I made adjustable machine feet. I want to perfectly level my
Bridgeport mill by adjusting legs. Then some manipulations of parts
during milling would become easier, as I could use a machinist level
to align parts in vises horizontally. I want them to also be
retractable so that I can mount the casters back and move the mill
around.

These feet are made from 1"-10 all thread studs and same nuts, welded
onto 0.25x1.5x4.75" steel flats.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/My-B...-Machine-Feet/

I have not yet welded them to the mill's bottom frame (which is a
homemade frame for casters, if you recall, I would not be welding
these feet to the actual machine base).

My question is whether I need some set screw or some such, to prevent
these 1" allthread studs from working themselves out of alignment,
over the years, due to vibration. Or would they just hold in place.

Right now, they are held by the nuts to the extent of being either
difficult or impossible to turn by hand, but all are easy to turn with
a wrench. (due to changes of alignment that happened during welding).

My gut feeling is that setscrews are not necessary, but I wanted to
hear some opinions first.

thanks

i

In article ,
Ignoramus7760 wrote:

These feet are made from 1"-10 all thread studs and same nuts, welded
onto 0.25x1.5x4.75" steel flats.

If you have movement (not too likely) a jam nut is simple, and perhaps
more effective as well.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

Ignoramus7760 wrote:
I made adjustable machine feet. I want to perfectly level my
Bridgeport mill by adjusting legs. Then some manipulations of parts
during milling would become easier, as I could use a machinist level
to align parts in vises horizontally. I want them to also be
retractable so that I can mount the casters back and move the mill
around.

These feet are made from 1"-10 all thread studs and same nuts, welded
onto 0.25x1.5x4.75" steel flats.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/My-B...-Machine-Feet/

I have not yet welded them to the mill's bottom frame (which is a
homemade frame for casters, if you recall, I would not be welding
these feet to the actual machine base).

My question is whether I need some set screw or some such, to prevent
these 1" allthread studs from working themselves out of alignment,
over the years, due to vibration. Or would they just hold in place.

Right now, they are held by the nuts to the extent of being either
difficult or impossible to turn by hand, but all are easy to turn with
a wrench. (due to changes of alignment that happened during welding).

My gut feeling is that setscrews are not necessary, but I wanted to
hear some opinions first.

thanks

i

Add a jam nut to each, after final level is achieved snug them up.

Paul


--
-----------------------------------------
It's a Linux world....well, it oughta be.
-----------------------------------------

On Sat, 21 Jul 2007 19:52:20 -0500, Paul wrote:
Add a jam nut to each, after final level is achieved snug them up.

Paul (and Ecnerwal) thanks. I am not sure if there is clearance for a
jam nut, due to nuts having been welded to flat bars.



i

On Jul 21, 7:23 pm, Ignoramus7760
wrote:
I made adjustable machine feet. I want to perfectly level my
Bridgeport mill by adjusting legs. Then some manipulations of parts
during milling would become easier, as I could use a machinist level
to align parts in vises horizontally. I want them to also be
retractable so that I can mount the casters back and move the mill
around.

These feet are made from 1"-10 all thread studs and same nuts, welded
onto 0.25x1.5x4.75" steel flats.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/My-B...stable-Machine...

I have not yet welded them to the mill's bottom frame (which is a
homemade frame for casters, if you recall, I would not be welding
these feet to the actual machine base).

My question is whether I need some set screw or some such, to prevent
these 1" allthread studs from working themselves out of alignment,
over the years, due to vibration. Or would they just hold in place.

Right now, they are held by the nuts to the extent of being either
difficult or impossible to turn by hand, but all are easy to turn with
a wrench. (due to changes of alignment that happened during welding).

My gut feeling is that setscrews are not necessary, but I wanted to
hear some opinions first.

thanks

i

Good idea Ig and well excuted.

I would use a jam nut...it will hold.

FYI...you may want to use the long all thread coupling nuts next
time...it makes the job easier. They are normally used to connect
lengths of all thread together. I used them on a similar project and
they eliminated the problem of trying to keep a series of smaller nuts
aligned while welding.

http://www.cnanchor.com.cn/product0.asp?id=562

TMT

On Sat, 21 Jul 2007 18:37:33 -0700, Too_Many_Tools wrote:
Good idea Ig and well excuted.

I would use a jam nut...it will hold.

thanks. I wil try to think of a way to enable me to use a jam
nut. Maybe I would use a couple of washers. In reality, I think that I
am worrying about nothing and there are no forces that could make the
bolts turn in their nuts.

FYI...you may want to use the long all thread coupling nuts next
time...it makes the job easier. They are normally used to connect
lengths of all thread together. I used them on a similar project and
they eliminated the problem of trying to keep a series of smaller nuts
aligned while welding.

http://www.cnanchor.com.cn/product0.asp?id=562

thanks, the ones I saw at McMaster, in that size, were very expensive.

I welded the nuts, with the allthread studs in them, so that they would
keep some alignment. Which they sort of did, the studs go all the way
in them, but they are tighter than they were to begin with.

By the way, I used a hex collet holder to machine 3/4" hex on the
studs (for sockets and wrenches)

i

i

i

"Ignoramus7760" wrote in message
...

I made adjustable machine feet. I want to perfectly level my
SNIP
http://igor.chudov.com/projects/My-B...-Machine-Feet/
SNIP

But now there is no way to refit the swarf tray - or haven't you got
one?

AWEM

On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 09:09:53 +0100, "Andrew Mawson"
wrote:


"Ignoramus7760" wrote in message
m...

I made adjustable machine feet. I want to perfectly level my
SNIP
http://igor.chudov.com/projects/My-B...-Machine-Feet/
SNIP

But now there is no way to refit the swarf tray - or haven't you got
one?

AWEM

I suggest that you add pads, say 6 X 6 X 1/2" steel, spot drilled for
your leveling bolts. The way your photos show it you have the machine
bearing only on the 1 inch bolts. A bit of vibration and I guarantee
that one or the other of those bolts will abrade their way into the
floor and ruin your careful leveling.
It also helps to place a layer of something between the bottom of the
pad and the floor th ensure that the pad bears evenly on the floor,
i.e., doesn't just hit the high spots, as it were.



Bruce in Bangkok
(brucepaigeatgmaildotcom)

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

On Sat, 21 Jul 2007 21:10:56 -0500, Ignoramus7760
wrote:

On Sat, 21 Jul 2007 18:37:33 -0700, Too_Many_Tools wrote:
Good idea Ig and well excuted.

I would use a jam nut...it will hold.
snip
thanks, the ones I saw at McMaster, in that size, were very expensive.

I welded the nuts, with the allthread studs in them, so that they would
keep some alignment. Which they sort of did, the studs go all the way
in them, but they are tighter than they were to begin with.

By the way, I used a hex collet holder to machine 3/4" hex on the
studs (for sockets and wrenches)

When I did my weight bench, I welded 3/4 hex heavy nuts on square
tube, knowing the nuts would shrink from the welding. I just ran a
tap through after welding.

Pete Keillor

On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 09:09:53 +0100, Andrew Mawson wrote:

But now there is no way to refit the swarf tray - or haven't you got
one?

I do not have one -- but swaRF IS easy to sweep off concrete and
vacuum.

i

"Ignoramus23517" wrote in
message ...
On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 09:09:53 +0100, Andrew Mawson
wrote:

But now there is no way to refit the swarf tray - or haven't you
got
one?

I do not have one -- but swaRF IS easy to sweep off concrete and
vacuum.

i

....ah but if you are using coolant, it isn't just swarf that the swarf
tray collects - been there and got the T shirt !

AWEM

On Jul 21, 9:10 pm, Ignoramus7760
wrote:
On Sat, 21 Jul 2007 18:37:33 -0700, Too_Many_Tools wrote:
Good idea Ig and well excuted.

I would use a jam nut...it will hold.

thanks. I wil try to think of a way to enable me to use a jam
nut. Maybe I would use a couple of washers. In reality, I think that I
am worrying about nothing and there are no forces that could make the
bolts turn in their nuts.

FYI...you may want to use the long all thread coupling nuts next
time...it makes the job easier. They are normally used to connect
lengths of all thread together. I used them on a similar project and
they eliminated the problem of trying to keep a series of smaller nuts
aligned while welding.

http://www.cnanchor.com.cn/product0.asp?id=562

thanks, the ones I saw at McMaster, in that size, were very expensive.

I welded the nuts, with the allthread studs in them, so that they would
keep some alignment. Which they sort of did, the studs go all the way
in them, but they are tighter than they were to begin with.

By the way, I used a hex collet holder to machine 3/4" hex on the
studs (for sockets and wrenches)

i

i

i

You are located in the Midwest, aren't you?

When I travel to Midwest, I stop and pick up supplies along the trip
route at Ace Hardware and TSC stores both of which did have these nuts
(1" diameter) in stock and at a reasonable cost. Bear in mind that
inventories do change and they may not carry them any longer.

TMT

On Jul 22, 4:49 am, Bruce wrote:
On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 09:09:53 +0100, "Andrew Mawson"

wrote:

"Ignoramus7760" wrote in message
m...

I made adjustable machine feet. I want to perfectly level my
SNIP
http://igor.chudov.com/projects/My-B...stable-Machine...
SNIP

But now there is no way to refit the swarf tray - or haven't you got
one?

AWEM

I suggest that you add pads, say 6 X 6 X 1/2" steel, spot drilled for
your leveling bolts. The way your photos show it you have the machine
bearing only on the 1 inch bolts. A bit of vibration and I guarantee
that one or the other of those bolts will abrade their way into the
floor and ruin your careful leveling.
It also helps to place a layer of something between the bottom of the
pad and the floor th ensure that the pad bears evenly on the floor,
i.e., doesn't just hit the high spots, as it were.

Bruce in Bangkok
(brucepaigeatgmaildotcom)

--
Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com

I would agree with Bruce...pads would be a good idea.

TMT

Ignoramus7760 wrote:

I made adjustable machine feet. I want to perfectly level my
Bridgeport mill by adjusting legs. Then some manipulations of parts
during milling would become easier, as I could use a machinist level
to align parts in vises horizontally. I want them to also be
retractable so that I can mount the casters back and move the mill
around.

Iggy,

You made a rolling base and then went through the trouble of leveling the
machine to the limits of your level. Sorta sounds contradictory. Are you
planning on moving it anytime soon?

For fun, now raise the knee, locking it at various heights and see what kind
of deviation you have. Do he same for X and Y travel.

Wes

On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 14:40:32 -0400, Wes wrote:
Ignoramus7760 wrote:

I made adjustable machine feet. I want to perfectly level my
Bridgeport mill by adjusting legs. Then some manipulations of parts
during milling would become easier, as I could use a machinist level
to align parts in vises horizontally. I want them to also be
retractable so that I can mount the casters back and move the mill
around.

Iggy,

You made a rolling base and then went through the trouble of leveling the
machine to the limits of your level. Sorta sounds contradictory. Are you
planning on moving it anytime soon?

I am not planning to move it, but leveling it once more would not take
as much time. It is a learning curve. I like my current base due to
ease of moving the mill around etc.


For fun, now raise the knee, locking it at various heights and see what kind
of deviation you have. Do he same for X and Y travel.

I tried X travel last night, will try Y and Z also one day.

i

On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 16:49:02 +0700, Bruce
wrote:


I suggest that you add pads, say 6 X 6 X 1/2" steel, spot drilled for
your leveling bolts. The way your photos show it you have the machine
bearing only on the 1 inch bolts. A bit of vibration and I guarantee
that one or the other of those bolts will abrade their way into the
floor and ruin your careful leveling.

That current set-up he built is going to just rape his concrete floor.
Dave

On Mon, 23 Jul 2007 02:11:48 GMT, dav1936531 wrote:
On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 16:49:02 +0700, Bruce
wrote:


I suggest that you add pads, say 6 X 6 X 1/2" steel, spot drilled for
your leveling bolts. The way your photos show it you have the machine
bearing only on the 1 inch bolts. A bit of vibration and I guarantee
that one or the other of those bolts will abrade their way into the
floor and ruin your careful leveling.

That current set-up he built is going to just rape his concrete floor.
Dave

OK, I found some suitable product, McMaster item 7786T12. These are 2"
diameter, 1/2" thick steel bars. I will mill depressions in them,
maybe 1/8" deep, that would accommodate the 1" rods tp keep them
centered. They cost $2.47 each, which is relatively affordable.

Milling 1 1/6" wide roud holes would ne a nice first application for
the rotary table.

i

On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 22:09:12 -0500, Ignoramus23517
wrote:

On Mon, 23 Jul 2007 02:11:48 GMT, dav1936531 wrote:
On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 16:49:02 +0700, Bruce
wrote:


I suggest that you add pads, say 6 X 6 X 1/2" steel, spot drilled for
your leveling bolts. The way your photos show it you have the machine
bearing only on the 1 inch bolts. A bit of vibration and I guarantee
that one or the other of those bolts will abrade their way into the
floor and ruin your careful leveling.

That current set-up he built is going to just rape his concrete floor.
Dave

OK, I found some suitable product, McMaster item 7786T12. These are 2"
diameter, 1/2" thick steel bars. I will mill depressions in them,
maybe 1/8" deep, that would accommodate the 1" rods tp keep them
centered. They cost $2.47 each, which is relatively affordable.

Milling 1 1/6" wide roud holes would ne a nice first application for
the rotary table.

i


That will work, though simply plunging a 1" endmill in the center is
quicker.

Gunner, who wonders why you have to level a BP in the first place.
All your references will be from the table......

Ignoramus23517 wrote:

You made a rolling base and then went through the trouble of leveling the
machine to the limits of your level. Â*Sorta sounds contradictory. Â*Are
you planning on moving it anytime soon?

I am not planning to move it, ... [snip] I like my current base due to
ease of moving the mill around etc.

I *like* these answers. :-))

Nick

On Mon, 23 Jul 2007 04:46:16 GMT, Gunner Asch
wrote:


Gunner, who wonders why you have to level a BP in the first place.
All your references will be from the table......

So the bagel doesn't roll off and the coffee doesn't spill G


Mark Rand
RTFM

On Mon, 23 Jul 2007 17:40:07 +0100, Mark Rand wrote:
On Mon, 23 Jul 2007 04:46:16 GMT, Gunner Asch
wrote:


Gunner, who wonders why you have to level a BP in the first place.
All your references will be from the table......

So the bagel doesn't roll off and the coffee doesn't spill G

That, and also it is nice to use a little machinist level to mount
parts in a vise horizontally, knowing that horizontal means they will
be parallel to the table..

i

"Ignoramus3627" wrote in message
...
That, and also it is nice to use a little machinist level to mount
parts in a vise horizontally, knowing that horizontal means they will
be parallel to the table..

Um.... Iggy? Do you _really_ rely upon a level to set work parallel to the
table?

Um..... they make this little thingy called a "dial indicator" for that
work.

G
LLoyd

Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:

Um.... Iggy? *Do you _really_ rely upon a level to set work parallel to
the table?

Um..... they make this little thingy called a "dial indicator" for that
work.

He does it that way:
Put the magnetic base onto the table, dial indicator in it pointing onto
work and move table along X. *DEAD* parallel! :-)))


Nick

On Mon, 23 Jul 2007 12:56:41 -0400, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:

"Ignoramus3627" wrote in message
...
That, and also it is nice to use a little machinist level to mount
parts in a vise horizontally, knowing that horizontal means they will
be parallel to the table..

Um.... Iggy? Do you _really_ rely upon a level to set work parallel to the
table?

Um..... they make this little thingy called a "dial indicator" for that
work.


It depends on how accurate I want to be. Not claiming to be an expert
or anything.

i

"Ignoramus3627" wrote in message
...
It depends on how accurate I want to be. Not claiming to be an expert
or anything.

Well, if you had a _really_good_ metrology level, and you _really_knew_ how
to use it, and _really_had_the_time_ to set it that way.... seein' how's the
heat of your hand could jump the bubble half a line...

LLoyd

On Mon, 23 Jul 2007 13:49:50 -0400, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:

"Ignoramus3627" wrote in message
...
It depends on how accurate I want to be. Not claiming to be an expert
or anything.

Well, if you had a _really_good_ metrology level, and you _really_knew_ how
to use it, and _really_had_the_time_ to set it that way.... seein' how's the
heat of your hand could jump the bubble half a line...

Lloyd, the machinist levels offer some reasonable degree of accuracy,
I think. Comparable to a dial indicator over a not too much distance.

Anyway, I am sure that you know 100x more about this stuff, than I do.

i

On Mon, 23 Jul 2007 19:11:20 +0200, Nick Mueller
wrote:

Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:

Um.... Iggy? *Do you _really_ rely upon a level to set work parallel to
the table?

Um..... they make this little thingy called a "dial indicator" for that
work.

He does it that way:
Put the magnetic base onto the table, dial indicator in it pointing onto
work and move table along X. *DEAD* parallel! :-)))


Nick

*plonk* ****ing nazi
Hroller McKnutt
Pornstar, Mad Scientist, Genius for Hire
Girls chased and caught!

On Mon, 23 Jul 2007 11:49:24 -0500, Ignoramus3627
wrote:

On Mon, 23 Jul 2007 17:40:07 +0100, Mark Rand wrote:
On Mon, 23 Jul 2007 04:46:16 GMT, Gunner Asch
wrote:


Gunner, who wonders why you have to level a BP in the first place.
All your references will be from the table......

So the bagel doesn't roll off and the coffee doesn't spill G

That, and also it is nice to use a little machinist level to mount
parts in a vise horizontally, knowing that horizontal means they will
be parallel to the table..

i

Thats NEVER going to happen in BP. Table sag and fixture deformation
will bite you in the ass.

It might work on a big assed K&T, etc...but not on a Gumby..er
Bridgeport

Gunner