A friend is having trouble with a small (5-7HP) engine.
Not starting. Aside from checking for spark (after
ensuring no "old" fuel present), I can't think of any
easy tests that he can perform...?

On Tue, 12 Jan 2016 12:04:14 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

A friend is having trouble with a small (5-7HP) engine.
Not starting. Aside from checking for spark (after
ensuring no "old" fuel present), I can't think of any
easy tests that he can perform...?

Squirt a little gas right into the carb throat and see if it runs a
few seconds

On 2016-01-12, wrote:

Squirt a little gas right into the carb throat and see if it runs a
few seconds

Squirt a little gas directly into the spark plug hole (spark plug
removed). Put plug back in and then try and restart it. This will
tell you if you have a problem with the carburator. .

nb

On 1/12/2016 2:04 PM, Don Y wrote:
A friend is having trouble with a small (5-7HP) engine.
Not starting. Aside from checking for spark (after
ensuring no "old" fuel present), I can't think of any
easy tests that he can perform...?

Remove spark plug, and clean it. Check for "wet"
with gasoline.

Does it start with a spray of ether onto the
air cleaner?

Is the oil filled up to the full line on the dip
stick?

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Tue, 12 Jan 2016 12:04:14 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

A friend is having trouble with a small (5-7HP) engine.
Not starting. Aside from checking for spark (after
ensuring no "old" fuel present), I can't think of any
easy tests that he can perform...?

Is there a gas shut off that was not turned on?

Is there a switch that was not flipped to the run position?

Silly, but folks overlook the simple things, first.

Does the engine fire and try to run - acts like it wants to?

usual problems are

overlooked on off interlock switch
bad gas
no gas
no spark
busted shear key throws the flywheel timing off after hitting a rock

M

"Oren" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 12 Jan 2016 12:04:14 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

A friend is having trouble with a small (5-7HP) engine.
Not starting. Aside from checking for spark (after
ensuring no "old" fuel present), I can't think of any
easy tests that he can perform...?

Is there a gas shut off that was not turned on?

Is there a switch that was not flipped to the run position?

Silly, but folks overlook the simple things, first.

Does the engine fire and try to run - acts like it wants to?

I ran into both of those on 2 seperate samll engines.

On one the gas shut off was backwards from what I am used to seeing , when
cross ways to the line it was on instead of off. Took about 20 minuits to
find that as I kept turning it off and on and the tiller it was on would run
for about 30 to 60 seconds.

The other was a 5 KW generator. It had an on/off switch that was not
mentioned in the manual. As it was dark the first time I tried to start it,
I missed it and about an hour later the power came back on. Found it the
next day in the sun light.

On 1/12/2016 12:47 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 12 Jan 2016 12:04:14 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

A friend is having trouble with a small (5-7HP) engine.
Not starting. Aside from checking for spark (after
ensuring no "old" fuel present), I can't think of any
easy tests that he can perform...?

Squirt a little gas right into the carb throat and see if it runs a
few seconds

I wouldn't trust him to do this. If I knew he had a can of "hot shot",
I might suggest it (as that is somewhat self-limiting in terms of
quantity).

Pulling a plug wire and watching for a spark is relatively easy to
"get right"...

On Tue, 12 Jan 2016 20:07:58 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 1/12/2016 12:47 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 12 Jan 2016 12:04:14 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

A friend is having trouble with a small (5-7HP) engine.
Not starting. Aside from checking for spark (after
ensuring no "old" fuel present), I can't think of any
easy tests that he can perform...?

Squirt a little gas right into the carb throat and see if it runs a
few seconds

I wouldn't trust him to do this. If I knew he had a can of "hot shot",
I might suggest it (as that is somewhat self-limiting in terms of
quantity).

Pulling a plug wire and watching for a spark is relatively easy to
"get right"...
Just don't sqirt the gas in while it is cranking over.
I used to have an old gasoline blowtorch I used to squirt gas into
intakes - if it backfired I turned off the valve and there was no
chance of the fire coming back up into the "squirter"

I got my first teaching gig when an instructor poured gas down the
carb of a chevy six in the auto shop and it backfired. He got pretty
badly burned - was off work for 9 months and was still pretty tender
when he returned the following september.

On Tuesday, January 12, 2016 at 1:03:43 PM UTC-6, Don Y wrote:
A friend is having trouble with a small (5-7HP) engine.
Not starting. Aside from checking for spark (after
ensuring no "old" fuel present), I can't think of any
easy tests that he can perform...?

I've replaced the little electronic ignition modules that are attached to the mag coil to fix some small engines. I have some brass shim stock of different thicknesses that I've use to set the clearance for the magneto coils on small engines. The shim stock is a lot easier to use than feeler gauges to setup the mag coil. If the coil is too far away from the flywheel, the engine will not run. Your friend can lookup the specs for his engine on the manufacturer's website and use a feeler gauge to check that clearance. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Feely Monster

On Tue, 12 Jan 2016 20:01:25 -0800 (PST), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Tuesday, January 12, 2016 at 1:03:43 PM UTC-6, Don Y wrote:
A friend is having trouble with a small (5-7HP) engine.
Not starting. Aside from checking for spark (after
ensuring no "old" fuel present), I can't think of any
easy tests that he can perform...?

I've replaced the little electronic ignition modules that are attached to the mag coil to fix some small engines. I have some brass shim stock of different thicknesses that I've use to set the clearance for the magneto coils on small engines. The shim stock is a lot easier to use than feeler gauges to setup the mag coil. If the coil is too far away from the flywheel, the engine will not run. Your friend can lookup the specs for his engine on the manufacturer's website and use a feeler gauge to check that clearance. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Feely Monster
A business card works pretty well to adjust the mag clearance.

On 1/12/2016 2:04 PM, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 12 Jan 2016 12:04:14 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

A friend is having trouble with a small (5-7HP) engine.
Not starting. Aside from checking for spark (after
ensuring no "old" fuel present), I can't think of any
easy tests that he can perform...?

Is there a gas shut off that was not turned on?

Is there a switch that was not flipped to the run position?

Silly, but folks overlook the simple things, first.

Does the engine fire and try to run - acts like it wants to?

I have to assume he knows the drill. He works with much of this
stuff (but never has to *repair* it).

I have no idea of the actual problem/symptoms. Folks seem to
think mentioning a *category* of device should be enough for
me to reply as to whether or not I can repair ANYTHING in that
category -- as if a Mac and PC were the same devices just at
different price points (having the tools/experience with one
"automatically" qualifies you to work on the other?)

He described a "lawn-mower-style" engine. But, I know it can't be
a lawn-mower as he doesn't have a *lawn*!

I've asked for photos -- esp of the nameplate (as folks never seem to
get the right information to me). But, I suspect this will be yet
another "Do-you-think-you-can-fix-it-for-me-Don". (sigh) Hopefully
it's not *too* big as we're short on space for things like that outdoors...

On Tuesday, January 12, 2016 at 10:27:25 PM UTC-6, wrote:
On Tue, 12 Jan 2016 20:01:25 -0800 (PST), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Tuesday, January 12, 2016 at 1:03:43 PM UTC-6, Don Y wrote:
A friend is having trouble with a small (5-7HP) engine.
Not starting. Aside from checking for spark (after
ensuring no "old" fuel present), I can't think of any
easy tests that he can perform...?

I've replaced the little electronic ignition modules that are attached to the mag coil to fix some small engines. I have some brass shim stock of different thicknesses that I've use to set the clearance for the magneto coils on small engines. The shim stock is a lot easier to use than feeler gauges to setup the mag coil. If the coil is too far away from the flywheel, the engine will not run. Your friend can lookup the specs for his engine on the manufacturer's website and use a feeler gauge to check that clearance. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Feely Monster

A business card works pretty well to adjust the mag clearance.

I recall seeing something like that in a manual for small engine repair but I wonder if most business card stock will be the same thickness? Of course there is always that saying, "Close enough for government work." (€¢€¿€¢)

[8~{} Uncle Precise Monster

On Wednesday, January 13, 2016 at 4:39:38 AM UTC-6, Uncle Monster wrote:
On Tuesday, January 12, 2016 at 10:27:25 PM UTC-6, wrote:
On Tue, 12 Jan 2016 20:01:25 -0800 (PST), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Tuesday, January 12, 2016 at 1:03:43 PM UTC-6, Don Y wrote:
A friend is having trouble with a small (5-7HP) engine.
Not starting. Aside from checking for spark (after
ensuring no "old" fuel present), I can't think of any
easy tests that he can perform...?

I've replaced the little electronic ignition modules that are attached to the mag coil to fix some small engines. I have some brass shim stock of different thicknesses that I've use to set the clearance for the magneto coils on small engines. The shim stock is a lot easier to use than feeler gauges to setup the mag coil. If the coil is too far away from the flywheel, the engine will not run. Your friend can lookup the specs for his engine on the manufacturer's website and use a feeler gauge to check that clearance. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Feely Monster

A business card works pretty well to adjust the mag clearance.

I recall seeing something like that in a manual for small engine repair but I wonder if most business card stock will be the same thickness? Of course there is always that saying, "Close enough for government work." (€¢€¿€¢)

[8~{} Uncle Precise Monster

We used 3x5 index cards...they cover the span better.

Don Y explained on 1/12/2016 :
A friend is having trouble with a small (5-7HP) engine.
Not starting. Aside from checking for spark (after
ensuring no "old" fuel present), I can't think of any
easy tests that he can perform...?

Heat up the spark plug and try starting it.

On 1/13/2016 10:08 AM, Eagle wrote:
Don Y explained on 1/12/2016 :
A friend is having trouble with a small (5-7HP) engine.
Not starting. Aside from checking for spark (after
ensuring no "old" fuel present), I can't think of any
easy tests that he can perform...?

Heat up the spark plug and try starting it.

I've never heard that one. What does that do?
Heat it, how? Pot of boiling water on the stove?

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Tue, 12 Jan 2016 21:45:35 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

I have to assume he knows the drill. He works with much of this
stuff (but never has to *repair* it).

I cannot find a link that has been posted here many times before. A
really good repair guide. In the mean time, you might pass this one to
your friend.

PDF:

http://static.ddmcdn.com/pdf/how-to-repair-small-engines.pdf

On 1/12/2016 1:04 PM, Don Y wrote:
A friend is having trouble with a small (5-7HP) engine.
Not starting. Aside from checking for spark (after
ensuring no "old" fuel present), I can't think of any
easy tests that he can perform...?

If it's an overhead valve engine check to be sure the valves are
opening. Sometimes the adjustment backs off, and sometimes the tip of
the push rods will wear down or break.

On 1/13/2016 10:06 AM, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 12 Jan 2016 21:45:35 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

I have to assume he knows the drill. He works with much of this
stuff (but never has to *repair* it).

I cannot find a link that has been posted here many times before. A
really good repair guide. In the mean time, you might pass this one to
your friend.

PDF:

http://static.ddmcdn.com/pdf/how-to-repair-small-engines.pdf

Thanks, I'll make a note of it. But, he's not the type who usually
likes to "tinker". Wanna bet *I'll* either be asked to fix it
OR he'll just "buy new"? :

On Wed, 13 Jan 2016 11:57:29 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 1/13/2016 10:06 AM, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 12 Jan 2016 21:45:35 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

I have to assume he knows the drill. He works with much of this
stuff (but never has to *repair* it).

I cannot find a link that has been posted here many times before. A
really good repair guide. In the mean time, you might pass this one to
your friend.

PDF:

http://static.ddmcdn.com/pdf/how-to-repair-small-engines.pdf

Thanks, I'll make a note of it. But, he's not the type who usually
likes to "tinker". Wanna bet *I'll* either be asked to fix it
OR he'll just "buy new"? :

It can't be difficult to get the engine to run unless it is a
mechanical failure. It just needs fuel, oxygen and ignition

On Wed, 13 Jan 2016 02:39:29 -0800 (PST), Uncle Monster
wrote:

I've replaced the little electronic ignition modules that are attached to the mag coil to fix some small engines. I have some brass shim stock of different thicknesses that I've use to set the clearance for the magneto coils on small engines. The shim stock is a lot easier to use than feeler gauges to setup the mag coil. If the coil is too far away from the flywheel, the engine will not run. Your friend can lookup the specs for his engine on the manufacturer's website and use a feeler gauge to check that clearance. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Feely Monster

A business card works pretty well to adjust the mag clearance.

I recall seeing something like that in a manual for small engine repair but I wonder if most business card stock will be the same thickness? Of course there is always that saying, "Close enough for government work." (•?•)


A match book cover is a good choice in a pinch. Even used in years
past to set gaps for distributor points.

Cousin Swamp Billy

It can't be difficult to get the engine to run unless it is a
mechanical failure. It just needs fuel, oxygen and ignition

ignition at the ____right___ time.

Google Shear key.
M

On Wed, 13 Jan 2016 11:32:35 -0800 (PST), wrote:



It can't be difficult to get the engine to run unless it is a
mechanical failure. It just needs fuel, oxygen and ignition

ignition at the ____right___ time.

Google Shear key.
M

I familiar with a shear key so I don't need google. A failed shear
key is a mechanical failure

The problem here is the OP is trying to help a person that has not
contributed to the subject.
--
"We are all born ignorant, but one must work hard to remain stupid."

Benjamin Franklin

Stormin Mormon used his keyboard to write :
On 1/13/2016 10:08 AM, Eagle wrote:
Don Y explained on 1/12/2016 :
A friend is having trouble with a small (5-7HP) engine.
Not starting. Aside from checking for spark (after
ensuring no "old" fuel present), I can't think of any
easy tests that he can perform...?

Heat up the spark plug and try starting it.

I've never heard that one. What does that do?

Getting the plug up to temp will evaperate gasoline quicker and start a
cold engine faster. I do this with My mower [as well as shoot a little
gas into the plug hole] and 9 times out of ten it fires right up.

Heat it, how? Pot of boiling water on the stove?

Yes, and don't forget the carrots and onions.

On Wed, 13 Jan 2016 12:00:27 -0800, "Eagle"
wrote:

Heat up the spark plug and try starting it.

I've never heard that one. What does that do?

Getting the plug up to temp will evaperate gasoline quicker and start a
cold engine faster. I do this with My mower [as well as shoot a little
gas into the plug hole] and 9 times out of ten it fires right up.

Just buy the plug with the correct heat range. They vary, you know.
Some are hotter ranges than others.
--
"We are all born ignorant, but one must work hard to remain stupid."

Benjamin Franklin

On 1/13/2016 12:17 PM, Oren wrote:
Thanks, I'll make a note of it. But, he's not the type who usually
likes to "tinker". Wanna bet *I'll* either be asked to fix it
OR he'll just "buy new"? :

It can't be difficult to get the engine to run unless it is a
mechanical failure. It just needs fuel, oxygen and ignition

Yeah, as autoshop teacher always said when troubleshooting
car engines. I used to keep a neon lamp driven off the coil
wire *on* my dash (if lamp isn't lit, aint got no spark!)

Issue will be his eagerness to get *past* the "problem" -- by
either dropping it in *my* lap or purchasing a replacement.

Power connector for his $1500 laptop broke. He was ready to buy
a new laptop instead of the $4 replacement part (plus a whole day
of MY time!) that it took to get it (and all his files!) back.

I'm not keen to extend myself for fear he'll show up with
something *big* and bulky -- that I won't be able to move to a
convenient workplace (e.g., our back yard is not easily accessible
except THROUGH the house!). There are limits to friendship! :

On 1/13/2016 1:57 PM, Don Y wrote:

http://static.ddmcdn.com/pdf/how-to-repair-small-engines.pdf

Thanks, I'll make a note of it. But, he's not the type who usually
likes to "tinker". Wanna bet *I'll* either be asked to fix it
OR he'll just "buy new"? :


What was the device in question? Lawn mower?
Generator? Tiller? Huh?

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Wed, 13 Jan 2016 02:39:29 -0800 (PST), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Tuesday, January 12, 2016 at 10:27:25 PM UTC-6, wrote:
On Tue, 12 Jan 2016 20:01:25 -0800 (PST), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Tuesday, January 12, 2016 at 1:03:43 PM UTC-6, Don Y wrote:
A friend is having trouble with a small (5-7HP) engine.
Not starting. Aside from checking for spark (after
ensuring no "old" fuel present), I can't think of any
easy tests that he can perform...?

I've replaced the little electronic ignition modules that are attached to the mag coil to fix some small engines. I have some brass shim stock of different thicknesses that I've use to set the clearance for the magneto coils on small engines. The shim stock is a lot easier to use than feeler gauges to setup the mag coil. If the coil is too far away from the flywheel, the engine will not run. Your friend can lookup the specs for his engine on the manufacturer's website and use a feeler gauge to check that clearance. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Feely Monster

A business card works pretty well to adjust the mag clearance.

I recall seeing something like that in a manual for small engine repair but I wonder if most business card stock will be the same thickness? Of course there is always that saying, "Close enough for government work." (•?•)

[8~{} Uncle Precise Monster
Not ALL business cards are the same thickness, but a atandard
business card stock is "12 pt" or "100 lb" stock - and 12 point means
the paper is 0.012" thick.

That just happens to be "close enough" for most Briggs engines - with
specs ranging from .006-.010 on the lowest, to 10-14 on the highest,
with most spec'd at .008 - .012, and a few at .012 - .020.

On Wed, 13 Jan 2016 05:24:30 -0800 (PST), bob_villain
wrote:

On Wednesday, January 13, 2016 at 4:39:38 AM UTC-6, Uncle Monster wrote:
On Tuesday, January 12, 2016 at 10:27:25 PM UTC-6, wrote:
On Tue, 12 Jan 2016 20:01:25 -0800 (PST), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Tuesday, January 12, 2016 at 1:03:43 PM UTC-6, Don Y wrote:
A friend is having trouble with a small (5-7HP) engine.
Not starting. Aside from checking for spark (after
ensuring no "old" fuel present), I can't think of any
easy tests that he can perform...?

I've replaced the little electronic ignition modules that are attached to the mag coil to fix some small engines. I have some brass shim stock of different thicknesses that I've use to set the clearance for the magneto coils on small engines. The shim stock is a lot easier to use than feeler gauges to setup the mag coil. If the coil is too far away from the flywheel, the engine will not run. Your friend can lookup the specs for his engine on the manufacturer's website and use a feeler gauge to check that clearance. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Feely Monster

A business card works pretty well to adjust the mag clearance.

I recall seeing something like that in a manual for small engine repair but I wonder if most business card stock will be the same thickness? Of course there is always that saying, "Close enough for government work." (•?•)

[8~{} Uncle Precise Monster

We used 3x5 index cards...they cover the span better.

What is sold as "super thick" index cards are also 100lb stock - and
11pt thickness - so"good enough" Most 90 to 110lb card stock is
either 11 or 12 pt. 1 110 lb 11pt is "harder" than a 100lb or 90lb
12pt stock, but the same thickness.

Average cereal box is about 23pt - too thick.
American paper currency is aproxemately .004" (4 pt) which is way too
thin.

On Wed, 13 Jan 2016 11:58:02 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 1/13/2016 10:08 AM, Eagle wrote:
Don Y explained on 1/12/2016 :
A friend is having trouble with a small (5-7HP) engine.
Not starting. Aside from checking for spark (after
ensuring no "old" fuel present), I can't think of any
easy tests that he can perform...?

Heat up the spark plug and try starting it.

I've never heard that one. What does that do?
Heat it, how? Pot of boiling water on the stove?
Take the plug and heat it with a propane or butane torch. This drives
out any moisture, evaporates any fuel, and removes any oil fouling. -
making the plug more likely to fire if adequate fuel and spark are
available,

Works good for starting flooded engines. I've also on occaision held
the torch over the plug hole and pulled the rope. It sucks the flame
into the cyl and very quicly clears a flooded cyl.. Just stand back,
because it can blow a bright blue flame a few inches out of the hole
too.

On 1/13/2016 2:32 PM, wrote:


Google Shear key.
M


I didn't know Google had a shear key. If it breaks you can't Google?

On Wed, 13 Jan 2016 12:17:25 -0800, Oren wrote:

On Wed, 13 Jan 2016 12:00:27 -0800, "Eagle"
wrote:

Heat up the spark plug and try starting it.

I've never heard that one. What does that do?

Getting the plug up to temp will evaperate gasoline quicker and start a
cold engine faster. I do this with My mower [as well as shoot a little
gas into the plug hole] and 9 times out of ten it fires right up.

Just buy the plug with the correct heat range. They vary, you know.
Some are hotter ranges than others.
The heat range has NOTHING to do with starting temperature. A hotter
range plug won't start any easier than a cold one (at least not the
first time). A cold plug may foul quicker -- but that's a different
subject.

On 1/13/16 4:23 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 13 Jan 2016 11:58:02 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 1/13/2016 10:08 AM, Eagle wrote:
Don Y explained on 1/12/2016 :
A friend is having trouble with a small (5-7HP) engine.
Not starting. Aside from checking for spark (after
ensuring no "old" fuel present), I can't think of any
easy tests that he can perform...?

Heat up the spark plug and try starting it.

I've never heard that one. What does that do?
Heat it, how? Pot of boiling water on the stove?
Take the plug and heat it with a propane or butane torch. This drives
out any moisture, evaporates any fuel, and removes any oil fouling. -
making the plug more likely to fire if adequate fuel and spark are
available,

Works good for starting flooded engines. I've also on occaision held
the torch over the plug hole and pulled the rope. It sucks the flame
into the cyl and very quicly clears a flooded cyl.. Just stand back,
because it can blow a bright blue flame a few inches out of the hole
too.


How do you handle the resulting fire or explosion?

--
The lion may be King of the Jungle, but airdrop him into Antarctica and
he’s just a penguin’s bitch.
- Capt. James Pickett

"Oren" wrote in message
...
Just buy the plug with the correct heat range. They vary, you know.
Some are hotter ranges than others.
--
"We are all born ignorant, but one must work hard to remain stupid."

Benjamin Franklin

What has the heat range got to do with the engine starting if it is clean
and not caked up with carbon or some such ? If the plug is clean the heat
range does not come into play as far as the engine starting.

On 1/13/2016 4:23 PM, wrote:

Works good for starting flooded engines. I've also on occaision held
the torch over the plug hole and pulled the rope. It sucks the flame
into the cyl and very quicly clears a flooded cyl.. Just stand back,
because it can blow a bright blue flame a few inches out of the hole
too.


There once was a man from Morass,
who cleared with a torch of brass.

I leave it to gentle readers to write
the rest of the limerick.

I've cleared flooded by remove the spark
plug and then yank the start cord several
times. No blue flames for me.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Wed, 13 Jan 2016 16:30:58 -0500, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote:


"Oren" wrote in message
.. .
Just buy the plug with the correct heat range. They vary, you know.
Some are hotter ranges than others.
--
"We are all born ignorant, but one must work hard to remain stupid."

Benjamin Franklin

What has the heat range got to do with the engine starting if it is clean
and not caked up with carbon or some such ? If the plug is clean the heat
range does not come into play as far as the engine starting.


If the plug is clean and gapped right, what is the need to heat it?

formulated on Wednesday :
On Wed, 13 Jan 2016 11:58:02 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 1/13/2016 10:08 AM, Eagle wrote:
Don Y explained on 1/12/2016 :
A friend is having trouble with a small (5-7HP) engine.
Not starting. Aside from checking for spark (after
ensuring no "old" fuel present), I can't think of any
easy tests that he can perform...?

Heat up the spark plug and try starting it.

I've never heard that one. What does that do?
Heat it, how? Pot of boiling water on the stove?
Take the plug and heat it with a propane or butane torch. This drives
out any moisture, evaporates any fuel, and removes any oil fouling. -
making the plug more likely to fire if adequate fuel and spark are
available,

Works good for starting flooded engines. I've also on occaision held
the torch over the plug hole and pulled the rope. It sucks the flame
into the cyl and very quicly clears a flooded cyl.. Just stand back,
because it can blow a bright blue flame a few inches out of the hole
too.

Yep.

On Wed, 13 Jan 2016 16:29:36 -0500, Wade Garrett
wrote:

On 1/13/16 4:23 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 13 Jan 2016 11:58:02 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 1/13/2016 10:08 AM, Eagle wrote:
Don Y explained on 1/12/2016 :
A friend is having trouble with a small (5-7HP) engine.
Not starting. Aside from checking for spark (after
ensuring no "old" fuel present), I can't think of any
easy tests that he can perform...?

Heat up the spark plug and try starting it.

I've never heard that one. What does that do?
Heat it, how? Pot of boiling water on the stove?
Take the plug and heat it with a propane or butane torch. This drives
out any moisture, evaporates any fuel, and removes any oil fouling. -
making the plug more likely to fire if adequate fuel and spark are
available,

Works good for starting flooded engines. I've also on occaision held
the torch over the plug hole and pulled the rope. It sucks the flame
into the cyl and very quicly clears a flooded cyl.. Just stand back,
because it can blow a bright blue flame a few inches out of the hole
too.


How do you handle the resulting fire or explosion?
It is just a short "whoosh" and it's done..

On 1/13/2016 2:23 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 1/13/2016 2:32 PM, wrote:


Google Shear key.
M


I didn't know Google had a shear key. If it breaks you can't Google?

No, your searches "slip" over to Bing...

On 01/13/2016 05:07 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
There once was a man from Morass,
who cleared with a torch of brass.
when he swallowed some gas
flames shot out of his ass

yer turn!