On 10/10/2015 1:02 PM, Shade Tree Guy wrote:
On Saturday, October 10, 2015 at 8:20:28 AM UTC-7, Stormin Mormon wrote:

nut to put the wire back together. Try the
key, van starts up nicely.

Several layers of Scotch 33 electric tape go
over that. And some tie wraps.


Gives ya a good feelin'..........being able to fix you own s**t


The last time this one died, took a tow truck
and nine days in the shop and a couple hundred
bucks. Yes, it's a lot better than that.

And feels good, also.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Sat, 10 Oct 2015 12:25:27 -0400, wrote:

Wire nuts and common insulated crimp connectors are not good ways to
patch wiring harnesses. A good solidly twisted inline connection
(kinda like the old "western union" splice, soldered and sealed with
a 2 inch sleave of heat shrink (possibly also sealed with dialectric
grease) makes a connection that won't corrode and will withstand the
moisture that is always a problem under the floormats of ald vehicles.

+1

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Western_Union_splice

....mechanically and electrically -- better

"Oren" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 9 Oct 2015 11:12:57 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

See if there's any condensation inside the
distributor cap (if you even have one)


Yes, has one. Might be dry weather tomorrow.
I'll see if it starts. If it starts, I'll
spray water on things till I find what
makes it quit.

I had an old Chevy Impala (not by choice but necessity). When it
rained the engine would act the fool, run rough, etc. Late one night
in a rain storm, it start running bad.

Opened the hood and could see blue sparks fly around. Looked like a
Christmas tree lighting up.

The plug wires insulation were cracked and needed replacement.

If the distributor cap is getting wet inside, dry it out and using
plumber's putty to seal it. Same if you have a coil. As kids we could
make a Model A Ford run in deep water by sealing the cap and coil
wires

My dad use one of the spray tips from what now would be called an Arizona
Cool Mister. When it was dry and the engine ran right he would open the
hood (lights off in the dark) and wave the fine spray around. Did not take
long to fine the problem areas.

An aside he had a 63 VW and used parts off an old piper cub to install
armored plugs and wires. Dammed thing could run almost submerged.

On Sat, 10 Oct 2015 12:27:11 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 10/10/2015 12:18 PM, wrote:
Are you going to solder the connection this time? If so, get some
small heat shrink tubing and slip it over the wire before soldering.
Use resin core (electronic" solder, and then slide the heat shrink
over the joint and shrink it on with a heat gun. Not a bad idea to
slobber som dialectric grease over the connection before sliding the
heat shrink over it to make a "gas tite" fitting - and keep all
moisture and air out of the joint.


I did consider soldering. Havn't done much
wire soldering for last 30 years. I did
finally settle on a orange wire nut. Tape,
tie wraps. Went in the van to the auto parts
store for some parts for my other car.


A regular poster here, once mentioned conductive epoxy. No need to
solder...

On Sat, 10 Oct 2015 13:19:25 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

The last time this one died, took a tow truck
and nine days in the shop and a couple hundred
bucks. Yes, it's a lot better than that.

Next time you need a tow truck (wrecker) give thanks to Dixie. A
Southerner built the first one in Chattanooga, TN.

On Sat, 10 Oct 2015 12:27:11 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 10/10/2015 12:18 PM, wrote:
Are you going to solder the connection this time? If so, get some
small heat shrink tubing and slip it over the wire before soldering.
Use resin core (electronic" solder, and then slide the heat shrink
over the joint and shrink it on with a heat gun. Not a bad idea to
slobber som dialectric grease over the connection before sliding the
heat shrink over it to make a "gas tite" fitting - and keep all
moisture and air out of the joint.


I did consider soldering. Havn't done much
wire soldering for last 30 years. I did
finally settle on a orange wire nut. Tape,
tie wraps. Went in the van to the auto parts
store for some parts for my other car.

-
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
. www.lds.org
.
.
Just remember where that little wire nut is the next time it doesn't
run------

On Saturday, October 10, 2015 at 11:18:28 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Sat, 10 Oct 2015 09:45:41 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

My first wrap was Scotch 33 electrical tape. After
I pull all that off, repair the bad connection,
and confirm the van runs, I may use Scotch 33
again. Seems like fairly good stuff. Might use a
couple nylon tie wraps over the tape.
-
.
Are you going to solder the connection this time? If so, get some
small heat shrink tubing and slip it over the wire before soldering.
Use resin core (electronic" solder, and then slide the heat shrink
over the joint and shrink it on with a heat gun. Not a bad idea to
slobber som dialectric grease over the connection before sliding the
heat shrink over it to make a "gas tite" fitting - and keep all
moisture and air out of the joint.

That's what we did to fix the guys Venture van but I've also used the butt connectors that have heat shrink insulation already on them with excellent results. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Shrinking Monster

On Saturday, October 10, 2015 at 11:21:28 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Sat, 10 Oct 2015 07:20:02 -0700 (PDT), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Saturday, October 10, 2015 at 8:44:26 AM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 10/9/2015 11:38 PM, Uncle Monster wrote:
It indicated a loss of signal from the distributor. It turned out to be a thermal intermittent failure of the Hall Effect sensor in the distributor. After a new sensor was installed 20 years ago, the engine has always started reliably and is still going strong. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Van Monster


Almost 24 hours later, and no one has answered my
question. Diversions, anecdotes, and drift.
-
.

I knew a guy with a Chevy Venture van that had problems because Chevy didn't spend a few more cents to seal the splices in the wiring harness. The wiring harnessing under the sill plates in the doors got wet when he left the windows open and the splices which were wrapped with cheap electrical tape, corroded and came apart. Any connectors corroded until they no longer made a reliable connection. Do you have a wiring harness that goes under the sill plates in your van's doors? o_O

[8~{} Uncle Van Monster
GM was STUPID enough to make splices within the harness instead of
just at connectors - and they "T"d in with compression connectors that
were not sealed. That was on the ones they were smart enough to use
actual wire for. The "printed circuit" or "ribbon" cables are another
story completely - and are a royal pain to repair when you do locate a
break. Along the sill plate isn't as bad as under the carper in the
floor pans either.

Under the sill plates on the Venture is a grove or trough in the body that is there for the wiring harness and water fills the trough so the entire harness gets soaked on that side of the vehicle. If the connections and wire splices had been sealed at the factory, that common problem with the Venture vans would never have occurred. I wonder if GM saved a few dollars per van as they produced a million of the damn things? O_o

[8~{} Uncle Wet Monster

On 10/10/2015 9:06 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 10 Oct 2015 12:27:11 -0400, Stormin Mormon
I did
finally settle on a orange wire nut. Tape,
tie wraps. Went in the van to the auto parts
store for some parts for my other car.

.
Just remember where that little wire nut is the next time it doesn't
run------


I hope that won't be for several years. But,
who can tell? Just need a bit of rain some
night, and I could be wishing I'd soldered.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 10/11/2015 1:10 AM, Uncle Monster wrote:
On Saturday, October 10, 2015 at 11:18:28 AM UTC-5, wrote:
Are you going to solder the connection this time? If so, get some
small heat shrink tubing and slip it over the wire before soldering.
Use resin core (electronic" solder, and then slide the heat shrink
over the joint and shrink it on with a heat gun. Not a bad idea to
slobber som dialectric grease over the connection before sliding the
heat shrink over it to make a "gas tite" fitting - and keep all
moisture and air out of the joint.

That's what we did to fix the guys Venture van but
I've also used the butt connectors that have heat
shrink insulation already on them with excellent
results. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Shrinking Monster


I'm wishing that the Scotch 33 tape (with nylon
tie straps over that) does the job. Won't know
for a few years.

Saturday the van ran OK to get parts for the Blazer.
Wish me luck.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 10/11/2015 1:26 AM, Uncle Monster wrote:

Under the sill plates on the Venture is a grove
or trough in the body that is there for the wiring
harness and water fills the trough so the entire
harness gets soaked on that side of the vehicle.
If the connections and wire splices had been sealed
at the factory, that common problem with the
Venture vans would never have occurred. I wonder
if GM saved a few dollars per van as they produced
a million of the damn things? O_o

[8~{} Uncle Wet Monster


I wonder what's my mechanic's excuse for not using
some tape on my van's wiring harness? He only did
one van, for me.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Sunday, October 11, 2015 at 4:42:49 AM UTC-7, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Saturday the van ran OK to get parts for the Blazer.
Wish me luck.

-
.
Christopher A. Young


S-10 or full sized?
I have an old rusty (but trusty) '91 S-10 4X4

On Sat, 10 Oct 2015 22:26:22 -0700 (PDT), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Saturday, October 10, 2015 at 11:21:28 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Sat, 10 Oct 2015 07:20:02 -0700 (PDT), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Saturday, October 10, 2015 at 8:44:26 AM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 10/9/2015 11:38 PM, Uncle Monster wrote:
It indicated a loss of signal from the distributor. It turned out to be a thermal intermittent failure of the Hall Effect sensor in the distributor. After a new sensor was installed 20 years ago, the engine has always started reliably and is still going strong. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Van Monster


Almost 24 hours later, and no one has answered my
question. Diversions, anecdotes, and drift.
-
.

I knew a guy with a Chevy Venture van that had problems because Chevy didn't spend a few more cents to seal the splices in the wiring harness. The wiring harnessing under the sill plates in the doors got wet when he left the windows open and the splices which were wrapped with cheap electrical tape, corroded and came apart. Any connectors corroded until they no longer made a reliable connection. Do you have a wiring harness that goes under the sill plates in your van's doors? o_O

[8~{} Uncle Van Monster
GM was STUPID enough to make splices within the harness instead of
just at connectors - and they "T"d in with compression connectors that
were not sealed. That was on the ones they were smart enough to use
actual wire for. The "printed circuit" or "ribbon" cables are another
story completely - and are a royal pain to repair when you do locate a
break. Along the sill plate isn't as bad as under the carper in the
floor pans either.

Under the sill plates on the Venture is a grove or trough in the body that is there for the wiring harness and water fills the trough so the entire harness gets soaked on that side of the vehicle. If the connections and wire splices had been sealed at the factory, that common problem with the Venture vans would never have occurred. I wonder if GM saved a few dollars per van as they produced a million of the damn things? O_o

[8~{} Uncle Wet Monster
They likely saved about $0.03 per van. ANd that's enouigh to give the
beancounters wet dreams

On Sunday, October 11, 2015 at 10:48:47 AM UTC-7, wrote:

They likely saved about $0.03 per van. ANd that's enouigh to give the
beancounters wet dreams

Working on a 2006 Lincoln LS (nearly $50K orig price) where the pass window wouldn't completely close. Talk about cheap assed construction.
The power window has a wire spool mechanism with a plastic piece that's so poorly made it breaks with age
Ford Mo Co won't sell just the part....200 bucks for the whole assembly.
Even the junk yard clips were broken, but found one that JB weld could fix just enuf to work till he sold it.
Told him: "Don't use the window"

"Shade Tree Guy" wrote in message
...

Working on a 2006 Lincoln LS (nearly $50K orig price) where the pass
window wouldn't completely close. Talk about cheap assed construction.
The power window has a wire spool mechanism with a plastic piece that's so
poorly made it breaks with age
Ford Mo Co won't sell just the part....200 bucks for the whole assembly.
Even the junk yard clips were broken, but found one that JB weld could fix
just enuf to work till he sold it.
Told him: "Don't use the window"


When you buy a Lincoln and other high dollar cars you are not suspose to
keep them long enough for anything to break. They should be traded off
every 2 to 3 years for a new one..Even if it only has a few miles on it.
The cars are only suspose to last a short length of time. That way the car
companies can make more profit. Once by selling the cars at a high price
and again by not using high dollar parts that last.

On 10/11/2015 10:50 AM, Shade Tree Guy wrote:
On Sunday, October 11, 2015 at 4:42:49 AM UTC-7, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Saturday the van ran OK to get parts for the Blazer.
Wish me luck.

-
.
Christopher A. Young


S-10 or full sized?
I have an old rusty (but trusty) '91 S-10 4X4

1998, S-10 sized.

Neighbor the mechanic wasn't feeling well,
Saturday. Today he did the fuel filter while
I was at church. Battery is dead. I'll go
charge it up.

===============
Later. No joy. Ended up check the fuses, and
swap out a relay to the fuel pump. Now, it
runs.


-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Sunday, October 11, 2015 at 1:48:14 PM UTC-7, Ralph Mowery wrote:

When you buy a Lincoln and other high dollar cars you are not suspose to
keep them long enough for anything to break. They should be traded off
every 2 to 3 years for a new one..Even if it only has a few miles on it.
The cars are only suspose to last a short length of time. That way the car
companies can make more profit. Once by selling the cars at a high price
and again by not using high dollar parts that last.

Most any modern engine should last 250K miles, but the rest of the car?
Forgetaboutit!

On Sun, 11 Oct 2015 16:55:47 -0700 (PDT), Shade Tree Guy
wrote:

On Sunday, October 11, 2015 at 1:48:14 PM UTC-7, Ralph Mowery wrote:

When you buy a Lincoln and other high dollar cars you are not suspose to
keep them long enough for anything to break. They should be traded off
every 2 to 3 years for a new one..Even if it only has a few miles on it.
The cars are only suspose to last a short length of time. That way the car
companies can make more profit. Once by selling the cars at a high price
and again by not using high dollar parts that last.

Most any modern engine should last 250K miles, but the rest of the car?
Forgetaboutit!
Actually, todays cars, on the whole, are the best vehicles ever
built. Not just the engines, but the bodies.

Even the extremely heavily bodied cars of the thirties and forties
rusted worse than today's thin-steel bodies. The paint stands up MUCH
better than the paints of the past. It is not out of the ordinary for
a 25 year old car to go to the scrapyard today with it's original
paint intact, and the body in reasonable condition.

Yes, there are technology problems. But even the electric windows
today generally last every bit as well as the average manual window
winders of the past. Sure, there are some of the old systems that
stood up better than some of today's, but many of today's systems will
outlast the majority of the old ones. It was nothing to have the
window tracks and the channels that held the glass to the regulators
rotted out totally on a 10 year old car..You virtually NEVER see those
problems today. The weatherpack connectors used today generally last a
lot longer than the "open" connectors of the past - even when the
conductor and connector sizes are only a fraction of the size the old
ones were. Yes, some manufacturers scrimp a bit too much and their
design comes back to bite them. Occaisionally this happens while under
warranty. Once in a while you run across the problem on a vehicle
under 10 years old - but most cars from before the nineties were
pretty much junk by the time they were 10 or 15 years old. Today the
average fleet age is approaching 12 years in the USA. The median age
has crept up to 10 years - meaning fully half of the vehicles on the
road in the USA are 10 years old or older

On 10/11/2015 06:16 PM, wrote:
It is not out of the ordinary for
a 25 year old car to go to the scrapyard today with it's original
paint intact, and the body in reasonable condition.

My F150 has been shedding paint for years. It started out as gray and
it's now working on 50 shades of gray since I'm not too particular about
matching primer brands.

The first few years of the switch over to more environmentally friendly
coatings had problems.

On 10/11/2015 7:55 PM, Shade Tree Guy wrote:

Most any modern engine should last 250K miles, but the rest of the car?
Forgetaboutit!


My vehicles give out about 250 to 275k, I find.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Mon, 12 Oct 2015 06:32:27 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 10/11/2015 7:55 PM, Shade Tree Guy wrote:

Most any modern engine should last 250K miles, but the rest of the car?
Forgetaboutit!


My vehicles give out about 250 to 275k, I find.

-
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
. www.lds.org
.
.
I usually sell mine in operating condition somewhere around 240,000km
and someone gets a few more years out of them. Bought my current (20
year old) truck at 307,000km and plan on getting at least another 5
years out of it (currently at 337800km). Body is better than most 5
year old pickups. My wife's 14 year old car is unlikely to reach
200,000km in it's lifetime - it is currently sitting at about 96000km
and is in almost show-room condition.

posted for all of us...



On Sun, 11 Oct 2015 16:55:47 -0700 (PDT), Shade Tree Guy
wrote:

On Sunday, October 11, 2015 at 1:48:14 PM UTC-7, Ralph Mowery wrote:

When you buy a Lincoln and other high dollar cars you are not suspose to
keep them long enough for anything to break. They should be traded off
every 2 to 3 years for a new one..Even if it only has a few miles on it.
The cars are only suspose to last a short length of time. That way the car
companies can make more profit. Once by selling the cars at a high price
and again by not using high dollar parts that last.

Most any modern engine should last 250K miles, but the rest of the car?
Forgetaboutit!
Actually, todays cars, on the whole, are the best vehicles ever
built. Not just the engines, but the bodies.

Even the extremely heavily bodied cars of the thirties and forties
rusted worse than today's thin-steel bodies. The paint stands up MUCH
better than the paints of the past. It is not out of the ordinary for
a 25 year old car to go to the scrapyard today with it's original
paint intact, and the body in reasonable condition.

Yes, there are technology problems. But even the electric windows
today generally last every bit as well as the average manual window
winders of the past. Sure, there are some of the old systems that
stood up better than some of today's, but many of today's systems will
outlast the majority of the old ones. It was nothing to have the
window tracks and the channels that held the glass to the regulators
rotted out totally on a 10 year old car..You virtually NEVER see those
problems today. The weatherpack connectors used today generally last a
lot longer than the "open" connectors of the past - even when the
conductor and connector sizes are only a fraction of the size the old
ones were. Yes, some manufacturers scrimp a bit too much and their
design comes back to bite them. Occaisionally this happens while under
warranty. Once in a while you run across the problem on a vehicle
under 10 years old - but most cars from before the nineties were
pretty much junk by the time they were 10 or 15 years old. Today the
average fleet age is approaching 12 years in the USA. The median age
has crept up to 10 years - meaning fully half of the vehicles on the
road in the USA are 10 years old or older

+1 Just don't deploy the airbags...

--
Tekkie

On Mon, 12 Oct 2015 16:21:32 -0400, Tekkie®
wrote:

posted for all of us...



On Sun, 11 Oct 2015 16:55:47 -0700 (PDT), Shade Tree Guy
wrote:

On Sunday, October 11, 2015 at 1:48:14 PM UTC-7, Ralph Mowery wrote:

When you buy a Lincoln and other high dollar cars you are not suspose to
keep them long enough for anything to break. They should be traded off
every 2 to 3 years for a new one..Even if it only has a few miles on it.
The cars are only suspose to last a short length of time. That way the car
companies can make more profit. Once by selling the cars at a high price
and again by not using high dollar parts that last.

Most any modern engine should last 250K miles, but the rest of the car?
Forgetaboutit!
Actually, todays cars, on the whole, are the best vehicles ever
built. Not just the engines, but the bodies.

Even the extremely heavily bodied cars of the thirties and forties
rusted worse than today's thin-steel bodies. The paint stands up MUCH
better than the paints of the past. It is not out of the ordinary for
a 25 year old car to go to the scrapyard today with it's original
paint intact, and the body in reasonable condition.

Yes, there are technology problems. But even the electric windows
today generally last every bit as well as the average manual window
winders of the past. Sure, there are some of the old systems that
stood up better than some of today's, but many of today's systems will
outlast the majority of the old ones. It was nothing to have the
window tracks and the channels that held the glass to the regulators
rotted out totally on a 10 year old car..You virtually NEVER see those
problems today. The weatherpack connectors used today generally last a
lot longer than the "open" connectors of the past - even when the
conductor and connector sizes are only a fraction of the size the old
ones were. Yes, some manufacturers scrimp a bit too much and their
design comes back to bite them. Occaisionally this happens while under
warranty. Once in a while you run across the problem on a vehicle
under 10 years old - but most cars from before the nineties were
pretty much junk by the time they were 10 or 15 years old. Today the
average fleet age is approaching 12 years in the USA. The median age
has crept up to 10 years - meaning fully half of the vehicles on the
road in the USA are 10 years old or older

+1 Just don't deploy the airbags...

I hear ya - the GM compacts - pontiac sunfire, Chevy Cavalier etc -
could be written off by hitting a curb. One bent rim, $60 windsheild,
dash pad, 2 air bags, air bag sensors and labor to install, $2800.00 -
salvage value $500, retail value $2400-$2800 - A slam dunk - it was a
write-off.

On Mon, 12 Oct 2015 19:48:20 -0400, wrote:



I hear ya - the GM compacts - pontiac sunfire, Chevy Cavalier etc -
could be written off by hitting a curb. One bent rim, $60 windsheild,
dash pad, 2 air bags, air bag sensors and labor to install, $2800.00 -
salvage value $500, retail value $2400-$2800 - A slam dunk - it was a
write-off.

My kid has a '95 Bonneville. 3-4 years ago the passenger side airbag
went off. My wife was with him, and had bent down in the seat,
reaching into her purse, else she may have been hurt.
Probably a short in the module, because my son found wet carpet under
the passenger seat, where the module resides.
He tracked that leak down and fixed it.
They were just sitting in a parking lot, and he had just started the
car.
Anyway, it took out the windshield and basically destroyed the
dashboard, putting multiple cracks in it. Surprised me the damage
that airbag did.
GM wanted $3400 to fix the airbag system. Just the airbags and
control module.
He got a new windshield. About $200 for that. The guy installed it
in my driveway. A dashboard from the boneyard was about $50
Had the car looking like new that weekend.
Completely removed the air bag system.
But he's a pro mechanic.

I ended up using Scotch 33 electrical tape.
The wiring harness is under, where it gets
no direct sun light. It was wet yesterday,
and the vehicle started up, okay. I consider
that a success.

Hope it continues to run when needed.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..