A long time ago I needed to cap a pipe, so I decided to try a SharkBite End
Cap just to see what they were like. It worked so well that I said to
myself, "Self, maybe you should toss a couple of End Caps in the plumbing
drawer just in case you need to cap a pipe in an emergency."

So, here it is, 9 PM on a Friday night and I walked down into the basement
to find that the pipe from the water heater has developed a pin hole leak.

So, off with the main, a couple of quick cuts to remove the bad section,
push on 2 caps and back on with the main.

No showers tomorrow morning, but at least we have water tonight. Tomorrow,
I can take my time replacing the bad section.

....and that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop.

On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 18:34:12 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

A long time ago I needed to cap a pipe, so I decided to try a SharkBite End
Cap just to see what they were like. It worked so well that I said to
myself, "Self, maybe you should toss a couple of End Caps in the plumbing
drawer just in case you need to cap a pipe in an emergency."

So, here it is, 9 PM on a Friday night and I walked down into the basement
to find that the pipe from the water heater has developed a pin hole leak.

So, off with the main, a couple of quick cuts to remove the bad section,
push on 2 caps and back on with the main.

No showers tomorrow morning, but at least we have water tonight. Tomorrow,
I can take my time replacing the bad section.

...and that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop.

What do you think caused the pinhole leak?

On Friday, March 18, 2016 at 11:47:44 PM UTC-4, Vic Smith wrote:
On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 18:34:12 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

A long time ago I needed to cap a pipe, so I decided to try a SharkBite End
Cap just to see what they were like. It worked so well that I said to
myself, "Self, maybe you should toss a couple of End Caps in the plumbing
drawer just in case you need to cap a pipe in an emergency."

So, here it is, 9 PM on a Friday night and I walked down into the basement
to find that the pipe from the water heater has developed a pin hole leak.

So, off with the main, a couple of quick cuts to remove the bad section,
push on 2 caps and back on with the main.

No showers tomorrow morning, but at least we have water tonight. Tomorrow,
I can take my time replacing the bad section.

...and that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop.

What do you think caused the pinhole leak?

I don't know. The pinhole was on a short (4") section of pipe between
a T and a 90. I cut the pipe exactly at the pin hole, leaving about
1" sticking out the T. (That left me enough room to put the cap on. I'll
need to replace the T and the 90 tomorrow)

Anyway, after I cut the pipe I noticed that the pin hole had begun to
turn into a slit, I assume from the pressure of the cutter. That tells
me the leak was about to get much bigger.

As I said, I cut the pipe exactly at the pin hole and this is what I found
inside the pipe right at the cut. (Ignore the outside of the pipe. I had
cleaned the outside before cutting it.)

http://tinyurl.com/CutPipe

Full Link:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psl6dtvfep.jpg

I can't tell if the "scale" that you see is buildup or what's left behind
from disintegrating copper. It extends down about 1/2" but it is all around
the inside of the pipe at the cut, not just on the side where the hole was.

I have a plumbing supply house that I like, so I may take the piece over
there and have them tell me what's going on. In any case, the rest of that
short piece of pipe will be gone first thing in the morning.

On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 21:30:16 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Friday, March 18, 2016 at 11:47:44 PM UTC-4, Vic Smith wrote:
On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 18:34:12 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

A long time ago I needed to cap a pipe, so I decided to try a SharkBite End
Cap just to see what they were like. It worked so well that I said to
myself, "Self, maybe you should toss a couple of End Caps in the plumbing
drawer just in case you need to cap a pipe in an emergency."

So, here it is, 9 PM on a Friday night and I walked down into the basement
to find that the pipe from the water heater has developed a pin hole leak.

So, off with the main, a couple of quick cuts to remove the bad section,
push on 2 caps and back on with the main.

No showers tomorrow morning, but at least we have water tonight. Tomorrow,
I can take my time replacing the bad section.

...and that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop.

What do you think caused the pinhole leak?

I don't know. The pinhole was on a short (4") section of pipe between
a T and a 90. I cut the pipe exactly at the pin hole, leaving about
1" sticking out the T. (That left me enough room to put the cap on. I'll
need to replace the T and the 90 tomorrow)

Anyway, after I cut the pipe I noticed that the pin hole had begun to
turn into a slit, I assume from the pressure of the cutter. That tells
me the leak was about to get much bigger.

As I said, I cut the pipe exactly at the pin hole and this is what I found
inside the pipe right at the cut. (Ignore the outside of the pipe. I had
cleaned the outside before cutting it.)

http://tinyurl.com/CutPipe

Full Link:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psl6dtvfep.jpg

I can't tell if the "scale" that you see is buildup or what's left behind
from disintegrating copper. It extends down about 1/2" but it is all around
the inside of the pipe at the cut, not just on the side where the hole was.

I have a plumbing supply house that I like, so I may take the piece over
there and have them tell me what's going on. In any case, the rest of that
short piece of pipe will be gone first thing in the morning.

Let us know what they say. I'm curious. I'll be repiping my
galvanized soon with copper. Because I don't have my threading
tools anymore, copper pipe is cheaper, and it might make a difference
in the house's resale value.
The piping is 58 years old. No leaks, but the flow is getting
restricted enough that it's time to do it.

On Saturday, March 19, 2016 at 12:58:44 AM UTC-4, Vic Smith wrote:
On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 21:30:16 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Friday, March 18, 2016 at 11:47:44 PM UTC-4, Vic Smith wrote:
On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 18:34:12 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

A long time ago I needed to cap a pipe, so I decided to try a SharkBite End
Cap just to see what they were like. It worked so well that I said to
myself, "Self, maybe you should toss a couple of End Caps in the plumbing
drawer just in case you need to cap a pipe in an emergency."

So, here it is, 9 PM on a Friday night and I walked down into the basement
to find that the pipe from the water heater has developed a pin hole leak.

So, off with the main, a couple of quick cuts to remove the bad section,
push on 2 caps and back on with the main.

No showers tomorrow morning, but at least we have water tonight. Tomorrow,
I can take my time replacing the bad section.

...and that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop.

What do you think caused the pinhole leak?

I don't know. The pinhole was on a short (4") section of pipe between
a T and a 90. I cut the pipe exactly at the pin hole, leaving about
1" sticking out the T. (That left me enough room to put the cap on. I'll
need to replace the T and the 90 tomorrow)

Anyway, after I cut the pipe I noticed that the pin hole had begun to
turn into a slit, I assume from the pressure of the cutter. That tells
me the leak was about to get much bigger.

As I said, I cut the pipe exactly at the pin hole and this is what I found
inside the pipe right at the cut. (Ignore the outside of the pipe. I had
cleaned the outside before cutting it.)

http://tinyurl.com/CutPipe

Full Link:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psl6dtvfep.jpg

I can't tell if the "scale" that you see is buildup or what's left behind
from disintegrating copper. It extends down about 1/2" but it is all around
the inside of the pipe at the cut, not just on the side where the hole was.

I have a plumbing supply house that I like, so I may take the piece over
there and have them tell me what's going on. In any case, the rest of that
short piece of pipe will be gone first thing in the morning.

Let us know what they say. I'm curious. I'll be repiping my
galvanized soon with copper. Because I don't have my threading
tools anymore, copper pipe is cheaper, and it might make a difference
in the house's resale value.
The piping is 58 years old. No leaks, but the flow is getting
restricted enough that it's time to do it.

save yourself tons of work and gobs of money and use PEX!

its cheap, works awesome, no one will steal it, it never corrodes.

On Sat, 19 Mar 2016 04:24:44 -0700 (PDT), bob haller
wrote:

On Saturday, March 19, 2016 at 12:58:44 AM UTC-4, Vic Smith wrote:

The piping is 58 years old. No leaks, but the flow is getting
restricted enough that it's time to do it.

save yourself tons of work and gobs of money and use PEX!

its cheap, works awesome, no one will steal it, it never corrodes.

Code here is galvanized or copper. PEX not allowed.

On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 21:30:16 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:




As I said, I cut the pipe exactly at the pin hole and this is what I found
inside the pipe right at the cut. (Ignore the outside of the pipe. I had
cleaned the outside before cutting it.)

http://tinyurl.com/CutPipe

Full Link:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psl6dtvfep.jpg

I can't tell if the "scale" that you see is buildup or what's left behind
from disintegrating copper. It extends down about 1/2" but it is all around
the inside of the pipe at the cut, not just on the side where the hole was.

I have a plumbing supply house that I like, so I may take the piece over
there and have them tell me what's going on. In any case, the rest of that
short piece of pipe will be gone first thing in the morning.

I'd also get my water tested. In some parts of the country it can
corrode copper.

On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 23:58:45 -0500, Vic Smith
wrote:




Let us know what they say. I'm curious. I'll be repiping my
galvanized soon with copper. Because I don't have my threading
tools anymore, copper pipe is cheaper, and it might make a difference
in the house's resale value.
The piping is 58 years old. No leaks, but the flow is getting
restricted enough that it's time to do it.


I'd also consider PEX. Easy to work with.
Personally, I'd not buy a house with galvanized that was slowing down
so it is a good thing to replace it if you are eventually selling.

On 3/19/2016 7:24 AM, bob haller wrote:
On Saturday, March 19, 2016 at 12:58:44 AM UTC-4, Vic Smith wrote:
Let us know what they say. I'm curious. I'll be repiping my
galvanized soon with copper. Because I don't have my threading
tools anymore, copper pipe is cheaper, and it might make a difference
in the house's resale value.
The piping is 58 years old. No leaks, but the flow is getting
restricted enough that it's time to do it.

save yourself tons of work and gobs of money and use PEX!

its cheap, works awesome, no one will steal it, it never corrodes.


Said it better than I could have. I did hear of
someone in the city who had his copper pipes stolen
out of the house one night.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Saturday, March 19, 2016 at 12:58:44 AM UTC-4, Vic Smith wrote:
On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 21:30:16 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Friday, March 18, 2016 at 11:47:44 PM UTC-4, Vic Smith wrote:
On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 18:34:12 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

A long time ago I needed to cap a pipe, so I decided to try a SharkBite End
Cap just to see what they were like. It worked so well that I said to
myself, "Self, maybe you should toss a couple of End Caps in the plumbing
drawer just in case you need to cap a pipe in an emergency."

So, here it is, 9 PM on a Friday night and I walked down into the basement
to find that the pipe from the water heater has developed a pin hole leak.

So, off with the main, a couple of quick cuts to remove the bad section,
push on 2 caps and back on with the main.

No showers tomorrow morning, but at least we have water tonight. Tomorrow,
I can take my time replacing the bad section.

...and that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop.

What do you think caused the pinhole leak?

I don't know. The pinhole was on a short (4") section of pipe between
a T and a 90. I cut the pipe exactly at the pin hole, leaving about
1" sticking out the T. (That left me enough room to put the cap on. I'll
need to replace the T and the 90 tomorrow)

Anyway, after I cut the pipe I noticed that the pin hole had begun to
turn into a slit, I assume from the pressure of the cutter. That tells
me the leak was about to get much bigger.

As I said, I cut the pipe exactly at the pin hole and this is what I found
inside the pipe right at the cut. (Ignore the outside of the pipe. I had
cleaned the outside before cutting it.)

http://tinyurl.com/CutPipe

Full Link:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psl6dtvfep.jpg

I can't tell if the "scale" that you see is buildup or what's left behind
from disintegrating copper. It extends down about 1/2" but it is all around
the inside of the pipe at the cut, not just on the side where the hole was.

I have a plumbing supply house that I like, so I may take the piece over
there and have them tell me what's going on. In any case, the rest of that
short piece of pipe will be gone first thing in the morning.

Let us know what they say. I'm curious. I'll be repiping my
galvanized soon with copper. Because I don't have my threading
tools anymore, copper pipe is cheaper, and it might make a difference
in the house's resale value.
The piping is 58 years old. No leaks, but the flow is getting
restricted enough that it's time to do it.

I finished sweating in the new section. I noticed that when I tried
to use the same type fittings as the originals - a T and a 90, the
horizontal pipe from the WH would not line up with the 90.

One of the issues (I think) is that the pipe that goes to the upstairs
bathroom from the top of the T is not a straight run. They apparently
used a bender to put some curves in the pipe. Therefore the pipe coming
out of the bottom of the T was not at a right angle to horizontal pipe
to the water heater, even though they had used a 90 to connect those
2 pipes.

In the image linked to below, you can see the curve in the pipe as it
comes through the sub floor.

I think the original installation was under tension, although things didn't
really "spring" when I cut out the leaking section last night. I wonder if
the tension had relaxed because the original 4" section that came out of
the bottom of the T had weakened over time and eventually failed. Just a
guess.

What I was able to do was use two 45's instead of a single 90. You can
see one coming out of the bottom of the T and another about 3" down. I also
put 1/4" spacers between the bottom of the joists and the horizontal pipe
that comes out of the middle of the T. This set up allowed everything to
go back together in a "relaxed" manner.

The new section starts with the T and ends with the repair coupling near
the electrical wire. The leak was in that short pipe between the two
45's. Originally that pipe had a 90 at the bottom and went directly into
the bottom of the T.

http://tinyurl.com/NotLeakingYet

Full Link:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psicmvmj9x.jpg

On Friday, March 18, 2016 at 10:47:44 PM UTC-5, Vic Smith wrote:
On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 18:34:12 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

A long time ago I needed to cap a pipe, so I decided to try a SharkBite End
Cap just to see what they were like. It worked so well that I said to
myself, "Self, maybe you should toss a couple of End Caps in the plumbing
drawer just in case you need to cap a pipe in an emergency."

So, here it is, 9 PM on a Friday night and I walked down into the basement
to find that the pipe from the water heater has developed a pin hole leak.

So, off with the main, a couple of quick cuts to remove the bad section,
push on 2 caps and back on with the main.

No showers tomorrow morning, but at least we have water tonight. Tomorrow,
I can take my time replacing the bad section.

...and that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop.

What do you think caused the pinhole leak?

"Although pinhole leaks could happen in any copper pipe or tube within a house, the Washington Suburban Sanitary Commission (WSSC) reported that the majority of pinhole leaks that their customers had reported were in cold-water, horizontal copper piping. Most of the leaks were in older homes, and 80 percent of the reports involved homes built prior to 1970."

Source http://www.repairmyleak.com/about/failure-copper.htm

On Saturday, March 19, 2016 at 5:00:04 PM UTC-4, bob_villain wrote:
On Friday, March 18, 2016 at 10:47:44 PM UTC-5, Vic Smith wrote:
On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 18:34:12 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

A long time ago I needed to cap a pipe, so I decided to try a SharkBite End
Cap just to see what they were like. It worked so well that I said to
myself, "Self, maybe you should toss a couple of End Caps in the plumbing
drawer just in case you need to cap a pipe in an emergency."

So, here it is, 9 PM on a Friday night and I walked down into the basement
to find that the pipe from the water heater has developed a pin hole leak.

So, off with the main, a couple of quick cuts to remove the bad section,
push on 2 caps and back on with the main.

No showers tomorrow morning, but at least we have water tonight. Tomorrow,
I can take my time replacing the bad section.

...and that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop.

What do you think caused the pinhole leak?

"Although pinhole leaks could happen in any copper pipe or tube within a house, the Washington Suburban Sanitary Commission (WSSC) reported that the majority of pinhole leaks that their customers had reported were in cold-water, horizontal copper piping. Most of the leaks were in older homes, and 80 percent of the reports involved homes built prior to 1970."

Source http://www.repairmyleak.com/about/failure-copper.htm

On Saturday, March 19, 2016 at 5:00:04 PM UTC-4, bob_villain wrote:
On Friday, March 18, 2016 at 10:47:44 PM UTC-5, Vic Smith wrote:
On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 18:34:12 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

A long time ago I needed to cap a pipe, so I decided to try a SharkBite End
Cap just to see what they were like. It worked so well that I said to
myself, "Self, maybe you should toss a couple of End Caps in the plumbing
drawer just in case you need to cap a pipe in an emergency."

So, here it is, 9 PM on a Friday night and I walked down into the basement
to find that the pipe from the water heater has developed a pin hole leak.

So, off with the main, a couple of quick cuts to remove the bad section,
push on 2 caps and back on with the main.

No showers tomorrow morning, but at least we have water tonight. Tomorrow,
I can take my time replacing the bad section.

...and that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop.

What do you think caused the pinhole leak?

"Although pinhole leaks could happen in any copper pipe or tube within a house, the Washington Suburban Sanitary Commission (WSSC) reported that the majority of pinhole leaks that their customers had reported were in cold-water,

Mine was in a hot water pipe.

horizontal copper piping.

Mine was in a vertical pipe.

Most of the leaks were in older homes, and 80 percent of the reports involved homes built prior to 1970."

Mine was built in 1956.

=NOT(2 out of 3)

On Saturday, March 19, 2016 at 5:47:51 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Saturday, March 19, 2016 at 5:00:04 PM UTC-4, bob_villain wrote:

"Although pinhole leaks could happen in any copper pipe or tube within a house, the Washington Suburban Sanitary Commission (WSSC) reported that the majority of pinhole leaks that their customers had reported were in cold-water,

Mine was in a hot water pipe.

horizontal copper piping.

Mine was in a vertical pipe.

Most of the leaks were in older homes, and 80 percent of the reports involved homes built prior to 1970."

Mine was built in 1956.

=NOT(2 out of 3)

Don't shoot the messenger, there is other good information on that site!

On Sat, 19 Mar 2016 13:59:58 -0700 (PDT), bob_villain
wrote:

On Friday, March 18, 2016 at 10:47:44 PM UTC-5, Vic Smith wrote:
On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 18:34:12 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

A long time ago I needed to cap a pipe, so I decided to try a SharkBite End
Cap just to see what they were like. It worked so well that I said to
myself, "Self, maybe you should toss a couple of End Caps in the plumbing
drawer just in case you need to cap a pipe in an emergency."

So, here it is, 9 PM on a Friday night and I walked down into the basement
to find that the pipe from the water heater has developed a pin hole leak.

So, off with the main, a couple of quick cuts to remove the bad section,
push on 2 caps and back on with the main.

No showers tomorrow morning, but at least we have water tonight. Tomorrow,
I can take my time replacing the bad section.

...and that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop.

What do you think caused the pinhole leak?

"Although pinhole leaks could happen in any copper pipe or tube within a house, the Washington Suburban Sanitary Commission (WSSC) reported that the majority of pinhole leaks that their customers had reported were in cold-water, horizontal copper piping. Most of the leaks were in older homes, and 80 percent of the reports involved homes built prior to 1970."

Source http://www.repairmyleak.com/about/failure-copper.htm
Most common in type M copper too. (the cheap stuff with the red
print) Less common in Type L (blue print) and almost unheard of in
Type K (green print)

L ang K are available soft as well, while M is hard only.
Hard L and K can be annealed if a small bend is required.

M is only .028 thick. L is .040 and K is .049

If buying a house anf it is plumbed with M (red print) pipe, figure on
doing some major replumbing before too long. If you don't have to, you
come out ahead. If you don't plan for it and do have to, you loose
pretty big-time.

On Saturday, March 19, 2016 at 9:57:41 PM UTC-4, bob_villain wrote:
On Saturday, March 19, 2016 at 5:47:51 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Saturday, March 19, 2016 at 5:00:04 PM UTC-4, bob_villain wrote:

"Although pinhole leaks could happen in any copper pipe or tube within a house, the Washington Suburban Sanitary Commission (WSSC) reported that the majority of pinhole leaks that their customers had reported were in cold-water,

Mine was in a hot water pipe.

horizontal copper piping.

Mine was in a vertical pipe.

Most of the leaks were in older homes, and 80 percent of the reports involved homes built prior to 1970."

Mine was built in 1956.

=NOT(2 out of 3)

Don't shoot the messenger, there is other good information on that site!

Not shooting, just sayin'

;-)

its cheap, works awesome, no one will steal it, it never corrodes.

Code here is galvanized or copper. PEX not allowed.

are you certain that still code? PEX is actually less likely to leak since it can all be home runs from a manifold to fixture. no fittings buried in walls etc

On Sat, 19 Mar 2016 20:46:51 -0700 (PDT), bob haller
wrote:


its cheap, works awesome, no one will steal it, it never corrodes.

Code here is galvanized or copper. PEX not allowed.

are you certain that still code? PEX is actually less likely to leak since it can all be home runs from a manifold to fixture. no fittings buried in walls etc

Yes, I've checked. http://forms.mortongroveil.org/code/

890 appendix A, table A. Delete "Approved Building Drainage/Vent
Pipe", "Approved Materials For Building Sewer", "Approved Material For
Water Service Pipe", and "Approved Materials For Water Distribution
Pipe" and replace with:



Approved Materials For Water Service Pipe

Material Standard
Ductile iron water pipe AWWA C151; AWWA C115
Copper or copper alloy pipe ASTM B42; ASTM B302
Copper or copper alloy tubing (type K only) ASTM B75; ASTM B88;
ASTM B251

Approved Materials For Water Distribution Pipe

Material Standard
Copper or copper alloy pipe ASTM B42; ASTM B30
Copper or copper alloy tubing (type K or L) ASTM B75; ASTM B88;
ASTM B251
Galvanized steel pipe ASTM A53

On 3/19/2016 9:26 PM, wrote:

I would'a put a piece of rubber and hose clamp on it and called it
good.

On 03/20/2016 03:12 AM, Vic Smith wrote:
Yes, I've checked.http://forms.mortongroveil.org/code/

Does union influence have anything to do with Morton Grove plumbing code?

On Sun, 20 Mar 2016 07:45:12 -0600, marcus
wrote:

On 03/20/2016 03:12 AM, Vic Smith wrote:
Yes, I've checked.http://forms.mortongroveil.org/code/

Does union influence have anything to do with Morton Grove plumbing code?

It's probably the trades in general that run the show. Plenty of
non-union plumbers and electricians here.
Chicago code is common in the counties around Chicago.

On Sat, 19 Mar 2016 12:40:27 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

Full Link:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psicmvmj9x.jpg

Very nice job, Derby.

On Sunday, March 20, 2016 at 2:26:51 PM UTC-4, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 19 Mar 2016 12:40:27 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

Full Link:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psicmvmj9x.jpg

Very nice job, Derby.

Thanks. I just hope the electrical solder holds. It was the only kind I had.

Kidding! ;-)

On 3/19/2016 2:40 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Saturday, March 19, 2016 at 12:58:44 AM UTC-4, Vic Smith wrote:
On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 21:30:16 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:



In the image linked to below, you can see the curve in the pipe as it
comes through the sub floor.

I think the original installation was under tension, although things didn't
really "spring" when I cut out the leaking section last night. I wonder if
the tension had relaxed because the original 4" section that came out of
the bottom of the T had weakened over time and eventually failed. Just a
guess.

What I was able to do was use two 45's instead of a single 90. You can
see one coming out of the bottom of the T and another about 3" down. I also
put 1/4" spacers between the bottom of the joists and the horizontal pipe
that comes out of the middle of the T. This set up allowed everything to
go back together in a "relaxed" manner.

The new section starts with the T and ends with the repair coupling near
the electrical wire. The leak was in that short pipe between the two
45's. Originally that pipe had a 90 at the bottom and went directly into
the bottom of the T.

http://tinyurl.com/NotLeakingYet

Full Link:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psicmvmj9x.jpg

That's a really neat and clean job. Well done!

question forr the poster in morton grove where PEX isnt approved.

do the big box stores like home depot and lowes sell it anyway??

On Sun, 20 Mar 2016 18:38:59 -0700 (PDT), bob haller
wrote:

question forr the poster in morton grove where PEX isnt approved.

do the big box stores like home depot and lowes sell it anyway??

Sure do.

On Monday, March 21, 2016 at 3:26:06 AM UTC-4, Vic Smith wrote:
On Sun, 20 Mar 2016 18:38:59 -0700 (PDT), bob haller
wrote:

question forr the poster in morton grove where PEX isnt approved.

do the big box stores like home depot and lowes sell it anyway??

Sure do.

When I looked at your link it appeared that your village recently adopted the overall
Illinois plumbing code. Maybe I read it wrong, but Section 890 of the state code appears
to allow PEX. Are you saying that your village adopted the state code and then
amended it to be more restrictive PEX?

If so, do you know why?

On 3/20/2016 9:38 PM, bob haller wrote:
question forr the poster in morton grove where PEX isnt approved.

do the big box stores like home depot and lowes sell it anyway??



They sell plumbing and electrical parts and material that, by code, you
need to have a permit to install. If you had to show your permit or
license to buy the stuff they would go out of business.

Besides, the people in Morton Grove that buy pex do so just to make
spray things for their pool, they would never consider doing a job not
to code.

On Mon, 21 Mar 2016 10:48:03 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 3/20/2016 9:38 PM, bob haller wrote:
question forr the poster in morton grove where PEX isnt approved.

do the big box stores like home depot and lowes sell it anyway??



They sell plumbing and electrical parts and material that, by code, you
need to have a permit to install. If you had to show your permit or
license to buy the stuff they would go out of business.

Besides, the people in Morton Grove that buy pex do so just to make
spray things for their pool, they would never consider doing a job not
to code.
Ha Ha Ha

On Monday, March 21, 2016 at 10:47:41 AM UTC-4, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 3/20/2016 9:38 PM, bob haller wrote:
question forr the poster in morton grove where PEX isnt approved.

do the big box stores like home depot and lowes sell it anyway??



They sell plumbing and electrical parts and material that, by code, you
need to have a permit to install. If you had to show your permit or
license to buy the stuff they would go out of business.

Besides, the people in Morton Grove that buy pex do so just to make
spray things for their pool, they would never consider doing a job not
to code.

No, that's not it. The vast majority of plumbers licensed to work in
Illinois live in the village of Morton Grove. Every inch of PEX that
they buy locally is carried out of the village and used on jobs in
villages, towns and cities where the planning boards actually have a
clue. I've heard that they are escorted out of town by the code police
after every purchase.

Vic Smith posted for all of us...



On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 21:30:16 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Friday, March 18, 2016 at 11:47:44 PM UTC-4, Vic Smith wrote:
On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 18:34:12 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

A long time ago I needed to cap a pipe, so I decided to try a SharkBite End
Cap just to see what they were like. It worked so well that I said to
myself, "Self, maybe you should toss a couple of End Caps in the plumbing
drawer just in case you need to cap a pipe in an emergency."

So, here it is, 9 PM on a Friday night and I walked down into the basement
to find that the pipe from the water heater has developed a pin hole leak.

So, off with the main, a couple of quick cuts to remove the bad section,
push on 2 caps and back on with the main.

No showers tomorrow morning, but at least we have water tonight. Tomorrow,
I can take my time replacing the bad section.

...and that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop.

What do you think caused the pinhole leak?

I don't know. The pinhole was on a short (4") section of pipe between
a T and a 90. I cut the pipe exactly at the pin hole, leaving about
1" sticking out the T. (That left me enough room to put the cap on. I'll
need to replace the T and the 90 tomorrow)

Anyway, after I cut the pipe I noticed that the pin hole had begun to
turn into a slit, I assume from the pressure of the cutter. That tells
me the leak was about to get much bigger.

As I said, I cut the pipe exactly at the pin hole and this is what I found
inside the pipe right at the cut. (Ignore the outside of the pipe. I had
cleaned the outside before cutting it.)

http://tinyurl.com/CutPipe

Full Link:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psl6dtvfep.jpg

I can't tell if the "scale" that you see is buildup or what's left behind
from disintegrating copper. It extends down about 1/2" but it is all around
the inside of the pipe at the cut, not just on the side where the hole was.

I have a plumbing supply house that I like, so I may take the piece over
there and have them tell me what's going on. In any case, the rest of that
short piece of pipe will be gone first thing in the morning.

Let us know what they say. I'm curious. I'll be repiping my
galvanized soon with copper. Because I don't have my threading
tools anymore, copper pipe is cheaper, and it might make a difference
in the house's resale value.
The piping is 58 years old. No leaks, but the flow is getting
restricted enough that it's time to do it.


Have you thought about PEX?

--
Tekkie

On Monday, March 21, 2016 at 3:56:04 PM UTC-4, Tekkie® wrote:
Vic Smith posted for all of us...



On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 21:30:16 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Friday, March 18, 2016 at 11:47:44 PM UTC-4, Vic Smith wrote:
On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 18:34:12 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

A long time ago I needed to cap a pipe, so I decided to try a SharkBite End
Cap just to see what they were like. It worked so well that I said to
myself, "Self, maybe you should toss a couple of End Caps in the plumbing
drawer just in case you need to cap a pipe in an emergency."

So, here it is, 9 PM on a Friday night and I walked down into the basement
to find that the pipe from the water heater has developed a pin hole leak.

So, off with the main, a couple of quick cuts to remove the bad section,
push on 2 caps and back on with the main.

No showers tomorrow morning, but at least we have water tonight. Tomorrow,
I can take my time replacing the bad section.

...and that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop.

What do you think caused the pinhole leak?

I don't know. The pinhole was on a short (4") section of pipe between
a T and a 90. I cut the pipe exactly at the pin hole, leaving about
1" sticking out the T. (That left me enough room to put the cap on. I'll
need to replace the T and the 90 tomorrow)

Anyway, after I cut the pipe I noticed that the pin hole had begun to
turn into a slit, I assume from the pressure of the cutter. That tells
me the leak was about to get much bigger.

As I said, I cut the pipe exactly at the pin hole and this is what I found
inside the pipe right at the cut. (Ignore the outside of the pipe. I had
cleaned the outside before cutting it.)

http://tinyurl.com/CutPipe

Full Link:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psl6dtvfep.jpg

I can't tell if the "scale" that you see is buildup or what's left behind
from disintegrating copper. It extends down about 1/2" but it is all around
the inside of the pipe at the cut, not just on the side where the hole was.

I have a plumbing supply house that I like, so I may take the piece over
there and have them tell me what's going on. In any case, the rest of that
short piece of pipe will be gone first thing in the morning.

Let us know what they say. I'm curious. I'll be repiping my
galvanized soon with copper. Because I don't have my threading
tools anymore, copper pipe is cheaper, and it might make a difference
in the house's resale value.
The piping is 58 years old. No leaks, but the flow is getting
restricted enough that it's time to do it.


Have you thought about PEX?


Have you thought about reading the thread before responding?

On Mon, 21 Mar 2016 04:17:12 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Monday, March 21, 2016 at 3:26:06 AM UTC-4, Vic Smith wrote:
On Sun, 20 Mar 2016 18:38:59 -0700 (PDT), bob haller
wrote:

question forr the poster in morton grove where PEX isnt approved.

do the big box stores like home depot and lowes sell it anyway??

Sure do.

When I looked at your link it appeared that your village recently adopted the overall
Illinois plumbing code. Maybe I read it wrong, but Section 890 of the state code appears
to allow PEX. Are you saying that your village adopted the state code and then
amended it to be more restrictive PEX?


Yes. I copied and pasted the relevant sections, which said "delete"
and "replace with."

If so, do you know why?

My assumption is they are protecting the building trades.
The Chicago way.

On Mon, 21 Mar 2016 13:01:58 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Monday, March 21, 2016 at 3:56:04 PM UTC-4, Tekkie® wrote:
Vic Smith posted for all of us...



On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 21:30:16 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Friday, March 18, 2016 at 11:47:44 PM UTC-4, Vic Smith wrote:
On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 18:34:12 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

A long time ago I needed to cap a pipe, so I decided to try a SharkBite End
Cap just to see what they were like. It worked so well that I said to
myself, "Self, maybe you should toss a couple of End Caps in the plumbing
drawer just in case you need to cap a pipe in an emergency."

So, here it is, 9 PM on a Friday night and I walked down into the basement
to find that the pipe from the water heater has developed a pin hole leak.

So, off with the main, a couple of quick cuts to remove the bad section,
push on 2 caps and back on with the main.

No showers tomorrow morning, but at least we have water tonight. Tomorrow,
I can take my time replacing the bad section.

...and that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop.

What do you think caused the pinhole leak?

I don't know. The pinhole was on a short (4") section of pipe between
a T and a 90. I cut the pipe exactly at the pin hole, leaving about
1" sticking out the T. (That left me enough room to put the cap on. I'll
need to replace the T and the 90 tomorrow)

Anyway, after I cut the pipe I noticed that the pin hole had begun to
turn into a slit, I assume from the pressure of the cutter. That tells
me the leak was about to get much bigger.

As I said, I cut the pipe exactly at the pin hole and this is what I found
inside the pipe right at the cut. (Ignore the outside of the pipe. I had
cleaned the outside before cutting it.)

http://tinyurl.com/CutPipe

Full Link:

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psl6dtvfep.jpg

I can't tell if the "scale" that you see is buildup or what's left behind
from disintegrating copper. It extends down about 1/2" but it is all around
the inside of the pipe at the cut, not just on the side where the hole was.

I have a plumbing supply house that I like, so I may take the piece over
there and have them tell me what's going on. In any case, the rest of that
short piece of pipe will be gone first thing in the morning.

Let us know what they say. I'm curious. I'll be repiping my
galvanized soon with copper. Because I don't have my threading
tools anymore, copper pipe is cheaper, and it might make a difference
in the house's resale value.
The piping is 58 years old. No leaks, but the flow is getting
restricted enough that it's time to do it.


Have you thought about PEX?


Have you thought about reading the thread before responding?
Of course not. He'd never think of that.

On Mon, 21 Mar 2016 13:01:58 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:


Have you thought about PEX?


Have you thought about reading the thread before responding?

PEX is for people who are too lazy to do REAL Plumbing. It's about the
same as running a garden hose to your sink, toilet, or whatever else. It
may seem durable and strong, but for how long? It's plastic, and like
all plastics, it has a limited life span. Some day in the future you'll
come home and find your house flooded because this plastic crap broke.

REAL PLUMBING is made from metal, and is a PIPE, not a HOSE!

But we live in a day and age when people worship plastics and dont want
to do any REAL work, or pay for REAL plumbing.

Pex is fine for a temporary means to get water from point A to point B,
but it's NOT a permanent plumbing. I might consider it for an outdoor
sprinkler system. but not for "piping" in my home.

---

As far as the original topic of this thread, I recall reading somewhere
in this (long) thread that there was stress on these copper pipes due to
poor alignment of the pipes. That likely was part, or all of the cause
this short piece of pipe failed. The ideal solution would be to install
one of those flexible copper (or stainless steel) pipes made for water
heaters. That way there's no stress on the pipes.

On Mon, 21 Mar 2016 16:50:27 -0500, wrote:

PEX is for people who are too lazy to do REAL Plumbing.

PEX is for people smarter than you.

On 3/21/2016 5:50 PM, wrote:

PEX is for people who are too lazy to do REAL Plumbing. It's about the
same as running a garden hose to your sink, toilet, or whatever else. It
may seem durable and strong, but for how long? It's plastic, and like
all plastics, it has a limited life span. Some day in the future you'll
come home and find your house flooded because this plastic crap broke.

REAL PLUMBING is made from metal, and is a PIPE, not a HOSE!


Oh man, that is funny. The start of this thread was about a copper tube
leaking. Yeah, metal pipe is perfect! PEX has been in use for about 60
years now.

On Mon, 21 Mar 2016 18:37:10 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 3/21/2016 5:50 PM, wrote:

PEX is for people who are too lazy to do REAL Plumbing. It's about the
same as running a garden hose to your sink, toilet, or whatever else. It
may seem durable and strong, but for how long? It's plastic, and like
all plastics, it has a limited life span. Some day in the future you'll
come home and find your house flooded because this plastic crap broke.

REAL PLUMBING is made from metal, and is a PIPE, not a HOSE!


Oh man, that is funny. The start of this thread was about a copper tube
leaking. Yeah, metal pipe is perfect! PEX has been in use for about 60
years now.

Any pipe can develop a leak, and the copper was a pin hole, not a
gushing fully broken pipe. If a PEX connector comes apart, it will
result in a flood, not a small puddle.

PEX may have been developed 60 years ago, but it was not allowed in
America until recently, and is still not allowed by code in some parts
of the country, and for GOOD REASON! I dont know if it's allowed in my
part of the country, and I really dont care, but if I had any say in
local codes, I would vote against it. (But I dont have any say).
No matter how you look at it, it's a HOSE, not REAL PLUMBING!

I do know it will never be used in any home I live in!

On Mon, 21 Mar 2016 18:37:10 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 3/21/2016 5:50 PM, wrote:

PEX is for people who are too lazy to do REAL Plumbing. It's about the
same as running a garden hose to your sink, toilet, or whatever else. It
may seem durable and strong, but for how long? It's plastic, and like
all plastics, it has a limited life span. Some day in the future you'll
come home and find your house flooded because this plastic crap broke.

REAL PLUMBING is made from metal, and is a PIPE, not a HOSE!


Oh man, that is funny. The start of this thread was about a copper tube
leaking. Yeah, metal pipe is perfect! PEX has been in use for about 60
years now.

My entire house plumbing pipe is PEX ~20 years old. Never a single
leak, even after I extended two lines for a bath renovation. Heck, I
don't even have shut off valves at any water fixture that can go bad.

You never see plumbers in my `hood.

On Mon, 21 Mar 2016 18:24:27 -0500, wrote:

On Mon, 21 Mar 2016 18:37:10 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 3/21/2016 5:50 PM, wrote:

PEX is for people who are too lazy to do REAL Plumbing. It's about the
same as running a garden hose to your sink, toilet, or whatever else. It
may seem durable and strong, but for how long? It's plastic, and like
all plastics, it has a limited life span. Some day in the future you'll
come home and find your house flooded because this plastic crap broke.

REAL PLUMBING is made from metal, and is a PIPE, not a HOSE!


Oh man, that is funny. The start of this thread was about a copper tube
leaking. Yeah, metal pipe is perfect! PEX has been in use for about 60
years now.

Any pipe can develop a leak, and the copper was a pin hole, not a
gushing fully broken pipe. If a PEX connector comes apart, it will
result in a flood, not a small puddle.

PEX may have been developed 60 years ago, but it was not allowed in
America until recently, and is still not allowed by code in some parts
of the country, and for GOOD REASON! I dont know if it's allowed in my
part of the country, and I really dont care, but if I had any say in
local codes, I would vote against it. (But I dont have any say).
No matter how you look at it, it's a HOSE, not REAL PLUMBING!

I do know it will never be used in any home I live in!


What you really mean is you have no clue as to how PEX is connected.
Go spend your money on copper or galvanized pipe. Get back to me.