Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Default How to move a Bridgeport

This has been asked here before, but it's been awhile.

Series II machine. Not sure of table length.

I'd be alone.

Not on palette in photo.

How much does a Series II machine weigh?


Would a lift truck handle the weight?

Is there a better option than a lift truck?

What do I need to rent to pick it up and get it on the truck?

The opening in my shop door is 35" wide.

Obviously I've got to take off the table. How do you do that?

How heavy is the table?

What am I missing?

What should a bare Series II machine with a broken table drive, but
all else, including DRO working sell for? I don't know backlash on
feed screws or looseness of table at this point. Can't get away to
see it this weekend, but if it's still around, maybe the next weekend.

TIA - RWL

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Default How to move a Bridgeport

The easiest is to get a flatbed trailer and a forklift. Bridgeport
manual explains how to lift it safely.

i

On 2008-09-19, GeoLane at PTD dot NET GeoLane wrote:
This has been asked here before, but it's been awhile.

Series II machine. Not sure of table length.

I'd be alone.

Not on palette in photo.

How much does a Series II machine weigh?


Would a lift truck handle the weight?

Is there a better option than a lift truck?

What do I need to rent to pick it up and get it on the truck?

The opening in my shop door is 35" wide.

Obviously I've got to take off the table. How do you do that?

How heavy is the table?

What am I missing?

What should a bare Series II machine with a broken table drive, but
all else, including DRO working sell for? I don't know backlash on
feed screws or looseness of table at this point. Can't get away to
see it this weekend, but if it's still around, maybe the next weekend.

TIA - RWL


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Default How to move a Bridgeport

GeoLane at PTD dot NET wrote:
This has been asked here before, but it's been awhile.

Series II machine. Not sure of table length.

I'd be alone.

Not on palette in photo.

How much does a Series II machine weigh?


Would a lift truck handle the weight?

Is there a better option than a lift truck?

What do I need to rent to pick it up and get it on the truck?

The opening in my shop door is 35" wide.

Obviously I've got to take off the table. How do you do that?

How heavy is the table?

What am I missing?

What should a bare Series II machine with a broken table drive, but
all else, including DRO working sell for? I don't know backlash on
feed screws or looseness of table at this point. Can't get away to
see it this weekend, but if it's still around, maybe the next weekend.

TIA - RWL


I'm not sure what the series 2 is but my belt change BP went through a
2' 6" doorway with the 42" x 9" table in place. I just wound the table
all the way to one end, then angled the BP so the table could be wound
all the way to the other end through the doorway, then pushed the BP
through. The base being about 24" wide it was no problem. The BP was
being moved on flat concrete on 1" diameter steel bars and a pry bar.
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Default How to move a Bridgeport

GeoLane at PTD dot NET wrote:
This has been asked here before, but it's been awhile.

Series II machine. Not sure of table length.

OK, I gather this is a Series-II manual machine, that should weigh
around 3500 Lbs.

A 35" door sounds like a problem. I've moved a Series-I through a
narrow door, the trick is to angle one end of the table through, crank
the table to the other end and swing the rest of the machine through.
I can't say for sure, but I suspect the Series-II will NOT make it
through a 35" door without removing the table. Taking the table off a
Series-I is fairly easy. I guess since this isn't a BOSS (CNC) machine,
it should be about the same. Remove right side handle and power feed
box. The feed should slide off the end, use left handle to crank the
table until it runs out of screw threads. Remove screw and the bearing
bracket. Use an engine hoist and lifting straps to support the table,
and slide the rest of the way off.
The gib may fall out, make sure to secure it before you move anything
else. If you don't have an engine hoist, use a STURDY table, and crank
the knee to match the height of the table. I'd guess a Series-II table
is about 500 Lbs. Also, the Series-II is very tall, at least 7 feet
(CNC is even taller).

I think only the VERY biggest lift-gate trucks could handle a Bridgeport
Series-II. Also, check the doorway height, the machine might not fit
through!

Value is so dependent on condition and features, I can't begin to
comment. The specific spindle taper and head also makes a difference.

Jon
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Default How to move a Bridgeport

David Billington wrote:

I'm not sure what the series 2 is but my belt change BP went through a
2' 6" doorway with the 42" x 9" table in place. I just wound the table
all the way to one end, then angled the BP so the table could be wound
all the way to the other end through the doorway, then pushed the BP
through. The base being about 24" wide it was no problem. The BP was
being moved on flat concrete on 1" diameter steel bars and a pry bar.

The Series-II Bridgeport is a totally different machine, and MUCH larger
than the traditional (Series-I) machines everybody thinks of first. It
is about 7 feet tall, weighs 3500 Lbs or so in the manual version and
much more as a CNC. The manual machine has 15" of Y travel, the
Series-I only 12". Everything is scaled up bigger. The knee ways are
box ways instead of dovetail.

Jon


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Default How to move a Bridgeport

Jon Elson wrote:
David Billington wrote:

I'm not sure what the series 2 is but my belt change BP went through
a 2' 6" doorway with the 42" x 9" table in place. I just wound the
table all the way to one end, then angled the BP so the table could
be wound all the way to the other end through the doorway, then
pushed the BP through. The base being about 24" wide it was no
problem. The BP was being moved on flat concrete on 1" diameter steel
bars and a pry bar.

The Series-II Bridgeport is a totally different machine, and MUCH
larger than the traditional (Series-I) machines everybody thinks of
first. It is about 7 feet tall, weighs 3500 Lbs or so in the manual
version and much more as a CNC. The manual machine has 15" of Y
travel, the Series-I only 12". Everything is scaled up bigger. The
knee ways are box ways instead of dovetail.

Jon

Jon,

Thanks, I was shortly going to look up the series 2 to see what it was
but you comment brings back some memories suggesting it is a much larger
machine.
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Default How to move a Bridgeport

Jon Elson wrote:

The Series-II Bridgeport is a totally different machine, and MUCH larger
than the traditional (Series-I) machines everybody thinks of first. It
is about 7 feet tall, weighs 3500 Lbs or so in the manual version and
much more as a CNC. The manual machine has 15" of Y travel, the
Series-I only 12". Everything is scaled up bigger. The knee ways are
box ways instead of dovetail.


We have one like that but it is labeled a Series II Special. What makes it special other
than being a bigger BP?

Wes
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On 2008-09-19, GeoLane at PTD dot NET GeoLane wrote:
This has been asked here before, but it's been awhile.

Series II machine. Not sure of table length.

I'd be alone.

Not on palette in photo.

How much does a Series II machine weigh?


That depends on various things -- such as whether it is a CNC
machine or not.

Just as a staring point, a Series I (not your Series II) with
the BOSS-3 CNC configuration weighs in at about 3500 pounds. Not
exactly a feather. :-) But the machine's own weight is augmented by the
big stepper motors, the ball-screws, and the massive collection of
transformers (and mag amps) in the housing on the back. I would just
guess (with *no* firm knowledge) that a manual Series II might be about
the same weight as a CNC Series I.

Would a lift truck handle the weight?


My Series I was delivered on a flatbed truck, and needed a
rental fork lift to get it off the truck and up to my garage.

Is there a better option than a lift truck?


A flatbed truck -- and a fork lift at each end.

Or perhaps a tilt-bed wrecker.

What do I need to rent to pick it up and get it on the truck?


It needs to be on a good strong pallet.

if the truck is anything other than a tilt-bed wrecker, I think
that a fork lift is the only way to go.

The opening in my shop door is 35" wide.

Obviously I've got to take off the table. How do you do that?


Maybe not. I have read reports of people working a mill through
a narrow door by running the table all the way to one side, sticking the
base and the near end of the table through at a bit of an angle,
cranking the table all the way to the other side (so the bulk of the
table is now inside) and moving the mill the rest of the way through the
door. Not sure whether this will be possible with your size of door and
a Series II (I know that they are bigger than my Series I, but I don't
know how much bigger), but if the base will go through the door with a
few extra inches to spare to allow coming in at an angle, you might be
able to make it with the table in place.

How heavy is the table?


You don't want to know! :-) To remove it, I think that it would
need a hydraulic table on each side to support it and jack it up the
vertical ways while you remove the tapered gibs and get it totally
clear. I think that a fork lift would be the better choice there too --
except that if you are having trouble getting the mill through the door,
the same applies to the fork lift. Hmm ... perhaps a pallet jack?

What am I missing?


A bigger door.

What should a bare Series II machine with a broken table drive, but
all else, including DRO working sell for?


Sorry -- I don't know. It has been too many years since I
bought mine, and it was a Series I, with a very obsolete CNC setup.

I don't know backlash on
feed screws or looseness of table at this point. Can't get away to
see it this weekend, but if it's still around, maybe the next weekend.


Good Luck,
DoN.

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Default How to move a Bridgeport

On Fri, 19 Sep 2008 10:00:38 -0500, Jon Elson
wrote:

GeoLane at PTD dot NET wrote:
This has been asked here before, but it's been awhile.

Series II machine. Not sure of table length.


OK, I gather this is a Series-II manual machine, that should weigh
around 3500 Lbs.

A 35" door sounds like a problem. I've moved a Series-I through a
narrow door, the trick is to angle one end of the table through, crank
the table to the other end and swing the rest of the machine through.
I can't say for sure, but I suspect the Series-II will NOT make it
through a 35" door without removing the table.


Thanks for all of the comments. I didn't realize the Series II was
substantially bigger. I have not seen the machine other than in
photos, but it sounds like it's not worth the trip to actually see it
(abt 2 hours). Guess I'll wait till there's a Series I within
reasonable driving distance.

I'm starting to watch the eBay sales to get a better feel for price.
Wish I'd lived closer to Bridgeport, CT. A well tooled Series I that
looked to be in unusally good condition went for $2200 yesterday.

Thanks for the comments. If there are any more suggestions though,
keep them coming.

RWL

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On Fri, 19 Sep 2008 23:43:57 -0400, GeoLane at PTD dot NET GeoLane at
PTD dot NET wrote:

On Fri, 19 Sep 2008 10:00:38 -0500, Jon Elson
wrote:

GeoLane at PTD dot NET wrote:
This has been asked here before, but it's been awhile.

Series II machine. Not sure of table length.


OK, I gather this is a Series-II manual machine, that should weigh
around 3500 Lbs.

A 35" door sounds like a problem. I've moved a Series-I through a
narrow door, the trick is to angle one end of the table through, crank
the table to the other end and swing the rest of the machine through.
I can't say for sure, but I suspect the Series-II will NOT make it
through a 35" door without removing the table.


Thanks for all of the comments. I didn't realize the Series II was
substantially bigger. I have not seen the machine other than in
photos, but it sounds like it's not worth the trip to actually see it
(abt 2 hours). Guess I'll wait till there's a Series I within
reasonable driving distance.

I'm starting to watch the eBay sales to get a better feel for price.
Wish I'd lived closer to Bridgeport, CT. A well tooled Series I that
looked to be in unusally good condition went for $2200 yesterday.

Thanks for the comments. If there are any more suggestions though,
keep them coming.

RWL


Look around for a Lagun. A superior machine to the Bridgeport, in my
opinion.

Id rather have a Lagun that a Bridgeport, conditon being equal

Gunner, machine tool mechanic



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Default How to move a Bridgeport

"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

Would a lift truck handle the weight?


My Series I was delivered on a flatbed truck, and needed a
rental fork lift to get it off the truck and up to my garage.


I brought my series I home on a light utility trailer. Head, ram, turret base inside
capper on top of a F150 truck.

http://wess.freeshell.org/usenet/rec...C02979_vga.jpg

About 1500# as pictured.

The head, ram, and turret go at leawst 450#

Wes
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This my experience with the smaller Bridgeport:

http://www.truetex.com/movebpt.htm
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Wes wrote:
Jon Elson wrote:

The Series-II Bridgeport is a totally different machine, and MUCH larger
than the traditional (Series-I) machines everybody thinks of first. It
is about 7 feet tall, weighs 3500 Lbs or so in the manual version and
much more as a CNC. The manual machine has 15" of Y travel, the
Series-I only 12". Everything is scaled up bigger. The knee ways are
box ways instead of dovetail.


We have one like that but it is labeled a Series II Special. What makes it special other
than being a bigger BP?

The special doesn't refer to size, but something else. Did it have the
T ram? That allows you to mount multiple heads on the T, side by side.
Often used with a tracer control, but it can also be used manually to
make 2 or 3 parts at once.
It may also just have a special head, with different speed ranges or
whatever.

Jon
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Default How to move a Bridgeport

GeoLane at PTD dot NET wrote:

Thanks for all of the comments. I didn't realize the Series II was
substantially bigger. I have not seen the machine other than in
photos, but it sounds like it's not worth the trip to actually see it
(abt 2 hours). Guess I'll wait till there's a Series I within
reasonable driving distance.

If you can handle moving it and housing it, the Series-II is a better
machine for about 5 reasons. I can't handle the height in my basement,
so I'm just out of luck. They also often go cheaper as most home shops
don't have the room, height or whatever for them.

Jon
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On Sun, 21 Sep 2008 22:52:02 -0500,

GeoLane at PTD dot NET wrote:
Thanks for all of the comments. I didn't realize the Series II was
substantially bigger.


Jon Elson wrote:

If you can handle moving it and housing it, the Series-II is a better
machine for about 5 reasons. I can't handle the height in my basement,
so I'm just out of luck. They also often go cheaper as most home shops
don't have the room, height or whatever for them.

Jon



Technically I have about 1" of height to spare - the machine is 92 ¾"
high and I have 94", BUT it would be difficult to tilt the head right
or left without hitting the ceiling joists. If it was located between
the joists, I could probably nod the head without difficulty.

Probably wouldn't fit through my 35" wide cellar door without
dissassembly, and

Spindle is Erickson #40. I don't recall seeing Erickson #40 stuff for
sale in the catalogs like I see sales on R8 tooling. I see CAT 40
tooling for sale on eBay, but I don't know if that's the same as
Erickson #40.

RWL



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On 2008-09-23, GeoLane at PTD dot NET GeoLane wrote:

[ ... ]

Technically I have about 1" of height to spare - the machine is 92 ¾"
high and I have 94", BUT it would be difficult to tilt the head right
or left without hitting the ceiling joists. If it was located between
the joists, I could probably nod the head without difficulty.


O.K.

Probably wouldn't fit through my 35" wide cellar door without
dissassembly, and


And the problem then becomes where to get the room to
*re*assemble it indoors. :-) In particular, the, getting the motor back
into the head. (The CNC version of the Series-I has the motor (a
pancake three-phase one) *under* the casting, so there is a little more
room, but it is still a real pain to install.

Spindle is Erickson #40. I don't recall seeing Erickson #40 stuff for
sale in the catalogs like I see sales on R8 tooling. I see CAT 40
tooling for sale on eBay, but I don't know if that's the same as
Erickson #40.


Look for NTMB 40 (or is it NMTB?) That is the same as the
Erickson. These have a flat flange with a pair of notches to engage
keys on the spindle (and to be clamped by the Erickson quick-change
spindle). The CAT-40 (or any of the CAT series) are designed for
automatic tool changers. The flange is thicker and has a V-groove in
it to be gripped by the changer. The two grooves through the flange are
different width, to allow the tool to always go back in the same
relationship to the spindle -- even with a machine handling it. In
place of a socket for a possible drawbar (not needed with the Erickson
quick-change spindle) there is a ball screwed into the back which is
gripped by a special collet to pull the holder into the spindle.

I have turned a CAT 30 taper flange down to work in an Erickson
quick-change spindle on a Series-I Bridgeport, but I haven't put much
use on it yet.

For *my* use of 40-taper tooling, they *all* work. The actual
taper part is the same for all (with one cam-locking version having a
scoop out one side which is not enough to keep it from working in the my
spindle. This is in the Nichols horizontal mill with a drawbar. For
the CAT 40 ones I apply heat with a propane torch to release the Loctite
and unscrew the ball stud, then I turn up an extension to screw into it
and to accept the drawbar just as the NTMB-40 does. This lets me pick
and choose from eBay to fill out strange sizes at need. I also have a
step-down from 40-taper to 30-taper to let me use holders for the
Bridgeport in the Nichols. (No way to go the other direction, however. :-)

But for the Erickson -- the NTMB flange is the right
thickness, and it all works (based on my 30-taper experience). That
thickness is critical for the lock collar to work properly.

Good Luck,
DoN.

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Jon Elson wrote:

We have one like that but it is labeled a Series II Special. What makes it special other
than being a bigger BP?

The special doesn't refer to size, but something else. Did it have the
T ram? That allows you to mount multiple heads on the T, side by side.
Often used with a tracer control, but it can also be used manually to
make 2 or 3 parts at once.
It may also just have a special head, with different speed ranges or
whatever.



Just looks like a big bridgeport. 12inch x ? table. Box ways, 2HP varidrive, R8 spindle.

Wes
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