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| Home Repair (alt.home.repair) For all homeowners and DIYers with many experienced tradesmen. Solve your toughest home fix-it problems. |
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#1
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Why would an engine "gurgle" only after turning it off (and spill coolant?)
What diagnostics can I do to figure out why the coolant gurgles after shutting down? This happened twice over the past two days on a 30 mile trip each way, both days of which were pretty hot at around 90 degrees. Temperature gauge is working as it goes from cold to middle & stays in middle so the car is not overheating. Yet, when I shut down the engine, it "gurgles" a bubbly sound. I can simulate the gurgling sound by squeezing the upper hose, where I can hear the air and fluid moving about. I had filled the coolant tank to the Full level, but it spilled out a cup or two onto the ground when it gurgled. The fluid is "watery" and "brown" so it hasn't been changed in a super long time so that will be the first thing after a flush that I do. I will borrow a pressure tester at the local auto parts store, but that won't tell me if the water pump is working. The belts are intact and the fan spins, so, that doesn't tell me much either. What diagnostics can I do to figure out why the coolant gurgles after shutting down? |
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#2
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Why would an engine "gurgle" only after turning it off (and spill coolant?)
On Fri, 4 Aug 2017 17:29:15 +0000 (UTC), Bram van den Heuvel
wrote: What diagnostics can I do to figure out why the coolant gurgles after shutting down? This happened twice over the past two days on a 30 mile trip each way, both days of which were pretty hot at around 90 degrees. Temperature gauge is working as it goes from cold to middle & stays in middle so the car is not overheating. Yet, when I shut down the engine, it "gurgles" a bubbly sound. I can simulate the gurgling sound by squeezing the upper hose, where I can hear the air and fluid moving about. I had filled the coolant tank to the Full level, but it spilled out a cup or two onto the ground when it gurgled. The fluid is "watery" and "brown" so it hasn't been changed in a super long time so that will be the first thing after a flush that I do. I will borrow a pressure tester at the local auto parts store, but that won't tell me if the water pump is working. The belts are intact and the fan spins, so, that doesn't tell me much either. What diagnostics can I do to figure out why the coolant gurgles after shutting down? Off the top of my head, just guessing in no particular order: Stuck or faulty thermostat (replace) Bad clutch in the fan Ensure the belt is tight enough and not slipping YMMV |
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#3
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Why would an engine "gurgle" only after turning it off (and spillcoolant?)
On 8/4/2017 1:29 PM, Bram van den Heuvel wrote:
What diagnostics can I do to figure out why the coolant gurgles after shutting down? This happened twice over the past two days on a 30 mile trip each way, both days of which were pretty hot at around 90 degrees. [snip] What diagnostics can I do to figure out why the coolant gurgles after shutting down? Maybe combustion chamber gasses leaking into the cooling system? Bad gasket or something cracked/warped? |
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#4
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Why would an engine "gurgle" only after turning it off (and spill coolant?)
On Friday, August 4, 2017 at 12:29:21 PM UTC-5, Bram van den Heuvel wrote:
What diagnostics can I do to figure out why the coolant gurgles after shutting down? This happened twice over the past two days on a 30 mile trip each way, both days of which were pretty hot at around 90 degrees. Temperature gauge is working as it goes from cold to middle & stays in middle so the car is not overheating. Yet, when I shut down the engine, it "gurgles" a bubbly sound. I can simulate the gurgling sound by squeezing the upper hose, where I can hear the air and fluid moving about. I had filled the coolant tank to the Full level, but it spilled out a cup or two onto the ground when it gurgled. The fluid is "watery" and "brown" so it hasn't been changed in a super long time so that will be the first thing after a flush that I do. I will borrow a pressure tester at the local auto parts store, but that won't tell me if the water pump is working. The belts are intact and the fan spins, so, that doesn't tell me much either. What diagnostics can I do to figure out why the coolant gurgles after shutting down? When you come to a stop, rev you engine for a minute to help it cool down. The overflow tank on your cooling system could also be too full. When was the last time you had the cooling system cleaned and flushed? ヽ(ヅ)ノ [8~{} Uncle Cool Monster |
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#5
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Why would an engine "gurgle" only after turning it off (and spill coolant?)
On Fri, 4 Aug 2017 14:43:40 -0400, Dick Schmutz
wrote: What diagnostics can I do to figure out why the coolant gurgles after shutting down? Maybe combustion chamber gasses leaking into the cooling system? Bad gasket or something cracked/warped? I didn't want to mention a blown head gasket. That would likely introduce some oil into the cooling system. OP: Remove the radiator cap when the engine is cold. Crank the engine to see if water is circulating through the radiator (if not the T-stat needs attention if the water pump is not leaking below the shaft). Is there oil in the water? Will you be back to discuss this thread? |
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#6
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Why would an engine "gurgle" only after turning it off (and spill coolant?)
In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 4 Aug 2017 17:29:15 +0000 (UTC), Bram van
den Heuvel wrote: What diagnostics can I do to figure out why the coolant gurgles after shutting down? This happened twice over the past two days on a 30 mile trip each way, both days of which were pretty hot at around 90 degrees. Temperature gauge is working as it goes from cold to middle & stays in middle so the car is not overheating. Yet, when I shut down the engine, it "gurgles" a bubbly sound. I can simulate the gurgling sound by squeezing the upper hose, where I can hear the air and fluid moving about. I had filled the coolant tank to the Full level, but it spilled out a cup or two onto the ground when it gurgled. The fluid is "watery" and "brown" so it hasn't been changed in a super long time so that will be the first thing after a flush that I do. I will borrow a pressure tester at the local auto parts store, but that won't tell me if the water pump is working. The belts are intact and the fan spins, so, that doesn't tell me much either. What diagnostics can I do to figure out why the coolant gurgles after shutting down? I think when the engine is on and the coolant is circulating, it never gets that hot. The heat from the hottest parts of the engine is transferred to a stream** of coolant, but when the coolant stops moving, that which is next to the hottest parts of the engine get hotter than ever. Why this doesn't happen all the time I don't know. **This is similar to the mistake they make in cowboy and adventure movies where they are pulling someone up with a rope that is rubbing against a rock where the rope bends over the edge of the cliff. In the movies, there is a close-up of the rope gooing over the rock, getting more and more frayed. But in reality every moment it's a different part of the rope rubbing the rock so the rock won't ruin the rope. |
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#7
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Why would an engine "gurgle" only after turning it off (and spill coolant?)
Given , Stormin' Norman
wrote: Sounds to me like you might have some partially blocked passages in the engine cooling jacket which is resulting in some trapped air. I suggest you get a reverse power flush of the cooling system and refill it with a high quality coolant / distilled or demineralized water mixture. I suspect your gurgling engine will settle down after that. I ordered a new radiator and hoses and thermostat and gasket after finding this pinhole hairline crack in the plastic neck of the radiator when running a pressure test with the oreilly pressure testing kit. http://img4.imagetitan.com/img.php?i...ing_t ool.jpg This is the pinhole crack http://img4.imagetitan.com/img.php?i...hole_crack.jpg I tried thick expoxy to hold me out until the new radiator arrives http://img4.imagetitan.com/img.php?i..._too_thick.jpg But it was too thick. So I tried thinner epoxy. http://img4.imagetitan.com/img.php?i...nner_epoxy.jpg After sanding and cleaning with MAF cleaner, this thinner stuff stuck. http://img4.imagetitan.com/img.php?i...nd_cleaned.jpg I will pressure test it tomorrow after it has cured for 24 hours http://img4.imagetitan.com/img.php?i..._of_expoxy.jpg Is there any way to test the water pump action better than just watching water go into the upper hose? --- このEメールはアバスト アンチウイルスによりウイルスス* ンされています。 https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
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#8
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Why would an engine "gurgle" only after turning it off (and spill coolant?)
Given , Uncle
Monster wrote: When you come to a stop, rev you engine for a minute to help it cool down. The overflow tank on your cooling system could also be too full. When was the last time you had the cooling system cleaned and flushed? I think the engine has never been "cleaned and flushed". This is what the Toyota red fluid looks like http://img4.imagetitan.com/img.php?i...r_of_fluid.jpg Trying to think of an intelligent way to flush the cooling system, how does this sound as a plan? -1 Open a petcock or block drain bolt and leave it open -2 Remove the thermostat & replace the thermomstat cover loosely -3 Remove the radiator cap & run a garden hose in the radiator neck -4 Run the engine until the fluid draining is clear Does that sound like a workable plan for flushing? What did I miss or what should I do different? --- このEメールはアバスト アンチウイルスによりウイルスス* ンされています。 https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
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#9
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Why would an engine "gurgle" only after turning it off (and spill coolant?)
Given , Oren
wrote: I didn't want to mention a blown head gasket. That would likely introduce some oil into the cooling system. OP: Remove the radiator cap when the engine is cold. Crank the engine to see if water is circulating through the radiator (if not the T-stat needs attention if the water pump is not leaking below the shaft). Is there oil in the water? Will you be back to discuss this thread? This is the color of the fluid which is supposed to be Toyota red. http://img4.imagetitan.com/img.php?i...r_of_fluid.jpg I saw water moving when the engine was running and the radiator cap was removed but is there a good way to test the operation of the water pump? --- このEメールはアバスト アンチウイルスによりウイルスス* ンされています。 https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
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#10
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Why would an engine "gurgle" only after turning it off (and spill coolant?)
Given , Dick Schmutz
wrote: Maybe combustion chamber gasses leaking into the cooling system? Bad gasket or something cracked/warped? The radiator cap has 0.9 embossed on it which I guess means 0.9 bar, which I guess means 0.9 times 14.7 which is about 13-1/4 PSI above atmospheric pressure. The problem was that the pressure tester from oreillys doesn't seem to come with an adaptor that fits my cap so I couldn't test the cap. http://img4.imagetitan.com/img.php?i...p_pressure.jpg --- このEメールはアバスト アンチウイルスによりウイルスス* ンされています。 https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
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#11
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Why would an engine "gurgle" only after turning it off (and spill coolant?)
Given , Oren
wrote: Off the top of my head, just guessing in no particular order: Stuck or faulty thermostat (replace) Bad clutch in the fan Ensure the belt is tight enough and not slipping I found the problem by borrowing a pressure tester from oreillys! It was a hairline crack at the plastic neck of the radiator. http://img4.imagetitan.com/img.php?i...hole_crack.jpg --- このEメールはアバスト アンチウイルスによりウイルスス* ンされています。 https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
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#12
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Why would an engine "gurgle" only after turning it off (and spill coolant?)
On Saturday, August 5, 2017 at 12:35:32 AM UTC-5, Bram van den Heuvel wrote:
Given , Uncle Monster wrote: When you come to a stop, rev you engine for a minute to help it cool down. The overflow tank on your cooling system could also be too full. When was the last time you had the cooling system cleaned and flushed? I think the engine has never been "cleaned and flushed". This is what the Toyota red fluid looks like http://img4.imagetitan.com/img.php?i...r_of_fluid.jpg Trying to think of an intelligent way to flush the cooling system, how does this sound as a plan? -1 Open a petcock or block drain bolt and leave it open -2 Remove the thermostat & replace the thermomstat cover loosely -3 Remove the radiator cap & run a garden hose in the radiator neck -4 Run the engine until the fluid draining is clear Does that sound like a workable plan for flushing? What did I miss or what should I do different? --- Here's a link to the website of San Carlos Radiator that gives one of the better explanations about how to go about DIY cleaning of your vehicles cooling system. ヽ(ヅ)ノ http://www.sancarlosradiator.com/VoltageDrop/flush.htm [8~{} Uncle Clean Monster |
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#13
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Why would an engine "gurgle" only after turning it off (and spillcoolant?)
On 08/05/2017 01:35 AM, Bram van den Heuvel wrote:
Given , Oren wrote: Off the top of my head, just guessing in no particular order: Stuck or faulty thermostat (replace) Bad clutch in the fan Ensure the belt is tight enough and not slipping I found the problem by borrowing a pressure tester from oreillys! It was a hairline crack at the plastic neck of the radiator. http://img4.imagetitan.com/img.php?i...hole_crack.jpg --- このEメールはアバスト アンチウイルスによりウイルスス* ンされています。 https://www.avast.com/antivirus What caused it to crack? Excess pressure, flexing or just old age? |
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#14
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Why would an engine "gurgle" only after turning it off (and spill coolant?)
Given aweb.com, Jess
Guessing wrote: What caused it to crack? Excess pressure, flexing or just old age? The radiator is the OEM radiator on a 1990's vintage Toyota. If they didn't make the top plastic, it would still be working, but two decades is a decent amount of time for a $200 radiator. Unfortunately, the whack-a-mole game failed in that it still lost pressure this morning when I tested the epoxy temporary repair (until the parts arrive). http://img4.imagetitan.com/img.php?i...uretestkit.jpg The question is how far can you drive on an unpressurized system? |
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#15
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Why would an engine "gurgle" only after turning it off (and spill coolant?)
Given , Uncle
Monster wrote: Here's a link to the website of San Carlos Radiator that gives one of the better explanations about how to go about DIY cleaning of your vehicles cooling system. ヽ(ヅ)ノ http://www.sancarlosradiator.com/VoltageDrop/flush.htm Thank you for that helpful link which discussed .. Water rinse Not effective in electrolysis, aluminum oxide, or oil contamination .. Tee flush Introduces a weakness into the system that will leak. .. Sodium citrate flush Doesn't really do much. .. Garden hose into lower hose & thermostat removed Works well on the engine but crud remains in the radiator .. L-11 oil milkshake emulsifying flush Works well for oil contamination. .. Engine flush by driving 100 miles over 3 days with a cleaning mix Works well but requires a drivable vehicle Use 420CF for Electrolysis, Rust, Dexcool muck, or Silicate Drop-out. .. Lowerhose drop flush (remove lower hose on a hot engine) Dangerous to getting burned .. Sump-pump flush Takes Time, Temperature, Chemistry, Agitation and Settling into account. One non-flush question I have for those who are experienced with cars is what are the ramifications of driving with an unpressurized system? http://img4.imagetitan.com/img.php?i...orningleak.jpg I tested it this morning and it still leaked around the neck in a different spot, which I duly epoxied but I have no illusions about playing whackamole. What I just don't know is how much danger there is in driving an unpressurized system? |
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#16
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Why would an engine "gurgle" only after turning it off (and spill coolant?)
On Saturday, August 5, 2017 at 10:00:43 AM UTC-4, Bram van den Heuvel wrote:
Given aweb.com, Jess Guessing wrote: What caused it to crack? Excess pressure, flexing or just old age? The radiator is the OEM radiator on a 1990's vintage Toyota. If they didn't make the top plastic, it would still be working, but two decades is a decent amount of time for a $200 radiator. If they made it of metal it probably would have corroded and failed sooner. Plus it and it's replacement would have costed more. Unfortunately, the whack-a-mole game failed in that it still lost pressure this morning when I tested the epoxy temporary repair (until the parts arrive). http://img4.imagetitan.com/img.php?i...uretestkit.jpg The question is how far can you drive on an unpressurized system? Depends on ambient temperature, how hard the drive, and percent antifreeze. |
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#17
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Why would an engine "gurgle" only after turning it off (and spillcoolant?)
On 8/5/2017 10:00 AM, Bram van den Heuvel wrote:
The question is how far can you drive on an unpressurized system? There are too many factors (vehicle speed, engine load, ambient air temperature) to determine if it's safe. The overheat risk and resultant engine damage may not be worth it. YMMV |
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#18
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Why would an engine "gurgle" only after turning it off (and spill coolant?)
On Saturday, August 5, 2017 at 11:08:36 AM UTC-4, Jon Doe wrote:
On 8/5/2017 10:00 AM, Bram van den Heuvel wrote: The question is how far can you drive on an unpressurized system? There are too many factors (vehicle speed, engine load, ambient air temperature) to determine if it's safe. The overheat risk and resultant engine damage may not be worth it. YMMV +1 If it's a minor leak and local, easy driving, I would do it. Crossing Death Valley pulling a trailer, probably not. |
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#19
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Why would an engine "gurgle" only after turning it off (and spill coolant?)
Given ,
trader_4 wrote: If it's a minor leak and local, easy driving, I would do it. Crossing Death Valley pulling a trailer, probably not. I agree that going up a mountain or crossing a desert or a long 100 mile trip might be pushing my luck, but I'm asking technically what happens if we drive, essentially, with the radiator cap off. Assuming everything else is working fine, the only difference I can think of is that the pressure of the system above ambient is zero psi compared to about 1 atmosphere. That lowers the boiling point of pure water to 212 degrees, where a 50:50 mixture of coolant would be something higher than 212 degrees. But how hot does an engine typically get? Isn't an engine coolant generally around 200 degrees F? |
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#20
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Why would an engine "gurgle" only after turning it off (and spill coolant?)
Given , Jon Doe
wrote: There are too many factors (vehicle speed, engine load, ambient air temperature) to determine if it's safe. The overheat risk and resultant engine damage may not be worth it. YMMV But that doesn't answer the question. The question is what happens when you drive unpressurized. All I can think of is that the boiling point is lowered. Most engines keep the temperature around the 200 F degree mark, I think, where even plain water wouldn't boil. What's the boiling point of unpressurized 50:50 coolant? |
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#21
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Why would an engine "gurgle" only after turning it off (and spill coolant?)
On Sat, 5 Aug 2017 14:15:19 +0000 (UTC), Bram van den Heuvel
wrote: Given , Uncle Monster wrote: Here's a link to the website of San Carlos Radiator that gives one of the better explanations about how to go about DIY cleaning of your vehicles cooling system. ?(?)? http://www.sancarlosradiator.com/VoltageDrop/flush.htm Thank you for that helpful link which discussed . Water rinse Not effective in electrolysis, aluminum oxide, or oil contamination . Tee flush Introduces a weakness into the system that will leak. . Sodium citrate flush Doesn't really do much. . Garden hose into lower hose & thermostat removed Works well on the engine but crud remains in the radiator . L-11 oil milkshake emulsifying flush Works well for oil contamination. . Engine flush by driving 100 miles over 3 days with a cleaning mix Works well but requires a drivable vehicle Use 420CF for Electrolysis, Rust, Dexcool muck, or Silicate Drop-out. . Lowerhose drop flush (remove lower hose on a hot engine) Dangerous to getting burned . Sump-pump flush Takes Time, Temperature, Chemistry, Agitation and Settling into account. One non-flush question I have for those who are experienced with cars is what are the ramifications of driving with an unpressurized system? http://img4.imagetitan.com/img.php?i...orningleak.jpg I tested it this morning and it still leaked around the neck in a different spot, which I duly epoxied but I have no illusions about playing whackamole. What I just don't know is how much danger there is in driving an unpressurized system? flushing Does yor heater get hot enough? Videos on flushing the heater core (reverse flush) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M9SIafVsqyc ....and how to unclog a heater core https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dcL_0TWeZJY |
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#22
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Why would an engine "gurgle" only after turning it off (and spill coolant?)
On Sat, 5 Aug 2017 16:19:18 +0000 (UTC), Bram van den Heuvel
wrote: The question is what happens when you drive unpressurized. I've done so with no problem. A faulty radiator cap...loosened half way. Don't recall how long I drove it this way until I got a new cap. This was and older vehicle so I can't speak to new cars. |
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#23
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Why would an engine "gurgle" only after turning it off (and spill coolant?)
On Saturday, August 5, 2017 at 12:19:24 PM UTC-4, Bram van den Heuvel wrote:
Given , trader_4 wrote: If it's a minor leak and local, easy driving, I would do it. Crossing Death Valley pulling a trailer, probably not. I agree that going up a mountain or crossing a desert or a long 100 mile trip might be pushing my luck, but I'm asking technically what happens if we drive, essentially, with the radiator cap off. Assuming everything else is working fine, the only difference I can think of is that the pressure of the system above ambient is zero psi compared to about 1 atmosphere. That lowers the boiling point of pure water to 212 degrees, where a 50:50 mixture of coolant would be something higher than 212 degrees. But how hot does an engine typically get? Isn't an engine coolant generally around 200 degrees F? Modern engines run hotter, I'd say they can easily be close to 212F. That's why you need 50 50 antifreeze. And that's the overall average temp, not the localized temp in the hottest spots in the engine. |
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#24
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Why would an engine "gurgle" only after turning it off (and spillcoolant?)
On 8/5/2017 12:19 PM, Bram van den Heuvel wrote:
That lowers the boiling point of pure water to 212 degrees, where a 50:50 mixture of coolant would be something higher than 212 degrees. 223 degrees But how hot does an engine typically get? Isn't an engine coolant generally around 200 degrees F? Thermostat is usually 195 degrees but they will run hotter in summer with AC on. That is why they are pressurized. With 50-50 mix and pressure you can go to 250 before boiling. |
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#25
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Why would an engine "gurgle" only after turning it off (and spillcoolant?)
On 8/5/2017 1:16 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 5 Aug 2017 16:19:18 +0000 (UTC), Bram van den Heuvel wrote: The question is what happens when you drive unpressurized. I've done so with no problem. A faulty radiator cap...loosened half way. Don't recall how long I drove it this way until I got a new cap. This was and older vehicle so I can't speak to new cars. Some older cars had 185 degree thermostats too. I've done it with a few older cars too and around town or a short ride it was no problem. I had a Corvair that I drove with no water at all and it never overheated. |
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#26
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Why would an engine "gurgle" only after turning it off (and spillcoolant?)
On 8/5/17 9:00 AM, Bram van den Heuvel wrote:
Given aweb.com, Jess Guessing wrote: What caused it to crack? Excess pressure, flexing or just old age? The radiator is the OEM radiator on a 1990's vintage Toyota. If they didn't make the top plastic, it would still be working, but two decades is a decent amount of time for a $200 radiator. Unfortunately, the whack-a-mole game failed in that it still lost pressure this morning when I tested the epoxy temporary repair (until the parts arrive). http://img4.imagetitan.com/img.php?i...uretestkit.jpg The question is how far can you drive on an unpressurized system? Irrigation power units sometimes had a cooling coil instead of a radiator. The cooling coils had caps but weren't really intentionally pressurized. They worked fine as long as they had coolant. The thermostats were probably in the 185 degree range. Picture he http://www.nebraskairrigation.com/secure/waterdistributioncomponents/coolingcoil.php The cooling coils are one pipe inside of another. The cold irrigation water runs through the center pipe. (not visible) The engine coolant circulates through the outside pipe then back to the engine. |
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#27
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Why would an engine "gurgle" only after turning it off (and spill coolant?)
On Sat, 5 Aug 2017 13:49:38 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
I had a Corvair that I drove with no water at all and it never overheated. Good one, Ed. |
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#28
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Why would an engine "gurgle" only after turning it off (and spillcoolant?)
On 8/5/2017 2:33 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 5 Aug 2017 13:49:38 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote: I had a Corvair that I drove with no water at all and it never overheated. Good one, Ed. thanks. Some of the younger ones here probably don't know what a Corvair is. |
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#29
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Why would an engine "gurgle" only after turning it off (and spill coolant?)
On Sat, 5 Aug 2017 08:21:33 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote: On Saturday, August 5, 2017 at 11:08:36 AM UTC-4, Jon Doe wrote: On 8/5/2017 10:00 AM, Bram van den Heuvel wrote: The question is how far can you drive on an unpressurized system? There are too many factors (vehicle speed, engine load, ambient air temperature) to determine if it's safe. The overheat risk and resultant engine damage may not be worth it. YMMV +1 If it's a minor leak and local, easy driving, I would do it. Crossing Death Valley pulling a trailer, probably not. Death Valley recent trivia. _Death Valley had hottest month ever in Western Hemisphere in July_ https://www.reviewjournal.com/weather/death-valley-had-hottest-month-ever-in-western-hemisphere-in-july/ You can die out there if you pull off the road and get stuck. Its happened before. You need water. |
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#30
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Why would an engine "gurgle" only after turning it off (and spill coolant?)
On Sat, 5 Aug 2017 14:55:43 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 8/5/2017 2:33 PM, Oren wrote: On Sat, 5 Aug 2017 13:49:38 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote: I had a Corvair that I drove with no water at all and it never overheated. Good one, Ed. thanks. Some of the younger ones here probably don't know what a Corvair is. My VW bug ran cooler during heavy rains. A model T and a Jeep cooled when running in Florida swamp water with water up to the floor boards. |
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#31
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Why would an engine "gurgle" only after turning it off (and spill coolant?)
On Saturday, August 5, 2017 at 1:55:46 PM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 8/5/2017 2:33 PM, Oren wrote: On Sat, 5 Aug 2017 13:49:38 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote: I had a Corvair that I drove with no water at all and it never overheated. Good one, Ed. thanks. Some of the younger ones here probably don't know what a Corvair is. Heck, I think VW Beetles have liquid cooled engines now. I'm unsafe at any speed. ヽ(ヅ)ノ [8~{} Uncle Airy Monster |
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#32
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Why would an engine "gurgle" only after turning it off (and spill coolant?)
On Sat, 5 Aug 2017 12:21:04 -0700 (PDT), Uncle Monster
wrote: On Saturday, August 5, 2017 at 1:55:46 PM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote: On 8/5/2017 2:33 PM, Oren wrote: On Sat, 5 Aug 2017 13:49:38 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote: I had a Corvair that I drove with no water at all and it never overheated. Good one, Ed. thanks. Some of the younger ones here probably don't know what a Corvair is. Heck, I think VW Beetles have liquid cooled engines now. I'm unsafe at any speed. ?(?)? [8~{} Uncle Airy Monster Even some motorcycles are liquid cooled now. |
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#33
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Why would an engine "gurgle" only after turning it off (and spill coolant?)
On Sat, 5 Aug 2017 14:00:33 +0000 (UTC), Bram van den Heuvel
wrote: Given aweb.com, Jess Guessing wrote: What caused it to crack? Excess pressure, flexing or just old age? The radiator is the OEM radiator on a 1990's vintage Toyota. If they didn't make the top plastic, it would still be working, but two decades is a decent amount of time for a $200 radiator. Unfortunately, the whack-a-mole game failed in that it still lost pressure this morning when I tested the epoxy temporary repair (until the parts arrive). http://img4.imagetitan.com/img.php?i...uretestkit.jpg The question is how far can you drive on an unpressurized system? As long as it doesn't het over about 210F, forever. |
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#34
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Why would an engine "gurgle" only after turning it off (and spill coolant?)
On Sat, 5 Aug 2017 14:15:19 +0000 (UTC), Bram van den Heuvel
wrote: Given , Uncle Monster wrote: Here's a link to the website of San Carlos Radiator that gives one of the better explanations about how to go about DIY cleaning of your vehicles cooling system. ?(?)? http://www.sancarlosradiator.com/VoltageDrop/flush.htm Thank you for that helpful link which discussed . Water rinse Not effective in electrolysis, aluminum oxide, or oil contamination . Tee flush Introduces a weakness into the system that will leak. . Sodium citrate flush Doesn't really do much. . Garden hose into lower hose & thermostat removed Works well on the engine but crud remains in the radiator . L-11 oil milkshake emulsifying flush Works well for oil contamination. . Engine flush by driving 100 miles over 3 days with a cleaning mix Works well but requires a drivable vehicle Use 420CF for Electrolysis, Rust, Dexcool muck, or Silicate Drop-out. . Lowerhose drop flush (remove lower hose on a hot engine) Dangerous to getting burned . Sump-pump flush Takes Time, Temperature, Chemistry, Agitation and Settling into account. One non-flush question I have for those who are experienced with cars is what are the ramifications of driving with an unpressurized system? http://img4.imagetitan.com/img.php?i...orningleak.jpg I tested it this morning and it still leaked around the neck in a different spot, which I duly epoxied but I have no illusions about playing whackamole. What I just don't know is how much danger there is in driving an unpressurized system? As long as it doesn't overheat, there is no danger. I have often driven a LONG ways with a pinhole in a hose, for instance, by simply putting the cap on loose and leaving 1n inch or 2 of headroom in the rad to get home for a repair. All the pressurization does is allow you to run hotter than 210-212F, and keeps the coolant from evaporating. |
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#35
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Why would an engine "gurgle" only after turning it off (and spill coolant?)
On Sat, 5 Aug 2017 16:19:18 +0000 (UTC), Bram van den Heuvel
wrote: Given , Jon Doe wrote: There are too many factors (vehicle speed, engine load, ambient air temperature) to determine if it's safe. The overheat risk and resultant engine damage may not be worth it. YMMV But that doesn't answer the question. The question is what happens when you drive unpressurized. All I can think of is that the boiling point is lowered. Most engines keep the temperature around the 200 F degree mark, I think, where even plain water wouldn't boil. What's the boiling point of unpressurized 50:50 coolant? About 225F at .96 bar |
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#36
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Why would an engine "gurgle" only after turning it off (and spill coolant?)
On Sat, 05 Aug 2017 11:33:21 -0700, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 5 Aug 2017 13:49:38 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote: I had a Corvair that I drove with no water at all and it never overheated. Good one, Ed. My old VW only overheated a bit with no water when it was 115F out - - - |
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#37
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Why would an engine "gurgle" only after turning it off (and spill coolant?)
On Saturday, August 5, 2017 at 2:31:14 PM UTC-5, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 5 Aug 2017 12:21:04 -0700 (PDT), Uncle Monster wrote: On Saturday, August 5, 2017 at 1:55:46 PM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote: On 8/5/2017 2:33 PM, Oren wrote: On Sat, 5 Aug 2017 13:49:38 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote: I had a Corvair that I drove with no water at all and it never overheated. Good one, Ed. thanks. Some of the younger ones here probably don't know what a Corvair is. Heck, I think VW Beetles have liquid cooled engines now. I'm unsafe at any speed. ?(?)? [8~{} Uncle Airy Monster Even some motorcycles are liquid cooled now. "Unsafe At Any Speed" I guess you missed my historical reference? ヽ(ヅ)ノ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unsafe_at_Any_Speed [8~{} Uncle Unsafe Monster |
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#38
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Why would an engine "gurgle" only after turning it off (and spillcoolant?)
On 8/5/2017 4:50 PM, Uncle Monster wrote:
thanks. Some of the younger ones here probably don't know what a Corvair is. Heck, I think VW Beetles have liquid cooled engines now. I'm unsafe at any speed. ?(?)? [8~{} Uncle Airy Monster Even some motorcycles are liquid cooled now. "Unsafe At Any Speed" I guess you missed my historical reference? ヽ(ヅ)ノ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unsafe_at_Any_Speed [8~{} Uncle Unsafe Monster I take issue with Nader. I had a '62 Monza with 7.00 x 13 tires and it handled very well. With snow tires I could go anywhere in winter too. It ws one of my all time fun crs to drive. |
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#39
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Why would an engine "gurgle" only after turning it off (and spill coolant?)
Given ,
wrote: What's the boiling point of unpressurized 50:50 coolant? About 225F at .96 bar Thanks Clare and Ed, for those numbers (where Ed said 223F which is close enough to 225 that I'll use the 225 figure). So, with the cap off, the 50:50 coolant boils at 225 degrees. With a pressurized system, Ed says we can go to 250 before boiling. The thermostat has a 180 degree opening point. If I assume that the coolant is designed to be at around 200 degrees, plus or minus 10 degrees, that means an unpressurized system should work just fine for light loads since the coolant stays below the boiling point of water, at least on average. I think what was happening was that locally, in hotspots, the coolant was boiling since it was no longer pressurized. Does that logic make sense? |
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#40
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Why would an engine "gurgle" only after turning it off (and spill coolant?)
On Saturday, August 5, 2017 at 4:35:05 PM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 8/5/2017 4:50 PM, Uncle Monster wrote: thanks. Some of the younger ones here probably don't know what a Corvair is. Heck, I think VW Beetles have liquid cooled engines now. I'm unsafe at any speed. ?(?)? [8~{} Uncle Airy Monster Even some motorcycles are liquid cooled now. "Unsafe At Any Speed" I guess you missed my historical reference? ヽ(ヅ)ノ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unsafe_at_Any_Speed [8~{} Uncle Unsafe Monster I take issue with Nader. I had a '62 Monza with 7.00 x 13 tires and it handled very well. With snow tires I could go anywhere in winter too. It ws one of my all time fun crs to drive. It's my understanding that when the Corvair rear suspension was redesigned to be fully independent and put into production, it was superior to that of the Corvette. I don't remember driving a Corvair or even being a passenger in one. My family owned a Dodge Dart and Plymouth Valiant of that era. ヽ(ヅ)ノ [8~{} Uncle Darting Monster |
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