I'm making up a weldment in which the design calls for a continuous 2" of
internal threading. About 3/4" of it will be a threaded hole, and the rest will
be part of a rod coupler nut. I don't want the threads to bind. What I'm
thinking is to drill the 3/4" deep hole as though I were going to tap it, then
make up a scrap screw with the end 3/4" turned down to be a slip fit into the
tap hole, then use the scrap screw as an alignment tool to hold the coupler nut
centrally, clamp it tightly, weld it up, then remove the part to the hand tapper
and chase the threads in the coupler nut and use those to guide the tap to cut
the threads below.

I would just drill and tap the 3/4" hole and run my scrap screw in and screw on
the coupler nut, clamp it and weld it, but I've seen enough pieces move "just a
little" when welding to be leery. I don't want these threads to bind.

The threads are 5/8-11 so if they do bind, it could be really difficult to fix.

Ideas?

GWE

I'm making up a weldment in which the design calls for a continuous 2" of
internal threading. About 3/4" of it will be a threaded hole, and the rest will
be part of a rod coupler nut. I don't want the threads to bind. What I'm
thinking is to drill the 3/4" deep hole as though I were going to tap it, then
make up a scrap screw with the end 3/4" turned down to be a slip fit into the
tap hole, then use the scrap screw as an alignment tool to hold the coupler nut
centrally, clamp it tightly, weld it up, then remove the part to the hand tapper
and chase the threads in the coupler nut and use those to guide the tap to cut
the threads below.

I would just drill and tap the 3/4" hole and run my scrap screw in and screw on
the coupler nut, clamp it and weld it, but I've seen enough pieces move "just a
little" when welding to be leery. I don't want these threads to bind.

The threads are 5/8-11 so if they do bind, it could be really difficult to fix.

Ideas?

GWE
Can't offer any better suggestion than what you have already come up
with, Grant. Sounds like a good plan for a good result.
Good luck - let us know how it worked.
Ken.

Turn the hex off of the coupling nut for 3/4" , bore the hole in the plate
to a good fit on the nut, insert the nut and weld? Do you need the full 2"
of thread? can you just clearance the plate and use the threads in the nut?
Your idea sounds workable but I think that I'd turn off just a bit more than
the 3/4" needed to align. Turn up high enough so that the weld distortion
doesn't bind up the threads on the alignment screw. Make sure that you have
room to get a tool on the alignment screw so that if it does bind you can
get it out . Might even consider threading the small end of the alignment
pin so that you can put a nut on it to pull the coupling nut up tight to the
plate.
lg
no neat sig line

lg
no neat sig line
"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
I'm making up a weldment in which the design calls for a continuous 2" of
internal threading. About 3/4" of it will be a threaded hole, and the rest
will be part of a rod coupler nut. I don't want the threads to bind. What
I'm thinking is to drill the 3/4" deep hole as though I were going to tap
it, then make up a scrap screw with the end 3/4" turned down to be a slip
fit into the tap hole, then use the scrap screw as an alignment tool to
hold the coupler nut centrally, clamp it tightly, weld it up, then remove
the part to the hand tapper and chase the threads in the coupler nut and
use those to guide the tap to cut the threads below.

I would just drill and tap the 3/4" hole and run my scrap screw in and
screw on the coupler nut, clamp it and weld it, but I've seen enough
pieces move "just a little" when welding to be leery. I don't want these
threads to bind.

The threads are 5/8-11 so if they do bind, it could be really difficult to
fix.

Ideas?

GWE

Grant Erwin wrote:

I'm making up a weldment in which the design calls for a continuous 2" of
internal threading. About 3/4" of it will be a threaded hole, and the rest will
be part of a rod coupler nut. I don't want the threads to bind. What I'm
thinking is to drill the 3/4" deep hole as though I were going to tap it, then
make up a scrap screw with the end 3/4" turned down to be a slip fit into the
tap hole, then use the scrap screw as an alignment tool to hold the coupler nut
centrally, clamp it tightly, weld it up, then remove the part to the hand tapper
and chase the threads in the coupler nut and use those to guide the tap to cut
the threads below.

I would just drill and tap the 3/4" hole and run my scrap screw in and screw on
the coupler nut, clamp it and weld it, but I've seen enough pieces move "just a
little" when welding to be leery. I don't want these threads to bind.

The threads are 5/8-11 so if they do bind, it could be really difficult to fix.

Ideas?

GWE

How about welding the coupler nut in place first and then drill the
pilot hole in the 3/4" stock using the coupler nut as a guide and then
finally run the tap through the coupler nut and through the 3/4" piece?
Might need a tap extension, but doing it in that order should insure
everything is in alignment.

Pete C.

Why not use a coupler nut two inches long and weld it into a hole in the
plate?
The weld will shrink the thread at one end of the nut but that can be chased
out with a tap. I am guessing at something like a one inch hole diameter?
Randy

"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
I'm making up a weldment in which the design calls for a continuous 2" of
internal threading. About 3/4" of it will be a threaded hole, and the rest
will
be part of a rod coupler nut. I don't want the threads to bind. What I'm
thinking is to drill the 3/4" deep hole as though I were going to tap it,
then
make up a scrap screw with the end 3/4" turned down to be a slip fit into
the
tap hole, then use the scrap screw as an alignment tool to hold the coupler
nut
centrally, clamp it tightly, weld it up, then remove the part to the hand
tapper
and chase the threads in the coupler nut and use those to guide the tap to
cut
the threads below.

I would just drill and tap the 3/4" hole and run my scrap screw in and screw
on
the coupler nut, clamp it and weld it, but I've seen enough pieces move
"just a
little" when welding to be leery. I don't want these threads to bind.

The threads are 5/8-11 so if they do bind, it could be really difficult to
fix.

Ideas?

GWE

On Wed, 24 Aug 2005 18:27:40 -0700, Grant Erwin
wrote:

I'm making up a weldment in which the design calls for a continuous 2" of
internal threading. About 3/4" of it will be a threaded hole, and the rest will
be part of a rod coupler nut. I don't want the threads to bind. What I'm
thinking is to drill the 3/4" deep hole as though I were going to tap it, then
make up a scrap screw with the end 3/4" turned down to be a slip fit into the
tap hole, then use the scrap screw as an alignment tool to hold the coupler nut
centrally, clamp it tightly, weld it up, then remove the part to the hand tapper
and chase the threads in the coupler nut and use those to guide the tap to cut
the threads below.

I would just drill and tap the 3/4" hole and run my scrap screw in and screw on
the coupler nut, clamp it and weld it, but I've seen enough pieces move "just a
little" when welding to be leery. I don't want these threads to bind.

The threads are 5/8-11 so if they do bind, it could be really difficult to fix.

Ideas?

GWE

Have a design review with the requestor.

3/4" of thread will contribute about zilch to the strength beyond the
1.25" thread length of the coupler nut with 11 pitch thread.

Make a clearance hole in the 3/4" material, let the ample thread of
the rod coupler nut bear the load, no worry about aligning threads.

In article , Don Foreman says...

3/4" of thread will contribute about zilch to the strength beyond the
1.25" thread length of the coupler nut with 11 pitch thread.

Don that makes too much sense.

Some folks just *have* to make prints with one inch diameter
holes in 3/4 inch stock. They cannot be dissuaded ever.

Best thing to do is hand them a handfull of chips, say "here's
your job." And no, I'm not giving the money back.

Jim


--
==================================================
please reply to:
JRR(zero) at pkmfgvm4 (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com
==================================================

Don Foreman wrote:
On Wed, 24 Aug 2005 18:27:40 -0700, Grant Erwin
wrote:


I'm making up a weldment in which the design calls for a continuous 2" of
internal threading. About 3/4" of it will be a threaded hole, and the rest will
be part of a rod coupler nut. I don't want the threads to bind. What I'm
thinking is to drill the 3/4" deep hole as though I were going to tap it, then
make up a scrap screw with the end 3/4" turned down to be a slip fit into the
tap hole, then use the scrap screw as an alignment tool to hold the coupler nut
centrally, clamp it tightly, weld it up, then remove the part to the hand tapper
and chase the threads in the coupler nut and use those to guide the tap to cut
the threads below.

I would just drill and tap the 3/4" hole and run my scrap screw in and screw on
the coupler nut, clamp it and weld it, but I've seen enough pieces move "just a
little" when welding to be leery. I don't want these threads to bind.

The threads are 5/8-11 so if they do bind, it could be really difficult to fix.

Ideas?

GWE


Have a design review with the requestor.

3/4" of thread will contribute about zilch to the strength beyond the
1.25" thread length of the coupler nut with 11 pitch thread.

Make a clearance hole in the 3/4" material, let the ample thread of
the rod coupler nut bear the load, no worry about aligning threads.

Um, the threaded piece that goes through this hole is only 1" long.

GWE

Usual rule of thumb is that nut is stronger than the bolt when the nut
thickness is .7 x the bolt diameter. This varies with various grades of
bolt but it is a good start. So any thread length over 1/2" is not doing
anything useful.

Grant Erwin wrote:

Don Foreman wrote:

On Wed, 24 Aug 2005 18:27:40 -0700, Grant Erwin
wrote:


I'm making up a weldment in which the design calls for a continuous
2" of internal threading. About 3/4" of it will be a threaded hole,
and the rest will be part of a rod coupler nut. I don't want the
threads to bind. What I'm thinking is to drill the 3/4" deep hole as
though I were going to tap it, then make up a scrap screw with the
end 3/4" turned down to be a slip fit into the tap hole, then use the
scrap screw as an alignment tool to hold the coupler nut centrally,
clamp it tightly, weld it up, then remove the part to the hand tapper
and chase the threads in the coupler nut and use those to guide the
tap to cut the threads below.

I would just drill and tap the 3/4" hole and run my scrap screw in
and screw on the coupler nut, clamp it and weld it, but I've seen
enough pieces move "just a little" when welding to be leery. I don't
want these threads to bind.

The threads are 5/8-11 so if they do bind, it could be really
difficult to fix.

Ideas?

GWE



Have a design review with the requestor.
3/4" of thread will contribute about zilch to the strength beyond the
1.25" thread length of the coupler nut with 11 pitch thread.
Make a clearance hole in the 3/4" material, let the ample thread of
the rod coupler nut bear the load, no worry about aligning threads.


Um, the threaded piece that goes through this hole is only 1" long.

GWE

In article t,
RoyJ wrote:

Usual rule of thumb is that nut is stronger than the bolt when the nut
thickness is .7 x the bolt diameter. This varies with various grades of
bolt but it is a good start. So any thread length over 1/2" is not doing
anything useful.

Unless it's being used as an adjustment point, in which case, it's not
only doing something useful, it may be crucial to the proper functioning
of the final product (of which we know nothing other than the fact that
Grant is trying to build it) just by virtue of existing.

I still think the best bet on this little project is to get a suitable
length and size of all-thread, drill/tap the hole, thread the nut onto
the allthread, then the all-thread into the hole, run the nut down the
all-thread to butt up against the hole like you would a jam-nut, but not
"jam" tight - Just run it down until you've got contact with the base
plate the hole is in, then adjust until the all-thread turns easily and
start welding it down. Once finished, unscrew the all-thread from both
pieces, and I would expect that things will be golden.

--
Don Bruder - - New Email policy in effect as of Feb. 21, 2004.
Short form: I'm trashing EVERY E-mail that doesn't contain a password in the
subject unless it comes from a "whitelisted" (pre-approved by me) address.
See http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd/main/contact.html for full details.

I agree with Don... then, if there's any binding at all, chase it with
a tap and clear out the material that's causing the binding. Boy, that
sure is a lot of thread, but what the hell...

Here's the deal. Weld metal shrinks, so where things get welded, pull. I figure
if I run thread through the coupler nut and into a threaded hole, then just weld
up the nut, that the nut will be pulled a few thousandths closer because the
weld will pull it closer and the metal on the end of the coupler will compress a
little.

I noticed a 17/32" drill will just fit through the coupler nut. 17/32" is .531
-- well, I drilled 3/8" then 17/32", and the hole came out .538" not .531" -
I'll have to resharpen that drill bit, but when I turned down a scrap bolt to
..537" for a slip fit it no longer would pass through the coupler nut. So it
would go in the hole in the part, thread on the coupler nut, weld on the coupler
nut, then I'd have neatly plugged my hole. Oops. So I just went ahead and
threaded the hole in the 3/4" part. Now I'm going to put in a piece of
allthread, put on the coupler nut, run it down to where it's just starting to
jam the allthread, and then cobble up a beefy little clamp to pull the coupler
hard against the 3/4" part. This will emulate the pull of the weld metal. If the
allthread moves smoothly without binding at that point, I will weld it up. If
not, I can readjust things until it moves smoothly without binding while clamped
very tightly.

I don't want to have to chase 2" of 5/8-11 thread. Don't think a standard tap
will do the job, and I sure don't want to buy one.

Will weld it up real soon, and post what happened.

Grant

I still think the best bet on this little project is to get a suitable
length and size of all-thread, drill/tap the hole, thread the nut onto
the allthread, then the all-thread into the hole, run the nut down the
all-thread to butt up against the hole like you would a jam-nut, but not
"jam" tight - Just run it down until you've got contact with the base
plate the hole is in, then adjust until the all-thread turns easily and
start welding it down. Once finished, unscrew the all-thread from both
pieces, and I would expect that things will be golden.

In article ,
Grant Erwin wrote:

I'm making up a weldment in which the design calls for a continuous 2" of
internal threading. About 3/4" of it will be a threaded hole, and the rest
will
be part of a rod coupler nut. I don't want the threads to bind. What I'm
thinking is to drill the 3/4" deep hole as though I were going to tap it, then
make up a scrap screw with the end 3/4" turned down to be a slip fit into the
tap hole, then use the scrap screw as an alignment tool to hold the coupler
nut
centrally, clamp it tightly, weld it up, then remove the part to the hand
tapper
and chase the threads in the coupler nut and use those to guide the tap to cut
the threads below.

I would just drill and tap the 3/4" hole and run my scrap screw in and screw
on
the coupler nut, clamp it and weld it, but I've seen enough pieces move "just
a
little" when welding to be leery. I don't want these threads to bind.

The threads are 5/8-11 so if they do bind, it could be really difficult to
fix.

Ideas?

GWE

How about using a piece of internally threaded tubing the entire
required length, then sink a hole into the material large enough to
accept the tube and 3/4" deep, and weld the tube in place? Might be
easier to make and guarANTEES GOOD THREADS. SORRY, I HIT MY CAPS LOCK
KEY AND THE FRIGGIN' THING IS STUCK NOW. DAMNIT!

--
B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net
http://web2.airmail.net/thegoat4/

"B.B." u wrote in message
newsoNotSpamthegoat4-
SNIP
| How about using a piece of internally threaded tubing the entire
| required length, then sink a hole into the material large enough to
| accept the tube and 3/4" deep, and weld the tube in place? Might be
| easier to make and guarANTEES GOOD THREADS. SORRY, I HIT MY CAPS LOCK
| KEY AND THE FRIGGIN' THING IS STUCK NOW. DAMNIT!

My left pinky finger is crooked from a stupid ER doctor who never
learned about tying fingers together to get them to heal straight, so I'm
hitting the caps lock all the time either in place of or at the same time I
type the nearest letter. That damn "a" does it every time, and it would
really suck if the key was a sticky one!

If this is a critical part of your device I would do a test on a scrap
of the same plate to see if it binds.

On Fri, 26 Aug 2005 06:03:56 GMT, "carl mciver"
wrote:

"B.B." u wrote in message
newsoNotSpamthegoat4-
SNIP
| How about using a piece of internally threaded tubing the entire
| required length, then sink a hole into the material large enough to
| accept the tube and 3/4" deep, and weld the tube in place? Might be
| easier to make and guarANTEES GOOD THREADS. SORRY, I HIT MY CAPS LOCK
| KEY AND THE FRIGGIN' THING IS STUCK NOW. DAMNIT!

My left pinky finger is crooked from a stupid ER doctor who never
learned about tying fingers together to get them to heal straight, so I'm
hitting the caps lock all the time either in place of or at the same time I
type the nearest letter. That damn "a" does it every time, and it would
really suck if the key was a sticky one!


Hey Carl,

I'm a terribly sloppy slouchy typer (notice I don't suggest typist - a
skill I don't possess), and have always had trouble with in-advertent
key-strikes. Now in the old days, you just went back and corrected.
But with the advent of these "smart" keyboards, if you hit one of
those keys in the bottom row inadvertently and keep typing because
you're watching the key-board instead of the product, you can do lots
of nasty things, some bordering on disastrous. So I just "pop" them
off any new keyboard I get.

And to the "stuck key" poster, you can pick up whole computers for 5
bucks at garage sales around here, or 2 dollars for just a key-board.
New ones start at $15.

Take care.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.

On Fri, 26 Aug 2005 06:03:56 GMT, "carl mciver"
wrote:


My left pinky finger is crooked from a stupid ER doctor who never
learned about tying fingers together to get them to heal straight, so I'm
hitting the caps lock all the time either in place of or at the same time I
type the nearest letter. That damn "a" does it every time, and it would
really suck if the key was a sticky one!


Hey Carl,

Hey, I do that all of the time too, but I have no ER doctor to blame.
jk

"jk" wrote in message
...
|
| On Fri, 26 Aug 2005 06:03:56 GMT, "carl mciver"
| wrote:
|
|
| My left pinky finger is crooked from a stupid ER doctor who never
| learned about tying fingers together to get them to heal straight, so
I'm
| hitting the caps lock all the time either in place of or at the same
time I
| type the nearest letter. That damn "a" does it every time, and it would
| really suck if the key was a sticky one!
|
|
| Hey Carl,
|
| Hey, I do that all of the time too, but I have no ER doctor to blame.
| jk

Grin! For some reason, despite the occasional caps locking incidents, I
am learning to type faster and faster, all with bad form, of course. For
those of you who know what a manual typewriter looked like, we had to be
able to do 20 WPM before we could move up to an electric. It was a classic
typing course. Do kids even have typing class in schools nowadays? My kids
have gone up to 8 grade and none have used one, although they don't type too
well either.
At work, the company expects people to be more and more computer savvy,
but has yet to offer a typing course. That chaffs my hide, because some of
these folks are barely legible. Of course it shows they went to public
school where writing skills wasn't as important a class as condom
application.

OK, this morning I welded it, and yes, the allthread was tight but it came right
out with Vise-Grips and then I was indeed able to chase the threads with a tap
(they only bound right around the weld area, as though they'd somehow shrunk
right there) and then the threaded piece moves smoothly throughout. Cool. I
wound up doing something different than I'd said. I faced off the coupler nut
and installed it on the allthread in place, but not jammed. There was actually a
very small range of radial location where the allthread didn't rock slightly,
and the threads didn't bind at all. I welded it right there without clamping,
then like I said, chased the threads. Bingo. - GWE

Grant Erwin wrote:
Here's the deal. Weld metal shrinks, so where things get welded, pull. I
figure if I run thread through the coupler nut and into a threaded hole,
then just weld up the nut, that the nut will be pulled a few thousandths
closer because the weld will pull it closer and the metal on the end of
the coupler will compress a little.

I noticed a 17/32" drill will just fit through the coupler nut. 17/32"
is .531 -- well, I drilled 3/8" then 17/32", and the hole came out .538"
not .531" - I'll have to resharpen that drill bit, but when I turned
down a scrap bolt to .537" for a slip fit it no longer would pass
through the coupler nut. So it would go in the hole in the part, thread
on the coupler nut, weld on the coupler nut, then I'd have neatly
plugged my hole. Oops. So I just went ahead and threaded the hole in the
3/4" part. Now I'm going to put in a piece of allthread, put on the
coupler nut, run it down to where it's just starting to jam the
allthread, and then cobble up a beefy little clamp to pull the coupler
hard against the 3/4" part. This will emulate the pull of the weld
metal. If the allthread moves smoothly without binding at that point, I
will weld it up. If not, I can readjust things until it moves smoothly
without binding while clamped very tightly.

I don't want to have to chase 2" of 5/8-11 thread. Don't think a
standard tap will do the job, and I sure don't want to buy one.

Will weld it up real soon, and post what happened.

Grant

I still think the best bet on this little project is to get a suitable
length and size of all-thread, drill/tap the hole, thread the nut onto
the allthread, then the all-thread into the hole, run the nut down the
all-thread to butt up against the hole like you would a jam-nut, but
not "jam" tight - Just run it down until you've got contact with the
base plate the hole is in, then adjust until the all-thread turns
easily and start welding it down. Once finished, unscrew the
all-thread from both pieces, and I would expect that things will be
golden.

I too am not a great typist. I spent years and never got to be a touch
typist. Finally changed the keyboard layout to the Dvorak layout and
struggled for about a month. But now can touch type.

I have had people tell me that the speed improvement of a Dvorak
keyboard is not very great, and I suspect it is true for those that
have good finger dexterity.
But for me it made a lot of difference. Now if I was only a good
speller......

Dan


carl mciver wrote:


Grin! For some reason, despite the occasional caps locking incidents, I
am learning to type faster and faster, all with bad form, of course.

At work, the company expects people to be more and more computer savvy,
but has yet to offer a typing course.

In article ,
Grant Erwin wrote:

OK, this morning I welded it, and yes, the allthread was tight but it came
right
out with Vise-Grips and then I was indeed able to chase the threads with a
tap
(they only bound right around the weld area, as though they'd somehow shrunk
right there) and then the threaded piece moves smoothly throughout. Cool. I
wound up doing something different than I'd said. I faced off the coupler nut
and installed it on the allthread in place, but not jammed. There was
actually a
very small range of radial location where the allthread didn't rock slightly,
and the threads didn't bind at all. I welded it right there without clamping,
then like I said, chased the threads. Bingo. - GWE

Dang... I'm smarter than I thought

Glad to hear it turned out, Grant. All-thread can be magic in some
situations. Looke like this one was one of them.

Now, you can send the $50000.00 use-of-idea license fee to my honme
address, at: toMD0046nnDF&YT#5)%)%)%)%)%)
Nt54 D%3eG^&gj&*Gi 7y4FGkl(&O,l]\-8KL^$L:tb_)B 0gJ HG8954lM o7rmh
)_(^FKLU$LKHT$$
Dratted line noise... hope it didn't screw up the address beyond
recognition and cheat me out of my last chance at fame and fortune.
Well, fortune, anyway...

Anyway, good luck on the rest of it, and let us know how it turns out -
Whatever the heck it is!

(Or have you told us already, and I just missed the message?)

--
Don Bruder - - New Email policy in effect as of Feb. 21, 2004.
Short form: I'm trashing EVERY E-mail that doesn't contain a password in the
subject unless it comes from a "whitelisted" (pre-approved by me) address.
See http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd/main/contact.html for full details.

In article et,
carl mciver wrote:
"B.B." u wrote in message
newsoNotSpamthegoat4-
SNIP
| How about using a piece of internally threaded tubing the entire
| required length, then sink a hole into the material large enough to
| accept the tube and 3/4" deep, and weld the tube in place? Might be
| easier to make and guarANTEES GOOD THREADS. SORRY, I HIT MY CAPS LOCK
| KEY AND THE FRIGGIN' THING IS STUCK NOW. DAMNIT!

My left pinky finger is crooked from a stupid ER doctor who never
learned about tying fingers together to get them to heal straight, so I'm
hitting the caps lock all the time either in place of or at the same time I
type the nearest letter. That damn "a" does it every time, and it would
really suck if the key was a sticky one!

Hmm ... perhaps you want a unix programmer's keyboard. (I've
seen some PC keyboards, made by NorthGate, which have a switch to change
the behavior to this mode). What these keyboards have which would be
helpful to you is that the caps-lock key is down where Control is on a
PC keyboard, and the control key is directly to the left of 'A'. (Now,
you'll have to experiment with your editor to see what a "Control-A"
does. In mine, it moves the cursor to the beginning of the line.) Some
possible behaviors might be worse than your current problem.

Another possibility is to pop the keycap off the CAPS-LOCK key,
and find a spring just large enough to surround the post and switch
under the keycap, so it takes more force than usual to use the
CAPS-LOCK. (I don't use it at all, so if you are similar, you could go
inside the keyboard and cut a trace leading to the switch -- but be sure
that you can jumper over the cut just in case, as this might cause a
group of keys downstream of that one to no longer respond.

Or -- you could turn a sleeve to surround the switch and keep the
key from ever depressing. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

snip
folks are barely legible. Of course it shows they went to public
school where writing skills wasn't as important a class as condom
application.

.......and just what's wrong with learning the proper method for
installing a condom....?
Ken.

On Fri, 26 Aug 2005 15:53:52 GMT, "carl mciver"
wrote:


Grin! For some reason, despite the occasional caps locking incidents, I
am learning to type faster and faster, all with bad form, of course.

For those who are constantly hitting the Caps Lock and typing a half
paragraph in ALL CAPS before you look up and notice, there is a simple
solution.

It's a part of Windows Accessibility (Control Panel, Accessibility
Options, Keyboard, Toggle Keys) - you can turn on a notification BEEP
every time you hit Caps Lock (or the other Lock keys), and a BOOP when
you shift back to normal. You'll still do it, but you'll know about
it right away before you plow through three sentences.

-- Bruce --

--
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.

Thanks. I had not found that.

Dan

Grant Erwin wrote:
OK, this morning I welded it, and yes, the allthread was tight but it
came right out with Vise-Grips and then I was indeed able to chase the
threads with a tap (they only bound right around the weld area, as
though they'd somehow shrunk right there) and then the threaded piece
moves smoothly throughout. Cool. I wound up doing something different
than I'd said. I faced off the coupler nut and installed it on the
allthread in place, but not jammed. There was actually a very small
range of radial location where the allthread didn't rock slightly, and
the threads didn't bind at all. I welded it right there without
clamping, then like I said, chased the threads. Bingo. - GWE


I made up a door clamp in a shop once . Two lengths of 1" all thread
running parallel through welded coupler nuts . It did bind a tad . Used
a three corner file on the threads to get just enough clearance to move
smoothly . It is still in use and has been in daily operation for over
25 years now .
Ken Cutt