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djay
 
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Default Replacing Main supply gate valve

Relplacing the gate valve with a ball valve. The gate handle is broken.
The ball valve is brass with sweat fittings. I will be replacing the
pressure regulator while I'm at it because the house is 20 years old.
Anyway, I noticed that the Ball Valve has, what seems to be, some plastic
lining around the ball valve. Is there a risk of this lining melting when I
apply the torch? Is there any procedure I need to be aware of to keep it
from melting? Am I just paranoid? Guy at the plumbing store says that it
takes a lot to melt them and I shouldn't have a problem. Any suggestions?

Thanks,

DJay


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Dave Morrison
 
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djay wrote:
Relplacing the gate valve with a ball valve. The gate handle is broken.
The ball valve is brass with sweat fittings. I will be replacing the
pressure regulator while I'm at it because the house is 20 years old.
Anyway, I noticed that the Ball Valve has, what seems to be, some plastic
lining around the ball valve. Is there a risk of this lining melting when I
apply the torch? Is there any procedure I need to be aware of to keep it
from melting? Am I just paranoid? Guy at the plumbing store says that it
takes a lot to melt them and I shouldn't have a problem. Any suggestions?

Thanks,

DJay



A couple of tips, wrap the body of the valve with a wet rag, and use a
hot torch. Get in heat it up fast and get out. Mapp gas in a Turbo torch
is my favorite.
Dave

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Barrie Hiern
 
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Hello, been there and when I did that I used a ball valve with threaded
ends, solder about 3"-4" of pipe onto the threaded connector and then attach
those to the ball valve. When you go to solder the valve in the 3-4" of
already installed pipe is the heat sink to protect the ball lining.
Barrie

"Dave Morrison" wrote in message
...
djay wrote:
Relplacing the gate valve with a ball valve. The gate handle is broken.
The ball valve is brass with sweat fittings. I will be replacing the
pressure regulator while I'm at it because the house is 20 years old.
Anyway, I noticed that the Ball Valve has, what seems to be, some

plastic
lining around the ball valve. Is there a risk of this lining melting

when I
apply the torch? Is there any procedure I need to be aware of to keep

it
from melting? Am I just paranoid? Guy at the plumbing store says that

it
takes a lot to melt them and I shouldn't have a problem. Any

suggestions?

Thanks,

DJay



A couple of tips, wrap the body of the valve with a wet rag, and use a
hot torch. Get in heat it up fast and get out. Mapp gas in a Turbo torch
is my favorite.
Dave



  #4   Report Post  
SQLit
 
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Default


"djay" wrote in message
news:i4cWd.56002$uc.2781@trnddc03...
Relplacing the gate valve with a ball valve. The gate handle is broken.
The ball valve is brass with sweat fittings. I will be replacing the
pressure regulator while I'm at it because the house is 20 years old.
Anyway, I noticed that the Ball Valve has, what seems to be, some plastic
lining around the ball valve. Is there a risk of this lining melting when

I
apply the torch? Is there any procedure I need to be aware of to keep it
from melting? Am I just paranoid? Guy at the plumbing store says that it
takes a lot to melt them and I shouldn't have a problem. Any suggestions?

Thanks,

DJay



You do not mention the size. 1 inch is a lot harder than 1/2 inch to sweat.
What I do is use a threaded connector soldered to a length of pipe before it
is connected to the valve. Threads covered in Teflon tape and pipe dope.
Tighten as needed. If I have to, I will use a union to keep the heat away
from the valve.



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djay
 
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Default


"SQLit" wrote in message
news:V4kWd.155037$0u.93933@fed1read04...

"djay" wrote in message
news:i4cWd.56002$uc.2781@trnddc03...
Relplacing the gate valve with a ball valve. The gate handle is broken.
The ball valve is brass with sweat fittings. I will be replacing the
pressure regulator while I'm at it because the house is 20 years old.
Anyway, I noticed that the Ball Valve has, what seems to be, some plastic
lining around the ball valve. Is there a risk of this lining melting
when

I
apply the torch? Is there any procedure I need to be aware of to keep it
from melting? Am I just paranoid? Guy at the plumbing store says that
it
takes a lot to melt them and I shouldn't have a problem. Any
suggestions?

Thanks,

DJay



You do not mention the size. 1 inch is a lot harder than 1/2 inch to
sweat.
What I do is use a threaded connector soldered to a length of pipe before
it
is connected to the valve. Threads covered in Teflon tape and pipe dope.
Tighten as needed. If I have to, I will use a union to keep the heat away
from the valve.



It's 3/4 inch hardware. The 3/4 inch ball valve has sweat connectors. I
think Are you saying that you solder the other end of the pipe (not on the
valve side) to whatever it will be connected to before you sweat the ball
valve side(s)? Is this for heat sink reasons? To get the heat away from
the ball valve as soon as possible?

Thanks,

DJay




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djay
 
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Default


"Dave Morrison" wrote in message
...
djay wrote:
Relplacing the gate valve with a ball valve. The gate handle is broken.
The ball valve is brass with sweat fittings. I will be replacing the
pressure regulator while I'm at it because the house is 20 years old.
Anyway, I noticed that the Ball Valve has, what seems to be, some plastic
lining around the ball valve. Is there a risk of this lining melting
when I apply the torch? Is there any procedure I need to be aware of to
keep it from melting? Am I just paranoid? Guy at the plumbing store
says that it takes a lot to melt them and I shouldn't have a problem.
Any suggestions?

Thanks,

DJay


A couple of tips, wrap the body of the valve with a wet rag, and use a hot
torch. Get in heat it up fast and get out. Mapp gas in a Turbo torch is my
favorite.
Dave


Good advice. I don't have a Mapp gas torch.... I'll see my neighbor! :~)


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Ed
 
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Default


"djay" wrote

Relplacing the gate valve with a ball valve. The gate handle is broken.
The ball valve is brass with sweat fittings. I will be replacing the
pressure regulator while I'm at it because the house is 20 years old.
Anyway, I noticed that the Ball Valve has, what seems to be, some plastic
lining around the ball valve. Is there a risk of this lining melting when
I apply the torch? Is there any procedure I need to be aware of to keep
it from melting? Am I just paranoid? Guy at the plumbing store says that
it takes a lot to melt them and I shouldn't have a problem. Any
suggestions?

Thanks,

DJay


If your water is supplied by the town or city you live in those items may
belong to them and can be replaced by them free of charge. Call and check
with them.


  #8   Report Post  
jimmy
 
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Default

If the gate valve handle is broken, why not just replace the gate and
shaft assembly? You don't have to remove the body to do this.

djay wrote:
Relplacing the gate valve with a ball valve. The gate handle is broken.
The ball valve is brass with sweat fittings. I will be replacing the
pressure regulator while I'm at it because the house is 20 years old.
Anyway, I noticed that the Ball Valve has, what seems to be, some plastic
lining around the ball valve. Is there a risk of this lining melting when I
apply the torch? Is there any procedure I need to be aware of to keep it
from melting? Am I just paranoid? Guy at the plumbing store says that it
takes a lot to melt them and I shouldn't have a problem. Any suggestions?

Thanks,

DJay


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