I've got a Chevrolet van that doesn't run when
it's wet out. Earlier mechanic had done some
diagnosis and looking around in the wiring
harness that goes from the engine to the computer.

Makes me wonder if there is water getting in
to the wiring harness, and that's what makes
it not run when it's wet.

What's a good way to seal this, to keep water
out? Duck tape? Scotch 33 electrical?


--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Friday, October 9, 2015 at 9:53:48 AM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I've got a Chevrolet van that doesn't run when
it's wet out. Earlier mechanic had done some
diagnosis and looking around in the wiring
harness that goes from the engine to the computer.

Makes me wonder if there is water getting in
to the wiring harness, and that's what makes
it not run when it's wet.

What's a good way to seal this, to keep water
out? Duck tape? Scotch 33 electrical?
--
.
What model van is it. Would it be a Chevy Venture? ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Van Monster

On Friday, October 9, 2015 at 7:53:48 AM UTC-7, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I've got a Chevrolet van that doesn't run when
it's wet out. Earlier mechanic had done some
diagnosis and looking around in the wiring
harness that goes from the engine to the computer.

Makes me wonder if there is water getting in
to the wiring harness, and that's what makes
it not run when it's wet.

What's a good way to seal this, to keep water
out? Duck tape? Scotch 33 electrical?
Christopher A. Young


See if there's any condensation inside the distributor cap (if you even have one)

On 10/9/2015 10:57 AM, Uncle Monster wrote:
On Friday, October 9, 2015 at 9:53:48 AM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:
What's a good way to seal this, to keep water
out? Duck tape? Scotch 33 electrical?
--
.
What model van is it. Would it be a Chevy Venture? ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Van Monster


G20 Tradesman.


-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 10/9/2015 11:06 AM, Shade Tree Guy wrote:
What's a good way to seal this, to keep water
out? Duck tape? Scotch 33 electrical?
Christopher A. Young


See if there's any condensation inside the
distributor cap (if you even have one)


Yes, has one. Might be dry weather tomorrow.
I'll see if it starts. If it starts, I'll
spray water on things till I find what
makes it quit.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Friday, October 9, 2015 at 10:53:48 AM UTC-4, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I've got a Chevrolet van that doesn't run when
it's wet out. Earlier mechanic had done some
diagnosis and looking around in the wiring
harness that goes from the engine to the computer.

Makes me wonder if there is water getting in
to the wiring harness, and that's what makes
it not run when it's wet.

What's a good way to seal this, to keep water
out? Duck tape? Scotch 33 electrical?


I don't know that I would be looking at the harness itself as much as I
would be looking at connectors. Even if water was getting into the harness,
each individual wire is (should be) insulated.

However, if there *is* exposed wire(s) in the harness, I'd be more concerned
with fixing the root cause than just keeping the water out. If the
insulation is breaking down due to heat or age, sealing the harness may
help slow that down, but having exposed wires inside the harness is
never a good thing.

I don't know if this will happen to your van, but this vehicle was at the
dealer, waiting in line to be brought into the shop to have the alternator
changed when the alternator caught on fire. I guess he waited just a few
hours (minutes?) too long.

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps3egssrdt.jpg

Over $7000 to repair the damage. The engine will have to be pulled in
order to R&R some of the stuff that was impacted by the fire.

On Friday, October 9, 2015 at 8:12:55 AM UTC-7, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 10/9/2015 11:06 AM, Shade Tree Guy wrote:
What's a good way to seal this, to keep water
out? Duck tape? Scotch 33 electrical?
Christopher A. Young


See if there's any condensation inside the
distributor cap (if you even have one)


Yes, has one. Might be dry weather tomorrow.
I'll see if it starts. If it starts, I'll
spray water on things till I find what
makes it quit.

-
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
. www.lds.org
.
.

Also check for any corrosion/crud on the coil post or inside the wires.That's why they give you a bit of dielectric goop with new wires
Spent months tracking down a miss in the S-10. finally discovered the prob was a loose coil wire connector. (crimped it a bit and no miss)

In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 9 Oct 2015 10:53:50 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

I've got a Chevrolet van that doesn't run when

What doesn't run about it? Does it crank? Normal speed of cranking?

Does it ignite at all?

If it turns over and there is no ignition, the usual source is wet spark
plug wires; wet distributor cap, inside or out; or wet ignition coil.

Shops don't want to spend forever on the repair, or worse yet, give it
back to the customer and have it not work again, so they just replace
all three, and the rotor too.

But if you're doing it yourself, and you don't absolutely have to start
the van on a given wet day, you can replace one thing at a time. Buy
the parts at a consumer parts store, where you can (check on this)
return an unused distributor cap or coil. Pro stores don't like
returns on electrical parts, and Pep Boys etc. might not allow it
either.

It's also possible that 2 or 3 things contribute to the problem. I
found it hard to believe the coil could be wet inside, until after
replacing the wires, I replaced a coil and everything was good again,
even in wet weather.

Yeah, on a dry day I'd take the cap off and let it dry out in there, but
the problem is more likely the spark plug wires if they are 6 years old
or more. I guess the rubber covering is porous. Replace them one wire
at a time, both ends, so you don't mix up which one goes where.

it's wet out. Earlier mechanic had done some
diagnosis and looking around in the wiring
harness that goes from the engine to the computer.

Makes me wonder if there is water getting in
to the wiring harness, and that's what makes
it not run when it's wet.

What's a good way to seal this, to keep water
out? Duck tape? Scotch 33 electrical?

On Friday, October 9, 2015 at 10:53:48 AM UTC-4, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I've got a Chevrolet van that doesn't run when
it's wet out. Earlier mechanic had done some
diagnosis and looking around in the wiring
harness that goes from the engine to the computer.

Makes me wonder if there is water getting in
to the wiring harness, and that's what makes
it not run when it's wet.

What's a good way to seal this, to keep water
out? Duck tape? Scotch 33 electrical?


--
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
. www.lds.org
.
.

start by performing in the old days was a tune up.

new sparkplugs, new wires, new cap and rotor. do a oil change. look over everything, probably good to replace the coil.

now while it may not fix it you just did some necessary maintence and elminated a ton of possible causes.

probably good to check the computer for codes.

i had a van that started running rough and hard to start.

finally traced to a failing fuel pump. it got so bad it barely ran. fuel pressure was way too low

Stormin Mormon wrote:
I've got a Chevrolet van that doesn't run when
it's wet out. Earlier mechanic had done some
diagnosis and looking around in the wiring
harness that goes from the engine to the computer.

Makes me wonder if there is water getting in
to the wiring harness, and that's what makes
it not run when it's wet.

What's a good way to seal this, to keep water
out? Duck tape? Scotch 33 electrical?



Probably condensation under the distributor cap. VERY likely if the
vehicle isn't driven daily. The moisture burns off when you drive them
daily. Pop the cap off, wipe it out with a towel with some silicone on
it. Then spray the wires down with silicone. If you think it's in the
harness you can spray the back of the plugs and wiring with clear enamel
paint. It will seal the wiring.


--
Steve W.

On Fri, 9 Oct 2015 11:12:57 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

See if there's any condensation inside the
distributor cap (if you even have one)


Yes, has one. Might be dry weather tomorrow.
I'll see if it starts. If it starts, I'll
spray water on things till I find what
makes it quit.

I had an old Chevy Impala (not by choice but necessity). When it
rained the engine would act the fool, run rough, etc. Late one night
in a rain storm, it start running bad.

Opened the hood and could see blue sparks fly around. Looked like a
Christmas tree lighting up.

The plug wires insulation were cracked and needed replacement.

If the distributor cap is getting wet inside, dry it out and using
plumber's putty to seal it. Same if you have a coil. As kids we could
make a Model A Ford run in deep water by sealing the cap and coil
wires

On Friday, October 9, 2015 at 9:53:48 AM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I've got a Chevrolet van that doesn't run when
it's wet out. Earlier mechanic had done some
diagnosis and looking around in the wiring
harness that goes from the engine to the computer.

Makes me wonder if there is water getting in
to the wiring harness, and that's what makes
it not run when it's wet.

What's a good way to seal this, to keep water
out? Duck tape? Scotch 33 electrical?
--
.

You actually have a problem that can be helped with Water Displacement Formula # 40. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle WD-40 Monster

On 10/9/2015 11:12 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Yes, has one. Might be dry weather tomorrow.
I'll see if it starts. If it starts, I'll
spray water on things till I find what
makes it quit.


Friday dinner time. Just got home. Van started right
up. I crawled under and taped the wiring harness
under the drivers seat. Now, it won't start. Aparently,
I shifted one of the bypass wires, and opened a connection.
Tomorrow, I'll go cut off some tape, try to figure out
where the new wires go. Reinforce the connections for
the new wire. See if it starts. Put more tape on to
replace the tape I cut off. Sigh.

Well, at least I have a rough idea where is the problem.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 10/9/2015 11:29 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

I don't know that I would be looking at the harness itself as much as I
would be looking at connectors. Even if water was getting into the harness,
each individual wire is (should be) insulated.

However, if there *is* exposed wire(s) in the harness, I'd be more concerned
with fixing the root cause than just keeping the water out. If the
insulation is breaking down due to heat or age, sealing the harness may
help slow that down, but having exposed wires inside the harness is
never a good thing.


The retired mechanic across the street isn't
feeling well tonight. But maybe tomorrow he
can come over and help me search out the bad
connection. Reinforce the bad spot, and then
wrap it again. No plan survives the first
challenge, of course. I'm hoping for good. The
rest of the van works. One silly connection.

First time it did this, was in the shop for
nine days.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 10/9/2015 11:30 AM, Shade Tree Guy wrote:

Also check for any corrosion/crud on the coil post or inside the wires.That's why they give you a bit of dielectric goop with new wires
Spent months tracking down a miss in the S-10. finally discovered the prob was a loose coil wire connector. (crimped it a bit and no miss)


Thanks, that real world wisdom is priceless.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Fri, 9 Oct 2015 10:53:50 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

I've got a Chevrolet van that doesn't run when
it's wet out. Earlier mechanic had done some
diagnosis and looking around in the wiring
harness that goes from the engine to the computer.

Makes me wonder if there is water getting in
to the wiring harness, and that's what makes
it not run when it's wet.

What's a good way to seal this, to keep water
out? Duck tape? Scotch 33 electrical?
First things first - good spark plug wires. You have the potential
for 60,000 volts there - that voltage will leak theough anything that
is not perfectly waterproof. New wires with silicone dialectric past
in the coil boots and the plug boots (and distributor boots if it
still has a distributer)
12 volt wires don't leak appreciably through insulation that is wet or
dry. If they are going to short wet, they will short dry too.
Low voltage (sensor) connections are working on 0-5 volts - so again,
moisture won't short them. If anything, take the connectors apart and
clean them. A bit of dialectric grease hear usually won't do any harm
either and will keep moisture from getting in and corroding
connections. Moisture on low voltage stuff is more likely to cause
corrosion and open circuits than shorts. The new plugs we've been
telling you to put in for the last 2 years will help too as the wide
gap and rounded electrodes of worn plugs requires a lot higher voltage
to jump the gap. A good sharp well gapped plug will hold your
secondary voltage down around 45000 volts - a lot easier to keep in
your wires. Also make sure the cap, if a distributor model, and / or
the coil towers are prisinely clean..

Thes steps will make even a 6 volt chrysler flathead start with a
water hose pointed at it.

On 10/9/2015 12:15 PM, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 9 Oct 2015 10:53:50 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

I've got a Chevrolet van that doesn't run when

What doesn't run about it? Does it crank? Normal speed of cranking?

CY: Cranks but doesn't start.

Does it ignite at all?

CY: Intemittent. No start this AM. Yes start this afternoon. No start
after I finished taping up some wiring harness.

If it turns over and there is no ignition, the usual source is wet spark
plug wires; wet distributor cap, inside or out; or wet ignition coil.

CY: I suspect wet wiring harness under drivers seat.


Shops don't want to spend forever on the repair, or worse yet, give it
back to the customer and have it not work again, so they just replace
all three, and the rotor too.

But if you're doing it yourself, and you don't absolutely have to start
the van on a given wet day, you can replace one thing at a time. Buy
the parts at a consumer parts store, where you can (check on this)
return an unused distributor cap or coil. Pro stores don't like
returns on electrical parts, and Pep Boys etc. might not allow it
either.


CY: I think the problem is localized. What you write
is correct, and thank you.

It's also possible that 2 or 3 things contribute to the problem. I
found it hard to believe the coil could be wet inside, until after
replacing the wires, I replaced a coil and everything was good again,
even in wet weather.

CY: I've had coils not work when wet.


Yeah, on a dry day I'd take the cap off and let it dry out in there, but
the problem is more likely the spark plug wires if they are 6 years old
or more. I guess the rubber covering is porous. Replace them one wire
at a time, both ends, so you don't mix up which one goes where.

On 10/9/2015 12:49 PM, bob haller wrote:

i had a van that started running rough and hard to start.

finally traced to a failing fuel pump. it got so bad it barely ran. fuel pressure was way too low


Mine traces out to the wiring harness under
the drivers seat. Got to pull that apart,
tomorrow.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 10/9/2015 2:44 PM, Uncle Monster wrote:
You actually have a problem that can be helped with Water Displacement Formula # 40. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle WD-40 Monster


I did think of that. After the tape wrap, the
vehicle doesn't start or run at all. Need to
cut off some of the tape, and try to find the
new wire splice that's not connected.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Fri, 9 Oct 2015 11:12:57 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 10/9/2015 11:06 AM, Shade Tree Guy wrote:
What's a good way to seal this, to keep water
out? Duck tape? Scotch 33 electrical?
Christopher A. Young


See if there's any condensation inside the
distributor cap (if you even have one)


Yes, has one. Might be dry weather tomorrow.
I'll see if it starts. If it starts, I'll
spray water on things till I find what
makes it quit.

-
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
. www.lds.org
.
.
On a SBC of that vintage, make sure you have a GOOD sistributor cap
and rotor - along with the good wires - and be certain your coil is
clean and has no cracks. The good caps are the glossy black or light
beige ones, not the crappy pourous phenolic brown ones. or black ones
with an open rough surface on the inside.

You don't want to use any sealers as all they do is hols water in

On Fri, 9 Oct 2015 18:25:23 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 10/9/2015 12:49 PM, bob haller wrote:

i had a van that started running rough and hard to start.

finally traced to a failing fuel pump. it got so bad it barely ran. fuel pressure was way too low


Mine traces out to the wiring harness under
the drivers seat. Got to pull that apart,
tomorrow.

-
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
. www.lds.org
.
.
So when it fails to start you have no fuel pressure - most likely.
When you go to start the vehicle, take off the gas cap. Turn on the
key and listen at the filler. You should hear the pump run for about 3
seconds. Then when cranking it should run again.. If you can get your
hands on an EFI fuel pressure guage stick it on the service schrader
valve on the injector log and watch the pressure.

On Fri, 9 Oct 2015 18:26:56 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 10/9/2015 2:44 PM, Uncle Monster wrote:
You actually have a problem that can be helped with Water Displacement Formula # 40. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle WD-40 Monster


I did think of that. After the tape wrap, the
vehicle doesn't start or run at all. Need to
cut off some of the tape, and try to find the
new wire splice that's not connected.

-
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
. www.lds.org
.
.
Another thing to do is when it doesn't start, check for spark.
Sounding more like it might possibly be a fuel pressure problem -
particularly when you talk about patched wiring harness "under the
seat" on a G. The wires under the seat go BACK - the fuel pump is
about the only thing electrical behind the seat that can cause a
no-start.

On 10/9/2015 7:00 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 9 Oct 2015 18:25:23 -0400, Stormin Mormon

Mine traces out to the wiring harness under
the drivers seat. Got to pull that apart,
tomorrow.

So when it fails to start you have no fuel pressure - most likely.
When you go to start the vehicle, take off the gas cap. Turn on the
key and listen at the filler. You should hear the pump run for about 3
seconds. Then when cranking it should run again.. If you can get your
hands on an EFI fuel pressure guage stick it on the service schrader
valve on the injector log and watch the pressure.


I didn't try it on ether. But, my gut sense is
no fire from the ignition system. Either way,
I'm going to hope for dry weather tomorrow
(light rain, now) and cut some tape off. Try to
find the bad splice connection.

Keep hoping that if I actually find the problem,
the van will be OK for a while. I think the splice
for the recent wire is the problem.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Fri, 9 Oct 2015 08:06:39 -0700 (PDT), Shade Tree Guy
wrote:

I've got a Chevrolet van that doesn't run when
it's wet out. Earlier mechanic had done some
diagnosis and looking around in the wiring
harness that goes from the engine to the computer.

Makes me wonder if there is water getting in
to the wiring harness, and that's what makes
it not run when it's wet.

What's a good way to seal this, to keep water
out? Duck tape? Scotch 33 electrical?
Christopher A. Young

Jesus will fix the problem if you ask him !!!
But be prepared to pay a huge repair bill.
He aint cheap.

On Friday, October 9, 2015 at 6:24:10 PM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 10/9/2015 7:00 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 9 Oct 2015 18:25:23 -0400, Stormin Mormon

Mine traces out to the wiring harness under
the drivers seat. Got to pull that apart,
tomorrow.

So when it fails to start you have no fuel pressure - most likely.
When you go to start the vehicle, take off the gas cap. Turn on the
key and listen at the filler. You should hear the pump run for about 3
seconds. Then when cranking it should run again.. If you can get your
hands on an EFI fuel pressure guage stick it on the service schrader
valve on the injector log and watch the pressure.


I didn't try it on ether. But, my gut sense is
no fire from the ignition system. Either way,
I'm going to hope for dry weather tomorrow
(light rain, now) and cut some tape off. Try to
find the bad splice connection.

Keep hoping that if I actually find the problem,
the van will be OK for a while. I think the splice
for the recent wire is the problem.
-
.

Me and my brother had a problem with an 89 Dodge van. It would start and run intermittently depending on the temperature of the engine. Finally read the computer code by turning the ignition switch on and off 3 times to get the computer to flash a trouble code from the check engine light. It indicated a loss of signal from the distributor. It turned out to be a thermal intermittent failure of the Hall Effect sensor in the distributor. After a new sensor was installed 20 years ago, the engine has always started reliably and is still going strong. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Van Monster

On 10/09/2015 04:18 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Well, at least I have a rough idea where is the problem.

Somewhere around the fuel pump?

On 10/10/2015 12:08 AM, rbowman wrote:
On 10/09/2015 04:18 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Well, at least I have a rough idea where is the problem.

Somewhere around the fuel pump?

About six or eight feet forward of the fuel pump.

Wiring harness under the drivers seat. When the
last guy found a bad wire and ran a bypass, he
didn't do a good job of the connection and the
necessary water proofing.

I violated one of the big rules: When one vehicle
(Blazer fuel pump) is needing parts, don't work on
the other one. Even some thing simple as tape
wrapping wires. Now instead of a van that runs when
it's dry, it doesn't run at all. I'm worse off.


-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 10/9/2015 11:38 PM, Uncle Monster wrote:
It indicated a loss of signal from the distributor. It turned out to be a thermal intermittent failure of the Hall Effect sensor in the distributor. After a new sensor was installed 20 years ago, the engine has always started reliably and is still going strong. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Van Monster


Almost 24 hours later, and no one has answered my
question. Diversions, anecdotes, and drift.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

My first wrap was Scotch 33 electrical tape. After
I pull all that off, repair the bad connection,
and confirm the van runs, I may use Scotch 33
again. Seems like fairly good stuff. Might use a
couple nylon tie wraps over the tape.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Saturday, October 10, 2015 at 8:44:26 AM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 10/9/2015 11:38 PM, Uncle Monster wrote:
It indicated a loss of signal from the distributor. It turned out to be a thermal intermittent failure of the Hall Effect sensor in the distributor. After a new sensor was installed 20 years ago, the engine has always started reliably and is still going strong. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Van Monster


Almost 24 hours later, and no one has answered my
question. Diversions, anecdotes, and drift.
-
.

I knew a guy with a Chevy Venture van that had problems because Chevy didn't spend a few more cents to seal the splices in the wiring harness. The wiring harnessing under the sill plates in the doors got wet when he left the windows open and the splices which were wrapped with cheap electrical tape, corroded and came apart. Any connectors corroded until they no longer made a reliable connection. Do you have a wiring harness that goes under the sill plates in your van's doors? o_O

[8~{} Uncle Van Monster

On 10/9/2015 10:53 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:

What's a good way to seal this, to keep water
out? Duck tape? Scotch 33 electrical?


Saturday. Went under van. I was tracing out a
blue wire, Spirit said to look at the tan one.
The tan wire had broken next to a crimp butt
connector. I cut that out, and used a wire
nut to put the wire back together. Try the
key, van starts up nicely.

Several layers of Scotch 33 electric tape go
over that. And some tie wraps.

Thanks to all who suggested sealing tape for
the wiring harness.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Sat, 10 Oct 2015 09:44:28 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

Almost 24 hours later, and no one has answered my
question. Diversions, anecdotes, and drift.

Sorry. Your question was: --What's a good way to seal this, to keep
water out? Duck tape? Scotch 33 electrical?

For a spliced wire, I'd use shrink wrap tubing from HF. You can get a
bag with a variety of sizes.

(when all else fails, a coat hanger and duct tape)

On 10/10/2015 10:20 AM, Uncle Monster wrote:
Almost 24 hours later, and no one has answered my
question. Diversions, anecdotes, and drift.
-
.

I knew a guy with a Chevy Venture van that had problems because Chevy didn't spend a few more cents to seal the splices in the wiring harness. The wiring harnessing under the sill plates in the doors got wet when he left the windows open and the splices which were wrapped with cheap electrical tape, corroded and came apart. Any connectors corroded until they no longer made a reliable connection. Do you have a wiring harness that goes under the sill plates in your van's doors? o_O

[8~{} Uncle Van Monster


Still more drift, but harder and longer.

The wiring harness goes from under the seat,
towards the transmission, and lost it from
there. Under the doghouse maybe.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Sat, 10 Oct 2015 09:45:41 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

My first wrap was Scotch 33 electrical tape. After
I pull all that off, repair the bad connection,
and confirm the van runs, I may use Scotch 33
again. Seems like fairly good stuff. Might use a
couple nylon tie wraps over the tape.

-
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
. www.lds.org
.
.
Are you going to solder the connection this time? If so, get some
small heat shrink tubing and slip it over the wire before soldering.
Use resin core (electronic" solder, and then slide the heat shrink
over the joint and shrink it on with a heat gun. Not a bad idea to
slobber som dialectric grease over the connection before sliding the
heat shrink over it to make a "gas tite" fitting - and keep all
moisture and air out of the joint.

On Sat, 10 Oct 2015 07:20:02 -0700 (PDT), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Saturday, October 10, 2015 at 8:44:26 AM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 10/9/2015 11:38 PM, Uncle Monster wrote:
It indicated a loss of signal from the distributor. It turned out to be a thermal intermittent failure of the Hall Effect sensor in the distributor. After a new sensor was installed 20 years ago, the engine has always started reliably and is still going strong. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Van Monster


Almost 24 hours later, and no one has answered my
question. Diversions, anecdotes, and drift.
-
.

I knew a guy with a Chevy Venture van that had problems because Chevy didn't spend a few more cents to seal the splices in the wiring harness. The wiring harnessing under the sill plates in the doors got wet when he left the windows open and the splices which were wrapped with cheap electrical tape, corroded and came apart. Any connectors corroded until they no longer made a reliable connection. Do you have a wiring harness that goes under the sill plates in your van's doors? o_O

[8~{} Uncle Van Monster
GM was STUPID enough to make splices within the harness instead of
just at connectors - and they "T"d in with compression connectors that
were not sealed. That was on the ones they were smart enough to use
actual wire for. The "printed circuit" or "ribbon" cables are another
story completely - and are a royal pain to repair when you do locate a
break. Along the sill plate isn't as bad as under the carper in the
floor pans either.

On 10/10/2015 11:40 AM, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 10 Oct 2015 09:44:28 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

Almost 24 hours later, and no one has answered my
question. Diversions, anecdotes, and drift.

Sorry. Your question was: --What's a good way to seal this, to keep
water out? Duck tape? Scotch 33 electrical?

For a spliced wire, I'd use shrink wrap tubing from HF. You can get a
bag with a variety of sizes.

(when all else fails, a coat hanger and duct tape)


I did try a butt connector. But, I didn't push the
wire in far enough, and it didn't grab the wire.
I did have heat shrink tape slipped on, ready.

Twist on wire nut did the job. Layers of Scotch
33, and some nylon wire ties over that.

Thank you.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Sat, 10 Oct 2015 11:20:29 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 10/9/2015 10:53 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:

What's a good way to seal this, to keep water
out? Duck tape? Scotch 33 electrical?


Saturday. Went under van. I was tracing out a
blue wire, Spirit said to look at the tan one.
The tan wire had broken next to a crimp butt
connector. I cut that out, and used a wire
nut to put the wire back together. Try the
key, van starts up nicely.

Several layers of Scotch 33 electric tape go
over that. And some tie wraps.

Thanks to all who suggested sealing tape for
the wiring harness.


Wire nuts and common insulated crimp connectors are not good ways to
patch wiring harnesses. A good solidly twisted inline connection
(kinda like the old "western union" splice, soldered and sealed with
a 2 inch sleave of heat shrink (possibly also sealed with dialectric
grease) makes a connection that won't corrode and will withstand the
moisture that is always a problem under the floormats of ald vehicles.

You want a good "gas-tite" connection.
-
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
. www.lds.org
.
.

On 10/10/2015 12:18 PM, wrote:
Are you going to solder the connection this time? If so, get some
small heat shrink tubing and slip it over the wire before soldering.
Use resin core (electronic" solder, and then slide the heat shrink
over the joint and shrink it on with a heat gun. Not a bad idea to
slobber som dialectric grease over the connection before sliding the
heat shrink over it to make a "gas tite" fitting - and keep all
moisture and air out of the joint.


I did consider soldering. Havn't done much
wire soldering for last 30 years. I did
finally settle on a orange wire nut. Tape,
tie wraps. Went in the van to the auto parts
store for some parts for my other car.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 10/10/2015 12:25 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 10 Oct 2015 11:20:29 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 10/9/2015 10:53 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:

What's a good way to seal this, to keep water
out? Duck tape? Scotch 33 electrical?


Saturday. Went under van. I was tracing out a
blue wire, Spirit said to look at the tan one.
The tan wire had broken next to a crimp butt
connector. I cut that out, and used a wire
nut to put the wire back together. Try the
key, van starts up nicely.

Several layers of Scotch 33 electric tape go
over that. And some tie wraps.

Thanks to all who suggested sealing tape for
the wiring harness.


Wire nuts and common insulated crimp connectors are not good ways to
patch wiring harnesses. A good solidly twisted inline connection
(kinda like the old "western unio[Ideally, agree, it should be
soldered and heat shrinked. In this case, I think the wire nut and
tape are better than the butt crimp that I took out. The butt crimp
lasted several years.]
n" splice, soldered and sealed with
a 2 inch sleave of heat shrink (possibly also sealed with dialectric
grease) makes a connection that won't corrode and will withstand the
moisture that is always a problem under the floormats of ald vehicles.

You want a good "gas-tite" connection.
-
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
. www.lds.org
.
.


Center poasted, as your reply was.
-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Saturday, October 10, 2015 at 8:20:28 AM UTC-7, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Saturday. Went under van. I was tracing out a
blue wire, Spirit said to look at the tan one.
The tan wire had broken next to a crimp butt
connector. I cut that out, and used a wire
nut to put the wire back together. Try the
key, van starts up nicely.

Several layers of Scotch 33 electric tape go
over that. And some tie wraps.

Thanks to all who suggested sealing tape for
the wiring harness.
Christopher A. Young

Gives ya a good feelin'..........being able to fix you own s**t