I have a little Rockwell 3-phase grinder I picked up recently. It had been wired
completely wrong and today I rewired it and it runs smooth as glass. I have the
same problem with it that I have had with every bench grinder, though. The shaft
spins one way, so the wheels rotate down towards the tool rest. The nut on one
end of the shaft is RH and the nut on the other end is LH. If I put a wrench on
both shaft nuts and crank, one will loosen. The question is, how do I loosen the
other one? I can't for the life of me see why grinder manufacturers don't put a
hole you can put a pin in to lock the shaft for changing wheels. I sure don't
want to put Vise Grips on the naked threads - what is the trick I'm missing?

GWE

I hand tighten then take a long box wench on the nut and slap the far end of
same with another wench. I have been doing this for over 50 years and have
had fellow workers
say I tighten them too much. It is the slap that does it and it works for
me.
Jim

"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
I have a little Rockwell 3-phase grinder I picked up recently. It had been
wired completely wrong and today I rewired it and it runs smooth as glass.
I have the same problem with it that I have had with every bench grinder,
though. The shaft spins one way, so the wheels rotate down towards the tool
rest. The nut on one end of the shaft is RH and the nut on the other end is
LH. If I put a wrench on both shaft nuts and crank, one will loosen. The
question is, how do I loosen the other one? I can't for the life of me see
why grinder manufacturers don't put a hole you can put a pin in to lock the
shaft for changing wheels. I sure don't want to put Vise Grips on the naked
threads - what is the trick I'm missing?

GWE

" Jim Sehr" wrote in message
...
I hand tighten then take a long box wench on the nut and slap the far end
of same with another wench. I have been doing this for over 50 years and
have had fellow workers
say I tighten them too much. It is the slap that does it and it works for
me.
Jim

What size is the other wrench?

They make vise-grips for tubes/shafts. A split thin-walled tube (or roofing
copper, etc) over the unthreaded part of the shaft end that loosened should
give the 'grips a good grip, w/o gouging the shaft.

You might also consider machining (grinding?) a square or hex onto the end
of each shaft, that clears the nut, if you have the extra shaft length.

Now, what's the secret to getting these goddamm wheels to run *true*????
goodgawd....
--
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll
"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
I have a little Rockwell 3-phase grinder I picked up recently. It had been
wired completely wrong and today I rewired it and it runs smooth as glass.
I have the same problem with it that I have had with every bench grinder,
though. The shaft spins one way, so the wheels rotate down towards the tool
rest. The nut on one end of the shaft is RH and the nut on the other end is
LH. If I put a wrench on both shaft nuts and crank, one will loosen. The
question is, how do I loosen the other one? I can't for the life of me see
why grinder manufacturers don't put a hole you can put a pin in to lock the
shaft for changing wheels. I sure don't want to put Vise Grips on the naked
threads - what is the trick I'm missing?

GWE

"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
I have a little Rockwell 3-phase grinder I picked up recently. It had been
wired completely wrong and today I rewired it and it runs smooth as glass.
I have the same problem with it that I have had with every bench grinder,
though. The shaft spins one way, so the wheels rotate down towards the tool
rest. The nut on one end of the shaft is RH and the nut on the other end is
LH. If I put a wrench on both shaft nuts and crank, one will loosen. The
question is, how do I loosen the other one? I can't for the life of me see
why grinder manufacturers don't put a hole you can put a pin in to lock the
shaft for changing wheels. I sure don't want to put Vise Grips on the naked
threads - what is the trick I'm missing?

GWE
Hold it with your hand on the wheel and put an impact wrench on the other
end. (I know that sounds a bit like Altavoz (sp) but it isn't a lathe
chuck)

I had the same problem with my Baldor. I did use visegrips, but put a
folded napkin between the jaws and threads.

i

On Sun, 23 Apr 2006 15:10:40 -0700, Grant Erwin wrote:
I have a little Rockwell 3-phase grinder I picked up recently. It had been wired
completely wrong and today I rewired it and it runs smooth as glass. I have the
same problem with it that I have had with every bench grinder, though. The shaft
spins one way, so the wheels rotate down towards the tool rest. The nut on one
end of the shaft is RH and the nut on the other end is LH. If I put a wrench on
both shaft nuts and crank, one will loosen. The question is, how do I loosen the
other one? I can't for the life of me see why grinder manufacturers don't put a
hole you can put a pin in to lock the shaft for changing wheels. I sure don't
want to put Vise Grips on the naked threads - what is the trick I'm missing?

GWE

Impact it off, tighten with a rag stuck in the opposite wheel. With use the
wheel will tighten itself.

I bought a grinder cheap one time. It was missing the left hand nut and the
guy thought it was almost junk without that special nut. Went to the auto
parts and bought a Chrysler left hand lug nut from the sixties vintage.

How about using a strap wrench around the wheel?

Bruce

I may have to resort to turning up a disk which has a hole bored in its
periphery. Then I could install the disk instead of a grinding wheel, put a pin
in the hole and grab onto it, and then I could crack the nut on the other end.

This is a nice little grinder from the 1970s it looks like. I think there's a
little tiny bit of corrosion in the shaft nut.

I tried grabbing a wheel on the other end to loosen the stuck nut, didn't work.
I could always stick a scrap grinding wheel on and grab that with Vise-Grips, I
have about six old bench grinding wheels, all scrappers.

GWE

Ignoramus17838 wrote:
I had the same problem with my Baldor. I did use visegrips, but put a
folded napkin between the jaws and threads.

i

On Sun, 23 Apr 2006 15:10:40 -0700, Grant Erwin wrote:

I have a little Rockwell 3-phase grinder I picked up recently. It had been wired
completely wrong and today I rewired it and it runs smooth as glass. I have the
same problem with it that I have had with every bench grinder, though. The shaft
spins one way, so the wheels rotate down towards the tool rest. The nut on one
end of the shaft is RH and the nut on the other end is LH. If I put a wrench on
both shaft nuts and crank, one will loosen. The question is, how do I loosen the
other one? I can't for the life of me see why grinder manufacturers don't put a
hole you can put a pin in to lock the shaft for changing wheels. I sure don't
want to put Vise Grips on the naked threads - what is the trick I'm missing?

GWE

If the nut takes a 3/4 box wrench I use the next size larger or smaller
size.
Jim
"Tom Gardner" wrote in message
om...

" Jim Sehr" wrote in message
...
I hand tighten then take a long box wench on the nut and slap the far end
of same with another wench. I have been doing this for over 50 years and
have had fellow workers
say I tighten them too much. It is the slap that does it and it works for
me.
Jim

What size is the other wrench?

OK, I took a short nap and as often happens woke up with the solution. The
solution in this case is laughably trivial - if I turn the wrenches one way and
it removes the wrong shaft nut, the solution is simply to turn the wrenches the
other way. I have had a serious case of cranial rectumitis over this issue for
many years apparently.

Think if it were a piece of e.g. allthread. Grab one nut and put a wrench on the
other, and if you tighten one nut you tighten them both, right? Well, if one end
of a shaft has a RH thread and the other has a LH thread, then if you tighten
one you loosen the other. So removing isn't a problem, it's tightening that's a
problem, and that must be why everyone was telling me to use impact to tighten it.

Sigh. At least the world is back in order, and I got my other wheel off.

GWE

On Sun, 23 Apr 2006 15:10:40 -0700, Grant Erwin
wrote:

I have a little Rockwell 3-phase grinder I picked up recently. It had been wired
completely wrong and today I rewired it and it runs smooth as glass. I have the
same problem with it that I have had with every bench grinder, though. The shaft
spins one way, so the wheels rotate down towards the tool rest. The nut on one
end of the shaft is RH and the nut on the other end is LH. If I put a wrench on
both shaft nuts and crank, one will loosen. The question is, how do I loosen the
other one? I can't for the life of me see why grinder manufacturers don't put a
hole you can put a pin in to lock the shaft for changing wheels. I sure don't
want to put Vise Grips on the naked threads - what is the trick I'm missing?

GWE
Greetings Grant,
If the threads are clean so that the nut spins easily then you should
be able to get it tight enough just by holding onto the grinding
wheel. This is how I was taught 31 years ago and it has always worked
well.
Cheers,
Eric

" Jim Sehr" wrote in message
...
If the nut takes a 3/4 box wrench I use the next size larger or smaller
size.
Jim

Good restraint!

Proctologically Violated©® wrote:
Now, what's the secret to getting these goddamm wheels to run
*true*???? goodgawd....
I've been wondering the same thing ! Changed out the stones on my 25 yr old
unit and the new stones will *not* run true . I always thought the flange
should bear against a shoulder on the shaft , which would hold it true . The
damn flanges aren't even a good fit on the shaft ! The old stones ran true
.... but I finally took the dresser to the sides of the pink one , just to
have a decent chance at grinding lathe bits .


--
Snag
'76 FLH "Bag Lady"
"A hand shift is a manly shift ."
shamelessly stolen
none to one to reply

"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
OK, I took a short nap and as often happens woke up with the solution. The
solution in this case is laughably trivial - if I turn the wrenches one
way and it removes the wrong shaft nut, the solution is simply to turn the
wrenches the other way. I have had a serious case of cranial rectumitis
over this issue for many years apparently.

Think if it were a piece of e.g. allthread. Grab one nut and put a wrench
on the other, and if you tighten one nut you tighten them both, right?
Well, if one end of a shaft has a RH thread and the other has a LH thread,
then if you tighten one you loosen the other. So removing isn't a problem,
it's tightening that's a problem, and that must be why everyone was
telling me to use impact to tighten it.

Sigh. At least the world is back in order, and I got my other wheel off.

GWE
Sorry .. I thought you were trying to get your nuts off .. I definately
wouldn't use an impact to put em on.

Get a short piece of copper pipe that fits reasonably well over the threaded
end of the shaft, cut it about an inch long, and then split it lengthwise
(so that it's a nearly-closed C shape). Put it over the threads on one end
and grab it with a pair of water-pump pliers (my preference) or vise-grips,
while you tighten or loosen the other end.

I'm with you, though. Why in the world can't they put some kind of shaft
lock on the damn things?

Tom Dacon

"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
I have a little Rockwell 3-phase grinder I picked up recently. It had been
wired completely wrong and today I rewired it and it runs smooth as glass.
I have the same problem with it that I have had with every bench grinder,
though. The shaft spins one way, so the wheels rotate down towards the tool
rest. The nut on one end of the shaft is RH and the nut on the other end is
LH. If I put a wrench on both shaft nuts and crank, one will loosen. The
question is, how do I loosen the other one? I can't for the life of me see
why grinder manufacturers don't put a hole you can put a pin in to lock the
shaft for changing wheels. I sure don't want to put Vise Grips on the naked
threads - what is the trick I'm missing?

GWE

On Sun, 23 Apr 2006 17:55:24 -0500, "Mike"
wrote:

Impact it off, tighten with a rag stuck in the opposite wheel. With use the
wheel will tighten itself.

I bought a grinder cheap one time. It was missing the left hand nut and the
guy thought it was almost junk without that special nut. Went to the auto
parts and bought a Chrysler left hand lug nut from the sixties vintage.


Nearly every Ace Hardware store has the proper size(s) in their
Specialty Fasteners bins. The nifty Souix I scrounged a month ago was
missing the lefthand nut. Cost me $0.85 at Ace Hardware.

Takes longer to run down than my best Baldor Tool grinder.

Gunner


"I think this is because of your belief in biological Marxism.
As a genetic communist you feel that noticing behavioural
patterns relating to race would cause a conflict with your belief
in biological Marxism." Big Pete, famous Usenet Racist

On Mon, 24 Apr 2006 00:48:46 -0700, xray
wrote:

On Mon, 24 Apr 2006 07:07:17 GMT, Gunner wrote:

Nearly every Ace Hardware store has the proper size(s) in their
Specialty Fasteners bins. The nifty Souix I scrounged a month ago was
missing the lefthand nut. Cost me $0.85 at Ace Hardware.

Wow. You must live in a time warp. The last decent old-style hardware
store near me vaporized years ago. Killed by home despot, I think. There
is still one pretty decent one not too far away (not Ace), and I go
there a lot, but I'd be really surprised if I could find a left-handed
nut there.

Consider yourself lucky.


The closest Home Depot is 41 miles away. Most small towns still have
an Ace Hardware or similar. Often times in conjunction with a lumber
yard if the town is quite small.


Most of them have a Generic Fastener Assortment..usually US/English
sizes..with a smattering of metric. Nearly all of them have at least
one assortment of left handed nuts..normally 3/8-3/4, based on my
experince shopping in small towns. The GFA vender usually includes
these as part of their "package"

Gunner

"I think this is because of your belief in biological Marxism.
As a genetic communist you feel that noticing behavioural
patterns relating to race would cause a conflict with your belief
in biological Marxism." Big Pete, famous Usenet Racist

Grant Erwin wrote:
I have a little Rockwell 3-phase grinder I picked up recently. It had
been wired completely wrong and today I rewired it and it runs smooth as
glass. I have the same problem with it that I have had with every bench
grinder, though. The shaft spins one way, so the wheels rotate down
towards the tool rest. The nut on one end of the shaft is RH and the nut
on the other end is LH. If I put a wrench on both shaft nuts and crank,
one will loosen. The question is, how do I loosen the other one? I can't
for the life of me see why grinder manufacturers don't put a hole you
can put a pin in to lock the shaft for changing wheels. I sure don't
want to put Vise Grips on the naked threads - what is the trick I'm
missing?

GWE

I've always wedged a stick of wood between the guard and the grinding
wheel. Never fails for me.

"syoung" wrote in message ...
Grant Erwin wrote:
I have a little Rockwell 3-phase grinder I picked up recently. It had
been wired completely wrong and today I rewired it and it runs smooth as
glass. I have the same problem with it that I have had with every bench
grinder, though. The shaft spins one way, so the wheels rotate down
towards the tool rest. The nut on one end of the shaft is RH and the nut
on the other end is LH. If I put a wrench on both shaft nuts and crank,
one will loosen. The question is, how do I loosen the other one? I can't
for the life of me see why grinder manufacturers don't put a hole you can
put a pin in to lock the shaft for changing wheels. I sure don't want to
put Vise Grips on the naked threads - what is the trick I'm missing?

Heh, heh! Just change one wheel at a time! After the RH nut's wheel has
been replaced, turn the wrench the OTHER WAY to get the LH nut off!
GGG

LLoyd