On Wed, 13 Jan 2016 21:08:42 -0500, Barney Fife
wrote:

On 01/13/2016 05:07 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
There once was a man from Morass,
who cleared with a torch of brass.
when he swallowed some gas
flames shot out of his ass

yer turn!
Reminds me of what happened to the guy who owned the cottage next to
our neighbour's cottage at Amberly Beach when I was a kid. The
cottages were down a bank from the road, with the cottage roof just
above road level, and parking at the road. The wife was doing some
painting while the husband was doing some roof repairs. She washed out
the paint brush with coleman fuel and dumped it down the hole in the
outhouse. Husband came down from the roof for a "dump" and a smoke..
He's sitting in the outhouse and lights his cigar, then drops the lit
match down the hole,, between his legs - igniting the vapours in the
pit You can guess the rest........

Then, about a week later he got back up onto the (single plain "shed"
style ) roof to finish his repairs, tying a rope to the back bumper of
the car up by the road, using it to keep from sliding off the roof by
tying it to his belt. The good wife decided to go in to the store at
Point Clark to get fresh bread and milk, and pulls the car out of the
parking lot, launching poor hubby over the roof and into the parking
lot where he had his still tender backside dragged through the gravel
until wifey figured out what had just happened..

He said if he didn't know her better he'd have swaorn she was trying
to collect on his life insurance policy!!

On 1/13/2016 9:08 PM, Barney Fife wrote:
On 01/13/2016 05:07 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
There once was a man from Morass,
who cleared with a torch of brass.
To find what's the marter
He pulled on the starter
[and] flames shot out of his ass

yer turn!


Tell aunt Bee that Stormin says hey.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 1/13/2016 9:42 PM, wrote:
Reminds me of what happened to the guy who owned the cottage next to
our neighbour's cottage at Amberly Beach when I was a kid. The
cottages were down a bank from the road, with the cottage roof just
above road level, and parking at the road. The wife was doing some
painting while the husband was doing some roof repairs. She washed out
the paint brush with coleman fuel and dumped it down the hole in the
outhouse. Husband came down from the roof for a "dump" and a smoke..
He's sitting in the outhouse and lights his cigar, then drops the lit
match down the hole,, between his legs - igniting the vapours in the
pit You can guess the rest........

Then, about a week later he got back up onto the (single plain "shed"
style ) roof to finish his repairs, tying a rope to the back bumper of
the car up by the road, using it to keep from sliding off the roof by
tying it to his belt. The good wife decided to go in to the store at
Point Clark to get fresh bread and milk, and pulls the car out of the
parking lot, launching poor hubby over the roof and into the parking
lot where he had his still tender backside dragged through the gravel
until wifey figured out what had just happened..

He said if he didn't know her better he'd have swaorn she was trying
to collect on his life insurance policy!!


You for real? Sounds like some thing copy and paste off
Snopes, or Truthorfiction.

I've seen Coleman fuel give a bit of a whuff when it's
poured on wood and lit with a match.

Emergency! did that one about the rope on the bumper,
I think it was in season six.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

posted for all of us...



On Wed, 13 Jan 2016 11:58:02 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 1/13/2016 10:08 AM, Eagle wrote:
Don Y explained on 1/12/2016 :
A friend is having trouble with a small (5-7HP) engine.
Not starting. Aside from checking for spark (after
ensuring no "old" fuel present), I can't think of any
easy tests that he can perform...?

Heat up the spark plug and try starting it.

I've never heard that one. What does that do?
Heat it, how? Pot of boiling water on the stove?
Take the plug and heat it with a propane or butane torch. This drives
out any moisture, evaporates any fuel, and removes any oil fouling. -
making the plug more likely to fire if adequate fuel and spark are
available,

Works good for starting flooded engines. I've also on occaision held
the torch over the plug hole and pulled the rope. It sucks the flame
into the cyl and very quicly clears a flooded cyl.. Just stand back,
because it can blow a bright blue flame a few inches out of the hole
too.

Ah, and I thought blue flamers only came out of body orifices.

--
Tekkie

Wade Garrett posted for all of us...



On 1/13/16 4:23 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 13 Jan 2016 11:58:02 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 1/13/2016 10:08 AM, Eagle wrote:
Don Y explained on 1/12/2016 :
A friend is having trouble with a small (5-7HP) engine.
Not starting. Aside from checking for spark (after
ensuring no "old" fuel present), I can't think of any
easy tests that he can perform...?

Heat up the spark plug and try starting it.

I've never heard that one. What does that do?
Heat it, how? Pot of boiling water on the stove?
Take the plug and heat it with a propane or butane torch. This drives
out any moisture, evaporates any fuel, and removes any oil fouling. -
making the plug more likely to fire if adequate fuel and spark are
available,

Works good for starting flooded engines. I've also on occaision held
the torch over the plug hole and pulled the rope. It sucks the flame
into the cyl and very quicly clears a flooded cyl.. Just stand back,
because it can blow a bright blue flame a few inches out of the hole
too.


How do you handle the resulting fire or explosion?

Won't happen, but do what anybody knows dial 9-1-1

--
Tekkie

Tekkie® explained :
posted for all of us...



On Wed, 13 Jan 2016 11:58:02 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 1/13/2016 10:08 AM, Eagle wrote:
Don Y explained on 1/12/2016 :
A friend is having trouble with a small (5-7HP) engine.
Not starting. Aside from checking for spark (after
ensuring no "old" fuel present), I can't think of any
easy tests that he can perform...?

Heat up the spark plug and try starting it.

I've never heard that one. What does that do?
Heat it, how? Pot of boiling water on the stove?
Take the plug and heat it with a propane or butane torch. This drives
out any moisture, evaporates any fuel, and removes any oil fouling. -
making the plug more likely to fire if adequate fuel and spark are
available,

Works good for starting flooded engines. I've also on occaision held
the torch over the plug hole and pulled the rope. It sucks the flame
into the cyl and very quicly clears a flooded cyl.. Just stand back,
because it can blow a bright blue flame a few inches out of the hole
too.

Ah, and I thought blue flamers only came out of body orifices.

Mine is orange. Do I need to adjust the air/fuel mixture some?

On Fri, 15 Jan 2016 12:57:20 -0800, "Eagle"
wrote:

Tekkie® explained :
posted for all of us...



On Wed, 13 Jan 2016 11:58:02 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 1/13/2016 10:08 AM, Eagle wrote:
Don Y explained on 1/12/2016 :
A friend is having trouble with a small (5-7HP) engine.
Not starting. Aside from checking for spark (after
ensuring no "old" fuel present), I can't think of any
easy tests that he can perform...?

Heat up the spark plug and try starting it.

I've never heard that one. What does that do?
Heat it, how? Pot of boiling water on the stove?
Take the plug and heat it with a propane or butane torch. This drives
out any moisture, evaporates any fuel, and removes any oil fouling. -
making the plug more likely to fire if adequate fuel and spark are
available,

Works good for starting flooded engines. I've also on occaision held
the torch over the plug hole and pulled the rope. It sucks the flame
into the cyl and very quicly clears a flooded cyl.. Just stand back,
because it can blow a bright blue flame a few inches out of the hole
too.

Ah, and I thought blue flamers only came out of body orifices.

Mine is orange. Do I need to adjust the air/fuel mixture some?
Only rich guys blow orange flames _ _ _ _

Eagle posted for all of us...



Tekkie® explained :
posted for all of us...



On Wed, 13 Jan 2016 11:58:02 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 1/13/2016 10:08 AM, Eagle wrote:
Don Y explained on 1/12/2016 :
A friend is having trouble with a small (5-7HP) engine.
Not starting. Aside from checking for spark (after
ensuring no "old" fuel present), I can't think of any
easy tests that he can perform...?

Heat up the spark plug and try starting it.

I've never heard that one. What does that do?
Heat it, how? Pot of boiling water on the stove?
Take the plug and heat it with a propane or butane torch. This drives
out any moisture, evaporates any fuel, and removes any oil fouling. -
making the plug more likely to fire if adequate fuel and spark are
available,

Works good for starting flooded engines. I've also on occaision held
the torch over the plug hole and pulled the rope. It sucks the flame
into the cyl and very quicly clears a flooded cyl.. Just stand back,
because it can blow a bright blue flame a few inches out of the hole
too.

Ah, and I thought blue flamers only came out of body orifices.

Mine is orange. Do I need to adjust the air/fuel mixture some?

Yes, more tomato content. Apples will help balance it.

--
Tekkie

It happens that formulated :
On Fri, 15 Jan 2016 12:57:20 -0800, "Eagle"
wrote:

Tekkie® explained :
posted for all of us...



On Wed, 13 Jan 2016 11:58:02 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 1/13/2016 10:08 AM, Eagle wrote:
Don Y explained on 1/12/2016 :
A friend is having trouble with a small (5-7HP) engine.
Not starting. Aside from checking for spark (after
ensuring no "old" fuel present), I can't think of any
easy tests that he can perform...?

Heat up the spark plug and try starting it.

I've never heard that one. What does that do?
Heat it, how? Pot of boiling water on the stove?
Take the plug and heat it with a propane or butane torch. This drives
out any moisture, evaporates any fuel, and removes any oil fouling. -
making the plug more likely to fire if adequate fuel and spark are
available,

Works good for starting flooded engines. I've also on occaision held
the torch over the plug hole and pulled the rope. It sucks the flame
into the cyl and very quicly clears a flooded cyl.. Just stand back,
because it can blow a bright blue flame a few inches out of the hole
too.

Ah, and I thought blue flamers only came out of body orifices.

Mine is orange. Do I need to adjust the air/fuel mixture some?
Only rich guys blow orange flames _ _ _ _

True...

On Friday, January 15, 2016 at 3:55:14 PM UTC-6, Tekkie® wrote:
Eagle posted for all of us...

Tekkie® explained :
posted for all of us...

On Wed, 13 Jan 2016 11:58:02 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 1/13/2016 10:08 AM, Eagle wrote:
Don Y explained on 1/12/2016 :
A friend is having trouble with a small (5-7HP) engine.
Not starting. Aside from checking for spark (after
ensuring no "old" fuel present), I can't think of any
easy tests that he can perform...?

Heat up the spark plug and try starting it.

I've never heard that one. What does that do?
Heat it, how? Pot of boiling water on the stove?
Take the plug and heat it with a propane or butane torch. This drives
out any moisture, evaporates any fuel, and removes any oil fouling. -
making the plug more likely to fire if adequate fuel and spark are
available,

Works good for starting flooded engines. I've also on occaision held
the torch over the plug hole and pulled the rope. It sucks the flame
into the cyl and very quicly clears a flooded cyl.. Just stand back,
because it can blow a bright blue flame a few inches out of the hole
too.

Ah, and I thought blue flamers only came out of body orifices.

Mine is orange. Do I need to adjust the air/fuel mixture some?

Yes, more tomato content. Apples will help balance it.
--
Tekkie

More cowbell. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Bell Monster

On Tue, 12 Jan 2016 22:44:37 -0500, wrote:

On Tue, 12 Jan 2016 20:07:58 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 1/12/2016 12:47 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 12 Jan 2016 12:04:14 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

A friend is having trouble with a small (5-7HP) engine.
Not starting. Aside from checking for spark (after
ensuring no "old" fuel present), I can't think of any
easy tests that he can perform...?

Squirt a little gas right into the carb throat and see if it runs a
few seconds

I wouldn't trust him to do this. If I knew he had a can of "hot shot",
I might suggest it (as that is somewhat self-limiting in terms of
quantity).

P&M because I'm 4 days late answering.

Pulling a plug wire and watching for a spark is relatively easy to
"get right"...

Just don't sqirt the gas in while it is cranking over.

I did that, around 1973. I was in a dark garage working on my
brother's car while he was out of town and I guess I was in a hurry.

So I sprayed ether, tried to start it and check for the spark at the
same time.

As you can guess, it blew up in my face.

Fortunately, I barely moved a muscle and I didn't hit my head on the
hood or the ridge of the hood.

But I did blow off one of the valve covers on his big V-8. The sheet
metal was bent up around 3 or 4 of the bolts holding it on. In one
case the side was ripped out of the hole.

Then I found that they don't sell valve covers even at the dealer. I'd
have had to go to a junk yard, and there are none of those in NYC and
few nearby. And I'd have to find a bad engine that they sell parts
off of.

So I went to a speed shop and bought a pair of chrome valve covers,
but I only put one of them on. He didn't complain.

(I think earlier I'd put, in this '70 Ford convertible, an FM (radio)
converter where the clock would have been if it had had one, and I'd
done such a nice job that some mechanic complimented him on it. So
now I'd damaged his car but I was even.)

I got the cover on and I guess I got the car started before he got
back from his vacation.

I used to have an old gasoline blowtorch I used to squirt gas into
intakes - if it backfired I turned off the valve and there was no
chance of the fire coming back up into the "squirter"

I got my first teaching gig when an instructor poured gas down the
carb of a chevy six in the auto shop and it backfired. He got pretty
badly burned - was off work for 9 months and was still pretty tender
when he returned the following september.

Wow. 9 months.

On Tue, 12 Jan 2016 15:30:17 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 1/12/2016 2:04 PM, Don Y wrote:
A friend is having trouble with a small (5-7HP) engine.
Not starting. Aside from checking for spark (after
ensuring no "old" fuel present), I can't think of any
easy tests that he can perform...?

Remove spark plug, and clean it. Check for "wet"
with gasoline.

Does it start with a spray of ether onto the
air cleaner?

This has always worked on cars, but when I got that motor scooter,
which probably has water in the gas tank, spraying ether into the air
cleaner never reallly made it run. Maybe a little but most of the
time nothing. I wonder why.

Is the oil filled up to the full line on the dip
stick?

On Sat, 16 Jan 2016 04:44:08 -0500, Micky
wrote:

On Tue, 12 Jan 2016 22:44:37 -0500, wrote:

On Tue, 12 Jan 2016 20:07:58 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 1/12/2016 12:47 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 12 Jan 2016 12:04:14 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

A friend is having trouble with a small (5-7HP) engine.
Not starting. Aside from checking for spark (after
ensuring no "old" fuel present), I can't think of any
easy tests that he can perform...?

Squirt a little gas right into the carb throat and see if it runs a
few seconds

I wouldn't trust him to do this. If I knew he had a can of "hot shot",
I might suggest it (as that is somewhat self-limiting in terms of
quantity).

P&M because I'm 4 days late answering.

Pulling a plug wire and watching for a spark is relatively easy to
"get right"...

Just don't sqirt the gas in while it is cranking over.

I did that, around 1973. I was in a dark garage working on my
brother's car while he was out of town and I guess I was in a hurry.

So I sprayed ether, tried to start it and check for the spark at the
same time.

As you can guess, it blew up in my face.

Fortunately, I barely moved a muscle and I didn't hit my head on the
hood or the ridge of the hood.

But I did blow off one of the valve covers on his big V-8. The sheet
metal was bent up around 3 or 4 of the bolts holding it on. In one
case the side was ripped out of the hole.

Then I found that they don't sell valve covers even at the dealer. I'd
have had to go to a junk yard, and there are none of those in NYC and
few nearby. And I'd have to find a bad engine that they sell parts
off of.

So I went to a speed shop and bought a pair of chrome valve covers,
but I only put one of them on. He didn't complain.

(I think earlier I'd put, in this '70 Ford convertible, an FM (radio)
converter where the clock would have been if it had had one, and I'd
done such a nice job that some mechanic complimented him on it. So
now I'd damaged his car but I was even.)

I got the cover on and I guess I got the car started before he got
back from his vacation.

I used to have an old gasoline blowtorch I used to squirt gas into
intakes - if it backfired I turned off the valve and there was no
chance of the fire coming back up into the "squirter"

I got my first teaching gig when an instructor poured gas down the
carb of a chevy six in the auto shop and it backfired. He got pretty
badly burned - was off work for 9 months and was still pretty tender
when he returned the following september.

Wow. 9 months.
The guy who taught me the trade was previously the service manager in
a GM dealership. They had a new truck (637 v6) come in with a leaky
oil pan - one of the baffle spot-welds was burned through. The
mechanic decided to "just braze it shut", - drained the crankcase, lit
the torch, crawled underneeth and proceded to attempt to braze it.
About a minute or so into the job there was "one hell of a bang" and
the mechanic came shooting out from under the truck like a rocket.
To make a long story short they ended up replacing the valley cover,
both valve covers, the timing cover seal, AND the oil pan. They found
the dipstick on the other side of the shop several weeks later, and
never did find the oil filler cap. They suspected it was burried in
the accoustic insulation panels in the ceiling of the shop.

On 1/16/2016 10:10 AM, wrote:
The guy who taught me the trade was previously the service manager in
a GM dealership. They had a new truck (637 v6) come in with a leaky
oil pan - one of the baffle spot-welds was burned through. The
mechanic decided to "just braze it shut", - drained the crankcase, lit
the torch, crawled underneeth and proceded to attempt to braze it.
About a minute or so into the job there was "one hell of a bang" and
the mechanic came shooting out from under the truck like a rocket.
To make a long story short they ended up replacing the valley cover,
both valve covers, the timing cover seal, AND the oil pan. They found
the dipstick on the other side of the shop several weeks later, and
never did find the oil filler cap. They suspected it was burried in
the accoustic insulation panels in the ceiling of the shop.


Sounds like a bit of a surprise. Hope no one was injured.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Sat, 16 Jan 2016 10:14:55 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 1/16/2016 10:10 AM, wrote:
The guy who taught me the trade was previously the service manager in
a GM dealership. They had a new truck (637 v6) come in with a leaky
oil pan - one of the baffle spot-welds was burned through. The
mechanic decided to "just braze it shut", - drained the crankcase, lit
the torch, crawled underneeth and proceded to attempt to braze it.
About a minute or so into the job there was "one hell of a bang" and
the mechanic came shooting out from under the truck like a rocket.
To make a long story short they ended up replacing the valley cover,
both valve covers, the timing cover seal, AND the oil pan. They found
the dipstick on the other side of the shop several weeks later, and
never did find the oil filler cap. They suspected it was burried in
the accoustic insulation panels in the ceiling of the shop.


Sounds like a bit of a surprise. Hope no one was injured.
I think a few pair of undershorts needed changing.

It was remembering what Frank told us that made me flush the Riv with
hot water, then fill the crankcase with CO2 when I had to do the
oilpan repair years later..

On 1/16/2016 2:06 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 16 Jan 2016 10:14:55 -0500, Stormin Mormon

Sounds like a bit of a surprise. Hope no one was injured.
I think a few pair of undershorts needed changing.

It was remembering what Frank told us that made me flush the Riv with
hot water, then fill the crankcase with CO2 when I had to do the
oilpan repair years later..


That sounds like a wise approach. I'd
not want to explode like that.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Sat, 16 Jan 2016 14:15:25 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 1/16/2016 2:06 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 16 Jan 2016 10:14:55 -0500, Stormin Mormon

Sounds like a bit of a surprise. Hope no one was injured.
I think a few pair of undershorts needed changing.

It was remembering what Frank told us that made me flush the Riv with
hot water, then fill the crankcase with CO2 when I had to do the
oilpan repair years later..


That sounds like a wise approach. I'd
not want to explode like that.
It is about a 20 hour job to replace the oil pan on one of those Rivs
- and Ron Day (Martial arts master from Kitchener) had to be in
Chi-town for a match the next day - so no time to do the job "right" -
he hit a re-bar sticking out of a parking curb hidden in the snow,
slicing the oil pan real good.- just as he was ready to leave town. He
knew if anyone in town could get him going it was me.
I ran about 10 gallons of real HOT water through from the carwash bay
while I sent my apprentice to the safety supply to get a 20 lb CO2
extinguisher. By the time he got back I had the patch cut to size and
"tinned" with brass. Put the apprentice under the hood, car on the
hoist, and told him to give it a good blast of CO2 and then a short
blast every half minute or so to keep it full - and I sweat-brazed the
patch on, then brazed the edge all around, tapping the heated edge of
the patch up snug to the pan before filling the edge.

Had Ron back on the road in just over 2 hours. - no flames, no smoke,
no "bang"

On Saturday, January 16, 2016 at 1:06:27 PM UTC-6, wrote:
On Sat, 16 Jan 2016 10:14:55 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 1/16/2016 10:10 AM, wrote:
The guy who taught me the trade was previously the service manager in
a GM dealership. They had a new truck (637 v6) come in with a leaky
oil pan - one of the baffle spot-welds was burned through. The
mechanic decided to "just braze it shut", - drained the crankcase, lit
the torch, crawled underneeth and proceded to attempt to braze it.
About a minute or so into the job there was "one hell of a bang" and
the mechanic came shooting out from under the truck like a rocket.
To make a long story short they ended up replacing the valley cover,
both valve covers, the timing cover seal, AND the oil pan. They found
the dipstick on the other side of the shop several weeks later, and
never did find the oil filler cap. They suspected it was burried in
the accoustic insulation panels in the ceiling of the shop.


Sounds like a bit of a surprise. Hope no one was injured.
I think a few pair of undershorts needed changing.

It was remembering what Frank told us that made me flush the Riv with
hot water, then fill the crankcase with CO2 when I had to do the
oilpan repair years later..

I know/knew a welder who repaired tanker trucks for the airport and he had a compressed air powered fume evacuator to get the combustible fumes out of the tank before doing any welding. I don't know if he used inert gas to fill the tank or just left the evacuator running while welding. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Fume Monster

On Saturday, January 16, 2016 at 3:26:20 PM UTC-6, wrote:
On Sat, 16 Jan 2016 14:15:25 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 1/16/2016 2:06 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 16 Jan 2016 10:14:55 -0500, Stormin Mormon

Sounds like a bit of a surprise. Hope no one was injured.
I think a few pair of undershorts needed changing.

It was remembering what Frank told us that made me flush the Riv with
hot water, then fill the crankcase with CO2 when I had to do the
oilpan repair years later..


That sounds like a wise approach. I'd
not want to explode like that.
It is about a 20 hour job to replace the oil pan on one of those Rivs
- and Ron Day (Martial arts master from Kitchener) had to be in
Chi-town for a match the next day - so no time to do the job "right" -
he hit a re-bar sticking out of a parking curb hidden in the snow,
slicing the oil pan real good.- just as he was ready to leave town. He
knew if anyone in town could get him going it was me.
I ran about 10 gallons of real HOT water through from the carwash bay
while I sent my apprentice to the safety supply to get a 20 lb CO2
extinguisher. By the time he got back I had the patch cut to size and
"tinned" with brass. Put the apprentice under the hood, car on the
hoist, and told him to give it a good blast of CO2 and then a short
blast every half minute or so to keep it full - and I sweat-brazed the
patch on, then brazed the edge all around, tapping the heated edge of
the patch up snug to the pan before filling the edge.

Had Ron back on the road in just over 2 hours. - no flames, no smoke,
no "bang"

Cool!(no pun) ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Pan Monster

On Sun, 17 Jan 2016 04:32:28 -0800 (PST), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Saturday, January 16, 2016 at 1:06:27 PM UTC-6, wrote:
On Sat, 16 Jan 2016 10:14:55 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 1/16/2016 10:10 AM, wrote:
The guy who taught me the trade was previously the service manager in
a GM dealership. They had a new truck (637 v6) come in with a leaky
oil pan - one of the baffle spot-welds was burned through. The
mechanic decided to "just braze it shut", - drained the crankcase, lit
the torch, crawled underneeth and proceded to attempt to braze it.
About a minute or so into the job there was "one hell of a bang" and
the mechanic came shooting out from under the truck like a rocket.
To make a long story short they ended up replacing the valley cover,
both valve covers, the timing cover seal, AND the oil pan. They found
the dipstick on the other side of the shop several weeks later, and
never did find the oil filler cap. They suspected it was burried in
the accoustic insulation panels in the ceiling of the shop.


Sounds like a bit of a surprise. Hope no one was injured.
I think a few pair of undershorts needed changing.

It was remembering what Frank told us that made me flush the Riv with
hot water, then fill the crankcase with CO2 when I had to do the
oilpan repair years later..

I know/knew a welder who repaired tanker trucks for the airport and he had a compressed air powered fume evacuator to get the combustible fumes out of the tank before doing any welding. I don't know if he used inert gas to fill the tank or just left the evacuator running while welding. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Fume Monster
I know a guy used to fix gas tanks by running car exhaust into them
for 15 minutes before welding, and while welding.

Know another guy (former high-school classmate) who swore filling the
tank with water was the way to do it - untill one day he was
attempting to braze a tank (which took LOTS of heat because the tank
was full of water) when all of a sudden the tank started to move -
then hit him in the chest as it emptied the water out through the
filler in one big "bellch" and bulged the tank beyond repair. I guess
there was enough gas trapped in a rusty corner to combine with oxygen
freed by heating the rust? that it lit. It sure wasn't because he
boiled the water - - -

On Sunday, January 17, 2016 at 3:20:24 PM UTC-6, wrote:
On Sun, 17 Jan 2016 04:32:28 -0800 (PST), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Saturday, January 16, 2016 at 1:06:27 PM UTC-6, wrote:
On Sat, 16 Jan 2016 10:14:55 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 1/16/2016 10:10 AM, wrote:
The guy who taught me the trade was previously the service manager in
a GM dealership. They had a new truck (637 v6) come in with a leaky
oil pan - one of the baffle spot-welds was burned through. The
mechanic decided to "just braze it shut", - drained the crankcase, lit
the torch, crawled underneeth and proceded to attempt to braze it.
About a minute or so into the job there was "one hell of a bang" and
the mechanic came shooting out from under the truck like a rocket.
To make a long story short they ended up replacing the valley cover,
both valve covers, the timing cover seal, AND the oil pan. They found
the dipstick on the other side of the shop several weeks later, and
never did find the oil filler cap. They suspected it was burried in
the accoustic insulation panels in the ceiling of the shop.


Sounds like a bit of a surprise. Hope no one was injured.
I think a few pair of undershorts needed changing.

It was remembering what Frank told us that made me flush the Riv with
hot water, then fill the crankcase with CO2 when I had to do the
oilpan repair years later..

I know/knew a welder who repaired tanker trucks for the airport and he had a compressed air powered fume evacuator to get the combustible fumes out of the tank before doing any welding. I don't know if he used inert gas to fill the tank or just left the evacuator running while welding. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Fume Monster
I know a guy used to fix gas tanks by running car exhaust into them
for 15 minutes before welding, and while welding.

Know another guy (former high-school classmate) who swore filling the
tank with water was the way to do it - untill one day he was
attempting to braze a tank (which took LOTS of heat because the tank
was full of water) when all of a sudden the tank started to move -
then hit him in the chest as it emptied the water out through the
filler in one big "bellch" and bulged the tank beyond repair. I guess
there was enough gas trapped in a rusty corner to combine with oxygen
freed by heating the rust? that it lit. It sure wasn't because he
boiled the water - - -

When CO burns it becomes CO2 but any leftover fuel mixed with the CO in engine exhaust could explode under the right circumstances. I have a couple of size N nitrogen cylinders loaned out to a friend that I've used to inject nitrogen when brazing copper refrigeration lines and any tank that had a possibly combustible material in it. I'd turn the flow on high to blow the air out then leave a low flow running while brazing. Nitrogen is very handy to have around any shop. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Fume Monster

"Uncle Monster" wrote in message
...
When CO burns it becomes CO2 but any leftover fuel mixed with the CO in
engine exhaust could explode under the right circumstances. I have a
couple of size N nitrogen cylinders loaned out to a friend that I've used
to inject nitrogen when brazing copper refrigeration lines and any tank
that had a possibly combustible material in it. I'd turn the flow on high
to blow the air out then leave a low flow running while brazing. Nitrogen
is very handy to have around any shop. ^_^

Nitrogen is used in refrigeration lines to keep the copper from forming
copper oxide and flaking off and stopping up the system. If the system has
been in use some refrigerants will produce phosgrene gas when heated and
that isa poison gas. Probably no enough left in the system to cause a
problem by the time to braze the pipes.

"Ralph Mowery" wrote in message

If the system has been in use some refrigerants will produce
phosgrene gas when heated and that isa poison gas.

As long as we're having an orgy of spelling corrections, it's actually

Phosgene: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phosgene

Phosgene is the chemical compound with the formula COCl2. This colorless
gas gained infamy as a chemical weapon during World War I where it was
responsible for about 85% of the 100,000 deaths caused by chemical weapons.
.. . Its high toxicity arises from the action of the phosgene on the proteins
in the pulmonary alveoli, the site of gas exchange: their damage disrupts
the blood-air barrier, causing suffocation. . . anecdotal reports suggest
that numerous refrigeration technicians suffered the effects of phosgene
poisoning due to their ignorance of the toxicity of phosgene, produced
during older flame-based leak detection tests.

Not related in any way to phospene or phospine - (What, DerbyDad, no
phospheen? (-: )

--
Bobby G.

posted for all of us...



On Sat, 16 Jan 2016 04:44:08 -0500, Micky
wrote:

On Tue, 12 Jan 2016 22:44:37 -0500, wrote:

On Tue, 12 Jan 2016 20:07:58 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 1/12/2016 12:47 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 12 Jan 2016 12:04:14 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

A friend is having trouble with a small (5-7HP) engine.
Not starting. Aside from checking for spark (after
ensuring no "old" fuel present), I can't think of any
easy tests that he can perform...?

Squirt a little gas right into the carb throat and see if it runs a
few seconds

I wouldn't trust him to do this. If I knew he had a can of "hot shot",
I might suggest it (as that is somewhat self-limiting in terms of
quantity).

P&M because I'm 4 days late answering.

Pulling a plug wire and watching for a spark is relatively easy to
"get right"...

Just don't sqirt the gas in while it is cranking over.

I did that, around 1973. I was in a dark garage working on my
brother's car while he was out of town and I guess I was in a hurry.

So I sprayed ether, tried to start it and check for the spark at the
same time.

As you can guess, it blew up in my face.

Fortunately, I barely moved a muscle and I didn't hit my head on the
hood or the ridge of the hood.

But I did blow off one of the valve covers on his big V-8. The sheet
metal was bent up around 3 or 4 of the bolts holding it on. In one
case the side was ripped out of the hole.

Then I found that they don't sell valve covers even at the dealer. I'd
have had to go to a junk yard, and there are none of those in NYC and
few nearby. And I'd have to find a bad engine that they sell parts
off of.

So I went to a speed shop and bought a pair of chrome valve covers,
but I only put one of them on. He didn't complain.

(I think earlier I'd put, in this '70 Ford convertible, an FM (radio)
converter where the clock would have been if it had had one, and I'd
done such a nice job that some mechanic complimented him on it. So
now I'd damaged his car but I was even.)

I got the cover on and I guess I got the car started before he got
back from his vacation.

I used to have an old gasoline blowtorch I used to squirt gas into
intakes - if it backfired I turned off the valve and there was no
chance of the fire coming back up into the "squirter"

I got my first teaching gig when an instructor poured gas down the
carb of a chevy six in the auto shop and it backfired. He got pretty
badly burned - was off work for 9 months and was still pretty tender
when he returned the following september.

Wow. 9 months.
The guy who taught me the trade was previously the service manager in
a GM dealership. They had a new truck (637 v6) come in with a leaky

Fire in the hole!

--
Tekkie

Uncle Monster posted for all of us...



On Saturday, January 16, 2016 at 1:06:27 PM UTC-6, wrote:
On Sat, 16 Jan 2016 10:14:55 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 1/16/2016 10:10 AM, wrote:
The guy who taught me the trade was previously the service manager in
a GM dealership. They had a new truck (637 v6) come in with a leaky
oil pan - one of the baffle spot-welds was burned through. The
mechanic decided to "just braze it shut", - drained the crankcase, lit
the torch, crawled underneeth and proceded to attempt to braze it.
About a minute or so into the job there was "one hell of a bang" and
the mechanic came shooting out from under the truck like a rocket.
To make a long story short they ended up replacing the valley cover,
both valve covers, the timing cover seal, AND the oil pan. They found
the dipstick on the other side of the shop several weeks later, and
never did find the oil filler cap. They suspected it was burried in
the accoustic insulation panels in the ceiling of the shop.


Sounds like a bit of a surprise. Hope no one was injured.
I think a few pair of undershorts needed changing.

It was remembering what Frank told us that made me flush the Riv with
hot water, then fill the crankcase with CO2 when I had to do the
oilpan repair years later..

I know/knew a welder who repaired tanker trucks for the airport and he had a compressed air powered fume evacuator to get the combustible fumes out of the tank before doing any welding. I don't know if he used inert gas to fill the tank or just left the evacuator running while welding. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Fume Monster

He would have to use some kind of SCBA.

--
Tekkie

On Monday, January 18, 2016 at 9:09:34 AM UTC-6, Ralph Mowery wrote:
"Uncle Monster" wrote in message
...
When CO burns it becomes CO2 but any leftover fuel mixed with the CO in
engine exhaust could explode under the right circumstances. I have a
couple of size N nitrogen cylinders loaned out to a friend that I've used
to inject nitrogen when brazing copper refrigeration lines and any tank
that had a possibly combustible material in it. I'd turn the flow on high
to blow the air out then leave a low flow running while brazing. Nitrogen
is very handy to have around any shop. ^_^

Nitrogen is used in refrigeration lines to keep the copper from forming
copper oxide and flaking off and stopping up the system. If the system has
been in use some refrigerants will produce phosgrene gas when heated and
that isa poison gas. Probably no enough left in the system to cause a
problem by the time to braze the pipes.

I could always tell if there was refrigerant in the line by the color change of the torch flame. Another thing about refrigerant being subjected to high heat is when a compressor burns out. You let a little refrigerant escape from the low side and just like you learned in chemistry class, fan the gas toward your face with your hand so you can check the odor. If it burns the hair out of your nose, you will know that you have a compressor burn out.

I'd blow out the whole refrigeration system with nitrogen before doing anything especially brazing and installing the dryers then after finishing with the repair, do a triple vacuum. It involves pulling a vacuum after first blowing out the system with nitrogen then break the vacuum with nitrogen, blow it through the system again, vacuum that out and the third vacuum is broken with refrigerant. I'd let the vacuum pull liquid refrigerant into the high side until I got most of it into the system by weight then after the system pressures stabilized, start it up and feed refrigerant into the low side as vapor or liquid as required by characteristics of the refrigerant. This is the fastest way to get a system filled and running after spending the extra time preparing it. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Vacuum Monster

On Monday, January 18, 2016 at 12:40:00 PM UTC-6, Tekkie® wrote:
Uncle Monster posted for all of us...



On Saturday, January 16, 2016 at 1:06:27 PM UTC-6, wrote:
On Sat, 16 Jan 2016 10:14:55 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 1/16/2016 10:10 AM, wrote:
The guy who taught me the trade was previously the service manager in
a GM dealership. They had a new truck (637 v6) come in with a leaky
oil pan - one of the baffle spot-welds was burned through. The
mechanic decided to "just braze it shut", - drained the crankcase, lit
the torch, crawled underneeth and proceded to attempt to braze it.
About a minute or so into the job there was "one hell of a bang" and
the mechanic came shooting out from under the truck like a rocket.
To make a long story short they ended up replacing the valley cover,
both valve covers, the timing cover seal, AND the oil pan. They found
the dipstick on the other side of the shop several weeks later, and
never did find the oil filler cap. They suspected it was burried in
the accoustic insulation panels in the ceiling of the shop.


Sounds like a bit of a surprise. Hope no one was injured.
I think a few pair of undershorts needed changing.

It was remembering what Frank told us that made me flush the Riv with
hot water, then fill the crankcase with CO2 when I had to do the
oilpan repair years later..

I know/knew a welder who repaired tanker trucks for the airport and he had a compressed air powered fume evacuator to get the combustible fumes out of the tank before doing any welding. I don't know if he used inert gas to fill the tank or just left the evacuator running while welding. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Fume Monster

He would have to use some kind of SCBA.
--
Tekkie

It was actually a venturi type of rig that compressed air blew through to pull the air in the open tank with it. I found it, it's a pneumatic blower. ^_^

http://airsystems.com/downloads/2012...0Page%2050.pdf

http://www.amazon.com/Air-Systems-AS.../dp/B003XIHXNS

[8~{} Uncle Pneumatic Monster