I am wanting to build a 24x30 pole barn garage. (Runnign out of room).
If I use a 5/12 pitch roof, what is the length of the other side? (I
am trying to determine the survae area of the roof to see if roofing
metal or shingles would be cheaper. I can get metal for 3 dollars a
foot.

Also, instead of purchasing trusses, could I just make a 2x4 ridge
board and run 2x4 rafters down from that?

Thanks!

stryped fired this volley in news:80401bcf-e992-
:

I am wanting to build a 24x30 pole barn garage. (Runnign out of room).
If I use a 5/12 pitch roof, what is the length of the other side? (I
am trying to determine the survae area of the roof to see if roofing
metal or shingles would be cheaper. I can get metal for 3 dollars a
foot.

Also, instead of purchasing trusses, could I just make a 2x4 ridge
board and run 2x4 rafters down from that?

Thanks!


5-in-12 is 13 feet on the slope. Add about 12" either end for overhang,
if you want it, and rake-end eaves of 12".

So, your 24x30 barn is really 32' long, and the slopes are 14'. With
standard 5-vee tin (24" wide), that's 32 14' sheets. For standing-rib
galvalume (36" wide), it's 22 sheets, and the rake-end eaves need to be
18" instead of 12" to make it all work out without cutting.

sqrt(rise^2 + run^2) = sqrt(5^2+12^2) = sqrt(25+144) = sqrt(169) = 13

Pythagorean Theorem.

However, any framing square has the math "built in", as it were. Just
strike a line from 5" on one leg to 12" on the other (or 10 and 24), and
measure the line you made. (13 or 26).

LLoyd

stryped fired this volley in news:80401bcf-e992-
:

Also, instead of purchasing trusses, could I just make a 2x4 ridge
board and run 2x4 rafters down from that?

Forgot to answer that part:

You can, but you need collar ties between the rim beams to hold the ridge
up (think "ceiling rafters"). Remember that a ridge board doesn't hold
_anything_ up unless it's on center-posts, it is _held_up_ by the
rafters, which, if allowed to spread at the walls, will sag. Ridge
boards are just convenient nailing surfaces for the rafter tops, and a
way to longitudinally brace the rafters at the same time.

For that small a job, I'd be tempted to make up my own trusses with
gusset-glue-n-nail. They're not code anywhere anymore, but simple to
make, and plenty strong enough for a simple pole barn.

By the time you get a ridge board and all those collar ties in place,
you'd have spent more than for trusses.

LLoyd

On Jul 30, 8:45*am, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
stryped fired this volley in news:80401bcf-e992-
:

Also, instead of purchasing trusses, could I just make a 2x4 ridge
board and run 2x4 rafters down from that?

Forgot to answer that part:

You can, but you need collar ties between the rim beams to hold the ridge
up (think "ceiling rafters"). *Remember that a ridge board doesn't hold
_anything_ up unless it's on center-posts, it is _held_up_ by the
rafters, which, if allowed to spread at the walls, will sag. *Ridge
boards are just convenient nailing surfaces for the rafter tops, and a
way to longitudinally brace the rafters at the same time.

For that small a job, I'd be tempted to make up my own trusses with
gusset-glue-n-nail. *They're not code anywhere anymore, but simple to
make, and plenty strong enough for a simple pole barn.

By the time you get a ridge board and all those collar ties in place,
you'd have spent more than for trusses.

LLoyd

How would i go about making my own trusses like that?

stryped fired this volley in
:

On Jul 30, 8:45*am, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
stryped fired this volley in
news:80401bcf-e992-
:

Also, instead of purchasing trusses, could I just make a 2x4 ridge
board and run 2x4 rafters down from that?

Forgot to answer that part:

You can, but you need collar ties between the rim beams to hold the
ridge up (think "ceiling rafters"). *Remember that a ridge board
doesn't hold _anything_ up unless it's on center-posts, it is
_held_up_ by the rafters, which, if allowed to spread at the walls,
will sag. *Ridge boards are just convenient nailing surfaces for the
rafter tops, and a way to longitudinally brace the rafters at the
same time.

For that small a job, I'd be tempted to make up my own trusses with
gusset-glue-n-nail. *They're not code anywhere anymore, but simple to
make, and plenty strong enough for a simple pole barn.

By the time you get a ridge board and all those collar ties in place,
you'd have spent more than for trusses.

LLoyd

How would i go about making my own trusses like that?


If you're going to have a slab in the barn, it's extra-easy. You just
build a jig on the floor, and assemble them one-at-a-time; then stack 'em
up outside until you get them all built.

Standard truss designs for that short a span are all over the web. A
quick search will turn up several. If that doesn't satisfy, get a book,
or buy ONE truss from a truss yard that has some leftovers, and copy it.

Or just buy unclaimed trusses of WHATEVER length they happen to have
lying around, and re-plan your barn size accordingly. That's a popular
option with pole barn builders, and leftovers can usually be had cheaply.

LLoyd

On Jul 30, 10:16*am, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
stryped fired this volley :





On Jul 30, 8:45*am, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
stryped fired this volley in
news:80401bcf-e992-
:

Also, instead of purchasing trusses, could I just make a 2x4 ridge
board and run 2x4 rafters down from that?

Forgot to answer that part:

You can, but you need collar ties between the rim beams to hold the
ridge up (think "ceiling rafters"). *Remember that a ridge board
doesn't hold _anything_ up unless it's on center-posts, it is
_held_up_ by the rafters, which, if allowed to spread at the walls,
will sag. *Ridge boards are just convenient nailing surfaces for the
rafter tops, and a way to longitudinally brace the rafters at the
same time.

For that small a job, I'd be tempted to make up my own trusses with
gusset-glue-n-nail. *They're not code anywhere anymore, but simple to
make, and plenty strong enough for a simple pole barn.

By the time you get a ridge board and all those collar ties in place,
you'd have spent more than for trusses.

LLoyd

How would i go about making my own trusses like that?

If you're going to have a slab in the barn, it's extra-easy. *You just
build a jig on the floor, and assemble them one-at-a-time; then stack 'em
up outside until you get them all built.

Standard truss designs for that short a span are all over the web. *A
quick search will turn up several. *If that doesn't satisfy, get a book,
or buy ONE truss from a truss yard that has some leftovers, and copy it.

Or just buy unclaimed trusses of WHATEVER length they happen to have
lying around, and re-plan your barn size accordingly. *That's a popular
option with pole barn builders, and leftovers can usually be had cheaply.

LLoyd- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Unfortunately, I dont have the money for a slab right now, I have to
stick with gravel.

I am open to changing the dimensions, but I live in a smaller town and
dont thing I could find some "unused" trusses.

Trusses typically have been too cheap to build your own, on a building that
size.
I'd price them before you commit to making your own.


"stryped" wrote in message
...
I am wanting to build a 24x30 pole barn garage. (Runnign out of room).
If I use a 5/12 pitch roof, what is the length of the other side? (I
am trying to determine the survae area of the roof to see if roofing
metal or shingles would be cheaper. I can get metal for 3 dollars a
foot.

Also, instead of purchasing trusses, could I just make a 2x4 ridge
board and run 2x4 rafters down from that?

Thanks!

"Jon" wrote in message
news:sc0kk.488$JH5.231@trnddc06...
Trusses typically have been too cheap to build your own, on a building
that size.
I'd price them before you commit to making your own.


Be sure to factor in the delivery costs if they have to be trucked in.

If they have to be trucked in from more than 50 miles away, the delivery fee
may get a bit stiff.

"RAM³" wrote in message
...
"Jon" wrote in message
news:sc0kk.488$JH5.231@trnddc06...
Trusses typically have been too cheap to build your own, on a building
that size.
I'd price them before you commit to making your own.


Be sure to factor in the delivery costs if they have to be trucked in.

If they have to be trucked in from more than 50 miles away, the delivery
fee may get a bit stiff.

you don't say where in the world you are, but you might look on your
craigslist. here's one from today near me

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/mat/775000139.html

regards,
charlie
cave creek, az

On Jul 30, 12:16*pm, "charlie"
wrote:
"RAM³" wrote in message

...

"Jon" wrote in message
news:sc0kk.488$JH5.231@trnddc06...
Trusses typically have been too cheap to build your own, on a building
that size.
I'd price them before you commit to making your own.

Be sure to factor in the delivery costs if they have to be trucked in.

If they have to be trucked in from more than 50 miles away, the delivery
fee may get a bit stiff.

you don't say where in the world you are, but you might look on your
craigslist. here's one from today near me

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/mat/775000139.html

regards,
charlie
cave creek, az

I live near Nashville Tennessee

Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:

stryped fired this volley in news:80401bcf-e992-
:


Also, instead of purchasing trusses, could I just make a 2x4 ridge
board and run 2x4 rafters down from that?


Forgot to answer that part:

You can, but you need collar ties between the rim beams to hold the ridge
up (think "ceiling rafters"). Remember that a ridge board doesn't hold
_anything_ up unless it's on center-posts, it is _held_up_ by the
rafters, which, if allowed to spread at the walls, will sag. Ridge
boards are just convenient nailing surfaces for the rafter tops, and a
way to longitudinally brace the rafters at the same time.

For that small a job, I'd be tempted to make up my own trusses with
gusset-glue-n-nail. They're not code anywhere anymore, but simple to
make, and plenty strong enough for a simple pole barn.

By the time you get a ridge board and all those collar ties in place,
you'd have spent more than for trusses.

LLoyd

I built one about 30 years ago. Built my own trusses just as Lloyd said.
Used SYP (Southern Yellow Pine) on 2 ft centers used that Onduline
stuff for the sides and roof. Had to replace it a few years ago.
this time used V grove steel. Posts are 4 x 6 on 10 ft ctrs.
Square is a pair of 2 x 10. Forget what the spacing of the purlins
is and its in PA while I'm in NM so cant go out and look. :-)
...lew...

stryped wrote:
For that small a job, I'd be tempted to make up my own trusses with
gusset-glue-n-nail. They're not code anywhere anymore, but simple to
make, and plenty strong enough for a simple pole barn.


How would i go about making my own trusses like that?

I set up a place in an old "wagon sheed" with a flat level
spot at each place where a splice plate was to go and pre-cut
all the 1/2 " plywood peices (one on each side of the joints)
Nailed and glued the joints as I made them. Am pretty sure it was
a W truss. (probably lots of refrences to truss design on the web)
I did use one foot overhang on the truss ends but none on the gable
ends.

...lew...

Never use 2x4 for anything in a rafter. They are to light to hold the load.

2x6 is the smallest I would consider. 2x12 is more like the wood for that
size.

Martin

Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
http://lufkinced.com/


stryped wrote:
I am wanting to build a 24x30 pole barn garage. (Runnign out of room).
If I use a 5/12 pitch roof, what is the length of the other side? (I
am trying to determine the survae area of the roof to see if roofing
metal or shingles would be cheaper. I can get metal for 3 dollars a
foot.

Also, instead of purchasing trusses, could I just make a 2x4 ridge
board and run 2x4 rafters down from that?

Thanks!


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Martin, that is really quite a small span for trusses. It would
be extremely unusual to see anything other than 2x4s.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Martin H. Eastburn" wrote in message
...
Never use 2x4 for anything in a rafter. They are to light to
hold the load.

2x6 is the smallest I would consider. 2x12 is more like the
wood for that
size.

Martin

Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at
consolidated dot net
TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's
Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
http://lufkinced.com/


stryped wrote:
I am wanting to build a 24x30 pole barn garage. (Runnign out of
room).
If I use a 5/12 pitch roof, what is the length of the other
side? (I
am trying to determine the survae area of the roof to see if
roofing
metal or shingles would be cheaper. I can get metal for 3
dollars a
foot.

Also, instead of purchasing trusses, could I just make a 2x4
ridge
board and run 2x4 rafters down from that?

Thanks!


----== Posted via Pronews.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure
Usenet News==----
http://www.pronews.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
100,000 Newsgroups
---= - Total Privacy via Encryption =---

"Martin H. Eastburn" fired this volley in
:

Never use 2x4 for anything in a rafter. They are to light to hold the
load.

2x6 is the smallest I would consider. 2x12 is more like the wood for
that size.



For flying rafters on that small a span, I'd recommend 2x6, but for hand-
built trusses, 2x4 lumber is much more than adequate.

Although I don't approve, code permits mobile home trusses to be 2x2 up
to 14' span. That at least gives you an idea of the strength of a "W"
truss design relative to the lumber size.

LLoyd

On Jul 30, 4:52*pm, Lew Hartswick wrote:
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
stryped fired this volley in news:80401bcf-e992-
:

Also, instead of purchasing trusses, could I just make a 2x4 ridge
board and run 2x4 rafters down from that?

Forgot to answer that part:

You can, but you need collar ties between the rim beams to hold the ridge
up (think "ceiling rafters"). *Remember that a ridge board doesn't hold
_anything_ up unless it's on center-posts, it is _held_up_ by the
rafters, which, if allowed to spread at the walls, will sag. *Ridge
boards are just convenient nailing surfaces for the rafter tops, and a
way to longitudinally brace the rafters at the same time.

For that small a job, I'd be tempted to make up my own trusses with
gusset-glue-n-nail. *They're not code anywhere anymore, but simple to
make, and plenty strong enough for a simple pole barn.

By the time you get a ridge board and all those collar ties in place,
you'd have spent more than for trusses.

LLoyd

I built one about 30 years ago. Built my own trusses just as Lloyd said.
Used SYP (Southern Yellow Pine) on 2 ft centers used that Onduline
stuff for the sides and roof. Had to replace it a few years ago.
this time used V grove steel. Posts are 4 x 6 on 10 ft ctrs.
Square is a pair of 2 x 10. Forget what the spacing of the purlins
is and its in PA while I'm in NM so cant go out and look. :-)
* * ...lew...- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

What exactly is Onduline and is it cheaper to use than metal?

stryped wrote:

What exactly is Onduline and is it cheaper to use than metal?


I was (not sure it even exists any lomger) a sheet material with
ripple corrogations like the old style galvanize made out of a
heavy "tar like" stuff with some sort of fibre reinforcing and a
color coat on the one side. At the time is was being touted as
longer lived and more resistant to damage than the other products.
It wasent realy too bad, easier to handle, cut, and nail but it
did deterioate over the 20 years or so it was on. I wouldn't
recomend it, if it's still available.
...lew...

24 feet by 30 feet - that isn't small.
Our small 'yard barn' is 12x24 and the 2x4's that the former owner put in
have broken at every knot and hard grain. I'm going in to double width
and triple in most cases - these until I can replace the roof and rafters.

Martin

Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
http://lufkinced.com/


DanG wrote:
Martin, that is really quite a small span for trusses. It would
be extremely unusual to see anything other than 2x4s.



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"stryped" wrote in message
...


Also, instead of purchasing trusses, could I just make a 2x4 ridge
board and run 2x4 rafters down from that?


I have six little houses that are built this way with about a 10 foot
stretch between the ridge and the wall.

They sag so much that I made steel trusses to jack they back to being flat.

I am for building your own trusses, you will have a much stronger roof that
way.

--

__
Roger Shoaf

Important factors in selecting a mate:
1] Depth of gene pool
2] Position on the food chain.

Martin H. Eastburn wrote:
24 feet by 30 feet - that isn't small.
Our small 'yard barn' is 12x24 and the 2x4's that the former owner put in
have broken at every knot and hard grain. I'm going in to double width
and triple in most cases - these until I can replace the roof and rafters.

Martin
I wonder what grade of 2 x 4s he used? If they were the typical
"whitewood" from the "home supply" places I'm not too supprised.
Trusses should be made from SYP (southern yellow pine) graded
for the application. My pole barn (as mentioned before) is 24 x
40 an is still very much in excelent condx. after about 30 yrs.
...lew...

You might have yellow pine studs - hard as rock now.

Yes - tons of pine around here - in the middle of East Texas Piney woods.
I suspect they are just junk 2x4 and not clear wood (knots are not in studs).

I look at houses - I don't see 2x4 on houses.


Martin
Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
http://lufkinced.com/


Lew Hartswick wrote:
Martin H. Eastburn wrote:
24 feet by 30 feet - that isn't small.
Our small 'yard barn' is 12x24 and the 2x4's that the former owner put in
have broken at every knot and hard grain. I'm going in to double width
and triple in most cases - these until I can replace the roof and
rafters.

Martin
I wonder what grade of 2 x 4s he used? If they were the typical
"whitewood" from the "home supply" places I'm not too supprised.
Trusses should be made from SYP (southern yellow pine) graded
for the application. My pole barn (as mentioned before) is 24 x
40 an is still very much in excelent condx. after about 30 yrs.
...lew...


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