I know we've heard this before but here is a first-hand story, at least
for me.

A friend writes:

Phone didn't work, even though battery had substantial charge.

At the T-Mobile service center, the rep opened the phone and showed me
that it was wet inside. Why? When I turned on the water at the
fountain, there was a surge that thoroughly doused my pants and sport
jacket. Even though the phone was in my shirt pocket underneath the
jacket and was partially protected by a rubberized case. enough water
managed to seep in to cause the phone to malfunction. The rep suggested
that before I opted for a replacement phone, I should disassemble the
phone (basically taking the battery and SIM card out) and immerse it in
bowl of uncooked rice for 24 hours. It worked! I mentioned this to a
number of people who were aware of this "folk remedy”. Silica gel would
even be better as a desiccant, but it is not exactly a household item.

On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 01:51:13 -0400, wrote:

On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 01:37:06 -0400, micky
wrote:

I know we've heard this before but here is a first-hand story, at least
for me.

A friend writes:

Phone didn't work, even though battery had substantial charge.

At the T-Mobile service center, the rep opened the phone and showed me
that it was wet inside. Why? When I turned on the water at the
fountain, there was a surge that thoroughly doused my pants and sport
jacket. Even though the phone was in my shirt pocket underneath the
jacket and was partially protected by a rubberized case. enough water
managed to seep in to cause the phone to malfunction. The rep suggested
that before I opted for a replacement phone, I should disassemble the
phone (basically taking the battery and SIM card out) and immerse it in
bowl of uncooked rice for 24 hours. It worked! I mentioned this to a
number of people who were aware of this "folk remedy”. Silica gel would
even be better as a desiccant, but it is not exactly a household item.


Silica gel works a whole lot better. You can get in bulk.

https://www.sorbentsystems.com/bulksorbents.html

If anyone should have that, it shoudl be T-mobile or a fix-it shop. Are
there any fix-it shops?

For my friend, it was more important to use the rice right away than
wait for the stuff to come in the mail.

BTW, I've heard of absorbents, but never sorbents. I'm sure there's a
joke there somewhere.

But thanks for the link. I'll send it to him. He won't likely buy any,
but I'm sure he's interested.

On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 01:37:06 -0400, micky
wrote:

I know we've heard this before but here is a first-hand story, at least
for me.

A friend writes:

Phone didn't work, even though battery had substantial charge.

At the T-Mobile service center, the rep opened the phone and showed me
that it was wet inside. Why? When I turned on the water at the
fountain, there was a surge that thoroughly doused my pants and sport
jacket. Even though the phone was in my shirt pocket underneath the
jacket and was partially protected by a rubberized case. enough water
managed to seep in to cause the phone to malfunction. The rep suggested
that before I opted for a replacement phone, I should disassemble the
phone (basically taking the battery and SIM card out) and immerse it in
bowl of uncooked rice for 24 hours. It worked! I mentioned this to a
number of people who were aware of this "folk remedy”. Silica gel would
even be better as a desiccant, but it is not exactly a household item.

I have read that the best thing to do if you get your phone wet is to
not turn it on. Turning it on while wet could damage it more easily.
Use a vacuum cleaner and then bowl of rice.

On Monday, July 13, 2015 at 6:00:34 AM UTC-4, Seymore4Head wrote:
On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 01:37:06 -0400, micky
wrote:

I know we've heard this before but here is a first-hand story, at least
for me.

A friend writes:

Phone didn't work, even though battery had substantial charge.

At the T-Mobile service center, the rep opened the phone and showed me
that it was wet inside. Why? When I turned on the water at the
fountain, there was a surge that thoroughly doused my pants and sport
jacket. Even though the phone was in my shirt pocket underneath the
jacket and was partially protected by a rubberized case. enough water
managed to seep in to cause the phone to malfunction. The rep suggested
that before I opted for a replacement phone, I should disassemble the
phone (basically taking the battery and SIM card out) and immerse it in
bowl of uncooked rice for 24 hours. It worked! I mentioned this to a
number of people who were aware of this "folk remedy". Silica gel would
even be better as a desiccant, but it is not exactly a household item.

I have read that the best thing to do if you get your phone wet is to
not turn it on. Turning it on while wet could damage it more easily.
Use a vacuum cleaner and then bowl of rice.

Heating the phone with a hair dryer set on low also works, since it evaporates the water quickly....

On Monday, July 13, 2015 at 5:00:34 AM UTC-5, Seymore4Head wrote:

I have read that the best thing to do if you get your phone wet is to
not turn it on. Turning it on while wet could damage it more easily.
Use a vacuum cleaner and then bowl of rice.

The best thing is remove the battery and SIM card quickly, as most, if not all, cell phones are technically always on (like most things today, it's a "soft" off).

On 07/13/2015 08:10 AM, bob haller wrote:

I know we've heard this before but here is a first-hand story, at least
for me.

A friend writes:

Phone didn't work, even though battery had substantial charge.

At the T-Mobile service center, the rep opened the phone and showed me
that it was wet inside. Why? When I turned on the water at the
fountain, there was a surge that thoroughly doused my pants and sport
jacket. Even though the phone was in my shirt pocket underneath the
jacket and was partially protected by a rubberized case. enough water
managed to seep in to cause the phone to malfunction. The rep suggested
that before I opted for a replacement phone, I should disassemble the
phone (basically taking the battery and SIM card out) and immerse it in
bowl of uncooked rice for 24 hours. It worked! I mentioned this to a
number of people who were aware of this "folk remedy". Silica gel would
even be better as a desiccant, but it is not exactly a household item.

I have read that the best thing to do if you get your phone wet is to
not turn it on. Turning it on while wet could damage it more easily.
Use a vacuum cleaner and then bowl of rice.

Heating the phone with a hair dryer set on low also works, since it evaporates the water quickly....

My reservation about all these suggested methods of drying out the phone
is that they do nothing about whatever dissolved salts that were in the
water, the residue of which could be conductive or otherwise harmful to
delicate electronics. My inclination would be to rinse it with deionized
or distilled water first, and only then dry it out by whatever method is
safest.

Perce

On Monday, July 13, 2015 at 7:10:46 AM UTC-5, bob haller wrote:
On Monday, July 13, 2015 at 6:00:34 AM UTC-4, Seymore4Head wrote:
On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 01:37:06 -0400, micky
wrote:

I know we've heard this before but here is a first-hand story, at least
for me.

A friend writes:

Phone didn't work, even though battery had substantial charge.

At the T-Mobile service center, the rep opened the phone and showed me
that it was wet inside. Why? When I turned on the water at the
fountain, there was a surge that thoroughly doused my pants and sport
jacket. Even though the phone was in my shirt pocket underneath the
jacket and was partially protected by a rubberized case. enough water
managed to seep in to cause the phone to malfunction. The rep suggested
that before I opted for a replacement phone, I should disassemble the
phone (basically taking the battery and SIM card out) and immerse it in
bowl of uncooked rice for 24 hours. It worked! I mentioned this to a
number of people who were aware of this "folk remedy". Silica gel would
even be better as a desiccant, but it is not exactly a household item.

I have read that the best thing to do if you get your phone wet is to
not turn it on. Turning it on while wet could damage it more easily.
Use a vacuum cleaner and then bowl of rice.

Heating the phone with a hair dryer set on low also works, since it evaporates the water quickly....

You must be careful to let it cool before turning it on. And if it has a removable battery, remove it first. Batteries in cell phones and other electronics have thermal fuses or polyfuses that could brick a battery if it gets too hot. Turning on a hot smart phone can damage the CPU which is a problem that GM is addressing with its design for an AC cooled compartment for phones that will be built into the dash of new GM vehicles. 8-)

http://www.droid-life.com/2015/07/02...phone-cooling/

http://archive.ksdk.com/rss/article/...ve-heat-stroke

[8~{} Uncle Phone Monster

On Monday, July 13, 2015 at 1:37:11 AM UTC-4, micky wrote:
I know we've heard this before but here is a first-hand story, at least
for me.

A friend writes:

Phone didn't work, even though battery had substantial charge.

At the T-Mobile service center, the rep opened the phone and showed me
that it was wet inside. Why? When I turned on the water at the
fountain, there was a surge that thoroughly doused my pants and sport
jacket. Even though the phone was in my shirt pocket underneath the
jacket and was partially protected by a rubberized case. enough water
managed to seep in to cause the phone to malfunction. The rep suggested
that before I opted for a replacement phone, I should disassemble the
phone (basically taking the battery and SIM card out) and immerse it in
bowl of uncooked rice for 24 hours. It worked! I mentioned this to a
number of people who were aware of this "folk remedy". Silica gel would
even be better as a desiccant, but it is not exactly a household item.

I've been using the rice method for a number of years. I don't recall that it has ever failed me. My most recent use was when the remote sensor for my indoor-outdoor thermometer fell out of its mount and laid in the rain for at least 8 hours. When I picked it up the water literally poured out of it. Luckily, the batteries popped out when it hit the ground so I don't think it was ever powered up while wet.

24 hours in glass of rice and it powered right up and starting sending signals to the base unit.

The previous time was when I left a cooking thermometer/timer on the deck next to the grill. There was water sloshing around inside the LCD display. The switch was in the On position, but the display was blank. This unit does not time out, so I was a bit worried. I turned the unit off (before even moving it) then took out the battery, shook out as much water as I could and buried it in rice for a few days. I popped the batteries back in and I've been using it for about 6 months now.

[snip of the rice suggestion. Also hair dryers..]

A basic air flow from any type of fan, including sitting
it in the vent of an air conditioner or a spare 12VDC
computer fan, or pretty much anything, will work every
bit as well as a hot air stream (from that hair dryer).

It just means taking a bit longer.

Much safer.


--
__________________________________________________ ___
Knowledge may be power, but communications is the key

[to foil spammers, my address has been double rot-13 encoded]

On Monday, July 13, 2015 at 10:07:36 AM UTC-5, danny burstein wrote:
[snip of the rice suggestion. Also hair dryers..]

A basic air flow from any type of fan, including sitting
it in the vent of an air conditioner or a spare 12VDC
computer fan, or pretty much anything, will work every
bit as well as a hot air stream (from that hair dryer).

It just means taking a bit longer.

I worked for a company that maintained POS systems for Walgreen (when they were in IL mainly, before they expanded nationally). If we had repair PCB's that had smoke, rodent or bug feces, or spills...it was common practice to hot water power wash (not high pressure) and compressor air dry. I had and never heard of a board not surviving the procedure.

On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 05:10:42 -0700 (PDT), bob haller
wrote:

On Monday, July 13, 2015 at 6:00:34 AM UTC-4, Seymore4Head wrote:
On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 01:37:06 -0400, micky
wrote:

I know we've heard this before but here is a first-hand story, at least
for me.

A friend writes:

Phone didn't work, even though battery had substantial charge.

At the T-Mobile service center, the rep opened the phone and showed me
that it was wet inside. Why? When I turned on the water at the
fountain, there was a surge that thoroughly doused my pants and sport
jacket. Even though the phone was in my shirt pocket underneath the
jacket and was partially protected by a rubberized case. enough water
managed to seep in to cause the phone to malfunction. The rep suggested
that before I opted for a replacement phone, I should disassemble the
phone (basically taking the battery and SIM card out) and immerse it in
bowl of uncooked rice for 24 hours. It worked! I mentioned this to a
number of people who were aware of this "folk remedy". Silica gel would
even be better as a desiccant, but it is not exactly a household item.

I have read that the best thing to do if you get your phone wet is to
not turn it on. Turning it on while wet could damage it more easily.
Use a vacuum cleaner and then bowl of rice.

Heating the phone with a hair dryer set on low also works, since it evaporates the water quickly....
Evaporating the water leaves any disolved solids behind. Absorbing
the water with a dessicant leaves less behind, as it can absorb the
solids as well.

The secret is to get the battery out as soon as possible, and shake
out as much water as possible - avoid "wet shorts" that put voltage
where it does not belong - which can permanently kill the phone.

On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 15:07:31 +0000 (UTC), danny burstein
wrote:

[snip of the rice suggestion. Also hair dryers..]

A basic air flow from any type of fan, including sitting
it in the vent of an air conditioner or a spare 12VDC
computer fan, or pretty much anything, will work every
bit as well as a hot air stream (from that hair dryer).

It just means taking a bit longer.

Much safer.
The advantage of an air conditioner is it is "dry" air. (and won't
overheat anything)

On 07/13/2015 07:26 AM, bob_villa wrote:
On Monday, July 13, 2015 at 5:00:34 AM UTC-5, Seymore4Head wrote:

I have read that the best thing to do if you get your phone wet is to
not turn it on. Turning it on while wet could damage it more easily.
Use a vacuum cleaner and then bowl of rice.

The best thing is remove the battery and SIM card quickly, as most, if not all, cell phones are technically always on (like most things today, it's a "soft" off).


Considering "off", I once measured the electrical power used by a cable
box when "off". It was indistinguishable from the power it used when on.

--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us/

"Fierce invectives against women form a conspicuous and grotesque
portion of the writings of the Church fathers." -- William E. H. Lecky
(1838-1903), Irish historian

On Monday, July 13, 2015 at 12:05:04 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 05:10:42 -0700 (PDT), bob haller
wrote:

On Monday, July 13, 2015 at 6:00:34 AM UTC-4, Seymore4Head wrote:
On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 01:37:06 -0400, micky
wrote:

I know we've heard this before but here is a first-hand story, at least
for me.

A friend writes:

Phone didn't work, even though battery had substantial charge.

At the T-Mobile service center, the rep opened the phone and showed me
that it was wet inside. Why? When I turned on the water at the
fountain, there was a surge that thoroughly doused my pants and sport
jacket. Even though the phone was in my shirt pocket underneath the
jacket and was partially protected by a rubberized case. enough water
managed to seep in to cause the phone to malfunction. The rep suggested
that before I opted for a replacement phone, I should disassemble the
phone (basically taking the battery and SIM card out) and immerse it in
bowl of uncooked rice for 24 hours. It worked! I mentioned this to a
number of people who were aware of this "folk remedy". Silica gel would
even be better as a desiccant, but it is not exactly a household item.

I have read that the best thing to do if you get your phone wet is to
not turn it on. Turning it on while wet could damage it more easily.
Use a vacuum cleaner and then bowl of rice.

Heating the phone with a hair dryer set on low also works, since it evaporates the water quickly....
Evaporating the water leaves any disolved solids behind. Absorbing
the water with a dessicant leaves less behind, as it can absorb the
solids as well.


Really? Inquiring minds want to know when the water molecule leaves
the circuit board inside the phone, how does it know if it's going
to just wander off with the air into the breeze, or if it's going
to wind up in the desiccant that's outside the phone so it needs to
bring it's buddy solid molecules along? Does it phone ahead?
I'm sure I'll now be on Clare's double secret ignore list.
Just the facts.

On Monday, July 13, 2015 at 12:07:37 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 15:07:31 +0000 (UTC), danny burstein
wrote:

[snip of the rice suggestion. Also hair dryers..]

A basic air flow from any type of fan, including sitting
it in the vent of an air conditioner or a spare 12VDC
computer fan, or pretty much anything, will work every
bit as well as a hot air stream (from that hair dryer).

It just means taking a bit longer.

Much safer.
The advantage of an air conditioner is it is "dry" air. (and won't
overheat anything)

Wow, you figured that out?

On 7/13/2015 12:07 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 15:07:31 +0000 (UTC), danny burstein
wrote:

[snip of the rice suggestion. Also hair dryers..]

A basic air flow from any type of fan, including sitting
it in the vent of an air conditioner or a spare 12VDC
computer fan, or pretty much anything, will work every
bit as well as a hot air stream (from that hair dryer).

It just means taking a bit longer.

Much safer.
The advantage of an air conditioner is it is "dry" air. (and won't
overheat anything)


My copier repair people used to tell me to put
my copier paper in the frost free refrigerator
to to dry it out, so it copies better. Likely
would also dry out cell phones, like it does
jello.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 05:43:50 -0700 (PDT), Uncle Monster
wrote:



You must be careful to let it cool before turning it on. And if it has a re=
movable battery, remove it first. Batteries in cell phones and other electr=
onics have thermal fuses or polyfuses that could brick a battery if it gets=
too hot. Turning on a hot smart phone can damage the CPU which is a proble=
m that GM is addressing with its design for an AC cooled compartment for ph=
ones that will be built into the dash of new GM vehicles. 8-)

So will the AC will have to run int he winter too? Including the
full-size compressor? Since the dash is in the passgenger compartment,
warmed by the heater?

http://www.droid-life.com/2015/07/02...phone-cooling/

"The system only runs when drivers turn on the HVAC system."

This is ambigous. If it had said only runs when drivers turn on the
AC**, that woudl answer my question, but they include the heat. So if
it's cold out and people are using the heat, that means the HVAC system
is on.

**I suppose this is what they mean but I just wish people woudl pay more
attenttion to what they say.

http://archive.ksdk.com/rss/article/...e-heat=-stroke

[8~{} Uncle Phone Monster

Why can't they use that semiconductor cooler, with no moving parts, like
is used in picnic coolers? Don't those work?

On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 12:09:52 -0400, wrote:

On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 08:39:29 -0700 (PDT), bob_villa
wrote:

On Monday, July 13, 2015 at 10:07:36 AM UTC-5, danny burstein wrote:
[snip of the rice suggestion. Also hair dryers..]

A basic air flow from any type of fan, including sitting
it in the vent of an air conditioner or a spare 12VDC
computer fan, or pretty much anything, will work every
bit as well as a hot air stream (from that hair dryer).

It just means taking a bit longer.

I worked for a company that maintained POS systems for Walgreen (when they were in IL mainly, before they expanded nationally). If we had repair PCB's that had smoke, rodent or bug feces, or spills...it was common practice to hot water power wash (not high pressure) and compressor air dry. I had and never heard of a board not surviving the procedure.

The problem with wet phones is they are usually powered on and
something fries on the board.

His was definitely on. That's how he knew it didn't work!!

The only good news is the flash card and
the SIM card usually survive. I found one on the beach that had been
in the water for quite a while but I was able to read the flash card
and find out enough to get it to the original owner.
It was more a "note in a bottle" moment than actually returning
anything of real value. It was in the water for weeks.

Cell phones can't swim well. They should wear Mae Wests.

On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 12:09:52 -0400, wrote:

On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 08:39:29 -0700 (PDT), bob_villa
wrote:

On Monday, July 13, 2015 at 10:07:36 AM UTC-5, danny burstein wrote:
[snip of the rice suggestion. Also hair dryers..]

A basic air flow from any type of fan, including sitting
it in the vent of an air conditioner or a spare 12VDC
computer fan, or pretty much anything, will work every
bit as well as a hot air stream (from that hair dryer).

It just means taking a bit longer.

I worked for a company that maintained POS systems for Walgreen (when they were in IL mainly, before they expanded nationally). If we had repair PCB's that had smoke, rodent or bug feces, or spills...it was common practice to hot water power wash (not high pressure) and compressor air dry. I had and never heard of a board not surviving the procedure.

The problem with wet phones is they are usually powered on and
something fries on the board. The only good news is the flash card and
the SIM card usually survive. I found one on the beach that had been
in the water for quite a while but I was able to read the flash card
and find out enough to get it to the original owner.

I should say that that was nice of you.

It was more a "note in a bottle" moment than actually returning
anything of real value. It was in the water for weeks.

On Monday, July 13, 2015 at 1:29:15 PM UTC-5, micky wrote:
On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 05:43:50 -0700 (PDT), Uncle Monster
wrote:



You must be careful to let it cool before turning it on. And if it has a re=
movable battery, remove it first. Batteries in cell phones and other electr=
onics have thermal fuses or polyfuses that could brick a battery if it gets=
too hot. Turning on a hot smart phone can damage the CPU which is a proble=
m that GM is addressing with its design for an AC cooled compartment for ph=
ones that will be built into the dash of new GM vehicles. 8-)

So will the AC will have to run int he winter too? Including the
full-size compressor? Since the dash is in the passgenger compartment,
warmed by the heater?

http://www.droid-life.com/2015/07/02...phone-cooling/

"The system only runs when drivers turn on the HVAC system."

This is ambigous. If it had said only runs when drivers turn on the
AC**, that woudl answer my question, but they include the heat. So if
it's cold out and people are using the heat, that means the HVAC system
is on.

**I suppose this is what they mean but I just wish people woudl pay more
attenttion to what they say.

http://archive.ksdk.com/rss/article/...e-heat=-stroke

[8~{} Uncle Phone Monster

Why can't they use that semiconductor cooler, with no moving parts, like
is used in picnic coolers? Don't those work?

I'm not sure about their design but if I were designing such a system, I'd line the enclosure with something that would keep it cold when you shut down the AC and left your vehicle. Something like the gel packs you put in your freezer at home then drop them in your Igloo cooler to keep your dead animal flesh from spoiling before grilling it at the picnic. Then there's that thermoelectric Peltier cooler like you mentioned. You could rig your own from one of those small thermoelectric single beverage coolers that plugs into a cigarette liter socket. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Cool Monster

On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 12:04:39 -0400, wrote:

On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 05:10:42 -0700 (PDT), bob haller
wrote:

On Monday, July 13, 2015 at 6:00:34 AM UTC-4, Seymore4Head wrote:
On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 01:37:06 -0400, micky
wrote:

I know we've heard this before but here is a first-hand story, at least
for me.

A friend writes:

Phone didn't work, even though battery had substantial charge.

At the T-Mobile service center, the rep opened the phone and showed me
that it was wet inside. Why? When I turned on the water at the
fountain, there was a surge that thoroughly doused my pants and sport
jacket. Even though the phone was in my shirt pocket underneath the
jacket and was partially protected by a rubberized case. enough water
managed to seep in to cause the phone to malfunction. The rep suggested
that before I opted for a replacement phone, I should disassemble the
phone (basically taking the battery and SIM card out) and immerse it in
bowl of uncooked rice for 24 hours. It worked! I mentioned this to a
number of people who were aware of this "folk remedy". Silica gel would
even be better as a desiccant, but it is not exactly a household item.

I have read that the best thing to do if you get your phone wet is to
not turn it on. Turning it on while wet could damage it more easily.
Use a vacuum cleaner and then bowl of rice.

Heating the phone with a hair dryer set on low also works, since it evaporates the water quickly....
Evaporating the water leaves any disolved solids behind. Absorbing
the water with a dessicant leaves less behind, as it can absorb the
solids as well.

I have a feeling that even with the sorbant/absorbant, the water
evaporates and the increased humidity gets absorbed by the dessicant.

If you could get the desicant to touch the water, it would be different.

The secret is to get the battery out as soon as possible, and shake
out as much water as possible - avoid "wet shorts" that put voltage
where it does not belong - which can permanently kill the phone.

I'm sure. Although in my friend's case, the phone was on or he wouldn't
have known it wasn't working.

Once my stream flooded and my basement laundry room got wet, and the
next day the water heater started leaking, so I thought it was just the
first water not evaporating and the laundry room floor stayed wet for a
week or more, leading to mold and smell.

So I bought a 50 pound bag of calcium chloride or maybe calcium
carbonate? Whichever is a desicant. I put a piece of filigreed
masonite vertically in a bucket, with a bunch fhe crystals in one side.
And after 12 hours there was 2 or 3 inches of water in the other side
(both sides really, but I couldn't see the other side) I woudl pour
it out and get more water, and once or twice I added more crystals.
And the smell started to go away. But what was amazing is that
different steps on the stairs going to the main floor smelled different.

The stairs are carpeted. One step would smell bad and another smelled
fine. I would put the bucket on the bad step and in a few days the
smell was gone. Of course this makes no sense because the bucket is on
the step and my nose is 5 feet higher, where the air from all the steps
ought to merge together, unless it doesn't.

Anyhow, I put the bucket on each step eventually, and after a few days
each smelled fine and the smell has never come back.

I gave the reminaing 45 pounds to a gas station.



WRT the carpeted steps, only the first riser got wet at all, in fact the
water might not have gotten to that room, but there's enough humiidity
that once the mold was started, I think, though I didnt see, there was
morld in the room with the seps.

On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 11:10:10 -0500, Mark Lloyd wrote:

On 07/13/2015 07:26 AM, bob_villa wrote:
On Monday, July 13, 2015 at 5:00:34 AM UTC-5, Seymore4Head wrote:

I have read that the best thing to do if you get your phone wet is to
not turn it on. Turning it on while wet could damage it more easily.
Use a vacuum cleaner and then bowl of rice.

The best thing is remove the battery and SIM card quickly, as most, if not all, cell phones are technically always on (like most things today, it's a "soft" off).


Considering "off", I once measured the electrical power used by a cable
box when "off". It was indistinguishable from the power it used when on.

One of my cell phones would go weeks without needing a charge when off

OTOH, my cordless phones don't even have a switch to turn them off.
They last 2 or 3 days now but they'd last 10 days or more if I could
turn them off. I'd still hear the ringers on the base station and the
western electric phone in the basement.

On 7/13/2015 3:18 PM, micky wrote:
Once my stream flooded and my basement laundry room got wet, and the
next day the water heater started leaking, so I thought it was just the
first water not evaporating and the laundry room floor stayed wet for a
week or more, leading to mold and smell.

So I bought a 50 pound bag of calcium chloride or maybe calcium
carbonate? Whichever is a desicant. I put a piece of filigreed

Chloride.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Monday, July 13, 2015 at 7:26:24 AM UTC-5, bob_villa wrote:
On Monday, July 13, 2015 at 5:00:34 AM UTC-5, Seymore4Head wrote:

I have read that the best thing to do if you get your phone wet is to
not turn it on. Turning it on while wet could damage it more easily.
Use a vacuum cleaner and then bowl of rice.

The best thing is remove the battery and SIM card quickly, as most, if not all, cell phones are technically always on (like most things today, it's a "soft" off).

Odd thing today, we all went swimming a the local State Park...was in the water more than a half hour...then I noticed something in my baggy swim shorts, you guessed it...flip-phone. Remove battery and SIM, dried it, shook it, blew it out with air and put it in rice...we'll see what happens.
micky gave me bad karma...

On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 14:29:08 -0400, micky
wrote:

On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 05:43:50 -0700 (PDT), Uncle Monster
wrote:



You must be careful to let it cool before turning it on. And if it has a re=
movable battery, remove it first. Batteries in cell phones and other electr=
onics have thermal fuses or polyfuses that could brick a battery if it gets=
too hot. Turning on a hot smart phone can damage the CPU which is a proble=
m that GM is addressing with its design for an AC cooled compartment for ph=
ones that will be built into the dash of new GM vehicles. 8-)

So will the AC will have to run int he winter too? Including the
full-size compressor? Since the dash is in the passgenger compartment,
warmed by the heater?

http://www.droid-life.com/2015/07/02...phone-cooling/

"The system only runs when drivers turn on the HVAC system."

The AC compressor on most vehicles today runs any time the HVAC system
is in the defrost mode, unless it is VERY cold.

This is ambigous. If it had said only runs when drivers turn on the
AC**, that woudl answer my question, but they include the heat. So if
it's cold out and people are using the heat, that means the HVAC system
is on.

**I suppose this is what they mean but I just wish people woudl pay more
attenttion to what they say.

http://archive.ksdk.com/rss/article/...e-heat=-stroke

[8~{} Uncle Phone Monster

Why can't they use that semiconductor cooler, with no moving parts, like
is used in picnic coolers? Don't those work?

You mean a Peltier cooler? They work, but are not terribly efficient
and can only transfer a limitted amount of heat (cause a limitted
temperature reduction)

On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 12:11:02 -0700 (PDT), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Monday, July 13, 2015 at 1:29:15 PM UTC-5, micky wrote:
On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 05:43:50 -0700 (PDT), Uncle Monster
wrote:



You must be careful to let it cool before turning it on. And if it has a re=
movable battery, remove it first. Batteries in cell phones and other electr=
onics have thermal fuses or polyfuses that could brick a battery if it gets=
too hot. Turning on a hot smart phone can damage the CPU which is a proble=
m that GM is addressing with its design for an AC cooled compartment for ph=
ones that will be built into the dash of new GM vehicles. 8-)

So will the AC will have to run int he winter too? Including the
full-size compressor? Since the dash is in the passgenger compartment,
warmed by the heater?

http://www.droid-life.com/2015/07/02...phone-cooling/

"The system only runs when drivers turn on the HVAC system."

This is ambigous. If it had said only runs when drivers turn on the
AC**, that woudl answer my question, but they include the heat. So if
it's cold out and people are using the heat, that means the HVAC system
is on.

**I suppose this is what they mean but I just wish people woudl pay more
attenttion to what they say.

http://archive.ksdk.com/rss/article/...e-heat=-stroke

[8~{} Uncle Phone Monster

Why can't they use that semiconductor cooler, with no moving parts, like
is used in picnic coolers? Don't those work?

I'm not sure about their design but if I were designing such a system, I'd line the enclosure with something that would keep it cold when you shut down the AC and left your vehicle. Something like the gel packs you put in your freezer at home then drop them in your Igloo cooler to keep your dead animal flesh from spoiling before grilling it at the picnic. Then there's that thermoelectric Peltier cooler like you mentioned. You could rig your own from one of those small thermoelectric single beverage coolers that plugs into a cigarette liter socket. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Cool Monster
BIG problem with direct cooling - any moisture in the air in the
compartment condenses out on the surface, drains down, and wets your
phone. You want cool dried air circulating through the system with the
compartment walls WARMER than the air flowing through. That way any
moisture in the compartment is absorbed by the moving dry air and
evacuated from the system.

On Monday, July 13, 2015 at 8:02:27 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 12:11:02 -0700 (PDT), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Monday, July 13, 2015 at 1:29:15 PM UTC-5, micky wrote:
On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 05:43:50 -0700 (PDT), Uncle Monster
wrote:



You must be careful to let it cool before turning it on. And if it has a re=
movable battery, remove it first. Batteries in cell phones and other electr=
onics have thermal fuses or polyfuses that could brick a battery if it gets=
too hot. Turning on a hot smart phone can damage the CPU which is a proble=
m that GM is addressing with its design for an AC cooled compartment for ph=
ones that will be built into the dash of new GM vehicles. 8-)

So will the AC will have to run int he winter too? Including the
full-size compressor? Since the dash is in the passgenger compartment,
warmed by the heater?

http://www.droid-life.com/2015/07/02...phone-cooling/

"The system only runs when drivers turn on the HVAC system."

This is ambigous. If it had said only runs when drivers turn on the
AC**, that woudl answer my question, but they include the heat. So if
it's cold out and people are using the heat, that means the HVAC system
is on.

**I suppose this is what they mean but I just wish people woudl pay more
attenttion to what they say.

http://archive.ksdk.com/rss/article/...e-heat=-stroke

[8~{} Uncle Phone Monster

Why can't they use that semiconductor cooler, with no moving parts, like
is used in picnic coolers? Don't those work?

I'm not sure about their design but if I were designing such a system, I'd line the enclosure with something that would keep it cold when you shut down the AC and left your vehicle. Something like the gel packs you put in your freezer at home then drop them in your Igloo cooler to keep your dead animal flesh from spoiling before grilling it at the picnic. Then there's that thermoelectric Peltier cooler like you mentioned. You could rig your own from one of those small thermoelectric single beverage coolers that plugs into a cigarette liter socket. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Cool Monster
BIG problem with direct cooling - any moisture in the air in the
compartment condenses out on the surface, drains down, and wets your
phone. You want cool dried air circulating through the system with the
compartment walls WARMER than the air flowing through. That way any
moisture in the compartment is absorbed by the moving dry air and
evacuated from the system.

Line the interior surfaces with Gore-Tex. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Fabric Monster

On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 20:58:55 -0400, wrote:



Why can't they use that semiconductor cooler, with no moving parts, like
is used in picnic coolers? Don't those work?

You mean a Peltier cooler? They work, but are not terribly efficient
and can only transfer a limitted amount of heat (cause a limitted
temperature reduction)

Good to finally learn about that.

I used to have a friend who built** his own 2-story house near Woodstock
NY. **Did much of the contruction himself, though he made at least one
big mistake. He used log segments, so that one end showed on the
outside and the other end on the inside, but didnt' seem to realize they
would shrink when they dried. So there was an enormous amount of
caulking, with cement iirc. There are loads of towns in upstate NY
like woodstock, even with antique stores and, in the 70's, hippies, but
his house had to be in woodstock so that he could tell people that's
where he lived.

It was going to cost a fortune to run electric lines so I suggested the
cooler, which even in the 70's was advertised in the JC Whtney catalog.

He went with a gneerator instead I guess so he could have light too.
I forget how well the box that covered it worked.

He was a jerk and I knew it. But I tolerated medium-high levels of
jerkiness as long as I didnt' see them often. I brought a date to his
xmas party and he asked her all kinds of personal questions that normal
people don't even ask people they've known for years. Then he danced
with her girlfriend, who was really beautiful, but he groped her while
they were dancing and she left.

He was a lawyer. While we were camping, I heard him tell someone he was
a wood carver from Woodstock, but had "a straight gig in the city".

When we camped, it had to be in Hippie Hollow, even thogh there were no
more hippies there than anyplace else, so he could tell his coworkers
that he camped in Hippie Hollow.

We went camping with Rainbow (nothing to do with the R. Coalition)
in North Carolina and I've done that before in Pennsylvania, but this
time a few thosand people got sick. (The CDC investigated, sent me a
long form and in return, later sent me their report on the cause etc.)
His date had a 102.6 temperature and her 10-year old daughter had 103.6.
I know that might not be fatal but it's not good either**. It took us
40 minutes to get out of the national park, to my car, and he didn't
want to take them to the hospital, because he said they'd get over it.
I was so glad I was the one with the car. The hospital was on the way
home, but 40 miles from the park and it took another hour to get there.
As it turned out, they just gave them a lot of water and watched them
for 3 or 4 hours, and they did get better in a couple days, but that
wasn't a decision for him to make. He got sick later that day and I
got sick the next day. Shigellosois I think it was, because they didnt
protect their water supply well enough from feces. The other 20 years
they didn't make that mistake.

He said she was his girlfriend so it was his decision. I told him that
applied to wives and husbands because there's a reason to believe they
love each other, or at least are invested in each other, and will
sacrifice their own good for the sake of the other's health (What was he
sacrificing? He wanted to get back to NYC by 11 so he could have a
full nights's sleep before work the next day) but if she died, or if say
she got a lung disease and had to move to Arizona, he woudln't move with
her. He'd just get another girl friend. We fought from the moutains of
North Carolina to Baltimore and I don't think I've talked to him since.
Eventually his father and mother died, his other girl friend told me,
and they left him rich, or at least a millionaire. .

**We agreed that even though it was July 4th weekend, the stream right
there was too cold to put the woman or her daughter in, but years later
someone explained to me that we should have wet towels in the strame and
applied them to their bodies, especially I think their foreheads and
heads, to cool them off. He knew nothing and neither did I, but at
least I knew how to drive to the hospital.

When we had gotten to the road outside the park The police offered to
call a doctor but it would have taken an hour they said, about the same
time it took to drive to the hospital, which of course has more people
and more equipment.

And that's the story of the Peltier cooler.

On Monday, July 13, 2015 at 2:29:15 PM UTC-4, micky wrote:
On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 05:43:50 -0700 (PDT), Uncle Monster
wrote:



You must be careful to let it cool before turning it on. And if it has a re=
movable battery, remove it first. Batteries in cell phones and other electr=
onics have thermal fuses or polyfuses that could brick a battery if it gets=
too hot. Turning on a hot smart phone can damage the CPU which is a proble=
m that GM is addressing with its design for an AC cooled compartment for ph=
ones that will be built into the dash of new GM vehicles. 8-)

So will the AC will have to run int he winter too? Including the
full-size compressor? Since the dash is in the passgenger compartment,
warmed by the heater?

....snip...

There is nothing wrong with using the A/C in the winter.

The owner's manual for both of my Hondas (and maybe my other cars too, I don't recall) specifically say that the A/C can be used year round to remove moisture from the vehicle to keep the windows clear.

In fact, the Honda manuals state that the A/C automatically comes on when the Defroster setting is selected.

On 07/14/2015 09:56 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

[snip]

There is nothing wrong with using the A/C in the winter.

The owner's manual for both of my Hondas (and maybe my other cars too, I don't recall) specifically say that the A/C can be used year round to remove moisture from the vehicle to keep the windows clear.

My first car didn't have that in the manual, but I discovered that it
would work better than the defroster when it wasn't too cold.

In fact, the Honda manuals state that the A/C automatically comes on when the Defroster setting is selected.



--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us/

"The more you know, the less you believe"

On Monday, July 13, 2015 at 11:51:27 PM UTC-5, micky wrote:

And that's the story of the Peltier cooler.

I started reading this...it became tedious and I fell asleep...zzzzzzz

On Tue, 14 Jul 2015 07:56:04 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Monday, July 13, 2015 at 2:29:15 PM UTC-4, micky wrote:
On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 05:43:50 -0700 (PDT), Uncle Monster
wrote:



You must be careful to let it cool before turning it on. And if it has a re=
movable battery, remove it first. Batteries in cell phones and other electr=
onics have thermal fuses or polyfuses that could brick a battery if it gets=
too hot. Turning on a hot smart phone can damage the CPU which is a proble=
m that GM is addressing with its design for an AC cooled compartment for ph=
ones that will be built into the dash of new GM vehicles. 8-)

So will the AC will have to run int he winter too? Including the
full-size compressor? Since the dash is in the passgenger compartment,
warmed by the heater?

...snip...

There is nothing wrong with using the A/C in the winter.

It costs money.

The owner's manual for both of my Hondas (and maybe my other cars too, I don't recall) specifically say that the A/C can be used year round to remove moisture from the vehicle to keep the windows clear.

That's more important than charging the phone.

In fact, the Honda manuals state that the A/C automatically comes on when the Defroster setting is selected.

Yeah, mine might do that too, but I almost always turn it off.

On Tue, 14 Jul 2015 17:45:07 -0400, micky
wrote:

On Tue, 14 Jul 2015 07:56:04 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Monday, July 13, 2015 at 2:29:15 PM UTC-4, micky wrote:
On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 05:43:50 -0700 (PDT), Uncle Monster
wrote:



You must be careful to let it cool before turning it on. And if it has a re=
movable battery, remove it first. Batteries in cell phones and other electr=
onics have thermal fuses or polyfuses that could brick a battery if it gets=
too hot. Turning on a hot smart phone can damage the CPU which is a proble=
m that GM is addressing with its design for an AC cooled compartment for ph=
ones that will be built into the dash of new GM vehicles. 8-)

So will the AC will have to run int he winter too? Including the
full-size compressor? Since the dash is in the passgenger compartment,
warmed by the heater?

...snip...

There is nothing wrong with using the A/C in the winter.

It costs money.

The owner's manual for both of my Hondas (and maybe my other cars too, I don't recall) specifically say that the A/C can be used year round to remove moisture from the vehicle to keep the windows clear.

That's more important than charging the phone.

In fact, the Honda manuals state that the A/C automatically comes on when the Defroster setting is selected.

Yeah, mine might do that too, but I almost always turn it off.
Except you cannot turn off the AC without shutting off the defroster.

On Tue, 14 Jul 2015 18:41:45 -0400, wrote:

On Tue, 14 Jul 2015 17:45:07 -0400, micky
wrote:

On Tue, 14 Jul 2015 07:56:04 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Monday, July 13, 2015 at 2:29:15 PM UTC-4, micky wrote:
On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 05:43:50 -0700 (PDT), Uncle Monster
wrote:



You must be careful to let it cool before turning it on. And if it has a re=
movable battery, remove it first. Batteries in cell phones and other electr=
onics have thermal fuses or polyfuses that could brick a battery if it gets=
too hot. Turning on a hot smart phone can damage the CPU which is a proble=
m that GM is addressing with its design for an AC cooled compartment for ph=
ones that will be built into the dash of new GM vehicles. 8-)

So will the AC will have to run int he winter too? Including the
full-size compressor? Since the dash is in the passgenger compartment,
warmed by the heater?

...snip...

There is nothing wrong with using the A/C in the winter.

It costs money.

The owner's manual for both of my Hondas (and maybe my other cars too, I don't recall) specifically say that the A/C can be used year round to remove moisture from the vehicle to keep the windows clear.

That's more important than charging the phone.

In fact, the Honda manuals state that the A/C automatically comes on when the Defroster setting is selected.

Yeah, mine might do that too, but I almost always turn it off.

Except you cannot turn off the AC without shutting off the defroster.

Not on my Lebaron or Toyota. Each had/has a separate AC button.
Sending almost all the air onto the windshiled stays the same, and iirc
the fan speed is within my control.

I suppose it takes longer to defrost without the AC but it still does
it.

On Wednesday, July 15, 2015 at 8:08:55 AM UTC-5, micky wrote:

Not on my Lebaron or Toyota.

I agree that you are mistaken...you need to turn it on and look at the compressor clutch...

On Wednesday, July 15, 2015 at 9:08:55 AM UTC-4, micky wrote:
On Tue, 14 Jul 2015 18:41:45 -0400, wrote:

On Tue, 14 Jul 2015 17:45:07 -0400, micky
wrote:

On Tue, 14 Jul 2015 07:56:04 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Monday, July 13, 2015 at 2:29:15 PM UTC-4, micky wrote:
On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 05:43:50 -0700 (PDT), Uncle Monster
wrote:



You must be careful to let it cool before turning it on. And if it has a re=
movable battery, remove it first. Batteries in cell phones and other electr=
onics have thermal fuses or polyfuses that could brick a battery if it gets=
too hot. Turning on a hot smart phone can damage the CPU which is a proble=
m that GM is addressing with its design for an AC cooled compartment for ph=
ones that will be built into the dash of new GM vehicles. 8-)

So will the AC will have to run int he winter too? Including the
full-size compressor? Since the dash is in the passgenger compartment,
warmed by the heater?

...snip...

There is nothing wrong with using the A/C in the winter.

It costs money.

The owner's manual for both of my Hondas (and maybe my other cars too, I don't recall) specifically say that the A/C can be used year round to remove moisture from the vehicle to keep the windows clear.

That's more important than charging the phone.

In fact, the Honda manuals state that the A/C automatically comes on when the Defroster setting is selected.

Yeah, mine might do that too, but I almost always turn it off.

Except you cannot turn off the AC without shutting off the defroster.

Not on my Lebaron or Toyota. Each had/has a separate AC button.

Are you sure that you are actually turning it off? My Honda manuals state that if the A/C was not on prior to turning on the defroster, the A/C will come on but the A/C indicator will *not* illuminate.

I quote:

"Select Defrost. The system automatically switches to fresh air mode and turns on the A/C. The indicator in the A/C button will not come on (LX model), or the A/C ON indicator will not come on (EX, EX-L and Touring models), if the A/C was off to start with."

So, even though you say there is a separate A/C button in your vehicles (BTW I don't know of any vehicles where there *isn't* a separate A/C control) how do you know that you are actually turning it off? In my Hondas, the system apparently overrides the A/C button.

Sending almost all the air onto the windshiled stays the same, and iirc
the fan speed is within my control.

I'm not sure what either of those comments have to do with the A/C being on or off when the Defroster is running. The Defroster mode is going to send "almost all the air onto the windshield" by virtue of the positioning of the air flow control doors, regardless of whether the A/C is on or not.


I suppose it takes longer to defrost without the AC but it still does
it.

Now, that would be your test: Simulate the exact conditions under which you get a specific amount of frost on your windshield. Then use the defroster in what you believe to be 2 different modes: A/C on and A/C off. Let us know what happens. We'll wait.

On 7/15/2015 10:17 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, July 15, 2015 at 9:08:55 AM UTC-4, micky wrote:

Not on my Lebaron or Toyota. Each had/has a separate AC button.

Are you sure that you are actually turning it off? My Honda manuals state that if the A/C was not on prior to turning on the defroster, the A/C will come on but the A/C indicator will *not* illuminate.

I quote:

"Select Defrost. The system automatically switches to fresh air mode and turns on the A/C. The indicator in the A/C button will not come on (LX model), or the A/C ON indicator will not come on (EX, EX-L and Touring models), if the A/C was off to start with."

So, even though you say there is a separate A/C button in your vehicles (BTW I don't know of any vehicles where there *isn't* a separate A/C control) how do you know that you are actually turning it off? In my Hondas, the system apparently overrides the A/C button.


Why would anyone NOT want the AC on to defrost? Faster, thus safer.
Won't cost but a penny or two a year in gas. IMO, it was a great idea.

On Wednesday, July 15, 2015 at 10:24:59 AM UTC-4, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 7/15/2015 10:17 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, July 15, 2015 at 9:08:55 AM UTC-4, micky wrote:

Not on my Lebaron or Toyota. Each had/has a separate AC button.

Are you sure that you are actually turning it off? My Honda manuals state that if the A/C was not on prior to turning on the defroster, the A/C will come on but the A/C indicator will *not* illuminate.

I quote:

"Select Defrost. The system automatically switches to fresh air mode and turns on the A/C. The indicator in the A/C button will not come on (LX model), or the A/C ON indicator will not come on (EX, EX-L and Touring models), if the A/C was off to start with."

So, even though you say there is a separate A/C button in your vehicles (BTW I don't know of any vehicles where there *isn't* a separate A/C control) how do you know that you are actually turning it off? In my Hondas, the system apparently overrides the A/C button.


Why would anyone NOT want the AC on to defrost? Faster, thus safer.
Won't cost but a penny or two a year in gas. IMO, it was a great idea.

Apparently micky thinks it's a bad idea, money wise.

When I said "There is nothing wrong with using the A/C in the winter" he said "It costs money".

Perhaps he subscribes to that infamous economic practice of "saving money regardless of the costs". ;-)

On Wed, 15 Jul 2015 07:17:01 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 15, 2015 at 9:08:55 AM UTC-4, micky wrote:
On Tue, 14 Jul 2015 18:41:45 -0400, wrote:

On Tue, 14 Jul 2015 17:45:07 -0400, micky
wrote:

On Tue, 14 Jul 2015 07:56:04 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Monday, July 13, 2015 at 2:29:15 PM UTC-4, micky wrote:
On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 05:43:50 -0700 (PDT), Uncle Monster
wrote:



You must be careful to let it cool before turning it on. And if it has a re=
movable battery, remove it first. Batteries in cell phones and other electr=
onics have thermal fuses or polyfuses that could brick a battery if it gets=
too hot. Turning on a hot smart phone can damage the CPU which is a proble=
m that GM is addressing with its design for an AC cooled compartment for ph=
ones that will be built into the dash of new GM vehicles. 8-)

So will the AC will have to run int he winter too? Including the
full-size compressor? Since the dash is in the passgenger compartment,
warmed by the heater?

...snip...

There is nothing wrong with using the A/C in the winter.

It costs money.

The owner's manual for both of my Hondas (and maybe my other cars too, I don't recall) specifically say that the A/C can be used year round to remove moisture from the vehicle to keep the windows clear.

That's more important than charging the phone.

In fact, the Honda manuals state that the A/C automatically comes on when the Defroster setting is selected.

Yeah, mine might do that too, but I almost always turn it off.

Except you cannot turn off the AC without shutting off the defroster.

Not on my Lebaron or Toyota. Each had/has a separate AC button.

Are you sure that you are actually turning it off?

Pretty sure.

My Honda manuals state that if the A/C was not on prior to turning on the defroster, the A/C will come on but the A/C indicator will *not* illuminate.

I don't think either of my car manuals said anything like that. The
Lebaron manual is around here somewhere, but the car itself is in a
beautiful graveyard in the Smoky Mountains, overlooking the Piedmont and
the rising sun. So I can't check it, but I can check the Toyota.

I quote:

"Select Defrost. The system automatically switches to fresh air mode and turns on the A/C. The indicator in the A/C button will not come on (LX model), or the A/C ON indicator will not come on (EX, EX-L and Touring models), if the A/C was off to start with."

I'm 99.9% sure my AC indicator DOES come on when I push the Defrost
button, and then it goes out when I push the AC button.

Another test woudl be whethe the air is warmer after the AC light goes
off, but that can be hard to tell. Just yesterday, I noticed that even
though it was a warm day, the air from the vents seemed cooler than I
expected, even though neither the Defrost or the AC was on.

So, even though you say there is a separate A/C button in your vehicles (BTW I don't know of any vehicles where there *isn't* a separate A/C control) how do you know that you are actually turning it off? In my Hondas, the system apparently overrides the A/C button.

If you read, _Hondas and Satanic Rituals_, by James Mephiisto you'll
see that the Honda is the most deceitful of all car makes. This is not
the first time its indicators have failed to tailed to tell the truth.

OTOH, in _Toyota and the Angels_ Maryann Faithful writes at length
about how Toyotas will leave their parking places at night to deliver
food for poor people.

Sending almost all the air onto the windshiled stays the same, and iirc
the fan speed is within my control.

I'm not sure what either of those comments have to do with the A/C being on or off when the Defroster is running.

It has to do with the defrost running. Whether I'm right ot not, I'd
already said that the AC was off.

The Defroster mode is going to send "almost all the air onto the windshield" by virtue of the positioning of the air flow control doors, regardless of whether the A/C is on or not.

And that's most of what makes it Defrost mode.


I suppose it takes longer to defrost without the AC but it still does
it.

Now, that would be your test: Simulate the exact conditions under which you get a specific amount of frost on your windshield. Then use the defroster in what you believe to be 2 different modes: A/C on and A/C off. Let us know what happens. We'll wait.

You know I can't do that, because it takes a night of sitting there to
have frost or even fog on the windshield. There's no reason to
expect the next morning's supply of those things will be the same.

Anyhow, I admit it would take longer. I don't care exactly how much
longer. But you can test and get back to us.



Perhaps he subscribes to that infamous economic practice of "saving money r=
egardless of the costs". ;-)

Of course not, but there is no cost. Not only that, there is no
benefit to have it on once the windshiled is clear, but I've been known
to drive for hours in defrost mode. Turning off the AC makes sure the
AC is off.

On Wednesday, July 15, 2015 at 2:58:18 PM UTC-4, micky wrote:
On Wed, 15 Jul 2015 07:17:01 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 15, 2015 at 9:08:55 AM UTC-4, micky wrote:
On Tue, 14 Jul 2015 18:41:45 -0400, wrote:

On Tue, 14 Jul 2015 17:45:07 -0400, micky
wrote:

On Tue, 14 Jul 2015 07:56:04 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Monday, July 13, 2015 at 2:29:15 PM UTC-4, micky wrote:
On Mon, 13 Jul 2015 05:43:50 -0700 (PDT), Uncle Monster
wrote:



You must be careful to let it cool before turning it on. And if it has a re=
movable battery, remove it first. Batteries in cell phones and other electr=
onics have thermal fuses or polyfuses that could brick a battery if it gets=
too hot. Turning on a hot smart phone can damage the CPU which is a proble=
m that GM is addressing with its design for an AC cooled compartment for ph=
ones that will be built into the dash of new GM vehicles. 8-)

So will the AC will have to run int he winter too? Including the
full-size compressor? Since the dash is in the passgenger compartment,
warmed by the heater?

...snip...

There is nothing wrong with using the A/C in the winter.

It costs money.

The owner's manual for both of my Hondas (and maybe my other cars too, I don't recall) specifically say that the A/C can be used year round to remove moisture from the vehicle to keep the windows clear.

That's more important than charging the phone.

In fact, the Honda manuals state that the A/C automatically comes on when the Defroster setting is selected.

Yeah, mine might do that too, but I almost always turn it off.

Except you cannot turn off the AC without shutting off the defroster..

Not on my Lebaron or Toyota. Each had/has a separate AC button.

Are you sure that you are actually turning it off?

Pretty sure.

My Honda manuals state that if the A/C was not on prior to turning on the defroster, the A/C will come on but the A/C indicator will *not* illuminate.

I don't think either of my car manuals said anything like that. The
Lebaron manual is around here somewhere, but the car itself is in a
beautiful graveyard in the Smoky Mountains, overlooking the Piedmont and
the rising sun. So I can't check it, but I can check the Toyota.

I quote:

"Select Defrost. The system automatically switches to fresh air mode and turns on the A/C. The indicator in the A/C button will not come on (LX model), or the A/C ON indicator will not come on (EX, EX-L and Touring models), if the A/C was off to start with."

I'm 99.9% sure my AC indicator DOES come on when I push the Defrost
button, and then it goes out when I push the AC button.

Another test woudl be whethe the air is warmer after the AC light goes
off, but that can be hard to tell. Just yesterday, I noticed that even
though it was a warm day, the air from the vents seemed cooler than I
expected, even though neither the Defrost or the AC was on.

So, even though you say there is a separate A/C button in your vehicles (BTW I don't know of any vehicles where there *isn't* a separate A/C control) how do you know that you are actually turning it off? In my Hondas, the system apparently overrides the A/C button.

If you read, _Hondas and Satanic Rituals_, by James Mephiisto you'll
see that the Honda is the most deceitful of all car makes. This is not
the first time its indicators have failed to tailed to tell the truth.

Honda Corp is our friend and benefactor.

"How Snapdragon and Honda are working to save lives with smartphones"

https://www.qualcomm.com/news/snapdr...es-smartphones

OTOH, in _Toyota and the Angels_ Maryann Faithful writes at length
about how Toyotas will leave their parking places at night to deliver
food for poor people.

My neighbor just bought a 2015 Toyota Camry. The big black grill opening on that thing is enough to scare small children and the elderly. As a matter of fact, I've noticed a decline in the amount of wildlife in my neighborhood since he brought it home. I think Toyota may have gone over to the dark side since Ms. Faithful penned her praises.

Sending almost all the air onto the windshiled stays the same, and iirc
the fan speed is within my control.

I'm not sure what either of those comments have to do with the A/C being on or off when the Defroster is running.

It has to do with the defrost running. Whether I'm right ot not, I'd
already said that the AC was off.


True, but regardless of the A/C being on or off, I still don't see how your comment "Sending almost all the air onto the windshiled (sic) stays the same" relates to this issue. Turning the A/C on or off, either manually or automagically, isn't going to change where the air flows as long as the defroster is on.

The same holds for "and iirc the fan speed is within my control." So what? Why is that relevant to this discussion?


The Defroster mode is going to send "almost all the air onto the windshield" by virtue of the positioning of the air flow control doors, regardless of whether the A/C is on or not.

And that's most of what makes it Defrost mode.

Uh...yeah. That still doesn't explain how your comments related to air flow and fan control have anything to do with the A/C being on or off in Defrost mode.



I suppose it takes longer to defrost without the AC but it still does
it.

Now, that would be your test: Simulate the exact conditions under which you get a specific amount of frost on your windshield. Then use the defroster in what you believe to be 2 different modes: A/C on and A/C off. Let us know what happens. We'll wait.

You know I can't do that, because it takes a night of sitting there to
have frost or even fog on the windshield. There's no reason to
expect the next morning's supply of those things will be the same.

Oh course I do. I'll try to warn you the next time I am being facetious.


Anyhow, I admit it would take longer. I don't care exactly how much
longer. But you can test and get back to us.

No I can't, for the reasons I stated earlier. Unless my manual is lying to me, I cannot turn off my A/C when the defroster is on. It is you who has the believe that you can control the A/C when the defroster is on, therefore you are the only one that can test it. I'm not saying you are wrong in your believe, only in your assertion that it is something *I* can test.


Perhaps he subscribes to that infamous economic practice of "saving money r=
egardless of the costs". ;-)

Of course not, but there is no cost.

First, based on the use of the smiley, I'm sure you realize that I was joking. However, there is a cost. Unless you do not drive until the windows are perfectly clear and you pull over if they fog up while driving, then there is the "cost" of safety. Sure, if you never have an accident, then there is no real cost, but there is the potential.

Not only that, there is no
benefit to have it on once the windshiled is clear, but I've been known
to drive for hours in defrost mode. Turning off the AC makes sure the
AC is off.

So your windows have never fogged up after they have initially cleared? Perhaps that is because the A/C was actually on for all those hours while you were in defrost mode.