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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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I finally removed the chuck from the spindle on my circa 1973 AMT 1/2" bench
drill press -- the one that has been the subject of several threads including one that concluded that I was absolutely crazy for believing a nameplate that said it has a JT#2-1/2 spindle. Well, here are the measurements -- along with specifications I've gotten from the web JT# Large Dia Small Dia Length #2 .5590" .4876" .8750" #2short .5488" .4876" .7500" #2-1/2 .677" .625" 1.055" --- my AMT #3 .8100" .7461" 1.2188 It's also not anything close to any Morse taper either, nor a B+S. I guess it really is a JT#2-1/2 and nothing else. Which means that there's no way that I can replace the chuck with anything better today. Also, in removing the chuck, I discovered that the set screw that holds the pulley to the shaft was missing so all speeds under load were slower than I thought they were. I doubt that this had any effect on the runout, but I will measure it after replacing the chuck just to make sure that I haven't made it worse. Norm |
#2
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![]() "Norm Dresner" wrote in message ... I finally removed the chuck from the spindle on my circa 1973 AMT 1/2" bench drill press -- the one that has been the subject of several threads including one that concluded that I was absolutely crazy for believing a nameplate that said it has a JT#2-1/2 spindle. Perhaps you're over reacting. It's also not anything close to any Morse taper either, nor a B+S. It would be infinately more surprising for a chuck to have a Morse Taper, than to have a JT 2-1/2. As far as Morse Tapers are concerned, the chuck was attached directly to the spindle, and not an arbour (which sits in the spindle)? We went over this before, but you didn't mention your findings in this thread. Chuck -- arbour -- spindle = Good news. Chuck -- spindle (unlikely) = bad news. Regards, Robin |
#3
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Norm Dresner wrote:
I finally removed the chuck from the spindle on my circa 1973 AMT 1/2" bench drill press -- the one that has been the subject of several threads including one that concluded that I was absolutely crazy for believing a nameplate that said it has a JT#2-1/2 spindle. Nobody thought you were crazy. The reaction you posted to the first question, though... Well, here are the measurements -- along with specifications I've gotten from the web JT# Large Dia Small Dia Length #2 .5590" .4876" .8750" #2short .5488" .4876" .7500" #2-1/2 .677" .625" 1.055" --- my AMT #3 .8100" .7461" 1.2188 It's also not anything close to any Morse taper either, nor a B+S. I guess it really is a JT#2-1/2 and nothing else. Which means that there's no way that I can replace the chuck with anything better today. Given that there are milling machines out there (new, not high end though) that would be hard pressed to keep to the runouts you are reporting, most of us would not bother, methinks. Also, in removing the chuck, I discovered that the set screw that holds the pulley to the shaft was missing so all speeds under load were slower than I thought they were. I doubt that this had any effect on the runout, but I will measure it after replacing the chuck just to make sure that I haven't made it worse. Did you remove the arbor from the drill press? If it IS an MT2 arbor, as the tag said, then ...they are not too expensive to consider just buying a chuck and arbor that match. The arbor would run $20 and the chuck the better part of $200 for new top of the line stuff at retail (estimating). Cheers Trevor Jones Norm |
#4
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"Trevor Jones" wrote in message
... | Did you remove the arbor from the drill press? If it IS an MT2 arbor, | as the tag said, then ...they are not too expensive to consider just | buying a chuck and arbor that match. The arbor would run $20 and the | chuck the better part of $200 for new top of the line stuff at retail | (estimating). | | Cheers | Trevor Jones Given that the manufacturer when they designed the tool in the late 60's (I bought it around 1973) used a now totally non-standard JT#2-1/2 taper, what chance do you think there would be that the spindle/arbor would be replaceable with a modern variety? {NOTE: The AMT "Instruction Manual" parts diagram calls it a "spindle" which is where I'm getting my terminology from} Norm |
#5
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Norm Dresner wrote:
"Trevor Jones" wrote in message ... | Did you remove the arbor from the drill press? If it IS an MT2 arbor, | as the tag said, then ...they are not too expensive to consider just | buying a chuck and arbor that match. The arbor would run $20 and the | chuck the better part of $200 for new top of the line stuff at retail | (estimating). | | Cheers | Trevor Jones Given that the manufacturer when they designed the tool in the late 60's (I bought it around 1973) used a now totally non-standard JT#2-1/2 taper, what chance do you think there would be that the spindle/arbor would be replaceable with a modern variety? {NOTE: The AMT "Instruction Manual" parts diagram calls it a "spindle" which is where I'm getting my terminology from} Norm FWIW I am going to call the rotating part of the drill press the spindle. The adaptor between the spindle and the chuck is the arbor, just so you are clear on what I am saying. Have you removed the chuck arbor from the spindle of the drill press? That is the area that you will find a Morse taper, probably the MT2 that you mentioned in another post, as referred to in the instructions manual. http://www.kbctools.com/usa/Navigati...fm?PDFPage=381 shows that there are no less than 6 different Jacobs Taper arbors available from Jacobs themseves in morse taper 2 size. There are several choices for threaded chuchs as well. There is a chance that the makers built it with a solid shaft with just a male end on it. That was done on some very inexpensive machines, and is not a positive thing. If you really felt it worth the time and money, the DP could be disassembled, and the spindle reground to an available size, like JT2. Most common method for removing a morse taper arbor from a DP is to extend the drill spindle as far down as it will go and there is usually a slot in the side of it. By turning the spindle you should find a position where you can see the removal tang of the morse arbor. A wedge is driven in through the gap to pop the morse arbor out of the spindle. These can be bought, but most just make them as they wear them out. They are about 8 degrees taper, rounded on one edge to mate with the edge of the removal slot, and flat along the other. http://www.beautifuliron.com/mttaper.htm has what you need to know. Cheers Trevor Jones |
#6
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jim rozen wrote:
In article , Trevor Jones says... There is a chance that the makers built it with a solid shaft with just a male end on it. That was done on some very inexpensive machines, and is not a positive thing. lurk off Actually, walker-turner did make a number of their fairly high quality machines with the spindles equipped with a JT33 male thread on the end. Those in particular do work pretty well. I'd guess that they would have worked very well indeed. In practical terms, if one were designing for accuracy, then it does make sense. If the design is to be flexible, the socket makes more sense to me. Then, the Walker Turners were not an inexpensive machine, either. One would expect them to work well. Cheers Trevor Jones |
#7
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![]() "Trevor Jones" wrote in message ... | FWIW I am going to call the rotating part of the drill press the | spindle. The adaptor between the spindle and the chuck is the arbor, | just so you are clear on what I am saying. | I have the exploded parts diagram in the instruction manual. There is exactly one piece which runs down from the pulley to house the chuck. It is a single piece of metal that the manufacturer calls the "spindle". There is no separate arbor. If you doubt me, I'd be glad to scan the diagram and e-mail it to you. Norm |
#8
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Norm Dresner wrote:
"Trevor Jones" wrote in message ... | FWIW I am going to call the rotating part of the drill press the | spindle. The adaptor between the spindle and the chuck is the arbor, | just so you are clear on what I am saying. | I have the exploded parts diagram in the instruction manual. There is exactly one piece which runs down from the pulley to house the chuck. It is a single piece of metal that the manufacturer calls the "spindle". There is no separate arbor. If you doubt me, I'd be glad to scan the diagram and e-mail it to you. Norm Well, amigo, it looks like you are stuck with what you got, unless you are willing to have at the spindle for putting a new taper on it. If there is enough meat to it to put a Morse socket into it, that would be the way to go, otherwise grinding the taper to the next nearest Jacobs taper looks to be about the only option besides a new drill press. If you want to, scan the diagram and put it up in the dropbox at www.metalworking.com where it can be accessed by all interested parties. The instructions for using the dropbox are at the link "using he dropbox" near the top of the page. The upside of that is that it may come useful to someone down the road. Cheers Trevor Jones |
#9
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"Trevor Jones" wrote in message
... | Norm Dresner wrote: | | "Trevor Jones" wrote in message | ... | | FWIW I am going to call the rotating part of the drill press the | | spindle. The adaptor between the spindle and the chuck is the arbor, | | just so you are clear on what I am saying. | | | | I have the exploded parts diagram in the instruction manual. There is | exactly one piece which runs down from the pulley to house the chuck. It is | a single piece of metal that the manufacturer calls the "spindle". There is | no separate arbor. If you doubt me, I'd be glad to scan the diagram and | e-mail it to you. | | Norm | | Well, amigo, it looks like you are stuck with what you got, unless you | are willing to have at the spindle for putting a new taper on it. | | If there is enough meat to it to put a Morse socket into it, that would | be the way to go, otherwise grinding the taper to the next nearest | Jacobs taper looks to be about the only option besides a new drill | press. | | If you want to, scan the diagram and put it up in the dropbox at | www.metalworking.com where it can be accessed by all interested parties. | The instructions for using the dropbox are at the link "using he | dropbox" near the top of the page. The upside of that is that it may | come useful to someone down the road. | | Cheers | Trevor Jones I'm scanning it right now and I'll drop it in as a 3-page .PDF file for the whole manual. Norm |
#10
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"Norm Dresner" wrote in message
... | "Trevor Jones" wrote in message | ... || Norm Dresner wrote: || || "Trevor Jones" wrote in message || ... || | FWIW I am going to call the rotating part of the drill press the || | spindle. The adaptor between the spindle and the chuck is the arbor, || | just so you are clear on what I am saying. || | || || I have the exploded parts diagram in the instruction manual. There is || exactly one piece which runs down from the pulley to house the chuck. | It is || a single piece of metal that the manufacturer calls the "spindle". | There is || no separate arbor. If you doubt me, I'd be glad to scan the diagram and || e-mail it to you. || || Norm || || Well, amigo, it looks like you are stuck with what you got, unless you || are willing to have at the spindle for putting a new taper on it. || || If there is enough meat to it to put a Morse socket into it, that would || be the way to go, otherwise grinding the taper to the next nearest || Jacobs taper looks to be about the only option besides a new drill || press. || || If you want to, scan the diagram and put it up in the dropbox at || www.metalworking.com where it can be accessed by all interested parties. || The instructions for using the dropbox are at the link "using he || dropbox" near the top of the page. The upside of that is that it may || come useful to someone down the road. || || Cheers || Trevor Jones | | I'm scanning it right now and I'll drop it in as a 3-page .PDF file for the | whole manual. | | Norm | Done. The manual is there under the name AMT 4030 Drill Press. Norm |
#11
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Norm Dresner wrote:
Done. The manual is there under the name AMT 4030 Drill Press. Norm We shoulda got that done right in the beginning. Sure would have saved some back and forth. Nice size scan, by the way, clear enough to read and still fast to get on cruddy dialup. I wonder if that really is a section of a morse taper that they used on the spindle. Doesn't much matter, as it seems unlikely that there are any chucks available to fit it as is. As I said before, the amount of runout you say is present is an awful lot less than I would expect to find on a small drill press, and I doubt I would have been doing anything about it without some compelling reason, like a munged up chuck. Got a lathe and a toolpost grinder? Know anyone that has a tool and cutter grinder or cylindrical grinder? To the makers credit, they built a nut in to remove the chuck with. Too bad they could not see fit to use a standard size chuck mount. Cheers Trevor Jones |
#12
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Norm Dresner wrote:
| I'm scanning it right now and I'll drop it in as a 3-page .PDF file for the | whole manual. | | Norm | Done. The manual is there under the name AMT 4030 Drill Press. Norm Very intresting that they callit a Morse taper in the instalation instructions. ?????? ...lew... |
#13
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"Lew Hartswick" wrote in message
.net... | Norm Dresner wrote: | | I'm scanning it right now and I'll drop it in as a 3-page .PDF file for | the | | whole manual. | | | | Norm | | | | Done. The manual is there under the name AMT 4030 Drill Press. | | Norm | | Very intresting that they callit a Morse taper in the instalation | instructions. ?????? | ...lew... Yeah. We've commented on that before since it was the source of some confusion. But the nameplate on the DP I have clearly says JT#2-1/2 and I've concluded that at one time it may have been a MT but they never changed the manual. Norm |
#14
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"Trevor Jones" wrote in message
... | Norm Dresner wrote: | | Done. The manual is there under the name AMT 4030 Drill Press. | | Norm | | We shoulda got that done right in the beginning. Sure would have saved | some back and forth. | | Nice size scan, by the way, clear enough to read and still fast to get | on cruddy dialup. | FWIW, I have a Canon 9950F scanner with ScanSoft OmniPage SE 2.0 which was used to create a Word version of the document which I then threw into Acrobat 7.0 to make the PDF. I'd guess that the conversion to text done at the start of this is responsible for keeping the size down. Norm |
#15
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Trevor Jones wrote:
Norm Dresner wrote: Done. The manual is there under the name AMT 4030 Drill Press. Norm We shoulda got that done right in the beginning. Sure would have saved some back and forth. Nice size scan, by the way, clear enough to read and still fast to get on cruddy dialup. I wonder if that really is a section of a morse taper that they used on the spindle. Doesn't much matter, as it seems unlikely that there are any chucks available to fit it as is. As I said before, the amount of runout you say is present is an awful lot less than I would expect to find on a small drill press, and I doubt I would have been doing anything about it without some compelling reason, like a munged up chuck. Got a lathe and a toolpost grinder? Know anyone that has a tool and cutter grinder or cylindrical grinder? To the makers credit, they built a nut in to remove the chuck with. Too bad they could not see fit to use a standard size chuck mount. Cheers Trevor Jones LOL! Norm still trolling? I told him a couple of weeks ago that he has a drill with a Din standard chuck mount, which incidentally uses a shortened version of the Morse Taper. Tom |
#16
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"Tom" wrote in message
... | Trevor Jones wrote: | | Norm Dresner wrote: | | Done. The manual is there under the name AMT 4030 Drill Press. | | Norm | | We shoulda got that done right in the beginning. Sure would have saved | some back and forth. | | Nice size scan, by the way, clear enough to read and still fast to get | on cruddy dialup. | | I wonder if that really is a section of a morse taper that they used on | the spindle. Doesn't much matter, as it seems unlikely that there are | any chucks available to fit it as is. | | As I said before, the amount of runout you say is present is an awful | lot less than I would expect to find on a small drill press, and I doubt | I would have been doing anything about it without some compelling | reason, like a munged up chuck. | | Got a lathe and a toolpost grinder? Know anyone that has a tool and | cutter grinder or cylindrical grinder? | | To the makers credit, they built a nut in to remove the chuck with. Too | bad they could not see fit to use a standard size chuck mount. | | Cheers | Trevor Jones | | LOL! Norm still trolling? I told him a couple of weeks ago | that he has a drill with a Din standard chuck mount, which | incidentally uses a shortened version of the Morse Taper. | | Tom The measurements are nothing like any Morse Taper on the books. Or don't you care about measurements? |
#17
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Norm Dresner wrote:
"Tom" wrote in message ... | Trevor Jones wrote: | | Norm Dresner wrote: | | Done. The manual is there under the name AMT 4030 Drill Press. | | Norm | | We shoulda got that done right in the beginning. Sure would have saved | some back and forth. | | Nice size scan, by the way, clear enough to read and still fast to get | on cruddy dialup. | | I wonder if that really is a section of a morse taper that they used on | the spindle. Doesn't much matter, as it seems unlikely that there are | any chucks available to fit it as is. | | As I said before, the amount of runout you say is present is an awful | lot less than I would expect to find on a small drill press, and I doubt | I would have been doing anything about it without some compelling | reason, like a munged up chuck. | | Got a lathe and a toolpost grinder? Know anyone that has a tool and | cutter grinder or cylindrical grinder? | | To the makers credit, they built a nut in to remove the chuck with. Too | bad they could not see fit to use a standard size chuck mount. | | Cheers | Trevor Jones | | LOL! Norm still trolling? I told him a couple of weeks ago | that he has a drill with a Din standard chuck mount, which | incidentally uses a shortened version of the Morse Taper. | | Tom The measurements are nothing like any Morse Taper on the books. Or don't you care about measurements? That you can find, perhaps? If you actually listened and then addressed yourself to looking up DIN standards for drill chuck mounts you might begin understand what you have. That they use the Morse Taper angularity doesn't make them part of the Morse Taper Standard. |
#18
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On Tue, 14 Mar 2006 12:37:57 +1300, Tom wrote:
Norm Dresner wrote: "Tom" wrote in message ... | Trevor Jones wrote: | | Norm Dresner wrote: | | Done. The manual is there under the name AMT 4030 Drill Press. | | Norm | | We shoulda got that done right in the beginning. Sure would have saved | some back and forth. | | Nice size scan, by the way, clear enough to read and still fast to get | on cruddy dialup. | | I wonder if that really is a section of a morse taper that they used on | the spindle. Doesn't much matter, as it seems unlikely that there are | any chucks available to fit it as is. | | As I said before, the amount of runout you say is present is an awful | lot less than I would expect to find on a small drill press, and I doubt | I would have been doing anything about it without some compelling | reason, like a munged up chuck. | | Got a lathe and a toolpost grinder? Know anyone that has a tool and | cutter grinder or cylindrical grinder? | | To the makers credit, they built a nut in to remove the chuck with. Too | bad they could not see fit to use a standard size chuck mount. | | Cheers | Trevor Jones | | LOL! Norm still trolling? I told him a couple of weeks ago | that he has a drill with a Din standard chuck mount, which | incidentally uses a shortened version of the Morse Taper. | | Tom The measurements are nothing like any Morse Taper on the books. Or don't you care about measurements? That you can find, perhaps? If you actually listened and then addressed yourself to looking up DIN standards for drill chuck mounts you might begin understand what you have. That they use the Morse Taper angularity doesn't make them part of the Morse Taper Standard. DIN? Ive never seen them. Euro stuff I take it? Gunner "A prudent man foresees the difficulties ahead and prepares for them; the simpleton goes blindly on and suffers the consequences." - Proverbs 22:3 |
#19
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On Fri, 10 Mar 2006 17:47:35 GMT, "Norm Dresner"
wrote: I finally removed the chuck from the spindle on my circa 1973 AMT 1/2" bench drill press -- the one that has been the subject of several threads including one that concluded that I was absolutely crazy for believing a nameplate that said it has a JT#2-1/2 spindle. Well, here are the measurements -- along with specifications I've gotten from the web JT# Large Dia Small Dia Length #2 .5590" .4876" .8750" #2short .5488" .4876" .7500" #2-1/2 .677" .625" 1.055" --- my AMT #3 .8100" .7461" 1.2188 It's also not anything close to any Morse taper either, nor a B+S. I guess it really is a JT#2-1/2 and nothing else. Which means that there's no way that I can replace the chuck with anything better today. Also, in removing the chuck, I discovered that the set screw that holds the pulley to the shaft was missing so all speeds under load were slower than I thought they were. I doubt that this had any effect on the runout, but I will measure it after replacing the chuck just to make sure that I haven't made it worse. Hi Norm, I've been following this discussion for the while and I finally had to go take a look in the dungeon. I see some more ideas/info has popped up since I wrote this too... I have two presses wearing AMT badges and they are probably the same as yours. Here is an image for comparison: http://www.iserv.net/~lfisk/amt-pair.jpg These were both made in Taiwan. See the following image of one of the name plates and note "Made in" at the bottom of the plate. The company American Machine and Tool Inc is in PA, but these weren't made there. http://www.iserv.net/~lfisk/amt-nameplate.jpg One instruction sheet (that came with them) does indeed mention using a Morse taper, the other machines sheet says Jacobs taper. The two chucks are of different manufacture and are inexpensive no names. Neither one is marked as to the taper they use. These were inexpensive presses and weren't even sold with motors on them. For anyone curious, here is a parts diagram showing the chuck, quill, spindle, pulleys... It appears that you are stuck with this taper, it is part of the spindle. http://www.iserv.net/~lfisk/amt-diagram.gif From the measurements you made and my trying a JT2 and JT33 on one of my presses (both too small, only other chucks I had on hand), I would say that this is a JT6 taper. See this file from Jacobs, which also has the "din" measurements mention in another post: http://www.jacobschuck.com/pdf/Techn...nformation.pdf They show the size progression as JT2 to JT33 to JT6 to JT3. The JT6 is listed as: Large Dia Small Dia Length .678 .6241 1.000 My presses are really sloppy. If you lower the quill an inch or so, you can grab the chuck and move it back-and-forth maybe a 1/16 inch. Have you tried that on yours? There is a set screw and locknut on the side of the casting, but even adjusting that you can't get rid of the play. You get what you pay for and these weren't much (shrug). It looks like if you could find another JT6 taper chuck you would be in business. I wouldn't bother on mine, not with the slop I've got in the quills... -- Leon Fisk Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b Remove no.spam for email |
#20
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Okay, so I'm late and catching up, but Gunner
wrote on Tue, 14 Mar 2006 03:11:54 GMT in rec.crafts.metalworking : The measurements are nothing like any Morse Taper on the books. Or don't you care about measurements? That you can find, perhaps? If you actually listened and then addressed yourself to looking up DIN standards for drill chuck mounts you might begin understand what you have. That they use the Morse Taper angularity doesn't make them part of the Morse Taper Standard. DIN? Ive never seen them. Euro stuff I take it? German. ANSI fur Deutschlander. -- pyotr filipivich. as an explaination for the decline in the US's tech edge, James Niccol wrote "It used to be that the USA was pretty good at producing stuff teenaged boys could lose a finger or two playing with." |
#21
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According to Norm Dresner :
"Trevor Jones" wrote in message ... | FWIW I am going to call the rotating part of the drill press the | spindle. The adaptor between the spindle and the chuck is the arbor, | just so you are clear on what I am saying. | I have the exploded parts diagram in the instruction manual. There is exactly one piece which runs down from the pulley to house the chuck. It is a single piece of metal that the manufacturer calls the "spindle". There is no separate arbor. If you doubt me, I'd be glad to scan the diagram and e-mail it to you. I don't think that anyone doubted you. We were simply hoping that the drill press spindle was made in such a way as to allow a replaceable arbor, so it would be easy to change to other Jacobs taper sizes. (And some of your earlier terminology suggested that it was so equipped.) Since there is no such feature, you are stuck with your existing chuck (which, IIRC, was not that bad for a typical drill press chuck) -- especially the ones from China and Taiwan. It *might* be that the same manufacturer made a version of the drill press with a spindle with a Morse taper socket -- and if so, changing one of those into the drill press might increase your options. Good Luck, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
#22
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According to Norm Dresner :
"Norm Dresner" wrote in message [ ... ] | I'm scanning it right now and I'll drop it in as a 3-page .PDF file for the | whole manual. [ ... ] Done. The manual is there under the name AMT 4030 Drill Press. O.K. I see where some of the confusion came from. The manual calls the Jacobs taper on the end of the spindle a Morse taper -- which is totally incorrect. Also -- it is a smaller drill press than I was considering, so a Morse taper in the spindle is quite unlikely. There just is not room for one of reasonable size. My floor-standing one only has a MT-2, and I would prefer a MT-3 in that one. Yours *might* accommodate a MT-1, but that would be too small to be worth the trouble. Good Luck, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
#23
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"DoN. Nichols" wrote:
According to Norm Dresner : "Norm Dresner" wrote in message [ ... ] | I'm scanning it right now and I'll drop it in as a 3-page .PDF file for the | whole manual. [ ... ] Done. The manual is there under the name AMT 4030 Drill Press. O.K. I see where some of the confusion came from. The manual calls the Jacobs taper on the end of the spindle a Morse taper -- which is totally incorrect. ............... Good Luck, DoN. Actually it could be correct, Don. According to Jacobs: "DIN Taper Interchangeability DIN tapered sections are identical to the following Morse tapers: MT No 1 for tapers B10 and B12 MT No 2 for tapers B16 and B18 MT No 3 for tapers B22 and B24 The length of these tapers is, of course, distinctly less than the overall length of the corresponding Morse taper. Each taper may be regarded as corresponding approximately to that part of the Morse taper nearest the small end(for example: B10), or to the part nearest the large end (for example: B12)" Tom |
#24
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According to Tom :
"DoN. Nichols" wrote: [ ... ] O.K. I see where some of the confusion came from. The manual calls the Jacobs taper on the end of the spindle a Morse taper -- which is totally incorrect. [ ... ] Actually it could be correct, Don. According to Jacobs: "DIN Taper Interchangeability DIN tapered sections are identical to the following Morse tapers: MT No 1 for tapers B10 and B12 MT No 2 for tapers B16 and B18 MT No 3 for tapers B22 and B24 The length of these tapers is, of course, distinctly less than the overall length of the corresponding Morse taper. Each taper may be regarded as corresponding approximately to that part of the Morse taper nearest the small end(for example: B10), or to the part nearest the large end (for example: B12)" Intersting information. Of course, it still should not be *called* a Morse taper, as that leads to the expectation of a socket in the spindle, and a certain length, neither of which is met. I wonder whether the choice of basing the DIN tapers on the Morse tapers is because there were plenty of precise gauges already around for checking the taper? And I'm still wondering where that 2-1/2 Jacobs taper came from on the machine's label -- and a taper which appears to be closer to that than anything else, even though there is no mention of a 2-1/2 Jacobs taper in _Machinery's Handbook_ -- at least not in the 25th edition. Just a "No. 2 short taper", which is not truly a half of a #2 taper. :-) Enjoy, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
#25
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Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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"Leon Fisk" wrote in message
... | Hi Norm, | | I've been following this discussion for the while and I | finally had to go take a look in the dungeon. I see some | more ideas/info has popped up since I wrote this too... | | I have two presses wearing AMT badges and they are probably | the same as yours. Here is an image for comparison: | | http://www.iserv.net/~lfisk/amt-pair.jpg | | These were both made in Taiwan. See the following image of | one of the name plates and note "Made in" at the bottom of | the plate. The company American Machine and Tool Inc is in | PA, but these weren't made there. | | http://www.iserv.net/~lfisk/amt-nameplate.jpg | Yes, Leon, those are the exact same "models" that I have. I've posted my scan of the "manual" in the dropbox at http://www.metalworking.com and the measurements I made in the accompanying text file. Yes, it certainly appears to be a JT6. Knowing that, I searched Enco http://www.use-enco.com for JT6 chucks and came up with 4 ranging from $18 to $84 at http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INLMK32?PARTPG=INSRAR2 so there may be new chucks available after all. Thanks very much for the info Norm |
#26
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Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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On Wed, 15 Mar 2006 14:10:01 GMT, "Norm Dresner"
wrote: "Leon Fisk" wrote in message .. . | Hi Norm, | | I've been following this discussion for the while and I | finally had to go take a look in the dungeon. I see some | more ideas/info has popped up since I wrote this too... | | I have two presses wearing AMT badges and they are probably | the same as yours. Here is an image for comparison: | | http://www.iserv.net/~lfisk/amt-pair.jpg | | These were both made in Taiwan. See the following image of | one of the name plates and note "Made in" at the bottom of | the plate. The company American Machine and Tool Inc is in | PA, but these weren't made there. | | http://www.iserv.net/~lfisk/amt-nameplate.jpg | Yes, Leon, those are the exact same "models" that I have. I've posted my scan of the "manual" in the dropbox at http://www.metalworking.com and the measurements I made in the accompanying text file. Yes, it certainly appears to be a JT6. Knowing that, I searched Enco http://www.use-enco.com for JT6 chucks and came up with 4 ranging from $18 to $84 at http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INLMK32?PARTPG=INSRAR2 so there may be new chucks available after all. Thanks very much for the info Hi Norm, Is you're press badged as made in Taiwan too (now that you know where to look)? I don't think mine are quite as old as yours, probably bought in the mid to late 70's. They are subtly different too. The slightly newer one doesn't have the nut for removing the chuck, nor any threads for one. The manual that came with that press still pictures it in the parts diagram/list though. Instructions for removing the chuck still tell you to turn the non-existent nut too. This is also the manual that calls it a Jacobs taper. Just eyeballing them though it appears to be the same taper. I only popped off the chuck on the press that has a threaded nut ![]() You might want to check how much play there is when you run the quill down and inch or two. As I mentioned, mine are really loose. I don't know what the other readers opinions are, but for drilling tiny holes I don't think this would be a good thing. -- Leon Fisk Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b Remove no.spam for email |
#27
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Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Not sure if anyone else posted on this (I'm 2500 posts behind in my reading)
but the measurements of the J2-1/2 sure do look the same as the J6 which you don't show. If they are the same, you can get a J6 chuck... Regards, Joe Agro, Jr. (800) 871-5022 (908) 542-0244 Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com V8013-R "Norm Dresner" wrote in message ... I finally removed the chuck from the spindle on my circa 1973 AMT 1/2" bench drill press -- the one that has been the subject of several threads including one that concluded that I was absolutely crazy for believing a nameplate that said it has a JT#2-1/2 spindle. Well, here are the measurements -- along with specifications I've gotten from the web JT# Large Dia Small Dia Length #2 .5590" .4876" .8750" #2short .5488" .4876" .7500" #2-1/2 .677" .625" 1.055" --- my AMT #3 .8100" .7461" 1.2188 It's also not anything close to any Morse taper either, nor a B+S. I guess it really is a JT#2-1/2 and nothing else. Which means that there's no way that I can replace the chuck with anything better today. Also, in removing the chuck, I discovered that the set screw that holds the pulley to the shaft was missing so all speeds under load were slower than I thought they were. I doubt that this had any effect on the runout, but I will measure it after replacing the chuck just to make sure that I haven't made it worse. Norm |
#28
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Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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replying to Norm Dresner, kevin wrote:
We're you able to find a replacement for the 2 1/2 in Chuck , too am looking for one -- for full context, visit http://www.polytechforum.com/metalwo...at-480470-.htm |
#29
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Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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replying to kevin, chris wrote:
I replaced my missing chuck that has the the same spindle listed as a JT# 2-1/2 with an Amazon chuck ----- https://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-7110...c+jt%236+chuck I hope this helps -- for full context, visit http://www.polytechforum.com/metalwo...at-480470-.htm |
#30
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Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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replying to chris, Elden wrote:
Chris, I realize that you posted your response more than 2 years ago, but I would like to ask you a question. Did the chuck you used grip the spindle well or did it ever slip during heavy use? The drill press I have calls for the JT#2 1/2 as well. It has worn to the point that one has difficulty getting it tight enough with the chuck key to prevent slippage on the drill bit. I used an online calculator for finding taper angles (http://www.magafor.com/841/uk.htm) to compare the two Jacob Tapers. Using the specifications for the JT #2 1/2 and for the JT #6 that I found, they were plugged into the calculator. The values obtained we JT #2 1/2 2.82° cone angle or 4.929% taper; JT#6 2.97° cone angle or 5.191% taper. The differences were 0.15° for the cone angle and 0.262% taper. I realize that the differences are small, but they are the reason for my initial question. I would like to know from someone who has actually put it to a prolonged test whether it is a workable solution. Thank you for your time, Elden -- for full context, visit https://www.polytechforum.com/metalw...at-480470-.htm |
#31
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Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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replying to Elden, Chitty wrote:
Revisiting this thread- did anyone verify using a jt6 chuck on the one piece jt 2 1/2 spindle? Im fighting this same question.... -- for full context, visit https://www.polytechforum.com/metalw...at-480470-.htm |
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