Home Repair (alt.home.repair) For all homeowners and DIYers with many experienced tradesmen. Solve your toughest home fix-it problems.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
Old February 14th 20, 03:23 PM posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Sep 2019
Posts: 423
Default Questions about roof repair/replacment.

I need a new roof, or a repair of the old one.

The shingles are still very good. One plywood sheet is sagging an inch
at the top. The recommended repair is just the ridge rail, the fan, one
sheet of plywood, and the shingles above it. Why not just repair it and
then replace the whole roof in 5 or 10 years. (The roof is 13 years old
now) (Shingles used to patch it likely won't perfectly match what's
there now, and though I don't spend much time looking at roofs, I don't
recall anyone else here with unmatched shingles, and I don't rmember it
being a violation of any HOA rule.)

Is there any problem mixing 1/2" plywood with 3/8"? Will it look
funny from the ground? I think it has 3/8" now, going back to 1979.
(It's not the problematic fire-resistant.)

Is there a point to putting shingles over the ridge vent? Does it make
a plastic ridge vent last appreciably longer?

One roofer is suggesting architectural shingles.
Are they made out of a different material or are they just thicker?
Their shape, alternate wide and narrow, will clash with my next-door
attached townhouse (and every house in the n'hood.) Would any of you
care about that?
He says it's guaranteed for 50 years, transferrable to next owner. Is
that as good as it sounds, or will the next roofer say the warranty is
void** because the plywood is soft after 70 years (most of it is 40
years old now and 30 years from now, long before the 50 year warranty is
over, it will be 70 years old.) **OR, the warranty is good but it
doesn't matter because we have to rip off the warranted shingles to
replace the plywood and we can't reuse the shingles.


Is there a problem using a roof fan that is larger than necessary?
Any experience with the GAF fan that has WiFi/Bluetooth remote control?
Is it of any use? I have full width soffitt vents in the front and back
of a townhouse.
(Let's not do one more round of telling me I don't need a roof fan.
Every time I mention the fan, people claim I don't need it but my
experience is different, my mind is made up, and by now it's just
annoying.)



  #2   Report Post  
Old February 14th 20, 04:01 PM posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Feb 2020
Posts: 1
Default Questions about roof repair/replacment.

On 2/14/20 9:23 AM, micky wrote:
I need a new roof, or a repair of the old one.


Have you considered calling Jasper Roofing for a quote?
I don't have their number handy but they're located next door to Jasper Towing.
  #3   Report Post  
Old February 14th 20, 04:15 PM posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Sep 2018
Posts: 1,000
Default Questions about roof repair/replacment.

On 2/14/2020 9:23 AM, micky wrote:
I need a new roof, or a repair of the old one.

The shingles are still very good. One plywood sheet is sagging an inch
at the top. The recommended repair is just the ridge rail, the fan, one
sheet of plywood, and the shingles above it. Why not just repair it and
then replace the whole roof in 5 or 10 years. (The roof is 13 years old
now) (Shingles used to patch it likely won't perfectly match what's
there now, and though I don't spend much time looking at roofs, I don't
recall anyone else here with unmatched shingles, and I don't rmember it
being a violation of any HOA rule.)

Is there any problem mixing 1/2" plywood with 3/8"? Will it look
funny from the ground? I think it has 3/8" now, going back to 1979.
(It's not the problematic fire-resistant.)

Is there a point to putting shingles over the ridge vent? Does it make
a plastic ridge vent last appreciably longer?

One roofer is suggesting architectural shingles.
Are they made out of a different material or are they just thicker?
Their shape, alternate wide and narrow, will clash with my next-door
attached townhouse (and every house in the n'hood.) Would any of you
care about that?
He says it's guaranteed for 50 years, transferrable to next owner. Is
that as good as it sounds, or will the next roofer say the warranty is
void** because the plywood is soft after 70 years (most of it is 40
years old now and 30 years from now, long before the 50 year warranty is
over, it will be 70 years old.) **OR, the warranty is good but it
doesn't matter because we have to rip off the warranted shingles to
replace the plywood and we can't reuse the shingles.


Is there a problem using a roof fan that is larger than necessary?
Any experience with the GAF fan that has WiFi/Bluetooth remote control?
Is it of any use? I have full width soffitt vents in the front and back
of a townhouse.
(Let's not do one more round of telling me I don't need a roof fan.
Every time I mention the fan, people claim I don't need it but my
experience is different, my mind is made up, and by now it's just
annoying.)


Either way can work, I'd base my decision on dollars. At 13 years you
can have from 5 to 10 years left on the shingles. If the fix is cheap
enough it is a good way to go, but if it is getting close to half the
cost of new, I'd go with new and be done.

Architectural shingles are heavier and will last longer. Regular
shingles should last about 20 years. Will you last 20 years? I know at
my age I want the job to last as long as I do so I don't have to play
with it when I'm 87 if I last that long.

As for appearance of the architectural, take a ride around the
neighborhood to see what others have done. Or you can be the pioneer
starting a new trend.

I'd not oversize the fan by much. You need ventilation, not a
hurricane pulling stuff through. No real benefit
  #4   Report Post  
Old February 14th 20, 04:37 PM posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Mar 2014
Posts: 13,185
Default Questions about roof repair/replacment.

On Friday, February 14, 2020 at 9:23:15 AM UTC-5, micky wrote:
I need a new roof, or a repair of the old one.

The shingles are still very good. One plywood sheet is sagging an inch
at the top. The recommended repair is just the ridge rail,


What's a ridge rail? You mean ridge vent?


the fan, one
sheet of plywood, and the shingles above it. Why not just repair it and
then replace the whole roof in 5 or 10 years.


What was identified as the cause of this problem?




(The roof is 13 years old
now) (Shingles used to patch it likely won't perfectly match what's
there now, and though I don't spend much time looking at roofs, I don't
recall anyone else here with unmatched shingles, and I don't rmember it
being a violation of any HOA rule.)


Probably depends on the color, but they will look better in a couple
years as they weather and blend in.




Is there any problem mixing 1/2" plywood with 3/8"?
Will it look
funny from the ground? I think it has 3/8" now, going back to 1979.
(It's not the problematic fire-resistant.)


I think you're wrong and I doubt 3/8 was permitted. Is the roofer
suggesting to mix? If so, time for a new roofer. What happens if
shingles wind up getting nailed near a transition? And what's the
point to using a different thickness for one section?





Is there a point to putting shingles over the ridge vent? Does it make
a plastic ridge vent last appreciably longer?


The ones I'm familiar with require cap shingles, they are not intended to
be left totally exposed. And it makes it look better, close to a regular
roof with cap shingles.





One roofer is suggesting architectural shingles.


That's the smart one.


Are they made out of a different material or are they just thicker?


Both, probably and they have a different more complicated and nicer
look to them, as well as last longer.


Their shape, alternate wide and narrow, will clash with my next-door
attached townhouse (and every house in the n'hood.) Would any of you
care about that?


That's a problem, you're going to look like a hippie weirdo and the
neighbors will probably kick your ass too.



He says it's guaranteed for 50 years, transferrable to next owner. Is
that as good as it sounds, or will the next roofer say the warranty is
void** because the plywood is soft after 70 years


If the roof is done right, vented right, shingles replaced before they
fail, the plywood should not go soft. And the next roofer isn't going to
say anything about this roofer's warranty, he has nothing to do with it.
If it's a warranty from the manufacturer, they will have to deal with it.


(most of it is 40
years old now and 30 years from now, long before the 50 year warranty is
over, it will be 70 years old.) **OR, the warranty is good but it
doesn't matter because we have to rip off the warranted shingles to
replace the plywood and we can't reuse the shingles.


What specific shingles is in the proposal? What does the manufacturer
say about the lifespan? Architectural last longer, but 50 sounds too
long to me. Is that guarantee from the roofer or the manufacturer
and what exactly does it say? I'd bet that if someone went with a
problem at 30 years, good chance they would find some way not to pay
it. Also, does it cover the shingles and labor or just shingles?






Is there a problem using a roof fan that is larger than necessary?


Yes. If there is insufficient intake openings, it creates excessive
negative pressure in the attic, which will suck cold air from inside
the house into the attic through any available cracks, electric outlets,
etc.




Any experience with the GAF fan that has WiFi/Bluetooth remote control?
Is it of any use?


Yes, to GAF and the installer. When the electronic BS fail in the hot
attic, they get to sell and install a new one.



I have full width soffitt vents in the front and back
of a townhouse.
(Let's not do one more round of telling me I don't need a roof fan.
Every time I mention the fan, people claim I don't need it but my
experience is different, my mind is made up, and by now it's just
annoying.)


Just to be clear, the reason people said no fan is because you have a
ridge vent. With your cooling problem, how much insulation is in
the attic? More insulation into an 80s house would probably have a
reasonable payback time.



  #5   Report Post  
Old February 14th 20, 04:44 PM posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,783
Default Questions about roof repair/replacment.

In article , says...

Either way can work, I'd base my decision on dollars. At 13 years you
can have from 5 to 10 years left on the shingles. If the fix is cheap
enough it is a good way to go, but if it is getting close to half the
cost of new, I'd go with new and be done.




Being a town house there may not be that many shingles involved for the
whole roof. As mentioned, the repair may be a good percentage of the
whole roof.

Be sure to get several estiments. I replaced my shingles of about 28
squares a few years back. The price was 2 bids around $ 8500, one bid
about $ 12,000 and another $ 18,000. I went with the next to the
lowest. They had shingles rated for something like 40 or 50 years like
the others. I think the fellow was low on estimating the size by about
2 squares. I tried to tell him that, but he insisted the satalitte view
of the house and his computer program was right. Sure enough he was off
by that much, but the price was the same. I had rough guessed about 30
squares and I helped one other pull a tape around the house and he said
29 squared. They were here after the satalitte man.
About 8 Mexicans showed up and the head man just looked at the shingles
that had been dropped off the day before and said he did not think there
were enough. At the end of the day he and I were right.


  #6   Report Post  
Old February 14th 20, 08:13 PM posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Nov 2017
Posts: 3,129
Default Questions about roof repair/replacment.

On Fri, 14 Feb 2020 09:23:09 -0500, micky
wrote:

I need a new roof, or a repair of the old one.

The shingles are still very good. One plywood sheet is sagging an inch
at the top. The recommended repair is just the ridge rail, the fan, one
sheet of plywood, and the shingles above it. Why not just repair it and
then replace the whole roof in 5 or 10 years. (The roof is 13 years old
now) (Shingles used to patch it likely won't perfectly match what's
there now, and though I don't spend much time looking at roofs, I don't
recall anyone else here with unmatched shingles, and I don't rmember it
being a violation of any HOA rule.)

Is there any problem mixing 1/2" plywood with 3/8"? Will it look
funny from the ground? I think it has 3/8" now, going back to 1979.
(It's not the problematic fire-resistant.)

Is there a point to putting shingles over the ridge vent? Does it make
a plastic ridge vent last appreciably longer?

One roofer is suggesting architectural shingles.
Are they made out of a different material or are they just thicker?
Their shape, alternate wide and narrow, will clash with my next-door
attached townhouse (and every house in the n'hood.) Would any of you
care about that?
He says it's guaranteed for 50 years, transferrable to next owner. Is
that as good as it sounds, or will the next roofer say the warranty is
void** because the plywood is soft after 70 years (most of it is 40
years old now and 30 years from now, long before the 50 year warranty is
over, it will be 70 years old.) **OR, the warranty is good but it
doesn't matter because we have to rip off the warranted shingles to
replace the plywood and we can't reuse the shingles.


Is there a problem using a roof fan that is larger than necessary?
Any experience with the GAF fan that has WiFi/Bluetooth remote control?
Is it of any use? I have full width soffitt vents in the front and back
of a townhouse.
(Let's not do one more round of telling me I don't need a roof fan.
Every time I mention the fan, people claim I don't need it but my
experience is different, my mind is made up, and by now it's just
annoying.)

Several companiies including Certainteed make a polymer modified
aspheult shingle with a 50 year warranty. They are only madein
architectural style AFAIK. They appear to be an EXCELLENT shingle at a
more reasonanble price than steel. I used Certainteen NorthGate for my
replcement roof this year. They are flexible like rubber and difficult
to tear
  #7   Report Post  
Old February 14th 20, 08:32 PM posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Aug 2015
Posts: 2,623
Default Questions about roof repair/replacment.

On 2/14/2020 10:44 AM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
In article , says...

Either way can work, I'd base my decision on dollars. At 13 years you
can have from 5 to 10 years left on the shingles. If the fix is cheap
enough it is a good way to go, but if it is getting close to half the
cost of new, I'd go with new and be done.




Being a town house there may not be that many shingles involved for the
whole roof. As mentioned, the repair may be a good percentage of the
whole roof.

Be sure to get several estiments. I replaced my shingles of about 28
squares a few years back. The price was 2 bids around $ 8500, one bid
about $ 12,000 and another $ 18,000. I went with the next to the
lowest. They had shingles rated for something like 40 or 50 years like
the others. I think the fellow was low on estimating the size by about
2 squares. I tried to tell him that, but he insisted the satalitte view
of the house and his computer program was right. Sure enough he was off
by that much, but the price was the same. I had rough guessed about 30
squares and I helped one other pull a tape around the house and he said
29 squared. They were here after the satalitte man.
About 8 Mexicans showed up and the head man just looked at the shingles
that had been dropped off the day before and said he did not think there
were enough. At the end of the day he and I were right.


I did not put out bids two years ago and hired the guy that had done my
roof 25 years ago. I did request his bid and from others had a good
idea what to expect and got a great bid. I got 30 year shingles as they
will outlast me. As a contractor there were changes I had not
anticipated like subbing the bulk of the work to a Hispanic crew. I
also had him do new gutters and downspouts and he did a great job.
Unlike the first time he did my roof which was the second one, it was a
tear off and took a few days vs just one day for the second roof. He
also pointed out a couple of slightly low spots due to rafters and
recommended that since they were hardly noticeable and just cosmetic it
was not worthwhile to fix them.
  #8   Report Post  
Old February 14th 20, 09:07 PM posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Feb 2020
Posts: 1
Default Questions about roof repair/replacment.

On 2/14/20 10:01 AM, Jack Legg Roofing LLC wrote:
On 2/14/20 9:23 AM, micky wrote:
I need a new roof, or a repair of the old one.


Have you considered calling Jasper Roofing for a quote?
I don't have their number handy but they're located next door to Jasper Towing.



Is Jasper Roofing CertainTeed SELECT ShingleMaster Credentialed?
  #9   Report Post  
Old February 15th 20, 05:05 PM posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Feb 2017
Posts: 31
Default Questions about roof repair/replacment.

On Friday, February 14, 2020 at 8:23:15 AM UTC-6, micky wrote:
I need a new roof, or a repair of the old one.

The shingles are still very good. One plywood sheet is sagging an inch
at the top. The recommended repair is just the ridge rail, the fan, one
sheet of plywood, and the shingles above it. Why not just repair it and
then replace the whole roof in 5 or 10 years. (The roof is 13 years old
now) (Shingles used to patch it likely won't perfectly match what's
there now, and though I don't spend much time looking at roofs, I don't
recall anyone else here with unmatched shingles, and I don't rmember it
being a violation of any HOA rule.)

Is there any problem mixing 1/2" plywood with 3/8"? Will it look
funny from the ground? I think it has 3/8" now, going back to 1979.
(It's not the problematic fire-resistant.)

Is there a point to putting shingles over the ridge vent? Does it make
a plastic ridge vent last appreciably longer?

One roofer is suggesting architectural shingles.
Are they made out of a different material or are they just thicker?
Their shape, alternate wide and narrow, will clash with my next-door
attached townhouse (and every house in the n'hood.) Would any of you
care about that?
He says it's guaranteed for 50 years, transferrable to next owner. Is
that as good as it sounds, or will the next roofer say the warranty is
void** because the plywood is soft after 70 years (most of it is 40
years old now and 30 years from now, long before the 50 year warranty is
over, it will be 70 years old.) **OR, the warranty is good but it
doesn't matter because we have to rip off the warranted shingles to
replace the plywood and we can't reuse the shingles.


Is there a problem using a roof fan that is larger than necessary?
Any experience with the GAF fan that has WiFi/Bluetooth remote control?
Is it of any use? I have full width soffitt vents in the front and back
of a townhouse.
(Let's not do one more round of telling me I don't need a roof fan.
Every time I mention the fan, people claim I don't need it but my
experience is different, my mind is made up, and by now it's just
annoying.)


Given that you are in a townhome development with rules and regulations, make sure to check that you aren't restricted on type or color of roofing that is allowed.
  #10   Report Post  
Old February 16th 20, 06:43 PM posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Sep 2019
Posts: 423
Default Questions about roof repair/replacment.

In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 14 Feb 2020 09:23:09 -0500, micky
wrote:


I need a new roof, or a repair of the old one.


Another question has come up.

It seems the original roof had 3/8" plywood and one roofer wants to
patch it with some sheets of 1/2" plywood, which he says is better.

The other roofer says it will leave valleys that water will collect in,
and that's bad.

I can certainly see if the thicker stuff is below the thinner stuff,
there would be a 1/8" dip, at an angle** which makes the dip a little
less, and a bit of water would sit there until it evaporated or sunk in,
but isn't the roof supposed to be waterproof?

**Roof is 2:5 I think. Prefab trusses.

Will every replacement sheet of plywood be noticeable from the street,
two stories down, because plywood is 1/8" thicker. Should they use
3/8th to patch 3/8ths?


Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Sharing my DIY AC repair Run Capacitor replacment [email protected] Home Repair 0 June 21st 17 04:00 PM
A/C Replacment or Repair? Don Home Repair 11 July 1st 06 07:02 AM
A/C Replacment or Repair? m Ransley Home Repair 1 June 28th 06 04:37 AM
Replacment Garage Doors Chip Home Ownership 0 April 18th 05 11:20 PM
Baldor vs. Leeson, Unisaw replacment motors. David Eisan Woodworking 7 March 27th 04 05:56 PM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 08:57 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2020, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2004-2020 DIYbanter.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about DIY & home improvement"

 

Copyright © 2017