"Gunner" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 19 Jun 2005 11:23:59 -0400, "Andrew H. Wakefield"
wrote:

"Gunner" wrote in message
news
snip of envy-producing post about a free machine!!

Whats the toggle switch under the plumbing cover for? Its labled
AC
Only in one position and DC only in the other? The big
AC/DCEP/DCEN
lever on the front usually does that job on most welders.

Gunner, this is probably a wild guess, but is there also an outlet
or two
under the cover for hooking up accessories? Could the switch be to
set the
outlets to DC instead of AC?? (I'm assuming from your post that
there *is*
an AC/DCEP/DCEN switch up on the main panel, right?)

By the way, if you want to drop it off at my house, I'll be glad to
figure
out all the switches and settings, and tell you all about how they
work. Of
course, it'll probably take me a few years to figure it all out,
but you can
wait, can't you?

Andy (green with envy)

G Im sorta kinda getting the hang of the machine operation. Some
odd quirks that took some fumbling around to figure out. I hung a
stinger on it this evening and tried it for stick welding. Damned
thing wouldnt strike an arc, until I flipped two switches and turned
off the gas flow timer..post flow IRRC. There is a toggle switch
below the digital readouts for preset/actual, and what it does is
allows you to set the output via the normal current start /percent
of
range knobs (yes..two of them..one of them allows you to start off
with a certain percentage of your preset maximum and it ramps up.

The preset/actual switch MUST be in actual to stick weld, but works
just dandy in either when tigging. Blink blink.
And that switch below the HF intensity doesnt do anything when
running
stick. The big AC/DCRP/DCSP handle changes things. Wierd

Btw...it welds beautifuly with stick G

Ive got a 50lb box of Certainium rod 5/16" big stuff..laid down a
beautiful weld. Didnt pop the breaker either at 150amps out, where
the
TIG at 125 will. Wierd. My Miller Idealarc 250 pops a breaker about
the same place. Wierd indeed.
Stuck a rod of 1/16" 7018 in it, cranked it down to 12 amps and
welded
up some .060 sheet metal..easy as pie. Im wondering if the pulsar
stuff will work with stick..might be interesting to try with HF
start
G

This thing appears to draw more power though than the Lincoln Tig
250/250 when doing the same weld with the same TIG /material.

I didnt put an ammeter on the input yet and find out, but I will.

You are more than welcome to come on over and use it.
G
Gunner, Bakersfield, California

"Considering the events of recent years,
the world has a long way to go to regain
its credibility and reputation with the US."
unknown

Yep, the pulser and start current will work with stick. Set the pulses
per second near the minimum and the duty cycle near the middle. Make
the foreground and background currents a lot different and you'll see
what the pulser does after you strike the arc...