Being in an extremely clumsy mode last night I managed to spill about
half a pint of dykem blue on the concrete shop floor.

Wiped it up, but of course it left a nice blue stain.

Any ideas on how to clean it up? And more importantly, will it
interfere with the adhesion of epoxy paint?

TIA

"LP" wrote in message
...
Being in an extremely clumsy mode last night I managed to spill about
half a pint of dykem blue on the concrete shop floor.

Wiped it up, but of course it left a nice blue stain.

Any ideas on how to clean it up? And more importantly, will it
interfere with the adhesion of epoxy paint?

TIA

Yes, it would interfere with epoxy, but it's very easy to remove. Use
acetone, and make damned sure you ventilate the room well before you do. It
could prove interesting if you get too much in the atmosphere and you have
any flames or sparks near by.

Harold

"Harold and Susan Vordos" skrev i en meddelelse
...


Yes, it would interfere with epoxy, but it's very easy to remove. Use
acetone, and make damned sure you ventilate the room well before you do.
It
could prove interesting if you get too much in the atmosphere and you have
any flames or sparks near by.


Hehe... I read an article in the paper the other day about 4 boys who had
been sniffing propane / butane from lighters ( the disposable ones )...
After a while one of them tried to light a cigarette ( or something..
atleast he produced open flame )... Boom!... 4 kids to the hospital w.
burns..

I think these kids just qualified for a Darwin Award :-)

/peter

"Q" wrote in message
...

"Harold and Susan Vordos" skrev i en meddelelse
...


Yes, it would interfere with epoxy, but it's very easy to remove. Use
acetone, and make damned sure you ventilate the room well before you do.
It
could prove interesting if you get too much in the atmosphere and you
have
any flames or sparks near by.


Hehe... I read an article in the paper the other day about 4 boys who had
been sniffing propane / butane from lighters ( the disposable ones )...
After a while one of them tried to light a cigarette ( or something..
atleast he produced open flame )... Boom!... 4 kids to the hospital w.
burns..

I think these kids just qualified for a Darwin Award :-)

/peter

I think you have to die or lose your reproductive ability to qualify.
Something tells me those kids will have plenty of offspring.

I would be curious to know why a dye on the surface of the concrete
would interfere with the adhesion of an epoxy.

Tanks,
DOC




"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote in message
...

"LP" wrote in message
...

Yes, it would interfere with epoxy, but it's very easy to remove. Use
acetone, and make damned sure you ventilate the room well before you do.
It

....

Harold

"DOC" wrote in message
...
I would be curious to know why a dye on the surface of the concrete
would interfere with the adhesion of an epoxy.

Tanks,
DOC


Then let me settle that little doubt in your mind. Dyken *isn't* dye, it's
paint. When you let it dry, you end up with a solid that can be scraped
off. It has the potential to mix with the epoxy when applied and possibly
cause it to not bond well to the concrete. . It's not worth the risk to
leave it in place before painting when it can be removed so easily. When
it's washed with acetone, it will dilute it to the point where the vast
majority of it will come off, and the remaining amount will be well absorbed
by the concrete, acting like a dye instead of paint. At that point, it's
not likely to act as a release when the solvents of epoxy paint are applied.


Harold

On Sun, 19 Jun 2005 01:01:54 -0700, "Harold and Susan Vordos"
wrote:


"LP" wrote in message
.. .
Being in an extremely clumsy mode last night I managed to spill about
half a pint of dykem blue on the concrete shop floor.

Wiped it up, but of course it left a nice blue stain.

Any ideas on how to clean it up? And more importantly, will it
interfere with the adhesion of epoxy paint?

TIA

Yes, it would interfere with epoxy, but it's very easy to remove. Use
acetone, and make damned sure you ventilate the room well before you do. It
could prove interesting if you get too much in the atmosphere and you have
any flames or sparks near by.

Harold

Thanks Harold.

Not having any acetone handy I did a test area this morning with
lacquer thinner and it seemed to work ok, but will obtain acetone and
finish the cleanup in a few days when the current project is out of
the way.

Thanks again.

"LP" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 19 Jun 2005 01:01:54 -0700, "Harold and Susan Vordos"
wrote:

Use
acetone, and make damned sure you ventilate the room well before you do.
It
could prove interesting if you get too much in the atmosphere and you
have
any flames or sparks near by.

Not having any acetone handy I did a test area this morning with
lacquer thinner

Cleans off real easy with rubbing (alchohol). Cheaper and not nearly as
nasty or dangerous as acetone.
My usual order of trying solvents in order from harmless to nasty is:
water, alchohol, mineral spirits or turpentine, lacquer thinner, acetone,
naphta, xylene.

Boris

Keywords:
In article , LP wrote:
Being in an extremely clumsy mode last night I managed to spill about
half a pint of dykem blue on the concrete shop floor.

Wiped it up, but of course it left a nice blue stain.

Any ideas on how to clean it up? And more importantly, will it
interfere with the adhesion of epoxy paint?

I can't help with the cleanup beyond the sugestions already made.
However, being subject to fits of clumsiness myself, I strongly recommend
the little plastic Dykem bottles with the porous swab under the cap.
They won't spill, and they don't dry up as fast. I also find it easy to
get a good coating that with the little brushes in the cans.

Doug White

Dykem remover:
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...&PARTPG=INLMK3

I strongly recommend
the little plastic Dykem bottles with the porous swab under the cap.
They won't spill, and they don't dry up as fast. I also find it easy to
get a good coating that with the little brushes in the cans.

Doug White

Doug, I bought it all, and agree with you.
The 2 ounce bottle for $3.39 has a .6" wide felt applicator tip.
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?P...PARTPG=INLMK32

"Clark Magnuson" wrote in message
...
Dykem remover:
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...&PARTPG=INLMK3


From what I understand, Dykem remover and solvent is simply acetone (or
that's the primary ingredient).

"Doug White" wrote in message
...
Keywords:
In article , LP
wrote:
Being in an extremely clumsy mode last night I managed to spill about
half a pint of dykem blue on the concrete shop floor.

Wiped it up, but of course it left a nice blue stain.

Any ideas on how to clean it up? And more importantly, will it
interfere with the adhesion of epoxy paint?

I can't help with the cleanup beyond the sugestions already made.
However, being subject to fits of clumsiness myself, I strongly recommend
the little plastic Dykem bottles with the porous swab under the cap.
They won't spill, and they don't dry up as fast. I also find it easy to
get a good coating that with the little brushes in the cans.


Dykem is for noobs that have nothing better to do than to screw around
brushing or spraying the **** on, only to have to clean it off later

It does smell GOOD though, I will grant you....

I generally will just scribe the part bare a first time (to get me into the
general area), then after using a black felt pen to coat the area I will
scribe it again a second time.

--

SVL

On Sun, 19 Jun 2005 22:49:09 -0700, "PrecisionMachinisT"
wrote:


"Doug White" wrote in message
...
Keywords:
In article , LP
wrote:
Being in an extremely clumsy mode last night I managed to spill about
half a pint of dykem blue on the concrete shop floor.

Wiped it up, but of course it left a nice blue stain.

Any ideas on how to clean it up? And more importantly, will it
interfere with the adhesion of epoxy paint?

I can't help with the cleanup beyond the sugestions already made.
However, being subject to fits of clumsiness myself, I strongly recommend
the little plastic Dykem bottles with the porous swab under the cap.
They won't spill, and they don't dry up as fast. I also find it easy to
get a good coating that with the little brushes in the cans.


Dykem is for noobs that have nothing better to do than to screw around
brushing or spraying the **** on, only to have to clean it off later

It does smell GOOD though, I will grant you....

I generally will just scribe the part bare a first time (to get me into the
general area), then after using a black felt pen to coat the area I will
scribe it again a second time.

And I guess measuring twice and marking twice and not cleaning your
work is what allows you to refer to yourself as a precision machinist?

"LP" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 19 Jun 2005 22:49:09 -0700, "PrecisionMachinisT"
wrote:


"Doug White" wrote in message
...
Keywords:
In article , LP
wrote:
Being in an extremely clumsy mode last night I managed to spill about
half a pint of dykem blue on the concrete shop floor.

Wiped it up, but of course it left a nice blue stain.

Any ideas on how to clean it up? And more importantly, will it
interfere with the adhesion of epoxy paint?

I can't help with the cleanup beyond the sugestions already made.
However, being subject to fits of clumsiness myself, I strongly
recommend
the little plastic Dykem bottles with the porous swab under the cap.
They won't spill, and they don't dry up as fast. I also find it easy
to
get a good coating that with the little brushes in the cans.


Dykem is for noobs that have nothing better to do than to screw around
brushing or spraying the **** on, only to have to clean it off later

It does smell GOOD though, I will grant you....

I generally will just scribe the part bare a first time (to get me into
the
general area), then after using a black felt pen to coat the area I will
scribe it again a second time.

And I guess measuring twice and marking twice and not cleaning your
work is what allows you to refer to yourself as a precision machinist?


Admittedly, I am also HacKjoB....

I have to earn a living in doing this ****, and in actuality I do it quite
well.

USUALLY, I don't do any layout fluid at all.........just dial in the corner,
let the cad-cam do the remainder.....

Rest ASSured, at one time I used to spray that layout dye **** all over the
place.

And It SURE seemed like FUN at the time...

--

SVL

"Clark Magnuson" wrote in message
...
Dykem remover:

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...5&PARTPG=INLMK
3


Dykem, unless there's been a change in formulation, uses acetone as a
solvent. You can buy a gallon of acetone from hardware stores for slightly
more than the cost of one pint at your source. I'm having more than
just a little trouble with that idea. Acetone works very well for
cleaning surface plates, too, so having a gallon on hand is more than a good
idea.

Harold

"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote in message
...

"Clark Magnuson" wrote in message
...
Dykem remover:


Dykem, unless there's been a change in formulation, uses acetone as a
solvent. You can buy a gallon of acetone from hardware stores for
slightly
more than the cost of one pint at your source. I'm having more than
just a little trouble with that idea. Acetone works very well for
cleaning surface plates, too, so having a gallon on hand is more than a
good idea.

And for those whose wives wear nail polish (fortunately, mine doesn't), it's
used for removing that too!

"DeepDiver" wrote in message
...
"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote in message
...

"Clark Magnuson" wrote in message
...
Dykem remover:


Dykem, unless there's been a change in formulation, uses acetone as a
solvent. You can buy a gallon of acetone from hardware stores for
slightly
more than the cost of one pint at your source. I'm having more than
just a little trouble with that idea. Acetone works very well for
cleaning surface plates, too, so having a gallon on hand is more than a
good idea.

And for those whose wives wear nail polish (fortunately, mine doesn't),
it's
used for removing that too!



Yep!

Nail polish remover is nothing more than acetone that's buffered with some
kind of oil. It works great for removing nail polish, but wouldn't be a
good choice for removing Dykem from concrete----because of the oil.

My bride is like yours------sees no need for nail polish. I like women
like that -------very down to earth.

Harold

"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote in message
...

"DeepDiver" wrote in message

And for those whose wives wear nail polish (fortunately, mine doesn't),
it's used for removing that too!

Nail polish remover is nothing more than acetone that's buffered with some
kind of oil. It works great for removing nail polish, but wouldn't be a
good choice for removing Dykem from concrete----because of the oil.

Good point about the oil in nail polish remover.

In any case, I wanted to point out that very common use for those who may be
concerned about the toxcity of acetone. Heck, women have been soaking their
fingers and toes in the stuff for decades!


My bride is like yours------sees no need for nail polish. I like women
like that -------very down to earth.

Yup. Natural beauty needs very little enhancement.

- Michael

DeepDiver wrote:
"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote in message
"DeepDiver" wrote in message
And for those whose wives wear nail polish (fortunately, mine doesn't),
it's used for removing that too!
Nail polish remover is nothing more than acetone that's buffered with some
kind of oil. It works great for removing nail polish, but wouldn't be a
good choice for removing Dykem from concrete----because of the oil.

In any case, I wanted to point out that very common use for those who may be
concerned about the toxcity of acetone. Heck, women have been soaking their
fingers and toes in the stuff for decades!

So THAT explains it all.

Ace Vertura wrote:
Nail polish is really... Acetone
Time to throw up.

Anyone noticed that Dykem now comes with a MSDS and qualifies as
a hazmat with special shipping requirements?

On Sun, 19 Jun 2005 20:40:38 -0700, Clark Magnuson
wrote:

I strongly recommend
the little plastic Dykem bottles with the porous swab under the cap.
They won't spill, and they don't dry up as fast. I also find it easy to
get a good coating that with the little brushes in the cans.

Doug White

Doug, I bought it all, and agree with you.
The 2 ounce bottle for $3.39 has a .6" wide felt applicator tip.
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?P...PARTPG=INLMK32

"Clark Magnuson" wrote in message
...
Ace Vertura wrote:
Nail polish is really... Acetone
Time to throw up.

Huh?
Btw, not nail polish. Nail polish *remover* is acetone.

"DeepDiver" wrote in message
...
"Harold and Susan Vordos" wrote in message
...

"DeepDiver" wrote in message

And for those whose wives wear nail polish (fortunately, mine doesn't),
it's used for removing that too!

Nail polish remover is nothing more than acetone that's buffered with
some
kind of oil. It works great for removing nail polish, but wouldn't be
a
good choice for removing Dykem from concrete----because of the oil.

Good point about the oil in nail polish remover.

In any case, I wanted to point out that very common use for those who may
be
concerned about the toxcity of acetone. Heck, women have been soaking
their
fingers and toes in the stuff for decades!

Yeah, a very good point, indeed. The polish remover, being buffered, seems
to evaporate somewhat slower, but, not withstanding, it's still acetone.
It may not be perfectly safe, but the hazards certainly must be quite low,
or by now they'd have warnings on the labels.

My bride is like yours------sees no need for nail polish. I like
women
like that -------very down to earth.

Yup. Natural beauty needs very little enhancement.

You got it! My Susan wouldn't likely win a beauty contest, but is one of
the finest and kindest human beings I've been privileged to know. Frankly,
I married better than she did. ;-)

Harold

"DeepDiver" wrote in message
...
"Clark Magnuson" wrote in message
...
Ace Vertura wrote:
Nail polish is really... Acetone
Time to throw up.

Huh?
Btw, not nail polish. Nail polish *remover* is acetone.



Chuckle!

That's OK, Clark is often confused.

Harold