On my old Farmall tractor I have square nuts on the drawbar attachments.
The "bolts: that these are on, are not just bolts, but some special
swivel device similar to an eye bolt. These square nuts are rather large
and need a 1-1/4" open end wrench. The problem is that these nuts are
right next to the transmission and there is no room to swing an open end
wrench. The only way I can get these nuts off, is with a socket. But
even looking at antique tools at auctions, I have never seen a socket
for square nuts?

Normally, if it's just a regular bolt, I'll just use my angle grinder
and grind the nut off, but this is not an option here.

Has anyone ever seen sockets for square nuts, and know a source to buy
them? If they are available, I'm sure the socket would be cheaper than
having to replace those special bolts.

(Once I get them off, they will be replaced with hex nuts).

On Tuesday, August 2, 2016 at 4:44:57 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On my old Farmall tractor I have square nuts on the drawbar attachments.
The "bolts: that these are on, are not just bolts, but some special
swivel device similar to an eye bolt. These square nuts are rather large
and need a 1-1/4" open end wrench. The problem is that these nuts are
right next to the transmission and there is no room to swing an open end
wrench. The only way I can get these nuts off, is with a socket. But
even looking at antique tools at auctions, I have never seen a socket
for square nuts?

Normally, if it's just a regular bolt, I'll just use my angle grinder
and grind the nut off, but this is not an option here.

Has anyone ever seen sockets for square nuts, and know a source to buy
them? If they are available, I'm sure the socket would be cheaper than
having to replace those special bolts.

(Once I get them off, they will be replaced with hex nuts).

I have a set of Crescent sockets that are square and hex...they look like an internal spline. But I don't know if they make larger sizes?

On Tuesday, August 2, 2016 at 4:44:57 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On my old Farmall tractor I have square nuts on the drawbar attachments.
The "bolts: that these are on, are not just bolts, but some special
swivel device similar to an eye bolt. These square nuts are rather large
and need a 1-1/4" open end wrench. The problem is that these nuts are
right next to the transmission and there is no room to swing an open end
wrench. The only way I can get these nuts off, is with a socket. But
even looking at antique tools at auctions, I have never seen a socket
for square nuts?

Normally, if it's just a regular bolt, I'll just use my angle grinder
and grind the nut off, but this is not an option here.

Has anyone ever seen sockets for square nuts, and know a source to buy
them? If they are available, I'm sure the socket would be cheaper than
having to replace those special bolts.

(Once I get them off, they will be replaced with hex nuts).

I got this set from Menards for $20. http://tinyurl.com/z7546et

On Tue, 02 Aug 2016 04:43:57 -0400, wrote:

On my old Farmall tractor I have square nuts on the drawbar attachments.
The "bolts: that these are on, are not just bolts, but some special
swivel device similar to an eye bolt. These square nuts are rather large
and need a 1-1/4" open end wrench. The problem is that these nuts are
right next to the transmission and there is no room to swing an open end
wrench. The only way I can get these nuts off, is with a socket. But
even looking at antique tools at auctions, I have never seen a socket
for square nuts?

Normally, if it's just a regular bolt, I'll just use my angle grinder
and grind the nut off, but this is not an option here.

Has anyone ever seen sockets for square nuts, and know a source to buy
them? If they are available, I'm sure the socket would be cheaper than
having to replace those special bolts.

(Once I get them off, they will be replaced with hex nuts).


You want 8 point sockets. Expensive.
But a cheap way is to use a pipe wrench.

In article ,
says...

On Tue, 02 Aug 2016 04:43:57 -0400, wrote:

On my old Farmall tractor I have square nuts on the drawbar attachments.
The "bolts: that these are on, are not just bolts, but some special
swivel device similar to an eye bolt. These square nuts are rather large
and need a 1-1/4" open end wrench. The problem is that these nuts are
right next to the transmission and there is no room to swing an open end
wrench. The only way I can get these nuts off, is with a socket. But
even looking at antique tools at auctions, I have never seen a socket
for square nuts?

Normally, if it's just a regular bolt, I'll just use my angle grinder
and grind the nut off, but this is not an option here.

Has anyone ever seen sockets for square nuts, and know a source to buy
them? If they are available, I'm sure the socket would be cheaper than
having to replace those special bolts.

(Once I get them off, they will be replaced with hex nuts).


You want 8 point sockets. Expensive.
But a cheap way is to use a pipe wrench.

Actually a standard 12 point socket would be a more common choice.

--
RonNNN

Have you tried 12 point sockets? A lot of Liquid Wrench and a well
fitting 12 point socket may do it. At a guess try 1 5/8".
Or use a nut cracker and replace them with hex nuts.
Don't focus on the inadequacy of your tool, focus on getting the job
done. Your wife will thank you for this

Dave M.

On Tue, 2 Aug 2016 06:13:06 -0500, RonNNN wrote:

In article ,
says...

On Tue, 02 Aug 2016 04:43:57 -0400, wrote:

On my old Farmall tractor I have square nuts on the drawbar attachments.
The "bolts: that these are on, are not just bolts, but some special
swivel device similar to an eye bolt. These square nuts are rather large
and need a 1-1/4" open end wrench. The problem is that these nuts are
right next to the transmission and there is no room to swing an open end
wrench. The only way I can get these nuts off, is with a socket. But
even looking at antique tools at auctions, I have never seen a socket
for square nuts?

Normally, if it's just a regular bolt, I'll just use my angle grinder
and grind the nut off, but this is not an option here.

Has anyone ever seen sockets for square nuts, and know a source to buy
them? If they are available, I'm sure the socket would be cheaper than
having to replace those special bolts.

(Once I get them off, they will be replaced with hex nuts).


You want 8 point sockets. Expensive.
But a cheap way is to use a pipe wrench.

Actually a standard 12 point socket would be a more common choice.

That'll work to round off the corners before you use the pipe wrench.

On 8/2/2016 1:43 AM, wrote:
On my old Farmall tractor I have square nuts on the drawbar attachments.
The "bolts: that these are on, are not just bolts, but some special
swivel device similar to an eye bolt. These square nuts are rather large
and need a 1-1/4" open end wrench. The problem is that these nuts are
right next to the transmission and there is no room to swing an open end
wrench. The only way I can get these nuts off, is with a socket. But
even looking at antique tools at auctions, I have never seen a socket
for square nuts?

Normally, if it's just a regular bolt, I'll just use my angle grinder
and grind the nut off, but this is not an option here.

Has anyone ever seen sockets for square nuts, and know a source to buy
them? If they are available, I'm sure the socket would be cheaper than
having to replace those special bolts.

(Once I get them off, they will be replaced with hex nuts).




When you find the socket you want to use (a 8 or 12 point should work),
I suggest you use an impact driver to take it off, after applying WD40
or some such.

In article , says...

On 8/2/2016 1:43 AM, wrote:
On my old Farmall tractor I have square nuts on the drawbar attachments.
The "bolts: that these are on, are not just bolts, but some special
swivel device similar to an eye bolt. These square nuts are rather large
and need a 1-1/4" open end wrench. The problem is that these nuts are
right next to the transmission and there is no room to swing an open end
wrench. The only way I can get these nuts off, is with a socket. But
even looking at antique tools at auctions, I have never seen a socket
for square nuts?

Normally, if it's just a regular bolt, I'll just use my angle grinder
and grind the nut off, but this is not an option here.

Has anyone ever seen sockets for square nuts, and know a source to buy
them? If they are available, I'm sure the socket would be cheaper than
having to replace those special bolts.

(Once I get them off, they will be replaced with hex nuts).




When you find the socket you want to use (a 8 or 12 point should work),
I suggest you use an impact driver to take it off, after applying WD40
or some such.

I'll make another suggestion, "PB Blaster" works really good on rusted
nuts and bolts.

--
RonNNN

On Tuesday, August 2, 2016 at 5:44:57 AM UTC-4, wrote:
On my old Farmall tractor I have square nuts on the drawbar attachments.
The "bolts: that these are on, are not just bolts, but some special
swivel device similar to an eye bolt. These square nuts are rather large
and need a 1-1/4" open end wrench. The problem is that these nuts are
right next to the transmission and there is no room to swing an open end
wrench. The only way I can get these nuts off, is with a socket. But
even looking at antique tools at auctions, I have never seen a socket
for square nuts?

Normally, if it's just a regular bolt, I'll just use my angle grinder
and grind the nut off, but this is not an option here.

Has anyone ever seen sockets for square nuts, and know a source to buy
them? If they are available, I'm sure the socket would be cheaper than
having to replace those special bolts.

(Once I get them off, they will be replaced with hex nuts).

I'd check out Sears. They have a bunch of sockets and such that are
supposed to universally fit a lot of nuts and bolts. How well they
actually fit depends on the bolt I guess. An 8 pt socket is one that
will fit, they should have that too. Or if you want something cheap,
HF perhaps.

On Tue, 2 Aug 2016 09:21:01 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

(Once I get them off, they will be replaced with hex nuts).

I'd check out Sears. They have a bunch of sockets and such that are
supposed to universally fit a lot of nuts and bolts. How well they
actually fit depends on the bolt I guess. An 8 pt socket is one that
will fit, they should have that too. Or if you want something cheap,
HF perhaps.

Never used a "gator socket" before. They have been around for years.
One sockets fits numerous sized nuts and bolts. The pins depress so it
fits different sizes.

https://tinyurl.com/zcoqelw

On 8/2/2016 9:45 AM, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 2 Aug 2016 09:21:01 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

(Once I get them off, they will be replaced with hex nuts).

I'd check out Sears. They have a bunch of sockets and such that are
supposed to universally fit a lot of nuts and bolts. How well they
actually fit depends on the bolt I guess. An 8 pt socket is one that
will fit, they should have that too. Or if you want something cheap,
HF perhaps.

Never used a "gator socket" before. They have been around for years.
One sockets fits numerous sized nuts and bolts. The pins depress so it
fits different sizes.

https://tinyurl.com/zcoqelw



I have to think such a gator socket would not work well for a really
tight rusted on bolt.

On Tuesday, August 2, 2016 at 12:46:00 PM UTC-4, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 2 Aug 2016 09:21:01 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

(Once I get them off, they will be replaced with hex nuts).

I'd check out Sears. They have a bunch of sockets and such that are
supposed to universally fit a lot of nuts and bolts. How well they
actually fit depends on the bolt I guess. An 8 pt socket is one that
will fit, they should have that too. Or if you want something cheap,
HF perhaps.

Never used a "gator socket" before. They have been around for years.
One sockets fits numerous sized nuts and bolts. The pins depress so it
fits different sizes.

https://tinyurl.com/zcoqelw

The only issue with any of those "fits multiple things" is that I think
they don't fit anything as well as the actual correct wrench. I needed
a metric external torx socket to get to a really tight bolt, in a really
bad place. No one had one locally. Sears had one of those miracle sockets
that's supposed to fit multiple things, including torx. So, I tried it.
I was smart, so I started out with trying it on some other torx bolts
that were easily accessible, where I didn't need the socket. It worked
just fine, but as I said they were really tight. So, finally and used it
on the one that I really had to use a socket on. And of course, as I
put pressure on it, it finally slipped. I'm sure if I had the actual
torx socket that would not have happened. At that point, since the torx
was nowhere local, I decided to take it apart in a different way, that
made it more difficult, but didn't require removing that one bolt.

I'd still use those multi socket things for typical stuff, where it's not
super tight, not in a bad spot, where the consequences of rounding it off
aren't profound. But for a critical thing, there is no sub for the right
wrench.

On Tue, 2 Aug 2016 09:56:17 -0700, Taxed and Spent
wrote:

On 8/2/2016 9:45 AM, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 2 Aug 2016 09:21:01 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

(Once I get them off, they will be replaced with hex nuts).

I'd check out Sears. They have a bunch of sockets and such that are
supposed to universally fit a lot of nuts and bolts. How well they
actually fit depends on the bolt I guess. An 8 pt socket is one that
will fit, they should have that too. Or if you want something cheap,
HF perhaps.

Never used a "gator socket" before. They have been around for years.
One sockets fits numerous sized nuts and bolts. The pins depress so it
fits different sizes.

https://tinyurl.com/zcoqelw



I have to think such a gator socket would not work well for a really
tight rusted on bolt.

You make a valid point. Apparently, in that socket, the pins also
work like a 'cam action' grip when turned. More torque - more grip.
Good enough? Can't say.

On Tuesday, August 2, 2016 at 12:40:04 PM UTC-5, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 2 Aug 2016 09:56:17 -0700, Taxed and Spent
wrote:

On 8/2/2016 9:45 AM, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 2 Aug 2016 09:21:01 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

(Once I get them off, they will be replaced with hex nuts).

I'd check out Sears. They have a bunch of sockets and such that are
supposed to universally fit a lot of nuts and bolts. How well they
actually fit depends on the bolt I guess. An 8 pt socket is one that
will fit, they should have that too. Or if you want something cheap,
HF perhaps.

Never used a "gator socket" before. They have been around for years.
One sockets fits numerous sized nuts and bolts. The pins depress so it
fits different sizes.

https://tinyurl.com/zcoqelw



I have to think such a gator socket would not work well for a really
tight rusted on bolt.

You make a valid point. Apparently, in that socket, the pins also
work like a 'cam action' grip when turned. More torque - more grip.
Good enough? Can't say.

Excessive torque (rusted/over-tightened) and the pins bend and don't return. Each one has a spring...

On Tue, 2 Aug 2016 11:38:18 -0700 (PDT), bob_villa
wrote:

On Tuesday, August 2, 2016 at 12:40:04 PM UTC-5, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 2 Aug 2016 09:56:17 -0700, Taxed and Spent
wrote:

On 8/2/2016 9:45 AM, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 2 Aug 2016 09:21:01 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

(Once I get them off, they will be replaced with hex nuts).

I'd check out Sears. They have a bunch of sockets and such that are
supposed to universally fit a lot of nuts and bolts. How well they
actually fit depends on the bolt I guess. An 8 pt socket is one that
will fit, they should have that too. Or if you want something cheap,
HF perhaps.

Never used a "gator socket" before. They have been around for years.
One sockets fits numerous sized nuts and bolts. The pins depress so it
fits different sizes.

https://tinyurl.com/zcoqelw



I have to think such a gator socket would not work well for a really
tight rusted on bolt.

You make a valid point. Apparently, in that socket, the pins also
work like a 'cam action' grip when turned. More torque - more grip.
Good enough? Can't say.

Excessive torque (rusted/over-tightened) and the pins bend and don't return. Each one has a spring...

Then you have a perfect custom socket for that nut ;-)

I agree, once you get them off, put in a hex nut and use a 6 point
socket from now on

On Tue, 02 Aug 2016 06:08:22 -0500, Vic Smith
wrote:

On Tue, 02 Aug 2016 04:43:57 -0400, wrote:

On my old Farmall tractor I have square nuts on the drawbar attachments.
The "bolts: that these are on, are not just bolts, but some special
swivel device similar to an eye bolt. These square nuts are rather large
and need a 1-1/4" open end wrench. The problem is that these nuts are
right next to the transmission and there is no room to swing an open end
wrench. The only way I can get these nuts off, is with a socket. But
even looking at antique tools at auctions, I have never seen a socket
for square nuts?

Normally, if it's just a regular bolt, I'll just use my angle grinder
and grind the nut off, but this is not an option here.

Has anyone ever seen sockets for square nuts, and know a source to buy
them? If they are available, I'm sure the socket would be cheaper than
having to replace those special bolts.

(Once I get them off, they will be replaced with hex nuts).


You want 8 point sockets. Expensive.
But a cheap way is to use a pipe wrench.

I would normally use a pipe wrench, but since there is not room to swing
an open end wrench, there surely is no room to swing a pipe wrench.

On Tue, 02 Aug 2016 17:21:06 -0400, wrote:


I would normally use a pipe wrench, but since there is not room to swing
an open end wrench, there surely is no room to swing a pipe wrench.


Can you get a crow foot in there.

On 8/2/16 8:18 AM, RonNNN wrote:
In article , says...

On 8/2/2016 1:43 AM, wrote:
On my old Farmall tractor I have square nuts on the drawbar attachments.
The "bolts: that these are on, are not just bolts, but some special
swivel device similar to an eye bolt. These square nuts are rather large
and need a 1-1/4" open end wrench. The problem is that these nuts are
right next to the transmission and there is no room to swing an open end
wrench. The only way I can get these nuts off, is with a socket. But
even looking at antique tools at auctions, I have never seen a socket
for square nuts?

Normally, if it's just a regular bolt, I'll just use my angle grinder
and grind the nut off, but this is not an option here.

Has anyone ever seen sockets for square nuts, and know a source to buy
them? If they are available, I'm sure the socket would be cheaper than
having to replace those special bolts.

(Once I get them off, they will be replaced with hex nuts).




When you find the socket you want to use (a 8 or 12 point should work),
I suggest you use an impact driver to take it off, after applying WD40
or some such.

I'll make another suggestion, "PB Blaster" works really good on rusted
nuts and bolts.

Hot air will probably work if those fail. These little things
are handy.
http://www.ruralking.com/hobart-acetylene-tag-a-long-kit-770500.html

On Tue, 02 Aug 2016 17:21:06 -0400, wrote:

On Tue, 02 Aug 2016 06:08:22 -0500, Vic Smith
wrote:

On Tue, 02 Aug 2016 04:43:57 -0400, wrote:

On my old Farmall tractor I have square nuts on the drawbar attachments.
The "bolts: that these are on, are not just bolts, but some special
swivel device similar to an eye bolt. These square nuts are rather large
and need a 1-1/4" open end wrench. The problem is that these nuts are
right next to the transmission and there is no room to swing an open end
wrench. The only way I can get these nuts off, is with a socket. But
even looking at antique tools at auctions, I have never seen a socket
for square nuts?

Normally, if it's just a regular bolt, I'll just use my angle grinder
and grind the nut off, but this is not an option here.

Has anyone ever seen sockets for square nuts, and know a source to buy
them? If they are available, I'm sure the socket would be cheaper than
having to replace those special bolts.

(Once I get them off, they will be replaced with hex nuts).


You want 8 point sockets. Expensive.
But a cheap way is to use a pipe wrench.

I would normally use a pipe wrench, but since there is not room to swing
an open end wrench, there surely is no room to swing a pipe wrench.

Make a LA (Lower Alabama) socket. Find a steel pipe that will fit or
almost fit down on the square nut. Hammer the pipe square, fit over the
nut and use a pipe wrench to turn it.
--
Mr.E

In article , says...

On 8/2/16 8:18 AM, RonNNN wrote:
In article , says...

On 8/2/2016 1:43 AM, wrote:
On my old Farmall tractor I have square nuts on the drawbar attachments.
The "bolts: that these are on, are not just bolts, but some special
swivel device similar to an eye bolt. These square nuts are rather large
and need a 1-1/4" open end wrench. The problem is that these nuts are
right next to the transmission and there is no room to swing an open end
wrench. The only way I can get these nuts off, is with a socket. But
even looking at antique tools at auctions, I have never seen a socket
for square nuts?

Normally, if it's just a regular bolt, I'll just use my angle grinder
and grind the nut off, but this is not an option here.

Has anyone ever seen sockets for square nuts, and know a source to buy
them? If they are available, I'm sure the socket would be cheaper than
having to replace those special bolts.

(Once I get them off, they will be replaced with hex nuts).




When you find the socket you want to use (a 8 or 12 point should work),
I suggest you use an impact driver to take it off, after applying WD40
or some such.

I'll make another suggestion, "PB Blaster" works really good on rusted
nuts and bolts.

Hot air will probably work if those fail. These little things
are handy.
http://www.ruralking.com/hobart-acetylene-tag-a-long-kit-770500.html

That's probably a tad bit more than the OP wants to spend to loosen one
square nut though.

--
RonNNN

On Tue, 02 Aug 2016 19:21:48 -0400, wrote:

On Tue, 02 Aug 2016 17:21:06 -0400, wrote:


I would normally use a pipe wrench, but since there is not room to swing
an open end wrench, there surely is no room to swing a pipe wrench.


Can you get a crow foot in there.

I thought about a crow foot, but I would have to buy one. After trying
all sorts of things for the last 3 days, I got aggressive and removed
the entire drawbar from the tractor. Once it was off, I could easily
remove that nut with an open end wrench, hammer and PB blaster. All I
got to do now is buy a new hex nut, and put the whole thing back
together. Sometimes the "long way" is the only way to do a job. It
required removing 8 well rusted bolts, but I accomplished the job, and
without any large expense. Every bolt will now get a dose of anti-sieze
on the threads, so I can easily remove them in the future, and new lock
washers. This Farmall tractor is 67 years old. I was actually surprised
all 8 of those bolts came apart without a torch, (but did need a long
pipe for leverage and a big hammer).

On 8/2/2016 8:18 AM, RonNNN wrote:
In article , says...

On 8/2/2016 1:43 AM, wrote:
On my old Farmall tractor I have square nuts on the drawbar attachments.
The "bolts: that these are on, are not just bolts, but some special


[snip]


When you find the socket you want to use (a 8 or 12 point should work),
I suggest you use an impact driver to take it off, after applying WD40
or some such.

I'll make another suggestion, "PB Blaster" works really good on rusted
nuts and bolts.


I'd add another "solution" (both literal and figurative) and that's Kroil

http://www.kanolabs.com/google/?gclid=CN3RpKKrpc4CFZSIaQod5UsE_Q

Read about this stuff last year and bought a can. It makes regular
penetrating oil and WD-40, etc. look like maple syrup. I think you
could spray a VW Bug with this stuff and then pull it through an 18"
culvert.g

In article om,
says...

On 8/2/2016 8:18 AM, RonNNN wrote:
In article , says...

On 8/2/2016 1:43 AM, wrote:
On my old Farmall tractor I have square nuts on the drawbar attachments.
The "bolts: that these are on, are not just bolts, but some special


[snip]


When you find the socket you want to use (a 8 or 12 point should work),
I suggest you use an impact driver to take it off, after applying WD40
or some such.

I'll make another suggestion, "PB Blaster" works really good on rusted
nuts and bolts.


I'd add another "solution" (both literal and figurative) and that's Kroil

http://www.kanolabs.com/google/?gclid=CN3RpKKrpc4CFZSIaQod5UsE_Q

Read about this stuff last year and bought a can. It makes regular
penetrating oil and WD-40, etc. look like maple syrup. I think you
could spray a VW Bug with this stuff and then pull it through an 18"
culvert.g

WD40 is good for drying out wet stuff and stopping squeaks, but doesn't
work as a penetrating oil very good. I've always had good luck with PB.
I've never tried Kroil before, but if it works as good as PB it's got to
be good stuff.

--
RonNNN

In article om,
says...


I'd add another "solution" (both literal and figurative) and that's Kroil

http://www.kanolabs.com/google/?gclid=CN3RpKKrpc4CFZSIaQod5UsE_Q

Read about this stuff last year and bought a can. It makes regular
penetrating oil and WD-40, etc. look like maple syrup. I think you
could spray a VW Bug with this stuff and then pull it through an 18"
culvert.g

Where I worked we used the Kroil by the case. We had lots of things
outside and if we knew we would have to work on them, we would spray
them with Kroil the day before.

I have sprayed rusty bolts seveal days in a row and the usually come
right off.

We had lots of high wattage bulbs of all kinds of light. The mercury
vapor and others. A shot of Kroil oil up the base of them made them
almost fall out.





---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

On Wednesday, August 3, 2016 at 8:32:25 AM UTC-5, RonNNN wrote:
In article om,
says...

On 8/2/2016 8:18 AM, RonNNN wrote:
In article , says...

On 8/2/2016 1:43 AM, wrote:
On my old Farmall tractor I have square nuts on the drawbar attachments.
The "bolts: that these are on, are not just bolts, but some special


[snip]


When you find the socket you want to use (a 8 or 12 point should work),
I suggest you use an impact driver to take it off, after applying WD40
or some such.

I'll make another suggestion, "PB Blaster" works really good on rusted
nuts and bolts.


I'd add another "solution" (both literal and figurative) and that's Kroil

http://www.kanolabs.com/google/?gclid=CN3RpKKrpc4CFZSIaQod5UsE_Q

Read about this stuff last year and bought a can. It makes regular
penetrating oil and WD-40, etc. look like maple syrup. I think you
could spray a VW Bug with this stuff and then pull it through an 18"
culvert.g

WD40 is good for drying out wet stuff and stopping squeaks, but doesn't
work as a penetrating oil very good. I've always had good luck with PB.
I've never tried Kroil before, but if it works as good as PB it's got to
be good stuff.

--
RonNNN

Do a search for "ATF and acetone"...auto mechanics swear by it (but they swear alot anyway!)

On Wed, 3 Aug 2016 10:29:58 -0400, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

In article om,
says...


I'd add another "solution" (both literal and figurative) and that's Kroil

http://www.kanolabs.com/google/?gclid=CN3RpKKrpc4CFZSIaQod5UsE_Q

Read about this stuff last year and bought a can. It makes regular
penetrating oil and WD-40, etc. look like maple syrup. I think you
could spray a VW Bug with this stuff and then pull it through an 18"
culvert.g

Where I worked we used the Kroil by the case. We had lots of things
outside and if we knew we would have to work on them, we would spray
them with Kroil the day before.

I have sprayed rusty bolts seveal days in a row and the usually come
right off.

We had lots of high wattage bulbs of all kinds of light. The mercury
vapor and others. A shot of Kroil oil up the base of them made them
almost fall out.


I've had frozen bolts, used Liquid Wrench on them a day two before.
Then a few taps with a wood block / screwdriver handle/ hammer to
vibrate the bolt and the liquid penetrates the threads on a nut or
bolt.

In article ,
says...

On Wednesday, August 3, 2016 at 8:32:25 AM UTC-5, RonNNN wrote:
In article om,
says...

On 8/2/2016 8:18 AM, RonNNN wrote:
In article , says...

On 8/2/2016 1:43 AM, wrote:
On my old Farmall tractor I have square nuts on the drawbar attachments.
The "bolts: that these are on, are not just bolts, but some special


[snip]


When you find the socket you want to use (a 8 or 12 point should work),
I suggest you use an impact driver to take it off, after applying WD40
or some such.

I'll make another suggestion, "PB Blaster" works really good on rusted
nuts and bolts.


I'd add another "solution" (both literal and figurative) and that's Kroil

http://www.kanolabs.com/google/?gclid=CN3RpKKrpc4CFZSIaQod5UsE_Q

Read about this stuff last year and bought a can. It makes regular
penetrating oil and WD-40, etc. look like maple syrup. I think you
could spray a VW Bug with this stuff and then pull it through an 18"
culvert.g

WD40 is good for drying out wet stuff and stopping squeaks, but doesn't
work as a penetrating oil very good. I've always had good luck with PB.
I've never tried Kroil before, but if it works as good as PB it's got to
be good stuff.

--
RonNNN

Do a search for "ATF and acetone"...auto mechanics swear by it (but they swear alot anyway!)

Speaking as a retired auto mechanic (45+ years), I'd be more inclined to
buy something that I know works off the shelf than to try wearing a
chemist hat to achieve the same results. I watched that first video from
your suggested search, and noticed he let the concoction he made work for
a week to achieve what I believe PB would have done in a couple of hours.
Liquid wrench was never a go to product for me, which is what he was
comparing his concoction to.

--
RonNNN

On Wednesday, August 3, 2016 at 10:54:15 AM UTC-5, RonNNN wrote:
In article ,
says...

Do a search for "ATF and acetone"...auto mechanics swear by it (but they swear alot anyway!)

Speaking as a retired auto mechanic (45+ years), I'd be more inclined to
buy something that I know works off the shelf than to try wearing a
chemist hat to achieve the same results. I watched that first video from
your suggested search, and noticed he let the concoction he made work for
a week to achieve what I believe PB would have done in a couple of hours.
Liquid wrench was never a go to product for me, which is what he was
comparing his concoction to.

--
RonNNN

With do respect...others might want to try it...you're not the only one here.

In article ,
says...

On Wednesday, August 3, 2016 at 10:54:15 AM UTC-5, RonNNN wrote:
In article ,
says...

Do a search for "ATF and acetone"...auto mechanics swear by it (but they swear alot anyway!)

Speaking as a retired auto mechanic (45+ years), I'd be more inclined to
buy something that I know works off the shelf than to try wearing a
chemist hat to achieve the same results. I watched that first video from
your suggested search, and noticed he let the concoction he made work for
a week to achieve what I believe PB would have done in a couple of hours.
Liquid wrench was never a go to product for me, which is what he was
comparing his concoction to.

--
RonNNN

With do respect...others might want to try it...you're not the only one here.

I never said they shouldn't, I said what *I* would be inclined to do. Why
do you have a problem with me voicing my opinion?

By the way, I suspect you meant to say "with due respect", but you'll
have to forgive me if I don't believe you. You're just one of the *many*
experts here that know the best way to do *everything*.

--
RonNNN

On Wed, 3 Aug 2016 10:34:01 -0700 (PDT), bob_villa
wrote:


I never said they shouldn't, I said what *I* would be inclined to do. Why
do you have a problem with me voicing my opinion?

By the way, I suspect you meant to say "with due respect", but you'll
have to forgive me if I don't believe you. You're just one of the *many*
experts here that know the best way to do *everything*.

--
RonNNN

I haven't transfused all my caffeine yet, yes it's good you could figure out
what I was saying. I don't see how sharing something makes me a know-it
-all? I will tread lighter next time.


\|||/
(o o)
,----ooO--(_)-------.
| Please |
| don't feed the |
| TROLL! |
'--------------Ooo--'
|__|__|
|| ||
ooO Ooo

On Wednesday, August 3, 2016 at 11:42:58 AM UTC-5, RonNNN wrote:
In article ,
says...

On Wednesday, August 3, 2016 at 10:54:15 AM UTC-5, RonNNN wrote:
In article ,
says...

Do a search for "ATF and acetone"...auto mechanics swear by it (but they swear alot anyway!)

Speaking as a retired auto mechanic (45+ years), I'd be more inclined to
buy something that I know works off the shelf than to try wearing a
chemist hat to achieve the same results. I watched that first video from
your suggested search, and noticed he let the concoction he made work for
a week to achieve what I believe PB would have done in a couple of hours.
Liquid wrench was never a go to product for me, which is what he was
comparing his concoction to.

--
RonNNN

With do respect...others might want to try it...you're not the only one here.

I never said they shouldn't, I said what *I* would be inclined to do. Why
do you have a problem with me voicing my opinion?

By the way, I suspect you meant to say "with due respect", but you'll
have to forgive me if I don't believe you. You're just one of the *many*
experts here that know the best way to do *everything*.

--
RonNNN

I haven't transfused all my caffeine yet, yes it's good you could figure out what I was saying. I don't see how sharing something makes me a know-it-all? I will tread lighter next time.

On Tue, 02 Aug 2016 19:21:48 -0400, wrote:

On Tue, 02 Aug 2016 17:21:06 -0400, wrote:


I would normally use a pipe wrench, but since there is not room to swing
an open end wrench, there surely is no room to swing a pipe wrench.


Can you get a crow foot in there.

A nut splitter (cracker).

Sharp cold chisel & hammer...

On 8/3/2016 11:07 AM, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 02 Aug 2016 19:21:48 -0400, wrote:

On Tue, 02 Aug 2016 17:21:06 -0400, wrote:


I would normally use a pipe wrench, but since there is not room to swing
an open end wrench, there surely is no room to swing a pipe wrench.


Can you get a crow foot in there.

A nut splitter (cracker).

Sharp cold chisel & hammer...


thermite grenade

On Wed, 3 Aug 2016 11:17:54 -0700, Taxed and Spent
wrote:

On 8/3/2016 11:07 AM, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 02 Aug 2016 19:21:48 -0400, wrote:

On Tue, 02 Aug 2016 17:21:06 -0400, wrote:


I would normally use a pipe wrench, but since there is not room to swing
an open end wrench, there surely is no room to swing a pipe wrench.


Can you get a crow foot in there.

A nut splitter (cracker).

Sharp cold chisel & hammer...


thermite grenade

Naw. You need a hot fuse for thermite.

Oren posted for all of us...



On Wed, 3 Aug 2016 10:29:58 -0400, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

In article om,
says...


I'd add another "solution" (both literal and figurative) and that's Kroil

http://www.kanolabs.com/google/?gclid=CN3RpKKrpc4CFZSIaQod5UsE_Q

Read about this stuff last year and bought a can. It makes regular
penetrating oil and WD-40, etc. look like maple syrup. I think you
could spray a VW Bug with this stuff and then pull it through an 18"
culvert.g

Where I worked we used the Kroil by the case. We had lots of things
outside and if we knew we would have to work on them, we would spray
them with Kroil the day before.

I have sprayed rusty bolts seveal days in a row and the usually come
right off.

We had lots of high wattage bulbs of all kinds of light. The mercury
vapor and others. A shot of Kroil oil up the base of them made them
almost fall out.


I've had frozen bolts, used Liquid Wrench on them a day two before.
Then a few taps with a wood block / screwdriver handle/ hammer to
vibrate the bolt and the liquid penetrates the threads on a nut or
bolt.

Would a baton work?

--
Tekkie

On Tue, 02 Aug 2016 04:43:57 -0400, wrote:

On my old Farmall tractor I have square nuts on the drawbar attachments.
The "bolts: that these are on, are not just bolts, but some special
swivel device similar to an eye bolt. These square nuts are rather large
and need a 1-1/4" open end wrench. The problem is that these nuts are
right next to the transmission and there is no room to swing an open end
wrench. The only way I can get these nuts off, is with a socket. But
even looking at antique tools at auctions, I have never seen a socket
for square nuts?

Normally, if it's just a regular bolt, I'll just use my angle grinder
and grind the nut off, but this is not an option here.

Has anyone ever seen sockets for square nuts, and know a source to buy
them? If they are available, I'm sure the socket would be cheaper than
having to replace those special bolts.

(Once I get them off, they will be replaced with hex nuts).

8 point sockets are quite readily available and are made for that
purpose. Not sure how big yhey go. Another solution is a piece of
square tubinh the right size, welded to an old atandard socket.

On Tue, 02 Aug 2016 06:08:22 -0500, Vic Smith
wrote:

On Tue, 02 Aug 2016 04:43:57 -0400, wrote:

On my old Farmall tractor I have square nuts on the drawbar attachments.
The "bolts: that these are on, are not just bolts, but some special
swivel device similar to an eye bolt. These square nuts are rather large
and need a 1-1/4" open end wrench. The problem is that these nuts are
right next to the transmission and there is no room to swing an open end
wrench. The only way I can get these nuts off, is with a socket. But
even looking at antique tools at auctions, I have never seen a socket
for square nuts?

Normally, if it's just a regular bolt, I'll just use my angle grinder
and grind the nut off, but this is not an option here.

Has anyone ever seen sockets for square nuts, and know a source to buy
them? If they are available, I'm sure the socket would be cheaper than
having to replace those special bolts.

(Once I get them off, they will be replaced with hex nuts).


You want 8 point sockets. Expensive.
But a cheap way is to use a pipe wrench.
If he can't get an open end wrench on, a pipe wrench doesn't stand a
chance!!!!

On Tue, 2 Aug 2016 05:01:13 -0700, Taxed and Spent
wrote:

On 8/2/2016 1:43 AM, wrote:
On my old Farmall tractor I have square nuts on the drawbar attachments.
The "bolts: that these are on, are not just bolts, but some special
swivel device similar to an eye bolt. These square nuts are rather large
and need a 1-1/4" open end wrench. The problem is that these nuts are
right next to the transmission and there is no room to swing an open end
wrench. The only way I can get these nuts off, is with a socket. But
even looking at antique tools at auctions, I have never seen a socket
for square nuts?

Normally, if it's just a regular bolt, I'll just use my angle grinder
and grind the nut off, but this is not an option here.

Has anyone ever seen sockets for square nuts, and know a source to buy
them? If they are available, I'm sure the socket would be cheaper than
having to replace those special bolts.

(Once I get them off, they will be replaced with hex nuts).




When you find the socket you want to use (a 8 or 12 point should work),
I suggest you use an impact driver to take it off, after applying WD40
or some such.
a 12 point on the impact will round the corners in about 3 seconds,
and likely break the socket at the same time. 8 point is made for the
job.

On Wed, 3 Aug 2016 08:23:35 -0700 (PDT), bob_villa
wrote:

On Wednesday, August 3, 2016 at 8:32:25 AM UTC-5, RonNNN wrote:
In article om,
says...

On 8/2/2016 8:18 AM, RonNNN wrote:
In article , says...

On 8/2/2016 1:43 AM, wrote:
On my old Farmall tractor I have square nuts on the drawbar attachments.
The "bolts: that these are on, are not just bolts, but some special


[snip]


When you find the socket you want to use (a 8 or 12 point should work),
I suggest you use an impact driver to take it off, after applying WD40
or some such.

I'll make another suggestion, "PB Blaster" works really good on rusted
nuts and bolts.


I'd add another "solution" (both literal and figurative) and that's Kroil

http://www.kanolabs.com/google/?gclid=CN3RpKKrpc4CFZSIaQod5UsE_Q

Read about this stuff last year and bought a can. It makes regular
penetrating oil and WD-40, etc. look like maple syrup. I think you
could spray a VW Bug with this stuff and then pull it through an 18"
culvert.g

WD40 is good for drying out wet stuff and stopping squeaks, but doesn't
work as a penetrating oil very good. I've always had good luck with PB.
I've never tried Kroil before, but if it works as good as PB it's got to
be good stuff.

--
RonNNN

Do a search for "ATF and acetone"...auto mechanics swear by it (but they swear alot anyway!)
"Ed's Red"