I'm about to replace carpet and want to fix some squeaky areas at the
same time.

Since I can tear off the carpet to do this, I don't need to use those
special snap off screws for carpet, right?

Can I just use a generic wood screw (countersunk flat head)?
Is 2 inch about right length?

On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 11:48:30 -0700, Bob wrote:

I'm about to replace carpet and want to fix some squeaky areas at the
same time.

Since I can tear off the carpet to do this, I don't need to use those
special snap off screws for carpet, right?

Can I just use a generic wood screw (countersunk flat head)?
Is 2 inch about right length?

1 5/8" screw may do well enough

Do you have access from a basement ceiling?

On 16 Jul 2015, Bob wrote in alt.home.repair:

I'm about to replace carpet and want to fix some squeaky areas at
the same time.

Since I can tear off the carpet to do this, I don't need to use
those special snap off screws for carpet, right?

Can I just use a generic wood screw (countersunk flat head)?
Is 2 inch about right length?

I'll be interested in the answers to this, as I plan to do the same
thing within the next few months. The carpet needs to be replaced, and
that will be the perfect opportunity to fix the many squeaks in the
floor.

On Thursday, July 16, 2015 at 2:48:03 PM UTC-4, Bob wrote:
I'm about to replace carpet and want to fix some squeaky areas at the
same time.

Since I can tear off the carpet to do this, I don't need to use those
special snap off screws for carpet, right?

Can I just use a generic wood screw (countersunk flat head)?
Is 2 inch about right length?

I believe that you want a screw with a enough unthreaded section of shaft so
that there are no threads in the sub-floor.

You want the head of the screw to pull the everything above the joist down
tightly onto the joist and not end up with a gap between the sub floor and
joist where the threads forced things apart.

If you have ever seen those tapered drill bits for pre-drilling wood screws,
they will often be wider at the top near the head for this reason.

If you have access to the joists from below, you might want to have someone
walk the floor while you locate the squeaks from below. Where possible,
inject construction adhesive between the joist and sub-floor before
screwing.

I'd use drywall screws. They're easy to drive in
and don't need to be pre-drilled in plywood or joists.
I don't actually use "wood screws" for anything.
If I need small screws I use sheet metal screws.
Better threads that drive better. Wood screws
are designed for hand drilling and hand screwing.

If you're going through oak you'll need to pre-drill
countersunk holes... and presumably be certain
that you'll never want to have that oak showing
again.

On Thursday, July 16, 2015 at 2:46:04 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, July 16, 2015 at 2:48:03 PM UTC-4, Bob wrote:
I'm about to replace carpet and want to fix some squeaky areas at the
same time.

Since I can tear off the carpet to do this, I don't need to use those
special snap off screws for carpet, right?

Can I just use a generic wood screw (countersunk flat head)?
Is 2 inch about right length?

I believe that you want a screw with a enough unthreaded section of shaft so
that there are no threads in the sub-floor.

You want the head of the screw to pull the everything above the joist down
tightly onto the joist and not end up with a gap between the sub floor and
joist where the threads forced things apart.

If you have ever seen those tapered drill bits for pre-drilling wood screws,
they will often be wider at the top near the head for this reason.

If you have access to the joists from below, you might want to have someone
walk the floor while you locate the squeaks from below. Where possible,
inject construction adhesive between the joist and sub-floor before
screwing.

I see an opening for a crude joke but I'm not going to do it. Nope, nope, nope.
^_^

[8~{} Uncle Squeaky Monster

On Thursday, July 16, 2015 at 3:48:57 PM UTC-4, Mayayana wrote:
I'd use drywall screws. They're easy to drive in
and don't need to be pre-drilled in plywood or joists.
I don't actually use "wood screws" for anything.
If I need small screws I use sheet metal screws.
Better threads that drive better. Wood screws
are designed for hand drilling and hand screwing.

If you're going through oak you'll need to pre-drill
countersunk holes... and presumably be certain
that you'll never want to have that oak showing
again.

drywall screws arent designed to be strong, they may break, and the noise will return

deck screws would be better

bob haller wrote:
On Thursday, July 16, 2015 at 3:48:57 PM UTC-4, Mayayana wrote:
I'd use drywall screws. They're easy to drive in
and don't need to be pre-drilled in plywood or joists.
I don't actually use "wood screws" for anything.
If I need small screws I use sheet metal screws.
Better threads that drive better. Wood screws
are designed for hand drilling and hand screwing.

If you're going through oak you'll need to pre-drill
countersunk holes... and presumably be certain
that you'll never want to have that oak showing
again.

drywall screws arent designed to be strong, they may break, and the
noise will return

deck screws would be better

I'll second the deck screws . The length should be long enough to put at
least 1/2 the screw into the joist , minimum of 3" assuming 3/4 under and
3/4 decking . Do be sure to hit the joists , otherwise you're just wasting
your time .

--
Snag

On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 11:48:30 -0700, Bob wrote:

I'm about to replace carpet and want to fix some squeaky areas at the
same time.

Since I can tear off the carpet to do this, I don't need to use those
special snap off screws for carpet, right?

Can I just use a generic wood screw (countersunk flat head)?
Is 2 inch about right length?
I put about 5 lbs of deck screws in my livingroom and diningroom
floor before I installed the hardwood, and another couple of lbs in
the hallway and stairway before replacing the carpet. IIRC I used 2
inchers -same screws used to put down 5/4 decking.

It all depend of thickness of your floor is it singular sheetrock or double
only you can determine requirement. if your floor is 2" thick well you need
2" screw
but if your floor is only 3/4 then you need 3/4" screw.
However if plies are separating you got problem?

"Bob" wrote in message ...

I'm about to replace carpet and want to fix some squeaky areas at the
same time.

Since I can tear off the carpet to do this, I don't need to use those
special snap off screws for carpet, right?

Can I just use a generic wood screw (countersunk flat head)?
Is 2 inch about right length?

On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 14:37:44 -0700, "tony944" wrote:

if your floor is 2" thick well you need
2" screw but if your floor is only 3/4 then you need 3/4" screw.

Please explain how the screws fasten to the joist when the length only
matches thickness of the flooring.

The object is to stop "squeaky" floors.

| drywall screws arent designed to be strong, they may break, and the noise
will return
|
| deck screws would be better

Deck screws are fine, but they're more expensive.
Drywall screws only break when twisted. If they
don't snap driving into something hard there's no
worry that they snap off just from wood swelling.
I'm imagining a plywood subfloor where the OP
can afford to put in lots of screws.

On 7/16/2015 3:41 PM, Nil wrote:
On 16 Jul 2015, Bob wrote in alt.home.repair:

Can I just use a generic wood screw (countersunk flat head)?
Is 2 inch about right length?

I'll be interested in the answers to this, as I plan to do the same
thing within the next few months. The carpet needs to be replaced, and
that will be the perfect opportunity to fix the many squeaks in the
floor.


I remember some thing about ring nails,
less likely to pull out. But that's a
rather old memory.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 14:37:44 -0700, "tony944" wrote:

It all depend of thickness of your floor is it singular sheetrock or double
only you can determine requirement. if your floor is 2" thick well you need
2" screw
but if your floor is only 3/4 then you need 3/4" screw.
However if plies are separating you got problem?

"Bob" wrote in message ...

I'm about to replace carpet and want to fix some squeaky areas at the
same time.

Since I can tear off the carpet to do this, I don't need to use those
special snap off screws for carpet, right?

Can I just use a generic wood screw (countersunk flat head)?
Is 2 inch about right length?
A 2 inch scew won't do diddly on a 2 inch thick floor. Ditto for a
3/4" on a 3/4" floor.

On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 17:53:35 -0400, "Mayayana"
wrote:

| drywall screws arent designed to be strong, they may break, and the noise
will return
|
| deck screws would be better

Deck screws are fine, but they're more expensive.
Drywall screws only break when twisted. If they
don't snap driving into something hard there's no
worry that they snap off just from wood swelling.
I'm imagining a plywood subfloor where the OP
can afford to put in lots of screws.

I tried drywall screws They are no good because they are threaded all
the way, and you break too many of them trying to pull the subfloor
down. I guess they'd be OK on an OSB floor - - -

On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 19:19:01 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 7/16/2015 3:41 PM, Nil wrote:
On 16 Jul 2015, Bob wrote in alt.home.repair:

Can I just use a generic wood screw (countersunk flat head)?
Is 2 inch about right length?

I'll be interested in the answers to this, as I plan to do the same
thing within the next few months. The carpet needs to be replaced, and
that will be the perfect opportunity to fix the many squeaks in the
floor.


I remember some thing about ring nails,
less likely to pull out. But that's a
rather old memory.
Ring nails were used in the days before power screw drivers - and
they don't hold any better now than they did then. It is because of
ring nails that people now have squeaky floors to fix with screws.

On 16 Jul 2015, wrote in alt.home.repair:

Ring nails were used in the days before power screw drivers - and
they don't hold any better now than they did then. It is because
of ring nails that people now have squeaky floors to fix with
screws.

How is that? Is there some problem with ring nails compared to regular
smooth nails?

On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 22:21:32 -0400, Nil
wrote:

On 16 Jul 2015, wrote in alt.home.repair:

Ring nails were used in the days before power screw drivers - and
they don't hold any better now than they did then. It is because
of ring nails that people now have squeaky floors to fix with
screws.

How is that? Is there some problem with ring nails compared to regular
smooth nails?
Nope - but ALL nails will loosen over time.
Ring nails were better than plain nails, but not as good as screws.
All of my flooring was nailed. Other than the hardwood in the
bedrooms, ALL of my flooring is now screwed down. So are all the
planks on my deck, and the Trex on my front porch..

The only squeaks in my floors now are in the bedrooms - one squeak in
the master that gets worse in the winter when the humidity drops., and
one intermittent squeak in the spare bedroom

On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 19:19:01 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 7/16/2015 3:41 PM, Nil wrote:
On 16 Jul 2015, Bob wrote in alt.home.repair:

Can I just use a generic wood screw (countersunk flat head)?
Is 2 inch about right length?

I'll be interested in the answers to this, as I plan to do the same
thing within the next few months. The carpet needs to be replaced, and
that will be the perfect opportunity to fix the many squeaks in the
floor.


I remember some thing about ring nails,
less likely to pull out. But that's a
rather old memory.

I'm not saying where it would work and where it wouldn't work, or if it
would work or even help on floors, but when one is using nails, if you
don't want them to come out and you can do it, it's best to put the
nails in at different angles, maybe as much as 90^ apart. Some leaning
45^ one direction and others leaning the other direction. That way,
nail A keeps nail B from coming out, even if it gets loose, and nail B
keeps nail A from coming out.

I also don't know how floors and anything else are nailed but I can
imagine a guy staying on one side of the work, putting in all the nails
in exactly the same direction.

On Thu, 16 Jul 2015 15:49:15 -0400, "Mayayana"
wrote:

I'd use drywall screws. They're easy to drive in
and don't need to be pre-drilled in plywood or joists.
I don't actually use "wood screws" for anything.
If I need small screws I use sheet metal screws.
Better threads that drive better. Wood screws
are designed for hand drilling and hand screwing.

It's people like you who are causing the collapse of the wood-screw
market.

My widowed sister-in-law invested all her money in wood-screw futures
and now she can't pay the mortgage and is being evicted from her house.

If you're going through oak you'll need to pre-drill
countersunk holes... and presumably be certain
that you'll never want to have that oak showing
again.

Good point. You're forgiven, and I'll try to get my sister-in-law to
agree.

On Thursday, July 16, 2015 at 10:09:31 PM UTC-5, wrote:


Ring nails were used in the days before power screw drivers - and
they don't hold any better now than they did then. It is because
of ring nails that people now have squeaky floors to fix with
screws.

How is that? Is there some problem with ring nails compared to regular
smooth nails?

Nope - but ALL nails will loosen over time.
Ring nails were better than plain nails, but not as good as screws.
All of my flooring was nailed. Other than the hardwood in the
bedrooms, ALL of my flooring is now screwed down.

Nailed floors are somewhat OK for floors covered by hardwood or carpet. But nailed floors covered with vinyl tile or linoleum is pitiful! After some years every nail in the floor will show as a raised bump. That's because the rings are smaller than screw threads and will raise up faster with expansion/contraction with temperature/humidity changes. Believe me, I know from experience.

On Fri, 17 Jul 2015 19:54:45 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Thursday, July 16, 2015 at 10:09:31 PM UTC-5, wrote:


Ring nails were used in the days before power screw drivers - and
they don't hold any better now than they did then. It is because
of ring nails that people now have squeaky floors to fix with
screws.

How is that? Is there some problem with ring nails compared to regular
smooth nails?

Nope - but ALL nails will loosen over time.
Ring nails were better than plain nails, but not as good as screws.
All of my flooring was nailed. Other than the hardwood in the
bedrooms, ALL of my flooring is now screwed down.

Nailed floors are somewhat OK for floors covered by hardwood or carpet. But nailed floors covered with vinyl tile or linoleum is pitiful! After some years every nail in the floor will show as a raised bump. That's because the rings are smaller than screw threads and will raise up faster with expansion/contraction with temperature/humidity changes. Believe me, I know from experience.


And unless the subfloor is glued down as well as nailed, it will
squeak long before the nail-pops show through the vinyl or linoleum.

That said, I'd rather hit my head on a ring nail than a screw - I
know what the ring nail feels like, and can only imagine how much more
the nail would hurt. My head was hard enough to drive the nail up
through the linoleum - and I'm sure it would not have been hard enough
to drive the screw up!!!!