Made machine feet for my Bridgeport -- pix and question
I made adjustable machine feet. I want to perfectly level my
Bridgeport mill by adjusting legs. Then some manipulations of parts during milling would become easier, as I could use a machinist level to align parts in vises horizontally. I want them to also be retractable so that I can mount the casters back and move the mill around. These feet are made from 1"-10 all thread studs and same nuts, welded onto 0.25x1.5x4.75" steel flats. http://igor.chudov.com/projects/My-B...-Machine-Feet/ I have not yet welded them to the mill's bottom frame (which is a homemade frame for casters, if you recall, I would not be welding these feet to the actual machine base). My question is whether I need some set screw or some such, to prevent these 1" allthread studs from working themselves out of alignment, over the years, due to vibration. Or would they just hold in place. Right now, they are held by the nuts to the extent of being either difficult or impossible to turn by hand, but all are easy to turn with a wrench. (due to changes of alignment that happened during welding). My gut feeling is that setscrews are not necessary, but I wanted to hear some opinions first. thanks i |
Made machine feet for my Bridgeport -- pix and question
In article ,
Ignoramus7760 wrote: These feet are made from 1"-10 all thread studs and same nuts, welded onto 0.25x1.5x4.75" steel flats. If you have movement (not too likely) a jam nut is simple, and perhaps more effective as well. -- Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by |
Made machine feet for my Bridgeport -- pix and question
Ignoramus7760 wrote:
I made adjustable machine feet. I want to perfectly level my Bridgeport mill by adjusting legs. Then some manipulations of parts during milling would become easier, as I could use a machinist level to align parts in vises horizontally. I want them to also be retractable so that I can mount the casters back and move the mill around. These feet are made from 1"-10 all thread studs and same nuts, welded onto 0.25x1.5x4.75" steel flats. http://igor.chudov.com/projects/My-B...-Machine-Feet/ I have not yet welded them to the mill's bottom frame (which is a homemade frame for casters, if you recall, I would not be welding these feet to the actual machine base). My question is whether I need some set screw or some such, to prevent these 1" allthread studs from working themselves out of alignment, over the years, due to vibration. Or would they just hold in place. Right now, they are held by the nuts to the extent of being either difficult or impossible to turn by hand, but all are easy to turn with a wrench. (due to changes of alignment that happened during welding). My gut feeling is that setscrews are not necessary, but I wanted to hear some opinions first. thanks i Add a jam nut to each, after final level is achieved snug them up. Paul -- ----------------------------------------- It's a Linux world....well, it oughta be. ----------------------------------------- |
Made machine feet for my Bridgeport -- pix and question
On Sat, 21 Jul 2007 19:52:20 -0500, Paul wrote:
Add a jam nut to each, after final level is achieved snug them up. Paul (and Ecnerwal) thanks. I am not sure if there is clearance for a jam nut, due to nuts having been welded to flat bars. i |
Made machine feet for my Bridgeport -- pix and question
On Jul 21, 7:23 pm, Ignoramus7760
wrote: I made adjustable machine feet. I want to perfectly level my Bridgeport mill by adjusting legs. Then some manipulations of parts during milling would become easier, as I could use a machinist level to align parts in vises horizontally. I want them to also be retractable so that I can mount the casters back and move the mill around. These feet are made from 1"-10 all thread studs and same nuts, welded onto 0.25x1.5x4.75" steel flats. http://igor.chudov.com/projects/My-B...stable-Machine... I have not yet welded them to the mill's bottom frame (which is a homemade frame for casters, if you recall, I would not be welding these feet to the actual machine base). My question is whether I need some set screw or some such, to prevent these 1" allthread studs from working themselves out of alignment, over the years, due to vibration. Or would they just hold in place. Right now, they are held by the nuts to the extent of being either difficult or impossible to turn by hand, but all are easy to turn with a wrench. (due to changes of alignment that happened during welding). My gut feeling is that setscrews are not necessary, but I wanted to hear some opinions first. thanks i Good idea Ig and well excuted. I would use a jam nut...it will hold. FYI...you may want to use the long all thread coupling nuts next time...it makes the job easier. They are normally used to connect lengths of all thread together. I used them on a similar project and they eliminated the problem of trying to keep a series of smaller nuts aligned while welding. http://www.cnanchor.com.cn/product0.asp?id=562 TMT |
Made machine feet for my Bridgeport -- pix and question
On Sat, 21 Jul 2007 18:37:33 -0700, Too_Many_Tools wrote:
Good idea Ig and well excuted. I would use a jam nut...it will hold. thanks. I wil try to think of a way to enable me to use a jam nut. Maybe I would use a couple of washers. In reality, I think that I am worrying about nothing and there are no forces that could make the bolts turn in their nuts. FYI...you may want to use the long all thread coupling nuts next time...it makes the job easier. They are normally used to connect lengths of all thread together. I used them on a similar project and they eliminated the problem of trying to keep a series of smaller nuts aligned while welding. http://www.cnanchor.com.cn/product0.asp?id=562 thanks, the ones I saw at McMaster, in that size, were very expensive. I welded the nuts, with the allthread studs in them, so that they would keep some alignment. Which they sort of did, the studs go all the way in them, but they are tighter than they were to begin with. By the way, I used a hex collet holder to machine 3/4" hex on the studs (for sockets and wrenches) i i i |
Made machine feet for my Bridgeport -- pix and question
"Ignoramus7760" wrote in message ... I made adjustable machine feet. I want to perfectly level my SNIP http://igor.chudov.com/projects/My-B...-Machine-Feet/ SNIP But now there is no way to refit the swarf tray - or haven't you got one? AWEM |
Made machine feet for my Bridgeport -- pix and question
On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 09:09:53 +0100, "Andrew Mawson"
wrote: "Ignoramus7760" wrote in message m... I made adjustable machine feet. I want to perfectly level my SNIP http://igor.chudov.com/projects/My-B...-Machine-Feet/ SNIP But now there is no way to refit the swarf tray - or haven't you got one? AWEM I suggest that you add pads, say 6 X 6 X 1/2" steel, spot drilled for your leveling bolts. The way your photos show it you have the machine bearing only on the 1 inch bolts. A bit of vibration and I guarantee that one or the other of those bolts will abrade their way into the floor and ruin your careful leveling. It also helps to place a layer of something between the bottom of the pad and the floor th ensure that the pad bears evenly on the floor, i.e., doesn't just hit the high spots, as it were. Bruce in Bangkok (brucepaigeatgmaildotcom) -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
Made machine feet for my Bridgeport -- pix and question
On Sat, 21 Jul 2007 21:10:56 -0500, Ignoramus7760
wrote: On Sat, 21 Jul 2007 18:37:33 -0700, Too_Many_Tools wrote: Good idea Ig and well excuted. I would use a jam nut...it will hold. snip thanks, the ones I saw at McMaster, in that size, were very expensive. I welded the nuts, with the allthread studs in them, so that they would keep some alignment. Which they sort of did, the studs go all the way in them, but they are tighter than they were to begin with. By the way, I used a hex collet holder to machine 3/4" hex on the studs (for sockets and wrenches) When I did my weight bench, I welded 3/4 hex heavy nuts on square tube, knowing the nuts would shrink from the welding. I just ran a tap through after welding. Pete Keillor |
Made machine feet for my Bridgeport -- pix and question
On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 09:09:53 +0100, Andrew Mawson wrote:
But now there is no way to refit the swarf tray - or haven't you got one? I do not have one -- but swaRF IS easy to sweep off concrete and vacuum. i |
Made machine feet for my Bridgeport -- pix and question
"Ignoramus23517" wrote in message ... On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 09:09:53 +0100, Andrew Mawson wrote: But now there is no way to refit the swarf tray - or haven't you got one? I do not have one -- but swaRF IS easy to sweep off concrete and vacuum. i ....ah but if you are using coolant, it isn't just swarf that the swarf tray collects - been there and got the T shirt ! AWEM |
Made machine feet for my Bridgeport -- pix and question
On Jul 21, 9:10 pm, Ignoramus7760
wrote: On Sat, 21 Jul 2007 18:37:33 -0700, Too_Many_Tools wrote: Good idea Ig and well excuted. I would use a jam nut...it will hold. thanks. I wil try to think of a way to enable me to use a jam nut. Maybe I would use a couple of washers. In reality, I think that I am worrying about nothing and there are no forces that could make the bolts turn in their nuts. FYI...you may want to use the long all thread coupling nuts next time...it makes the job easier. They are normally used to connect lengths of all thread together. I used them on a similar project and they eliminated the problem of trying to keep a series of smaller nuts aligned while welding. http://www.cnanchor.com.cn/product0.asp?id=562 thanks, the ones I saw at McMaster, in that size, were very expensive. I welded the nuts, with the allthread studs in them, so that they would keep some alignment. Which they sort of did, the studs go all the way in them, but they are tighter than they were to begin with. By the way, I used a hex collet holder to machine 3/4" hex on the studs (for sockets and wrenches) i i i You are located in the Midwest, aren't you? When I travel to Midwest, I stop and pick up supplies along the trip route at Ace Hardware and TSC stores both of which did have these nuts (1" diameter) in stock and at a reasonable cost. Bear in mind that inventories do change and they may not carry them any longer. TMT |
Made machine feet for my Bridgeport -- pix and question
On Jul 22, 4:49 am, Bruce wrote:
On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 09:09:53 +0100, "Andrew Mawson" wrote: "Ignoramus7760" wrote in message m... I made adjustable machine feet. I want to perfectly level my SNIP http://igor.chudov.com/projects/My-B...stable-Machine... SNIP But now there is no way to refit the swarf tray - or haven't you got one? AWEM I suggest that you add pads, say 6 X 6 X 1/2" steel, spot drilled for your leveling bolts. The way your photos show it you have the machine bearing only on the 1 inch bolts. A bit of vibration and I guarantee that one or the other of those bolts will abrade their way into the floor and ruin your careful leveling. It also helps to place a layer of something between the bottom of the pad and the floor th ensure that the pad bears evenly on the floor, i.e., doesn't just hit the high spots, as it were. Bruce in Bangkok (brucepaigeatgmaildotcom) -- Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com I would agree with Bruce...pads would be a good idea. TMT |
Made machine feet for my Bridgeport -- pix and question
Ignoramus7760 wrote:
I made adjustable machine feet. I want to perfectly level my Bridgeport mill by adjusting legs. Then some manipulations of parts during milling would become easier, as I could use a machinist level to align parts in vises horizontally. I want them to also be retractable so that I can mount the casters back and move the mill around. Iggy, You made a rolling base and then went through the trouble of leveling the machine to the limits of your level. Sorta sounds contradictory. Are you planning on moving it anytime soon? For fun, now raise the knee, locking it at various heights and see what kind of deviation you have. Do he same for X and Y travel. Wes |
Made machine feet for my Bridgeport -- pix and question
On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 14:40:32 -0400, Wes wrote:
Ignoramus7760 wrote: I made adjustable machine feet. I want to perfectly level my Bridgeport mill by adjusting legs. Then some manipulations of parts during milling would become easier, as I could use a machinist level to align parts in vises horizontally. I want them to also be retractable so that I can mount the casters back and move the mill around. Iggy, You made a rolling base and then went through the trouble of leveling the machine to the limits of your level. Sorta sounds contradictory. Are you planning on moving it anytime soon? I am not planning to move it, but leveling it once more would not take as much time. It is a learning curve. I like my current base due to ease of moving the mill around etc. For fun, now raise the knee, locking it at various heights and see what kind of deviation you have. Do he same for X and Y travel. I tried X travel last night, will try Y and Z also one day. i |
Made machine feet for my Bridgeport -- pix and question
On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 16:49:02 +0700, Bruce
wrote: I suggest that you add pads, say 6 X 6 X 1/2" steel, spot drilled for your leveling bolts. The way your photos show it you have the machine bearing only on the 1 inch bolts. A bit of vibration and I guarantee that one or the other of those bolts will abrade their way into the floor and ruin your careful leveling. That current set-up he built is going to just rape his concrete floor. Dave |
Made machine feet for my Bridgeport -- pix and question
On Mon, 23 Jul 2007 02:11:48 GMT, dav1936531 wrote:
On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 16:49:02 +0700, Bruce wrote: I suggest that you add pads, say 6 X 6 X 1/2" steel, spot drilled for your leveling bolts. The way your photos show it you have the machine bearing only on the 1 inch bolts. A bit of vibration and I guarantee that one or the other of those bolts will abrade their way into the floor and ruin your careful leveling. That current set-up he built is going to just rape his concrete floor. Dave OK, I found some suitable product, McMaster item 7786T12. These are 2" diameter, 1/2" thick steel bars. I will mill depressions in them, maybe 1/8" deep, that would accommodate the 1" rods tp keep them centered. They cost $2.47 each, which is relatively affordable. Milling 1 1/6" wide roud holes would ne a nice first application for the rotary table. i |
Made machine feet for my Bridgeport -- pix and question
On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 22:09:12 -0500, Ignoramus23517
wrote: On Mon, 23 Jul 2007 02:11:48 GMT, dav1936531 wrote: On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 16:49:02 +0700, Bruce wrote: I suggest that you add pads, say 6 X 6 X 1/2" steel, spot drilled for your leveling bolts. The way your photos show it you have the machine bearing only on the 1 inch bolts. A bit of vibration and I guarantee that one or the other of those bolts will abrade their way into the floor and ruin your careful leveling. That current set-up he built is going to just rape his concrete floor. Dave OK, I found some suitable product, McMaster item 7786T12. These are 2" diameter, 1/2" thick steel bars. I will mill depressions in them, maybe 1/8" deep, that would accommodate the 1" rods tp keep them centered. They cost $2.47 each, which is relatively affordable. Milling 1 1/6" wide roud holes would ne a nice first application for the rotary table. i That will work, though simply plunging a 1" endmill in the center is quicker. Gunner, who wonders why you have to level a BP in the first place. All your references will be from the table...... |
Made machine feet for my Bridgeport -- pix and question
Ignoramus23517 wrote:
You made a rolling base and then went through the trouble of leveling the machine to the limits of your level. Â*Sorta sounds contradictory. Â*Are you planning on moving it anytime soon? I am not planning to move it, ... [snip] I like my current base due to ease of moving the mill around etc. I *like* these answers. :-)) Nick |
Made machine feet for my Bridgeport -- pix and question
On Mon, 23 Jul 2007 04:46:16 GMT, Gunner Asch
wrote: Gunner, who wonders why you have to level a BP in the first place. All your references will be from the table...... So the bagel doesn't roll off and the coffee doesn't spill G Mark Rand RTFM |
Made machine feet for my Bridgeport -- pix and question
On Mon, 23 Jul 2007 17:40:07 +0100, Mark Rand wrote:
On Mon, 23 Jul 2007 04:46:16 GMT, Gunner Asch wrote: Gunner, who wonders why you have to level a BP in the first place. All your references will be from the table...... So the bagel doesn't roll off and the coffee doesn't spill G That, and also it is nice to use a little machinist level to mount parts in a vise horizontally, knowing that horizontal means they will be parallel to the table.. i |
Made machine feet for my Bridgeport -- pix and question
"Ignoramus3627" wrote in message ... That, and also it is nice to use a little machinist level to mount parts in a vise horizontally, knowing that horizontal means they will be parallel to the table.. Um.... Iggy? Do you _really_ rely upon a level to set work parallel to the table? Um..... they make this little thingy called a "dial indicator" for that work. G LLoyd |
Made machine feet for my Bridgeport -- pix and question
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
Um.... Iggy? *Do you _really_ rely upon a level to set work parallel to the table? Um..... they make this little thingy called a "dial indicator" for that work. He does it that way: Put the magnetic base onto the table, dial indicator in it pointing onto work and move table along X. *DEAD* parallel! :-))) Nick |
Made machine feet for my Bridgeport -- pix and question
On Mon, 23 Jul 2007 12:56:41 -0400, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
"Ignoramus3627" wrote in message ... That, and also it is nice to use a little machinist level to mount parts in a vise horizontally, knowing that horizontal means they will be parallel to the table.. Um.... Iggy? Do you _really_ rely upon a level to set work parallel to the table? Um..... they make this little thingy called a "dial indicator" for that work. It depends on how accurate I want to be. Not claiming to be an expert or anything. i |
Made machine feet for my Bridgeport -- pix and question
"Ignoramus3627" wrote in message ... It depends on how accurate I want to be. Not claiming to be an expert or anything. Well, if you had a _really_good_ metrology level, and you _really_knew_ how to use it, and _really_had_the_time_ to set it that way.... seein' how's the heat of your hand could jump the bubble half a line... LLoyd |
Made machine feet for my Bridgeport -- pix and question
On Mon, 23 Jul 2007 13:49:50 -0400, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
"Ignoramus3627" wrote in message ... It depends on how accurate I want to be. Not claiming to be an expert or anything. Well, if you had a _really_good_ metrology level, and you _really_knew_ how to use it, and _really_had_the_time_ to set it that way.... seein' how's the heat of your hand could jump the bubble half a line... Lloyd, the machinist levels offer some reasonable degree of accuracy, I think. Comparable to a dial indicator over a not too much distance. Anyway, I am sure that you know 100x more about this stuff, than I do. i |
Made machine feet for my Bridgeport -- pix and question
On Mon, 23 Jul 2007 19:11:20 +0200, Nick Mueller
wrote: Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote: Um.... Iggy? *Do you _really_ rely upon a level to set work parallel to the table? Um..... they make this little thingy called a "dial indicator" for that work. He does it that way: Put the magnetic base onto the table, dial indicator in it pointing onto work and move table along X. *DEAD* parallel! :-))) Nick *plonk* ****ing nazi Hroller McKnutt Pornstar, Mad Scientist, Genius for Hire Girls chased and caught! |
Made machine feet for my Bridgeport -- pix and question
On Mon, 23 Jul 2007 11:49:24 -0500, Ignoramus3627
wrote: On Mon, 23 Jul 2007 17:40:07 +0100, Mark Rand wrote: On Mon, 23 Jul 2007 04:46:16 GMT, Gunner Asch wrote: Gunner, who wonders why you have to level a BP in the first place. All your references will be from the table...... So the bagel doesn't roll off and the coffee doesn't spill G That, and also it is nice to use a little machinist level to mount parts in a vise horizontally, knowing that horizontal means they will be parallel to the table.. i Thats NEVER going to happen in BP. Table sag and fixture deformation will bite you in the ass. It might work on a big assed K&T, etc...but not on a Gumby..er Bridgeport Gunner |
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