Hi Gary, hope you are having a nice day

On 11-Mar-05 At About 22:25:04, Gary Stone wrote to Gary Stone
Subject: Furnace cycling

GS From: "Gary Stone"

GS Hi, I've got a forced air propane furnace, Luxaire model GSU082MF
GS Series NAGOE (could be a Q) serial #1310002 Controlled by a Honeywell
GS T87F heat only thermostat. This morning I was down in the basement
GS and noticed that it had the initial ignition then that cut off after
GS a while (normal burn) then a couple of minutes later a second
GS ignition which ran a couple of minutes, when that cut off I headed
GS up the stairs only to hear it kick in a third time for a couple
GS of minutes. Total time for this was about 10 to 13 minutes. Before
GS I went down there I had moved the thermostat only to the point which
GS it kicked in, 60º F from 58º F so, it wasn't that drastic a jump.
GS Yeah, I like it on the cool side. The outside temp was 19º F. I do
GS not remember it ever acting in this manner and suspect there might
GS be a problem, Yes? No? Thanks for any input.

GS Stone

have you moved or made any adjustments to the thermostat? if not it could be
a sign of unit failure coming. Do you have normal maintenance done? if not
it may be time to have it cleaned and tuned.


-= HvacTech2 =-


... "Curiosity killed the cat, but for a while I was a suspect."- s.w.

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Hi Scootz, hope you are having a nice day

On 11-Mar-05 At About 22:59:49, Scootz wrote to All
Subject: Furnace cycling

S From: Scootz

S pop the cover off the thermostsat and check the ht
S antcipator setting. little dial in the center with a pointer on
S it set it to .6 and try it again. if this is set wrong it
S generates heat and fools the stat into thinking the room temp is
S satisfied.

If he didn't adjust it previously all this will do is make matters worse.

-= HvacTech2 =-


... "After they make styrofoam, what do they ship it in?" - s.w.

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Hi William, hope you are having a nice day

On 11-Mar-05 At About 23:11:13, William W. Plummer wrote to All
Subject: Furnace cycling

WWP From: "William W. Plummer"

WWP Gary Stone wrote:


WWP My guess is the "stack cutoff" sensor is bad. The idea is that
WWP shortly after the ignition goes on, the gas should lite and heat up
WWP the stack. If it doesn't, the ignition will be killed. But after
WWP several tries, it gets warm enough to stay on. Maybe the cold
WWP outside temp has something to do with it.

This is not the way ignition occurs. the way a pilot is sensed is called
flame rectification. the only thing that comes close to what you are saying
is the limit switch which has a totally different purpose.

WWP The sensor probably needs to be replaced. It's a safety-related item
WWP and the repair should be done by a licensed professional.

this is true of any safety device such as the limit.

-= HvacTech2 =-


... "Everywhere is walking distance if you have the time." - s.w.

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Hi Gary, hope you are having a nice day

On 12-Mar-05 At About 00:00:44, Gary Stone wrote to Gary Stone
Subject: Furnace cycling

GS From: "Gary Stone"


GS Ok, I looked at that slider (Heat Anticipator) in the stat and it is
GS set at 5 should I set it higer or lower? Scootz suggested 6.

Don't move it. it is set at a particular point for good control of the temp
swing.


-= HvacTech2 =-


... "I like to reminisce with people I don't know." - s.w.

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Hi, I've got a forced air propane furnace, Luxaire model GSU082MF Series
NAGOE (could be a Q) serial #1310002
Controlled by a Honeywell T87F heat only thermostat. This morning I was down
in the basement and noticed that it had the initial ignition then that cut
off after a while (normal burn) then a couple of minutes later a second
ignition which ran a couple of minutes, when that cut off I headed up the
stairs only to hear it kick in a third time for a couple of minutes. Total
time for this was about 10 to 13 minutes. Before I went down there I had
moved the thermostat only to the point which it kicked in, 60º F from 58º F
so, it wasn't that drastic a jump. Yeah, I like it on the cool side. The
outside temp was 19º F. I do not remember it ever acting in this manner and
suspect there might be a problem, Yes? No? Thanks for any input.

Stone

On Sat, 12 Mar 2005 08:25:04 -0500, "Gary Stone" wrote:

Hi, I've got a forced air propane furnace, Luxaire model GSU082MF Series
NAGOE (could be a Q) serial #1310002
Controlled by a Honeywell T87F heat only thermostat. This morning I was down
in the basement and noticed that it had the initial ignition then that cut
off after a while (normal burn) then a couple of minutes later a second
ignition which ran a couple of minutes, when that cut off I headed up the
stairs only to hear it kick in a third time for a couple of minutes. Total
time for this was about 10 to 13 minutes. Before I went down there I had
moved the thermostat only to the point which it kicked in, 60º F from 58º F
so, it wasn't that drastic a jump. Yeah, I like it on the cool side. The
outside temp was 19º F. I do not remember it ever acting in this manner and
suspect there might be a problem, Yes? No? Thanks for any input.

Stone

pop the cover off the thermostsat and check the ht antcipator setting.
little dial in the center with a pointer on it set it to .6 and try
it again. if this is set wrong it generates heat and fools the stat
into thinking the room temp is satisfied.


---------------------------------------------------

Scootz

Gary Stone wrote:

Hi, I've got a forced air propane furnace, Luxaire model GSU082MF Series
NAGOE (could be a Q) serial #1310002
Controlled by a Honeywell T87F heat only thermostat. This morning I was
down in the basement and noticed that it had the initial ignition then
that cut off after a while (normal burn) then a couple of minutes later a
second
ignition which ran a couple of minutes, when that cut off I headed up the
stairs only to hear it kick in a third time for a couple of minutes. Total
time for this was about 10 to 13 minutes. Before I went down there I had
moved the thermostat only to the point which it kicked in, 60 F from 58
F so, it wasn't that drastic a jump. Yeah, I like it on the cool side. The
outside temp was 19 F. I do not remember it ever acting in this manner
and suspect there might be a problem, Yes? No? Thanks for any input.

Stone

I'm no expert, but here's my $0.02. Seems like your thermostat has lost the
normal hysteresis that prevents this problem. There's a slide-wire heater
in the thermostat called an anticipator. Try moving the slide slightly to
clean up a poor contact.

Another possibility: did you relocate the 'stat or rearrange furniture such
that it is now in a strong airstream from a register?

If all else fails, buy another furnace or move.

Roby

3 cycles in 10-13 minutes is to short, you never heat up the unit fully
for full efficiency and put extra wear on the unit. Your thermostat
should have an anticipator or heat rise setting to allow for longer
cycles. I personaly go for the longest cycle till I find the cool down
period uncomfortable, giving the most efficiency and least startup-cycle
wear. If you have a thermostat manual it will outline settings or
someone here will walk you through it. If that doesnt fix it , its
repair man time.

Did the blower come on at any point?

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"Gary Stone" wrote in message
...
Hi, I've got a forced air propane furnace, Luxaire model GSU082MF Series
NAGOE (could be a Q) serial #1310002
Controlled by a Honeywell T87F heat only thermostat. This morning I was down
in the basement and noticed that it had the initial ignition then that cut
off after a while (normal burn) then a couple of minutes later a second
ignition which ran a couple of minutes, when that cut off I headed up the
stairs only to hear it kick in a third time for a couple of minutes. Total
time for this was about 10 to 13 minutes. Before I went down there I had
moved the thermostat only to the point which it kicked in, 60º F from 58º F
so, it wasn't that drastic a jump. Yeah, I like it on the cool side. The
outside temp was 19º F. I do not remember it ever acting in this manner and
suspect there might be a problem, Yes? No? Thanks for any input.

Stone

Gary Stone wrote:

Hi, I've got a forced air propane furnace, Luxaire model GSU082MF Series
NAGOE (could be a Q) serial #1310002
Controlled by a Honeywell T87F heat only thermostat. This morning I was down
in the basement and noticed that it had the initial ignition then that cut
off after a while (normal burn) then a couple of minutes later a second
ignition which ran a couple of minutes, when that cut off I headed up the
stairs only to hear it kick in a third time for a couple of minutes. Total
time for this was about 10 to 13 minutes. Before I went down there I had
moved the thermostat only to the point which it kicked in, 60º F from 58º F
so, it wasn't that drastic a jump. Yeah, I like it on the cool side. The
outside temp was 19º F. I do not remember it ever acting in this manner and
suspect there might be a problem, Yes? No? Thanks for any input.

My guess is the "stack cutoff" sensor is bad. The idea is that shortly
after the ignition goes on, the gas should lite and heat up the stack.
If it doesn't, the ignition will be killed. But after several tries,
it gets warm enough to stay on. Maybe the cold outside temp has
something to do with it.

The sensor probably needs to be replaced. It's a safety-related item
and the repair should be done by a licensed professional.

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
.. .
Did the blower come on at any point?

And if it does???? and if it does'nt???? Why not give some
information/corrective action or a fix that goes with each answer--You're
leaving the guy high and dry with no where to go with those type of
comments.
MLD
--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"Gary Stone" wrote in message
...
Hi, I've got a forced air propane furnace, Luxaire model GSU082MF Series
NAGOE (could be a Q) serial #1310002
Controlled by a Honeywell T87F heat only thermostat. This morning I was
down
in the basement and noticed that it had the initial ignition then that cut
off after a while (normal burn) then a couple of minutes later a second
ignition which ran a couple of minutes, when that cut off I headed up the
stairs only to hear it kick in a third time for a couple of minutes. Total
time for this was about 10 to 13 minutes. Before I went down there I had
moved the thermostat only to the point which it kicked in, 60º F from 58º
F
so, it wasn't that drastic a jump. Yeah, I like it on the cool side. The
outside temp was 19º F. I do not remember it ever acting in this manner
and
suspect there might be a problem, Yes? No? Thanks for any input.

Stone

"m Ransley" wrote in message
...
3 cycles in 10-13 minutes is to short, you never heat up the unit fully
for full efficiency and put extra wear on the unit. Your thermostat
should have an anticipator or heat rise setting to allow for longer
cycles. I personaly go for the longest cycle till I find the cool down
period uncomfortable, giving the most efficiency and least startup-cycle
wear. If you have a thermostat manual it will outline settings or
someone here will walk you through it. If that doesnt fix it , its
repair man time.


Ok, I looked at that slider (Heat Anticipator) in the stat and it is set at
5 should I set it higer or lower? Scootz suggested 6.

Stone

"Gary Stone" wrote in message
...

"m Ransley" wrote in message
...
3 cycles in 10-13 minutes is to short, you never heat up the unit fully
for full efficiency and put extra wear on the unit. Your thermostat
should have an anticipator or heat rise setting to allow for longer
cycles. I personaly go for the longest cycle till I find the cool down
period uncomfortable, giving the most efficiency and least startup-cycle
wear. If you have a thermostat manual it will outline settings or
someone here will walk you through it. If that doesnt fix it , its
repair man time.


Ok, I looked at that slider (Heat Anticipator) in the stat and it is set
at 5 should I set it higer or lower? Scootz suggested 6.

Stone
OK, I tried moving it from 5 to 6 (Heat anticipator) and the burner kicked
in 4 times during the cycle. Well, I came back upstairs and turned the stat
down, didn't want to see if it would kick in again.

Stone

Hi Gary, hope you are having a nice day

On 12-Mar-05 At About 01:27:53, Gary Stone wrote to Gary Stone
Subject: Furnace cycling

GS From: "Gary Stone"

GS "HvacTech2" wrote in message
GS ...
Hi Gary, hope you are having a nice day

On 11-Mar-05 At About 22:25:04, Gary Stone wrote to Gary Stone
Subject: Furnace cycling

GS From: "Gary Stone"

GS Hi, I've got a forced air propane furnace, Luxaire model GSU082MF
GS Series NAGOE (could be a Q) serial #1310002 Controlled by a Honeywell
GS T87F heat only thermostat. This morning I was down in the basement
GS and noticed that it had the initial ignition then that cut off after
GS a while (normal burn) then a couple of minutes later a second
GS ignition which ran a couple of minutes, when that cut off I headed
GS up the stairs only to hear it kick in a third time for a couple
GS of minutes. Total time for this was about 10 to 13 minutes. Before
GS I went down there I had moved the thermostat only to the point which
GS it kicked in, 60º F from 58º F so, it wasn't that drastic a jump.
GS Yeah, I like it on the cool side. The outside temp was 19º F. I do
GS not remember it ever acting in this manner and suspect there might
GS be a problem, Yes? No? Thanks for any input.

GS Stone

have you moved or made any adjustments to the thermostat? if not it
could be a sign of unit failure coming. Do you have normal
maintenance done? if not it may be time to have it cleaned and tuned.

-= HvacTech2 =-

GS Had it cleaned about this time last year and he did adjust the
GS thermostat, I don't know what he did there but he did say the furnace
GS was in good shape and that he set the thermostat to a 1º something
GS or other, mean anything to you? I did try to move the HA setting
GS on Sctooz advise from 5 to 6 but moved it back to 5 as the burner
GS kicked in 4 times at 6. Well, I turned the stat down, didn't want
GS to try for a 5th. I know it's wasting propane but is it presenting
GS a fire hazard? When you say "Unit Failure" do you mean the
GS thermostat or the furnace?

I can't check it for sure since I am not there but it sounds like the unit
needs to be checked and cleaned. the thermostat is probably fine.



-= HvacTech2 =-


... "I'm moving to Mars next week, so if you have any boxes..."- s.w.

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Hi Gary, hope you are having a nice day

On 12-Mar-05 At About 02:32:47, Gary Stone wrote to Gary Stone
Subject: Furnace cycling

GS From: "Gary Stone"


If he didn't adjust it previously all this will do is make matters
worse.

-= HvacTech2 =-

GS Thanks Scootz, HvacTech2 is correct, I did try that and it cycled 4
GS times before I turned the stat down.

You have to be careful about following any advice given in a NG as some well
meaning people can cause more problems than you had to start with. changing
the anticipator could actually burn up the thermostat if done wrong.



-= HvacTech2 =-


... "Sometimes I... No, I don't." - s.w.

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"HvacTech2" wrote in message
...


Hi Gary, hope you are having a nice day

On 11-Mar-05 At About 22:25:04, Gary Stone wrote to Gary Stone
Subject: Furnace cycling

GS From: "Gary Stone"

GS Hi, I've got a forced air propane furnace, Luxaire model GSU082MF
GS Series NAGOE (could be a Q) serial #1310002 Controlled by a Honeywell
GS T87F heat only thermostat. This morning I was down in the basement
GS and noticed that it had the initial ignition then that cut off after
GS a while (normal burn) then a couple of minutes later a second
GS ignition which ran a couple of minutes, when that cut off I headed
GS up the stairs only to hear it kick in a third time for a couple
GS of minutes. Total time for this was about 10 to 13 minutes. Before
GS I went down there I had moved the thermostat only to the point which
GS it kicked in, 60º F from 58º F so, it wasn't that drastic a jump.
GS Yeah, I like it on the cool side. The outside temp was 19º F. I do
GS not remember it ever acting in this manner and suspect there might
GS be a problem, Yes? No? Thanks for any input.

GS Stone

have you moved or made any adjustments to the thermostat? if not it could
be
a sign of unit failure coming. Do you have normal maintenance done? if not
it may be time to have it cleaned and tuned.


-= HvacTech2 =-

Had it cleaned about this time last year and he did adjust the thermostat, I
don't know what he did there but he did say the furnace was in good shape
and that he set the thermostat to a 1º something or other, mean anything to
you? I did try to move the HA setting on Sctooz advise from 5 to 6 but moved
it back to 5 as the burner kicked in 4 times at 6. Well, I turned the stat
down, didn't want to try for a 5th. I know it's wasting propane but is it
presenting a fire hazard? When you say "Unit Failure" do you mean the
thermostat or the furnace?

Thanks
Stone

This is not the way ignition occurs. the way a pilot is sensed is
called flame rectification. the only thing that comes close to what
you are saying is the limit switch which has a totally different
purpose.

The sensor probably needs to be replaced. It's a safety-related item
and the repair should be done by a licensed professional.

this is true of any safety device such as the limit.


Hi, I agree with William and HvacTech2

I had the same kind of problem this fall, and I can tell you that the source
of the problem might not be obvious at all for a non professional.

In my case, the problem was at the furnace level.
The gas valve was defective and letting too much gas being burned, which
made the furnace overheat, and thus the limit switch (I am not sure it is
the correct name, it is the dial with 3 tabs) was shutting down the gas
burning when the temperature was too high, then the temperature would lower
and the switch would let the gas burning resume, and on and on...

Here is a forum with people that are friendly and willing to help you
pinpoint the source of your problem, if that is really what you want. I had
started a thread (which has diasppeared since then) on my problem back then
and I got lots of good info. I called for a tech anyway because I dont like
playing in those things, but I do like to understand how things work on the
other hand. When I called the techs, I knew that I had an overheating
problem.

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/hvac/

Good luck!

"HvacTech2" wrote in message
...


Hi Scootz, hope you are having a nice day

On 11-Mar-05 At About 22:59:49, Scootz wrote to All
Subject: Furnace cycling

S From: Scootz

S pop the cover off the thermostsat and check the ht
S antcipator setting. little dial in the center with a pointer on
S it set it to .6 and try it again. if this is set wrong it
S generates heat and fools the stat into thinking the room temp is
S satisfied.

If he didn't adjust it previously all this will do is make matters worse.

-= HvacTech2 =-

Thanks Scootz, HvacTech2 is correct, I did try that and it cycled 4 times
before I turned the stat down.

Stone

You said you moved the anticipator from 5 to 6 and gas cycling
increased, did it run complete cylces-fan turning off. You indicated
the fan was running, well, why not try moving it to 2. You probably
need a pro anyway but it is worth a try

"m Ransley" wrote in message
...
You said you moved the anticipator from 5 to 6 and gas cycling
increased, did it run complete cylces-fan turning off. You indicated
the fan was running, well, why not try moving it to 2. You probably
need a pro anyway but it is worth a try

That would be 4 burns in one cycle, first burn then fan on then burner shuts
down and comes back on two to three more times while the fan is running.
Whole cycle about 10 to 13 minutes. I could try lowering it as you say. I
have put a call in to the local HVAC guy here. Waiting for him to call back.
He might be gone for the weekend though.

Stone

You have to be careful about following any advice given in a NG as some
well
meaning people can cause more problems than you had to start with.
changing
the anticipator could actually burn up the thermostat if done wrong.



To OP: heed the above, I have to ask "Is your filter clean and free of
obstructions?"

I know that is obvious but I see it a half dozen times a year...

Joseph


-= HvacTech2 =-


.. "Sometimes I... No, I don't." - s.w.

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On Fri, 12 Mar 2005 10:30:59 , "HvacTech2"
wrote:


If he didn't adjust it previously all this will do is make matters worse.

-= HvacTech2 =-


.. "After they make styrofoam, what do they ship it in?" - s.w.

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yes, it could make it cycle worse. i did not say it would fix it. his
prob could very well be any number of furnace part related probs.

this was just a suggestion for a easy check he could do himself.
all the heat anticipator setting is for is to match the amp draw thro
the thermostat for correct furnace cycles. most run around 4 or 6 on
the settings.

for some strange reason, the pointer seems to get moved occasionally.
ive adjusted quite a few of them and that turned out to be the only
problem. as for burning it out just by changing the setting, its not
very likely. usually the only thing that will burn it out is a low
voltage short from the furnace controls or a high voltage related
surge thro the thermostat wire.

at any rate, the best thing to do is to call a reputable serv comp and
let a tech take a look at it.


---------------------------------------------------

Scootz

"HvacTech2" wrote in message
...


Hi Gary, hope you are having a nice day

On 12-Mar-05 At About 01:27:53, Gary Stone wrote to Gary Stone
Subject: Furnace cycling

GS From: "Gary Stone"

GS "HvacTech2" wrote in message
GS ...
Hi Gary, hope you are having a nice day

On 11-Mar-05 At About 22:25:04, Gary Stone wrote to Gary Stone
Subject: Furnace cycling

GS From: "Gary Stone"

GS Hi, I've got a forced air propane furnace, Luxaire model GSU082MF
GS Series NAGOE (could be a Q) serial #1310002 Controlled by a Honeywell
GS T87F heat only thermostat. This morning I was down in the basement
GS and noticed that it had the initial ignition then that cut off after
GS a while (normal burn) then a couple of minutes later a second
GS ignition which ran a couple of minutes, when that cut off I headed
GS up the stairs only to hear it kick in a third time for a couple
GS of minutes. Total time for this was about 10 to 13 minutes. Before
GS I went down there I had moved the thermostat only to the point which
GS it kicked in, 60º F from 58º F so, it wasn't that drastic a jump.
GS Yeah, I like it on the cool side. The outside temp was 19º F. I do
GS not remember it ever acting in this manner and suspect there might
GS be a problem, Yes? No? Thanks for any input.

GS Stone

have you moved or made any adjustments to the thermostat? if not it
could be a sign of unit failure coming. Do you have normal
maintenance done? if not it may be time to have it cleaned and tuned.

-= HvacTech2 =-

GS Had it cleaned about this time last year and he did adjust the
GS thermostat, I don't know what he did there but he did say the furnace
GS was in good shape and that he set the thermostat to a 1º something
GS or other, mean anything to you? I did try to move the HA setting
GS on Sctooz advise from 5 to 6 but moved it back to 5 as the burner
GS kicked in 4 times at 6. Well, I turned the stat down, didn't want
GS to try for a 5th. I know it's wasting propane but is it presenting
GS a fire hazard? When you say "Unit Failure" do you mean the
GS thermostat or the furnace?

I can't check it for sure since I am not there but it sounds like the unit
needs to be checked and cleaned. the thermostat is probably fine.



-= HvacTech2 =-

I did call the local HVAC guy here in town but had to leave a message.
Hasn't called back, could be out of town. In the mean time I've got the wood
burning stove going. Nice to have that to fall back on. Funny how these
things always seem to happen on a Friday or Saturday. Thanks for the help.

Stone

You know, I did just replaced the filter with one of those pleated ones in
lieu of the cheap fiberglass one that was in there about a week ago.

Stone

"Joseph" wrote in message
...

You have to be careful about following any advice given in a NG as some
well
meaning people can cause more problems than you had to start with.
changing
the anticipator could actually burn up the thermostat if done wrong.



To OP: heed the above, I have to ask "Is your filter clean and free of
obstructions?"

I know that is obvious but I see it a half dozen times a year...

Joseph


-= HvacTech2 =-


.. "Sometimes I... No, I don't." - s.w.

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Thanks Scootz, waiting for the heating contractor to call me back. Probably
won't here from him till Monday though.

Stone

"Scootz" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 12 Mar 2005 10:30:59 , "HvacTech2"
wrote:


If he didn't adjust it previously all this will do is make matters worse.

-= HvacTech2 =-


.. "After they make styrofoam, what do they ship it in?" - s.w.

___ TagDude 0.92á+[DM]
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++++++++
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yes, it could make it cycle worse. i did not say it would fix it. his
prob could very well be any number of furnace part related probs.

this was just a suggestion for a easy check he could do himself.
all the heat anticipator setting is for is to match the amp draw thro
the thermostat for correct furnace cycles. most run around 4 or 6 on
the settings.

for some strange reason, the pointer seems to get moved occasionally.
ive adjusted quite a few of them and that turned out to be the only
problem. as for burning it out just by changing the setting, its not
very likely. usually the only thing that will burn it out is a low
voltage short from the furnace controls or a high voltage related
surge thro the thermostat wire.

at any rate, the best thing to do is to call a reputable serv comp and
let a tech take a look at it.


---------------------------------------------------

Scootz

"Gary Stone" wrote in message
...
You know, I did just replaced the filter with one of those pleated ones in
lieu of the cheap fiberglass one that was in there about a week ago.

Stone

One thing you have to remember: You have to change those pleated ones (at
least !) every 60 days. Once they get a good "coating" on them, you are
going to compromise the effectiveness of your system....

Hi Scootz, hope you are having a nice day

On 12-Mar-05 At About 11:18:23, Scootz wrote to All
Subject: Furnace cycling

S From: Scootz

S yes, it could make it cycle worse. i did not say it would fix it. his
S prob could very well be any number of furnace part related probs.

S this was just a suggestion for a easy check he could do himself. all
S the heat anticipator setting is for is to match the amp draw thro
S the thermostat for correct

This part is correct.

S furnace cycles. most run around 4 or 6 on
S the settings.

This part is not correct. the setting should match the actual amp draw. not
"around" a setting.

S for some strange reason, the pointer seems to get moved occasionally.

They do not "move" themselves. someone has to do it physically.

S ive adjusted quite a few of them and that turned out to be the only
S problem. as for burning it out just by changing the setting,
S its not very likely.

it will burn out if you go too low on the setting.

S usually the only thing that will burn it out
S is a low voltage short from the furnace controls or a high voltage
S related surge thro the thermostat wire.

see above.

S at any rate, the best thing to do is to call a reputable serv comp
S and let a tech take a look at it.

Another true statement.

-= HvacTech2 =-


... Setting his death ray blaster on frappe, our hero sets off looking ...

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Hi Steve, hope you are having a nice day

On 13-Mar-05 At About 11:14:06, Steve B. wrote to All
Subject: Furnace cycling

SB From: Steve B.

SB On Sat, 12 Mar 2005 23:42:39 -0500, "Gary Stone" wrote:

SB You know, I did just replaced the filter with one of those
SB pleated ones in lieu of the cheap fiberglass one that was in there
SB about a week ago. Stone

SB Take the pleated filter out and replace with the kind you used to
SB have and see if the problem goes away.

Judging by his description this will not fix the problem.


-= HvacTech2 =-


... "Things don't bug you if you don't think about them." -- Calvin

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On Sat, 13 Mar 2005 05:46:25 , "HvacTech2"
wrote:

S yes, it could make it cycle worse. i did not say it would fix it. his
S prob could very well be any number of furnace part related probs.

S this was just a suggestion for a easy check he could do himself. all
S the heat anticipator setting is for is to match the amp draw thro
S the thermostat for correct

This part is correct.

S furnace cycles. most run around 4 or 6 on
S the settings.

This part is not correct. the setting should match the actual amp draw. not
"around" a setting.

apples and oranges dood. he asked for a few things he might be able
to check, simply. you know as well as i do that the average homeowner
isnt going to have an amp probe or the knowledge to use it.
it was something he could check without damaging anything or hurting
himself.

yes, it should match the amp draw. do you test the amp draw on every
thermostat that you lay your hands on every day? not likely. nor was
it checked when the stat was installed either. most are not.
usually the tech who puts it on sets it "around" 6 for carrier or 4
for older ruud or rheem equipment, as a loose general example.


S for some strange reason, the pointer seems to get moved occasionally.

They do not "move" themselves. someone has to do it physically.

no, they dont "move" themselves. maybe he pulled the cover off and
wiped the dust off of it. they do get moved sometimes. it was a
suggestion only. nitpick it some more, i can tell now you can't seem
to let this go.

S ive adjusted quite a few of them and that turned out to be the only
S problem. as for burning it out just by changing the setting,
S its not very likely.

it will burn out if you go too low on the setting.

maybe so, but i didnt tell him to turn it all the way down now did i?

S usually the only thing that will burn it out
S is a low voltage short from the furnace controls or a high voltage
S related surge thro the thermostat wire.

see above.

S at any rate, the best thing to do is to call a reputable serv comp
S and let a tech take a look at it.

Another true statement.

at least we agree on something

-= HvacTech2 =-


.. Setting his death ray blaster on frappe, our hero sets off looking ...

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you know, this is why ive never posted in here, nor do i post in
althvac.

yea, i lurk and read both of these grps, so i know your nym

he asked a simple question and got a simple answer.




---------------------------------------------------

Scootz

Hi Joseph, hope you are having a nice day

On 12-Mar-05 At About 21:08:42, Joseph wrote to All
Subject: Furnace cycling

J From: "Joseph"

J "HvacTech2" wrote in message
J ...
Hi Steve, hope you are having a nice day

On 13-Mar-05 At About 11:14:06, Steve B. wrote to All Subject:
Furnace cycling

SB From: Steve B.

SB On Sat, 12 Mar 2005 23:42:39 -0500, "Gary Stone"
wrote:

SB You know, I did just replaced the filter with one of those
SB pleated ones in lieu of the cheap fiberglass one that was in there
SB about a week ago. Stone

SB Take the pleated filter out and replace with the kind you used to
SB have and see if the problem goes away.

Judging by his description this will not fix the problem.

J If the system is cycling on high limit it is possibly an airflow
J problem. If the HO were to remove the filter and it works normally,
J the problem may not be solved but it would be identified, no?

if you read the original. by what he describes the burner doesn't run long
enough for the fan to even come on.



-= HvacTech2 =-


... Live long enough to become a problem to your kids.

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On Sat, 12 Mar 2005 23:42:39 -0500, "Gary Stone" wrote:

You know, I did just replaced the filter with one of those pleated ones in
lieu of the cheap fiberglass one that was in there about a week ago.

Stone


Take the pleated filter out and replace with the kind you used to have
and see if the problem goes away.

Steve B.

Hi Joseph, hope you are having a nice day

On 13-Mar-05 At About 00:50:50, Joseph wrote to All
Subject: Furnace cycling

J From: "Joseph"

J "HvacTech2" wrote in message
J ...
Hi Joseph, hope you are having a nice day

On 12-Mar-05 At About 21:08:42, Joseph wrote to All Subject:
Furnace cycling

J From: "Joseph"

J "HvacTech2" wrote in message J
... Hi Steve, hope you
are having a nice day

On 13-Mar-05 At About 11:14:06, Steve B. wrote to All Subject:
Furnace cycling

SB From: Steve B.

SB On Sat, 12 Mar 2005 23:42:39 -0500, "Gary Stone"
wrote:

SB You know, I did just replaced the filter with one of those
SB pleated ones in lieu of the cheap fiberglass one that was in about
there SB a week ago. Stone

SB Take the pleated filter out and replace with the kind you used have
to SB and see if the problem goes away.

Judging by his description this will not fix the problem.

J If the system is cycling on high limit it is possibly an airflow
J problem. If the HO were to remove the filter and it works normally,
J the problem may not be solved but it would be identified,
J no?

if you read the original. by what he describes the burner doesn't run
long enough for the fan to even come on.

J I just reread the OP's posts and it seems clear to me that it is up
J and burning and the fan is running when it kicks out repeatedly with
J out cycling the fan. I may be miss-interpreting it though...

It is quite hard to try to troubleshoot over the net. That is why I usually
recommend a call to a local company. there just isn't any way to get a
correct answer when the person you are writing to doesn't understand the
terminology or correct operating sequence. I could be wrong be I thought he
said it cycled several times before the fan even came on.

-= HvacTech2 =-


... "I wrote a few children's books... Not on purpose." - s.w.

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"HvacTech2" wrote in message
...


Hi Steve, hope you are having a nice day

On 13-Mar-05 At About 11:14:06, Steve B. wrote to All
Subject: Furnace cycling

SB From: Steve B.

SB On Sat, 12 Mar 2005 23:42:39 -0500, "Gary Stone" wrote:

SB You know, I did just replaced the filter with one of those
SB pleated ones in lieu of the cheap fiberglass one that was in there
SB about a week ago. Stone

SB Take the pleated filter out and replace with the kind you used to
SB have and see if the problem goes away.

Judging by his description this will not fix the problem.

If the system is cycling on high limit it is possibly an airflow
problem. If the HO were to remove the filter and it works normally, the
problem may not be solved but it would be identified, no?

Joseph



-= HvacTech2 =-


.. "Things don't bug you if you don't think about them." -- Calvin

___ TagDude 0.92á+[DM]
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spam protection measure, Please remove the 33 to send e-mail

What kind of filter do you have? The home centers are selling lots of
pleated filters like the 3M Filtrete. These filters have more pressure
drop and resistance to air flow than a fiberglass filter dirty enough
to grow seedlings in it. you could have a problem with low airflow
tripping the high limit switch. Put in a clean fiberglass filter and
try again. Messing with the heat anticipator is for professionals that
can measure the results. Make sure the registers in all rooms are
open. People sometiumes close them "to save money" and reduce airflow
in the system. Low airflow can ruin equipment.


stretch

"HvacTech2" wrote in message
...


Hi Joseph, hope you are having a nice day

On 12-Mar-05 At About 21:08:42, Joseph wrote to All
Subject: Furnace cycling

J From: "Joseph"

J "HvacTech2" wrote in message
J ...
Hi Steve, hope you are having a nice day

On 13-Mar-05 At About 11:14:06, Steve B. wrote to All Subject:
Furnace cycling

SB From: Steve B.

SB On Sat, 12 Mar 2005 23:42:39 -0500, "Gary Stone"
wrote:

SB You know, I did just replaced the filter with one of those
SB pleated ones in lieu of the cheap fiberglass one that was in there
SB about a week ago. Stone

SB Take the pleated filter out and replace with the kind you used to
SB have and see if the problem goes away.

Judging by his description this will not fix the problem.

J If the system is cycling on high limit it is possibly an airflow
J problem. If the HO were to remove the filter and it works normally,
J the problem may not be solved but it would be identified, no?

if you read the original. by what he describes the burner doesn't run long
enough for the fan to even come on.

I just reread the OP's posts and it seems clear to me that it is up and
burning and the fan is running when it kicks out repeatedly with out cycling
the fan. I may be miss-interpreting it though...

Joseph




-= HvacTech2 =-


.. Live long enough to become a problem to your kids.

___ TagDude 0.92á+[DM]
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++++++
spam protection measure, Please remove the 33 to send e-mail

"Joseph" wrote in message
...

"HvacTech2" wrote in message
...


Hi Joseph, hope you are having a nice day

On 12-Mar-05 At About 21:08:42, Joseph wrote to All
Subject: Furnace cycling

J From: "Joseph"

J "HvacTech2" wrote in message
J ...
Hi Steve, hope you are having a nice day

On 13-Mar-05 At About 11:14:06, Steve B. wrote to All Subject:
Furnace cycling

SB From: Steve B.

SB On Sat, 12 Mar 2005 23:42:39 -0500, "Gary Stone"
wrote:

SB You know, I did just replaced the filter with one of those
SB pleated ones in lieu of the cheap fiberglass one that was in there
SB about a week ago. Stone

SB Take the pleated filter out and replace with the kind you used to
SB have and see if the problem goes away.

Judging by his description this will not fix the problem.

J If the system is cycling on high limit it is possibly an airflow
J problem. If the HO were to remove the filter and it works normally,
J the problem may not be solved but it would be identified, no?

if you read the original. by what he describes the burner doesn't run
long
enough for the fan to even come on.

I just reread the OP's posts and it seems clear to me that it is up
and
burning and the fan is running when it kicks out repeatedly with out
cycling
the fan. I may be miss-interpreting it though...

Joseph




-= HvacTech2 =-

OP here, Fan runs normally, burner is cycling on and off. Anyway, have to
call the guy back tomorrow, will let you know what it ends up being.

Stone

How much of a pressure drop is that. How much would that extra resistance
raise the TD?

--
Bob Pietrangelo


www.comfort-solution.biz
On Time or Your Service Call is FREE
Preventive Maintenance Specialist




"stretch" wrote in message
ups.com...
What kind of filter do you have? The home centers are selling lots of
pleated filters like the 3M Filtrete. These filters have more pressure
drop and resistance to air flow than a fiberglass filter dirty enough
to grow seedlings in it. you could have a problem with low airflow
tripping the high limit switch. Put in a clean fiberglass filter and
try again. Messing with the heat anticipator is for professionals that
can measure the results. Make sure the registers in all rooms are
open. People sometiumes close them "to save money" and reduce airflow
in the system. Low airflow can ruin equipment.


stretch

Hi Gary, hope you are having a nice day

On 13-Mar-05 At About 15:03:52, Gary Stone wrote to Gary Stone
Subject: Furnace cycling

GS From: "Gary Stone"

GS it. About 3 seconds after I opened it the burner shut off and there
GS was not a third or fourth burn. Right now it is hotter than hell
GS in here and the wood stove is going. Will try it in morning and see
GS if it's back to 1 burn. Going to have the Tech out anyway to check
GS things out for safety's sake.

Please let me know the results.

-= HvacTech2 =-


... Let him who is stoned cast the first sin.

___ TagDude 0.92á+[DM]
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++++++
spam protection measure, Please remove the 33 to send e-mail

"stretch" wrote in message
ups.com...
What kind of filter do you have? The home centers are selling lots of
pleated filters like the 3M Filtrete. These filters have more pressure
drop and resistance to air flow than a fiberglass filter dirty enough
to grow seedlings in it. you could have a problem with low airflow
tripping the high limit switch. Put in a clean fiberglass filter and
try again. Messing with the heat anticipator is for professionals that
can measure the results. Make sure the registers in all rooms are
open. People sometiumes close them "to save money" and reduce airflow
in the system. Low airflow can ruin equipment.


stretch

Hi stretch, 3m pleated, right after I replied to HvacTech2 I read your post
and figured what the heck. Went down the basement and got the old fiberglass
filter and tapped out the loose gunk, put it back in and turned up the stat.
Sat there and watched it. The burner did cycle on a second time but then I
remembered the vent on the side of the cold air return at the furnace had
been closed off when some work was done on the house cause of code, but the
guy left it so it could be opened and said if you ever have trouble you can
open it. About 3 seconds after I opened it the burner shut off and there was
not a third or fourth burn. Right now it is hotter than hell in here and the
wood stove is going. Will try it in morning and see if it's back to 1 burn.
Going to have the Tech out anyway to check things out for safety's sake.

Stone

I tested air filters at my family's old company. I used 20 x 20 x 1
filters in a test stand. I used 800 CFM as a standart air flow, using a
flow hood to measure air flow and a damper to control it. A standard
fiberglass filter had a pressure drop of 0.75 to 0,8 inches water
column (IWC) at 800 CFM. all the 1" thick pleated filters that I tested
had a pressure drop of 0.2 Inches Water Column. That is 2-1/2 times as
much as a standard fiberglass filter! After being used in our HVAC
system for three months as recommended by the filter manufacturer, the
pressure drop on one of them was 0.35 IWC! I wrote an article about my
experience and it was published in the October 1999 issue of
Contracting Business Magazine. I can email you a copy of the article
if you can send me a copy of your email address that I can read.

Stretch
843-385-2220
O'Neill Bagwell Cooling & Heating
sixfoot7 @ sccoast . net