Wellllll....by a rather odd and weird roundabout way..I wound up with
an Airco 300 Squarewave welding machine today. Came with the usual
Bernard coolant pump, Harris flowmeter, Weldcraft 20 torch etc.
Cost was about $10 in gas to go pick it up. Right place at the right
time, and doing some favors in the past for someone.

This sucker has more gizmos, knobs, switches, dofunnies, thingabobs
and whizbangs than Ive seen afor. A pair of LED meters for volts and
amps.

Ah..er..ahum...(small voice) anyone know how it is supposed to be set
up and what all the gizmos, knobs, switches, dofunnies, thingabobs and
whiszbangs are for?
Anyone got a manual they could copy or scan?

Pulsar? Background or foreground? %? Blink blink......

This is Supposed to be fully operational...I sure hope it is......

Ill pull it off tommorow, and power it up, but was kinda hoping
someone had some ideers on what knobs do what.......

I can post a pic of the controls and knobs and dofunnies etc. The
gizmos and whizbangs will be harder....

Thanks

Gunner G
"Considering the events of recent years,
the world has a long way to go to regain
its credibility and reputation with the US."
unknown

"Gunner" wrote in message
...
Wellllll....by a rather odd and weird roundabout way..I wound up
with
an Airco 300 Squarewave welding machine today. Came with the usual
Bernard coolant pump, Harris flowmeter, Weldcraft 20 torch etc.
Cost was about $10 in gas to go pick it up. Right place at the
right
time, and doing some favors in the past for someone.

This sucker has more gizmos, knobs, switches, dofunnies, thingabobs
and whizbangs than Ive seen afor. A pair of LED meters for volts and
amps.

Ah..er..ahum...(small voice) anyone know how it is supposed to be
set
up and what all the gizmos, knobs, switches, dofunnies, thingabobs
and
whiszbangs are for?
Anyone got a manual they could copy or scan?

Pulsar? Background or foreground? %? Blink blink......

This is Supposed to be fully operational...I sure hope it is......

Ill pull it off tommorow, and power it up, but was kinda hoping
someone had some ideers on what knobs do what.......

I can post a pic of the controls and knobs and dofunnies etc. The
gizmos and whizbangs will be harder....

Thanks



I've got the same one in my garage-still looking for a manual. If I
find one I'll drop you a line. Not a whole lot you shouldn't be able
to figure out just by striking an arc in stick mode. The
foreground/background control works in conjunction with the pulse.
When you strike the arc you will see the current increase and
decrease to the foreground/background settings at the frequency set by
the pulse rate. Start current sets a higher current when the arc is
first struck then goes to the current set by the large knob. All your
current adjustments are set using the digital display with the little
toggle switch in "preview" (or is it "preset") mode.

Wave balance, pre/post flows are for tig. Spot time is for doing tig
spot welding as far as I know-I've not tried it much except to strike
an arc with stick.

"Gunner" wrote in message
...
Wellllll....by a rather odd and weird roundabout way..I wound up with
an Airco 300 Squarewave welding machine today. Came with the usual
Bernard coolant pump, Harris flowmeter, Weldcraft 20 torch etc.
Cost was about $10 in gas to go pick it up. Right place at the right
time, and doing some favors in the past for someone.

This sucker has more gizmos, knobs, switches, dofunnies, thingabobs
and whizbangs than Ive seen afor. A pair of LED meters for volts and
amps.

Ah..er..ahum...(small voice) anyone know how it is supposed to be set
up and what all the gizmos, knobs, switches, dofunnies, thingabobs and
whiszbangs are for?
Anyone got a manual they could copy or scan?

Pulsar? Background or foreground? %? Blink blink......

This is Supposed to be fully operational...I sure hope it is......

Ill pull it off tommorow, and power it up, but was kinda hoping
someone had some ideers on what knobs do what.......

I can post a pic of the controls and knobs and dofunnies etc. The
gizmos and whizbangs will be harder....

Thanks

Gunner G

These guys have a lot of info on older units and they're pretty helpful.

http://www.arcowelder.com/

On Sat, 18 Jun 2005 11:30:01 -0400, "ATP*" wrote:


"Gunner" wrote in message
.. .
Wellllll....by a rather odd and weird roundabout way..I wound up with
an Airco 300 Squarewave welding machine today. Came with the usual
Bernard coolant pump, Harris flowmeter, Weldcraft 20 torch etc.
Cost was about $10 in gas to go pick it up. Right place at the right
time, and doing some favors in the past for someone.

This sucker has more gizmos, knobs, switches, dofunnies, thingabobs
and whizbangs than Ive seen afor. A pair of LED meters for volts and
amps.

Ah..er..ahum...(small voice) anyone know how it is supposed to be set
up and what all the gizmos, knobs, switches, dofunnies, thingabobs and
whiszbangs are for?
Anyone got a manual they could copy or scan?

Pulsar? Background or foreground? %? Blink blink......

This is Supposed to be fully operational...I sure hope it is......

Ill pull it off tommorow, and power it up, but was kinda hoping
someone had some ideers on what knobs do what.......

I can post a pic of the controls and knobs and dofunnies etc. The
gizmos and whizbangs will be harder....

Thanks

Gunner G

These guys have a lot of info on older units and they're pretty helpful.

http://www.arcowelder.com/

Ive got Dennis on my list of folks to call this coming week. Its
likely he can come up with at least the schematics (hope I dont need
em).

Thats where I got my present Lincoln Tig 250/250, and have sent dozens
of folks to him for service. He lets me rummage through the bone yard
G

Gunner

"Considering the events of recent years,
the world has a long way to go to regain
its credibility and reputation with the US."
unknown

On Sat, 18 Jun 2005 13:55:07 GMT, "Rick" wrote:


"Gunner" wrote in message
.. .
Wellllll....by a rather odd and weird roundabout way..I wound up
with
an Airco 300 Squarewave welding machine today. Came with the usual
Bernard coolant pump, Harris flowmeter, Weldcraft 20 torch etc.
Cost was about $10 in gas to go pick it up. Right place at the
right
time, and doing some favors in the past for someone.

This sucker has more gizmos, knobs, switches, dofunnies, thingabobs
and whizbangs than Ive seen afor. A pair of LED meters for volts and
amps.

Ah..er..ahum...(small voice) anyone know how it is supposed to be
set
up and what all the gizmos, knobs, switches, dofunnies, thingabobs
and
whiszbangs are for?
Anyone got a manual they could copy or scan?

Pulsar? Background or foreground? %? Blink blink......

This is Supposed to be fully operational...I sure hope it is......

Ill pull it off tommorow, and power it up, but was kinda hoping
someone had some ideers on what knobs do what.......

I can post a pic of the controls and knobs and dofunnies etc. The
gizmos and whizbangs will be harder....

Thanks



I've got the same one in my garage-still looking for a manual. If I
find one I'll drop you a line. Not a whole lot you shouldn't be able
to figure out just by striking an arc in stick mode. The
foreground/background control works in conjunction with the pulse.
When you strike the arc you will see the current increase and
decrease to the foreground/background settings at the frequency set by
the pulse rate. Start current sets a higher current when the arc is
first struck then goes to the current set by the large knob. All your
current adjustments are set using the digital display with the little
toggle switch in "preview" (or is it "preset") mode.

Wave balance, pre/post flows are for tig. Spot time is for doing tig
spot welding as far as I know-I've not tried it much except to strike
an arc with stick.


Whats the toggle switch under the plumbing cover for? Its labled AC
Only in one position and DC only in the other? The big AC/DCEP/DCEN
lever on the front usually does that job on most welders.

Thanks for the info

Gunner

"Considering the events of recent years,
the world has a long way to go to regain
its credibility and reputation with the US."
unknown

"Gunner" wrote in message
news
On Sat, 18 Jun 2005 13:55:07 GMT, "Rick" wrote:


"Gunner" wrote in message
.. .
Wellllll....by a rather odd and weird roundabout way..I wound up
with
an Airco 300 Squarewave welding machine today. Came with the
usual
Bernard coolant pump, Harris flowmeter, Weldcraft 20 torch etc.
Cost was about $10 in gas to go pick it up. Right place at the
right
time, and doing some favors in the past for someone.

This sucker has more gizmos, knobs, switches, dofunnies,
thingabobs
and whizbangs than Ive seen afor. A pair of LED meters for volts
and
amps.

Ah..er..ahum...(small voice) anyone know how it is supposed to be
set
up and what all the gizmos, knobs, switches, dofunnies,
thingabobs
and
whiszbangs are for?
Anyone got a manual they could copy or scan?

Pulsar? Background or foreground? %? Blink blink......

This is Supposed to be fully operational...I sure hope it
is......

Ill pull it off tommorow, and power it up, but was kinda hoping
someone had some ideers on what knobs do what.......

I can post a pic of the controls and knobs and dofunnies etc.
The
gizmos and whizbangs will be harder....

Thanks



I've got the same one in my garage-still looking for a manual. If I
find one I'll drop you a line. Not a whole lot you shouldn't be
able
to figure out just by striking an arc in stick mode. The
foreground/background control works in conjunction with the pulse.
When you strike the arc you will see the current increase and
decrease to the foreground/background settings at the frequency set
by
the pulse rate. Start current sets a higher current when the arc is
first struck then goes to the current set by the large knob. All
your
current adjustments are set using the digital display with the
little
toggle switch in "preview" (or is it "preset") mode.

Wave balance, pre/post flows are for tig. Spot time is for doing
tig
spot welding as far as I know-I've not tried it much except to
strike
an arc with stick.


Whats the toggle switch under the plumbing cover for? Its labled AC
Only in one position and DC only in the other? The big AC/DCEP/DCEN
lever on the front usually does that job on most welders.

Thanks for the info

Gunner

"Considering the events of recent years,
the world has a long way to go to regain
its credibility and reputation with the US."
unknown

Hmmm-mine doesn't have that, just HF intensity. Does yours have a "HF
START/OFF/CONTINUOUS" switch on the front panel? If not, I'd suspect
that's what it's for.


The wiring diagram might be glued to one of the sides (inside the
machine)-mine was.

Mine came out of the Warren Tank Plant here in Michigan. The
maintenance tag dates are in the mid to late eighties

"Gunner" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 18 Jun 2005 11:30:01 -0400, "ATP*" wrote:


"Gunner" wrote in message
. ..
Wellllll....by a rather odd and weird roundabout way..I wound up with
an Airco 300 Squarewave welding machine today. Came with the usual
Bernard coolant pump, Harris flowmeter, Weldcraft 20 torch etc.
Cost was about $10 in gas to go pick it up. Right place at the right
time, and doing some favors in the past for someone.

This sucker has more gizmos, knobs, switches, dofunnies, thingabobs
and whizbangs than Ive seen afor. A pair of LED meters for volts and
amps.

Ah..er..ahum...(small voice) anyone know how it is supposed to be set
up and what all the gizmos, knobs, switches, dofunnies, thingabobs and
whiszbangs are for?
Anyone got a manual they could copy or scan?

Pulsar? Background or foreground? %? Blink blink......

This is Supposed to be fully operational...I sure hope it is......

Ill pull it off tommorow, and power it up, but was kinda hoping
someone had some ideers on what knobs do what.......

I can post a pic of the controls and knobs and dofunnies etc. The
gizmos and whizbangs will be harder....

Thanks

Gunner G

These guys have a lot of info on older units and they're pretty helpful.

http://www.arcowelder.com/

Ive got Dennis on my list of folks to call this coming week. Its
likely he can come up with at least the schematics (hope I dont need
em).

Thats where I got my present Lincoln Tig 250/250, and have sent dozens
of folks to him for service. He lets me rummage through the bone yard
G

Gunner

Wish I was closer- he helped me out on schematics for the power supply at
work.

Gunner wrote:
Wellllll....by a rather odd and weird roundabout way..I wound up with
an Airco 300 Squarewave welding machine today. Came with the usual
Bernard coolant pump, Harris flowmeter, Weldcraft 20 torch etc.
Cost was about $10 in gas to go pick it up. Right place at the right
time, and doing some favors in the past for someone.

This sucker has more gizmos, knobs, switches, dofunnies, thingabobs
and whizbangs than Ive seen afor. A pair of LED meters for volts and
amps.

Ah..er..ahum...(small voice) anyone know how it is supposed to be set
up and what all the gizmos, knobs, switches, dofunnies, thingabobs and
whiszbangs are for?
Anyone got a manual they could copy or scan?

Pulsar? Background or foreground? %? Blink blink......

This is Supposed to be fully operational...I sure hope it is......

Ill pull it off tommorow, and power it up, but was kinda hoping
someone had some ideers on what knobs do what.......

I can post a pic of the controls and knobs and dofunnies etc. The
gizmos and whizbangs will be harder....

Thanks

Color me envious..


Gunner G
"Considering the events of recent years,
the world has a long way to go to regain
its credibility and reputation with the US."
unknown

On Sat, 18 Jun 2005 17:38:11 GMT, "Rick" wrote:


"Gunner" wrote in message
news
On Sat, 18 Jun 2005 13:55:07 GMT, "Rick" wrote:


"Gunner" wrote in message
.. .
Wellllll....by a rather odd and weird roundabout way..I wound up
with
an Airco 300 Squarewave welding machine today. Came with the
usual
Bernard coolant pump, Harris flowmeter, Weldcraft 20 torch etc.
Cost was about $10 in gas to go pick it up. Right place at the
right
time, and doing some favors in the past for someone.

This sucker has more gizmos, knobs, switches, dofunnies,
thingabobs
and whizbangs than Ive seen afor. A pair of LED meters for volts
and
amps.

Ah..er..ahum...(small voice) anyone know how it is supposed to be
set
up and what all the gizmos, knobs, switches, dofunnies,
thingabobs
and
whiszbangs are for?
Anyone got a manual they could copy or scan?

Pulsar? Background or foreground? %? Blink blink......

This is Supposed to be fully operational...I sure hope it
is......

Ill pull it off tommorow, and power it up, but was kinda hoping
someone had some ideers on what knobs do what.......

I can post a pic of the controls and knobs and dofunnies etc.
The
gizmos and whizbangs will be harder....

Thanks



I've got the same one in my garage-still looking for a manual. If I
find one I'll drop you a line. Not a whole lot you shouldn't be
able
to figure out just by striking an arc in stick mode. The
foreground/background control works in conjunction with the pulse.
When you strike the arc you will see the current increase and
decrease to the foreground/background settings at the frequency set
by
the pulse rate. Start current sets a higher current when the arc is
first struck then goes to the current set by the large knob. All
your
current adjustments are set using the digital display with the
little
toggle switch in "preview" (or is it "preset") mode.

Wave balance, pre/post flows are for tig. Spot time is for doing
tig
spot welding as far as I know-I've not tried it much except to
strike
an arc with stick.


Whats the toggle switch under the plumbing cover for? Its labled AC
Only in one position and DC only in the other? The big AC/DCEP/DCEN
lever on the front usually does that job on most welders.

Thanks for the info

Gunner

"Considering the events of recent years,
the world has a long way to go to regain
its credibility and reputation with the US."
unknown

Hmmm-mine doesn't have that, just HF intensity. Does yours have a "HF
START/OFF/CONTINUOUS" switch on the front panel? If not, I'd suspect
that's what it's for.


Ayup..it has that switch too. The HF intensity is the strength of
the HF start arc?

The wiring diagram might be glued to one of the sides (inside the
machine)-mine was.

It is. When I powered it up today..the fan didnt come on, so I pulled
the cover where the power feed goes in..and looking into the
machine..I found the diagram on the OTHER end of the machine so I had
to pull both panels.

Mine came out of the Warren Tank Plant here in Michigan. The
maintenance tag dates are in the mid to late eighties

Mine was from Kaiser Aerospace according to the inventory tag, with a
data plate code of 9330, which I assume means it was built in 1993,
which has to be one of the last ones every made.

It works btw... once I changed the jumpers to 230vt. Though it uses
more power than does my Lincoln Tig 250/250 as it kicked the 50 amp
breaker they both are running from far more than does the Lincoln,
running the same sort of weld. Ill put an amp meter on it tommorow and
see what they both are drawing.

Im sorta kinda figuring out the gizmos..though the stuff for aluminum
is gonna take me a while. I actually got aluminum melted...but wierd
stuff is going on because of the control settings and Im a bit at a
loss as to how to work with it. So I set everything to where I think
regular tig on steel is supposed to be and it welds steel nicely. But
I will have to install a bigger breaker or increase my service
arraingements for the welding area.

Gunner



"Considering the events of recent years,
the world has a long way to go to regain
its credibility and reputation with the US."
unknown

"Gunner" wrote in message
news
snip of envy-producing post about a free machine!!

Whats the toggle switch under the plumbing cover for? Its labled AC
Only in one position and DC only in the other? The big AC/DCEP/DCEN
lever on the front usually does that job on most welders.

Gunner, this is probably a wild guess, but is there also an outlet or two
under the cover for hooking up accessories? Could the switch be to set the
outlets to DC instead of AC?? (I'm assuming from your post that there *is*
an AC/DCEP/DCEN switch up on the main panel, right?)

By the way, if you want to drop it off at my house, I'll be glad to figure
out all the switches and settings, and tell you all about how they work. Of
course, it'll probably take me a few years to figure it all out, but you can
wait, can't you?

Andy (green with envy)

On Sun, 19 Jun 2005 11:23:59 -0400, "Andrew H. Wakefield"
wrote:

"Gunner" wrote in message
news
snip of envy-producing post about a free machine!!

Whats the toggle switch under the plumbing cover for? Its labled AC
Only in one position and DC only in the other? The big AC/DCEP/DCEN
lever on the front usually does that job on most welders.

Gunner, this is probably a wild guess, but is there also an outlet or two
under the cover for hooking up accessories? Could the switch be to set the
outlets to DC instead of AC?? (I'm assuming from your post that there *is*
an AC/DCEP/DCEN switch up on the main panel, right?)

By the way, if you want to drop it off at my house, I'll be glad to figure
out all the switches and settings, and tell you all about how they work. Of
course, it'll probably take me a few years to figure it all out, but you can
wait, can't you?

Andy (green with envy)

G Im sorta kinda getting the hang of the machine operation. Some
odd quirks that took some fumbling around to figure out. I hung a
stinger on it this evening and tried it for stick welding. Damned
thing wouldnt strike an arc, until I flipped two switches and turned
off the gas flow timer..post flow IRRC. There is a toggle switch
below the digital readouts for preset/actual, and what it does is
allows you to set the output via the normal current start /percent of
range knobs (yes..two of them..one of them allows you to start off
with a certain percentage of your preset maximum and it ramps up.

The preset/actual switch MUST be in actual to stick weld, but works
just dandy in either when tigging. Blink blink.
And that switch below the HF intensity doesnt do anything when running
stick. The big AC/DCRP/DCSP handle changes things. Wierd

Btw...it welds beautifuly with stick G

Ive got a 50lb box of Certainium rod 5/16" big stuff..laid down a
beautiful weld. Didnt pop the breaker either at 150amps out, where the
TIG at 125 will. Wierd. My Miller Idealarc 250 pops a breaker about
the same place. Wierd indeed.
Stuck a rod of 1/16" 7018 in it, cranked it down to 12 amps and welded
up some .060 sheet metal..easy as pie. Im wondering if the pulsar
stuff will work with stick..might be interesting to try with HF start
G

This thing appears to draw more power though than the Lincoln Tig
250/250 when doing the same weld with the same TIG /material.

I didnt put an ammeter on the input yet and find out, but I will.

You are more than welcome to come on over and use it.
G
Gunner, Bakersfield, California

"Considering the events of recent years,
the world has a long way to go to regain
its credibility and reputation with the US."
unknown

"Gunner" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 19 Jun 2005 11:23:59 -0400, "Andrew H. Wakefield"
wrote:

"Gunner" wrote in message
news
snip of envy-producing post about a free machine!!

Whats the toggle switch under the plumbing cover for? Its labled
AC
Only in one position and DC only in the other? The big
AC/DCEP/DCEN
lever on the front usually does that job on most welders.

Gunner, this is probably a wild guess, but is there also an outlet
or two
under the cover for hooking up accessories? Could the switch be to
set the
outlets to DC instead of AC?? (I'm assuming from your post that
there *is*
an AC/DCEP/DCEN switch up on the main panel, right?)

By the way, if you want to drop it off at my house, I'll be glad to
figure
out all the switches and settings, and tell you all about how they
work. Of
course, it'll probably take me a few years to figure it all out,
but you can
wait, can't you?

Andy (green with envy)

G Im sorta kinda getting the hang of the machine operation. Some
odd quirks that took some fumbling around to figure out. I hung a
stinger on it this evening and tried it for stick welding. Damned
thing wouldnt strike an arc, until I flipped two switches and turned
off the gas flow timer..post flow IRRC. There is a toggle switch
below the digital readouts for preset/actual, and what it does is
allows you to set the output via the normal current start /percent
of
range knobs (yes..two of them..one of them allows you to start off
with a certain percentage of your preset maximum and it ramps up.

The preset/actual switch MUST be in actual to stick weld, but works
just dandy in either when tigging. Blink blink.
And that switch below the HF intensity doesnt do anything when
running
stick. The big AC/DCRP/DCSP handle changes things. Wierd

Btw...it welds beautifuly with stick G

Ive got a 50lb box of Certainium rod 5/16" big stuff..laid down a
beautiful weld. Didnt pop the breaker either at 150amps out, where
the
TIG at 125 will. Wierd. My Miller Idealarc 250 pops a breaker about
the same place. Wierd indeed.
Stuck a rod of 1/16" 7018 in it, cranked it down to 12 amps and
welded
up some .060 sheet metal..easy as pie. Im wondering if the pulsar
stuff will work with stick..might be interesting to try with HF
start
G

This thing appears to draw more power though than the Lincoln Tig
250/250 when doing the same weld with the same TIG /material.

I didnt put an ammeter on the input yet and find out, but I will.

You are more than welcome to come on over and use it.
G
Gunner, Bakersfield, California

"Considering the events of recent years,
the world has a long way to go to regain
its credibility and reputation with the US."
unknown

Yep, the pulser and start current will work with stick. Set the pulses
per second near the minimum and the duty cycle near the middle. Make
the foreground and background currents a lot different and you'll see
what the pulser does after you strike the arc...

On Mon, 20 Jun 2005 03:04:53 GMT, "Rick" wrote:


Yep, the pulser and start current will work with stick. Set the pulses
per second near the minimum and the duty cycle near the middle. Make
the foreground and background currents a lot different and you'll see
what the pulser does after you strike the arc...

AHHA! Somebody who knows Stuff! (doning brain picking garb)

Ok then...if you would be so kind as to sit over there and watch the
watch...you are getting sleepy...sleepy.....


If you would be so kind as to perhaps anzer a few kavestions aboot zis
mazhine....

Za controls on zis verdamnit mazhine are az follows.

Contactor Local/remote *obvious

Weld Current Local/remote *obvious

Crater Fill In/out *this keeps the HF going for some seconds after
releasing the pedal ????

Spot Time On/Off *?????
Spot Time Sec. .02-5

Start Current On/Off
Start Current (percentage of max. current on range selected) 0-100
* I know what it does..starts the arc at a certain amperage..but why?

Preset/Actual *changes the LED displays

Weld Current Percentage of Range Selected *big master knob amp
control- obvious

High 15-375 amps/ Low 5-125 Amps *obvious

AC Balance *scale goes 1 to 0 to -1 to -9
0-50/50 balance and DC Welding
-9 Max straight Polarity and Minimum Tungstun Heating
1 Max Reverse polarity cleaning


Pre-flow time 0-15 *obvious
Post flow time 10-60 *there is a click position at the bottom that
says Stick Weld (gas/water off) Obvious

Frequency P.P.S .02-10 *??

Pulsar (3 position) *???
Peak *arrow points up to Freq PPS and arrow pointing to
Pulse Width Percentage
Pulse *arrow points to Background current
Background

Background Current 0-100 *??

Pulse Width Percentage 10-90 *??


Can you give me a hint as to what they all mean...and some start
settings for aluminum?

I start going glassy eyed at AC Balance and goes completly clueless
on the pulsar stuff.
I think I got Balance figured out..thats how long the AC arc is on the
negative or positive side of the sine wave? 50% is even, 70% is 70%
heat, 30% cleaning and so forth?

I posted photos if they will help

http://photos.yahoo.com/gunnerasch4570


Thanks.

Zu may vake up now....SNAP!

Gunner

"Considering the events of recent years,
the world has a long way to go to regain
its credibility and reputation with the US."
unknown

"Gunner" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 20 Jun 2005 03:04:53 GMT, "Rick" wrote:


Yep, the pulser and start current will work with stick. Set the
pulses
per second near the minimum and the duty cycle near the middle.
Make
the foreground and background currents a lot different and you'll
see
what the pulser does after you strike the arc...

AHHA! Somebody who knows Stuff! (doning brain picking garb)

Ok then...if you would be so kind as to sit over there and watch the
watch...you are getting sleepy...sleepy.....


If you would be so kind as to perhaps anzer a few kavestions aboot
zis
mazhine....

Za controls on zis verdamnit mazhine are az follows.

Contactor Local/remote *obvious

Weld Current Local/remote *obvious

Crater Fill In/out *this keeps the HF going for some seconds
after
releasing the pedal ????

Spot Time On/Off *?????
Spot Time Sec. .02-5

Start Current On/Off
Start Current (percentage of max. current on range selected) 0-100
* I know what it does..starts the arc at a certain amperage..but
why?

Preset/Actual *changes the LED displays

Weld Current Percentage of Range Selected *big master knob amp
control- obvious

High 15-375 amps/ Low 5-125 Amps *obvious

AC Balance *scale goes 1 to 0 to -1 to -9
0-50/50 balance and DC Welding
-9 Max straight Polarity and Minimum Tungstun Heating
1 Max Reverse polarity cleaning


Pre-flow time 0-15 *obvious
Post flow time 10-60 *there is a click position at the bottom that
says Stick Weld (gas/water off) Obvious

Frequency P.P.S .02-10 *??

Pulsar (3 position) *???
Peak *arrow points up to Freq PPS and arrow pointing to
Pulse Width Percentage
Pulse *arrow points to Background current
Background

Background Current 0-100 *??

Pulse Width Percentage 10-90 *??


Can you give me a hint as to what they all mean...and some start
settings for aluminum?

I start going glassy eyed at AC Balance and goes completly clueless
on the pulsar stuff.
I think I got Balance figured out..thats how long the AC arc is on
the
negative or positive side of the sine wave? 50% is even, 70% is 70%
heat, 30% cleaning and so forth?

I posted photos if they will help

http://photos.yahoo.com/gunnerasch4570


Thanks.

Zu may vake up now....SNAP!

Gunner

"Considering the events of recent years,
the world has a long way to go to regain
its credibility and reputation with the US."
unknown

xray pretty much covered it.

"SPOT TIME" is for tig spot welding

"CRATER FILL" reduces the current gradually after your release the
foot pedal

"START CURRENT" gives you a higher current for a few seconds after the
arc is struck-better penetration . Works is stick mode too

Your machine is probably a newer version of mine. Same panel layout
but mine is white with black lettering. If you go to the Miller
website (www.millerwelds.com) you can download an owners manual for
one of their tig units and it will explain the similar controls.
There's also a TIG manual you might want to save.

Nice catch! I bought mine years ago at a DRMO auction for $190 and it
didn't have any accessories, so you did REALLY well!

On Mon, 20 Jun 2005 14:03:57 GMT, "Rick" wrote:


"Gunner" wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 20 Jun 2005 03:04:53 GMT, "Rick" wrote:


Yep, the pulser and start current will work with stick. Set the
pulses
per second near the minimum and the duty cycle near the middle.
Make
the foreground and background currents a lot different and you'll
see
what the pulser does after you strike the arc...

AHHA! Somebody who knows Stuff! (doning brain picking garb)

Ok then...if you would be so kind as to sit over there and watch the
watch...you are getting sleepy...sleepy.....


If you would be so kind as to perhaps anzer a few kavestions aboot
zis
mazhine....

Za controls on zis verdamnit mazhine are az follows.

Contactor Local/remote *obvious

Weld Current Local/remote *obvious

Crater Fill In/out *this keeps the HF going for some seconds
after
releasing the pedal ????

Spot Time On/Off *?????
Spot Time Sec. .02-5

Start Current On/Off
Start Current (percentage of max. current on range selected) 0-100
* I know what it does..starts the arc at a certain amperage..but
why?

Preset/Actual *changes the LED displays

Weld Current Percentage of Range Selected *big master knob amp
control- obvious

High 15-375 amps/ Low 5-125 Amps *obvious

AC Balance *scale goes 1 to 0 to -1 to -9
0-50/50 balance and DC Welding
-9 Max straight Polarity and Minimum Tungstun Heating
1 Max Reverse polarity cleaning


Pre-flow time 0-15 *obvious
Post flow time 10-60 *there is a click position at the bottom that
says Stick Weld (gas/water off) Obvious

Frequency P.P.S .02-10 *??

Pulsar (3 position) *???
Peak *arrow points up to Freq PPS and arrow pointing to
Pulse Width Percentage
Pulse *arrow points to Background current
Background

Background Current 0-100 *??

Pulse Width Percentage 10-90 *??


Can you give me a hint as to what they all mean...and some start
settings for aluminum?

I start going glassy eyed at AC Balance and goes completly clueless
on the pulsar stuff.
I think I got Balance figured out..thats how long the AC arc is on
the
negative or positive side of the sine wave? 50% is even, 70% is 70%
heat, 30% cleaning and so forth?

I posted photos if they will help

http://photos.yahoo.com/gunnerasch4570


Thanks.

Zu may vake up now....SNAP!

Gunner

"Considering the events of recent years,
the world has a long way to go to regain
its credibility and reputation with the US."
unknown

xray pretty much covered it.

"SPOT TIME" is for tig spot welding

How is tig spot welding done? Simply hold the electrode over the work
piece and hit the pedal? The timer kicks the arc off at the proper
time, or do you press the electrode to the work..assuming a larger
electrode?

"CRATER FILL" reduces the current gradually after your release the
foot pedal

"START CURRENT" gives you a higher current for a few seconds after the
arc is struck-better penetration . Works is stick mode too

Your machine is probably a newer version of mine. Same panel layout
but mine is white with black lettering. If you go to the Miller
website (www.millerwelds.com) you can download an owners manual for
one of their tig units and it will explain the similar controls.
There's also a TIG manual you might want to save.

Nice catch! I bought mine years ago at a DRMO auction for $190 and it
didn't have any accessories, so you did REALLY well!


I added the hose and cable hangers yesterday, thinking it was
appropriate to make my first project on the machine itself. I bent
the 3/8" bar stock in my compact bender for the ground and stinger
cables (I had to add a stinger and cable..but I have several extras)
and turned the torch hose stand out of aluminum round stock on the
lathe, bent the hose hanger on the compact bender then did all the
various bits of welding on the machine, then spray painted them with
black epoxy paint. My next project is to widen the wheel base of the
front wheel trolley, cause my welding shop has a dirt floor and is a
bit uneven as is the back 40, and while its likely to remain in one
spot for most of its use..its top heavy enough that Im afraid the old
bitch will fall over if I have to pull it out somewhere.
(2 hour intermission)
I just got back in from trying out some of the settings on some 1/8"
alum plate. I managed to get a decent butt weld on two of them..which
developed a hairline crack right down the middle of the weld line. No
filler was used. I take it that I have to always use filler with
aluminum, unlike steel? The next butt weld on the other side was with
filler and it didnt crack, though it looks pretty hokey..which is
strictly operator error. I get some black "soot" on the weld. Is this
the result of me burning the alum due to too much heat or something on
the filler rod? Pretty tough stuff to get off, had to use a SS wire
brush. Wow..there is a narrow heat range between getting a puddle
and melting a hole in the thin plate..much much more difficult to
judge than steel. Im still not sure what is the best settings to use
with the pulse stuff, though after you folks explainations..I can see
Stuff happening now.

Many thanks!

Gunner


Thanks much for the assistance. Ill have to delve into the pulse stuff
deeper as Im still a bit confused as to what and when and how.

"Considering the events of recent years,
the world has a long way to go to regain
its credibility and reputation with the US."
unknown

Gunner wrote:



I just got back in from trying out some of the settings on some 1/8"
alum plate. I managed to get a decent butt weld on two of them..which
developed a hairline crack right down the middle of the weld line. No
filler was used. I take it that I have to always use filler with
aluminum, unlike steel?

Yep. Most aluminums are characterised as being 'hot short'. Which is an
obtuse way of saying they really need to have filler added when being
welded. What rod are you using?

The next butt weld on the other side was with
filler and it didnt crack, though it looks pretty hokey..which is
strictly operator error. I get some black "soot" on the weld. Is this
the result of me burning the alum due to too much heat or something on
the filler rod?

Most likely cause of the soot is a dirty surface or a contaminated
tungsten. Surface and rod need to be cleancleanclean. Scratch clean with
stainless wire brush or scotchbrite or file, follow by an acetone wipe.
If the tungsten is contaminated, either from being dipped in the puddle,
touched by the filler rod or, my favourite, sucking up the blob of rod
you just deposited on the weld area, it'll need to be reground to fresh
tungsten.

Pretty tough stuff to get off, had to use a SS wire
brush. Wow..there is a narrow heat range between getting a puddle
and melting a hole in the thin plate..much much more difficult to
judge than steel. Im still not sure what is the best settings to use
with the pulse stuff, though after you folks explainations..I can see
Stuff happening now.

Other things to keep in mind. Keep Tungsten and filler rod about the
same thickness as the material you're welding (for thinner stuff). About
1 amp of current for thou of material thickness. (125 amps or so for
1/8") The closer you start with the max current setting the easier it is
to control things with the pedal. Trying to weld at 60 amps with the max
current at 250 amps is tougher than it needs to be.


--
__
Pete Snell
Royal Military College
Kingston Ontario


The reasonable man adapts himself to the world;
the unreasonable one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself.
Therefore all progress depends on the unreasonable man.
- George Bernard Shaw

On Fri, 24 Jun 2005 11:56:52 -0400, Pete Snell wrote:

Gunner wrote:



I just got back in from trying out some of the settings on some 1/8"
alum plate. I managed to get a decent butt weld on two of them..which
developed a hairline crack right down the middle of the weld line. No
filler was used. I take it that I have to always use filler with
aluminum, unlike steel?

Yep. Most aluminums are characterised as being 'hot short'. Which is an
obtuse way of saying they really need to have filler added when being
welded. What rod are you using?

The next butt weld on the other side was with
filler and it didnt crack, though it looks pretty hokey..which is
strictly operator error. I get some black "soot" on the weld. Is this
the result of me burning the alum due to too much heat or something on
the filler rod?

Most likely cause of the soot is a dirty surface or a contaminated
tungsten. Surface and rod need to be cleancleanclean. Scratch clean with
stainless wire brush or scotchbrite or file, follow by an acetone wipe.
If the tungsten is contaminated, either from being dipped in the puddle,
touched by the filler rod or, my favourite, sucking up the blob of rod
you just deposited on the weld area, it'll need to be reground to fresh
tungsten.

Pretty tough stuff to get off, had to use a SS wire
brush. Wow..there is a narrow heat range between getting a puddle
and melting a hole in the thin plate..much much more difficult to
judge than steel. Im still not sure what is the best settings to use
with the pulse stuff, though after you folks explainations..I can see
Stuff happening now.

Other things to keep in mind. Keep Tungsten and filler rod about the
same thickness as the material you're welding (for thinner stuff). About
1 amp of current for thou of material thickness. (125 amps or so for
1/8") The closer you start with the max current setting the easier it is
to control things with the pedal. Trying to weld at 60 amps with the max
current at 250 amps is tougher than it needs to be.


Thanks Pete. Im going to try again in the morning, now that Im back
off the road for the week. I realized Id been trying to weld with 2%
thoriated electrode...blush...so I picked up 2 sticks of 1.5%
Lanthanated per a remembered post of Ernies, one 3/32 and one 1/8"

Damn that stuff is expensive. (They were nice though and tossed in a
dozen pieces of N55 nickle filler rod to try on cast iron)

Ill let you know how it goes, and Thanks

Gunner

"Considering the events of recent years,
the world has a long way to go to regain
its credibility and reputation with the US."
unknown

On Sun, 26 Jun 2005 07:34:33 GMT, Gunner
wrote:

On Fri, 24 Jun 2005 11:56:52 -0400, Pete Snell wrote:

Gunner wrote:



I just got back in from trying out some of the settings on some 1/8"
alum plate. I managed to get a decent butt weld on two of them..which
developed a hairline crack right down the middle of the weld line. No
filler was used. I take it that I have to always use filler with
aluminum, unlike steel?

Yep. Most aluminums are characterised as being 'hot short'. Which is an
obtuse way of saying they really need to have filler added when being
welded. What rod are you using?

The next butt weld on the other side was with
filler and it didnt crack, though it looks pretty hokey..which is
strictly operator error. I get some black "soot" on the weld. Is this
the result of me burning the alum due to too much heat or something on
the filler rod?

Most likely cause of the soot is a dirty surface or a contaminated
tungsten. Surface and rod need to be cleancleanclean. Scratch clean with
stainless wire brush or scotchbrite or file, follow by an acetone wipe.
If the tungsten is contaminated, either from being dipped in the puddle,
touched by the filler rod or, my favourite, sucking up the blob of rod
you just deposited on the weld area, it'll need to be reground to fresh
tungsten.

Pretty tough stuff to get off, had to use a SS wire
brush. Wow..there is a narrow heat range between getting a puddle
and melting a hole in the thin plate..much much more difficult to
judge than steel. Im still not sure what is the best settings to use
with the pulse stuff, though after you folks explainations..I can see
Stuff happening now.

Other things to keep in mind. Keep Tungsten and filler rod about the
same thickness as the material you're welding (for thinner stuff). About
1 amp of current for thou of material thickness. (125 amps or so for
1/8") The closer you start with the max current setting the easier it is
to control things with the pedal. Trying to weld at 60 amps with the max
current at 250 amps is tougher than it needs to be.


Thanks Pete. Im going to try again in the morning, now that Im back
off the road for the week. I realized Id been trying to weld with 2%
thoriated electrode...blush...so I picked up 2 sticks of 1.5%
Lanthanated per a remembered post of Ernies, one 3/32 and one 1/8"

Damn that stuff is expensive. (They were nice though and tossed in a
dozen pieces of N55 nickle filler rod to try on cast iron)

Ill let you know how it goes, and Thanks

I actually got a couple decent aluminum butt welds this morning.
Looked right pretty and passed the vise and pipe wrench test. Now if
I can only figure out how to do a right angle joint...sigh...this is
hard to learn on my own. I can get a decent fillet going...and then
pooff..I get a burn through (1/8") plate and a big
hole...chuckle...this is gonna take some time.

But on the other hand...this is making my steel tig welds much much
nicer and I actually managed to weld two pieces of .05 sheet metal
butt welded together using the pulsar settings (which Im still trying
to figure out).

Many thanks!

Gunner

"Considering the events of recent years,
the world has a long way to go to regain
its credibility and reputation with the US."
unknown