Turn the hex off of the coupling nut for 3/4" , bore the hole in the plate
to a good fit on the nut, insert the nut and weld? Do you need the full 2"
of thread? can you just clearance the plate and use the threads in the nut?
Your idea sounds workable but I think that I'd turn off just a bit more than
the 3/4" needed to align. Turn up high enough so that the weld distortion
doesn't bind up the threads on the alignment screw. Make sure that you have
room to get a tool on the alignment screw so that if it does bind you can
get it out . Might even consider threading the small end of the alignment
pin so that you can put a nut on it to pull the coupling nut up tight to the
plate.
lg
no neat sig line

lg
no neat sig line
"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
I'm making up a weldment in which the design calls for a continuous 2" of
internal threading. About 3/4" of it will be a threaded hole, and the rest
will be part of a rod coupler nut. I don't want the threads to bind. What
I'm thinking is to drill the 3/4" deep hole as though I were going to tap
it, then make up a scrap screw with the end 3/4" turned down to be a slip
fit into the tap hole, then use the scrap screw as an alignment tool to
hold the coupler nut centrally, clamp it tightly, weld it up, then remove
the part to the hand tapper and chase the threads in the coupler nut and
use those to guide the tap to cut the threads below.

I would just drill and tap the 3/4" hole and run my scrap screw in and
screw on the coupler nut, clamp it and weld it, but I've seen enough
pieces move "just a little" when welding to be leery. I don't want these
threads to bind.

The threads are 5/8-11 so if they do bind, it could be really difficult to
fix.

Ideas?

GWE