| Page 1 of 2 | 1 | 2 |
|
|
...And that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop
A long time ago I needed to cap a pipe, so I decided to try a SharkBite End
Cap just to see what they were like. It worked so well that I said to myself, "Self, maybe you should toss a couple of End Caps in the plumbing drawer just in case you need to cap a pipe in an emergency." So, here it is, 9 PM on a Friday night and I walked down into the basement to find that the pipe from the water heater has developed a pin hole leak. So, off with the main, a couple of quick cuts to remove the bad section, push on 2 caps and back on with the main. No showers tomorrow morning, but at least we have water tonight. Tomorrow, I can take my time replacing the bad section. ....and that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop. |
...And that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop
On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 18:34:12 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote: A long time ago I needed to cap a pipe, so I decided to try a SharkBite End Cap just to see what they were like. It worked so well that I said to myself, "Self, maybe you should toss a couple of End Caps in the plumbing drawer just in case you need to cap a pipe in an emergency." So, here it is, 9 PM on a Friday night and I walked down into the basement to find that the pipe from the water heater has developed a pin hole leak. So, off with the main, a couple of quick cuts to remove the bad section, push on 2 caps and back on with the main. No showers tomorrow morning, but at least we have water tonight. Tomorrow, I can take my time replacing the bad section. ...and that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop. What do you think caused the pinhole leak? |
...And that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop
On Friday, March 18, 2016 at 11:47:44 PM UTC-4, Vic Smith wrote:
On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 18:34:12 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: A long time ago I needed to cap a pipe, so I decided to try a SharkBite End Cap just to see what they were like. It worked so well that I said to myself, "Self, maybe you should toss a couple of End Caps in the plumbing drawer just in case you need to cap a pipe in an emergency." So, here it is, 9 PM on a Friday night and I walked down into the basement to find that the pipe from the water heater has developed a pin hole leak. So, off with the main, a couple of quick cuts to remove the bad section, push on 2 caps and back on with the main. No showers tomorrow morning, but at least we have water tonight. Tomorrow, I can take my time replacing the bad section. ...and that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop. What do you think caused the pinhole leak? I don't know. The pinhole was on a short (4") section of pipe between a T and a 90. I cut the pipe exactly at the pin hole, leaving about 1" sticking out the T. (That left me enough room to put the cap on. I'll need to replace the T and the 90 tomorrow) Anyway, after I cut the pipe I noticed that the pin hole had begun to turn into a slit, I assume from the pressure of the cutter. That tells me the leak was about to get much bigger. As I said, I cut the pipe exactly at the pin hole and this is what I found inside the pipe right at the cut. (Ignore the outside of the pipe. I had cleaned the outside before cutting it.) http://tinyurl.com/CutPipe Full Link: http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psl6dtvfep.jpg I can't tell if the "scale" that you see is buildup or what's left behind from disintegrating copper. It extends down about 1/2" but it is all around the inside of the pipe at the cut, not just on the side where the hole was. I have a plumbing supply house that I like, so I may take the piece over there and have them tell me what's going on. In any case, the rest of that short piece of pipe will be gone first thing in the morning. |
...And that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop
On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 21:30:16 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote: On Friday, March 18, 2016 at 11:47:44 PM UTC-4, Vic Smith wrote: On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 18:34:12 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: A long time ago I needed to cap a pipe, so I decided to try a SharkBite End Cap just to see what they were like. It worked so well that I said to myself, "Self, maybe you should toss a couple of End Caps in the plumbing drawer just in case you need to cap a pipe in an emergency." So, here it is, 9 PM on a Friday night and I walked down into the basement to find that the pipe from the water heater has developed a pin hole leak. So, off with the main, a couple of quick cuts to remove the bad section, push on 2 caps and back on with the main. No showers tomorrow morning, but at least we have water tonight. Tomorrow, I can take my time replacing the bad section. ...and that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop. What do you think caused the pinhole leak? I don't know. The pinhole was on a short (4") section of pipe between a T and a 90. I cut the pipe exactly at the pin hole, leaving about 1" sticking out the T. (That left me enough room to put the cap on. I'll need to replace the T and the 90 tomorrow) Anyway, after I cut the pipe I noticed that the pin hole had begun to turn into a slit, I assume from the pressure of the cutter. That tells me the leak was about to get much bigger. As I said, I cut the pipe exactly at the pin hole and this is what I found inside the pipe right at the cut. (Ignore the outside of the pipe. I had cleaned the outside before cutting it.) http://tinyurl.com/CutPipe Full Link: http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psl6dtvfep.jpg I can't tell if the "scale" that you see is buildup or what's left behind from disintegrating copper. It extends down about 1/2" but it is all around the inside of the pipe at the cut, not just on the side where the hole was. I have a plumbing supply house that I like, so I may take the piece over there and have them tell me what's going on. In any case, the rest of that short piece of pipe will be gone first thing in the morning. Let us know what they say. I'm curious. I'll be repiping my galvanized soon with copper. Because I don't have my threading tools anymore, copper pipe is cheaper, and it might make a difference in the house's resale value. The piping is 58 years old. No leaks, but the flow is getting restricted enough that it's time to do it. |
...And that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop
On Saturday, March 19, 2016 at 12:58:44 AM UTC-4, Vic Smith wrote:
On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 21:30:16 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: On Friday, March 18, 2016 at 11:47:44 PM UTC-4, Vic Smith wrote: On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 18:34:12 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: A long time ago I needed to cap a pipe, so I decided to try a SharkBite End Cap just to see what they were like. It worked so well that I said to myself, "Self, maybe you should toss a couple of End Caps in the plumbing drawer just in case you need to cap a pipe in an emergency." So, here it is, 9 PM on a Friday night and I walked down into the basement to find that the pipe from the water heater has developed a pin hole leak. So, off with the main, a couple of quick cuts to remove the bad section, push on 2 caps and back on with the main. No showers tomorrow morning, but at least we have water tonight. Tomorrow, I can take my time replacing the bad section. ...and that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop. What do you think caused the pinhole leak? I don't know. The pinhole was on a short (4") section of pipe between a T and a 90. I cut the pipe exactly at the pin hole, leaving about 1" sticking out the T. (That left me enough room to put the cap on. I'll need to replace the T and the 90 tomorrow) Anyway, after I cut the pipe I noticed that the pin hole had begun to turn into a slit, I assume from the pressure of the cutter. That tells me the leak was about to get much bigger. As I said, I cut the pipe exactly at the pin hole and this is what I found inside the pipe right at the cut. (Ignore the outside of the pipe. I had cleaned the outside before cutting it.) http://tinyurl.com/CutPipe Full Link: http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psl6dtvfep.jpg I can't tell if the "scale" that you see is buildup or what's left behind from disintegrating copper. It extends down about 1/2" but it is all around the inside of the pipe at the cut, not just on the side where the hole was. I have a plumbing supply house that I like, so I may take the piece over there and have them tell me what's going on. In any case, the rest of that short piece of pipe will be gone first thing in the morning. Let us know what they say. I'm curious. I'll be repiping my galvanized soon with copper. Because I don't have my threading tools anymore, copper pipe is cheaper, and it might make a difference in the house's resale value. The piping is 58 years old. No leaks, but the flow is getting restricted enough that it's time to do it. save yourself tons of work and gobs of money and use PEX! its cheap, works awesome, no one will steal it, it never corrodes. |
...And that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop
On Sat, 19 Mar 2016 04:24:44 -0700 (PDT), bob haller
wrote: On Saturday, March 19, 2016 at 12:58:44 AM UTC-4, Vic Smith wrote: The piping is 58 years old. No leaks, but the flow is getting restricted enough that it's time to do it. save yourself tons of work and gobs of money and use PEX! its cheap, works awesome, no one will steal it, it never corrodes. Code here is galvanized or copper. PEX not allowed. |
...And that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop
On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 21:30:16 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote: As I said, I cut the pipe exactly at the pin hole and this is what I found inside the pipe right at the cut. (Ignore the outside of the pipe. I had cleaned the outside before cutting it.) http://tinyurl.com/CutPipe Full Link: http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psl6dtvfep.jpg I can't tell if the "scale" that you see is buildup or what's left behind from disintegrating copper. It extends down about 1/2" but it is all around the inside of the pipe at the cut, not just on the side where the hole was. I have a plumbing supply house that I like, so I may take the piece over there and have them tell me what's going on. In any case, the rest of that short piece of pipe will be gone first thing in the morning. I'd also get my water tested. In some parts of the country it can corrode copper. |
...And that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop
On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 23:58:45 -0500, Vic Smith
wrote: Let us know what they say. I'm curious. I'll be repiping my galvanized soon with copper. Because I don't have my threading tools anymore, copper pipe is cheaper, and it might make a difference in the house's resale value. The piping is 58 years old. No leaks, but the flow is getting restricted enough that it's time to do it. I'd also consider PEX. Easy to work with. Personally, I'd not buy a house with galvanized that was slowing down so it is a good thing to replace it if you are eventually selling. |
...And that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop
On 3/19/2016 7:24 AM, bob haller wrote:
On Saturday, March 19, 2016 at 12:58:44 AM UTC-4, Vic Smith wrote: Let us know what they say. I'm curious. I'll be repiping my galvanized soon with copper. Because I don't have my threading tools anymore, copper pipe is cheaper, and it might make a difference in the house's resale value. The piping is 58 years old. No leaks, but the flow is getting restricted enough that it's time to do it. save yourself tons of work and gobs of money and use PEX! its cheap, works awesome, no one will steal it, it never corrodes. Said it better than I could have. I did hear of someone in the city who had his copper pipes stolen out of the house one night. -- .. Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus .. www.lds.org .. .. |
...And that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop
On Saturday, March 19, 2016 at 12:58:44 AM UTC-4, Vic Smith wrote:
On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 21:30:16 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: On Friday, March 18, 2016 at 11:47:44 PM UTC-4, Vic Smith wrote: On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 18:34:12 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: A long time ago I needed to cap a pipe, so I decided to try a SharkBite End Cap just to see what they were like. It worked so well that I said to myself, "Self, maybe you should toss a couple of End Caps in the plumbing drawer just in case you need to cap a pipe in an emergency." So, here it is, 9 PM on a Friday night and I walked down into the basement to find that the pipe from the water heater has developed a pin hole leak. So, off with the main, a couple of quick cuts to remove the bad section, push on 2 caps and back on with the main. No showers tomorrow morning, but at least we have water tonight. Tomorrow, I can take my time replacing the bad section. ...and that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop. What do you think caused the pinhole leak? I don't know. The pinhole was on a short (4") section of pipe between a T and a 90. I cut the pipe exactly at the pin hole, leaving about 1" sticking out the T. (That left me enough room to put the cap on. I'll need to replace the T and the 90 tomorrow) Anyway, after I cut the pipe I noticed that the pin hole had begun to turn into a slit, I assume from the pressure of the cutter. That tells me the leak was about to get much bigger. As I said, I cut the pipe exactly at the pin hole and this is what I found inside the pipe right at the cut. (Ignore the outside of the pipe. I had cleaned the outside before cutting it.) http://tinyurl.com/CutPipe Full Link: http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psl6dtvfep.jpg I can't tell if the "scale" that you see is buildup or what's left behind from disintegrating copper. It extends down about 1/2" but it is all around the inside of the pipe at the cut, not just on the side where the hole was. I have a plumbing supply house that I like, so I may take the piece over there and have them tell me what's going on. In any case, the rest of that short piece of pipe will be gone first thing in the morning. Let us know what they say. I'm curious. I'll be repiping my galvanized soon with copper. Because I don't have my threading tools anymore, copper pipe is cheaper, and it might make a difference in the house's resale value. The piping is 58 years old. No leaks, but the flow is getting restricted enough that it's time to do it. I finished sweating in the new section. I noticed that when I tried to use the same type fittings as the originals - a T and a 90, the horizontal pipe from the WH would not line up with the 90. One of the issues (I think) is that the pipe that goes to the upstairs bathroom from the top of the T is not a straight run. They apparently used a bender to put some curves in the pipe. Therefore the pipe coming out of the bottom of the T was not at a right angle to horizontal pipe to the water heater, even though they had used a 90 to connect those 2 pipes. In the image linked to below, you can see the curve in the pipe as it comes through the sub floor. I think the original installation was under tension, although things didn't really "spring" when I cut out the leaking section last night. I wonder if the tension had relaxed because the original 4" section that came out of the bottom of the T had weakened over time and eventually failed. Just a guess. What I was able to do was use two 45's instead of a single 90. You can see one coming out of the bottom of the T and another about 3" down. I also put 1/4" spacers between the bottom of the joists and the horizontal pipe that comes out of the middle of the T. This set up allowed everything to go back together in a "relaxed" manner. The new section starts with the T and ends with the repair coupling near the electrical wire. The leak was in that short pipe between the two 45's. Originally that pipe had a 90 at the bottom and went directly into the bottom of the T. http://tinyurl.com/NotLeakingYet Full Link: http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psicmvmj9x.jpg |
...And that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop
On Friday, March 18, 2016 at 10:47:44 PM UTC-5, Vic Smith wrote:
On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 18:34:12 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: A long time ago I needed to cap a pipe, so I decided to try a SharkBite End Cap just to see what they were like. It worked so well that I said to myself, "Self, maybe you should toss a couple of End Caps in the plumbing drawer just in case you need to cap a pipe in an emergency." So, here it is, 9 PM on a Friday night and I walked down into the basement to find that the pipe from the water heater has developed a pin hole leak. So, off with the main, a couple of quick cuts to remove the bad section, push on 2 caps and back on with the main. No showers tomorrow morning, but at least we have water tonight. Tomorrow, I can take my time replacing the bad section. ...and that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop. What do you think caused the pinhole leak? "Although pinhole leaks could happen in any copper pipe or tube within a house, the Washington Suburban Sanitary Commission (WSSC) reported that the majority of pinhole leaks that their customers had reported were in cold-water, horizontal copper piping. Most of the leaks were in older homes, and 80 percent of the reports involved homes built prior to 1970." Source http://www.repairmyleak.com/about/failure-copper.htm |
...And that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop
On Saturday, March 19, 2016 at 5:00:04 PM UTC-4, bob_villain wrote:
On Friday, March 18, 2016 at 10:47:44 PM UTC-5, Vic Smith wrote: On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 18:34:12 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: A long time ago I needed to cap a pipe, so I decided to try a SharkBite End Cap just to see what they were like. It worked so well that I said to myself, "Self, maybe you should toss a couple of End Caps in the plumbing drawer just in case you need to cap a pipe in an emergency." So, here it is, 9 PM on a Friday night and I walked down into the basement to find that the pipe from the water heater has developed a pin hole leak. So, off with the main, a couple of quick cuts to remove the bad section, push on 2 caps and back on with the main. No showers tomorrow morning, but at least we have water tonight. Tomorrow, I can take my time replacing the bad section. ...and that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop. What do you think caused the pinhole leak? "Although pinhole leaks could happen in any copper pipe or tube within a house, the Washington Suburban Sanitary Commission (WSSC) reported that the majority of pinhole leaks that their customers had reported were in cold-water, horizontal copper piping. Most of the leaks were in older homes, and 80 percent of the reports involved homes built prior to 1970." Source http://www.repairmyleak.com/about/failure-copper.htm |
...And that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop
On Saturday, March 19, 2016 at 5:00:04 PM UTC-4, bob_villain wrote:
On Friday, March 18, 2016 at 10:47:44 PM UTC-5, Vic Smith wrote: On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 18:34:12 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: A long time ago I needed to cap a pipe, so I decided to try a SharkBite End Cap just to see what they were like. It worked so well that I said to myself, "Self, maybe you should toss a couple of End Caps in the plumbing drawer just in case you need to cap a pipe in an emergency." So, here it is, 9 PM on a Friday night and I walked down into the basement to find that the pipe from the water heater has developed a pin hole leak. So, off with the main, a couple of quick cuts to remove the bad section, push on 2 caps and back on with the main. No showers tomorrow morning, but at least we have water tonight. Tomorrow, I can take my time replacing the bad section. ...and that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop. What do you think caused the pinhole leak? "Although pinhole leaks could happen in any copper pipe or tube within a house, the Washington Suburban Sanitary Commission (WSSC) reported that the majority of pinhole leaks that their customers had reported were in cold-water, Mine was in a hot water pipe. horizontal copper piping. Mine was in a vertical pipe. Most of the leaks were in older homes, and 80 percent of the reports involved homes built prior to 1970." Mine was built in 1956. =NOT(2 out of 3) |
...And that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop
On Saturday, March 19, 2016 at 5:47:51 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Saturday, March 19, 2016 at 5:00:04 PM UTC-4, bob_villain wrote: "Although pinhole leaks could happen in any copper pipe or tube within a house, the Washington Suburban Sanitary Commission (WSSC) reported that the majority of pinhole leaks that their customers had reported were in cold-water, Mine was in a hot water pipe. horizontal copper piping. Mine was in a vertical pipe. Most of the leaks were in older homes, and 80 percent of the reports involved homes built prior to 1970." Mine was built in 1956. =NOT(2 out of 3) Don't shoot the messenger, there is other good information on that site! |
...And that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop
On Sat, 19 Mar 2016 13:59:58 -0700 (PDT), bob_villain
wrote: On Friday, March 18, 2016 at 10:47:44 PM UTC-5, Vic Smith wrote: On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 18:34:12 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: A long time ago I needed to cap a pipe, so I decided to try a SharkBite End Cap just to see what they were like. It worked so well that I said to myself, "Self, maybe you should toss a couple of End Caps in the plumbing drawer just in case you need to cap a pipe in an emergency." So, here it is, 9 PM on a Friday night and I walked down into the basement to find that the pipe from the water heater has developed a pin hole leak. So, off with the main, a couple of quick cuts to remove the bad section, push on 2 caps and back on with the main. No showers tomorrow morning, but at least we have water tonight. Tomorrow, I can take my time replacing the bad section. ...and that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop. What do you think caused the pinhole leak? "Although pinhole leaks could happen in any copper pipe or tube within a house, the Washington Suburban Sanitary Commission (WSSC) reported that the majority of pinhole leaks that their customers had reported were in cold-water, horizontal copper piping. Most of the leaks were in older homes, and 80 percent of the reports involved homes built prior to 1970." Source http://www.repairmyleak.com/about/failure-copper.htm Most common in type M copper too. (the cheap stuff with the red print) Less common in Type L (blue print) and almost unheard of in Type K (green print) L ang K are available soft as well, while M is hard only. Hard L and K can be annealed if a small bend is required. M is only .028 thick. L is .040 and K is .049 If buying a house anf it is plumbed with M (red print) pipe, figure on doing some major replumbing before too long. If you don't have to, you come out ahead. If you don't plan for it and do have to, you loose pretty big-time. |
...And that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop
On Saturday, March 19, 2016 at 9:57:41 PM UTC-4, bob_villain wrote:
On Saturday, March 19, 2016 at 5:47:51 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote: On Saturday, March 19, 2016 at 5:00:04 PM UTC-4, bob_villain wrote: "Although pinhole leaks could happen in any copper pipe or tube within a house, the Washington Suburban Sanitary Commission (WSSC) reported that the majority of pinhole leaks that their customers had reported were in cold-water, Mine was in a hot water pipe. horizontal copper piping. Mine was in a vertical pipe. Most of the leaks were in older homes, and 80 percent of the reports involved homes built prior to 1970." Mine was built in 1956. =NOT(2 out of 3) Don't shoot the messenger, there is other good information on that site! Not shooting, just sayin' ;-) |
...And that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop
its cheap, works awesome, no one will steal it, it never corrodes. Code here is galvanized or copper. PEX not allowed. are you certain that still code? PEX is actually less likely to leak since it can all be home runs from a manifold to fixture. no fittings buried in walls etc |
...And that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop
On Sat, 19 Mar 2016 20:46:51 -0700 (PDT), bob haller
wrote: its cheap, works awesome, no one will steal it, it never corrodes. Code here is galvanized or copper. PEX not allowed. are you certain that still code? PEX is actually less likely to leak since it can all be home runs from a manifold to fixture. no fittings buried in walls etc Yes, I've checked. http://forms.mortongroveil.org/code/ 890 appendix A, table A. Delete "Approved Building Drainage/Vent Pipe", "Approved Materials For Building Sewer", "Approved Material For Water Service Pipe", and "Approved Materials For Water Distribution Pipe" and replace with: Approved Materials For Water Service Pipe Material Standard Ductile iron water pipe AWWA C151; AWWA C115 Copper or copper alloy pipe ASTM B42; ASTM B302 Copper or copper alloy tubing (type K only) ASTM B75; ASTM B88; ASTM B251 Approved Materials For Water Distribution Pipe Material Standard Copper or copper alloy pipe ASTM B42; ASTM B30 Copper or copper alloy tubing (type K or L) ASTM B75; ASTM B88; ASTM B251 Galvanized steel pipe ASTM A53 |
...And that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop
On 3/19/2016 9:26 PM, wrote:
I would'a put a piece of rubber and hose clamp on it and called it good. |
...And that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop
On 03/20/2016 03:12 AM, Vic Smith wrote:
Yes, I've checked.http://forms.mortongroveil.org/code/ Does union influence have anything to do with Morton Grove plumbing code? |
...And that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop
On Sun, 20 Mar 2016 07:45:12 -0600, marcus
wrote: On 03/20/2016 03:12 AM, Vic Smith wrote: Yes, I've checked.http://forms.mortongroveil.org/code/ Does union influence have anything to do with Morton Grove plumbing code? It's probably the trades in general that run the show. Plenty of non-union plumbers and electricians here. Chicago code is common in the counties around Chicago. |
...And that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop
On Sat, 19 Mar 2016 12:40:27 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote: Full Link: http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psicmvmj9x.jpg Very nice job, Derby. |
...And that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop
On Sunday, March 20, 2016 at 2:26:51 PM UTC-4, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 19 Mar 2016 12:40:27 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: Full Link: http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psicmvmj9x.jpg Very nice job, Derby. Thanks. I just hope the electrical solder holds. It was the only kind I had. Kidding! ;-) |
...And that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop
On 3/19/2016 2:40 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Saturday, March 19, 2016 at 12:58:44 AM UTC-4, Vic Smith wrote: On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 21:30:16 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: In the image linked to below, you can see the curve in the pipe as it comes through the sub floor. I think the original installation was under tension, although things didn't really "spring" when I cut out the leaking section last night. I wonder if the tension had relaxed because the original 4" section that came out of the bottom of the T had weakened over time and eventually failed. Just a guess. What I was able to do was use two 45's instead of a single 90. You can see one coming out of the bottom of the T and another about 3" down. I also put 1/4" spacers between the bottom of the joists and the horizontal pipe that comes out of the middle of the T. This set up allowed everything to go back together in a "relaxed" manner. The new section starts with the T and ends with the repair coupling near the electrical wire. The leak was in that short pipe between the two 45's. Originally that pipe had a 90 at the bottom and went directly into the bottom of the T. http://tinyurl.com/NotLeakingYet Full Link: http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psicmvmj9x.jpg That's a really neat and clean job. Well done! |
...And that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop
question forr the poster in morton grove where PEX isnt approved.
do the big box stores like home depot and lowes sell it anyway?? |
...And that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop
On Sun, 20 Mar 2016 18:38:59 -0700 (PDT), bob haller
wrote: question forr the poster in morton grove where PEX isnt approved. do the big box stores like home depot and lowes sell it anyway?? Sure do. |
...And that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop
On Monday, March 21, 2016 at 3:26:06 AM UTC-4, Vic Smith wrote:
On Sun, 20 Mar 2016 18:38:59 -0700 (PDT), bob haller wrote: question forr the poster in morton grove where PEX isnt approved. do the big box stores like home depot and lowes sell it anyway?? Sure do. When I looked at your link it appeared that your village recently adopted the overall Illinois plumbing code. Maybe I read it wrong, but Section 890 of the state code appears to allow PEX. Are you saying that your village adopted the state code and then amended it to be more restrictive PEX? If so, do you know why? |
...And that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop
On 3/20/2016 9:38 PM, bob haller wrote:
question forr the poster in morton grove where PEX isnt approved. do the big box stores like home depot and lowes sell it anyway?? They sell plumbing and electrical parts and material that, by code, you need to have a permit to install. If you had to show your permit or license to buy the stuff they would go out of business. Besides, the people in Morton Grove that buy pex do so just to make spray things for their pool, they would never consider doing a job not to code. |
...And that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop
On Mon, 21 Mar 2016 10:48:03 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 3/20/2016 9:38 PM, bob haller wrote: question forr the poster in morton grove where PEX isnt approved. do the big box stores like home depot and lowes sell it anyway?? They sell plumbing and electrical parts and material that, by code, you need to have a permit to install. If you had to show your permit or license to buy the stuff they would go out of business. Besides, the people in Morton Grove that buy pex do so just to make spray things for their pool, they would never consider doing a job not to code. Ha Ha Ha |
...And that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop
On Monday, March 21, 2016 at 10:47:41 AM UTC-4, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 3/20/2016 9:38 PM, bob haller wrote: question forr the poster in morton grove where PEX isnt approved. do the big box stores like home depot and lowes sell it anyway?? They sell plumbing and electrical parts and material that, by code, you need to have a permit to install. If you had to show your permit or license to buy the stuff they would go out of business. Besides, the people in Morton Grove that buy pex do so just to make spray things for their pool, they would never consider doing a job not to code. No, that's not it. The vast majority of plumbers licensed to work in Illinois live in the village of Morton Grove. Every inch of PEX that they buy locally is carried out of the village and used on jobs in villages, towns and cities where the planning boards actually have a clue. I've heard that they are escorted out of town by the code police after every purchase. |
...And that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop
Vic Smith posted for all of us...
On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 21:30:16 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: On Friday, March 18, 2016 at 11:47:44 PM UTC-4, Vic Smith wrote: On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 18:34:12 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: A long time ago I needed to cap a pipe, so I decided to try a SharkBite End Cap just to see what they were like. It worked so well that I said to myself, "Self, maybe you should toss a couple of End Caps in the plumbing drawer just in case you need to cap a pipe in an emergency." So, here it is, 9 PM on a Friday night and I walked down into the basement to find that the pipe from the water heater has developed a pin hole leak. So, off with the main, a couple of quick cuts to remove the bad section, push on 2 caps and back on with the main. No showers tomorrow morning, but at least we have water tonight. Tomorrow, I can take my time replacing the bad section. ...and that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop. What do you think caused the pinhole leak? I don't know. The pinhole was on a short (4") section of pipe between a T and a 90. I cut the pipe exactly at the pin hole, leaving about 1" sticking out the T. (That left me enough room to put the cap on. I'll need to replace the T and the 90 tomorrow) Anyway, after I cut the pipe I noticed that the pin hole had begun to turn into a slit, I assume from the pressure of the cutter. That tells me the leak was about to get much bigger. As I said, I cut the pipe exactly at the pin hole and this is what I found inside the pipe right at the cut. (Ignore the outside of the pipe. I had cleaned the outside before cutting it.) http://tinyurl.com/CutPipe Full Link: http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psl6dtvfep.jpg I can't tell if the "scale" that you see is buildup or what's left behind from disintegrating copper. It extends down about 1/2" but it is all around the inside of the pipe at the cut, not just on the side where the hole was. I have a plumbing supply house that I like, so I may take the piece over there and have them tell me what's going on. In any case, the rest of that short piece of pipe will be gone first thing in the morning. Let us know what they say. I'm curious. I'll be repiping my galvanized soon with copper. Because I don't have my threading tools anymore, copper pipe is cheaper, and it might make a difference in the house's resale value. The piping is 58 years old. No leaks, but the flow is getting restricted enough that it's time to do it. Have you thought about PEX? -- Tekkie |
...And that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop
On Monday, March 21, 2016 at 3:56:04 PM UTC-4, Tekkie® wrote:
Vic Smith posted for all of us... On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 21:30:16 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: On Friday, March 18, 2016 at 11:47:44 PM UTC-4, Vic Smith wrote: On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 18:34:12 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: A long time ago I needed to cap a pipe, so I decided to try a SharkBite End Cap just to see what they were like. It worked so well that I said to myself, "Self, maybe you should toss a couple of End Caps in the plumbing drawer just in case you need to cap a pipe in an emergency." So, here it is, 9 PM on a Friday night and I walked down into the basement to find that the pipe from the water heater has developed a pin hole leak. So, off with the main, a couple of quick cuts to remove the bad section, push on 2 caps and back on with the main. No showers tomorrow morning, but at least we have water tonight. Tomorrow, I can take my time replacing the bad section. ...and that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop. What do you think caused the pinhole leak? I don't know. The pinhole was on a short (4") section of pipe between a T and a 90. I cut the pipe exactly at the pin hole, leaving about 1" sticking out the T. (That left me enough room to put the cap on. I'll need to replace the T and the 90 tomorrow) Anyway, after I cut the pipe I noticed that the pin hole had begun to turn into a slit, I assume from the pressure of the cutter. That tells me the leak was about to get much bigger. As I said, I cut the pipe exactly at the pin hole and this is what I found inside the pipe right at the cut. (Ignore the outside of the pipe. I had cleaned the outside before cutting it.) http://tinyurl.com/CutPipe Full Link: http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psl6dtvfep.jpg I can't tell if the "scale" that you see is buildup or what's left behind from disintegrating copper. It extends down about 1/2" but it is all around the inside of the pipe at the cut, not just on the side where the hole was. I have a plumbing supply house that I like, so I may take the piece over there and have them tell me what's going on. In any case, the rest of that short piece of pipe will be gone first thing in the morning. Let us know what they say. I'm curious. I'll be repiping my galvanized soon with copper. Because I don't have my threading tools anymore, copper pipe is cheaper, and it might make a difference in the house's resale value. The piping is 58 years old. No leaks, but the flow is getting restricted enough that it's time to do it. Have you thought about PEX? Have you thought about reading the thread before responding? |
...And that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop
On Mon, 21 Mar 2016 04:17:12 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote: On Monday, March 21, 2016 at 3:26:06 AM UTC-4, Vic Smith wrote: On Sun, 20 Mar 2016 18:38:59 -0700 (PDT), bob haller wrote: question forr the poster in morton grove where PEX isnt approved. do the big box stores like home depot and lowes sell it anyway?? Sure do. When I looked at your link it appeared that your village recently adopted the overall Illinois plumbing code. Maybe I read it wrong, but Section 890 of the state code appears to allow PEX. Are you saying that your village adopted the state code and then amended it to be more restrictive PEX? Yes. I copied and pasted the relevant sections, which said "delete" and "replace with." If so, do you know why? My assumption is they are protecting the building trades. The Chicago way. |
...And that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop
On Mon, 21 Mar 2016 13:01:58 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote: On Monday, March 21, 2016 at 3:56:04 PM UTC-4, Tekkie® wrote: Vic Smith posted for all of us... On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 21:30:16 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: On Friday, March 18, 2016 at 11:47:44 PM UTC-4, Vic Smith wrote: On Fri, 18 Mar 2016 18:34:12 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 wrote: A long time ago I needed to cap a pipe, so I decided to try a SharkBite End Cap just to see what they were like. It worked so well that I said to myself, "Self, maybe you should toss a couple of End Caps in the plumbing drawer just in case you need to cap a pipe in an emergency." So, here it is, 9 PM on a Friday night and I walked down into the basement to find that the pipe from the water heater has developed a pin hole leak. So, off with the main, a couple of quick cuts to remove the bad section, push on 2 caps and back on with the main. No showers tomorrow morning, but at least we have water tonight. Tomorrow, I can take my time replacing the bad section. ...and that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop. What do you think caused the pinhole leak? I don't know. The pinhole was on a short (4") section of pipe between a T and a 90. I cut the pipe exactly at the pin hole, leaving about 1" sticking out the T. (That left me enough room to put the cap on. I'll need to replace the T and the 90 tomorrow) Anyway, after I cut the pipe I noticed that the pin hole had begun to turn into a slit, I assume from the pressure of the cutter. That tells me the leak was about to get much bigger. As I said, I cut the pipe exactly at the pin hole and this is what I found inside the pipe right at the cut. (Ignore the outside of the pipe. I had cleaned the outside before cutting it.) http://tinyurl.com/CutPipe Full Link: http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psl6dtvfep.jpg I can't tell if the "scale" that you see is buildup or what's left behind from disintegrating copper. It extends down about 1/2" but it is all around the inside of the pipe at the cut, not just on the side where the hole was. I have a plumbing supply house that I like, so I may take the piece over there and have them tell me what's going on. In any case, the rest of that short piece of pipe will be gone first thing in the morning. Let us know what they say. I'm curious. I'll be repiping my galvanized soon with copper. Because I don't have my threading tools anymore, copper pipe is cheaper, and it might make a difference in the house's resale value. The piping is 58 years old. No leaks, but the flow is getting restricted enough that it's time to do it. Have you thought about PEX? Have you thought about reading the thread before responding? Of course not. He'd never think of that. |
...And that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop
On Mon, 21 Mar 2016 13:01:58 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote: Have you thought about PEX? Have you thought about reading the thread before responding? PEX is for people who are too lazy to do REAL Plumbing. It's about the same as running a garden hose to your sink, toilet, or whatever else. It may seem durable and strong, but for how long? It's plastic, and like all plastics, it has a limited life span. Some day in the future you'll come home and find your house flooded because this plastic crap broke. REAL PLUMBING is made from metal, and is a PIPE, not a HOSE! But we live in a day and age when people worship plastics and dont want to do any REAL work, or pay for REAL plumbing. Pex is fine for a temporary means to get water from point A to point B, but it's NOT a permanent plumbing. I might consider it for an outdoor sprinkler system. but not for "piping" in my home. --- As far as the original topic of this thread, I recall reading somewhere in this (long) thread that there was stress on these copper pipes due to poor alignment of the pipes. That likely was part, or all of the cause this short piece of pipe failed. The ideal solution would be to install one of those flexible copper (or stainless steel) pipes made for water heaters. That way there's no stress on the pipes. |
...And that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop
On Mon, 21 Mar 2016 16:50:27 -0500, wrote:
PEX is for people who are too lazy to do REAL Plumbing. PEX is for people smarter than you. |
...And that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop
|
...And that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop
On Mon, 21 Mar 2016 18:37:10 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 3/21/2016 5:50 PM, wrote: PEX is for people who are too lazy to do REAL Plumbing. It's about the same as running a garden hose to your sink, toilet, or whatever else. It may seem durable and strong, but for how long? It's plastic, and like all plastics, it has a limited life span. Some day in the future you'll come home and find your house flooded because this plastic crap broke. REAL PLUMBING is made from metal, and is a PIPE, not a HOSE! Oh man, that is funny. The start of this thread was about a copper tube leaking. Yeah, metal pipe is perfect! PEX has been in use for about 60 years now. Any pipe can develop a leak, and the copper was a pin hole, not a gushing fully broken pipe. If a PEX connector comes apart, it will result in a flood, not a small puddle. PEX may have been developed 60 years ago, but it was not allowed in America until recently, and is still not allowed by code in some parts of the country, and for GOOD REASON! I dont know if it's allowed in my part of the country, and I really dont care, but if I had any say in local codes, I would vote against it. (But I dont have any say). No matter how you look at it, it's a HOSE, not REAL PLUMBING! I do know it will never be used in any home I live in! |
...And that's why I keep SharkBite End Caps in the shop
On Mon, 21 Mar 2016 18:37:10 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 3/21/2016 5:50 PM, wrote: PEX is for people who are too lazy to do REAL Plumbing. It's about the same as running a garden hose to your sink, toilet, or whatever else. It may seem durable and strong, but for how long? It's plastic, and like all plastics, it has a limited life span. Some day in the future you'll come home and find your house flooded because this plastic crap broke. REAL PLUMBING is made from metal, and is a PIPE, not a HOSE! Oh man, that is funny. The start of this thread was about a copper tube leaking. Yeah, metal pipe is perfect! PEX has been in use for about 60 years now. My entire house plumbing pipe is PEX ~20 years old. Never a single leak, even after I extended two lines for a bath renovation. Heck, I don't even have shut off valves at any water fixture that can go bad. You never see plumbers in my `hood. |
| All times are GMT +1. The time now is 01:26 PM. |
|
Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004 - 2014 DIYbanter