On Fri, 21 Aug 2015 22:37:34 -0400, Unquestionably Confused wrote:

Here, Dave, this should be the manual you need:
http://www.apcmedia.com/salestools/EALN-7SEGRP/EALN-7SEGRP_R7_EN.pdf

Thanks! Based on the images etc., it does look like the correct manual.

Regards, Dave Hodgins

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On Fri, 21 Aug 2015 22:31:45 -0400, Unquestionably Confused wrote:

Also, look on the outside of your unit for a small (maybe 1"x3/8") white
bar code label it will have something like BX1300 or XB1300 on it. That
number means more than the model number emblazoned on the case of the UPS.

There are enough wires around it (it supplies two desktop computers, two
monitors, cable modem, sound amplifier, router, tv, and a light) that it
will be difficult to access without unplugging everything. As the battery
seems to be ok (just over 2 years old), I'll leave it where it is. It has
good air flow, and anytime I hear thunder, I turn everything off, including
the ups, an unplug it, just to be on the safe side. I trust it to handle
short outages, voltage spikes or drops, but not a nearby lightning strike.
I've lost a lot of electronic devices due to lightning strikes in the past.

I'll keep that in mind for when the battery eventually does go.

Regards, Dave Hodgins

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On Fri, 21 Aug 2015 16:42:40 -0400, J. P. Gilliver (John) wrote:

In message , David W. Hodgins
writes:
From the upsc command on my system ...
battery.type: PbAc

I presume that means lead-acid. (Most of this sort of thing use "SLA" -
sealed lead-acid - which have a gel inside rather than liquid, which
means the batteries can be used any way up.)

battery.voltage: 27.2
battery.voltage.nominal: 24.0

(Sounds healthy!) I'd guess two 12-volt ones.

It's either a single battery, or two in one case, so it looks like one.

Regards, Dave Hodgins

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On 8/22/2015 1:20 AM, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 22 Aug 2015 00:45:07 -0700, Don Y

For the record, it was a bad idea to trim off the other newsgroups. I
started this thread in XP and included this group because I thought
you'd be interested. It's only by chance I noticed the thread is longer
here, and if it hadn't been a lot longer, I would have missed all the
replies that followed a post that had ng snipped.

I choose the newsgroups that I want my posts to appear in.
If it ends up not being seen because you choose to read ONE of the
multiple groups to which you've cross-posted, so be it. *I'm*
not missing out on anything! :

Well la-di-da. FTR, alt.home.repair was a group I cross posted to. XP
was the group I posted to. I showed concern for you but you won't
show the same for me.

I took the time to reply. The fact that you didn't take the time to
chase down all replies that might originate in any of the different
groups that you included in your post isn't my worry.

If you'd prefer I *not* reply to any of your requests for information,
I can easily oblige...

On 8/22/2015 2:46 AM, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 21 Aug 2015 21:31:45 -0500, Unquestionably
Confused wrote:

[snip]



Do a Google Search for APC Back-UPS XS 1300G manual (the G is for
"Green", I believe) and you should find the manual you're looking for.

The manual, absolutely, but for replacement batteries, this won't work
and the manual won't either. They give the batteries silly names
like RBC2, RBC32, Replacement Battery Cartridge #32

Yes, they certainly do give them silly names like RBC2 and RCB32.
However, any battery supply house worthy of the name will have cross
references to the batteries used in perhaps the widest selling brand of
UPS devices.

APC and others with "proprietary" numbers count on some people being
idiots and unable or unwilling to look past the end of their fingertip
as the mouth the words in the owner's manuals.

On 8/22/2015 3:16 AM, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 21 Aug 2015 11:39:20 -0400, micky
wrote:

[snip]

What a system!

The other answers were valuable and I'm going to reply to them later,
but this is the answer I was looking for.

Somehow I was suspicious that this could happen, so I'll see if it's
happening to me.

Yes. First, even the one that was marked Working was like yours. It
did nothing when plugged in, but I brought it to the store and he let me

[snip]

Air can get in through any of the 8 3-prong holes for electric plugs
that are not being used. Or they can go out that way, but that puts all
the air near the back of the box. I suppose I should drill a couple
holes in the case, maybe 1/2? inch on each side. One inch?

So now the expert on Newsgroup posting has taken to replying to his own
posts? Wonderful. Take bit of your own "expert" advice and start
trimming your posts. We really don't need to read the entire thread
over and over. Nor, for that matter, do we need to know the saga of
your missing wallet and who, exactly found it and where.

Somehow I don't think your idea of drilling 1/2" or 1" holes in the case
of your UPS for added ventilation is the brightest idea. To ensure you
don't accidentally damage something and not have a working UPS when you
need it, I'd suggest drilling those holes while the unit is plugged in.
That way you'll know immediately if you damaged something.

On 8/22/2015 3:37 AM, David W. Hodgins wrote:
On Fri, 21 Aug 2015 22:37:34 -0400, Unquestionably Confused
wrote:

Here, Dave, this should be the manual you need:
http://www.apcmedia.com/salestools/EALN-7SEGRP/EALN-7SEGRP_R7_EN.pdf

Thanks! Based on the images etc., it does look like the correct manual.

Quite a few of those APC manuals actually cover a multitude of their
"models." The best indicator/reference is usually that little bar code
label reading "BX1300" or "BS1300" etc.

On 8/22/2015 3:50 AM, David W. Hodgins wrote:
On Fri, 21 Aug 2015 16:42:40 -0400, J. P. Gilliver (John)
wrote:

In message , David W. Hodgins
writes:
From the upsc command on my system ...
battery.type: PbAc

I presume that means lead-acid. (Most of this sort of thing use "SLA" -
sealed lead-acid - which have a gel inside rather than liquid, which
means the batteries can be used any way up.)

battery.voltage: 27.2
battery.voltage.nominal: 24.0

(Sounds healthy!) I'd guess two 12-volt ones.

It's either a single battery, or two in one case, so it looks like one.


No, you'll find that it's two batteries, in series, which is APC's
style. The two batteries will be joined by a piece of double-sided
sticky tape and connected in series using a little jumper (sometimes
with an inline fuse in the larger units.

As others have mentioned, just buy the appropriate replacement cells. I
just "re-batteried" two such units and used some clear 1½" packaging
tape to bind them together.

Piece of cake!

On Friday, August 21, 2015 at 11:05:38 PM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 8/21/2015 10:00 PM, Uncle Monster wrote:


Back home I have at least 4 desktop computers plugged into UPS units at one time and in my computer cave, I have a 1kw rack mount unit sitting on edge behind my 23" monitor and a pair of 500w units running the monitors, LED lights and networking equipment. When the power goes out, the only way I know is when the UPS units click, hum and beep. Back in January, I was home one night when the power went off and one 500w APC backup ran the LED desk lamps for 6.5 hours without a blink. I want to install new batteries in some of my collection of salvaged UPS units and plug LED lighting into them all around the house so there would be no danger of me tripping over something when the power goes out at night. I think everyone should buy some inexpensive backup units and plug in lamps around the house for those times when to power fails and people are stumbling around looking for flashlights and candles. LED lighting is most definitely safer than candles during a power outage. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle LED Monster


For about $10 you can get LED nightlights that come on bright and double
as a flashlight during a power failure. I also have two battery LED
lanterns that are nice and bright and will last 36 hours on a set of
batteries.

If I have my pants on, I have a flashlight on my belt and even on my key ring. If I get a new battery for each of my small backup power supplies and have the lamps in the living room and bedroom plugged into them, I won't have to worry about looking for a flashlight during a power failure. I even have an idea that I can adapt one for the lights in the bathroom because there is nothing worse than being in the shower or dropping a load of Ready Mix when the lights go out. I've been replacing CFL's with LED lamps when they fail so my lighting circuits could easily be adapted to run through a small UPS. I've purchased 120 volt A19 LED bulbs that produce an astonishingly amount of light from 85ma. It would be a fun project to have a home setup with a large UPS which uses those big Tesla produced batteries and a backup genset for those times when the grid is knocked out by a severe storm. I want to get back home so I can play with stuff. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Battery Monster

On 8/21/2015 10:36 PM, bob haller wrote:
some yeas agoi putmy dish network receiver and tv on my UPS.

one night we had a power failure. my wife at the time totally freaked out, the tv is on and nothing else is..

she was very funny, total freak

i quickly explained what was going on


Either that, or call a priest or appliance
repairman, and have the devil TV cast out.

I gave up broadcast TV about 20 years ago,
not much on. What I want, I can watch on
the computer.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

Try asking in http://forums.apc.com/ as well.


On 8/21/2015 6:09 AM, micky wrote:
I have 2 UPSes, both used, and one was marked Working when I bought it
for $7, and the other I might have gotten for free. I can't remember.

Batteries are not cheap of course. A couple webpages gave me the
impression that some people just buy a new UPS instead of replacing the
battery. That's not a sound plan financially, is it???? Surely a UPS
should outlive several batteries, unless there's a lightning strike.

The second question is, I've read the instructions but still not sure if
the second one works. The instructions are short and don't address my
issue

APC XS 900 .

Does there have to be a load for the Online light to go on? It's off.

A 60 watt lightbulb is as good a load as any, right?

OTOH, the Building Wiring Fault light is on, probably because somewhere
I lost the ground connection, but It's only plugged in for testing. Do
I have to plug it in somewhere with a ground to get the Online light to
go on?




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In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 21 Aug 2015 10:54:57 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 8/21/2015 6:09 AM, micky wrote:
I have 2 UPSes, both used, and one was marked Working when I bought it
for $7, and the other I might have gotten for free. I can't remember.

Batteries are not cheap of course. A couple webpages gave me the
impression that some people just buy a new UPS instead of replacing the
battery. That's not a sound plan financially, is it???? Surely a UPS
should outlive several batteries, unless there's a lightning strike.

In general, you should be able to replace the batteries and extend
the "life" of the UPS. The UPS manufacturer would like you to
purchase the batteries from *them* -- at a highly inflated price!

I tihnk you're right. I noticed that the $7 UPS had replacement dates
written on it 2002 and 2007, so maybe it was first used in 1997. It's
not that it lasted 8 years this time. The battery has probably been bad
for years.

However I tested it, and the DVDRt turned off when I unplugged the UPS.
It didnt' forget the list of programs to be recorded and that's the most
important thing. It takes me a long time to rebuild that list.

Most batteries are standard case sizes (sometimes there are ~0.1" differences)
Virtually all used in UPS's are 12V -- though some UPS's will use 1, 2 or
4 such batteries (12, 24 or 48V).

If yours uses more than one battery, it is usually wise to replace

Okay.

ALL at the same time; a "weak" battery will alter the way the charge is
shared among the batteries, typically shortening life.

If you opt to replace batteries, be sure to salvage any wiring harness
that is present. For a single battery, sometimes there is just a "fancy
connector" that transitions from the battery to the UPS. Other times,
there are wires (possibly including fusible links) interconnecting
the batteries within the "battery pack" (the batteries are sometimes
fastened together -- tape? -- to form a single unit).

I have a roll of 2-sided carpet tape, but haven't seen it in years.
It's not where it's supposed to be.

Almost all UPS batteries (at least SOHO units) have "spade"/faston
terminals. These come in two typical sizes -- 0.25 and 0.187 (IIRC).
Obviously, you don't want a battery that has a larger terminal than
the mating cable can accommodate (it won't fit on!). But, you also
don't want a battery with a smaller terminal (you'll end up with
a tenuous fit that could end up being a high resistance connection).

For battery "packs", you can also fabricate your own from discrete
batteries held together with 2" cellophane packing tape.

It is often tedious to extract the battery pack from many UPS's.
They are designed for a tight fit -- don't want the battery
flopping around in there as it represents a significant mass.

Often, failed batteries will "bloat" -- you will actually see
that they have EXPANDED/bulged during use. In this case, it
is often hard to extract the batteries ("tight fit"). Rather
than dismantling the UPS itself (which will leave you with
a bunch of DANGLING parts as they are "fitted" into the plastic
case; not held with fasteners!), try to loosen the appropriate
screws as if you were going to disassemble the case. This extra
"slop" usually makes it easier to remove the battery -- esp if
it has "bulged".

Of course, don't short the battery (new or used) as they are capable
of delivering a fair bit of current (e.g., hold your wedding band
across the battery terminals and feel it get HOT! : )

Dispose of defective batteries responsibly. They contain lead so
represent hazardous waste. There are usually places in town where
these can be recycled -- the lead is extracted, "cleaned up" and
then reused (to make NEW batteries).

The second question is, I've read the instructions but still not sure if
the second one works. The instructions are short and don't address my
issue

APC XS 900 .

Does there have to be a load for the Online light to go on? It's off.

A 60 watt lightbulb is as good a load as any, right?

Typically, you size the test load at 1/3 the nameplate rating of the
UPS. Too small and you aren't really checking to see that it can
handle a *reasonable* load. Too large and you'll probably get
failures from "old batteries".

Some UPS's will not turn on unless AC mains power is available.

One of the three had instructions to push the On button for 10 seconds
and it would turn on, so you can squeeze a few minutes out of your
equipment if you have to.

They call the APC instructions manuals, but theyr'e only 2 pages long,
and some are arranged funny, sort of horizontally, so when you enlarge
the PDF file to be big enough to read, I at least found it hard to read,
left to right, up and down.

Many (esp APC units) UPS's will do a battery test on startup
(and then periodically, thereafter). If the UPS complains
after/during this test, chances are your battery (or battery
connections) are faulty. (it's looking to see how much and how
quickly the battery voltage "sags" under that known test load)

Some UPS's will omit the test cycle if they detect a *missing*
battery pack -- but will perform the test if they detect a
present but "dead" battery pack! The former is useful: it
allows you to use the UPS as an "outlet strip/surge protector"
even if the backup function is not available (because the
battery is missing).

[I have a dozen UPS's here that primarily serve as "outlet
strips" -- I can turn off a computer and its monitor plus
any peripherals with that one button/switch -- instead of having
to turn off the individual items]

For UPS's that test batteries periodically, a failing battery can
screw you unexpectedly: the UPS goes to test the battery at some
"random" time by essentially switching to backup power. If the

I'd hate that.

battery is toast, your computer will now crash! (i.e., when the
battery is known to be dying/dead, just remove it until you
get a replacement)

OTOH, the Building Wiring Fault light is on, probably because somewhere
I lost the ground connection, but It's only plugged in for testing. Do
I have to plug it in somewhere with a ground to get the Online light to
go on?

To answer my own question, No. The problem was that the batteries
inside were dead. Two different model UPSes wouldnt' do a thing, not
even light up the Online light (which only means it has AC power), when
the batteries inside were dead. Not a design I approve of. I almost
thought one was totally broken, and I might have wasted time testing the
outlet, etc.