On Mon, 20 Jun 2005 14:03:57 GMT, "Rick" wrote:
"Gunner" wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 20 Jun 2005 03:04:53 GMT, "Rick" wrote:
Yep, the pulser and start current will work with stick. Set the
pulses
per second near the minimum and the duty cycle near the middle.
Make
the foreground and background currents a lot different and you'll
see
what the pulser does after you strike the arc...
AHHA! Somebody who knows Stuff! (doning brain picking garb)
Ok then...if you would be so kind as to sit over there and watch the
watch...you are getting sleepy...sleepy.....
If you would be so kind as to perhaps anzer a few kavestions aboot
zis
mazhine....
Za controls on zis verdamnit mazhine are az follows.
Contactor Local/remote *obvious
Weld Current Local/remote *obvious
Crater Fill In/out *this keeps the HF going for some seconds
after
releasing the pedal ????
Spot Time On/Off *?????
Spot Time Sec. .02-5
Start Current On/Off
Start Current (percentage of max. current on range selected) 0-100
* I know what it does..starts the arc at a certain amperage..but
why?
Preset/Actual *changes the LED displays
Weld Current Percentage of Range Selected *big master knob amp
control- obvious
High 15-375 amps/ Low 5-125 Amps *obvious
AC Balance *scale goes 1 to 0 to -1 to -9
0-50/50 balance and DC Welding
-9 Max straight Polarity and Minimum Tungstun Heating
1 Max Reverse polarity cleaning
Pre-flow time 0-15 *obvious
Post flow time 10-60 *there is a click position at the bottom that
says Stick Weld (gas/water off) Obvious
Frequency P.P.S .02-10 *??
Pulsar (3 position) *???
Peak *arrow points up to Freq PPS and arrow pointing to
Pulse Width Percentage
Pulse *arrow points to Background current
Background
Background Current 0-100 *??
Pulse Width Percentage 10-90 *??
Can you give me a hint as to what they all mean...and some start
settings for aluminum?
I start going glassy eyed at AC Balance and goes completly clueless
on the pulsar stuff.
I think I got Balance figured out..thats how long the AC arc is on
the
negative or positive side of the sine wave? 50% is even, 70% is 70%
heat, 30% cleaning and so forth?
I posted photos if they will help
http://photos.yahoo.com/gunnerasch4570
Thanks.
Zu may vake up now....SNAP!
Gunner
"Considering the events of recent years,
the world has a long way to go to regain
its credibility and reputation with the US."
unknown
xray pretty much covered it.
"SPOT TIME" is for tig spot welding
How is tig spot welding done? Simply hold the electrode over the work
piece and hit the pedal? The timer kicks the arc off at the proper
time, or do you press the electrode to the work..assuming a larger
electrode?
"CRATER FILL" reduces the current gradually after your release the
foot pedal
"START CURRENT" gives you a higher current for a few seconds after the
arc is struck-better penetration . Works is stick mode too
Your machine is probably a newer version of mine. Same panel layout
but mine is white with black lettering. If you go to the Miller
website (www.millerwelds.com) you can download an owners manual for
one of their tig units and it will explain the similar controls.
There's also a TIG manual you might want to save.
Nice catch! I bought mine years ago at a DRMO auction for $190 and it
didn't have any accessories, so you did REALLY well!
I added the hose and cable hangers yesterday, thinking it was
appropriate to make my first project on the machine itself. I bent
the 3/8" bar stock in my compact bender for the ground and stinger
cables (I had to add a stinger and cable..but I have several extras)
and turned the torch hose stand out of aluminum round stock on the
lathe, bent the hose hanger on the compact bender then did all the
various bits of welding on the machine, then spray painted them with
black epoxy paint. My next project is to widen the wheel base of the
front wheel trolley, cause my welding shop has a dirt floor and is a
bit uneven as is the back 40, and while its likely to remain in one
spot for most of its use..its top heavy enough that Im afraid the old
bitch will fall over if I have to pull it out somewhere.
(2 hour intermission)
I just got back in from trying out some of the settings on some 1/8"
alum plate. I managed to get a decent butt weld on two of them..which
developed a hairline crack right down the middle of the weld line. No
filler was used. I take it that I have to always use filler with
aluminum, unlike steel? The next butt weld on the other side was with
filler and it didnt crack, though it looks pretty hokey..which is
strictly operator error. I get some black "soot" on the weld. Is this
the result of me burning the alum due to too much heat or something on
the filler rod? Pretty tough stuff to get off, had to use a SS wire
brush. Wow..there is a narrow heat range between getting a puddle
and melting a hole in the thin plate..much much more difficult to
judge than steel. Im still not sure what is the best settings to use
with the pulse stuff, though after you folks explainations..I can see
Stuff happening now.
Many thanks!
Gunner
Thanks much for the assistance. Ill have to delve into the pulse stuff
deeper as Im still a bit confused as to what and when and how.
"Considering the events of recent years,
the world has a long way to go to regain
its credibility and reputation with the US."
unknown