I just got through installing two new Sears Craftsman garage door
openers to replace the Craftsman openers I installed 30 years ago and
were performing intermittently, stopping or reversing when there were no
apparent overloads to the doors travel.

So, I sprung for two new Craftsman openers and they work slicker than
snot on a brass doorknob.

It was interesting to note how much lighter the main rail and traveling
components have become over that time, but they look like they'll
probably hold up for the rest of my years.

Anyway, the point is that I'm left with four working garage door
transmitters viz:

One Craftsman 139.53708 One Button Control
One Craftsman 139.53718 Three Button Control
Two Chamberlin Liftsmaster 61LM One button controls

That I'll never need.

These are all the earlier style transmitters with dip switches inside to
set the code.

I'd be happy to give them to folks on this group who could use them. I
think I can mail one or a pair of them in a padded envelope for less
than $5, so if someone wants them just email me after removing the
obvious upper case words from what shows here, and we'll work it out.

Jeff
--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.

On 9/27/2015 12:44 PM, Jeff Wisnia wrote:
I just got through installing two new Sears Craftsman garage door openers to
replace the Craftsman openers I installed 30 years ago and were performing
intermittently, stopping or reversing when there were no apparent overloads to
the doors travel.

See below.

So, I sprung for two new Craftsman openers and they work slicker than snot on a
brass doorknob.

Amazing to try to *remember* what is was like to LIFT a garage door by
hand, eh? : Sort of like GETTING UP to change the channel on the TV! :-/

It was interesting to note how much lighter the main rail and traveling
components have become over that time, but they look like they'll probably hold
up for the rest of my years.

One thing you'll have to watch is the mechanical system tends to be
underdamped. The "impulse" that it experiences when starting can
often lead to the opener triggering a fault and stopping travel
("Oh! I may have just crushed a little child!"). You can usually
compensate for this with an "overload" adjustment on the opener.

[Just something to keep in mind if you find the opener stopping
unexpectedly.]

Anyway, the point is that I'm left with four working garage door transmitters viz:

One Craftsman 139.53708 One Button Control
One Craftsman 139.53718 Three Button Control
Two Chamberlin Liftsmaster 61LM One button controls

That I'll never need.

These are all the earlier style transmitters with dip switches inside to set
the code.

Fixed code systems should be avoided. Far too easy for someone to
"harvest" your code and, thereafter, have unimpeded access to your
garage. *With* that, in many cases, you also gain entry to the
house interior -- as folks (IME) tend NOT to lock the interior door
from garage to house.

On Sun, 27 Sep 2015 15:44:49 -0400, Jeff Wisnia
wrote:

nyway, the point is that I'm left with four working garage door
transmitters viz:

One Craftsman 139.53708 One Button Control
One Craftsman 139.53718 Three Button Control
Two Chamberlin Liftsmaster 61LM One button controls

That I'll never need.

These are all the earlier style transmitters with dip switches inside to
set the code.

.... put them on Craigslist for free or a yard sale?

What about the receivers that worked at receiving the signals from those transmitters????

On Sunday, September 27, 2015 at 3:10:27 PM UTC-5, Oren wrote:
On Sun, 27 Sep 2015 15:44:49 -0400, Jeff Wisnia
wrote:

nyway, the point is that I'm left with four working garage door
transmitters viz:

One Craftsman 139.53708 One Button Control
One Craftsman 139.53718 Three Button Control
Two Chamberlin Liftsmaster 61LM One button controls

That I'll never need.

These are all the earlier style transmitters with dip switches inside to
set the code.

... put them on Craigslist for free or a yard sale?

Mail them to the Muslim clock boy. I'm sure he can find a use for them. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Remote Monster

On Sun, 27 Sep 2015 15:44:49 -0400, Jeff Wisnia
wrote:

I just got through installing two new Sears Craftsman garage door
openers to replace the Craftsman openers I installed 30 years ago and
were performing intermittently, stopping or reversing when there were no
apparent overloads to the doors travel.

So, I sprung for two new Craftsman openers and they work slicker than
snot on a brass doorknob.

It was interesting to note how much lighter the main rail and traveling
components have become over that time, but they look like they'll
probably hold up for the rest of my years.

Anyway, the point is that I'm left with four working garage door
transmitters viz:

One Craftsman 139.53708 One Button Control
One Craftsman 139.53718 Three Button Control
Two Chamberlin Liftsmaster 61LM One button controls

That I'll never need.

These are all the earlier style transmitters with dip switches inside to
set the code.

I'd be happy to give them to folks on this group who could use them. I
think I can mail one or a pair of them in a padded envelope for less
than $5, so if someone wants them just email me after removing the
obvious upper case words from what shows here, and we'll work it out.

Jeff

On Sunday, September 27, 2015 at 3:44:58 PM UTC-4, Jeff Wisnia wrote:
I just got through installing two new Sears Craftsman garage door
openers to replace the Craftsman openers I installed 30 years ago and
were performing intermittently, stopping or reversing when there were no
apparent overloads to the doors travel.

So, I sprung for two new Craftsman openers and they work slicker than
snot on a brass doorknob.

It was interesting to note how much lighter the main rail and traveling
components have become over that time, but they look like they'll
probably hold up for the rest of my years.

Anyway, the point is that I'm left with four working garage door
transmitters viz:

One Craftsman 139.53708 One Button Control
One Craftsman 139.53718 Three Button Control
Two Chamberlin Liftsmaster 61LM One button controls

That I'll never need.

These are all the earlier style transmitters with dip switches inside to
set the code.

I'd be happy to give them to folks on this group who could use them. I
think I can mail one or a pair of them in a padded envelope for less
than $5, so if someone wants them just email me after removing the
obvious upper case words from what shows here, and we'll work it out.

Jeff
--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.

I'll look up my part numbers later today. If either of the 139 units will work with my GDO, I'll take one of them off of your hands.

On Sunday, September 27, 2015 at 3:44:58 PM UTC-4, Jeff Wisnia wrote:
I just got through installing two new Sears Craftsman garage door
openers to replace the Craftsman openers I installed 30 years ago and
were performing intermittently, stopping or reversing when there were no
apparent overloads to the doors travel.

So, I sprung for two new Craftsman openers and they work slicker than
snot on a brass doorknob.

It was interesting to note how much lighter the main rail and traveling
components have become over that time, but they look like they'll
probably hold up for the rest of my years.

Anyway, the point is that I'm left with four working garage door
transmitters viz:

One Craftsman 139.53708 One Button Control
One Craftsman 139.53718 Three Button Control
Two Chamberlin Liftsmaster 61LM One button controls

That I'll never need.

These are all the earlier style transmitters with dip switches inside to
set the code.

I'd be happy to give them to folks on this group who could use them. I
think I can mail one or a pair of them in a padded envelope for less
than $5, so if someone wants them just email me after removing the
obvious upper case words from what shows here, and we'll work it out.

Jeff
--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.

P.S. Thanks for the offer.

On Sunday, September 27, 2015 at 4:03:06 PM UTC-4, Don Y wrote:
On 9/27/2015 12:44 PM, Jeff Wisnia wrote:
I just got through installing two new Sears Craftsman garage door openers to
replace the Craftsman openers I installed 30 years ago and were performing
intermittently, stopping or reversing when there were no apparent overloads to
the doors travel.

See below.

So, I sprung for two new Craftsman openers and they work slicker than snot on a
brass doorknob.

Amazing to try to *remember* what is was like to LIFT a garage door by
hand, eh? : Sort of like GETTING UP to change the channel on the TV! :-/

It was interesting to note how much lighter the main rail and traveling
components have become over that time, but they look like they'll probably hold
up for the rest of my years.

One thing you'll have to watch is the mechanical system tends to be
underdamped. The "impulse" that it experiences when starting can
often lead to the opener triggering a fault and stopping travel
("Oh! I may have just crushed a little child!"). You can usually
compensate for this with an "overload" adjustment on the opener.


Temperature can also be a factor. I typically have to increase the up force on my older Craftsman GDO when winter arrives. If I don't, it will start to open then stop.

You might say it's too early to be worrying about temperature issues, but I just spent the weekend in Western Massachusetts. It was 33° F on Sunday morning.

On 9/28/2015 5:04 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, September 27, 2015 at 4:03:06 PM UTC-4, Don Y wrote:

One thing you'll have to watch is the mechanical system tends to be
underdamped. The "impulse" that it experiences when starting can often
lead to the opener triggering a fault and stopping travel ("Oh! I may
have just crushed a little child!"). You can usually compensate for this
with an "overload" adjustment on the opener.

Temperature can also be a factor. I typically have to increase the up force
on my older Craftsman GDO when winter arrives. If I don't, it will start to
open then stop.

Bad rollers (they can be easily replaced), loose hinges and other hardware
also play a roll. It pays to "watch" the mechanism and see how much it
"dances around" -- esp as it tries to get started. If it's moving one way
(due to an undamped oscillation) and opener wants it moving the *other*,
it looks like a jam/overload.

You might say it's too early to be worrying about temperature issues, but I
just spent the weekend in Western Massachusetts. It was 33° F on Sunday
morning.

I think 102 forecast, here... presently 72 at ~5AM

wrote:
What about the receivers that worked at receiving the signals from those transmitters????



They are built into the sick/dead garage door openers, which ended up
tossed into a dumpster.

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.

Don Y wrote:
On 9/28/2015 5:04 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, September 27, 2015 at 4:03:06 PM UTC-4, Don Y wrote:

One thing you'll have to watch is the mechanical system tends to be
underdamped. The "impulse" that it experiences when starting can often
lead to the opener triggering a fault and stopping travel ("Oh! I may
have just crushed a little child!"). You can usually compensate for
this
with an "overload" adjustment on the opener.

Temperature can also be a factor. I typically have to increase the up
force
on my older Craftsman GDO when winter arrives. If I don't, it will
start to
open then stop.

Bad rollers (they can be easily replaced), loose hinges and other hardware
also play a roll. It pays to "watch" the mechanism and see how much it
"dances around" -- esp as it tries to get started. If it's moving one way
(due to an undamped oscillation) and opener wants it moving the *other*,
it looks like a jam/overload.

You might say it's too early to be worrying about temperature issues,
but I
just spent the weekend in Western Massachusetts. It was 33° F on Sunday
morning.

I think 102 forecast, here... presently 72 at ~5AM

Thanks, but I installed a new set of nylon/ball bearing track rollers on
one of those doors, oiled the hinges and saw that the door was properly
balanced. It still would intermittently decide to stop on the way up or
reverse on the way down regardless of how I set the "force settings."
None of that happened after I installed the new opener.

The second opener just "dropped dead" and the only faint of some life
was that the LED in its wall mounted push button control was lit.

30 years of use for both of those openers gave me my money's worth,
don't you think?

Jeff


--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.

On 9/28/2015 8:30 AM, Jeff Wisnia wrote:
Don Y wrote:
On 9/28/2015 5:04 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, September 27, 2015 at 4:03:06 PM UTC-4, Don Y wrote:

One thing you'll have to watch is the mechanical system tends to be
underdamped. The "impulse" that it experiences when starting can often
lead to the opener triggering a fault and stopping travel ("Oh! I may
have just crushed a little child!"). You can usually compensate for
this
with an "overload" adjustment on the opener.

Temperature can also be a factor. I typically have to increase the up
force
on my older Craftsman GDO when winter arrives. If I don't, it will
start to
open then stop.

Bad rollers (they can be easily replaced), loose hinges and other hardware
also play a roll. It pays to "watch" the mechanism and see how much it
"dances around" -- esp as it tries to get started. If it's moving one way
(due to an undamped oscillation) and opener wants it moving the *other*,
it looks like a jam/overload.

You might say it's too early to be worrying about temperature issues,
but I
just spent the weekend in Western Massachusetts. It was 33° F on Sunday
morning.

I think 102 forecast, here... presently 72 at ~5AM

Thanks, but I installed a new set of nylon/ball bearing track rollers on one of
those doors, oiled the hinges and saw that the door was properly balanced. It
still would intermittently decide to stop on the way up or reverse on the way
down regardless of how I set the "force settings." None of that happened after
I installed the new opener.

The second opener just "dropped dead" and the only faint of some life was that
the LED in its wall mounted push button control was lit.

30 years of use for both of those openers gave me my money's worth, don't you
think?

I wasn't questioning your decision to replace. Rather, was commenting on your
observation:
"It was interesting to note how much lighter the main rail and traveling
components have become over that time, but they look like they'll probably
hold up for the rest of my years."

On 9/28/2015 8:22 AM, Jeff Wisnia wrote:
wrote:
What about the receivers that worked at receiving the signals from those
transmitters????

They are built into the sick/dead garage door openers, which ended up tossed
into a dumpster.

They're usually built onto the "back cover". When I replace an opener,
I pull that cover off and set it aside -- self-contained remote control
system (albeit one in an unusual form factor).

On Mon, 28 Sep 2015 09:11:43 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 9/28/2015 8:22 AM, Jeff Wisnia wrote:
wrote:
What about the receivers that worked at receiving the signals from those
transmitters????

They are built into the sick/dead garage door openers, which ended up tossed
into a dumpster.

They're usually built onto the "back cover". When I replace an opener,
I pull that cover off and set it aside -- self-contained remote control
system (albeit one in an unusual form factor).

On the chamberlain/Crafstman GDO I have sitting on the bench right
now, the RF receiver is on the same card as the motor controller. It
is one FRU for just about everything .

On 9/28/2015 1:04 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 28 Sep 2015 09:11:43 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 9/28/2015 8:22 AM, Jeff Wisnia wrote:
wrote:
What about the receivers that worked at receiving the signals from those
transmitters????

They are built into the sick/dead garage door openers, which ended up tossed
into a dumpster.

They're usually built onto the "back cover". When I replace an opener,
I pull that cover off and set it aside -- self-contained remote control
system (albeit one in an unusual form factor).

On the chamberlain/Crafstman GDO I have sitting on the bench right
now, the RF receiver is on the same card as the motor controller. It
is one FRU for just about everything .

Yes. And you can, for example, wire an arbitrary load in place of the motor
and have a "remote controlled" whatever.

I plan to install a momentary switch in one of the empty "knockouts" in
the car dash wired to the opener's xmtr with the "receiver" connected
to a light to illuminate the driveway. So, when backing into the
garage, at night, we'll be able to *see* the driveway (instead of
relying on the feeble backup lights on the car)

On Mon, 28 Sep 2015 13:18:11 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 9/28/2015 1:04 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 28 Sep 2015 09:11:43 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 9/28/2015 8:22 AM, Jeff Wisnia wrote:
wrote:
What about the receivers that worked at receiving the signals from those
transmitters????

They are built into the sick/dead garage door openers, which ended up tossed
into a dumpster.

They're usually built onto the "back cover". When I replace an opener,
I pull that cover off and set it aside -- self-contained remote control
system (albeit one in an unusual form factor).

On the chamberlain/Crafstman GDO I have sitting on the bench right
now, the RF receiver is on the same card as the motor controller. It
is one FRU for just about everything .

Yes. And you can, for example, wire an arbitrary load in place of the motor
and have a "remote controlled" whatever.

I plan to install a momentary switch in one of the empty "knockouts" in
the car dash wired to the opener's xmtr with the "receiver" connected
to a light to illuminate the driveway. So, when backing into the
garage, at night, we'll be able to *see* the driveway (instead of
relying on the feeble backup lights on the car)


It is more complicated than that on the one I have. There is a slotted
wheel optical emitter that monitors motor movement and shuts it down
if it is not seeing pulses at the expected rate.

It is easier to just buy a separate GDO receiver. I got one on Ebay
for $10 or so, to use as the portable "next" button on my tiki bar MP3
player.

http://gfretwell.com/ftp/next%20button.jpg

That picks a relay and makes the appropriate key on the keyboard card
that runs this

http://gfretwell.com/ftp/judybar.jpg

The whole thing runs on a PC using MPXPLAY a DOS application in DOXBOX
a W/XP application.

For your application, why not just add more lights to the light in the
opener?
My wife wants me to install "chase lights" in her dad's driveway
hooked to his opener.

On 9/28/2015 3:07 PM, wrote:

I plan to install a momentary switch in one of the empty "knockouts" in
the car dash wired to the opener's xmtr with the "receiver" connected
to a light to illuminate the driveway. So, when backing into the
garage, at night, we'll be able to *see* the driveway (instead of
relying on the feeble backup lights on the car)

It is more complicated than that on the one I have. There is a slotted
wheel optical emitter that monitors motor movement and shuts it down
if it is not seeing pulses at the expected rate.

It is easier to just buy a separate GDO receiver. I got one on Ebay
for $10 or so, to use as the portable "next" button on my tiki bar MP3
player.

http://gfretwell.com/ftp/next%20button.jpg

That picks a relay and makes the appropriate key on the keyboard card
that runs this

http://gfretwell.com/ftp/judybar.jpg

The whole thing runs on a PC using MPXPLAY a DOS application in DOXBOX
a W/XP application.

For your application, why not just add more lights to the light in the
opener?

Don't want lights going on just because the door is opened.
Consider daylight. Also, want to be able to light up the
driveway when the door is NOT being opened.

I figure I can add a switch in a dashboard knockout in the one car
with the old "remote" unit, program one of the extra "HomeLink" remote
buttons in the other car and wire a pushbutton to the "manual
open" contacts for a "wall switch" just inside the garage door.

My wife wants me to install "chase lights" in her dad's driveway
hooked to his opener.

I want to build a Cylon visor (that's actually functional as sunglasses)
along the same lines! Would be wicked cool at night!

On Monday, September 28, 2015 at 5:07:54 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Mon, 28 Sep 2015 13:18:11 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 9/28/2015 1:04 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 28 Sep 2015 09:11:43 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 9/28/2015 8:22 AM, Jeff Wisnia wrote:
wrote:
What about the receivers that worked at receiving the signals from those
transmitters????

They are built into the sick/dead garage door openers, which ended up tossed
into a dumpster.

They're usually built onto the "back cover". When I replace an opener,
I pull that cover off and set it aside -- self-contained remote control
system (albeit one in an unusual form factor).

On the chamberlain/Crafstman GDO I have sitting on the bench right
now, the RF receiver is on the same card as the motor controller. It
is one FRU for just about everything .

Yes. And you can, for example, wire an arbitrary load in place of the motor
and have a "remote controlled" whatever.

I plan to install a momentary switch in one of the empty "knockouts" in
the car dash wired to the opener's xmtr with the "receiver" connected
to a light to illuminate the driveway. So, when backing into the
garage, at night, we'll be able to *see* the driveway (instead of
relying on the feeble backup lights on the car)


It is more complicated than that on the one I have. There is a slotted
wheel optical emitter that monitors motor movement and shuts it down
if it is not seeing pulses at the expected rate.

It is easier to just buy a separate GDO receiver. I got one on Ebay
for $10 or so, to use as the portable "next" button on my tiki bar MP3
player.

http://gfretwell.com/ftp/next%20button.jpg

That picks a relay and makes the appropriate key on the keyboard card
that runs this

http://gfretwell.com/ftp/judybar.jpg

The whole thing runs on a PC using MPXPLAY a DOS application in DOXBOX
a W/XP application.

For your application, why not just add more lights to the light in the
opener?
My wife wants me to install "chase lights" in her dad's driveway
hooked to his opener.

Cute gal in the picture. The chase lights that you're looking for, are you trying to make the driveway resemble a runway to guide Dad in for a landing? ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Air Monster

On Mon, 28 Sep 2015 15:57:45 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 9/28/2015 3:07 PM, wrote:

I plan to install a momentary switch in one of the empty "knockouts" in
the car dash wired to the opener's xmtr with the "receiver" connected
to a light to illuminate the driveway. So, when backing into the
garage, at night, we'll be able to *see* the driveway (instead of
relying on the feeble backup lights on the car)

It is more complicated than that on the one I have. There is a slotted
wheel optical emitter that monitors motor movement and shuts it down
if it is not seeing pulses at the expected rate.

It is easier to just buy a separate GDO receiver. I got one on Ebay
for $10 or so, to use as the portable "next" button on my tiki bar MP3
player.

http://gfretwell.com/ftp/next%20button.jpg

That picks a relay and makes the appropriate key on the keyboard card
that runs this

http://gfretwell.com/ftp/judybar.jpg

The whole thing runs on a PC using MPXPLAY a DOS application in DOXBOX
a W/XP application.

For your application, why not just add more lights to the light in the
opener?

Don't want lights going on just because the door is opened.
Consider daylight. Also, want to be able to light up the
driveway when the door is NOT being opened.

I figure I can add a switch in a dashboard knockout in the one car
with the old "remote" unit, program one of the extra "HomeLink" remote
buttons in the other car and wire a pushbutton to the "manual
open" contacts for a "wall switch" just inside the garage door.

My wife wants me to install "chase lights" in her dad's driveway
hooked to his opener.

I want to build a Cylon visor (that's actually functional as sunglasses)
along the same lines! Would be wicked cool at night!

You are better off simply finding a stand alone receiver. They usually
run on 24vac and it is easy to find relays they will pick.
A lot of newer cars already have the "remote" built in.
My wife's Lincoln will run up to 3 different doors.

When we had the "car hoppers" here (thieves) I built something similar
to what you want. I had almost 1000 wats of spotlights connected to a
2440 SSR that was tripped with a GDO receiver. The transmitter had a
little 12v relay in it, connected to the dome light of my car.
They caught the crooks before they came back here.

That would light you up.

On Mon, 28 Sep 2015 16:31:41 -0700 (PDT), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Monday, September 28, 2015 at 5:07:54 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Mon, 28 Sep 2015 13:18:11 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 9/28/2015 1:04 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 28 Sep 2015 09:11:43 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 9/28/2015 8:22 AM, Jeff Wisnia wrote:
wrote:
What about the receivers that worked at receiving the signals from those
transmitters????

They are built into the sick/dead garage door openers, which ended up tossed
into a dumpster.

They're usually built onto the "back cover". When I replace an opener,
I pull that cover off and set it aside -- self-contained remote control
system (albeit one in an unusual form factor).

On the chamberlain/Crafstman GDO I have sitting on the bench right
now, the RF receiver is on the same card as the motor controller. It
is one FRU for just about everything .

Yes. And you can, for example, wire an arbitrary load in place of the motor
and have a "remote controlled" whatever.

I plan to install a momentary switch in one of the empty "knockouts" in
the car dash wired to the opener's xmtr with the "receiver" connected
to a light to illuminate the driveway. So, when backing into the
garage, at night, we'll be able to *see* the driveway (instead of
relying on the feeble backup lights on the car)


It is more complicated than that on the one I have. There is a slotted
wheel optical emitter that monitors motor movement and shuts it down
if it is not seeing pulses at the expected rate.

It is easier to just buy a separate GDO receiver. I got one on Ebay
for $10 or so, to use as the portable "next" button on my tiki bar MP3
player.

http://gfretwell.com/ftp/next%20button.jpg

That picks a relay and makes the appropriate key on the keyboard card
that runs this

http://gfretwell.com/ftp/judybar.jpg

The whole thing runs on a PC using MPXPLAY a DOS application in DOXBOX
a W/XP application.

For your application, why not just add more lights to the light in the
opener?
My wife wants me to install "chase lights" in her dad's driveway
hooked to his opener.

Cute gal in the picture. The chase lights that you're looking for, are you trying to make the driveway resemble a runway to guide Dad in for a landing? ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Air Monster

That is my lovely lady. The picture was back in the house building
days when the sun bleached her blonde. It really is more red if she
doesn't spend all day outside.

On 9/28/2015 5:46 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 28 Sep 2015 15:57:45 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 9/28/2015 3:07 PM, wrote:

I plan to install a momentary switch in one of the empty "knockouts" in
the car dash wired to the opener's xmtr with the "receiver" connected
to a light to illuminate the driveway. So, when backing into the
garage, at night, we'll be able to *see* the driveway (instead of
relying on the feeble backup lights on the car)

It is more complicated than that on the one I have. There is a slotted
wheel optical emitter that monitors motor movement and shuts it down
if it is not seeing pulses at the expected rate.

It is easier to just buy a separate GDO receiver. I got one on Ebay
for $10 or so, to use as the portable "next" button on my tiki bar MP3
player.

http://gfretwell.com/ftp/next%20button.jpg

That picks a relay and makes the appropriate key on the keyboard card
that runs this

http://gfretwell.com/ftp/judybar.jpg

The whole thing runs on a PC using MPXPLAY a DOS application in DOXBOX
a W/XP application.

For your application, why not just add more lights to the light in the
opener?

Don't want lights going on just because the door is opened.
Consider daylight. Also, want to be able to light up the
driveway when the door is NOT being opened.

I figure I can add a switch in a dashboard knockout in the one car
with the old "remote" unit, program one of the extra "HomeLink" remote
buttons in the other car and wire a pushbutton to the "manual
open" contacts for a "wall switch" just inside the garage door.

My wife wants me to install "chase lights" in her dad's driveway
hooked to his opener.

I want to build a Cylon visor (that's actually functional as sunglasses)
along the same lines! Would be wicked cool at night!

You are better off simply finding a stand alone receiver. They usually
run on 24vac and it is easy to find relays they will pick.

Then I would have to find a matching transmitter "remote" for "the one
car"...
I figure I can add a switch in a dashboard knockout in THE ONE CAR
with the old "remote" unit,

A lot of newer cars already have the "remote" built in.
My wife's Lincoln will run up to 3 different doors.

.... and, for "the other car"
program one of the extra "HomeLink" remote buttons in THE OTHER CAR

Then, still need a manual means of turning the lights on when *not*
in EITHER car:
and wire a pushbutton to the "manual open" contacts for a "wall switch"
just inside the garage door.

The receiver unit from the old door opener -- along with the matching
"remote" -- solves all of these problems, as is.

When we had the "car hoppers" here (thieves) I built something similar
to what you want. I had almost 1000 wats of spotlights connected to a
2440 SSR that was tripped with a GDO receiver. The transmitter had a
little 12v relay in it, connected to the dome light of my car.
They caught the crooks before they came back here.

That would light you up.

Cars are garaged. The *driveway* is the thing that wants to be
illuminated (to improve visibility when backing in as well as
when we're STANDING out there -- with the cars in the garage)

On Sunday, September 27, 2015 at 3:44:58 PM UTC-4, Jeff Wisnia wrote:
I just got through installing two new Sears Craftsman garage door
openers to replace the Craftsman openers I installed 30 years ago and
were performing intermittently, stopping or reversing when there were no
apparent overloads to the doors travel.

So, I sprung for two new Craftsman openers and they work slicker than
snot on a brass doorknob.

It was interesting to note how much lighter the main rail and traveling
components have become over that time, but they look like they'll
probably hold up for the rest of my years.

Anyway, the point is that I'm left with four working garage door
transmitters viz:

One Craftsman 139.53708 One Button Control
One Craftsman 139.53718 Three Button Control
Two Chamberlin Liftsmaster 61LM One button controls

That I'll never need.

These are all the earlier style transmitters with dip switches inside to
set the code.

I'd be happy to give them to folks on this group who could use them. I
think I can mail one or a pair of them in a padded envelope for less
than $5, so if someone wants them just email me after removing the
obvious upper case words from what shows here, and we'll work it out.


Jeff,

I'll take the 139.53708 off of your hands if it's still available.

Unfortunately I don't see anything that resembles an email address in your post. Maybe it's because I am using Google Groups.

My throwaway email address (backwards) is ten.tenze@sworrameat

Tell me how to get you the $5 and I'll send it your way. Thanks!

On Monday, September 28, 2015 at 7:47:08 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Mon, 28 Sep 2015 15:57:45 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 9/28/2015 3:07 PM, wrote:

I plan to install a momentary switch in one of the empty "knockouts" in
the car dash wired to the opener's xmtr with the "receiver" connected
to a light to illuminate the driveway. So, when backing into the
garage, at night, we'll be able to *see* the driveway (instead of
relying on the feeble backup lights on the car)

It is more complicated than that on the one I have. There is a slotted
wheel optical emitter that monitors motor movement and shuts it down
if it is not seeing pulses at the expected rate.

It is easier to just buy a separate GDO receiver. I got one on Ebay
for $10 or so, to use as the portable "next" button on my tiki bar MP3
player.

http://gfretwell.com/ftp/next%20button.jpg

That picks a relay and makes the appropriate key on the keyboard card
that runs this

http://gfretwell.com/ftp/judybar.jpg

The whole thing runs on a PC using MPXPLAY a DOS application in DOXBOX
a W/XP application.

For your application, why not just add more lights to the light in the
opener?

Don't want lights going on just because the door is opened.
Consider daylight. Also, want to be able to light up the
driveway when the door is NOT being opened.

I figure I can add a switch in a dashboard knockout in the one car
with the old "remote" unit, program one of the extra "HomeLink" remote
buttons in the other car and wire a pushbutton to the "manual
open" contacts for a "wall switch" just inside the garage door.

My wife wants me to install "chase lights" in her dad's driveway
hooked to his opener.

I want to build a Cylon visor (that's actually functional as sunglasses)
along the same lines! Would be wicked cool at night!

You are better off simply finding a stand alone receiver. They usually
run on 24vac and it is easy to find relays they will pick.
A lot of newer cars already have the "remote" built in.
My wife's Lincoln will run up to 3 different doors.

When we had the "car hoppers" here (thieves) I built something similar
to what you want. I had almost 1000 wats of spotlights connected to a
2440 SSR that was tripped with a GDO receiver. The transmitter had a
little 12v relay in it, connected to the dome light of my car.
They caught the crooks before they came back here.

That would light you up.

Me and my brother installed a motion detector flood light for a friend who had thieves sneaking into his small apartment complex to steal whatever they could. He caught a couple of Negro men dressed in black walking through the parking lot one night and they had come over the barbed wire fence behind the apartments. We installed the motion detector flood lights on the back wall but also connected a 120 vac Edwards signal horn to them. The thing went off one night and the next day he found bloody shreds of cloth on the barbed wire. We also installed the same sort of thing under a friend's large open shed in his back yard because critters from a housing project two blocks away were coming over his fence to steal tools and material. We used a microwave motion detector made for automatic doors and added a low voltage power relay to switch on a pair of 500 watt halogen flood lights along with an Edwards signal horn. I believe it went off a few times before word got around the housing project. It would go off every year whenever a new class of thugs graduated. Those vermin are a persistent lot. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Alarm Monster

On Monday, September 28, 2015 at 7:49:24 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Mon, 28 Sep 2015 16:31:41 -0700 (PDT), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Monday, September 28, 2015 at 5:07:54 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Mon, 28 Sep 2015 13:18:11 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 9/28/2015 1:04 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 28 Sep 2015 09:11:43 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 9/28/2015 8:22 AM, Jeff Wisnia wrote:
wrote:
What about the receivers that worked at receiving the signals from those
transmitters????

They are built into the sick/dead garage door openers, which ended up tossed
into a dumpster.

They're usually built onto the "back cover". When I replace an opener,
I pull that cover off and set it aside -- self-contained remote control
system (albeit one in an unusual form factor).

On the chamberlain/Crafstman GDO I have sitting on the bench right
now, the RF receiver is on the same card as the motor controller. It
is one FRU for just about everything .

Yes. And you can, for example, wire an arbitrary load in place of the motor
and have a "remote controlled" whatever.

I plan to install a momentary switch in one of the empty "knockouts" in
the car dash wired to the opener's xmtr with the "receiver" connected
to a light to illuminate the driveway. So, when backing into the
garage, at night, we'll be able to *see* the driveway (instead of
relying on the feeble backup lights on the car)


It is more complicated than that on the one I have. There is a slotted
wheel optical emitter that monitors motor movement and shuts it down
if it is not seeing pulses at the expected rate.

It is easier to just buy a separate GDO receiver. I got one on Ebay
for $10 or so, to use as the portable "next" button on my tiki bar MP3
player.

http://gfretwell.com/ftp/next%20button.jpg

That picks a relay and makes the appropriate key on the keyboard card
that runs this

http://gfretwell.com/ftp/judybar.jpg

The whole thing runs on a PC using MPXPLAY a DOS application in DOXBOX
a W/XP application.

For your application, why not just add more lights to the light in the
opener?
My wife wants me to install "chase lights" in her dad's driveway
hooked to his opener.

Cute gal in the picture. The chase lights that you're looking for, are you trying to make the driveway resemble a runway to guide Dad in for a landing? ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Air Monster

That is my lovely lady. The picture was back in the house building
days when the sun bleached her blonde. It really is more red if she
doesn't spend all day outside.

I was going to ask if she was some gorgeous gal you were trying to get drunk so you could take advantage of her. ~_^

I have a little red haired girlfriend (40 years old) whom I tease all the time and when her stepdaughter was 5 or 6, I would chase the Munchkin around threatening to unscrew her bellybutton so her behind would fall off. I tease all the girls regardless of their age. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Tease Monster

On Mon, 28 Sep 2015 21:21:49 -0700 (PDT), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Monday, September 28, 2015 at 7:47:08 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Mon, 28 Sep 2015 15:57:45 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 9/28/2015 3:07 PM, wrote:

I plan to install a momentary switch in one of the empty "knockouts" in
the car dash wired to the opener's xmtr with the "receiver" connected
to a light to illuminate the driveway. So, when backing into the
garage, at night, we'll be able to *see* the driveway (instead of
relying on the feeble backup lights on the car)

It is more complicated than that on the one I have. There is a slotted
wheel optical emitter that monitors motor movement and shuts it down
if it is not seeing pulses at the expected rate.

It is easier to just buy a separate GDO receiver. I got one on Ebay
for $10 or so, to use as the portable "next" button on my tiki bar MP3
player.

http://gfretwell.com/ftp/next%20button.jpg

That picks a relay and makes the appropriate key on the keyboard card
that runs this

http://gfretwell.com/ftp/judybar.jpg

The whole thing runs on a PC using MPXPLAY a DOS application in DOXBOX
a W/XP application.

For your application, why not just add more lights to the light in the
opener?

Don't want lights going on just because the door is opened.
Consider daylight. Also, want to be able to light up the
driveway when the door is NOT being opened.

I figure I can add a switch in a dashboard knockout in the one car
with the old "remote" unit, program one of the extra "HomeLink" remote
buttons in the other car and wire a pushbutton to the "manual
open" contacts for a "wall switch" just inside the garage door.

My wife wants me to install "chase lights" in her dad's driveway
hooked to his opener.

I want to build a Cylon visor (that's actually functional as sunglasses)
along the same lines! Would be wicked cool at night!

You are better off simply finding a stand alone receiver. They usually
run on 24vac and it is easy to find relays they will pick.
A lot of newer cars already have the "remote" built in.
My wife's Lincoln will run up to 3 different doors.

When we had the "car hoppers" here (thieves) I built something similar
to what you want. I had almost 1000 wats of spotlights connected to a
2440 SSR that was tripped with a GDO receiver. The transmitter had a
little 12v relay in it, connected to the dome light of my car.
They caught the crooks before they came back here.

That would light you up.

Me and my brother installed a motion detector flood light for a friend who had thieves sneaking into his small apartment complex to steal whatever they could. He caught a couple of Negro men dressed in black walking through the parking lot one night and they had come over the barbed wire fence behind the apartments. We installed the motion detector flood lights on the back wall but also connected a 120 vac Edwards signal horn to them. The thing went off one night and the next day he found bloody shreds of cloth on the barbed wire. We also installed the same sort of thing under a friend's large open shed in his back yard because critters from a housing project two blocks away were coming over his fence to steal tools and material. We used a microwave motion detector made for automatic doors and added a low voltage power relay to switch on a pair of 500 watt halogen flood lights along with an Edwards signal horn. I believe it went off a few times before word got around the housing
project. It would go off every year whenever a new class of thugs graduated. Those vermin are a persistent lot. ^_^


I have motion lights but we have too many critters around here for
them to be that much of a deterrent. They go on and off all night so I
have fairly small lamps in them.

I was really thinking about a dye squirter and some firecrackers on
this rig but it became unnecessary because I trapped them with a $2
bill the guy stole the week before
I gave the cops a picture of both sides of it with the SN and sent
them up to the shop and rob at the corner. It was under the cash
drawer and they knew who gave it to them.

DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, September 27, 2015 at 3:44:58 PM UTC-4, Jeff Wisnia wrote:
I just got through installing two new Sears Craftsman garage door
openers to replace the Craftsman openers I installed 30 years ago and
were performing intermittently, stopping or reversing when there were no
apparent overloads to the doors travel.

So, I sprung for two new Craftsman openers and they work slicker than
snot on a brass doorknob.

It was interesting to note how much lighter the main rail and traveling
components have become over that time, but they look like they'll
probably hold up for the rest of my years.

Anyway, the point is that I'm left with four working garage door
transmitters viz:

One Craftsman 139.53708 One Button Control
One Craftsman 139.53718 Three Button Control
Two Chamberlin Liftsmaster 61LM One button controls

That I'll never need.

These are all the earlier style transmitters with dip switches inside to
set the code.

I'd be happy to give them to folks on this group who could use them. I
think I can mail one or a pair of them in a padded envelope for less
than $5, so if someone wants them just email me after removing the
obvious upper case words from what shows here, and we'll work it out.


Jeff,

I'll take the 139.53708 off of your hands if it's still available.

Unfortunately I don't see anything that resembles an email address in your post. Maybe it's because I am using Google Groups.

My throwaway email address (backwards) is ten.tenze@sworrameat

Tell me how to get you the $5 and I'll send it your way. Thanks!

I'll email you directly.

Re my email address: I didn't realize that it must not always show up as
a "from:" in the header of a newsgroup post. I don't use Google Groups
much, so I didn't notice that a poster's email addresses probably
doesn't show.

I munged my email address for newsgroups years ago by inserting
"DUMPTHIS" in it to try and minimize the amount of spam I receive from
robot spammers.

Jeff

Jeff
--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.

On Tue, 29 Sep 2015 16:22:34 -0400, Jeff Wisnia
wrote:



DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, September 27, 2015 at 3:44:58 PM UTC-4, Jeff Wisnia wrote:
I just got through installing two new Sears Craftsman garage door
openers to replace the Craftsman openers I installed 30 years ago and
were performing intermittently, stopping or reversing when there were no
apparent overloads to the doors travel.

So, I sprung for two new Craftsman openers and they work slicker than
snot on a brass doorknob.

It was interesting to note how much lighter the main rail and traveling
components have become over that time, but they look like they'll
probably hold up for the rest of my years.

Anyway, the point is that I'm left with four working garage door
transmitters viz:

One Craftsman 139.53708 One Button Control
One Craftsman 139.53718 Three Button Control
Two Chamberlin Liftsmaster 61LM One button controls

That I'll never need.

These are all the earlier style transmitters with dip switches inside to
set the code.

I'd be happy to give them to folks on this group who could use them. I
think I can mail one or a pair of them in a padded envelope for less
than $5, so if someone wants them just email me after removing the
obvious upper case words from what shows here, and we'll work it out.


Jeff,

I'll take the 139.53708 off of your hands if it's still available.

Unfortunately I don't see anything that resembles an email address in your post. Maybe it's because I am using Google Groups.

My throwaway email address (backwards) is ten.tenze@sworrameat

Tell me how to get you the $5 and I'll send it your way. Thanks!

I'll email you directly.

Re my email address: I didn't realize that it must not always show up as
a "from:" in the header of a newsgroup post. I don't use Google Groups
much, so I didn't notice that a poster's email addresses probably
doesn't show.

I munged my email address for newsgroups years ago by inserting
"DUMPTHIS" in it to try and minimize the amount of spam I receive from
robot spammers.

Jeff

Jeff

It didn't show up for me either until I hit reply, then it was there.

wrote:
snipped

Re my email address: I didn't realize that it must not always show up as
a "from:" in the header of a newsgroup post. I don't use Google Groups
much, so I didn't notice that a poster's email addresses probably
doesn't show.

I munged my email address for newsgroups years ago by inserting
"DUMPTHIS" in it to try and minimize the amount of spam I receive from
robot spammers.

Jeff

It didn't show up for me either until I hit reply, then it was there.

I'm using SeaMonkey and Giganews for my newsgroup efforts and I see a
header on every post giving me:

Subject:....
From: (Poster's email address)
Date and time:
Newsgroup name:

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.

On Tuesday, September 29, 2015 at 4:37:37 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Tue, 29 Sep 2015 16:22:34 -0400, Jeff Wisnia
wrote:



DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, September 27, 2015 at 3:44:58 PM UTC-4, Jeff Wisnia wrote:
I just got through installing two new Sears Craftsman garage door
openers to replace the Craftsman openers I installed 30 years ago and
were performing intermittently, stopping or reversing when there were no
apparent overloads to the doors travel.

So, I sprung for two new Craftsman openers and they work slicker than
snot on a brass doorknob.

It was interesting to note how much lighter the main rail and traveling
components have become over that time, but they look like they'll
probably hold up for the rest of my years.

Anyway, the point is that I'm left with four working garage door
transmitters viz:

One Craftsman 139.53708 One Button Control
One Craftsman 139.53718 Three Button Control
Two Chamberlin Liftsmaster 61LM One button controls

That I'll never need.

These are all the earlier style transmitters with dip switches inside to
set the code.

I'd be happy to give them to folks on this group who could use them. I
think I can mail one or a pair of them in a padded envelope for less
than $5, so if someone wants them just email me after removing the
obvious upper case words from what shows here, and we'll work it out.


Jeff,

I'll take the 139.53708 off of your hands if it's still available.

Unfortunately I don't see anything that resembles an email address in your post. Maybe it's because I am using Google Groups.

My throwaway email address (backwards) is ten.tenze@sworrameat

Tell me how to get you the $5 and I'll send it your way. Thanks!

I'll email you directly.

Re my email address: I didn't realize that it must not always show up as
a "from:" in the header of a newsgroup post. I don't use Google Groups
much, so I didn't notice that a poster's email addresses probably
doesn't show.

I munged my email address for newsgroups years ago by inserting
"DUMPTHIS" in it to try and minimize the amount of spam I receive from
robot spammers.

Jeff

Jeff

It didn't show up for me either until I hit reply, then it was there.

It doesn't show for me even when I reply to Jeff's posts in GG. I see it in
your post because it showed up for you and was then quoted along with the rest
of the text.

On Tuesday, September 29, 2015 at 4:49:33 PM UTC-4, Jeff Wisnia wrote:
wrote:
snipped

Re my email address: I didn't realize that it must not always show up as
a "from:" in the header of a newsgroup post. I don't use Google Groups
much, so I didn't notice that a poster's email addresses probably
doesn't show.

I munged my email address for newsgroups years ago by inserting
"DUMPTHIS" in it to try and minimize the amount of spam I receive from
robot spammers.

Jeff

It didn't show up for me either until I hit reply, then it was there.

I'm using SeaMonkey and Giganews for my newsgroup efforts and I see a
header on every post giving me:

Subject:....
From: (Poster's email address)
Date and time:
Newsgroup name:

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.

People bitch at us Google Groupers, but I don't worry about it. Let 'em bitch.

I can't install a newsreader at work, so I'm forced to use GG during the day
(unless I want to actually work).

Since GG keeps track of what I've read, I can log into any browser on any
computer or my iPad or phone and pick up right where I left off, at work, at home or on the road.

On Tue, 29 Sep 2015 16:49:20 -0400, Jeff Wisnia
wrote:



wrote:
snipped

Re my email address: I didn't realize that it must not always show up as
a "from:" in the header of a newsgroup post. I don't use Google Groups
much, so I didn't notice that a poster's email addresses probably
doesn't show.

I munged my email address for newsgroups years ago by inserting
"DUMPTHIS" in it to try and minimize the amount of spam I receive from
robot spammers.

Jeff

It didn't show up for me either until I hit reply, then it was there.

I'm using SeaMonkey and Giganews for my newsgroup efforts and I see a
header on every post giving me:

Subject:....
From: (Poster's email address)
Date and time:
Newsgroup name:

Jeff

Ancient Agent here.

On Tue, 29 Sep 2015 16:21:23 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

Since GG keeps track of what I've read,

Google keeps track of what everyone read.

I used to set the "no archive" bit in my news reader but Google won't
show those posts at all. I guess they can't be trusted not to archive
them. I turned it off because several GG folks complained

On Tuesday, September 29, 2015 at 6:21:28 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, September 29, 2015 at 4:49:33 PM UTC-4, Jeff Wisnia wrote:
wrote:
snipped

Re my email address: I didn't realize that it must not always show up as
a "from:" in the header of a newsgroup post. I don't use Google Groups
much, so I didn't notice that a poster's email addresses probably
doesn't show.

I munged my email address for newsgroups years ago by inserting
"DUMPTHIS" in it to try and minimize the amount of spam I receive from
robot spammers.

Jeff

It didn't show up for me either until I hit reply, then it was there.

I'm using SeaMonkey and Giganews for my newsgroup efforts and I see a
header on every post giving me:

Subject:....
From: (Poster's email address)
Date and time:
Newsgroup name:

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.

People bitch at us Google Groupers, but I don't worry about it. Let 'em bitch.

I can't install a newsreader at work, so I'm forced to use GG during the day
(unless I want to actually work).

Since GG keeps track of what I've read, I can log into any browser on any
computer or my iPad or phone and pick up right where I left off, at work, at home or on the road.

Heck, I'm stuck with Google Groups since I'm using a Chromebook but I get almost everything done with Chromie my cute little 3 pound Chromebook. Like you wrote, anything I do using Google Groups is available and synced with any computer I access my Google account with. DD, do you use Google Drive? I have all my downloads, settings and documents stored within my Google Drive. I don't have to worry about losing information if my Chromebook is lost, stolen or destroyed and I can access all my stuff by using any other Internet connected device. I think that's pretty slick. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Chrome Monster

On Tuesday, September 29, 2015 at 7:55:42 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Tue, 29 Sep 2015 16:21:23 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

Since GG keeps track of what I've read,

Google keeps track of what everyone read.

I used to set the "no archive" bit in my news reader but Google won't
show those posts at all. I guess they can't be trusted not to archive
them. I turned it off because several GG folks complained

Google folks complain about everything, I know this because I are one. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Google Monster

replying to Jeff Wisnia, Grandpa wrote:
Hi there wondering if you still have garage door remotes from a few years ago
could really use them . Have really good older unit not concerned about
security cant afford new stuff. Let me know name is Morgan Im in
Alberta Canada

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ys-848468-.htm