about all the duplicates, news server problems...

G

No problem. Happens to the best of us once in a while.

Gunner

"Aren't cats Libertarian? They just want to be left alone.
I think our dog is a Democrat, as he is always looking for a handout"
Unknown Usnet Poster

Heh, heh, I'm pretty sure my dog is a liberal - he has no balls.
Keyton

Free at last, thank Kroil almighty (and some more heat), it is free at last!
 

On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 12:26:28 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:

Some more Kroil soak time and a bit more heat from a heat gun (~180F or
so) managed to get it free. The threads all look fine, must have just
been seated really tight.

Probably they used assembly "locktite" or something similar during the
finishing process. Or even a bit of metal finish liquid got hung in
there. Ive seen some sticky ones out of the box, but never one that
tight.

Be sure to put some antisieze compound on it..and watch your eyes the
first time you fire it. Sometimes that stuff can migrate a bit and go
everywhere when you pull the trigger.


Gunner

"Aren't cats Libertarian? They just want to be left alone.
I think our dog is a Democrat, as he is always looking for a handout"
Unknown Usnet Poster

Heh, heh, I'm pretty sure my dog is a liberal - he has no balls.
Keyton

Free at last, thank Kroil almighty (and some more heat), it is freeat last!
 

Gunner Asch wrote:

On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 12:26:28 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:

Some more Kroil soak time and a bit more heat from a heat gun (~180F or
so) managed to get it free. The threads all look fine, must have just
been seated really tight.

Probably they used assembly "locktite" or something similar during the
finishing process. Or even a bit of metal finish liquid got hung in
there. Ive seen some sticky ones out of the box, but never one that
tight.

Be sure to put some antisieze compound on it..and watch your eyes the
first time you fire it. Sometimes that stuff can migrate a bit and go
everywhere when you pull the trigger.

They do use locktite on the threads between the brake and weight
sections, however the barrel threads that the locknut and the back end
of the brake run on just have a slot with a nylon strip.

I did use a small amount of anti-sieze on the threads when reassembling
it, and also did not leave it set at zero. Normally it wouldn't be at
zero once you establish the correct setting for a particular load.

Free at last, thank Kroil almighty (and some more heat), it is freeat last!
 

Wes wrote:

"Pete C." wrote:

Some more Kroil soak time and a bit more heat from a heat gun (~180F or
so) managed to get it free. The threads all look fine, must have just
been seated really tight.

What is the pitch of those threads?

I didn't measure them. Eyeball says somewhere in the 5/8"-20 range.

Stuck BOSS...
 

Gunner Asch wrote:

On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 11:52:46 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 08:11:42 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 19:56:17 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 14:43:19 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:

I have a BOSS with the micrometer locknut stuck at the bottomed out zero
position. So far Kroil has not released it, nor has considerable torque
applied from channel locks via some 1/8" hard rubber to protect the
knurl.

Suggestions?
I cant remember if they are right or left handed threads. Have you tried
both ways?
They are normal right hand type threads. The front brake / weight
section unscrews ok, just the back locknut is... er... locked at the
zero position. The instructions say to bottom it when setting the
calibration of the number ring, so it's certainly intended to be
bottomed out and not seize.

Firing lead bullets through it?
Er, not in my office. I have applied plenty of Kroil, as well as some
mild heat with a hair dryer.
We are talking about a BOSS barrel tuning device on the end of a rifle
barrel, right?
Yes, on a BAR Safari Mk2. It is metal, and rapidly becoming a
metalworking project to fix it. May end up wrecking the locknut to get
it off and having to buy a replacement.

Ok. First thing you do is go to the Autozone and pick up a can of
PBlaster and hose it all down really well and let it set (barrel down)
over a rag or in a coffee can for a day or so.

It's soaked with Kroil overnight.


Then take a heat gun and slap some heat to it. Hair dryer will not get
hot enough.

I used the hair dryer because I didn't want to get it too hot. I can try
again with a heat gun and watch it with an IR thermometer.


Then try it while its nice and hot. And be sure you turn it in the
right direction. A little back and forth may help.

It's definitely a normal right hand type thread. There is just one
threaded section and the front brake / weight portion unscrewed just fine.


If it comes loose, remove it after recording your settings, make a
line/scratch or something..

It has the micrometer markings so you can record your settings. Indeed
the instructions have you bottom out the locknut and adjust the number
ring on the locknut to calibrate it, and that is where it is stuck,
bottomed out. There are no settings to record as this is a brand new gun
and next week will be my first opportunity to get out and sight it in.

then clean it up, and slopper some decent
high temp grease on the threads and screw it back together. Antiseize
compound is good too. The silver stuff at the Zone works well for this.

I've got anti-sieze for when I get it apart, but I shouldn't need it on
a brand new gun that's just sat in the safe for a few months.


Been shooting corrosive primers by any chance? Wolf?

Nope, not a damned thing through this BAR yet.


I cannot recall if its right or left hand thread. Check it out with a
magnifying glass if you can or read your manual..it might say.

Yep, normal right hand threads. The brake / weight section unscrewed
just fine in the expected direction.


http://media.browning.com/pdf/om/boss_02380_om_s.pdf


That may help. One assumes that you got the part with the holes.. off?

Yep, no issues there, just the locknut stuck.

Hummm...I wonder if the factory sent you a bad one. No rounds
fired?..or few?

I think Id take it to wherever you bought it. and see if they can move
it. That way if there is an issue..something breaks or gets scratched
up..its their fault and must correct it

One assumes that you have put a piece of rubber hose over the lock ring
and grabbed it with channel locks or even visegrips and tried reefing it
around?

Not 'vinyl tubing" but something a bit more rugged.?

Its possible that a burr was left during manufacturing..but..thats
damned poor quality control..damned poor.

But..Id try hitting it with something like a paint stripper/heat gun..
After all..after firing a number of rounds...that barrel is gonna get
HOT..hotter than a hair dryer is gonna get it.

Ive handled a number of such arms..and really like the BOSS system and
its variants, and as yet, havent found one that was stuck that tight.

I used some 1/8" hard rubber sheet and channel locks and the knurl just
chewed up the rubber. Eventually the Kroil and extra heat got it, but
the knurl did get a little blemished.

I didn't see any burs on it, everything looked fine. I think leaving it
sitting at zero it sort of wrung together like gauge blocks and took
some serious oomph to get it separated.

I'll just order another locknut Monday along with a couple of the nylon
lock strips and the BOSS CR. At least it's operational now.

Stuck BOSS...
 

On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 14:43:19 -0600, the infamous "Pete C."
scrawled the following:


I have a BOSS with the micrometer locknut stuck at the bottomed out zero
position. So far Kroil has not released it, nor has considerable torque
applied from channel locks via some 1/8" hard rubber to protect the
knurl.

Non-p/c application of freon 12 to the shaft with heated rubber pads
to the nut? (Keep it away from the plastic base.)

Have you tried moving it back and forth, alternating tightening and
loosening, while attempting to rotate the micrometer (? not familiar
with the Boss)? Sometimes moving both at once can rock it loose.

--
Some days, it's not even worth chewing through the restraints.

Stuck BOSS...
 

Might be able to use Dust-Off, just tip the can upside down
and spray liquid off the bottom. Propane torch for the heat?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Larry Jaques" wrote in
message ...
On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 14:43:19 -0600, the infamous "Pete C."
scrawled the following:


I have a BOSS with the micrometer locknut stuck at the
bottomed out zero
position. So far Kroil has not released it, nor has
considerable torque
applied from channel locks via some 1/8" hard rubber to
protect the
knurl.

Non-p/c application of freon 12 to the shaft with heated
rubber pads
to the nut? (Keep it away from the plastic base.)

Have you tried moving it back and forth, alternating
tightening and
loosening, while attempting to rotate the micrometer (? not
familiar
with the Boss)? Sometimes moving both at once can rock it
loose.

--
Some days, it's not even worth chewing through the
restraints.

Stuck BOSS...
 

Stormin Mormon wrote:

Might be able to use Dust-Off, just tip the can upside down
and spray liquid off the bottom. Propane torch for the heat?

It's off now, and I usually have liquid nitrogen on hand if I need to
cool stuff.

Stuck BOSS...
 

Liquid nitrogen probably cheaper than dustuff, if you have
the tanks and such, already.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Pete C." wrote in message
ster.com...

Stormin Mormon wrote:

Might be able to use Dust-Off, just tip the can upside
down
and spray liquid off the bottom. Propane torch for the
heat?

It's off now, and I usually have liquid nitrogen on hand if
I need to
cool stuff.

Stuck BOSS...
 

Stormin Mormon wrote:

Liquid nitrogen probably cheaper than dustuff, if you have
the tanks and such, already.

Cheaper and colder. $1/liter for -328F or so.