I am in the process installing a new dishwasher and garbage disposal. My
plan is to run one new circuit to power both. The plan is to use 12/2 NM
wire.

Is it okay to use one dedicated circuit to wire both a dishwasher and a
garbage disposal?

P.S. Even though I will be using 12/2 NM wire, my plan is to use a 15-amp
circuit breaker for that circuit. I do know that with 12/2 wire, I could
use a 20-am circuit breaker, but I have a personal preference for using 15
amp circuit breakers on 12/2 wiring except when the circuit is required to
have a 20 amp circuit breaker.

On 8/31/2016 7:31 PM, TomR wrote:
I am in the process installing a new dishwasher and garbage disposal.
My plan is to run one new circuit to power both. The plan is to use
12/2 NM wire.

Is it okay to use one dedicated circuit to wire both a dishwasher and a
garbage disposal?

P.S. Even though I will be using 12/2 NM wire, my plan is to use a
15-amp circuit breaker for that circuit. I do know that with 12/2 wire,
I could use a 20-am circuit breaker, but I have a personal preference
for using 15 amp circuit breakers on 12/2 wiring except when the circuit
is required to have a 20 amp circuit breaker.



I don't know about code. but mine have been wired like that for 35 years
now. In my case there is a surface mounted duplex receptacle in the
sink base. Both appliances have a cord plugged into it. If you have
to work on them you can just unplug.

On 8/31/2016 7:31 PM, TomR wrote:
I am in the process installing a new dishwasher and garbage disposal.
My plan is to run one new circuit to power both. The plan is to use
12/2 NM wire.

Is it okay to use one dedicated circuit to wire both a dishwasher and a
garbage disposal?

P.S. Even though I will be using 12/2 NM wire, my plan is to use a
15-amp circuit breaker for that circuit. I do know that with 12/2 wire,
I could use a 20-am circuit breaker, but I have a personal preference
for using 15 amp circuit breakers on 12/2 wiring except when the circuit
is required to have a 20 amp circuit breaker.



It is recommended to put the GD and dishwasher on it's own 15 amp
circuit or use a 20 amp circuit if you want to put them both together.

The average DW can pull 10 amps and the GD can be between 4 and 8 amps.
If running the DW and turning the GD on, you will most likely trip the
breaker at 15 amps since both will have a spike amp at start up.

On 08/31/2016 07:31 PM, TomR wrote:
I am in the process installing a new dishwasher and garbage disposal. My plan is to run one new circuit to power both. The plan is to use 12/2 NM wire.

Is it okay to use one dedicated circuit to wire both a dishwasher and a garbage disposal?

P.S. Even though I will be using 12/2 NM wire, my plan is to use a 15-amp circuit breaker for that circuit. I do know that with 12/2 wire, I could use a 20-am circuit breaker, but I have a personal preference for using 15 amp circuit
breakers on 12/2 wiring except when the circuit is required to have a 20 amp circuit breaker.



Yah, that's what I did. Dishwasher, disposer and water softener all on one 20A GFCI Square D breaker. Hasn't tripped in 20 years.

On Wednesday, August 31, 2016 at 7:31:15 PM UTC-4, TomR wrote:
I am in the process installing a new dishwasher and garbage disposal. My
plan is to run one new circuit to power both. The plan is to use 12/2 NM
wire.

Is it okay to use one dedicated circuit to wire both a dishwasher and a
garbage disposal?

P.S. Even though I will be using 12/2 NM wire, my plan is to use a 15-amp
circuit breaker for that circuit. I do know that with 12/2 wire, I could
use a 20-am circuit breaker, but I have a personal preference for using 15
amp circuit breakers on 12/2 wiring except when the circuit is required to
have a 20 amp circuit breaker.

If I am not mistaken, the first "authority" on this is the installation
instructions for each appliance. AFAIK, the NEC requires that you follow
the installation instructions provided by the manufacturer. If either of
the instructions say that it must be on a dedicated circuit, then the NEC
essentially says that it must be on a dedicated circuit.

Of course, local code trumps all.

On Wed, 31 Aug 2016 19:31:13 -0400, "TomR" wrote:

I am in the process installing a new dishwasher and garbage disposal. My
plan is to run one new circuit to power both. The plan is to use 12/2 NM
wire.

Is it okay to use one dedicated circuit to wire both a dishwasher and a
garbage disposal?

P.S. Even though I will be using 12/2 NM wire, my plan is to use a 15-amp
circuit breaker for that circuit. I do know that with 12/2 wire, I could
use a 20-am circuit breaker, but I have a personal preference for using 15
amp circuit breakers on 12/2 wiring except when the circuit is required to
have a 20 amp circuit breaker.


The only way you have a chance of it working 100% of the time is if
you use a 20a breaker. That is fine on 12 ga.
The other option is to use 12/3 nm a 2 pole breaker and make a
multiwire circuit with 2 separate 20a circuits. (the most common way
of dealing with this)
Land it in a 4x4 box and use 2 GFCI receptacles to be compliant with
the current code.

"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message
...
On 8/31/2016 7:31 PM, TomR wrote:
I am in the process installing a new dishwasher and garbage disposal.
My plan is to run one new circuit to power both. The plan is to use
12/2 NM wire.

Is it okay to use one dedicated circuit to wire both a dishwasher and a
garbage disposal?

P.S. Even though I will be using 12/2 NM wire, my plan is to use a
15-amp circuit breaker for that circuit. I do know that with 12/2 wire,
I could use a 20-am circuit breaker, but I have a personal preference
for using 15 amp circuit breakers on 12/2 wiring except when the circuit
is required to have a 20 amp circuit breaker.

I don't know about code. but mine have been wired like that for 35 years
now. In my case there is a surface mounted duplex receptacle in the sink
base. Both appliances have a cord plugged into it. If you have to work
on them you can just unplug.


Thanks. I am doing the wiring today. And, overnight, I was thinking that I
should do it as you described that yours is set up -- with a receptacle in
the sink base and have each appliance plugged into the receptacle rather
than directly hardwiring them. So, that's the plan.

wrote in message
...
On Wed, 31 Aug 2016 19:31:13 -0400, "TomR" wrote:

I am in the process installing a new dishwasher and garbage disposal. My
plan is to run one new circuit to power both. The plan is to use 12/2 NM
wire.

Is it okay to use one dedicated circuit to wire both a dishwasher and a
garbage disposal?

P.S. Even though I will be using 12/2 NM wire, my plan is to use a 15-amp
circuit breaker for that circuit. I do know that with 12/2 wire, I could
use a 20-am circuit breaker, but I have a personal preference for using 15
amp circuit breakers on 12/2 wiring except when the circuit is required to
have a 20 amp circuit breaker.

The only way you have a chance of it working 100% of the time is if
you use a 20a breaker. That is fine on 12 ga.
The other option is to use 12/3 nm a 2 pole breaker and make a
multiwire circuit with 2 separate 20a circuits. (the most common way
of dealing with this)
Land it in a 4x4 box and use 2 GFCI receptacles to be compliant with
the current code.

Thanks. I'll use a 20-amp breaker since it is 12 ga. wire. And, I am going
to set it up so each appliance plugs in rather than hardwiring the
appliances. I already ran the 12/2, so I am going to skip the option of
using 12/3 and a double pole breaker.

On Thursday, September 1, 2016 at 6:49:06 AM UTC-4, TomR wrote:
wrote in message
...
On Wed, 31 Aug 2016 19:31:13 -0400, "TomR" wrote:

I am in the process installing a new dishwasher and garbage disposal. My
plan is to run one new circuit to power both. The plan is to use 12/2 NM
wire.

Is it okay to use one dedicated circuit to wire both a dishwasher and a
garbage disposal?

P.S. Even though I will be using 12/2 NM wire, my plan is to use a 15-amp
circuit breaker for that circuit. I do know that with 12/2 wire, I could
use a 20-am circuit breaker, but I have a personal preference for using 15
amp circuit breakers on 12/2 wiring except when the circuit is required to
have a 20 amp circuit breaker.

The only way you have a chance of it working 100% of the time is if
you use a 20a breaker. That is fine on 12 ga.
The other option is to use 12/3 nm a 2 pole breaker and make a
multiwire circuit with 2 separate 20a circuits. (the most common way
of dealing with this)
Land it in a 4x4 box and use 2 GFCI receptacles to be compliant with
the current code.

Thanks. I'll use a 20-amp breaker since it is 12 ga. wire. And, I am going
to set it up so each appliance plugs in rather than hardwiring the
appliances. I already ran the 12/2, so I am going to skip the option of
using 12/3 and a double pole breaker.

Which raises the other code question, if it's code compliant to put
a cord and plug on a piece of equipment where it does not come with one
and the install instructions don't say it can be used with a cord.
I think that's come up before and the answer is no. Not saying this
is a big safety issue or anything, just that I think that issue exists.
Gfre?

On Thursday, September 1, 2016 at 8:33:26 AM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Thursday, September 1, 2016 at 6:49:06 AM UTC-4, TomR wrote:
wrote in message
...
On Wed, 31 Aug 2016 19:31:13 -0400, "TomR" wrote:

I am in the process installing a new dishwasher and garbage disposal. My
plan is to run one new circuit to power both. The plan is to use 12/2 NM
wire.

Is it okay to use one dedicated circuit to wire both a dishwasher and a
garbage disposal?

P.S. Even though I will be using 12/2 NM wire, my plan is to use a 15-amp
circuit breaker for that circuit. I do know that with 12/2 wire, I could
use a 20-am circuit breaker, but I have a personal preference for using 15
amp circuit breakers on 12/2 wiring except when the circuit is required to
have a 20 amp circuit breaker.

The only way you have a chance of it working 100% of the time is if
you use a 20a breaker. That is fine on 12 ga.
The other option is to use 12/3 nm a 2 pole breaker and make a
multiwire circuit with 2 separate 20a circuits. (the most common way
of dealing with this)
Land it in a 4x4 box and use 2 GFCI receptacles to be compliant with
the current code.

Thanks. I'll use a 20-amp breaker since it is 12 ga. wire. And, I am going
to set it up so each appliance plugs in rather than hardwiring the
appliances. I already ran the 12/2, so I am going to skip the option of
using 12/3 and a double pole breaker.

Which raises the other code question, if it's code compliant to put
a cord and plug on a piece of equipment where it does not come with one
and the install instructions don't say it can be used with a cord.
I think that's come up before and the answer is no. Not saying this
is a big safety issue or anything, just that I think that issue exists.
Gfre?

"and the install instructions don't say it can be used with a cord."

That can be taken 2 different ways and I wonder if it depends on how it
is worded - or not worded.

If the instructions say "You may not use a cord and plug on this appliance"
then that's easy. The NEC rule says that you must follow the manufacturer's
installation instructions, so you can't use a cord and plug. That's pretty
clear.

If the instructions say "You may use a cord and plug on this appliance" then
that's easy too.

But what if the instructions don't even address it? Does the NEC require
that the instructions explicitly say that you may use a cord and plug or
is the absence of both a Can and Can't statement enough to allow it?

I'm a little surprised.

I looked at a Maytag installation manual for a dishwasher, and it shows how to either attach a cord and plug or how to direct wire it. In the back of my mind it had to be direct wired, but not so.

I've not installed a dishwasher, but I've done a disposal a couple of times, and I direct wired it.

I also looked at a disposal installation manual, and it was silent on the subject, BUT it did say there must be a power switch with the off position marked and it must be within view of the opening. I hope you remembered you need to turn this thing on and off, unlike a dishwasher that has its own controls.

On Thursday, September 1, 2016 at 10:45:04 AM UTC-4, TimR wrote:
I'm a little surprised.

I looked at a Maytag installation manual for a dishwasher, and it shows how to either attach a cord and plug or how to direct wire it. In the back of my mind it had to be direct wired, but not so.

I've not installed a dishwasher, but I've done a disposal a couple of times, and I direct wired it.

I also looked at a disposal installation manual, and it was silent on the subject, BUT it did say there must be a power switch with the off position marked and it must be within view of the opening. I hope you remembered you need to turn this thing on and off, unlike a dishwasher that has its own controls.

"it must be within view of the opening"

What "opening" does the manual refer to? Are they referring to the
opening of the cabinet under the sink?

For the disposers that I have installed, I have chosen to mount the switch
above the counter so I don't have to open the cabinet, bend down to use
the switch, etc. However what I made sure to do was the mount the switch
in an "isolated" spot so that it wouldn't be confused with light switch,
etc.

For example, in my kitchen it is on the opposite side of the sink from
the switch for the light above the sink and also behind the dish rack.
That makes it *slightly* inconvenient, and somewhat hidden, which was
done on purpose.

In my parent's kitchen, there are switches on both sides of the sink,
so I mounted the switch directly behind the faucet. The user has to reach
around the faucet to operate it and it is labeled so that it (hopefully)
won't be confused with a light switch.

"I hope you remembered you need to turn this thing on and off"

Just FYI... There are batch feed units that don't require an electrical
or air switch. The power is controlled by the "stopper" or cap that
you put on the unit and then turn to engage. (I am not a fan of that
style. I like to turn mine on and then rinse debris down the drain
while it is running.)

On Thursday, September 1, 2016 at 11:30:45 AM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, September 1, 2016 at 10:45:04 AM UTC-4, TimR wrote:
I'm a little surprised.

I looked at a Maytag installation manual for a dishwasher, and it shows how to either attach a cord and plug or how to direct wire it. In the back of my mind it had to be direct wired, but not so.

I've not installed a dishwasher, but I've done a disposal a couple of times, and I direct wired it.

I also looked at a disposal installation manual, and it was silent on the subject, BUT it did say there must be a power switch with the off position marked and it must be within view of the opening. I hope you remembered you need to turn this thing on and off, unlike a dishwasher that has its own controls.

"it must be within view of the opening"

What "opening" does the manual refer to? Are they referring to the
opening of the cabinet under the sink?


I would think it's the opening of the disposal, so that the opening
and switch are within sight of each other to prevent someone from
putting their hand in, while someone else unaware is working a
switch.



For the disposers that I have installed, I have chosen to mount the switch
above the counter so I don't have to open the cabinet, bend down to use
the switch, etc. However what I made sure to do was the mount the switch
in an "isolated" spot so that it wouldn't be confused with light switch,
etc.

For example, in my kitchen it is on the opposite side of the sink from
the switch for the light above the sink and also behind the dish rack.
That makes it *slightly* inconvenient, and somewhat hidden, which was
done on purpose.

In my parent's kitchen, there are switches on both sides of the sink,
so I mounted the switch directly behind the faucet. The user has to reach
around the faucet to operate it and it is labeled so that it (hopefully)
won't be confused with a light switch.

"I hope you remembered you need to turn this thing on and off"

Just FYI... There are batch feed units that don't require an electrical
or air switch. The power is controlled by the "stopper" or cap that
you put on the unit and then turn to engage. (I am not a fan of that
style. I like to turn mine on and then rinse debris down the drain
while it is running.)

One of those air activated switches might be the best choice. You
can turn it on with wet hands, while using the switch, instead of
having to deal with a wall switch. Never used one though, so IDK
how well they work. Never seen one with a switch underneath the
cabinet.

On Thursday, September 1, 2016 at 11:30:45 AM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, September 1, 2016 at 10:45:04 AM UTC-4, TimR wrote:


"it must be within view of the opening"

What "opening" does the manual refer to? Are they referring to the
opening of the cabinet under the sink?

For the disposers that I have installed, I have chosen to mount the switch
above the counter so I don't have to open the cabinet, bend down to use
the switch, etc. However what I made sure to do was the mount the switch
in an "isolated" spot so that it wouldn't be confused with light switch,
etc.

..)

The Insinkerator owner's manual allows either cord and plug or permanent connection.

From the instructions, so it would be required to meet code:
***
This disposer requires a switch (15 amp minimum rating) with a marked "Off" position (wired to disconnect all ungrounded supply connectors) installed within sight of the disposer sink opening, except if using an air switch or batch feed accessory.
***
It sounds like your switch would meet the requirements. I have seen many that do not.

On Thursday, September 1, 2016 at 11:43:20 AM UTC-4, TimR wrote:
On Thursday, September 1, 2016 at 11:30:45 AM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, September 1, 2016 at 10:45:04 AM UTC-4, TimR wrote:


"it must be within view of the opening"

What "opening" does the manual refer to? Are they referring to the
opening of the cabinet under the sink?

For the disposers that I have installed, I have chosen to mount the switch
above the counter so I don't have to open the cabinet, bend down to use
the switch, etc. However what I made sure to do was the mount the switch
in an "isolated" spot so that it wouldn't be confused with light switch,
etc.

.)

The Insinkerator owner's manual allows either cord and plug or permanent connection.

From the instructions, so it would be required to meet code:

What "it" are you saying would be required to meet code?

***
This disposer requires a switch (15 amp minimum rating) with a marked "Off" position (wired to disconnect all ungrounded supply connectors) installed within sight of the disposer sink opening, except if using an air switch or batch feed accessory.
***
It sounds like your switch would meet the requirements. I have seen many that do not.

On Thursday, September 1, 2016 at 11:50:18 AM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:

From the instructions, so it would be required to meet code:

What "it" are you saying would be required to meet code?

***
This disposer requires a switch (15 amp minimum rating) with a marked "Off" position (wired to disconnect all ungrounded supply connectors) installed within sight of the disposer sink opening, except if using an air switch or batch feed accessory.
***


The stuff past the colon would be required to meet code. "This disposer requires a switch" etc.

On Thursday, September 1, 2016 at 12:19:19 PM UTC-4, TimR wrote:
On Thursday, September 1, 2016 at 11:50:18 AM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:

From the instructions, so it would be required to meet code:

What "it" are you saying would be required to meet code?

***
This disposer requires a switch (15 amp minimum rating) with a marked "Off" position (wired to disconnect all ungrounded supply connectors) installed within sight of the disposer sink opening, except if using an air switch or batch feed accessory.
***


The stuff past the colon would be required to meet code. "This disposer requires a switch" etc.

"...except if using an air switch or batch feed accessory"

That's why I asked about your use of the word "it". If your "it" meant a
marked switch within sight of the disposer sink opening, then "it" is not
required in all cases because exceptions are allowed.

Just trying to clarify the situation, that's all.

On Thu, 1 Sep 2016 05:33:11 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Thursday, September 1, 2016 at 6:49:06 AM UTC-4, TomR wrote:
wrote in message
...
On Wed, 31 Aug 2016 19:31:13 -0400, "TomR" wrote:

I am in the process installing a new dishwasher and garbage disposal. My
plan is to run one new circuit to power both. The plan is to use 12/2 NM
wire.

Is it okay to use one dedicated circuit to wire both a dishwasher and a
garbage disposal?

P.S. Even though I will be using 12/2 NM wire, my plan is to use a 15-amp
circuit breaker for that circuit. I do know that with 12/2 wire, I could
use a 20-am circuit breaker, but I have a personal preference for using 15
amp circuit breakers on 12/2 wiring except when the circuit is required to
have a 20 amp circuit breaker.

The only way you have a chance of it working 100% of the time is if
you use a 20a breaker. That is fine on 12 ga.
The other option is to use 12/3 nm a 2 pole breaker and make a
multiwire circuit with 2 separate 20a circuits. (the most common way
of dealing with this)
Land it in a 4x4 box and use 2 GFCI receptacles to be compliant with
the current code.

Thanks. I'll use a 20-amp breaker since it is 12 ga. wire. And, I am going
to set it up so each appliance plugs in rather than hardwiring the
appliances. I already ran the 12/2, so I am going to skip the option of
using 12/3 and a double pole breaker.

Which raises the other code question, if it's code compliant to put
a cord and plug on a piece of equipment where it does not come with one
and the install instructions don't say it can be used with a cord.
I think that's come up before and the answer is no. Not saying this
is a big safety issue or anything, just that I think that issue exists.
Gfre?

As long as it is an option from the manufacturer, it is fine. There
may be a question of listing if the cord is field installed and it is
not the exact cord the appliance manufacturer uses but for all
practical purposes, the code pretty much stops at the face of the
receptacle.

On 08/31/2016 08:30 PM, Meanie wrote:

I am in the process installing a new dishwasher and garbage disposal.
My plan is to run one new circuit to power both. The plan is to use
12/2 NM wire.

Is it okay to use one dedicated circuit to wire both a dishwasher and a
garbage disposal?

P.S. Even though I will be using 12/2 NM wire, my plan is to use a
15-amp circuit breaker for that circuit. I do know that with 12/2 wire,
I could use a 20-am circuit breaker, but I have a personal preference
for using 15 amp circuit breakers on 12/2 wiring except when the circuit
is required to have a 20 amp circuit breaker.



It is recommended to put the GD and dishwasher on it's own 15 amp
circuit or use a 20 amp circuit if you want to put them both together.

The average DW can pull 10 amps and the GD can be between 4 and 8 amps.
If running the DW and turning the GD on, you will most likely trip the
breaker at 15 amps since both will have a spike amp at start up.

I wired the GD and DW to separate poles of ganged 15A (non-GFCI)
breakers. There is a momentary-contact switch for the GD.

Perce

In ,
trader_4 typed:
On Thursday, September 1, 2016 at 6:49:06 AM UTC-4, TomR wrote:
wrote in message
...
On Wed, 31 Aug 2016 19:31:13 -0400, "TomR"
wrote:

I am in the process installing a new dishwasher and garbage
disposal. My plan is to run one new circuit to power both. The
plan is to use 12/2 NM wire.

Is it okay to use one dedicated circuit to wire both a dishwasher
and a garbage disposal?

P.S. Even though I will be using 12/2 NM wire, my plan is to use
a 15-amp circuit breaker for that circuit. I do know that with
12/2 wire, I could use a 20-am circuit breaker, but I have a
personal preference for using 15 amp circuit breakers on 12/2
wiring except when the circuit is required to have a 20 amp
circuit breaker.

The only way you have a chance of it working 100% of the time is if
you use a 20a breaker. That is fine on 12 ga.
The other option is to use 12/3 nm a 2 pole breaker and make a
multiwire circuit with 2 separate 20a circuits. (the most common way
of dealing with this)
Land it in a 4x4 box and use 2 GFCI receptacles to be compliant with
the current code.

Thanks. I'll use a 20-amp breaker since it is 12 ga. wire. And, I
am going to set it up so each appliance plugs in rather than
hardwiring the appliances. I already ran the 12/2, so I am going to
skip the option of using 12/3 and a double pole breaker.

Which raises the other code question, if it's code compliant to put
a cord and plug on a piece of equipment where it does not come with
one and the install instructions don't say it can be used with a cord.
I think that's come up before and the answer is no. Not saying this
is a big safety issue or anything, just that I think that issue
exists. Gfre?

Well, the deed is done. Both the dishwasher and the garbage disposal are
installed and are working. Both are on the same 20-amp circuit using 12/2
wire. Both are plugged in to a duplex receptacle that is mounted under the
sink. The receptacle is "split" where one side (the garbage disposal side)
is controlled by a wall switch on the wall above the countertop near the
sink. The other half of the receptacle is always hot -- not switch
controlled -- and the dishwasher is plugged into that side.

The "garbage disposal" is an Insinkerator Badger 900 Food Waste Disposer.
The dishwasher is a Whirlpool Model WDF320PADS1. The installation manuals
for both state that they can be either direct wired or wired with a corded
plug. We did the corded plug approach.

On Thursday, September 1, 2016 at 3:52:24 PM UTC-4, TomR wrote:
In ,
trader_4 typed:
On Thursday, September 1, 2016 at 6:49:06 AM UTC-4, TomR wrote:
wrote in message
...
On Wed, 31 Aug 2016 19:31:13 -0400, "TomR"
wrote:

I am in the process installing a new dishwasher and garbage
disposal. My plan is to run one new circuit to power both. The
plan is to use 12/2 NM wire.

Is it okay to use one dedicated circuit to wire both a dishwasher
and a garbage disposal?

P.S. Even though I will be using 12/2 NM wire, my plan is to use
a 15-amp circuit breaker for that circuit. I do know that with
12/2 wire, I could use a 20-am circuit breaker, but I have a
personal preference for using 15 amp circuit breakers on 12/2
wiring except when the circuit is required to have a 20 amp
circuit breaker.

The only way you have a chance of it working 100% of the time is if
you use a 20a breaker. That is fine on 12 ga.
The other option is to use 12/3 nm a 2 pole breaker and make a
multiwire circuit with 2 separate 20a circuits. (the most common way
of dealing with this)
Land it in a 4x4 box and use 2 GFCI receptacles to be compliant with
the current code.

Thanks. I'll use a 20-amp breaker since it is 12 ga. wire. And, I
am going to set it up so each appliance plugs in rather than
hardwiring the appliances. I already ran the 12/2, so I am going to
skip the option of using 12/3 and a double pole breaker.

Which raises the other code question, if it's code compliant to put
a cord and plug on a piece of equipment where it does not come with
one and the install instructions don't say it can be used with a cord.
I think that's come up before and the answer is no. Not saying this
is a big safety issue or anything, just that I think that issue
exists. Gfre?

Well, the deed is done. Both the dishwasher and the garbage disposal are
installed and are working. Both are on the same 20-amp circuit using 12/2
wire. Both are plugged in to a duplex receptacle that is mounted under the
sink. The receptacle is "split" where one side (the garbage disposal side)
is controlled by a wall switch on the wall above the countertop near the
sink. The other half of the receptacle is always hot -- not switch
controlled -- and the dishwasher is plugged into that side.

The "garbage disposal" is an Insinkerator Badger 900 Food Waste Disposer.
The dishwasher is a Whirlpool Model WDF320PADS1. The installation manuals
for both state that they can be either direct wired or wired with a corded
plug. We did the corded plug approach.

K, go have a 6 pack now. Or are you like me and needed that while
you did the job?

On 9/1/2016 10:45 AM, TimR wrote:
I'm a little surprised.

I looked at a Maytag installation manual for a dishwasher, and it shows how to either attach a cord and plug or how to direct wire it. In the back of my mind it had to be direct wired, but not so.

I've not installed a dishwasher, but I've done a disposal a couple of times, and I direct wired it.

I also looked at a disposal installation manual, and it was silent on the subject, BUT it did say there must be a power switch with the off position marked and it must be within view of the opening. I hope you remembered you need to turn this thing on and off, unlike a dishwasher that has its own controls.


We don't need no stinkin sweeetch,

My preference is batch feed where it is controlled by the stopper. Less
wiring and less likely to drop something into it while running.

On Thursday, September 1, 2016 at 7:31:59 PM UTC-4, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 9/1/2016 10:45 AM, TimR wrote:
I'm a little surprised.

I looked at a Maytag installation manual for a dishwasher, and it shows how to either attach a cord and plug or how to direct wire it. In the back of my mind it had to be direct wired, but not so.

I've not installed a dishwasher, but I've done a disposal a couple of times, and I direct wired it.

I also looked at a disposal installation manual, and it was silent on the subject, BUT it did say there must be a power switch with the off position marked and it must be within view of the opening. I hope you remembered you need to turn this thing on and off, unlike a dishwasher that has its own controls.


We don't need no stinkin sweeetch,

My preference is batch feed where it is controlled by the stopper. Less
wiring and less likely to drop something into it while running.

If I still had the Kenmore with it's POS rubber baffle, I'd agree. The baffle for the Kenmore
was "permanently" sandwiched between the disposer and the sink. Over the years it got
worn out, a flap or two fell off and things actually did fall in.

I installed the InSinkErator, with it's *removable* baffle and nothing has fallen in the
disposer in all the years it's been there. The problem with the Kenmore is that when there
was a need to put your hand in the disposer for something that the disposer had trouble
with, you had to stick your hand through the baffle and over the years it wore out. The
removable baffle of the InSinkErator prevents it from wearing out but even if it did, a new
one can just drop in it's place - without the need to drop the disposer.

On Thursday, September 1, 2016 at 7:31:59 PM UTC-4, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 9/1/2016 10:45 AM, TimR wrote:
I'm a little surprised.

I looked at a Maytag installation manual for a dishwasher, and it shows how to either attach a cord and plug or how to direct wire it. In the back of my mind it had to be direct wired, but not so.

I've not installed a dishwasher, but I've done a disposal a couple of times, and I direct wired it.

I also looked at a disposal installation manual, and it was silent on the subject, BUT it did say there must be a power switch with the off position marked and it must be within view of the opening. I hope you remembered you need to turn this thing on and off, unlike a dishwasher that has its own controls.


We don't need no stinkin sweeetch,

My preference is batch feed where it is controlled by the stopper. Less
wiring and less likely to drop something into it while running.

I've never had a batch feed.

How does it work when you have to reach in and retrieve something? I feel pretty safe with the switch off on mine, not so sure I would depend on an automatic one not starting at the wrong time?

On 09/02/2016 07:46 AM, TimR wrote:

I've never had a batch feed.

How does it work when you have to reach in and retrieve something? I feel pretty safe with the switch off on mine, not so sure I would depend on an automatic one not starting at the wrong time?

The thought of sticking my hand in a garbage disposer sends chills up my spine. I keep a pair of grabbers handy.

On Friday, September 2, 2016 at 8:09:26 AM UTC-4, Just Joe wrote:
On 09/02/2016 07:46 AM, TimR wrote:

I've never had a batch feed.

How does it work when you have to reach in and retrieve something? I feel pretty safe with the switch off on mine, not so sure I would depend on an automatic one not starting at the wrong time?

The thought of sticking my hand in a garbage disposer sends chills up my spine. I keep a pair of grabbers handy.

There are some items that a grabber just can't grab. That pesky piece of skin up under the lip,
for example, or that tiny piece of plastic from the bread wrapper that found it's way into the sink.