I just added a short webpage about electrolytic rust removal.
As you all know, there's lots of info about it around the web. If
you don't know about it, google: "electrolytic rust removal" and you
will see lots of stuff including some U-tube videos.

The main reason I did this is to show some "before and after" pix to
help you decide whether this process is for you or not and to add a few
comments:


http://www.spaco.org/Blacksmithing/R...cDerusting.htm

Pete Stanaitis
------------------------

I thought is WAS clean!

Pete Stanaitis
------------------

Proctologically Violated©® wrote:
Oh yeah, Dude, clean up yer shop!

spaco wrote:
I just added a short webpage about electrolytic rust removal.
As you all know, there's lots of info about it around the web. If you
don't know about it, google: "electrolytic rust removal" and you will
see lots of stuff including some U-tube videos.

The main reason I did this is to show some "before and after" pix to
help you decide whether this process is for you or not and to add a few
comments:


http://www.spaco.org/Blacksmithing/R...cDerusting.htm

Pete Stanaitis
------------------------
Do NOT use stainless steel electrodes - you'll get a yellow or orange
tinge to the electrolyte indicating the presence of hexavalen Chromium
which made Erin brockovich famous. /mark

spaco wrote:
I just added a short webpage about electrolytic rust removal.
As you all know, there's lots of info about it around the web. If you
don't know about it, google: "electrolytic rust removal" and you will
see lots of stuff including some U-tube videos.

The main reason I did this is to show some "before and after" pix to
help you decide whether this process is for you or not and to add a few
comments:


http://www.spaco.org/Blacksmithing/R...cDerusting.htm

Pete Stanaitis
------------------------

Pete
Lots of good information there.
I will be sending links to friends and family.

thanks for sharing.

Rex

RBnDFW wrote:
spaco wrote:
I just added a short webpage about electrolytic rust removal.
As you all know, there's lots of info about it around the web. If
you don't know about it, google: "electrolytic rust removal" and you
will see lots of stuff including some U-tube videos.

The main reason I did this is to show some "before and after" pix to
help you decide whether this process is for you or not and to add a
few comments:


http://www.spaco.org/Blacksmithing/R...cDerusting.htm

Pete Stanaitis
------------------------

Pete
Lots of good information there.
I will be sending links to friends and family.

thanks for sharing.

Rex

http://www.instructables.com/id/E17U...T2A5Z?ALLSTEPS

http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/ru..._derusting.htm

http://www.antique-engines.com/electrol.asp

For even more info.
Oh and for folks who cannot find "Washing Soda" you can buy the same
thing at a pool supply place as PH Plus. Wal~Mart even has it!

--
Steve W.

spaco wrote:
I just added a short webpage about electrolytic rust removal.
As you all know, there's lots of info about it around the web. If you
don't know about it, google: "electrolytic rust removal" and you will
see lots of stuff including some U-tube videos.

The main reason I did this is to show some "before and after" pix to
help you decide whether this process is for you or not and to add a few
comments:


http://www.spaco.org/Blacksmithing/R...cDerusting.htm

Pete Stanaitis
------------------------

a good way of rust removal,
thought Id comment that I do it another way as I dont have constant
leccy off the grid.. To run a charger.
My interest is is in rust removal from wrought iron, ie iron that
been made by the reduction process the way metallic iron was made from
iron ore before the bessemer process was invented in 1866/7.
I collect old iron implements made from wrought iron and to remove the
rust, i first heat to a dull red heat to crack off the heavy scale, then
i use a plastic bucket or suitably sized container to hold the iron
object, then i fill the container to cover the iron with old battery acid.
This i get from our local scrap yard by the 5 gallon full for free.
so it works by itself. Obviously you need to use common sense
handling this stuff, Its not dangerous from the odd drop if you wash off
right away, tho if you get splashes on your jeans ,next time you wash
them youll get holes where the splashes were.
On wrought iron it eats off the rust and some of the iron so when you
remove it from the acid, neutralise with wash up liquid in water, wire
brush aand dry off you will see the original grain structure of the
wrought work.
It looks some times like the grain in wood and when oiled up or waxed
is very beautiful to look at.
i aquired a 90lb silversmiths T stake made about 1800 from wrought iron
with crucible steel fire welded to the top face and its nice enough as
an ornament in my sitting room, even tho its a really useful part of my
silversmiths workshop.
I use battery acid in large amounts anyway to pickle all my silver and
other non ferrous brazed work.
There is a much more powerful pickle called bright dip.
its
70 parts concentrated nitric acid
200 parts ditto sulfuric acid
140 parts of water
1 level teaspoon of common table salt.
all by volume not weight.

if you waqnt to go down this route you need to do a lot of research on
methodology fume cupboards protective face and clothing etc.

have fun
ted
dorset
UK.

Steve W. wrote:
RBnDFW wrote:
spaco wrote:
I just added a short webpage about electrolytic rust removal.
As you all know, there's lots of info about it around the web. If
you don't know about it, google: "electrolytic rust removal" and you
will see lots of stuff including some U-tube videos.

The main reason I did this is to show some "before and after" pix to
help you decide whether this process is for you or not and to add a
few comments:


http://www.spaco.org/Blacksmithing/R...cDerusting.htm

Pete Stanaitis
------------------------
Pete
Lots of good information there.
I will be sending links to friends and family.

thanks for sharing.

Rex

http://www.instructables.com/id/E17U...T2A5Z?ALLSTEPS

http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/ru..._derusting.htm

http://www.antique-engines.com/electrol.asp

For even more info.
Oh and for folks who cannot find "Washing Soda" you can buy the same
thing at a pool supply place as PH Plus. Wal~Mart even has it!

Not to rain on your electrolytic parade, but I haven't used ED since I
found Evaporust. Much less fussy.

If you want to make new steel look like it has been rusting for a
long time with deep pits, reverse the polarity and stew it for
half a day or so.

I was experimenting to remove plating on a scrap
piece and left it in like for derusting. It works much faster than
derusting.

This might be useful for getting an old corroded look in a hurry.

It really makes a horrible mess too.



On Aug 19, 11:17*am, spaco wrote:
I just added a short webpage about electrolytic rust removal.
* *As you all know, there's lots of info about it around the web. *If
you don't know about it, google: *"electrolytic rust removal" and you
will see lots of stuff including some U-tube videos.

The main reason I did this is to show some "before and after" pix to
help you decide whether this process is for you or not *and to add a few
comments:

http://www.spaco.org/Blacksmithing/R...cDerusting.htm

Pete Stanaitis
------------------------

On Thu, 20 Aug 2009 14:33:23 -0500, RBnDFW
wrote:

Not to rain on your electrolytic parade, but I haven't used ED since I
found Evaporust. Much less fussy.

Cool looking stuff, but the shipping cost adds more than 50%
additional. Wish there was a distributor near me.

One claim on the company web site that I especially liked was:
"EVAPO-RUST has an indefinite shelf life and can be used over and over
until it absolutely stops working."
So, it works until it won't work anymore - hmmm. Methinks they need a
better copy writer.

Joe

On Fri, 21 Aug 2009 09:46:22 -0400, Joe wrote:

On Thu, 20 Aug 2009 14:33:23 -0500, RBnDFW
wrote:

Not to rain on your electrolytic parade, but I haven't used ED since I
found Evaporust. Much less fussy.

Cool looking stuff, but the shipping cost adds more than 50%
additional. Wish there was a distributor near me.

One claim on the company web site that I especially liked was:
"EVAPO-RUST has an indefinite shelf life and can be used over and over
until it absolutely stops working."
So, it works until it won't work anymore - hmmm. Methinks they need a
better copy writer.

Joe

I just found out that our local HF store carries it - 20 bucks a
gallon (plus whatever it takes to keep Gov. Mark Sanford happy, now
that his wealthy wife has moved out).

Thanks for the heads-up, Rex

Joe

On Wed, 19 Aug 2009 10:17:45 -0500, spaco
wrote:

I just added a short webpage about electrolytic rust removal.
As you all know, there's lots of info about it around the web. If
you don't know about it, google: "electrolytic rust removal" and you
will see lots of stuff including some U-tube videos.

The main reason I did this is to show some "before and after" pix to
help you decide whether this process is for you or not and to add a few
comments:


http://www.spaco.org/Blacksmithing/R...cDerusting.htm

Pete Stanaitis
------------------------

Very well done! Bravo Sir!


Whenever a Liberal utters the term "Common Sense approach"....grab your
wallet, your ass, and your guns because the sombitch is about to do
something damned nasty to all three of them.

RBnDFW wrote:
Not to rain on your electrolytic parade, but I haven't used ED since I
found Evaporust. Much less fussy.

Let's see: $20/gal + shipping or $4/gal for muriatic acid, available
everywhere. Can it be that much better? Muriatic acid takes off the
rust, what more do you want?

Bob

Joe wrote:
On Thu, 20 Aug 2009 14:33:23 -0500, RBnDFW
wrote:

Not to rain on your electrolytic parade, but I haven't used ED since I
found Evaporust. Much less fussy.

Cool looking stuff, but the shipping cost adds more than 50%
additional. Wish there was a distributor near me.

One claim on the company web site that I especially liked was:
"EVAPO-RUST has an indefinite shelf life and can be used over and over
until it absolutely stops working."
So, it works until it won't work anymore - hmmm. Methinks they need a
better copy writer.

Well, it gets pretty nasty-looking after it's removed a lot of rust.
I've never kept any until it absolutely QUIT working.

Bob Engelhardt wrote:
RBnDFW wrote:
Not to rain on your electrolytic parade, but I haven't used ED since I
found Evaporust. Much less fussy.

Let's see: $20/gal + shipping or $4/gal for muriatic acid, available
everywhere. Can it be that much better? Muriatic acid takes off the
rust, what more do you want?

Can you leave your part in for two weeks without checking it?
My shop is 30 miles from home.
Sometimes I get tied up and can't get back out there when I thought I could.

It's expensive, but it's idiot-proof.
I need that.


Now if we make this newsgroup idiot-proof....

"Bob Engelhardt" wrote :
: Let's see: $20/gal + shipping or $4/gal for muriatic acid, available
: everywhere. Can it be that much better? Muriatic acid takes off the
: rust, what more do you want?

Muriatic acid fumes cause rust to form at an incredible pace so if you
use it to derust you should do it outside and not store the acid anywhere
near anything you don't want an overnight coating of rust to form on.
Art

Joe wrote in
:

On Fri, 21 Aug 2009 09:46:22 -0400, Joe wrote:

On Thu, 20 Aug 2009 14:33:23 -0500, RBnDFW
wrote:

Not to rain on your electrolytic parade, but I haven't used ED since I
found Evaporust. Much less fussy.

Cool looking stuff, but the shipping cost adds more than 50%
additional. Wish there was a distributor near me.

One claim on the company web site that I especially liked was:
"EVAPO-RUST has an indefinite shelf life and can be used over and over
until it absolutely stops working."
So, it works until it won't work anymore - hmmm. Methinks they need a
better copy writer.

Joe

I just found out that our local HF store carries it - 20 bucks a
gallon (plus whatever it takes to keep Gov. Mark Sanford happy, now
that his wealthy wife has moved out).

It's also available at AutoZone stores, which are all over the place.
It's more expensive, but available in smaller amounts: 32 oz. for 9
bucks.

Doug White

RBnDFW wrote:
...
Now if we make this newsgroup idiot-proof....

*That* would be worth $20/gal + shipping!! G Bob

Red wrote:
Muriatic acid fumes cause rust to form at an incredible pace so if you
use it to derust you should do it outside and not store the acid anywhere
near anything you don't want an overnight coating of rust to form on.

Yep.