Ignoramus26153 wrote:
I have a 7.5 HP electric motor, with what looks like a 1 3/8" shaft
(213T frame). I will use it as an extra idler on my phase converter,
to be spun up when the main idler starts.

I would like to cut the visible part of the shaft off completely.
Cutting the shaft off would allow me to put the motor into any corner
of my garage without any enclosure, without worrying about things
wrapping around the shaft etc.

The question is how to cut off the shaft. A couple of possibilities
come to mind, one is to spin up the motor and use a hacksaw, another
is to use a angle grinder. The first seems more fun but also more
dangerous (hacksaw getting caught up in a powerful motor), the second
is less fun and may not get a cutoff as clean, leading to vibration.

Go with the grinder. It will be quicker and safer. Make the cut with the
motor off. Then spin it up and use the grinder to dress it to your
satisfaction. Should be able to get an almost lathe-cut finish.

Thanks. Will do like you say tonight, hopefully.

plz post results

One of our godfathers of phase converters, Fitch, now accessible only through
google archive searches alas, cut off the excess shaft on his idler motor. I
always got the impression he removed the armature from the motor, mounted one
end in the lathe chuck, supported the other in the steady rest, and did a cutoff
operation. That's certainly how I'd try it. Three phase motors are much easier
than single phase motors to disassemble since there's no fiddly centrifugal switch.

Grant

Ignoramus26153 wrote:
I have a 7.5 HP electric motor, with what looks like a 1 3/8" shaft
(213T frame). I will use it as an extra idler on my phase converter,
to be spun up when the main idler starts.

I would like to cut the visible part of the shaft off completely.
Cutting the shaft off would allow me to put the motor into any corner
of my garage without any enclosure, without worrying about things
wrapping around the shaft etc.

The question is how to cut off the shaft. A couple of possibilities
come to mind, one is to spin up the motor and use a hacksaw, another
is to use a angle grinder. The first seems more fun but also more
dangerous (hacksaw getting caught up in a powerful motor), the second
is less fun and may not get a cutoff as clean, leading to vibration.

I wouldn't try the first one. The blade will probably jam when the teeth
catch on the keyway, or it may jam because the chips aren't being
released. Either way it is quite possible that the blade will break and
become embedded in your arm, leg etc. :-D

To be honest, I wouldn't cut the shaft off because it makes the motor
useless for anything else. I'd probably make a cover from a disc of
steel plate and a length of pipe welded together and attach it to the
threaded rods which hold the motor together. Or attach the guard to
whatever you mount the motor on.

If you do feel the need to cut off the shaft, the angle grinder is a
better bet. Depending on the design of your grinder, you may be able to
guide the grinder by resting the guard against a heavy wooden board. In
this case you would need to find a way to securely clamp the board to
the motor at 90 degrees to the shaft. You'll also need to prevent the
shaft from rotating. I know it seems obvious, but remember to use a
cutting disc for cutting and a grinding disc for grinding.

If I had to do this I might use a hand hacksaw. I'd mark the position of
the cut using a scriber, then remove the rotor and clamp it securely.
Then I'd wrap a strip of paper around the shaft as a guide to help me
keep the cut square. I'd then cut slightly to the side of my mark so as
to give me room to clean up the end using a file.

If you have access to a huge lathe you might be able to remove the
rotor, hold it in the chuck and shorten the shaft using a parting tool.
This would probably give you the neatest cut.

Best wishes,

Chris

"Ignoramus26153" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 28 Sep 2005 09:45:58 -0500, Rex B wrote:

Go with the grinder. It will be quicker and safer. Make the cut with the
motor off. Then spin it up and use the grinder to dress it to your
satisfaction. Should be able to get an almost lathe-cut finish.

Thanks. Will do like you say tonight, hopefully.

Don't forget to protect the bearings/bushings and seal off any openings into
the motor housing. It will be difficult to stop abrasive dust getting past
the shaft, particularly since you are trying to cut the shaft off flush. Try
packing a piece of string soaked in heavy grease into the gap.

- Michael

On Wed, 28 Sep 2005 14:35:32 GMT, Ignoramus26153
wrote:

I have a 7.5 HP electric motor, with what looks like a 1 3/8" shaft
(213T frame). I will use it as an extra idler on my phase converter,
to be spun up when the main idler starts.

I would like to cut the visible part of the shaft off completely.
Cutting the shaft off would allow me to put the motor into any corner
of my garage without any enclosure, without worrying about things
wrapping around the shaft etc.

The question is how to cut off the shaft. A couple of possibilities
come to mind, one is to spin up the motor and use a hacksaw, another
is to use a angle grinder. The first seems more fun but also more
dangerous (hacksaw getting caught up in a powerful motor), the second
is less fun and may not get a cutoff as clean, leading to vibration.

i
Hey Iggy,

No matter what RPM the motor runs at under its own power, it will be
WAY too fast for the proper speed on the hand hacksaw blade. Why not
just hacksaw it off by hand, say over a couple of days with a couple
of minutes sawing whenever you feel like it, and then,as another reply
suggested, with the motor running, dress the end with the angle
grinder.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.

Sure seems to be easier to make a guard out of a piece of pipe and a
washer or even expanded metal.

Ignoramus26153 wrote:

I have a 7.5 HP electric motor, with what looks like a 1 3/8" shaft
(213T frame). I will use it as an extra idler on my phase converter,
to be spun up when the main idler starts.

I would like to cut the visible part of the shaft off completely.
Cutting the shaft off would allow me to put the motor into any corner
of my garage without any enclosure, without worrying about things
wrapping around the shaft etc.

The question is how to cut off the shaft. A couple of possibilities
come to mind, one is to spin up the motor and use a hacksaw, another
is to use a angle grinder. The first seems more fun but also more
dangerous (hacksaw getting caught up in a powerful motor), the second
is less fun and may not get a cutoff as clean, leading to vibration.

i

On Wed, 28 Sep 2005 14:35:32 GMT, Ignoramus26153
wrote:

I have a 7.5 HP electric motor, with what looks like a 1 3/8" shaft
(213T frame). I will use it as an extra idler on my phase converter,
to be spun up when the main idler starts.

I would like to cut the visible part of the shaft off completely.
Cutting the shaft off would allow me to put the motor into any corner
of my garage without any enclosure, without worrying about things
wrapping around the shaft etc.

The question is how to cut off the shaft. A couple of possibilities
come to mind, one is to spin up the motor and use a hacksaw, another
is to use a angle grinder. The first seems more fun but also more
dangerous (hacksaw getting caught up in a powerful motor), the second
is less fun and may not get a cutoff as clean, leading to vibration.

i

See
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=47840

If you're going to be making stuff out of steel, you will find this
extremely useful. I have a Milwaukee, but Jeff W. sez this HF saw
works great for him == for about 1/5 the price of a Milwaukee.

This would cut your 1-3/8" shaft in about 30 seconds. It'll go thru
2 x 2 x 1/4 angle a lot faster than that, leaving a clean cut with no
burrs.

On Wed, 28 Sep 2005 07:58:37 -0700, Grant Erwin
wrote:


One of our godfathers of phase converters, Fitch, now accessible only through
google archive searches alas, cut off the excess shaft on his idler motor.

Update: Fitch moved into his new house last week. (YAY) Next on his
docket is to build a shop.

On Wed, 28 Sep 2005 11:45:00 -0500, Don Foreman
wrote:

SNIP

Update: Fitch moved into his new house last week. (YAY) Next on his
docket is to build a shop.


Hey Don,

Please give our best and congratulations to Fitch and his good wife
(Ardra??? or something like that..I've "lost" my old who's-who list to
find her name). Heck of a job for them both, I'm sure.

Love to see some pix of what it looks like, after the amazing
description of a few years back. and when he's got time, a story or
two about the fun he had doing it, as he was always good with the
telling!

Take care.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.

On Wed, 28 Sep 2005 16:58:16 GMT, Ignoramus26153
wrote:

I think that I will buy it... Thanks... Incidentally, I was looking at
it earlier this morning and was contemplating buying it, but was not
quite sure.

i
If Milwaukee bimetal blades will fit it (probably will), use them.
Good blades make a big difference. HF blades are probably crap. For
1/4" steel, use a 14 TPI blade. A coarser blade will go faster thru
thicker stock, but you'll knock the teeth off of it in thin stock.

Brian Lawson wrote:
On Wed, 28 Sep 2005 11:45:00 -0500, Don Foreman
wrote:

SNIP


Update: Fitch moved into his new house last week. (YAY) Next on his
docket is to build a shop.



Hey Don,

Please give our best and congratulations to Fitch and his good wife
(Ardra??? or something like that..I've "lost" my old who's-who list to
find her name). Heck of a job for them both, I'm sure.

Love to see some pix of what it looks like, after the amazing
description of a few years back. and when he's got time, a story or
two about the fun he had doing it, as he was always good with the
telling!

Take care.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.

Nedra as I remember. But I wouldn't bet money on it. :-)
...lew...

Second that, Brian! All the best to Fitch and family. Let's hope he comes
back to RCM soon and tells us all about the house and shop jobs.

Bob Swinney
"Brian Lawson" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 28 Sep 2005 11:45:00 -0500, Don Foreman
wrote:

SNIP

Update: Fitch moved into his new house last week. (YAY) Next on his
docket is to build a shop.


Hey Don,

Please give our best and congratulations to Fitch and his good wife
(Ardra??? or something like that..I've "lost" my old who's-who list to
find her name). Heck of a job for them both, I'm sure.

Love to see some pix of what it looks like, after the amazing
description of a few years back. and when he's got time, a story or
two about the fun he had doing it, as he was always good with the
telling!

Take care.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.

In article . net, Lew Hartswick
says...

Nedra as I remember. But I wouldn't bet money on it. :-)

No but I would.

All the best to Fitch.

Jim


--
==================================================
please reply to:
JRR(zero) at pkmfgvm4 (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com
==================================================

Nedra as I remember. But I wouldn't bet money on it. :-)
...lew..
..
Riiiiiiggghhhhtt!! Old brain just wants to rhyme stuff I think.
Thanks Lew.

Brian.

On Wed, 28 Sep 2005 14:29:31 -0400, Brian Lawson
wrote:


Hey Don,

Please give our best and congratulations to Fitch and his good wife
(Ardra??? or something like that..I've "lost" my old who's-who list to
find her name). Heck of a job for them both, I'm sure.

Love to see some pix of what it looks like, after the amazing
description of a few years back. and when he's got time, a story or
two about the fun he had doing it, as he was always good with the
telling!

Take care.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.

Her name is Nedra. I've forward y'alls good wishes. He may check in,
who knows. I told Fitch the NG has kinda gone to hell with OT crap
causing contributors like Jerry Martes and John Stevenson to check
out. I also noted that Gunner has become a net contributor, must be
mellowing some. Gettin' some gray in yer whiskers, Gunner? G
Humility (not craven submission) is not learned young, is learned by
adversity. Wisdom is not possible without humility, not to say
that humble men should not have arms as they might deem necessary.

No lack of soapbox OT crap (Cliff) to fill the void.

Don Foreman wrote:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=47840

If you're going to be making stuff out of steel, you will find this
extremely useful. I have a Milwaukee, but Jeff W. sez this HF saw
works great for him == for about 1/5 the price of a Milwaukee.

This would cut your 1-3/8" shaft in about 30 seconds. It'll go thru
2 x 2 x 1/4 angle a lot faster than that, leaving a clean cut with no
burrs.

I just picked up a chunk of steel this morning to make Aloris-style
toolholders (Martin Eastburn posted a picture to the Dropbox a few years
back). I've been thinking about getting this saw and now I'll do it this
weekend (sidewalk sale at the store in my neighborhood). I looked at
the specs for it a while back and it does take the same blade length as
the Milwaukee saw.

Maybe the first project will be to build a cutting stand for the saw; I
have an extra milling vise that ought to work nicely. MicroMark's saw
came with the stand but is $80 more than HF.

Thanks,
Pete

Pete Bergstrom wrote:
Don Foreman wrote:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=47840

If you're going to be making stuff out of steel, you will find this
extremely useful. I have a Milwaukee, but Jeff W. sez this HF saw
works great for him == for about 1/5 the price of a Milwaukee.
This would cut your 1-3/8" shaft in about 30 seconds. It'll go thru
2 x 2 x 1/4 angle a lot faster than that, leaving a clean cut with no
burrs.


I just picked up a chunk of steel this morning to make Aloris-style
toolholders (Martin Eastburn posted a picture to the Dropbox a few years
back). I've been thinking about getting this saw and now I'll do it this
weekend (sidewalk sale at the store in my neighborhood). I looked at
the specs for it a while back and it does take the same blade length as
the Milwaukee saw.

Maybe the first project will be to build a cutting stand for the saw; I
have an extra milling vise that ought to work nicely. MicroMark's saw
came with the stand but is $80 more than HF.

You can buy the standard 4x6 metalcutting bandsaw on wheels from Homier
now for $99.95. I'd come closer to buying one of these first, as you
won't have to build a stand and you can make nice square cuts for your
toolholders almost right outa the box.
Their portable bandsaw is $49.95.
Unless they are having a tent sale near you soon, freight may be an issue.

Rex B wrote:
Pete Bergstrom wrote:
I just picked up a chunk of steel this morning to make Aloris-style
toolholders (Martin Eastburn posted a picture to the Dropbox a few
years back). I've been thinking about getting this saw and now I'll do
it this weekend (sidewalk sale at the store in my neighborhood). I
looked at the specs for it a while back and it does take the same
blade length as the Milwaukee saw.

Maybe the first project will be to build a cutting stand for the saw;
I have an extra milling vise that ought to work nicely. MicroMark's
saw came with the stand but is $80 more than HF.


You can buy the standard 4x6 metalcutting bandsaw on wheels from Homier
now for $99.95. I'd come closer to buying one of these first, as you
won't have to build a stand and you can make nice square cuts for your
toolholders almost right outa the box.
Their portable bandsaw is $49.95.
Unless they are having a tent sale near you soon, freight may be an issue.

Space is the greatest issue for me; the portable plus shop-built stand
will break down and fit in a drawer under my lathe. I also have a bunch
of aluminum sheetstock that'll work nicely and the vise. If I didn't
have the space constraint, buying a 4x6 bandsaw would indeed be a
no-brainer. I'd buy one a year to avoid hacksaws or abrasive saws.

Thanks,
Pete

Rex B wrote:
Pete Bergstrom wrote:
I just picked up a chunk of steel this morning to make Aloris-style
toolholders (Martin Eastburn posted a picture to the Dropbox a few
years back). I've been thinking about getting this saw and now I'll do
it this weekend (sidewalk sale at the store in my neighborhood). I
looked at the specs for it a while back and it does take the same
blade length as the Milwaukee saw.

Maybe the first project will be to build a cutting stand for the saw;
I have an extra milling vise that ought to work nicely. MicroMark's
saw came with the stand but is $80 more than HF.


You can buy the standard 4x6 metalcutting bandsaw on wheels from Homier
now for $99.95. I'd come closer to buying one of these first, as you
won't have to build a stand and you can make nice square cuts for your
toolholders almost right outa the box.
Their portable bandsaw is $49.95.
Unless they are having a tent sale near you soon, freight may be an issue.

Space is the greatest issue for me; the portable plus shop-built stand
will break down and fit in a drawer under my lathe. I also have a bunch
of aluminum sheetstock that'll work nicely and the vise. If I didn't
have the space constraint, buying a 4x6 bandsaw would indeed be a
no-brainer. I'd buy one a year to avoid hacksaws or abrasive saws.

Thanks,
Pete

The way my luck runs, I would no sooner cut that shaft off and find a
better motor for a RPC and then have a need for that motor.......Thats
what happened when I originally made my first 3 h p RPC. I then made a
5 h p model and had a need for a 3 h p, but I had cut the shaft
off.......I would simply attach a guard or duct tape a tin can over
the end and leave it on the motor.

==============================================
Put some color in your cheeks...garden naked!
"The original frugal ponder"
~~~~ }((((o ~~~~~~ }{{{{o ~~~~~~~ }(((((o

~Roy wrote:
The way my luck runs, I would no sooner cut that shaft off and find a
better motor for a RPC and then have a need for that motor.......Thats
what happened when I originally made my first 3 h p RPC. I then made a
5 h p model and had a need for a 3 h p, but I had cut the shaft
off.......I would simply attach a guard or duct tape a tin can over
the end and leave it on the motor.

Just what I was thinking, Roy. I have a few motors which have each been
used for several projects over the course of time. 99.9999999% of
projects require the motor to have a shaft :-). And when I haven't used
a motor for a while I'll end up giving it away or selling it on eBay. I
have too many right now...

As an aside, I came across a company selling phase convertors in the UK
recently. They use a powder coated metal enclosure to house the
capacitors, contactors etc., and mount the motor on top. Their motors
didn't have a guard over the shaft and had a key left in the keyway. I'm
surprised that this meets safety regulations.

Chris

Pete Bergstrom wrote:
Don Foreman wrote:


I just picked up a chunk of steel this morning to make Aloris-style
toolholders (Martin Eastburn posted a picture to the Dropbox a few years
back). I've been thinking about getting this saw and now I'll do it this
weekend (sidewalk sale at the store in my neighborhood). I looked at
the specs for it a while back and it does take the same blade length as
the Milwaukee saw.

I made a bunch of tool holders a while back. I cut the dovetail first and then
used a bandsaw to slice off pieces as needed to make the individual toolholders.
Worked well for me. Easy project and the Precision Tool Black makes them look
factory made.

Ron Thompson
On the Beautiful Florida Space Coast, right beside the Kennedy Space Center, USA

http://www.plansandprojects.com
My hobby pages are he
http://www.plansandprojects.com/My%20Machines/

Severe stupidity is self correcting, but mild stupidity is rampant in the land.
-Ron Thompson