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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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Cutting a shaft off a motor
Ignoramus26153 wrote:
I have a 7.5 HP electric motor, with what looks like a 1 3/8" shaft (213T frame). I will use it as an extra idler on my phase converter, to be spun up when the main idler starts. I would like to cut the visible part of the shaft off completely. Cutting the shaft off would allow me to put the motor into any corner of my garage without any enclosure, without worrying about things wrapping around the shaft etc. The question is how to cut off the shaft. A couple of possibilities come to mind, one is to spin up the motor and use a hacksaw, another is to use a angle grinder. The first seems more fun but also more dangerous (hacksaw getting caught up in a powerful motor), the second is less fun and may not get a cutoff as clean, leading to vibration. Go with the grinder. It will be quicker and safer. Make the cut with the motor off. Then spin it up and use the grinder to dress it to your satisfaction. Should be able to get an almost lathe-cut finish. |
#2
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Ignoramus26153 wrote:
I have a 7.5 HP electric motor, with what looks like a 1 3/8" shaft (213T frame). I will use it as an extra idler on my phase converter, to be spun up when the main idler starts. I would like to cut the visible part of the shaft off completely. Cutting the shaft off would allow me to put the motor into any corner of my garage without any enclosure, without worrying about things wrapping around the shaft etc. The question is how to cut off the shaft. A couple of possibilities come to mind, one is to spin up the motor and use a hacksaw, another is to use a angle grinder. The first seems more fun but also more dangerous (hacksaw getting caught up in a powerful motor), the second is less fun and may not get a cutoff as clean, leading to vibration. I wouldn't try the first one. The blade will probably jam when the teeth catch on the keyway, or it may jam because the chips aren't being released. Either way it is quite possible that the blade will break and become embedded in your arm, leg etc. :-D To be honest, I wouldn't cut the shaft off because it makes the motor useless for anything else. I'd probably make a cover from a disc of steel plate and a length of pipe welded together and attach it to the threaded rods which hold the motor together. Or attach the guard to whatever you mount the motor on. If you do feel the need to cut off the shaft, the angle grinder is a better bet. Depending on the design of your grinder, you may be able to guide the grinder by resting the guard against a heavy wooden board. In this case you would need to find a way to securely clamp the board to the motor at 90 degrees to the shaft. You'll also need to prevent the shaft from rotating. I know it seems obvious, but remember to use a cutting disc for cutting and a grinding disc for grinding. If I had to do this I might use a hand hacksaw. I'd mark the position of the cut using a scriber, then remove the rotor and clamp it securely. Then I'd wrap a strip of paper around the shaft as a guide to help me keep the cut square. I'd then cut slightly to the side of my mark so as to give me room to clean up the end using a file. If you have access to a huge lathe you might be able to remove the rotor, hold it in the chuck and shorten the shaft using a parting tool. This would probably give you the neatest cut. Best wishes, Chris |
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On Wed, 28 Sep 2005 14:35:32 GMT, Ignoramus26153
wrote: I have a 7.5 HP electric motor, with what looks like a 1 3/8" shaft (213T frame). I will use it as an extra idler on my phase converter, to be spun up when the main idler starts. I would like to cut the visible part of the shaft off completely. Cutting the shaft off would allow me to put the motor into any corner of my garage without any enclosure, without worrying about things wrapping around the shaft etc. The question is how to cut off the shaft. A couple of possibilities come to mind, one is to spin up the motor and use a hacksaw, another is to use a angle grinder. The first seems more fun but also more dangerous (hacksaw getting caught up in a powerful motor), the second is less fun and may not get a cutoff as clean, leading to vibration. i Hey Iggy, No matter what RPM the motor runs at under its own power, it will be WAY too fast for the proper speed on the hand hacksaw blade. Why not just hacksaw it off by hand, say over a couple of days with a couple of minutes sawing whenever you feel like it, and then,as another reply suggested, with the motor running, dress the end with the angle grinder. Brian Lawson, Bothwell, Ontario. |
#4
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Sure seems to be easier to make a guard out of a piece of pipe and a
washer or even expanded metal. Ignoramus26153 wrote: I have a 7.5 HP electric motor, with what looks like a 1 3/8" shaft (213T frame). I will use it as an extra idler on my phase converter, to be spun up when the main idler starts. I would like to cut the visible part of the shaft off completely. Cutting the shaft off would allow me to put the motor into any corner of my garage without any enclosure, without worrying about things wrapping around the shaft etc. The question is how to cut off the shaft. A couple of possibilities come to mind, one is to spin up the motor and use a hacksaw, another is to use a angle grinder. The first seems more fun but also more dangerous (hacksaw getting caught up in a powerful motor), the second is less fun and may not get a cutoff as clean, leading to vibration. i |
#5
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On Wed, 28 Sep 2005 14:35:32 GMT, Ignoramus26153
wrote: I have a 7.5 HP electric motor, with what looks like a 1 3/8" shaft (213T frame). I will use it as an extra idler on my phase converter, to be spun up when the main idler starts. I would like to cut the visible part of the shaft off completely. Cutting the shaft off would allow me to put the motor into any corner of my garage without any enclosure, without worrying about things wrapping around the shaft etc. The question is how to cut off the shaft. A couple of possibilities come to mind, one is to spin up the motor and use a hacksaw, another is to use a angle grinder. The first seems more fun but also more dangerous (hacksaw getting caught up in a powerful motor), the second is less fun and may not get a cutoff as clean, leading to vibration. i See http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=47840 If you're going to be making stuff out of steel, you will find this extremely useful. I have a Milwaukee, but Jeff W. sez this HF saw works great for him == for about 1/5 the price of a Milwaukee. This would cut your 1-3/8" shaft in about 30 seconds. It'll go thru 2 x 2 x 1/4 angle a lot faster than that, leaving a clean cut with no burrs. |
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Don Foreman wrote:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=47840 If you're going to be making stuff out of steel, you will find this extremely useful. I have a Milwaukee, but Jeff W. sez this HF saw works great for him == for about 1/5 the price of a Milwaukee. This would cut your 1-3/8" shaft in about 30 seconds. It'll go thru 2 x 2 x 1/4 angle a lot faster than that, leaving a clean cut with no burrs. I just picked up a chunk of steel this morning to make Aloris-style toolholders (Martin Eastburn posted a picture to the Dropbox a few years back). I've been thinking about getting this saw and now I'll do it this weekend (sidewalk sale at the store in my neighborhood). I looked at the specs for it a while back and it does take the same blade length as the Milwaukee saw. Maybe the first project will be to build a cutting stand for the saw; I have an extra milling vise that ought to work nicely. MicroMark's saw came with the stand but is $80 more than HF. Thanks, Pete |
#7
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Pete Bergstrom wrote:
Don Foreman wrote: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=47840 If you're going to be making stuff out of steel, you will find this extremely useful. I have a Milwaukee, but Jeff W. sez this HF saw works great for him == for about 1/5 the price of a Milwaukee. This would cut your 1-3/8" shaft in about 30 seconds. It'll go thru 2 x 2 x 1/4 angle a lot faster than that, leaving a clean cut with no burrs. I just picked up a chunk of steel this morning to make Aloris-style toolholders (Martin Eastburn posted a picture to the Dropbox a few years back). I've been thinking about getting this saw and now I'll do it this weekend (sidewalk sale at the store in my neighborhood). I looked at the specs for it a while back and it does take the same blade length as the Milwaukee saw. Maybe the first project will be to build a cutting stand for the saw; I have an extra milling vise that ought to work nicely. MicroMark's saw came with the stand but is $80 more than HF. You can buy the standard 4x6 metalcutting bandsaw on wheels from Homier now for $99.95. I'd come closer to buying one of these first, as you won't have to build a stand and you can make nice square cuts for your toolholders almost right outa the box. Their portable bandsaw is $49.95. Unless they are having a tent sale near you soon, freight may be an issue. |
#8
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Rex B wrote:
Pete Bergstrom wrote: I just picked up a chunk of steel this morning to make Aloris-style toolholders (Martin Eastburn posted a picture to the Dropbox a few years back). I've been thinking about getting this saw and now I'll do it this weekend (sidewalk sale at the store in my neighborhood). I looked at the specs for it a while back and it does take the same blade length as the Milwaukee saw. Maybe the first project will be to build a cutting stand for the saw; I have an extra milling vise that ought to work nicely. MicroMark's saw came with the stand but is $80 more than HF. You can buy the standard 4x6 metalcutting bandsaw on wheels from Homier now for $99.95. I'd come closer to buying one of these first, as you won't have to build a stand and you can make nice square cuts for your toolholders almost right outa the box. Their portable bandsaw is $49.95. Unless they are having a tent sale near you soon, freight may be an issue. Space is the greatest issue for me; the portable plus shop-built stand will break down and fit in a drawer under my lathe. I also have a bunch of aluminum sheetstock that'll work nicely and the vise. If I didn't have the space constraint, buying a 4x6 bandsaw would indeed be a no-brainer. I'd buy one a year to avoid hacksaws or abrasive saws. Thanks, Pete |
#9
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Rex B wrote:
Pete Bergstrom wrote: I just picked up a chunk of steel this morning to make Aloris-style toolholders (Martin Eastburn posted a picture to the Dropbox a few years back). I've been thinking about getting this saw and now I'll do it this weekend (sidewalk sale at the store in my neighborhood). I looked at the specs for it a while back and it does take the same blade length as the Milwaukee saw. Maybe the first project will be to build a cutting stand for the saw; I have an extra milling vise that ought to work nicely. MicroMark's saw came with the stand but is $80 more than HF. You can buy the standard 4x6 metalcutting bandsaw on wheels from Homier now for $99.95. I'd come closer to buying one of these first, as you won't have to build a stand and you can make nice square cuts for your toolholders almost right outa the box. Their portable bandsaw is $49.95. Unless they are having a tent sale near you soon, freight may be an issue. Space is the greatest issue for me; the portable plus shop-built stand will break down and fit in a drawer under my lathe. I also have a bunch of aluminum sheetstock that'll work nicely and the vise. If I didn't have the space constraint, buying a 4x6 bandsaw would indeed be a no-brainer. I'd buy one a year to avoid hacksaws or abrasive saws. Thanks, Pete |
#10
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Pete Bergstrom wrote:
Don Foreman wrote: I just picked up a chunk of steel this morning to make Aloris-style toolholders (Martin Eastburn posted a picture to the Dropbox a few years back). I've been thinking about getting this saw and now I'll do it this weekend (sidewalk sale at the store in my neighborhood). I looked at the specs for it a while back and it does take the same blade length as the Milwaukee saw. I made a bunch of tool holders a while back. I cut the dovetail first and then used a bandsaw to slice off pieces as needed to make the individual toolholders. Worked well for me. Easy project and the Precision Tool Black makes them look factory made. Ron Thompson On the Beautiful Florida Space Coast, right beside the Kennedy Space Center, USA http://www.plansandprojects.com My hobby pages are he http://www.plansandprojects.com/My%20Machines/ Severe stupidity is self correcting, but mild stupidity is rampant in the land. -Ron Thompson |
#11
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The way my luck runs, I would no sooner cut that shaft off and find a
better motor for a RPC and then have a need for that motor.......Thats what happened when I originally made my first 3 h p RPC. I then made a 5 h p model and had a need for a 3 h p, but I had cut the shaft off.......I would simply attach a guard or duct tape a tin can over the end and leave it on the motor. ============================================== Put some color in your cheeks...garden naked! "The original frugal ponder" ~~~~ }((((o ~~~~~~ }{{{{o ~~~~~~~ }(((((o |
#12
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~Roy wrote:
The way my luck runs, I would no sooner cut that shaft off and find a better motor for a RPC and then have a need for that motor.......Thats what happened when I originally made my first 3 h p RPC. I then made a 5 h p model and had a need for a 3 h p, but I had cut the shaft off.......I would simply attach a guard or duct tape a tin can over the end and leave it on the motor. Just what I was thinking, Roy. I have a few motors which have each been used for several projects over the course of time. 99.9999999% of projects require the motor to have a shaft :-). And when I haven't used a motor for a while I'll end up giving it away or selling it on eBay. I have too many right now... As an aside, I came across a company selling phase convertors in the UK recently. They use a powder coated metal enclosure to house the capacitors, contactors etc., and mount the motor on top. Their motors didn't have a guard over the shaft and had a key left in the keyway. I'm surprised that this meets safety regulations. Chris |
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