On Wed, 24 Sep 2003 08:34:53 -0500, "Mike Henry"
wrote:

Clausing will sell you a manual for $25:

http://www.clausing-industrial.com/service-std.htm

Call with a credit card and the mill S/N and you should have the manual in a
few days. Ask for a spare parts price list too (free, I think). They don'y
have many parts but do have some.

Credit card? What's that?


It's about 50 pages long and well worth the cost, IMHO. BTW, I have two of
these (actually an 8540 and an 8550). I'd rather sell the 2nd one (nearly)
complete, but let me know if you need any parts.

Ill unload it from the trailer in the morning and power it up. I was
told it was in perfect running order. I noticed its a bit hard
cranking the knee DOWN, but it was cutting brass before they surplused
it, so Id bet the gib is full of tiny brass chips. Ill pull the gib
and clean it out and see what happens.

Gunner


"Gunner" wrote in message
.. .
As I mentioned some time back, I managed to score a Clausing 8540
Horizontal mill from a shop in return for some labor..labor they were
not willing to pay cash for. Stripping down a number of old Bechler
screw machines into their component parts before the carcasses were sent
to scrap..

Ive got the beasty sitting in my trailer about 5 feet from me as I
typeG and its rather a beauty. My original goal when I first started
collecting Stuff, was to wind up with a shop full of decent machines, by
fixing and repairing, swapping upwards as my skill level and knowledge
grew. Ive got a long ways to go on my skill and knowledge, but the
hardware is coming along nicely. I no longer have to guess how much .005
on the dial really is, after the cut is made, because the machines are
no longer clapped out pieces of ****e. Well..some are..but Im still
working on the upgrades G

Anyone have a manual for this machine? I reckon I can figure it out, but
would like any documentation, with lube procedures, and types of lubes,
etc etc etc...the normal stuff a guy likes to have around for each
machine.

This is identical to my new mill
http://www.arcadianclock.com/workshop/clausing/

Btw.. I now have a Vernon Horizontal available for sale, with arbor and
perhaps a few cutters, for $400 OBO, and of course, the Rockwell
Horizontal, kit mill, that only needs to be put back together at $400

Gunner



"If I'm going to reach out to the the Democrats then I need a third
hand.There's no way I'm letting go of my wallet or my gun while they're
around."

"Democrat. In the dictionary it's right after demobilize and right
before demode` (out of fashion).
-Buddy Jordan 2001



"Anyone who cannot cope with firearms is not fully human. At best he
is a tolerable subhuman who has learned to wear shoes, bathe and not
make messes in the house."
With appologies to RAH..

"Gunner" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 24 Sep 2003 08:34:53 -0500, "Mike Henry"
wrote:

Clausing will sell you a manual for $25:

http://www.clausing-industrial.com/service-std.htm

Call with a credit card and the mill S/N and you should have the manual
in a
few days. Ask for a spare parts price list too (free, I think). They
don'y
have many parts but do have some.

Credit card? What's that?

Well, you could always call to get the price and mail them a check or MO.

It's about 50 pages long and well worth the cost, IMHO. BTW, I have two
of
these (actually an 8540 and an 8550). I'd rather sell the 2nd one
(nearly)
complete, but let me know if you need any parts.

Ill unload it from the trailer in the morning and power it up. I was
told it was in perfect running order. I noticed its a bit hard
cranking the knee DOWN, but it was cutting brass before they surplused
it, so Id bet the gib is full of tiny brass chips. Ill pull the gib
and clean it out and see what happens.

The Clausing manual reccomends SAE 20 oil at almost all the lube points -
the exceptions a

1) Fill the gear box at the rear of the column with SAE 140 Hypoid Extreme
Pressure oil until it runs out of the upper pipe plug hole
2) With the motor running and the vari-speed system set to low speed, fill
the oiler on the hydraulic cylinder with Shell Tellus 27
3) Lube the gears on the table feed gear box (you'll have to remove the
cover) twice a year with No. 1 consistency grease

You should also check out the hydraulic system, especially the sliding
pulleys. These are similar to the same type units on Clausing 5900-series
lathes and there is probably a bushing or sleeve on the hub between the
pulley halves that needs periodic replacement to avoid totally destroying
the pulley assembly. The assembly runs $1500 to replace from Clausing and
the bushing is only $20-25. You might be able to fabricate a replacement
from Delrin - I'm not sure but it looks like the spare for my 5900 from
Clausing is made of Delrin.

Mike


Gunner


"Gunner" wrote in message
.. .
As I mentioned some time back, I managed to score a Clausing 8540
Horizontal mill from a shop in return for some labor..labor they were
not willing to pay cash for. Stripping down a number of old Bechler
screw machines into their component parts before the carcasses were
sent
to scrap..

Ive got the beasty sitting in my trailer about 5 feet from me as I
typeG and its rather a beauty. My original goal when I first started
collecting Stuff, was to wind up with a shop full of decent machines,
by
fixing and repairing, swapping upwards as my skill level and knowledge
grew. Ive got a long ways to go on my skill and knowledge, but the
hardware is coming along nicely. I no longer have to guess how much
..005
on the dial really is, after the cut is made, because the machines are
no longer clapped out pieces of ****e. Well..some are..but Im still
working on the upgrades G

Anyone have a manual for this machine? I reckon I can figure it out,
but
would like any documentation, with lube procedures, and types of lubes,
etc etc etc...the normal stuff a guy likes to have around for each
machine.

This is identical to my new mill
http://www.arcadianclock.com/workshop/clausing/

Btw.. I now have a Vernon Horizontal available for sale, with arbor and
perhaps a few cutters, for $400 OBO, and of course, the Rockwell
Horizontal, kit mill, that only needs to be put back together at $400

Gunner



"If I'm going to reach out to the the Democrats then I need a third
hand.There's no way I'm letting go of my wallet or my gun while they're
around."

"Democrat. In the dictionary it's right after demobilize and right
before demode` (out of fashion).
-Buddy Jordan 2001



"Anyone who cannot cope with firearms is not fully human. At best he
is a tolerable subhuman who has learned to wear shoes, bathe and not
make messes in the house."
With appologies to RAH..

On Sat, 27 Sep 2003 12:13:10 -0500, "Mike Henry"
wrote:


"Gunner" wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 24 Sep 2003 08:34:53 -0500, "Mike Henry"
wrote:

Clausing will sell you a manual for $25:

http://www.clausing-industrial.com/service-std.htm

Call with a credit card and the mill S/N and you should have the manual
in a
few days. Ask for a spare parts price list too (free, I think). They
don'y
have many parts but do have some.

Credit card? What's that?

Well, you could always call to get the price and mail them a check or MO.

It's about 50 pages long and well worth the cost, IMHO. BTW, I have two
of
these (actually an 8540 and an 8550). I'd rather sell the 2nd one
(nearly)
complete, but let me know if you need any parts.

Ill unload it from the trailer in the morning and power it up. I was
told it was in perfect running order. I noticed its a bit hard
cranking the knee DOWN, but it was cutting brass before they surplused
it, so Id bet the gib is full of tiny brass chips. Ill pull the gib
and clean it out and see what happens.

The Clausing manual reccomends SAE 20 oil at almost all the lube points -
the exceptions a

1) Fill the gear box at the rear of the column with SAE 140 Hypoid Extreme
Pressure oil until it runs out of the upper pipe plug hole
2) With the motor running and the vari-speed system set to low speed, fill
the oiler on the hydraulic cylinder with Shell Tellus 27
3) Lube the gears on the table feed gear box (you'll have to remove the
cover) twice a year with No. 1 consistency grease

You should also check out the hydraulic system, especially the sliding
pulleys. These are similar to the same type units on Clausing 5900-series
lathes and there is probably a bushing or sleeve on the hub between the
pulley halves that needs periodic replacement to avoid totally destroying
the pulley assembly. The assembly runs $1500 to replace from Clausing and
the bushing is only $20-25. You might be able to fabricate a replacement
from Delrin - I'm not sure but it looks like the spare for my 5900 from
Clausing is made of Delrin.

Mike



Thanks Mike!

Say...does the manual say whats the proper procedure for lifting the
mill? Can I simply lanyard the two overarm supports and lift or do I
need to get a forklift and do it that way?

Im pondering the best way to do this without damaging anything..and
doubly gun shy since dropping the pantograph....shudder

Gunner


"Anyone who cannot cope with firearms is not fully human. At best he
is a tolerable subhuman who has learned to wear shoes, bathe and not
make messes in the house."
With appologies to RAH..

On Sat, 27 Sep 2003 17:06:51 -0500, Richard J Kinch
wrote:

Gunner writes:

Say...does the manual say whats the proper procedure for lifting the
mill? Can I simply lanyard the two overarm supports and lift or do I
need to get a forklift and do it that way?

Im pondering the best way to do this without damaging anything..and
doubly gun shy since dropping the pantograph....shudder

See my page:

http://www.truetex.com/moveclausing.htm

MANY thanks! That answered the questions very well.

Off to unload the mill..and will follow your instructions..including
the warnings.


Respects

Gunner


"Anyone who cannot cope with firearms is not fully human. At best he
is a tolerable subhuman who has learned to wear shoes, bathe and not
make messes in the house."
With appologies to RAH..

On Sat, 27 Sep 2003 23:04:47 GMT, Gunner
wrote:

On Sat, 27 Sep 2003 17:06:51 -0500, Richard J Kinch
wrote:

Gunner writes:

Say...does the manual say whats the proper procedure for lifting the
mill? Can I simply lanyard the two overarm supports and lift or do I
need to get a forklift and do it that way?

Im pondering the best way to do this without damaging anything..and
doubly gun shy since dropping the pantograph....shudder

See my page:

http://www.truetex.com/moveclausing.htm

MANY thanks! That answered the questions very well.

Off to unload the mill..and will follow your instructions..including
the warnings.



Sucess! I pulled the back cover off, retracted the over arms,
lanyarded them well, hoisted it up and out, and set it on my pallet
jack, which then moved it into my shop. I took a few moments to figure
out the controls, the back gear, removed the arbor and cleaned and
lubed everything, then applied power, and turned the old gal on.

Voila! Runs very quiet, though the variable drive is not operating
through the full range. Looking at the back of the lower variable
speed pully..it appears that someone may have applied three tubular
spaces to the back of the variable speed pully to prevent the pully
from ever going lower than about half speed. This is weird, or those
spacers are original and something else is buggered up.

If one of you 8540 owners gets a chance, would you look at your bottom
pully..and on the outboard end of the piston there is a big round
washer with a nylock nut on it. Under the big round washer..are there
three , 5/8" diam tubular spacers that prevent the pully from opening
up past a certain point? The belt will not travel into the center of
that pully, more than about 1/2 way, with those spacers there. They
prevent the pully gap from getting any bigger.

Power feed and back gear all work very well, and after a bit of
lubrication all the controls are free and smooth. I fired up a 4"
staggered tooth cutter and cut a slot in a piece of P-20 steel, while
in back gear. No chatter, but the spindle wont slow down enough for
proper speeds/feeds. I cranked it out of back gear, stuck in a block
of alum, ran the spindle at 2000 rpm, and feed of 13" in/min and made
a really nifty snow storm of shiny chips.

I had to pull the 4" milling vise off my Index mill, as the Clausing
didnt come with a vise, but it trammed in perfectly in all axis.
Checking the table itself, I had about .002 out of parallel in the
full 15" inches, but the gibscrews were left a bit loose, and front to
back was dead nuts in slope. I found that all my 30 taper tooling,
end mill holders, shell mill holders etc etc all fit as well. I read
on the Yahoo Clausing group some comments about other than Clausing 30
taper stuff not fitting..but everything, from the Gorton QC stuff to
the imported stuff fit perfectly.

I think Ive got a keeper here...G

Gunner


"Anyone who cannot cope with firearms is not fully human. At best he
is a tolerable subhuman who has learned to wear shoes, bathe and not
make messes in the house."
With appologies to RAH..

Gunner writes:

If one of you 8540 owners gets a chance, would you look at your bottom
pully..and on the outboard end of the piston there is a big round
washer with a nylock nut on it. Under the big round washer..are there
three , 5/8" diam tubular spacers that prevent the pully from opening
up past a certain point? The belt will not travel into the center of
that pully, more than about 1/2 way, with those spacers there. They
prevent the pully gap from getting any bigger.

I find the nut, washer, and one space about 3/4" long on there. Sounds
like yours is just set up to stop the pulley from adjusting out all the
way. Mine will bottom out the belt.

I assume you bled the hydraulics of air, and topped up the fluid, kind of
like auto brakes?

"Gunner" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 27 Sep 2003 23:04:47 GMT, Gunner
wrote:

snip

If one of you 8540 owners gets a chance, would you look at your bottom
pully..and on the outboard end of the piston there is a big round
washer with a nylock nut on it. Under the big round washer..are there
three , 5/8" diam tubular spacers that prevent the pully from opening
up past a certain point? The belt will not travel into the center of
that pully, more than about 1/2 way, with those spacers there. They
prevent the pully gap from getting any bigger.

The manual for my 5840 shows a cone lock nut, stepped spacer, single row
ball bearing (with 2 shields) bearing holder and then a cover for the
hydraulic housing. On the other side of the housing (cylinder?), there is a
another single row ball bearing (2 shields again) and a washer, both of
which appear to fit inside the hub on the slidiing pulley. I don't see any
of your 5/8" tubular spacers, but Clausing may have made revisions to the
design over the years. This is for mills with S/Ns from 80200 to 801282 -
is your S/N in that range?

Mike

snip

Mike Henry writes:

The manual for my 5840

[8540]

shows a cone lock nut, stepped spacer, single
row ball bearing (with 2 shields) bearing holder and then a cover for
the hydraulic housing. On the other side of the housing (cylinder?),
there is a another single row ball bearing (2 shields again) and a
washer, both of which appear to fit inside the hub on the slidiing
pulley. I don't see any of your 5/8" tubular spacers, but Clausing
may have made revisions to the design over the years. This is for
mills with S/Ns from 80200 to 801282 - is your S/N in that range?

[You mean 800200 to 801282 ?]

Wow, mine is S/N 800254. Is that really old?

I didn't really take it apart. I was just trying to compare it to Gunner's.
Maybe I have all the parts you describe.

On Tue, 30 Sep 2003 00:48:26 -0500, Richard J Kinch
wrote:

Mike Henry writes:

The manual for my 5840

[8540]

shows a cone lock nut, stepped spacer, single
row ball bearing (with 2 shields) bearing holder and then a cover for
the hydraulic housing. On the other side of the housing (cylinder?),
there is a another single row ball bearing (2 shields again) and a
washer, both of which appear to fit inside the hub on the slidiing
pulley. I don't see any of your 5/8" tubular spacers, but Clausing
may have made revisions to the design over the years. This is for
mills with S/Ns from 80200 to 801282 - is your S/N in that range?

[You mean 800200 to 801282 ?]

Wow, mine is S/N 800254. Is that really old?

I didn't really take it apart. I was just trying to compare it to Gunner's.
Maybe I have all the parts you describe.

Mine is # 800986

The square block is the hydraulic cylinder with the hose sticking out
of the top. Behind this block (away from the machine) is those three
spacers, then a round disk (perhaps the bearings), and then the nylock
nut. I suspect that two of the spacers are on anti-rotation dowels,
and the center one is over the shaft that runs through the block and
connects to the sliding pulley. They are located at 12 and 6 O clock.
Does the print show sliding dowels at those locations?

I guess Im simply gonna have to take the thing apart and see what
happens with the spacers removed.

Gunner


Gunner

"People are more violently opposed to fur than leather,
because it is easier to harrass rich women
than it is motorcycle gangs." - Bumper Sticker

"Gunner" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 30 Sep 2003 00:48:26 -0500, Richard J Kinch
wrote:

Mike Henry writes:

The manual for my 5840

[8540]

shows a cone lock nut, stepped spacer, single
row ball bearing (with 2 shields) bearing holder and then a cover for
the hydraulic housing. On the other side of the housing (cylinder?),
there is a another single row ball bearing (2 shields again) and a
washer, both of which appear to fit inside the hub on the slidiing
pulley. I don't see any of your 5/8" tubular spacers, but Clausing
may have made revisions to the design over the years. This is for
mills with S/Ns from 80200 to 801282 - is your S/N in that range?

[You mean 800200 to 801282 ?]

Wow, mine is S/N 800254. Is that really old?

I didn't really take it apart. I was just trying to compare it to
Gunner's.
Maybe I have all the parts you describe.

Mine is # 800986

Good, then the drawing I have applies to your mill.

The square block is the hydraulic cylinder with the hose sticking out
of the top. Behind this block (away from the machine) is those three
spacers, then a round disk (perhaps the bearings), and then the nylock
nut. I suspect that two of the spacers are on anti-rotation dowels,
and the center one is over the shaft that runs through the block and
connects to the sliding pulley. They are located at 12 and 6 O clock.
Does the print show sliding dowels at those locations?

That doesn't sound like what the darwing shows, but I ma be
misunderstanding. I'm emailing you a scan of the drawing in PDF format.
Please let me know if you get it - I didn't get a reply to a previous email
on this subject. If you don't get this email I'll upload the scan to the
dropbox.

Mike


I guess Im simply gonna have to take the thing apart and see what
happens with the spacers removed.

Gunner


Gunner

"People are more violently opposed to fur than leather,
because it is easier to harrass rich women
than it is motorcycle gangs." - Bumper Sticker

Gunner - sent a reply to your message below here and another with more indfo
to you directly in email. Did you see either?

My newsfeed isn't displaying my reply so I'm wondering if it got lost and I
suspect that the email may not be getting to you, especially if you have MSN
accounts blocked.

"Gunner" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 30 Sep 2003 00:48:26 -0500, Richard J Kinch
wrote:

Mike Henry writes:

The manual for my 5840

[8540]

shows a cone lock nut, stepped spacer, single
row ball bearing (with 2 shields) bearing holder and then a cover for
the hydraulic housing. On the other side of the housing (cylinder?),
there is a another single row ball bearing (2 shields again) and a
washer, both of which appear to fit inside the hub on the slidiing
pulley. I don't see any of your 5/8" tubular spacers, but Clausing
may have made revisions to the design over the years. This is for
mills with S/Ns from 80200 to 801282 - is your S/N in that range?

[You mean 800200 to 801282 ?]

Wow, mine is S/N 800254. Is that really old?

I didn't really take it apart. I was just trying to compare it to
Gunner's.
Maybe I have all the parts you describe.

Mine is # 800986

The square block is the hydraulic cylinder with the hose sticking out
of the top. Behind this block (away from the machine) is those three
spacers, then a round disk (perhaps the bearings), and then the nylock
nut. I suspect that two of the spacers are on anti-rotation dowels,
and the center one is over the shaft that runs through the block and
connects to the sliding pulley. They are located at 12 and 6 O clock.
Does the print show sliding dowels at those locations?

I guess Im simply gonna have to take the thing apart and see what
happens with the spacers removed.

Gunner


Gunner

"People are more violently opposed to fur than leather,
because it is easier to harrass rich women
than it is motorcycle gangs." - Bumper Sticker

On Tue, 30 Sep 2003 23:13:14 -0500, "Mike Henry"
wrote:

Gunner - sent a reply to your message below here and another with more indfo
to you directly in email. Did you see either?

My newsfeed isn't displaying my reply so I'm wondering if it got lost and I
suspect that the email may not be getting to you, especially if you have MSN
accounts blocked.

Nope..never got a thing

Try gunnerasch at myway dot com

and deepest gratitude for going to this extent to help.

Gunner


"Gunner" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 30 Sep 2003 00:48:26 -0500, Richard J Kinch
wrote:

Mike Henry writes:

The manual for my 5840

[8540]

shows a cone lock nut, stepped spacer, single
row ball bearing (with 2 shields) bearing holder and then a cover for
the hydraulic housing. On the other side of the housing (cylinder?),
there is a another single row ball bearing (2 shields again) and a
washer, both of which appear to fit inside the hub on the slidiing
pulley. I don't see any of your 5/8" tubular spacers, but Clausing
may have made revisions to the design over the years. This is for
mills with S/Ns from 80200 to 801282 - is your S/N in that range?

[You mean 800200 to 801282 ?]

Wow, mine is S/N 800254. Is that really old?

I didn't really take it apart. I was just trying to compare it to
Gunner's.
Maybe I have all the parts you describe.

Mine is # 800986

The square block is the hydraulic cylinder with the hose sticking out
of the top. Behind this block (away from the machine) is those three
spacers, then a round disk (perhaps the bearings), and then the nylock
nut. I suspect that two of the spacers are on anti-rotation dowels,
and the center one is over the shaft that runs through the block and
connects to the sliding pulley. They are located at 12 and 6 O clock.
Does the print show sliding dowels at those locations?

I guess Im simply gonna have to take the thing apart and see what
happens with the spacers removed.

Gunner


Gunner

"People are more violently opposed to fur than leather,
because it is easier to harrass rich women
than it is motorcycle gangs." - Bumper Sticker


Cum catapultae proscriptae erunt tum soli proscript catapultas habebunt.

"Gunner" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 30 Sep 2003 23:13:14 -0500, "Mike Henry"
wrote:

Gunner - sent a reply to your message below here and another with more
indfo
to you directly in email. Did you see either?

My newsfeed isn't displaying my reply so I'm wondering if it got lost and
I
suspect that the email may not be getting to you, especially if you have
MSN
accounts blocked.

Nope..never got a thing

Try gunnerasch at myway dot com

and deepest gratitude for going to this extent to help.

OK - sent off a couple of files this morning to your "myway" account, so you
should have them by now. Let me know if they never showed up and I'll
upload them to the drop box.

Mike


Gunner


"Gunner" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 30 Sep 2003 00:48:26 -0500, Richard J Kinch
wrote:

Mike Henry writes:

The manual for my 5840

[8540]

shows a cone lock nut, stepped spacer, single
row ball bearing (with 2 shields) bearing holder and then a cover
for
the hydraulic housing. On the other side of the housing
(cylinder?),
there is a another single row ball bearing (2 shields again) and a
washer, both of which appear to fit inside the hub on the slidiing
pulley. I don't see any of your 5/8" tubular spacers, but Clausing
may have made revisions to the design over the years. This is for
mills with S/Ns from 80200 to 801282 - is your S/N in that range?

[You mean 800200 to 801282 ?]

Wow, mine is S/N 800254. Is that really old?

I didn't really take it apart. I was just trying to compare it to
Gunner's.
Maybe I have all the parts you describe.

Mine is # 800986

The square block is the hydraulic cylinder with the hose sticking out
of the top. Behind this block (away from the machine) is those three
spacers, then a round disk (perhaps the bearings), and then the nylock
nut. I suspect that two of the spacers are on anti-rotation dowels,
and the center one is over the shaft that runs through the block and
connects to the sliding pulley. They are located at 12 and 6 O clock.
Does the print show sliding dowels at those locations?

I guess Im simply gonna have to take the thing apart and see what
happens with the spacers removed.

Gunner


Gunner

"People are more violently opposed to fur than leather,
because it is easier to harrass rich women
than it is motorcycle gangs." - Bumper Sticker


Cum catapultae proscriptae erunt tum soli proscript catapultas habebunt.

"Gunner" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 1 Oct 2003 17:25:37 -0500, "Mike Henry"
wrote:


"Gunner" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 30 Sep 2003 23:13:14 -0500, "Mike Henry"
wrote:

Gunner - sent a reply to your message below here and another with more
indfo
to you directly in email. Did you see either?

My newsfeed isn't displaying my reply so I'm wondering if it got lost
and
I
suspect that the email may not be getting to you, especially if you
have
MSN
accounts blocked.

Nope..never got a thing

Try gunnerasch at myway dot com

and deepest gratitude for going to this extent to help.

OK - sent off a couple of files this morning to your "myway" account, so
you
should have them by now. Let me know if they never showed up and I'll
upload them to the drop box.
Oh way cool. The cover 122-125 is missing, and what Im seeing must be
the two pistons. There still is something in there though that keeps the
sliding half of that pulley from opening up completely. ..ie the belt
moving closer to the axle I think someone put a spacer over the bolt,
and thats thats keeping it from moving that last little bit.
. This really helped me a lot!

Many many thanks!

Glad to help. You probably don't need the cover, but it's only a couple of
bucks from Clausing. It's kind of odd how some parts seem dirt cheap and
others more than the whole tool is worth. FWIW, that manual page doesn't
show it, but there might well be (or supposed to be) a bushing or sleeve
that fits inside the sliding pulley. The hub on the stationary pulley fits
into this sleeve and I believe that Clausing recommends that the sleeve be
bored in-place to fit the hub. If you are going to disassemble the pulley
it would be a *real* *good* idea to check the condition of the
bushing/sleeve as well as the key and keyway. Probably be a good idea to
check them even if you don't plan to pull the pulley. Failure there will
create a major problem in short order.

BTW, it seems that at least some of the vari-speed parts are interchangeable
with the 5900-series lathe and many of the knee/table parts are
interchangeable with the 8530 vertical knee mill. Might come in handy if
you need parts for those two susbsytems or decide to part yours out.


Gunner

Cum catapultae proscriptae erunt tum soli proscript catapultas habebunt.

On Thu, 2 Oct 2003 18:29:58 -0500, "Mike Henry"
wrote:


"Gunner" wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 1 Oct 2003 17:25:37 -0500, "Mike Henry"
wrote:


"Gunner" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 30 Sep 2003 23:13:14 -0500, "Mike Henry"
wrote:

Gunner - sent a reply to your message below here and another with more
indfo
to you directly in email. Did you see either?

My newsfeed isn't displaying my reply so I'm wondering if it got lost
and
I
suspect that the email may not be getting to you, especially if you
have
MSN
accounts blocked.

Nope..never got a thing

Try gunnerasch at myway dot com

and deepest gratitude for going to this extent to help.

OK - sent off a couple of files this morning to your "myway" account, so
you
should have them by now. Let me know if they never showed up and I'll
upload them to the drop box.
Oh way cool. The cover 122-125 is missing, and what Im seeing must be
the two pistons. There still is something in there though that keeps the
sliding half of that pulley from opening up completely. ..ie the belt
moving closer to the axle I think someone put a spacer over the bolt,
and thats thats keeping it from moving that last little bit.
. This really helped me a lot!

Many many thanks!

Glad to help. You probably don't need the cover, but it's only a couple of
bucks from Clausing. It's kind of odd how some parts seem dirt cheap and
others more than the whole tool is worth. FWIW, that manual page doesn't
show it, but there might well be (or supposed to be) a bushing or sleeve
that fits inside the sliding pulley. The hub on the stationary pulley fits
into this sleeve and I believe that Clausing recommends that the sleeve be
bored in-place to fit the hub. If you are going to disassemble the pulley
it would be a *real* *good* idea to check the condition of the
bushing/sleeve as well as the key and keyway. Probably be a good idea to
check them even if you don't plan to pull the pulley. Failure there will
create a major problem in short order.

BTW, it seems that at least some of the vari-speed parts are interchangeable
with the 5900-series lathe and many of the knee/table parts are
interchangeable with the 8530 vertical knee mill. Might come in handy if
you need parts for those two susbsytems or decide to part yours out.

This mill is far too minty to ever consider parting out, at least not
for another 50 yrs. Everything works absolutly perfectly with minimal
wear on anything. The only issue is getting below a certain rpm on the
varidrive, and Ill address this over the weekend.

The Hardinge TM mill that I scounged, will be picked up next week after
I weld my trailer back together, and that one will be a problem child,
as I so far have not been able to round up all the parts that were
removed by the owner, so it may wind up being parted out. I dont think
Ive ever seen a TM parts machine before, to get parts from. Shrug..and
this one is damned nice, but missing odd bits.

Gunner

Cum catapultae proscriptae erunt tum soli proscript catapultas habebunt.