At this home there is a 20 amp breaker in the electrical panel that is pencil labeled as for the dishwasher and garbage disposal. At the junction box on the kitchen wall near the sink we see the 12 gauge wire feeds from the panel. Three 14 gauge wires, hot-black/neutral-white/ground-green, are routed from this box to another junction box underneath the sink through conduit.. A whip from the dishwasher is hardwired to the wires under the sink.

We want to add a GE half horsepower garbage disposal that is suppose to draw only 4.5 amps. Can we just pull another hot 14 gauge wire for the garbage disposal and use the existing white neurtal already there for the dishwasher? Does it matter whether 14 gauge is used rather than 12 gauge wires for either device?

Sure. Burn down your house.

There is a reason electricians leave them on separate circuits.

****ing moron.

On Sun, 8 Dec 2013 09:42:47 -0800 (PST), Edge
wrote:

At this home there is a 20 amp breaker in the electrical panel that is pencil labeled as for the dishwasher and garbage disposal. At the junction box on the kitchen wall near the sink we see the 12 gauge wire feeds from the panel. Three 14 gauge wires, hot-black/neutral-white/ground-green, are routed from this box to another junction box underneath the sink through conduit. A whip from the dishwasher is hardwired to the wires under the sink.

We want to add a GE half horsepower garbage disposal that is suppose to draw only 4.5 amps. Can we just pull another hot 14 gauge wire for the garbage disposal and use the existing white neurtal already there for the dishwasher? Does it matter whether 14 gauge is used rather than 12 gauge wires for either device?

" Fully explained dishwasher disposal wiring diagrams with pictures
for wiring the outlet that serves a dishwasher and a garbage
disposal."

URL:

http://www.ask-the-electrician.com/disposal-wiring-diagram.html

On Sun, 8 Dec 2013 09:42:47 -0800 (PST), Edge
wrote:

We want to add a GE half horsepower garbage disposal

Edge,

BTW, if this a first GD install, take note in the instructions about
an air-gap vent pipe and _the removal_ of the plug from the GD.

Dirty DW water can back up into the sink, iirc.

.... just a note

On 12/8/2013 12:00 PM, Daring Dufas : A Sock Of Killer Loon wrote:
Sure. Burn down your house.


Killer Loon, living proof that human females should never have sex with
farm animals. ^_^

TDD

On 12/8/2013 10:01 AM, wrote:
On Sun, 8 Dec 2013 09:42:47 -0800 (PST), Edge
wrote:

At this home there is a 20 amp breaker in the electrical panel that is pencil labeled as for the dishwasher and garbage disposal. At the junction box on the kitchen wall near the sink we see the 12 gauge wire feeds from the panel. Three 14 gauge wires, hot-black/neutral-white/ground-green, are routed from this box to another junction box underneath the sink through conduit. A whip from the dishwasher is hardwired to the wires under the sink.

We want to add a GE half horsepower garbage disposal that is suppose to draw only 4.5 amps. Can we just pull another hot 14 gauge wire for the garbage disposal and use the existing white neurtal already there for the dishwasher? Does it matter whether 14 gauge is used rather than 12 gauge wires for either device?

All the wires should usually be #12 BUT if you are serving a pure
motor load like the disposal, you could use #14.

I'd consult the building inspector who is gonna approve it on that.
He may frown on using less than #12 on a 20A breaker.


(125% of FLA) Not so
with the dish washer since it is not a pure motor load.
Whether they can share the circuit would depend on the nameplate
rating of the dishwasher.
Take 125% of the largest load and 100% of the other one. It has to be
20 or less.

On Sun, 08 Dec 2013 13:01:43 -0500, wrote:

On Sun, 8 Dec 2013 09:42:47 -0800 (PST), Edge
wrote:

At this home there is a 20 amp breaker in the electrical panel that is pencil labeled as for the dishwasher and garbage disposal. At the junction box on the kitchen wall near the sink we see the 12 gauge wire feeds from the panel. Three 14 gauge wires, hot-black/neutral-white/ground-green, are routed from this box to another junction box underneath the sink through conduit. A whip from the dishwasher is hardwired to the wires under the sink.

We want to add a GE half horsepower garbage disposal that is suppose to draw only 4.5 amps. Can we just pull another hot 14 gauge wire for the garbage disposal and use the existing white neurtal already there for the dishwasher? Does it matter whether 14 gauge is used rather than 12 gauge wires for either device?

All the wires should usually be #12 BUT if you are serving a pure
motor load like the disposal, you could use #14. (125% of FLA) Not so
with the dish washer since it is not a pure motor load.
Whether they can share the circuit would depend on the nameplate
rating of the dishwasher.

Mixing 12ga and 14ga on one branch? That sounds like a real no-no,
even if you used a 15A breaker.

Take 125% of the largest load and 100% of the other one. It has to be
20 or less.

On Sun, 08 Dec 2013 15:33:08 -0500, wrote:

On Sun, 08 Dec 2013 12:13:04 -0800, Oren wrote:

On Sun, 8 Dec 2013 09:42:47 -0800 (PST), Edge
wrote:

We want to add a GE half horsepower garbage disposal

Edge,

BTW, if this a first GD install, take note in the instructions about
an air-gap vent pipe and _the removal_ of the plug from the GD.

Dirty DW water can back up into the sink, iirc.

... just a note

The other way around, Without the air gap, waste water from the drain
siphons back into the dish washer

Yes Sir. Know when or if to knock the plug out.

--
Q: Why do men get their great ideas in bed?
A: Because their plugged into a genius!

Hahahahaha.

Dats funny.

Save the call for the unionized fire department.

On 12/8/2013 4:08 PM, Daring Dufas : A Sock Of Killer Loon wrote:
Hahahahaha.

Dats funny.

Save the call for the unionized fire department.


Killer Loon, living proof that human females should never have sex with
farm animals. ^_^

TDD

On Sun, 08 Dec 2013 16:24:23 -0600, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 12/8/2013 4:08 PM, Daring Dufas : A Sock Of Killer Loon wrote:
Hahahahaha.

Dats funny.

Save the call for the unionized fire department.


Killer Loon, living proof that human females should never have sex with
farm animals. ^_^

TDD

Or against an animal witness in court.

"Man who had sex with goat faces victim in court"

http://video.foxnews.com/v/2893082156001/man-who-had-sex-with-goat-faces-victim-in-court/?playlist_id=930909817001

You can't make this stuff up.

On 12/8/2013 5:12 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sun, 08 Dec 2013 16:24:23 -0600, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 12/8/2013 4:08 PM, Daring Dufas : A Sock Of Killer Loon wrote:
Hahahahaha.

Dats funny.

Save the call for the unionized fire department.


Killer Loon, living proof that human females should never have sex with
farm animals. ^_^

TDD

Or against an animal witness in court.

"Man who had sex with goat faces victim in court"

http://video.foxnews.com/v/2893082156001/man-who-had-sex-with-goat-faces-victim-in-court/?playlist_id=930909817001

You can't make this stuff up.


Here in Alabamastan he would have gotten capital punishment if the goat
had been white. ^_^

TDD

On 12/8/2013 5:49 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 08 Dec 2013 13:15:09 -0800, mike wrote:

All the wires should usually be #12 BUT if you are serving a pure
motor load like the disposal, you could use #14.

I'd consult the building inspector who is gonna approve it on that.
He may frown on using less than #12 on a 20A breaker.

Only inspectors who stopped learning the code before they got to
article 430.


I was thinking that many dishwashers have a heating element that could
bring a high resistive load into consideration. ^_^

TDD

On 12/8/2013 5:54 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 08 Dec 2013 16:35:48 -0500, wrote:

Mixing 12ga and 14ga on one branch? That sounds like a real no-no,
even if you used a 15A breaker.

Not illegal or even unusual.
If you had a post light and a gate opener at the end of a long
driveway you might want 12ga on your 15a circuit going down there,
just for the voltage drop and between the opener and the light, 14
would be fine.

Is it worth doing to save a nickel on this 3' of 14. Not really but
it might not be illegal.

Bear in mind there are a few jurisdictions in the US that won't let
you use 14 for anything but that is a local amendment, made by idiots.


The city engineering department around here wants the breaker sized for
the wire. It's possible that in the warmer temperatures we experience
here in Alabamastan, the wire and breakers must be derated to deal with
it to prevent nuisance tripping. I have checked the temperatures of many
electrical panels with my infrared thermometer and they get quite hot at
times under normal loads. Of course I'm looking for that hottest breaker
which could indicate a bad connection. ^_^

TDD

On Sun, 8 Dec 2013 09:42:47 -0800 (PST), Edge
wrote:

At this home
there is a 20 amp breaker in the electrical panel that is pencil labeled
as for the dishwasher and garbage disposal. At the junction box on the
kitchen wall near the sink we see the 12 gauge wire feeds from the
panel. Three 14 gauge wires, hot-black/neutral-white/ground-green, are
routed from this box to another junction box underneath the sink through
conduit. A whip from the dishwasher is hardwired to the wires under the
sink.

We want to add a GE half horsepower garbage
disposal that is suppose to draw only 4.5 amps. Can we just pull another
hot 14 gauge wire for the garbage disposal and use the existing white
neurtal already there for the dishwasher? Does it matter whether 14
gauge is used rather than 12 gauge wires for either device?

-------

Using 14ga wire on a 20A breaker is a code violation, and is dangerous.
Replace all the 14ga with 12ga, or replace the breaker with a 15amp.

On 12/8/2013 7:26 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 08 Dec 2013 19:15:46 -0600, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 12/8/2013 5:49 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 08 Dec 2013 13:15:09 -0800, mike wrote:

All the wires should usually be #12 BUT if you are serving a pure
motor load like the disposal, you could use #14.

I'd consult the building inspector who is gonna approve it on that.
He may frown on using less than #12 on a 20A breaker.

Only inspectors who stopped learning the code before they got to
article 430.


I was thinking that many dishwashers have a heating element that could
bring a high resistive load into consideration. ^_^

TDD


I mentioned that, we were talking about the wire to the disposal.


I believe I've seen them on the same circuit before but I haven't done
house wiring as an electrician in years and the dishwasher here is on a
separate circuit. I'd have to go look at the outdoor breaker panel to
determine what size breaker and wire it is because I didn't install it.
Besides, I have a bit of trouble walking and it's raining hogs and frogs
outside right now. ^_^

TDD

wrote:
On Sun, 08 Dec 2013 13:01:43 -0500, wrote:

On Sun, 8 Dec 2013 09:42:47 -0800 (PST), Edge
wrote:

At this home there is a 20 amp breaker in the electrical panel that is
pencil labeled as for the dishwasher and garbage disposal. At the
junction box on the kitchen wall near the sink we see the 12 gauge wire
feeds from the panel. Three 14 gauge wires,
hot-black/neutral-white/ground-green, are routed from this box to
another junction box underneath the sink through conduit. A whip from
the dishwasher is hardwired to the wires under the sink.

We want to add a GE half horsepower garbage disposal that is suppose to
draw only 4.5 amps. Can we just pull another hot 14 gauge wire for the
garbage disposal and use the existing white neurtal already there for
the dishwasher? Does it matter whether 14 gauge is used rather than 12
gauge wires for either device?

All the wires should usually be #12 BUT if you are serving a pure
motor load like the disposal, you could use #14. (125% of FLA) Not so
with the dish washer since it is not a pure motor load.
Whether they can share the circuit would depend on the nameplate
rating of the dishwasher.

Mixing 12ga and 14ga on one branch? That sounds like a real no-no,
even if you used a 15A breaker.

I don't see a problem using 15 amp breaker. I use 20 amp breaker feeding 10
ga. To 12 ga. Long run to garage. There can be a long term problem if
things are not labeled.


Greg

Take 125% of the largest load and 100% of the other one. It has to be
20 or less.

On Mon, 9 Dec 2013 02:41:30 +0000 (UTC), gregz
wrote:

wrote:
On Sun, 08 Dec 2013 13:01:43 -0500, wrote:

On Sun, 8 Dec 2013 09:42:47 -0800 (PST), Edge
wrote:

At this home there is a 20 amp breaker in the electrical panel that is
pencil labeled as for the dishwasher and garbage disposal. At the
junction box on the kitchen wall near the sink we see the 12 gauge wire
feeds from the panel. Three 14 gauge wires,
hot-black/neutral-white/ground-green, are routed from this box to
another junction box underneath the sink through conduit. A whip from
the dishwasher is hardwired to the wires under the sink.

We want to add a GE half horsepower garbage disposal that is suppose to
draw only 4.5 amps. Can we just pull another hot 14 gauge wire for the
garbage disposal and use the existing white neurtal already there for
the dishwasher? Does it matter whether 14 gauge is used rather than 12
gauge wires for either device?

All the wires should usually be #12 BUT if you are serving a pure
motor load like the disposal, you could use #14. (125% of FLA) Not so
with the dish washer since it is not a pure motor load.
Whether they can share the circuit would depend on the nameplate
rating of the dishwasher.

Mixing 12ga and 14ga on one branch? That sounds like a real no-no,
even if you used a 15A breaker.

I don't see a problem using 15 amp breaker. I use 20 amp breaker feeding 10
ga. To 12 ga. Long run to garage. There can be a long term problem if
things are not labeled.

The issue is the next guy who comes along, seeing the 12ga wire,
inserts a 20A breaker. ...but I'll defer to those with a citation in
their hot little hands.

On 12/8/2013 8:57 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 9 Dec 2013 02:41:30 +0000 (UTC), gregz
wrote:

wrote:
On Sun, 08 Dec 2013 13:01:43 -0500, wrote:

On Sun, 8 Dec 2013 09:42:47 -0800 (PST), Edge
wrote:

At this home there is a 20 amp breaker in the electrical
panel that is pencil labeled as for the dishwasher and
garbage disposal. At the junction box on the kitchen wall
near the sink we see the 12 gauge wire feeds from the panel.
Three 14 gauge wires, hot-black/neutral-white/ground-green,
are routed from this box to another junction box underneath
the sink through conduit. A whip from the dishwasher is
hardwired to the wires under the sink.

We want to add a GE half horsepower garbage disposal that is
suppose to draw only 4.5 amps. Can we just pull another hot
14 gauge wire for the garbage disposal and use the existing
white neurtal already there for the dishwasher? Does it
matter whether 14 gauge is used rather than 12 gauge wires
for either device?

All the wires should usually be #12 BUT if you are serving a
pure motor load like the disposal, you could use #14. (125% of
FLA) Not so with the dish washer since it is not a pure motor
load. Whether they can share the circuit would depend on the
nameplate rating of the dishwasher.

Mixing 12ga and 14ga on one branch? That sounds like a real
no-no, even if you used a 15A breaker.

I don't see a problem using 15 amp breaker. I use 20 amp breaker
feeding 10 ga. To 12 ga. Long run to garage. There can be a long
term problem if things are not labeled.

The issue is the next guy who comes along, seeing the 12ga wire,
inserts a 20A breaker. ...but I'll defer to those with a citation
in their hot little hands.


I believe gfretwell is/was an electrical inspector and he is going by
the NEC. The problem comes in when you have a city engineering
department that has its own interpretation of the National Electrical
Code like where I live. Anyone getting an inspection must do as the
inspector demands even if you believe him/her/it to be wrong. You can
sometimes pull out the code book and win an argument but unless it's an
absolutely insane demand, it's best not to argue with the inspector. ^_^

TDD

On 12/8/2013 8:54 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:

I believe I've seen them on the same circuit before but I haven't done
house wiring as an electrician in years and the dishwasher here is on a
separate circuit. I'd have to go look at the outdoor breaker panel to
determine what size breaker and wire it is because I didn't install it.
Besides, I have a bit of trouble walking and it's raining hogs and frogs
outside right now. ^_^

TDD

One email friend in eastern TN, says it's raining hard
there. Aftermath of that killer storm that passed?

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On Mon, 09 Dec 2013 00:09:26 -0500, wrote:

On Sun, 08 Dec 2013 21:57:40 -0500, wrote:


The issue is the next guy who comes along, seeing the 12ga wire,
inserts a 20A breaker. ...but I'll defer to those with a citation in
their hot little hands.

"The NEC does not address what an unqualified person might do". I got
that straight from the NFPA on a proposed change about something
similar.

I suppose I could blow everyone's mind by saying it is legal to use a
40a breaker on 14 ga wire if you are serving a 1HP single phase 120v
motor with internal overload protection.

How does the overload protection protect the wiring?

It is a common question in the inspector test.

FLA is 16a (Table 430.248)
125% of that is 20a (430.22)
Table 316.16 says a 14 ga copper wire is OK for 20a in the 60c column.

The over current device can be up to 250% of FLA. 16 x 2.5 = 40a
(table 430.52) if the motor has overload protection.

On Monday, December 9, 2013 7:01:33 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Mon, 09 Dec 2013 00:09:26 -0500, wrote:



On Sun, 08 Dec 2013 21:57:40 -0500, wrote:





The issue is the next guy who comes along, seeing the 12ga wire,

inserts a 20A breaker. ...but I'll defer to those with a citation in

their hot little hands.



"The NEC does not address what an unqualified person might do". I got

that straight from the NFPA on a proposed change about something

similar.



I suppose I could blow everyone's mind by saying it is legal to use a

40a breaker on 14 ga wire if you are serving a 1HP single phase 120v

motor with internal overload protection.



How does the overload protection protect the wiring?




The overload protection in this case is inside the motor
itself. It's a common misconception among home inspectors too.
Some of them see a 50A breaker going to an AC compressor and assume
that it has to use the same size conductor that you would use
for a 50A oven. They see a smaller conductor and flag it,
though it's 100% code compliant to use a smaller conductor,
within the rating of the AC unit specs.





It is a common question in the inspector test.



FLA is 16a (Table 430.248)

125% of that is 20a (430.22)

Table 316.16 says a 14 ga copper wire is OK for 20a in the 60c column.



The over current device can be up to 250% of FLA. 16 x 2.5 = 40a

(table 430.52) if the motor has overload protection.

On Sunday, December 8, 2013 8:29:18 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Sun, 8 Dec 2013 09:42:47 -0800 (PST), Edge

wrote:



At this home

there is a 20 amp breaker in the electrical panel that is pencil labeled

as for the dishwasher and garbage disposal. At the junction box on the

kitchen wall near the sink we see the 12 gauge wire feeds from the

panel. Three 14 gauge wires, hot-black/neutral-white/ground-green, are

routed from this box to another junction box underneath the sink through

conduit. A whip from the dishwasher is hardwired to the wires under the

sink.



We want to add a GE half horsepower garbage

disposal that is suppose to draw only 4.5 amps. Can we just pull another

hot 14 gauge wire for the garbage disposal and use the existing white

neurtal already there for the dishwasher? Does it matter whether 14

gauge is used rather than 12 gauge wires for either device?



-------



Using 14ga wire on a 20A breaker is a code violation, and is dangerous.

Replace all the 14ga with 12ga, or replace the breaker with a 15amp.

Wrong, as Gfre has explained. It depends on what the loads are.
Conductors for motor loads are sized differently and you can use
a smaller gauge conductor on the same size breaker that you could
if it were a general purpose circuit.

On Tue, 10 Dec 2013 05:58:54 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

On Monday, December 9, 2013 7:01:33 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Mon, 09 Dec 2013 00:09:26 -0500, wrote:



On Sun, 08 Dec 2013 21:57:40 -0500, wrote:





The issue is the next guy who comes along, seeing the 12ga wire,

inserts a 20A breaker. ...but I'll defer to those with a citation in

their hot little hands.



"The NEC does not address what an unqualified person might do". I got

that straight from the NFPA on a proposed change about something

similar.



I suppose I could blow everyone's mind by saying it is legal to use a

40a breaker on 14 ga wire if you are serving a 1HP single phase 120v

motor with internal overload protection.



How does the overload protection protect the wiring?




The overload protection in this case is inside the motor
itself. It's a common misconception among home inspectors too.
Some of them see a 50A breaker going to an AC compressor and assume
that it has to use the same size conductor that you would use
for a 50A oven. They see a smaller conductor and flag it,
though it's 100% code compliant to use a smaller conductor,
within the rating of the AC unit specs.


Can you even try to read, Trader?

On Tuesday, December 10, 2013 1:05:44 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Tue, 10 Dec 2013 05:58:54 -0800 (PST), "

wrote:



On Monday, December 9, 2013 7:01:33 PM UTC-5, wrote:

On Mon, 09 Dec 2013 00:09:26 -0500, wrote:







On Sun, 08 Dec 2013 21:57:40 -0500, wrote:











The issue is the next guy who comes along, seeing the 12ga wire,



inserts a 20A breaker. ...but I'll defer to those with a citation in



their hot little hands.







"The NEC does not address what an unqualified person might do". I got



that straight from the NFPA on a proposed change about something



similar.







I suppose I could blow everyone's mind by saying it is legal to use a



40a breaker on 14 ga wire if you are serving a 1HP single phase 120v



motor with internal overload protection.







How does the overload protection protect the wiring?









The overload protection in this case is inside the motor

itself. It's a common misconception among home inspectors too.

Some of them see a 50A breaker going to an AC compressor and assume

that it has to use the same size conductor that you would use

for a 50A oven. They see a smaller conductor and flag it,

though it's 100% code compliant to use a smaller conductor,

within the rating of the AC unit specs.





Can you even try to read, Trader?

You know, you're remarkably arrogant for someone who knows so
little. You didn't even know how motor loads are sized.
Gfre, who is/was an electrical inspector told you that
you were wrong.


And what I just told you is correct. The overload protection
is in the motor. That protects the motor and the *wiring*
from overload, because the motor is the load. Capiche?
Or would you like to dig your hole deeper?

On Tue, 10 Dec 2013 10:27:05 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

On Tuesday, December 10, 2013 1:05:44 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Tue, 10 Dec 2013 05:58:54 -0800 (PST), "

wrote:



On Monday, December 9, 2013 7:01:33 PM UTC-5, wrote:

On Mon, 09 Dec 2013 00:09:26 -0500, wrote:







On Sun, 08 Dec 2013 21:57:40 -0500, wrote:











The issue is the next guy who comes along, seeing the 12ga wire,



inserts a 20A breaker. ...but I'll defer to those with a citation in



their hot little hands.







"The NEC does not address what an unqualified person might do". I got



that straight from the NFPA on a proposed change about something



similar.







I suppose I could blow everyone's mind by saying it is legal to use a



40a breaker on 14 ga wire if you are serving a 1HP single phase 120v



motor with internal overload protection.







How does the overload protection protect the wiring?









The overload protection in this case is inside the motor

itself. It's a common misconception among home inspectors too.

Some of them see a 50A breaker going to an AC compressor and assume

that it has to use the same size conductor that you would use

for a 50A oven. They see a smaller conductor and flag it,

though it's 100% code compliant to use a smaller conductor,

within the rating of the AC unit specs.





Can you even try to read, Trader?

You know, you're remarkably arrogant for someone who knows so
little. You didn't even know how motor loads are sized.
Gfre, who is/was an electrical inspector told you that
you were wrong.

You're completely illiterate, Trader.

And what I just told you is correct. The overload protection
is in the motor. That protects the motor and the *wiring*
from overload, because the motor is the load. Capiche?
Or would you like to dig your hole deeper?

What you told me was completely irrelevant because you CAN'T READ!
Even Cracker Jax should be ashamed with you as an alum.

On Tuesday, December 10, 2013 4:35:29 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Tue, 10 Dec 2013 10:27:05 -0800 (PST), "

wrote:



On Tuesday, December 10, 2013 1:05:44 PM UTC-5, wrote:

On Tue, 10 Dec 2013 05:58:54 -0800 (PST), "



wrote:







On Monday, December 9, 2013 7:01:33 PM UTC-5, wrote:



On Mon, 09 Dec 2013 00:09:26 -0500, wrote:















On Sun, 08 Dec 2013 21:57:40 -0500, wrote:























The issue is the next guy who comes along, seeing the 12ga wire,







inserts a 20A breaker. ...but I'll defer to those with a citation in







their hot little hands.















"The NEC does not address what an unqualified person might do". I got







that straight from the NFPA on a proposed change about something







similar.















I suppose I could blow everyone's mind by saying it is legal to use a







40a breaker on 14 ga wire if you are serving a 1HP single phase 120v







motor with internal overload protection.















How does the overload protection protect the wiring?



















The overload protection in this case is inside the motor



itself. It's a common misconception among home inspectors too.



Some of them see a 50A breaker going to an AC compressor and assume



that it has to use the same size conductor that you would use



for a 50A oven. They see a smaller conductor and flag it,



though it's 100% code compliant to use a smaller conductor,



within the rating of the AC unit specs.











Can you even try to read, Trader?



You know, you're remarkably arrogant for someone who knows so

little. You didn't even know how motor loads are sized.

Gfre, who is/was an electrical inspector told you that

you were wrong.



You're completely illiterate, Trader.



And what I just told you is correct. The overload protection

is in the motor. That protects the motor and the *wiring*

from overload, because the motor is the load. Capiche?

Or would you like to dig your hole deeper?



What you told me was completely irrelevant because you CAN'T READ!

Even Cracker Jax should be ashamed with you as an alum.

You asked:

"How does the overload protection protect the wiring?"

I replied with:

"The overload protection in this case is inside the motor
itself."

And when you didn't understand that, I told stated:

"The overload protection is in the motor. That protects the motor and the *wiring* from overload, because the motor is the load."

Since you're having trouble, I'll try to explain it at your
level. If the load, ie the motor seizes up, starts to burn
up, etc and it results in an overload, the overload protection
in the motor cuts it off. There is no other load, you can't
plug in more motors, more lights to "overload" the wiring. Therefore
that protection in the motor protects the motor and the wires
serving it from overload. Words have meaning you know...

If that is beyond your comprehension level, that's OK.
The folks that write the NEC understand it, cover it, set
the rules for conductor sizing for it, as GFRE also
tried to explain to you.

So, your incredulity once again shows that you don't know what
you're talking about when it comes to even practical application
of electricity.

On Sun, 8 Dec 2013 09:42:47 -0800 (PST), Edge
wrote:

At this home there is a 20 amp breaker in the electrical panel that is pencil labeled as for the dishwasher and garbage disposal. At the junction box on the kitchen wall near the sink we see the 12 gauge wire feeds from the panel. Three 14 gauge wires, hot-black/neutral-white/ground-green, are routed from this box to another junction box underneath the sink through conduit. A whip from the dishwasher is hardwired to the wires under the sink.

We want to add a GE half horsepower garbage disposal that is suppose to draw only 4.5 amps. Can we just pull another hot 14 gauge wire for the garbage disposal and use the existing white neurtal already there for the dishwasher? Does it matter whether 14 gauge is used rather than 12 gauge wires for either device?

My possibly not-to-code answer. Unless you plan to run the disposal
for long periods of time, like 10 or more minutes at a time, I
personally would not worry about it and just add the circuit. The
only time the load would be particularly high would be if you happened
to run the dishwasher and disposal at the same time and as I said,
unless you are planning on marathon disposal sessions you just won't
be loading the circuit long enough to be an issue.