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#1
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Cutting cast iron bath tub with circular saw
Is it possible to cut a cast iron bathtub with a circular saw? I bought the metal cutting abrasive blades, but it is eating up the blade faster than the bathtub. Ended up with a heap of black dust from the blade, but only a small dent in the bath tub. The cut is getting red hot, and sparks are flying. At this rate, it will take me days to get through. I am wondering if there is an easier way. I can't use a sledge hammer as there isn't much room for swing. Perhaps a different kind of blade? Any ideas are appreciated. Thanks! |
#2
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Andrew Sarangan wrote:
Is it possible to cut a cast iron bathtub with a circular saw? I bought the metal cutting abrasive blades, but it is eating up the blade faster than the bathtub. Ended up with a heap of black dust from the blade, but only a small dent in the bath tub. The cut is getting red hot, and sparks are flying. At this rate, it will take me days to get through. I am wondering if there is an easier way. I can't use a sledge hammer as there isn't much room for swing. Perhaps a different kind of blade? Any ideas are appreciated. Thanks! If you can't use a sledgehammer, use a pneumatic hammer or an electric jackhammer. BTW, you would need a masonary blade rather than a metal-cutting blade to get through the porcelain. Bob |
#3
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"Andrew Sarangan" wrote in message 1... Is it possible to cut a cast iron bathtub with a circular saw? I bought the metal cutting abrasive blades, but it is eating up the blade faster than the bathtub. Ended up with a heap of black dust from the blade, but only a small dent in the bath tub. The cut is getting red hot, and sparks are flying. At this rate, it will take me days to get through. I am wondering if there is an easier way. I can't use a sledge hammer as there isn't much room for swing. Perhaps a different kind of blade? Any ideas are appreciated. Thanks! flip tub upside down, stand on it swing sledge! |
#4
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I have no advice, but I wish you well.
I helped carry a bath tube down a flight of stairs a couple years ago, and that can't be right. Once we got it outside, we tried breaking it up with a sledgehammer, but nothing happened. |
#5
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toller wrote:
I have no advice, but I wish you well. I helped carry a bath tube down a flight of stairs a couple years ago, and that can't be right. Once we got it outside, we tried breaking it up with a sledgehammer, but nothing happened. They *do* make steel tubs as well as cast iron -- dadiOH ____________________________ dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico |
#6
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Wrong tools.
Use a pick!!! Sort of thing for miners breaking rock. Someone at Home Depot told me how you just couldn't break up one of those old tubs, I brought him a square of it in my back pocket. Took less than an hour to have that tub reduced to pieces that could fit into a bucket. "Punch" wrote in message ... "Andrew Sarangan" wrote in message 1... Is it possible to cut a cast iron bathtub with a circular saw? I bought the metal cutting abrasive blades, but it is eating up the blade faster than the bathtub. Ended up with a heap of black dust from the blade, but only a small dent in the bath tub. The cut is getting red hot, and sparks are flying. At this rate, it will take me days to get through. I am wondering if there is an easier way. I can't use a sledge hammer as there isn't much room for swing. Perhaps a different kind of blade? Any ideas are appreciated. Thanks! flip tub upside down, stand on it swing sledge! |
#7
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Andrew Sarangan wrote:
Is it possible to cut a cast iron bathtub with a circular saw? I http://www.stretcher.com/stories/99/991129h.cfm |
#8
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On 30 Jan 2005 13:41:17 -0600, Andrew Sarangan
wrote: Is it possible to cut a cast iron bathtub with a circular saw? I bought the metal cutting abrasive blades, but it is eating up the blade faster than the bathtub. Ended up with a heap of black dust from the blade, but only a small dent in the bath tub. The cut is getting red hot, and sparks are flying. At this rate, it will take me days to get through. I am wondering if there is an easier way. I can't use a sledge hammer as there isn't much room for swing. Perhaps a different kind of blade? Any ideas are appreciated. Thanks! If you had some way to avoid burning down your house, a cutting torch works well. Also sharp items like a pick axe will punch through most times and once the metal starts to fracture it will usually cause a chain reaction so you can smash the rest up with a sledge hammer. However, sometimes you get one of those extra tough old @#$@@'s and nothing works. Good luck. Drifter "I've been here, I've been there..." |
#9
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If the water closet is in your way, remove it. You will need the
space to maneuver any way, no matter what kind of tub it is. Put an old blanket or heavy visqueen over the tub to catch shrapnel. Swing a big hammer. If it dents like a car rather than shattering, it is a steel tub. (top posted for your convenience) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Keep the whole world singing . . . . DanG (remove the sevens) "Andrew Sarangan" wrote in message 1... Is it possible to cut a cast iron bathtub with a circular saw? I bought the metal cutting abrasive blades, but it is eating up the blade faster than the bathtub. Ended up with a heap of black dust from the blade, but only a small dent in the bath tub. The cut is getting red hot, and sparks are flying. At this rate, it will take me days to get through. I am wondering if there is an easier way. I can't use a sledge hammer as there isn't much room for swing. Perhaps a different kind of blade? Any ideas are appreciated. Thanks! |
#10
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"Drifter" wrote in message ... On 30 Jan 2005 13:41:17 -0600, Andrew Sarangan wrote: (snip) If you had some way to avoid burning down your house, a cutting torch works well. Also sharp items like a pick axe will punch through most times and once the metal starts to fracture it will usually cause a chain reaction so you can smash the rest up with a sledge hammer. However, sometimes you get one of those extra tough old @#$@@'s and nothing works. Liquid nitrogen? Pour it full, throw a blanket over the top, and let it sit a few minutes, then hit it with the BFH? aem sends, tongue firmly in cheek.... |
#11
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Andrew Sarangan wrote: Is it possible to cut a cast iron bathtub with a circular saw? I bought the metal cutting abrasive blades, but it is eating up the blade faster than the bathtub. Ended up with a heap of black dust from the blade, but only a small dent in the bath tub. The cut is getting red hot, and sparks are flying. At this rate, it will take me days to get through. I am wondering if there is an easier way. I can't use a sledge hammer as there isn't much room for swing. Perhaps a different kind of blade? Any ideas are appreciated. Thanks! Must be one strange tub. There is plenty of room to swing a pick or sledge inside the tub. It shouldn't take a round-house swing, especially with a pick, to start it cracking. Cast iron is brittle and once you start a crack it breaks up fast. You should drape it with a blanket tho. Harry K |
#12
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"dadiOH" wrote in message ... toller wrote: I have no advice, but I wish you well. I helped carry a bath tube down a flight of stairs a couple years ago, and that can't be right. Once we got it outside, we tried breaking it up with a sledgehammer, but nothing happened. They *do* make steel tubs as well as cast iron Is steel as heavy as cast iron? |
#13
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I broke up a cast iron tub with a sledge before...20 minutes and it was
in little pieces. 1000% easier than I thought it would be. |
#14
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I've tried it with both a pick and a sledge.
Had to have more of a swing with a sledge, so I switched over to a pick. "Fake name goes here" wrote in message ... I broke up a cast iron tub with a sledge before...20 minutes and it was in little pieces. 1000% easier than I thought it would be. |
#15
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steel tubs are generally much lighter than cast iron.
If you carried a cast iron one down some stairs, you would remember it. bill "toller" wrote in message ... "dadiOH" wrote in message ... toller wrote: I have no advice, but I wish you well. I helped carry a bath tube down a flight of stairs a couple years ago, and that can't be right. Once we got it outside, we tried breaking it up with a sledgehammer, but nothing happened. They *do* make steel tubs as well as cast iron Is steel as heavy as cast iron? |
#16
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Andrew Sarangan wrote:
Is it possible to cut a cast iron bathtub with a circular saw? I bought the metal cutting abrasive blades, but it is eating up the blade faster than the bathtub. Ended up with a heap of black dust from the blade, but only a small dent in the bath tub. The cut is getting red hot, and sparks are flying. At this rate, it will take me days to get through. I am wondering if there is an easier way. I can't use a sledge hammer as there isn't much room for swing. Perhaps a different kind of blade? Any ideas are appreciated. Thanks! Have room to swing a single jack?? |
#17
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Andrew Sarangan wrote: Is it possible to cut a cast iron bathtub with a circular saw? I bought the metal cutting abrasive blades, but it is eating up the blade faster than the bathtub. Ended up with a heap of black dust from the blade, but only a small dent in the bath tub. The cut is getting red hot, and sparks are flying. At this rate, it will take me days to get through. I am wondering if there is an easier way. I can't use a sledge hammer as there isn't much room for swing. Perhaps a different kind of blade? Any ideas are appreciated. Thanks! I missed it too. WEAR SAFETY GLASSES no matter how you finally do it. I am wearing an artificial lens now because I didn't while doing nothing more than driving a nail (mis strike). Harry K |
#18
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"Michael Baugh" wrote in message ... Wrong tools. Use a pick!!! Sort of thing for miners breaking rock. Someone at Home Depot told me how you just couldn't break up one of those old tubs, I brought him a square of it in my back pocket. Took less than an hour to have that tub reduced to pieces that could fit into a bucket. The kind of answer you might expect from one of their "experts". I worked my way thru school working for a plumbing company. I never saw a cast iron tub that wouldn't break up after a few good blows. |
#19
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hi guys
I bought a pick axe as suggested by some people here, covered the bathtub with a tarp, and tried to break it. No joy. Every time I banged it, the porcelain broke off, but there was no sign of damage to the metal underneath. What am I doing wrong? Am I not hitting it hard enough? |
#20
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Andrew Sarangan wrote: hi guys I bought a pick axe as suggested by some people here, covered the bathtub with a tarp, and tried to break it. No joy. Every time I banged it, the porcelain broke off, but there was no sign of damage to the metal underneath. What am I doing wrong? Am I not hitting it hard enough? Repeated blows to the same spot is the answer. I wouldn't think that excessive power will accomplish much but gentle tapping won't either. Harry K |
#21
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Andrew Sarangan wrote:
hi guys I bought a pick axe as suggested by some people here, covered the bathtub with a tarp, and tried to break it. No joy. Every time I banged it, the porcelain broke off, but there was no sign of damage to the metal underneath. What am I doing wrong? Am I not hitting it hard enough? Did it dent at all? If so, the tub is steel, not cast iron. Cast iron breaks, steel won't. -- dadiOH ____________________________ dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico |
#22
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dadiOH wrote: Andrew Sarangan wrote: hi guys I bought a pick axe as suggested by some people here, covered the bathtub with a tarp, and tried to break it. No joy. Every time I banged it, the porcelain broke off, but there was no sign of damage to the metal underneath. What am I doing wrong? Am I not hitting it hard enough? Did it dent at all? If so, the tub is steel, not cast iron. Cast iron breaks, steel won't. It did not dent, but there were small chips were it was struck. I didn't feel that those chips were large enough to cause a crack. Can I tell from the color whether it is steel? It is a dull grey metal. Also, I did manage to cut tub using a metal cutting circular saw. I did not get very far, but it did no feel like steel to me. |
#24
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I don't know what you guys are talking about. I whacked it with a pick axe. Many blows at maximum strength. It made several small dents on the surface, and even made a through hole about 1/4" diameter. But no major cracks. The only thing that broke was the tip of my pick axe. I am pretty certain that this is not a steel tub. I am hitting it along the outside surface, which allows me to get a full swing on the axe. I can't hit it from the inside surface bacause I can't get a full swing inside the bathtub. Obviously I am doing something wrong, but I can't figure out what. "DanG" wrote in news:_w6Nd.934$Zr.354@okepread03: It is still sounding like a cast iron tub. A full swing on the outside of the tub with an eight pound or greater sledge hammer should shatter it. This thing is going to break more like a piece of glass than a piece of concrete. It is not going to develop little cracks that you keep hitting. Same stuff as a cast iron skillet. (top posted for your convenience) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Keep the whole world singing . . . . DanG (remove the sevens) wrote in message oups.com... dadiOH wrote: Andrew Sarangan wrote: hi guys I bought a pick axe as suggested by some people here, covered the bathtub with a tarp, and tried to break it. No joy. Every time I banged it, the porcelain broke off, but there was no sign of damage to the metal underneath. What am I doing wrong? Am I not hitting it hard enough? Did it dent at all? If so, the tub is steel, not cast iron. Cast iron breaks, steel won't. It did not dent, but there were small chips were it was struck. I didn't feel that those chips were large enough to cause a crack. Can I tell from the color whether it is steel? It is a dull grey metal. Also, I did manage to cut tub using a metal cutting circular saw. I did not get very far, but it did no feel like steel to me. |
#25
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Let's clarify here. A pick like I used is an old one, quite heavy,
and has a pointed end on one side, a chisel tip on the other. Mine weighs about 12 pounds without the handle. It is NOT a pick axe, which is like the tool firemen use. A SERIOUS pick would not have been able to have its point bent by what you were doing. "Andrew Sarangan" wrote in message 1... I don't know what you guys are talking about. I whacked it with a pick axe. Many blows at maximum strength. It made several small dents on the surface, and even made a through hole about 1/4" diameter. But no major cracks. The only thing that broke was the tip of my pick axe. I am pretty certain that this is not a steel tub. I am hitting it along the outside surface, which allows me to get a full swing on the axe. I can't hit it from the inside surface bacause I can't get a full swing inside the bathtub. Obviously I am doing something wrong, but I can't figure out what. "DanG" wrote in news:_w6Nd.934$Zr.354@okepread03: It is still sounding like a cast iron tub. A full swing on the outside of the tub with an eight pound or greater sledge hammer should shatter it. This thing is going to break more like a piece of glass than a piece of concrete. It is not going to develop little cracks that you keep hitting. Same stuff as a cast iron skillet. (top posted for your convenience) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Keep the whole world singing . . . . DanG (remove the sevens) wrote in message oups.com... dadiOH wrote: Andrew Sarangan wrote: hi guys I bought a pick axe as suggested by some people here, covered the bathtub with a tarp, and tried to break it. No joy. Every time I banged it, the porcelain broke off, but there was no sign of damage to the metal underneath. What am I doing wrong? Am I not hitting it hard enough? Did it dent at all? If so, the tub is steel, not cast iron. Cast iron breaks, steel won't. It did not dent, but there were small chips were it was struck. I didn't feel that those chips were large enough to cause a crack. Can I tell from the color whether it is steel? It is a dull grey metal. Also, I did manage to cut tub using a metal cutting circular saw. I did not get very far, but it did no feel like steel to me. |
#26
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it sounds like you have a steel tub, since it dented rather than shattered
-- Mikey S. http://www.mike721.com "Andrew Sarangan" wrote in message 1... I don't know what you guys are talking about. I whacked it with a pick axe. Many blows at maximum strength. It made several small dents on the surface, and even made a through hole about 1/4" diameter. But no major cracks. The only thing that broke was the tip of my pick axe. I am pretty certain that this is not a steel tub. |
#27
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OK, thanks. I used a bigger sledge hammer and got some pieces to come
off. But I am surprised by the large amount of force required. I am still puzzled how I am going to break the bottom of the bathtub. If I pound on it vertically, I am afraid I might break the floor underneath it. I don't want the whole house collapsing around me :-) Any ideas? Michael Baugh wrote: Let's clarify here. A pick like I used is an old one, quite heavy, and has a pointed end on one side, a chisel tip on the other. Mine weighs about 12 pounds without the handle. It is NOT a pick axe, which is like the tool firemen use. A SERIOUS pick would not have been able to have its point bent by what you were doing. "Andrew Sarangan" wrote in message 1... I don't know what you guys are talking about. I whacked it with a pick axe. Many blows at maximum strength. It made several small dents on the surface, and even made a through hole about 1/4" diameter. But no major cracks. The only thing that broke was the tip of my pick axe. I am pretty certain that this is not a steel tub. I am hitting it along the outside surface, which allows me to get a full swing on the axe. I can't hit it from the inside surface bacause I can't get a full swing inside the bathtub. Obviously I am doing something wrong, but I can't figure out what. "DanG" wrote in news:_w6Nd.934$Zr.354@okepread03: It is still sounding like a cast iron tub. A full swing on the outside of the tub with an eight pound or greater sledge hammer should shatter it. This thing is going to break more like a piece of glass than a piece of concrete. It is not going to develop little cracks that you keep hitting. Same stuff as a cast iron skillet. (top posted for your convenience) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Keep the whole world singing . . . . DanG (remove the sevens) wrote in message oups.com... dadiOH wrote: Andrew Sarangan wrote: hi guys I bought a pick axe as suggested by some people here, covered the bathtub with a tarp, and tried to break it. No joy. Every time I banged it, the porcelain broke off, but there was no sign of damage to the metal underneath. What am I doing wrong? Am I not hitting it hard enough? Did it dent at all? If so, the tub is steel, not cast iron. Cast iron breaks, steel won't. It did not dent, but there were small chips were it was struck. I didn't feel that those chips were large enough to cause a crack. Can I tell from the color whether it is steel? It is a dull grey metal. Also, I did manage to cut tub using a metal cutting circular saw. I did not get very far, but it did no feel like steel to me. |
#28
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#29
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Thanks everyone for your help. The trick was to use an 8lb sledge
hammer. I am sure a heavy pick axe would have worked too. I was using a much lighter tool. It took about 30 minutes to reduce the bathtub to pieces. It was definitely cast iron, no doubts about it. Now I have to deal with how to get rid of the pieces. Next problem is how to move the new bathtub into place. The wall-to-wall spacing is 60", just the width of the new bathtub. How do I maneuver the tab into place? I was thinking of tilting it against the wall and lowering it into place. But then it occured to me that the tilted length will be longer than 60" if it is a square bottom. If it is a tapered bottom, then it may be ok. Any ideas? "Michael Baugh" wrote in news:sKaNd.17114 : Let's clarify here. A pick like I used is an old one, quite heavy, and has a pointed end on one side, a chisel tip on the other. Mine weighs about 12 pounds without the handle. It is NOT a pick axe, which is like the tool firemen use. A SERIOUS pick would not have been able to have its point bent by what you were doing. "Andrew Sarangan" wrote in message 1... I don't know what you guys are talking about. I whacked it with a pick axe. Many blows at maximum strength. It made several small dents on the surface, and even made a through hole about 1/4" diameter. But no major cracks. The only thing that broke was the tip of my pick axe. I am pretty certain that this is not a steel tub. I am hitting it along the outside surface, which allows me to get a full swing on the axe. I can't hit it from the inside surface bacause I can't get a full swing inside the bathtub. Obviously I am doing something wrong, but I can't figure out what. "DanG" wrote in news:_w6Nd.934$Zr.354 @okepread03: It is still sounding like a cast iron tub. A full swing on the outside of the tub with an eight pound or greater sledge hammer should shatter it. This thing is going to break more like a piece of glass than a piece of concrete. It is not going to develop little cracks that you keep hitting. Same stuff as a cast iron skillet. (top posted for your convenience) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Keep the whole world singing . . . . DanG (remove the sevens) wrote in message oups.com... dadiOH wrote: Andrew Sarangan wrote: hi guys I bought a pick axe as suggested by some people here, covered the bathtub with a tarp, and tried to break it. No joy. Every time I banged it, the porcelain broke off, but there was no sign of damage to the metal underneath. What am I doing wrong? Am I not hitting it hard enough? Did it dent at all? If so, the tub is steel, not cast iron. Cast iron breaks, steel won't. It did not dent, but there were small chips were it was struck. I didn't feel that those chips were large enough to cause a crack. Can I tell from the color whether it is steel? It is a dull grey metal. Also, I did manage to cut tub using a metal cutting circular saw. I did not get very far, but it did no feel like steel to me. |
#30
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I suppose all things are possible, but I bet you end up taking out
or cutting and splicing a couple of studs on one end or the other. (top posted for your convenience) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Keep the whole world singing . . . . DanG (remove the sevens) "Andrew Sarangan" wrote in message 1... Thanks everyone for your help. The trick was to use an 8lb sledge hammer. I am sure a heavy pick axe would have worked too. I was using a much lighter tool. It took about 30 minutes to reduce the bathtub to pieces. It was definitely cast iron, no doubts about it. Now I have to deal with how to get rid of the pieces. Next problem is how to move the new bathtub into place. The wall-to-wall spacing is 60", just the width of the new bathtub. How do I maneuver the tab into place? I was thinking of tilting it against the wall and lowering it into place. But then it occured to me that the tilted length will be longer than 60" if it is a square bottom. If it is a tapered bottom, then it may be ok. Any ideas? "Michael Baugh" wrote in news:sKaNd.17114 : Let's clarify here. A pick like I used is an old one, quite heavy, and has a pointed end on one side, a chisel tip on the other. Mine weighs about 12 pounds without the handle. It is NOT a pick axe, which is like the tool firemen use. A SERIOUS pick would not have been able to have its point bent by what you were doing. "Andrew Sarangan" wrote in message 1... I don't know what you guys are talking about. I whacked it with a pick axe. Many blows at maximum strength. It made several small dents on the surface, and even made a through hole about 1/4" diameter. But no major cracks. The only thing that broke was the tip of my pick axe. I am pretty certain that this is not a steel tub. I am hitting it along the outside surface, which allows me to get a full swing on the axe. I can't hit it from the inside surface bacause I can't get a full swing inside the bathtub. Obviously I am doing something wrong, but I can't figure out what. "DanG" wrote in news:_w6Nd.934$Zr.354 @okepread03: It is still sounding like a cast iron tub. A full swing on the outside of the tub with an eight pound or greater sledge hammer should shatter it. This thing is going to break more like a piece of glass than a piece of concrete. It is not going to develop little cracks that you keep hitting. Same stuff as a cast iron skillet. (top posted for your convenience) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Keep the whole world singing . . . . DanG (remove the sevens) wrote in message oups.com... dadiOH wrote: Andrew Sarangan wrote: hi guys I bought a pick axe as suggested by some people here, covered the bathtub with a tarp, and tried to break it. No joy. Every time I banged it, the porcelain broke off, but there was no sign of damage to the metal underneath. What am I doing wrong? Am I not hitting it hard enough? Did it dent at all? If so, the tub is steel, not cast iron. Cast iron breaks, steel won't. It did not dent, but there were small chips were it was struck. I didn't feel that those chips were large enough to cause a crack. Can I tell from the color whether it is steel? It is a dull grey metal. Also, I did manage to cut tub using a metal cutting circular saw. I did not get very far, but it did no feel like steel to me. |
#31
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"Andrew Sarangan" wrote in message 1... Thanks everyone for your help. The trick was to use an 8lb sledge hammer. I am sure a heavy pick axe would have worked too. I was using a much lighter tool. It took about 30 minutes to reduce the bathtub to pieces. It was definitely cast iron, no doubts about it. Now I have to deal with how to get rid of the pieces. Next problem is how to move the new bathtub into place. The wall-to-wall spacing is 60", just the width of the new bathtub. How do I maneuver the tab into place? I was thinking of tilting it against the wall and lowering it into place. But then it occured to me that the tilted length will be longer than 60" if it is a square bottom. If it is a tapered bottom, then it may be ok. Any ideas? 1. Measure the door. In many bathrooms, especially older ones, door is too narrow to get tub in w/o de-installing door all the way to rough opening, and sometimes even then. Bathroom is built around tub, often including having to pull a couple studs during framing to make a hole big enough. And if you have a skinny hallway or stairs, they can also be roadblocks. 2. Look at tub out in the garage or driveway, and figure out where the 'legs' are that hold the weight. There may be a template on the box it came in. Now go look at the gaping hole in bathroom, and figure out where the weight is going to rest. Is it solid (right over a joist), or is it just plywood, or even a hole there? Add blocking, etc, as appropriate. At the same time, double check to make sure the drain stub and such are in the right place. (it would really suck to drop tub in, and drain is an inch off...) Tub needs a strong and level place to sit. Is new tub cast iron? If not, it may need a puddle of mortar or something to bed in, to feel solid. The box should say. 3. With some tubs, you can add a 2x2 rail to studs to stiffen the tub flange and catch some of the weight. Again, it has to be level. Blocking between studs to catch wall edge, provide something to fasten lip to, and stiffen wall, is also a good idea. Good time to insulate wall behind tub, for sound or temp control, especially if it is on an outside wall. 4. As to dropping it in place- you basically want it flat on floor in front of opening, and slide straight back. Maybe pick up on back edge a little, to drop it tight against wall. This is one of those things that there is no easy way to do it, especially if it is heavy cast iron. Even with steel or plastic, a lot easier with 2 big strong guys with long arms. Go slow and discuss each move- don't want fingers beween tub and a hard place. 5. Be careful not to chip it as you place it or fasten it to wall, and use the cardboard cutout on box to make protective shield for flange and tub bottom. If you drop wrench or whatever later, and it chips the porcelain, you will cuss and cry. HTH. aem sends.... |
#32
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Andrew Sarangan wrote:
Next problem is how to move the new bathtub into place. The wall-to-wall spacing is 60", just the width of the new bathtub. How do I maneuver the tab into place? I was thinking of tilting it against the wall and lowering it into place. But then it occured to me that the tilted length will be longer than 60" if it is a square bottom. If it is a tapered bottom, then it may be ok. Any ideas? Still another point in favor of showers over tubs. -- dadiOH ____________________________ dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico |
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TS Extension Table and Cast Iron Wing | Woodworking | |||
Req'd: Cast Iron Soil Pipe bracket and Cast Iron>Plastic fittings | UK diy | |||
Cast Iron sewer -- Is it a hazard? | Home Ownership | |||
Special Bolts for Cast Iron bath feet | UK diy | |||
Cleaning outside of Cast Iron bath for Painting | UK diy |