I am going to make the breadboard TV antenna installation on my garden
shed permanent.

To that end, I will use two 4" standoff brackets to hold the mast:

- One up at the eve, so it will bolt into a frame member.

- The other a few feet off the ground. Seems pretty obvious that
the skin of the shed lacks the strength to support something like
that so I will bolt a 2x4 to the outside with bolts going trough
the skin into 3 of the vertical frame members inside the shed....
and then I'll attach the lower standoff bracket to the 2x4.


The Question:

Are there any Good Practices for something like this?

I'm thinking in terms of the 2x4 up against the skin of
the shed and rot growing between the two as rainwater
seeps into the joint.

Something inside the shed instead of outside ?

# of lag bolts per vertical frame member? 1 centered
in the 2x4 or two spread apart?
--
Pete Cresswell

(PeteCresswell) wrote:
I am going to make the breadboard TV antenna installation on my garden
shed permanent.

To that end, I will use two 4" standoff brackets to hold the mast:

- One up at the eve, so it will bolt into a frame member.

- The other a few feet off the ground. Seems pretty obvious that
the skin of the shed lacks the strength to support something like
that so I will bolt a 2x4 to the outside with bolts going trough
the skin into 3 of the vertical frame members inside the shed....
and then I'll attach the lower standoff bracket to the 2x4.


The Question:

Are there any Good Practices for something like this?

I'm thinking in terms of the 2x4 up against the skin of
the shed and rot growing between the two as rainwater
seeps into the joint.

Something inside the shed instead of outside ?

# of lag bolts per vertical frame member? 1 centered
in the 2x4 or two spread apart?

If this is a 2x4 framed plywood skinned shed you can install 2x6's (6" width
against the outer skin) between the studs on the inside , attach your
brackets to those . That might be difficult if there is wallboard or
sheetrock on the inside . If that's the case , just rip a bevel on the top
edge of your 2x4 so it sheds water .

--
Snag

On Thu, 01 Oct 2015 15:52:44 -0400, "(PeteCresswell)"
wrote:

I am going to make the breadboard TV antenna installation on my garden
shed permanent.

To that end, I will use two 4" standoff brackets to hold the mast:

- One up at the eve, so it will bolt into a frame member.

- The other a few feet off the ground. Seems pretty obvious that
the skin of the shed lacks the strength to support something like
that so I will bolt a 2x4 to the outside with bolts going trough
the skin into 3 of the vertical frame members inside the shed....
and then I'll attach the lower standoff bracket to the 2x4.


The Question:

Are there any Good Practices for something like this?

I'm thinking in terms of the 2x4 up against the skin of
the shed and rot growing between the two as rainwater
seeps into the joint.

Something inside the shed instead of outside ?

# of lag bolts per vertical frame member? 1 centered
in the 2x4 or two spread apart?
If you are strapping the new PT lumber to a metal shed, be sure you
put a membrane between them. This PT eats metal, or so they say.
I would also seal up the joint with caulking (coat the material
completely at the interface) That will keep the water out

(PeteCresswell) wrote:
I am going to make the breadboard TV antenna installation on my garden
shed permanent.

To that end, I will use two 4" standoff brackets to hold the mast:

- One up at the eve, so it will bolt into a frame member.

- The other a few feet off the ground. Seems pretty obvious that
the skin of the shed lacks the strength to support something like
that so I will bolt a 2x4 to the outside with bolts going trough
the skin into 3 of the vertical frame members inside the shed....
and then I'll attach the lower standoff bracket to the 2x4.


The Question:

Are there any Good Practices for something like this?

I'm thinking in terms of the 2x4 up against the skin of
the shed and rot growing between the two as rainwater
seeps into the joint.

Put the 2x4 on 1/2" standoffs, to air can get between the 2?

Hi Pete,

I am going to make the breadboard TV antenna installation on my garden
shed permanent.
To that end, I will use two 4" standoff brackets to hold the mast:
- One up at the eve, so it will bolt into a frame member.
- The other a few feet off the ground. Seems pretty obvious that
the skin of the shed lacks the strength to support something like
that so I will bolt a 2x4 to the outside with bolts going trough
the skin into 3 of the vertical frame members inside the shed....
and then I'll attach the lower standoff bracket to the 2x4.

Are there any Good Practices for something like this?
I'm thinking in terms of the 2x4 up against the skin of
the shed and rot growing between the two as rainwater
seeps into the joint.

Something inside the shed instead of outside ?

# of lag bolts per vertical frame member? 1 centered
in the 2x4 or two spread apart?

If you have access to the inside of the shed, I would install some 2x6
backer boards between the studs where you plan to attach the brackets.
This will give you a secure mounting point without worrying about rot on
the outside of the shed.

If you need to install a 2x4 on the outside of the shed for some reason
(spacing to match the eave at the top, or no access to the studs inside),
I would treat it like a deck ledger. Cut the top of the 2x4 at a bevel so
water can run off easily. Then use a few washers between the 2x4 and the
shed where the lag bolts attach to the shed. This will allow space
between the 2x4 and the sheathing for moisture to run off and dry out.
Make sure the lag bolts are long enough to penetrate the blocking inside
the shed. It wouldn't hurt to caulk around the lag bolts where they
penetrate the wall.

Unless you are dealing with hurricane force winds or something, one lag
bolt per stud should be plenty. I'm guessing the brackets only have one
hole each side anyway.

If the antenna cable enters the building through the wall, make sure to
droop the cable down before it enters the building. This will allow any
water to drip off the bottom dip in the cable instead of running inside
the wall.

I don't know how big your antenna is, how tall your mast is, or if it
runs all the way to the ground. I have a five foot mast mounted at the
top of our gable end. It's simply lagged into the 5/8" plywood sheathing
with two brackets, haven't had any issues in 10+ years.

Good luck!

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com

It seems like you are doing plenty enough with what you propose, unless the antenna mast is a 40 foot tall mast with a humongous log-periodic antenna at the top. Don't overdo it!

Per HerHusband:
I don't know how big your antenna is, how tall your mast is, or if it
runs all the way to the ground. I have a five foot mast mounted at the
top of our gable end. It's simply lagged into the 5/8" plywood sheathing
with two brackets, haven't had any issues in 10+ years.

It's waaaaaaaay bigger that I expected - as in 32# and 7 x 11'.....

Accordingly, the mast will butt up on a cinder block on the ground.

Main thing, I want to be able to re-aim the antenna without climbing a
ladder... but having it rest on the ground would also seem to alleviate
a lot of stress on the W-brackets holding it to the side of the shed.

I think I will go with the 2x4 just for the spacing - to bring the
bracket out to match to top one on the eve.

I like the washers... definitely going to do that.
--
Pete Cresswell

On Fri, 02 Oct 2015 19:10:48 -0500, (PeteCresswell) wrote:

Per HerHusband:
I don't know how big your antenna is, how tall your mast is, or if it
runs all the way to the ground. I have a five foot mast mounted at the
top of our gable end. It's simply lagged into the 5/8" plywood sheathing
with two brackets, haven't had any issues in 10+ years.

It's waaaaaaaay bigger that I expected - as in 32# and 7 x 11'.....

Accordingly, the mast will butt up on a cinder block on the ground.

Main thing, I want to be able to re-aim the antenna without climbing a
ladder... but having it rest on the ground would also seem to alleviate
a lot of stress on the W-brackets holding it to the side of the shed.

Would something like a chain Vice Grip make a good handle to help turn
the antenna? Harbor Freight sells a less expensive version.

I think I will go with the 2x4 just for the spacing - to bring the
bracket out to match to top one on the eve.

I like the washers... definitely going to do that.


--
Using Opera's mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/

On 10/2/2015 5:10 PM, (PeteCresswell) wrote:
Per HerHusband:
I don't know how big your antenna is, how tall your mast is, or if it
runs all the way to the ground. I have a five foot mast mounted at the
top of our gable end. It's simply lagged into the 5/8" plywood sheathing
with two brackets, haven't had any issues in 10+ years.

It's waaaaaaaay bigger that I expected - as in 32# and 7 x 11'.....

Accordingly, the mast will butt up on a cinder block on the ground.

Why not pour a small footer and set a 2-3" diameter pipe in that
(i.e., something with a slightly larger ID than your mast's OD)
and let the "ground" control lateral movement of that end of the
mast?

Main thing, I want to be able to re-aim the antenna without climbing a
ladder... but having it rest on the ground would also seem to alleviate
a lot of stress on the W-brackets holding it to the side of the shed.

Perhaps make the above mentioned 2-3" pipe even *longer* and *set*
the mast inside it so the outer pipe carries *all* of the lateral
mechanical load?

I think I will go with the 2x4 just for the spacing - to bring the
bracket out to match to top one on the eve.

I like the washers... definitely going to do that.

(PeteCresswell) wrote:
Per HerHusband:
I don't know how big your antenna is, how tall your mast is, or if it
runs all the way to the ground. I have a five foot mast mounted at
the top of our gable end. It's simply lagged into the 5/8" plywood
sheathing with two brackets, haven't had any issues in 10+ years.

It's waaaaaaaay bigger that I expected - as in 32# and 7 x 11'.....

Accordingly, the mast will butt up on a cinder block on the ground.

Main thing, I want to be able to re-aim the antenna without climbing a
ladder... but having it rest on the ground would also seem to
alleviate a lot of stress on the W-brackets holding it to the side of
the shed.

Why not just put an antenna rotator where the antenna is now?

Per Dean Hoffman:

Would something like a chain Vice Grip make a good handle to help turn
the antenna? Harbor Freight sells a less expensive version.

I have a couple of strap wrenches and expect (?) them to do the job.

I'll put a little PVC pipe sleeve in the top bracket so rotating does
not score the mast and tighten the bracket just enough to prevent any
side-to-side movement, but not enough to prevent rotation - although
rotation will not be that easy.

Then I'll tighten the lower bracket enough to prevent rotation.

Might do the PVC thing too if I can still tighten enough to prevent
spontaneous rotation.

Come re-aim time, I'll loosen the lower bracket use the strap wrenches
to rotate to taste, and then re-tighten.
--
Pete Cresswell

"(PeteCresswell)" wrote in message
Might do the PVC thing too if I can still tighten enough to prevent
spontaneous rotation.

Come re-aim time, I'll loosen the lower bracket use the strap wrenches
to rotate to taste, and then re-tighten.
--
Pete Cresswell

How tall (far off the ground ) is this antenna ?

Also how far above the roof of the bulding is it ?

Per Ralph Mowery:
How tall (far off the ground ) is this antenna ?

Also how far above the roof of the bulding is it ?

14', which puts it 3' above the roof of the garden shed.

I am pretty sure that will work, because my breadboard implementation
has the antenna attached to an 11' pruning pole with the antenna just an
inch or so off the roof.
--
Pete Cresswell

"(PeteCresswell)" wrote in message
...
Per Ralph Mowery:
How tall (far off the ground ) is this antenna ?

Also how far above the roof of the bulding is it ?

14', which puts it 3' above the roof of the garden shed.

I am pretty sure that will work, because my breadboard implementation
has the antenna attached to an 11' pruning pole with the antenna just an
inch or so off the roof.
--
Pete Cresswell

Just about anything should hold it up. I have had some ham antennas up
without much suport. One was about that size and all I had was a pipe about
1 foot in the ground It stuck up about 4 feet and the main mast went down
into that pipe. At the top of the house was a metal strap about 2 inches
wide and a lag bolt on each side of that strap.

Sometimes you can over think things.

Per Ralph Mowery:
Just about anything should hold it up. I have had some ham antennas up
without much suport. One was about that size and all I had was a pipe about
1 foot in the ground It stuck up about 4 feet and the main mast went down
into that pipe. At the top of the house was a metal strap about 2 inches
wide and a lag bolt on each side of that strap.

Sometimes you can over think things.

Guilty as charged.... and not just sometimes.... -)
--
Pete Cresswell

A pair of holes opposite each other, big enough you can put a Phillips screwdriver thru the pair of holes, will allow you to use the Phillips screwdriver to rotate the pole. Like I said yesterday, don't over engineer something so simple.