totally blatant shill for an ebay auction of something that is auctally
directly relevant to the interests of this group - no subtelty at all - no
hidden agenda, just bid the price of this puppy through the ceiling so I can
buy a small country and retire.

here's the link

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=300194249929




--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

William Noble wrote:
totally blatant shill for an ebay auction of something that is auctally
directly relevant to the interests of this group - no subtelty at all - no
hidden agenda, just bid the price of this puppy through the ceiling so I can
buy a small country and retire.

here's the link

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=300194249929





The pics on ebay are of the work holding side ? Ya think this will fit
my 10" Logan ? Might save me buying a mill until I actually have room
for one ...
--
Snag

On Jan 27, 9:01 am, Terry Coombs wrote:
William Noble wrote:
totally blatant shill for an ebay auction of something that is auctally
directly relevant to the interests of this group - no subtelty at all - no
hidden agenda, just bid the price of this puppy through the ceiling so I can
buy a small country and retire.

here's the link

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=300194249929

The pics on ebay are of the work holding side ? Ya think this will fit
my 10" Logan ? Might save me buying a mill until I actually have room
for one ...
--
Snag

if its for an atlas then there will be a spot for a bolt to go through
it to a T-slot on the compound

if your logan uses a tslot on the compound as well (likely) just make
or purchase a T-nut to fit

Brent wrote:
On Jan 27, 9:01 am, Terry Coombs wrote:
William Noble wrote:
totally blatant shill for an ebay auction of something that is auctally
directly relevant to the interests of this group - no subtelty at all - no
hidden agenda, just bid the price of this puppy through the ceiling so I can
buy a small country and retire.
here's the link
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=300194249929
The pics on ebay are of the work holding side ? Ya think this will fit
my 10" Logan ? Might save me buying a mill until I actually have room
for one ...
--
Snag

if its for an atlas then there will be a spot for a bolt to go through
it to a T-slot on the compound

if your logan uses a tslot on the compound as well (likely) just make
or purchase a T-nut to fit

Thanks , kinda what I thought . If the 20% off coupon for Horrible
Fright hadn't been bogus , I'd be awaiting delivery of a Big Red Mill in
a couple of weeks and this would be moot .
As it is , I think I will watch this auction . I can't afford enough
to buy a small country , but might manage this item if it doesn't get
too spendy .
--
Snag

the bottom of this has a hole, 1.5 inches in diameter, that on an Atlas fits
over the projection to which the compound is mounted. On SB, there is an
adapter in that hole that projects downward into the hole in the cross slide
into which the compound mounts. If your Logan is like my (12 inch) Logan,
then you could use it by making an adapter plate that fit into the 1.5 inch
hole and had a properly sized hole (3/8? I dont' remember exactly) for the
pin that centers the compound and a pair of holes for the bolts that hold
the compound. I made a plate like this to mount a holdrige tool to my lahte
(because I had one that was for a bigger lathe and I couldn't get it low
enough if I left the compound in place)

I would not try to mount it on top of the compound, I think there will be
way too much vibration, but mounted on the cross slide will be fine


"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
. ..
William Noble wrote:
totally blatant shill for an ebay auction of something that is auctally
directly relevant to the interests of this group - no subtelty at all -
no hidden agenda, just bid the price of this puppy through the ceiling so
I can buy a small country and retire.

here's the link

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=300194249929





The pics on ebay are of the work holding side ? Ya think this will fit my
10" Logan ? Might save me buying a mill until I actually have room for one
...
--
Snag



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
. ..
Brent wrote:
On Jan 27, 9:01 am, Terry Coombs wrote:
William Noble wrote:
totally blatant shill for an ebay auction of something that is auctally
directly relevant to the interests of this group - no subtelty at all -
no
hidden agenda, just bid the price of this puppy through the ceiling so
I can
buy a small country and retire.
here's the link
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=300194249929
The pics on ebay are of the work holding side ? Ya think this will fit
my 10" Logan ? Might save me buying a mill until I actually have room
for one ...
--
Snag

if its for an atlas then there will be a spot for a bolt to go through
it to a T-slot on the compound

if your logan uses a tslot on the compound as well (likely) just make
or purchase a T-nut to fit

Thanks , kinda what I thought . If the 20% off coupon for Horrible Fright
hadn't been bogus , I'd be awaiting delivery of a Big Red Mill in a couple
of weeks and this would be moot .
As it is , I think I will watch this auction . I can't afford enough to
buy a small country , but might manage this item if it doesn't get too
spendy .
--
Snag


NO NO NO NO NO you don't mount this to the compound - you remove the
compound and mount it to the cross slide. it has it's own "compound" in the
base. It does NOT NOT NOT mount with T-nuts. It attaches to the fitting
that the compound rotates on.

see my prior post answering the Query re Logan lathes.




--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
. ..
Brent wrote:
On Jan 27, 9:01 am, Terry Coombs wrote:
William Noble wrote:
totally blatant shill for an ebay auction of something that is auctally
directly relevant to the interests of this group - no subtelty at all -
no
hidden agenda, just bid the price of this puppy through the ceiling so
I can
buy a small country and retire.
here's the link
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=300194249929
The pics on ebay are of the work holding side ? Ya think this will fit
my 10" Logan ? Might save me buying a mill until I actually have room
for one ...
--
Snag

if its for an atlas then there will be a spot for a bolt to go through
it to a T-slot on the compound

if your logan uses a tslot on the compound as well (likely) just make
or purchase a T-nut to fit

Thanks , kinda what I thought . If the 20% off coupon for Horrible Fright
hadn't been bogus , I'd be awaiting delivery of a Big Red Mill in a couple
of weeks and this would be moot .
As it is , I think I will watch this auction . I can't afford enough to
buy a small country , but might manage this item if it doesn't get too
spendy .
--
Snag

As for using the milling attachment instead of a mill, the thing is often
difficult to set up but, with some ingenuity, you can do a lot with it. I
have one on my SB 10L and I used it quite a bit when I was doing more in the
shop.

I've also owned a knee mill and of course there is no comparison in what
they can do. But you may be surprised at how much you *can* do with one of
these gadgets -- and a faceplate on your lathe. Learning to use a faceplate
well is probably more useful, overall, than a small milling attachment.

--
Ed Huntress

William Noble wrote:
the bottom of this has a hole, 1.5 inches in diameter, that on an Atlas fits
over the projection to which the compound is mounted. On SB, there is an
adapter in that hole that projects downward into the hole in the cross slide
into which the compound mounts. If your Logan is like my (12 inch) Logan,
then you could use it by making an adapter plate that fit into the 1.5 inch
hole and had a properly sized hole (3/8? I dont' remember exactly) for the
pin that centers the compound and a pair of holes for the bolts that hold
the compound. I made a plate like this to mount a holdrige tool to my lahte
(because I had one that was for a bigger lathe and I couldn't get it low
enough if I left the compound in place)

I would not try to mount it on top of the compound, I think there will be
way too much vibration, but mounted on the cross slide will be fine


"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
. ..
William Noble wrote:
totally blatant shill for an ebay auction of something that is auctally
directly relevant to the interests of this group - no subtelty at all -
no hidden agenda, just bid the price of this puppy through the ceiling so
I can buy a small country and retire.

here's the link

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=300194249929




The pics on ebay are of the work holding side ? Ya think this will fit my
10" Logan ? Might save me buying a mill until I actually have room for one
...
--
Snag



All been rendered moot for now . I've been outbid ... but will keep
watching it . I can make the adapter if the price doesn't get too high .
Since I can't have what I really want (knee mill) right now due mostly
to no where to put one , I'm seeking other avenues . I have a couple of
small projects in mind that this unit would do easily ...
I'll be watching .
--
Snag

On Jan 27, 12:35 pm, "William Noble" wrote:
"Terry Coombs" wrote in message

. ..



Brent wrote:
On Jan 27, 9:01 am, Terry Coombs wrote:
William Noble wrote:
totally blatant shill for an ebay auction of something that is auctally
directly relevant to the interests of this group - no subtelty at all -
no
hidden agenda, just bid the price of this puppy through the ceiling so
I can
buy a small country and retire.
here's the link
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=300194249929
The pics on ebay are of the work holding side ? Ya think this will fit
my 10" Logan ? Might save me buying a mill until I actually have room
for one ...
--
Snag

if its for an atlas then there will be a spot for a bolt to go through
it to a T-slot on the compound

if your logan uses a tslot on the compound as well (likely) just make
or purchase a T-nut to fit

Thanks , kinda what I thought . If the 20% off coupon for Horrible Fright
hadn't been bogus , I'd be awaiting delivery of a Big Red Mill in a couple
of weeks and this would be moot .
As it is , I think I will watch this auction . I can't afford enough to
buy a small country , but might manage this item if it doesn't get too
spendy .
--
Snag

NO NO NO NO NO you don't mount this to the compound - you remove the
compound and mount it to the cross slide. it has it's own "compound" in the
base. It does NOT NOT NOT mount with T-nuts. It attaches to the fitting
that the compound rotates on.

see my prior post answering the Query re Logan lathes.

--
Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com

OOPS
not like my palmgren then although i bet i could and SHOULD set the
palmgren up that way too as i think about it

thanks for pointitng that out

On 2008-01-27, Brent wrote:
On Jan 27, 9:01 am, Terry Coombs wrote:
William Noble wrote:
totally blatant shill for an ebay auction of something that is auctally
directly relevant to the interests of this group - no subtelty at all - no

[ ... ]

auction # 300194249929

The pics on ebay are of the work holding side ? Ya think this will fit
my 10" Logan ? Might save me buying a mill until I actually have room
for one ...

[ ... ]

if its for an atlas then there will be a spot for a bolt to go through
it to a T-slot on the compound

Actually -- no. The compound is removed and this mounts in
place of the compound. On an Atlas lathe, it fits over a dovetailed
stud on which the compound rotates. On a SouthBend, the affixing is
somewhat different, thus the need for the adaptor which he mentioned
making (in the auction).

The compound is removed for at least two reasons:

1) Increased rigidity with the milling attachment mounted directly
to the cross-slide.

2) More vertical travel is possible than with the compound in
place, since the top of the compound is only an inch or so below
the centerline of the spindle, which is where the end mill will
be mounted.

if your logan uses a tslot on the compound as well (likely) just make
or purchase a T-nut to fit

Nope. For an Atlas, just slip it over the stud and tighten the
setscrews to close the angled clamps (which he also mentioned making) to
lock it in place. (BTW, I would suggest bronze or brass for the
clamp.)

For the South Bend, you turn a piece which fits into the hole
which the projection of the compound fits, and turn the upper part into
a dovetail matching what the compound of the Atlas would have. To be
honest, I'm not sure *how* the compound of a Logan fits to the
cross-slide, but since Snag has one, he should be able to determine
that.

My Clausing has the hole similar to that mentioned for the
SouthBend, with a circular T-slot surrounding it for the heads of the
bolts which clamp the compound to the cross-slide.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2008-01-27, Brent wrote:
On Jan 27, 9:01 am, Terry Coombs wrote:
William Noble wrote:
totally blatant shill for an ebay auction of something that is auctally
directly relevant to the interests of this group - no subtelty at all - no

[ ... ]

auction # 300194249929

The pics on ebay are of the work holding side ? Ya think this will fit
my 10" Logan ? Might save me buying a mill until I actually have room
for one ...

[ ... ]

if its for an atlas then there will be a spot for a bolt to go through
it to a T-slot on the compound

Actually -- no. The compound is removed and this mounts in
place of the compound. On an Atlas lathe, it fits over a dovetailed
stud on which the compound rotates. On a SouthBend, the affixing is
somewhat different, thus the need for the adaptor which he mentioned
making (in the auction).

The compound is removed for at least two reasons:

1) Increased rigidity with the milling attachment mounted directly
to the cross-slide.

2) More vertical travel is possible than with the compound in
place, since the top of the compound is only an inch or so below
the centerline of the spindle, which is where the end mill will
be mounted.

if your logan uses a tslot on the compound as well (likely) just make
or purchase a T-nut to fit

Nope. For an Atlas, just slip it over the stud and tighten the
setscrews to close the angled clamps (which he also mentioned making) to
lock it in place. (BTW, I would suggest bronze or brass for the
clamp.)

For the South Bend, you turn a piece which fits into the hole
which the projection of the compound fits, and turn the upper part into
a dovetail matching what the compound of the Atlas would have. To be
honest, I'm not sure *how* the compound of a Logan fits to the
cross-slide, but since Snag has one, he should be able to determine
that.

My Clausing has the hole similar to that mentioned for the
SouthBend, with a circular T-slot surrounding it for the heads of the
bolts which clamp the compound to the cross-slide.

Enjoy,
DoN.

My compound mounts on a stud (hole? can't recall , but makes a minimal
difference) with two bolts in circular T-slots . Sounds like the mount
would be fairly easy to make .
I'd still rather have room for a real mill ... alright , alright ,
I'll quit whining now .
--
Snag
I was in the checkout at Lathemaster a while ago , ready to drop some
serious cash . Something told me not to do it , but to wait .
The Karma Bank owes me ...

My Sheldon 11x44 (Marketing name) and I have one. It fits nicely on once
I remove the compound.

I designed a holder that locked into the jaws that was a ball end turner.
The milling attachment allowed nice height and angle rotation as needed.
I used a boring head and made my own boring bar with a 90 degree triangle.
I got the straight shaft milling head mandrill and provided beautiful bronze
bushings. A hand wheel was attached to the opposite end for ease of turning
the cutter on the shaft turning in the spindle.

Engineman1 and I started a club some years ago and the pages still exist :-)

http://home.pacbell.net/oldtree/letter_2.html

Martin (former oldtree for the redwoods we lived within.)

Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
http://lufkinced.com/


William Noble wrote:
the bottom of this has a hole, 1.5 inches in diameter, that on an Atlas fits
over the projection to which the compound is mounted. On SB, there is an
adapter in that hole that projects downward into the hole in the cross slide
into which the compound mounts. If your Logan is like my (12 inch) Logan,
then you could use it by making an adapter plate that fit into the 1.5 inch
hole and had a properly sized hole (3/8? I dont' remember exactly) for the
pin that centers the compound and a pair of holes for the bolts that hold
the compound. I made a plate like this to mount a holdrige tool to my lahte
(because I had one that was for a bigger lathe and I couldn't get it low
enough if I left the compound in place)

I would not try to mount it on top of the compound, I think there will be
way too much vibration, but mounted on the cross slide will be fine


"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
. ..
William Noble wrote:
totally blatant shill for an ebay auction of something that is auctally
directly relevant to the interests of this group - no subtelty at all -
no hidden agenda, just bid the price of this puppy through the ceiling so
I can buy a small country and retire.

here's the link

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=300194249929




The pics on ebay are of the work holding side ? Ya think this will fit my
10" Logan ? Might save me buying a mill until I actually have room for one
...
--
Snag

" My compound mounts on a stud (hole? can't recall , but makes a minimal
difference) with two bolts in circular T-slots . Sounds like the mount
would be fairly easy to make .
I'd still rather have room for a real mill ... alright , alright , I'll
quit whining now .
--
Snag

your compound mounts on a stud that is about 3/8 inch (maybe 5/16?) to keep
it centered, and the two bolts (really T bolts) are in a circular T slot -
if you do remove the compound BE SURE YOU DO NOT HAVE THE BOLTS AT 6:00 and
12:00 (e.g. in line with the cross slide direction of travel) - or you will
be unhappy - (yes, I learned that the hard way).



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

On Sun, 27 Jan 2008 12:51:00 -0600, Terry Coombs
wrote:



All been rendered moot for now . I've been outbid ... but will keep
watching it . I can make the adapter if the price doesn't get too high .
Since I can't have what I really want (knee mill) right now due mostly
to no where to put one , I'm seeking other avenues . I have a couple of
small projects in mind that this unit would do easily ...
I'll be watching .
--
Snag


You really want one?

Let me check my Stacks O Stuff if you dont win the auction.

Gunner

On Sun, 27 Jan 2008 20:56:49 -0600, Terry Coombs
wrote:

I'd still rather have room for a real mill ... alright , alright ,
I'll quit whining now .
--
Snag

Where are you located?

Gunner

On Jan 27, 9:15*pm, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:
* * * * Nope. *For an Atlas, just slip it over the stud and tighten the
setscrews to close the angled clamps (which he also mentioned making) to
lock it in place. *(BTW, I would suggest bronze or brass for the
clamp.)


The Atlas clamps are, I believe, steel - at least mine are. Brass or
bronze sound good at first blush, but I'd stay away from them for two
reasons.

One: the clamping pieces project out from the compound or milling base
until they bear against the dovetail. They are well supported in the
base, as they are (or should be) a good fit in the holes there, and
you want them pretty stiff before they contact the dovetail.

Two, and more important: while you don't want the clamping pieces to
wear the dovetail appreciably, you also don't want them to mushroom at
all. If the contact areas deform, they won't retract into the base -
and you'll have quite a time getting the base off the dovetail.

Mine are, as I said, steel. They are ground to match the angle of the
dovetail, and appear to be hardened.

John Martin

"John Martin" wrote in message
...
On Jan 27, 9:15 pm, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:
Nope. For an Atlas, just slip it over the stud and tighten the
setscrews to close the angled clamps (which he also mentioned making) to
lock it in place. (BTW, I would suggest bronze or brass for the
clamp.)


The Atlas clamps are, I believe, steel - at least mine are. Brass or
bronze sound good at first blush, but I'd stay away from them for two
reasons.

One: the clamping pieces project out from the compound or milling base
until they bear against the dovetail. They are well supported in the
base, as they are (or should be) a good fit in the holes there, and
you want them pretty stiff before they contact the dovetail.

Two, and more important: while you don't want the clamping pieces to
wear the dovetail appreciably, you also don't want them to mushroom at
all. If the contact areas deform, they won't retract into the base -
and you'll have quite a time getting the base off the dovetail.

Mine are, as I said, steel. They are ground to match the angle of the
dovetail, and appear to be hardened.

John Martin

I agree with John, above - I noted in the auction that the angled clamps are
steel - before I put up the auction, I had written the text saying "brass',
but then I took it apart and looked and the ones that are holding the
clamping part are steel, so presumably the base should be the same, for the
reasons suggested.



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Gunner wrote:
On Sun, 27 Jan 2008 20:56:49 -0600, Terry Coombs
wrote:

I'd still rather have room for a real mill ... alright , alright ,
I'll quit whining now .
--
Snag

Where are you located?

Gunner
I'm in Memphis Tn . Soon , going to be in Mountain View Arkansas , I
hope . The impending move is the only reason I don't enlarge my
workspace here .
--
Snag , jus' gettin' by with an 8X12 shed ...

Gunner wrote:
On Sun, 27 Jan 2008 12:51:00 -0600, Terry Coombs
wrote:


All been rendered moot for now . I've been outbid ... but will keep
watching it . I can make the adapter if the price doesn't get too high .
Since I can't have what I really want (knee mill) right now due mostly
to no where to put one , I'm seeking other avenues . I have a couple of
small projects in mind that this unit would do easily ...
I'll be watching .
--
Snag


You really want one?

Let me check my Stacks O Stuff if you dont win the auction.

Gunner
If you mean the milling attachment , yes , I'd like one . Within it's
limits , it can do many of the small projects I need done .
Let me know , my reply-to address is correct .
--
Snag

On Tue, 29 Jan 2008 17:09:10 -0600, Terry Coombs
wrote:

Gunner wrote:
On Sun, 27 Jan 2008 20:56:49 -0600, Terry Coombs
wrote:

I'd still rather have room for a real mill ... alright , alright ,
I'll quit whining now .
--
Snag

Where are you located?

Gunner
I'm in Memphis Tn . Soon , going to be in Mountain View Arkansas , I
hope . The impending move is the only reason I don't enlarge my
workspace here .
--
Snag , jus' gettin' by with an 8X12 shed ...


Well..Arky is road trip! Closer than Mempis
Gunner

On Tue, 29 Jan 2008 17:12:40 -0600, Terry Coombs
wrote:

Gunner wrote:
On Sun, 27 Jan 2008 12:51:00 -0600, Terry Coombs
wrote:


All been rendered moot for now . I've been outbid ... but will keep
watching it . I can make the adapter if the price doesn't get too high .
Since I can't have what I really want (knee mill) right now due mostly
to no where to put one , I'm seeking other avenues . I have a couple of
small projects in mind that this unit would do easily ...
I'll be watching .
--
Snag


You really want one?

Let me check my Stacks O Stuff if you dont win the auction.

Gunner
If you mean the milling attachment , yes , I'd like one . Within it's
limits , it can do many of the small projects I need done .
Let me know , my reply-to address is correct .
--
Snag

Saaved

Gunner

Terry Coombs wrote:
DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2008-01-27, Brent wrote:
On Jan 27, 9:01 am, Terry Coombs wrote:
William Noble wrote:
totally blatant shill for an ebay auction of something that is
auctally
directly relevant to the interests of this group - no subtelty at
all - no

[ ... ]

auction # 300194249929

The pics on ebay are of the work holding side ? Ya think this will fit
my 10" Logan ? Might save me buying a mill until I actually have room
for one ...

[ ... ]

if its for an atlas then there will be a spot for a bolt to go through
it to a T-slot on the compound

Actually -- no. The compound is removed and this mounts in
place of the compound. On an Atlas lathe, it fits over a dovetailed
stud on which the compound rotates. On a SouthBend, the affixing is
somewhat different, thus the need for the adaptor which he mentioned
making (in the auction).

The compound is removed for at least two reasons:

1) Increased rigidity with the milling attachment mounted directly
to the cross-slide.

2) More vertical travel is possible than with the compound in
place, since the top of the compound is only an inch or so below
the centerline of the spindle, which is where the end mill will
be mounted.

if your logan uses a tslot on the compound as well (likely) just make
or purchase a T-nut to fit

Nope. For an Atlas, just slip it over the stud and tighten the
setscrews to close the angled clamps (which he also mentioned making) to
lock it in place. (BTW, I would suggest bronze or brass for the
clamp.)

For the South Bend, you turn a piece which fits into the hole
which the projection of the compound fits, and turn the upper part into
a dovetail matching what the compound of the Atlas would have. To be
honest, I'm not sure *how* the compound of a Logan fits to the
cross-slide, but since Snag has one, he should be able to determine
that.

My Clausing has the hole similar to that mentioned for the
SouthBend, with a circular T-slot surrounding it for the heads of the
bolts which clamp the compound to the cross-slide.

Enjoy,
DoN.

My compound mounts on a stud (hole? can't recall , but makes a minimal
difference) with two bolts in circular T-slots . Sounds like the mount
would be fairly easy to make .
I'd still rather have room for a real mill ... alright , alright ,
I'll quit whining now .
--
Snag
I was in the checkout at Lathemaster a while ago , ready to drop some
serious cash . Something told me not to do it , but to wait .
The Karma Bank owes me ...

Terry, you can buy a minimill for not much more than these milling
attachments usually ebay for. A minimill can do a lot of serious work
within a working envelope a little larger than a brick.
I have a nice mill-drill now, but I still use the minimill whenever
possible.

John Martin wrote:
On Jan 27, 9:15 pm, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:
Nope. For an Atlas, just slip it over the stud and tighten the
setscrews to close the angled clamps (which he also mentioned making) to
lock it in place. (BTW, I would suggest bronze or brass for the
clamp.)


The Atlas clamps are, I believe, steel - at least mine are. Brass or
bronze sound good at first blush, but I'd stay away from them for two
reasons.

One: the clamping pieces project out from the compound or milling base
until they bear against the dovetail. They are well supported in the
base, as they are (or should be) a good fit in the holes there, and
you want them pretty stiff before they contact the dovetail.

Two, and more important: while you don't want the clamping pieces to
wear the dovetail appreciably, you also don't want them to mushroom at
all. If the contact areas deform, they won't retract into the base -
and you'll have quite a time getting the base off the dovetail.

Mine are, as I said, steel. They are ground to match the angle of the
dovetail, and appear to be hardened.

Soft steel. Make them from dowel, then anneal. You want them softer than
the stud they bear against.

Rex wrote:
Terry Coombs wrote:
DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2008-01-27, Brent wrote:
On Jan 27, 9:01 am, Terry Coombs wrote:
William Noble wrote:
totally blatant shill for an ebay auction of something that is
auctally
directly relevant to the interests of this group - no subtelty at
all - no

[ ... ]

auction # 300194249929

The pics on ebay are of the work holding side ? Ya think this will fit
my 10" Logan ? Might save me buying a mill until I actually have room
for one ...

[ ... ]

if its for an atlas then there will be a spot for a bolt to go through
it to a T-slot on the compound

Actually -- no. The compound is removed and this mounts in
place of the compound. On an Atlas lathe, it fits over a dovetailed
stud on which the compound rotates. On a SouthBend, the affixing is
somewhat different, thus the need for the adaptor which he mentioned
making (in the auction).

The compound is removed for at least two reasons:

1) Increased rigidity with the milling attachment mounted directly
to the cross-slide.

2) More vertical travel is possible than with the compound in
place, since the top of the compound is only an inch or so below
the centerline of the spindle, which is where the end mill will
be mounted.

if your logan uses a tslot on the compound as well (likely) just make
or purchase a T-nut to fit

Nope. For an Atlas, just slip it over the stud and tighten the
setscrews to close the angled clamps (which he also mentioned making) to
lock it in place. (BTW, I would suggest bronze or brass for the
clamp.)

For the South Bend, you turn a piece which fits into the hole
which the projection of the compound fits, and turn the upper part into
a dovetail matching what the compound of the Atlas would have. To be
honest, I'm not sure *how* the compound of a Logan fits to the
cross-slide, but since Snag has one, he should be able to determine
that.

My Clausing has the hole similar to that mentioned for the
SouthBend, with a circular T-slot surrounding it for the heads of the
bolts which clamp the compound to the cross-slide.

Enjoy,
DoN.

My compound mounts on a stud (hole? can't recall , but makes a minimal
difference) with two bolts in circular T-slots . Sounds like the mount
would be fairly easy to make .
I'd still rather have room for a real mill ... alright , alright ,
I'll quit whining now .
--
Snag
I was in the checkout at Lathemaster a while ago , ready to drop some
serious cash . Something told me not to do it , but to wait .
The Karma Bank owes me ...

Terry, you can buy a minimill for not much more than these milling
attachments usually eBay for. A minimill can do a lot of serious work
within a working envelope a little larger than a brick.
I have a nice mill-drill now, but I still use the minimill whenever
possible.


And I have seriously considered buying one ... but again it comes
down to room . I have way too much stuff in my 8X12 shed already (lathe
, two welders , OA torch , shelving , rollaway toolbox , over half of a
1939 Harley (in pieces), and one three foot long cabinet with top - plus
several boxes of parts ) . There is literally no place to put another
machine , if I do buy one I will have to either move some stuff out or
add to the shed . That's one of the biggest reasons I haven't yet
ordered a machine .
Snag , who has to leave the shed to turn around .

On 2008-01-30, Rex wrote:
John Martin wrote:
On Jan 27, 9:15 pm, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:
Nope. For an Atlas, just slip it over the stud and tighten the
setscrews to close the angled clamps (which he also mentioned making) to
lock it in place. (BTW, I would suggest bronze or brass for the
clamp.)


The Atlas clamps are, I believe, steel - at least mine are. Brass or
bronze sound good at first blush, but I'd stay away from them for two
reasons.

One: the clamping pieces project out from the compound or milling base
until they bear against the dovetail. They are well supported in the
base, as they are (or should be) a good fit in the holes there, and
you want them pretty stiff before they contact the dovetail.

Yes.

Two, and more important: while you don't want the clamping pieces to
wear the dovetail appreciably, you also don't want them to mushroom at
all. If the contact areas deform, they won't retract into the base -
and you'll have quite a time getting the base off the dovetail.

A good bronze is almost as hard as mild steel, and a bevel
ground on the edge of the dovetail angle will keep any mushrooming from
becoming a problem.

Mine are, as I said, steel. They are ground to match the angle of the
dovetail, and appear to be hardened.

Soft steel. Make them from dowel, then anneal. You want them softer than
the stud they bear against.

Soft steel or a good hard bronze -- and bevel the edges so
mushrooming does not restrict removal. I agree that brass is too soft.

My only example of this is in an old Atlas/Craftsman 6x18, and
the lathe is old enough (and has been through enough owners) so I
would not consider anything which I might find to be authoritative. And
I don't *use* this machine anyway (and have not for a large number of
years. For most of my work, I use a 12x24" Clausing, and for certain
types of work an Emco Maier Compact-5/CNC (5" swing over bed), which is
particularly nice in that I can cut metric threads at just the flip of a
switch. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---