We recently had new laminate floors put in our living room. It is a
sunken living room (about 2 inches lower) and the carpet that we just took
out extended up the wall two inches and then had a 2 inch simple baseboard
above that...so, carpet floor, carpet up the wall for 2 inches, 2 inch
baseboard, then painted wall.

We hired someone to do the floor because I knew our floor needed a lot of
help with leveling (concrete work). We asked them to take care of the 2
inch space by putting up a 4 inch baseboard, but once they pulled the
carpet up, there were a lot of problems that made it really difficult.

1. Under the 'wall carpet' was just concrete
2. Instead of uniform all around the room, on 2 walls, the concrete is
recessed from the current 2 inch baseboard, and on 2 walls it is
completely uneven...it goes from being recessed to having the concrete
come out an inch past the current baseboard.
3. All of the concrete is completely uneven and bumpy.

The company that did our floors said there was nothing they could do so
they just left it. It looks terrible and the laminate edges are just
hanging out against the wall with an inch gap between the laminate and
the wall.

My husband thinks we should just try to match the color of the laminate
and paint it so we can draw attention away from it. I feel like we need
to make it better, but I have no idea how to fix it. I tried to just set
the 4 inch baseboard up against the more uniform wall, but even that is
super wavy....it lines up with the current baseboard but then is an inch
below it by the end of the wall.

Not sure if all this makes sense but if anyone has any ideas or advice,
we'd appreciate it.

Thanks!

--

Courtney wrote:
We recently had new laminate floors put in our living room. It is a
sunken living room (about 2 inches lower) and the carpet that we just
took out extended up the wall two inches and then had a 2 inch simple
baseboard above that...so, carpet floor, carpet up the wall for 2
inches, 2 inch baseboard, then painted wall.

We hired someone to do the floor because I knew our floor needed a
lot of help with leveling (concrete work). We asked them to take
care of the 2 inch space by putting up a 4 inch baseboard, but once
they pulled the carpet up, there were a lot of problems that made it
really difficult.
1. Under the 'wall carpet' was just concrete
2. Instead of uniform all around the room, on 2 walls, the concrete is
recessed from the current 2 inch baseboard, and on 2 walls it is
completely uneven...it goes from being recessed to having the concrete
come out an inch past the current baseboard.
3. All of the concrete is completely uneven and bumpy.

The company that did our floors said there was nothing they could do
so they just left it. It looks terrible and the laminate edges are
just hanging out against the wall with an inch gap between the
laminate and the wall.

My husband thinks we should just try to match the color of the
laminate and paint it so we can draw attention away from it. I feel
like we need to make it better, but I have no idea how to fix it. I
tried to just set the 4 inch baseboard up against the more uniform
wall, but even that is super wavy....it lines up with the current
baseboard but then is an inch below it by the end of the wall.

Not sure if all this makes sense but if anyone has any ideas or
advice, we'd appreciate it.

Thanks!

You need a trim carpenter. He needs to install a sufficiently high
baseboard around the room.

To do so, he may or may not have to shim out the recessed areas. The area
of concrete that projects from the wall could be cut off or he could put the
baseboard on that; in the latter case, the base wouldn't meet the wall at
the top so he could use a short thick piece at the top then a thin baseboard
under that.

After the baseboard, you need a shoe molding to hide the gap between floor
and baseboard.

On Fri, 19 Jun 2015 06:57:00 -0400, "dadiOH"
wrote in

Courtney wrote:
snip

My husband thinks we should just try to match the color of the
laminate and paint it so we can draw attention away from it. I feel
like we need to make it better, but I have no idea how to fix it. I
tried to just set the 4 inch baseboard up against the more uniform
wall, but even that is super wavy....it lines up with the current
baseboard but then is an inch below it by the end of the wall.

Not sure if all this makes sense but if anyone has any ideas or
advice, we'd appreciate it.

Thanks!

You need a trim carpenter. He needs to install a sufficiently high
baseboard around the room.

To do so, he may or may not have to shim out the recessed areas. The area
of concrete that projects from the wall could be cut off or he could put the
baseboard on that; in the latter case, the base wouldn't meet the wall at
the top so he could use a short thick piece at the top then a thin baseboard
under that.

After the baseboard, you need a shoe molding to hide the gap between floor
and baseboard.


+1 on this soluton.
--
Web based forums are like subscribing to 10 different newspapers
and having to visit 10 different news stands to pickup each one.
Email list-server groups and USENET are like having all of those
newspapers delivered to your door every morning.

On Friday, June 19, 2015 at 8:01:01 AM UTC-4, CRNG wrote:
On Fri, 19 Jun 2015 06:57:00 -0400, "dadiOH"
wrote in

Courtney wrote:
snip

My husband thinks we should just try to match the color of the
laminate and paint it so we can draw attention away from it. I feel
like we need to make it better, but I have no idea how to fix it. I
tried to just set the 4 inch baseboard up against the more uniform
wall, but even that is super wavy....it lines up with the current
baseboard but then is an inch below it by the end of the wall.

Not sure if all this makes sense but if anyone has any ideas or
advice, we'd appreciate it.

Thanks!

You need a trim carpenter. He needs to install a sufficiently high
baseboard around the room.

To do so, he may or may not have to shim out the recessed areas. The area
of concrete that projects from the wall could be cut off or he could put the
baseboard on that; in the latter case, the base wouldn't meet the wall at
the top so he could use a short thick piece at the top then a thin baseboard
under that.

After the baseboard, you need a shoe molding to hide the gap between floor
and baseboard.


+1 on this soluton.
--

Agree. At least that's all that I can say without seeing pics
of the actual problem. But it sounds like it can be covered up by
a wide enough molding, followed by a shoe molding. If concrete
sticks out more in some areas, it may be possible to remove
material from the back of the molding so it will fit.

On 06/18/2015 10:44 PM, Courtney wrote:
We recently had new laminate floors put in our living room. It is a
sunken living room (about 2 inches lower) and the carpet that we just took
out extended up the wall two inches and then had a 2 inch simple baseboard
above that...so, carpet floor, carpet up the wall for 2 inches, 2 inch
baseboard, then painted wall.

We hired someone to do the floor because I knew our floor needed a lot of
help with leveling (concrete work). We asked them to take care of the 2
inch space by putting up a 4 inch baseboard, but once they pulled the
carpet up, there were a lot of problems that made it really difficult.

1. Under the 'wall carpet' was just concrete
2. Instead of uniform all around the room, on 2 walls, the concrete is
recessed from the current 2 inch baseboard, and on 2 walls it is
completely uneven...it goes from being recessed to having the concrete
come out an inch past the current baseboard. 3. All of the concrete is
completely uneven and bumpy.
....

Basically agree w/ DadiOH; depending on how much of the excess concrete
is there in the locations that have protrusions it may or may not be
feasible to actually cut it back...if it's just an overflow of the
forming it likely can be broken off, trimmed up, if it is the solid slab
edge and the forming was that bad then with a finished wall and all it
may be a lot of other work to be able to get to it sufficiently to do
much and the question becomes one of just how much are you willing to
invest to get a flat baseboard out of one run?

If that were the case, likely the solution is similar but just build out
far enough with a backer to even up the run with a narrow piece against
the smooth edge of the wall even with the existing baseboard and then do
what needs must to fill below. If do that, may have sufficient depth
that can dispense with the shoe mould.

Either way, as he says, it's doable and a finish carpenter is the kinda'
person you're looking for; an average "handyman" is probably going to be
in over his head to make it work out...

--

On Thursday, June 18, 2015 at 10:44:04 PM UTC-5, Courtney wrote:
We recently had new laminate floors put in our living room. It is a
sunken living room (about 2 inches lower) and the carpet that we just took
out extended up the wall two inches and then had a 2 inch simple baseboard
above that...so, carpet floor, carpet up the wall for 2 inches, 2 inch
baseboard, then painted wall.

We hired someone to do the floor because I knew our floor needed a lot of
help with leveling (concrete work). We asked them to take care of the 2
inch space by putting up a 4 inch baseboard, but once they pulled the
carpet up, there were a lot of problems that made it really difficult.

1. Under the 'wall carpet' was just concrete
2. Instead of uniform all around the room, on 2 walls, the concrete is
recessed from the current 2 inch baseboard, and on 2 walls it is
completely uneven...it goes from being recessed to having the concrete
come out an inch past the current baseboard.
3. All of the concrete is completely uneven and bumpy.

The company that did our floors said there was nothing they could do so
they just left it. It looks terrible and the laminate edges are just
hanging out against the wall with an inch gap between the laminate and
the wall.

My husband thinks we should just try to match the color of the laminate
and paint it so we can draw attention away from it. I feel like we need
to make it better, but I have no idea how to fix it. I tried to just set
the 4 inch baseboard up against the more uniform wall, but even that is
super wavy....it lines up with the current baseboard but then is an inch
below it by the end of the wall.

Not sure if all this makes sense but if anyone has any ideas or advice,
we'd appreciate it.

Thanks!

--

Perhaps a marine salvage company can refloat your sunken living room. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Drowned Monster

On Friday, June 19, 2015 at 8:29:43 AM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:

Probably should have added, 2" sunken living room, what's up
with that? Sounds like a trip hazard. All the sunken LRs that
I've seen, have been a full step down.

On 06/19/2015 8:26 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Friday, June 19, 2015 at 8:29:43 AM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:

Probably should have added, 2" sunken living room, what's up
with that? Sounds like a trip hazard. All the sunken LRs that
I've seen, have been a full step down.

But, what're you going to do about it now, anyway....it is what it is.
If were going to fix/change that, they'd have just put in a false floor
or pour it level to the rest but didn't.

--

On 06/19/2015 7:37 AM, dpb wrote:
....

If that were the case, likely the solution is similar but just build out
far enough with a backer to even up the run with a narrow piece against
the smooth edge of the wall even with the existing baseboard and then do
what needs must to fill below. If do that, may have sufficient depth
that can dispense with the shoe mould.
....

Here's a link to the general idea; this shows a solid flush base whereas
in your case that'll be a bit of work to fill in--

http://www.do-it-yourself-help.com/custom_molding_ideas.html

(scroll down the page a ways to "Baseboards")

What I'm saying is that think of that 1x6 section shown being only the
width need to cover the height down to the funky concrete section; then
filler as needed in the shallow places to the floor as nailers and the
facing "show" piece regular base in front. When done, it'll look as if
it all were solid and nobody (excepting you and the fella' that does the
work ) will know the difference...

Adapt styles, etc., to fit/match the rest of the house, of course.

--

Just an additional note to what others have said:

It's hard to judge without actually seeing it, but
if some areas have to come out at least an inch
it might work to get creative: Build out a box, like
baseboard heating. That might then be useful to
support shelving or otherwise be incorporated into
the design. Maybe in some spots the base box
could go up 6-8' and 2+' wide, to produce things
like shadow boxes for paintings or shallow shelving
for wine glasses, so that the whole thing becomes
a satisfying design idea -- multi-planed walls.

In other words, it's better to work with the situation
in the design than to try to "fudge away" the bad walls.

It's beyond me why anyone would tear up carpet
to install a plastic floor, but I guess that's a matter
of taste. I expect that, like avocado toilets, we'll
all look back some day and say, "What were we
thinking?"

On 06/19/2015 10:22 AM, Mayayana wrote:
Just an additional note to what others have said:

It's hard to judge without actually seeing it, but
if some areas have to come out at least an inch
it might work to get creative: Build out a box, like
baseboard heating. That might then be useful to
support shelving or otherwise be incorporated into
the design. Maybe in some spots the base box
could go up 6-8' and 2+' wide, to produce things
like shadow boxes for paintings or shallow shelving
for wine glasses, so that the whole thing becomes
a satisfying design idea -- multi-planed walls.

In other words, it's better to work with the situation
in the design than to try to "fudge away" the bad walls.
....

Or, simpler perhaps than matching baseboard but not quite as drastic, go
with wainscot faux panels that are easily shimmed to the needed
thickness...Gary Streiger did an article in Fine Homebuilding a few
years back...

http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how-to/articles/simple-approach-to-paneled-wainscot.aspx

--

In ,
trader_4 typed:
On Friday, June 19, 2015 at 8:01:01 AM UTC-4, CRNG wrote:
On Fri, 19 Jun 2015 06:57:00 -0400, "dadiOH"
wrote in

Courtney wrote:
snip

My husband thinks we should just try to match the color of the
laminate and paint it so we can draw attention away from it. I
feel like we need to make it better, but I have no idea how to fix
it. I tried to just set the 4 inch baseboard up against the more
uniform wall, but even that is super wavy....it lines up with the
current baseboard but then is an inch below it by the end of the
wall.

Not sure if all this makes sense but if anyone has any ideas or
advice, we'd appreciate it.

Thanks!

You need a trim carpenter. He needs to install a sufficiently high
baseboard around the room.

To do so, he may or may not have to shim out the recessed areas.
The area of concrete that projects from the wall could be cut off
or he could put the baseboard on that; in the latter case, the base
wouldn't meet the wall at the top so he could use a short thick
piece at the top then a thin baseboard under that.

After the baseboard, you need a shoe molding to hide the gap
between floor and baseboard.

+1 on this soluton.

Agree. At least that's all that I can say without seeing pics
of the actual problem. But it sounds like it can be covered up by
a wide enough molding, followed by a shoe molding. If concrete
sticks out more in some areas, it may be possible to remove
material from the back of the molding so it will fit.

I agree. And, some photos would probably help -- maybe by using a free image
upload site like:
http://tinypic.com/



When the OP wrote that the 4-inch baseboard is okay in some areas, but and
inch below the existing baseboard, it made me suspect that a wider baseboard
is needed. It is possible to use 1"x6" pine as a baseboard (with top trim
and shoe molding on the bottom), or look for other wider baseboard trim.



About the areas where the concrete wall sticks out a little too far -- chip
it back or grind it back.



Good luck.

| Or, simpler perhaps than matching baseboard but not quite as drastic, go
| with wainscot faux panels that are easily shimmed to the needed
| thickness...Gary Streiger did an article in Fine Homebuilding a few
| years back...
|
|
http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how-to/articles/simple-approach-to-paneled-wainscot.aspx
|

Wood is not much work, either. And HD sells cheap
and very thin T&G wainscot strips. Personally
I think the MDF/melamine panels are very chintzy
looking.

I hadn't thought of the wainscot idea. Maybe I'm
making wrong assumptions, but when I read about
a concrete floor I pictured an ultramodern or Bauhaus
type of place, with little or no trim.

On 06/19/2015 07:00 AM, CRNG wrote:
On Fri, 19 Jun 2015 06:57:00 -0400, "dadiOH"
wrote in

Courtney wrote:
snip

My husband thinks we should just try to match the color of the
laminate and paint it so we can draw attention away from it. I feel
like we need to make it better, but I have no idea how to fix it. I
tried to just set the 4 inch baseboard up against the more uniform
wall, but even that is super wavy....it lines up with the current
baseboard but then is an inch below it by the end of the wall.

Not sure if all this makes sense but if anyone has any ideas or
advice, we'd appreciate it.

Thanks!

You need a trim carpenter. He needs to install a sufficiently high
baseboard around the room.

To do so, he may or may not have to shim out the recessed areas. The area
of concrete that projects from the wall could be cut off or he could put the
baseboard on that; in the latter case, the base wouldn't meet the wall at
the top so he could use a short thick piece at the top then a thin baseboard
under that.

After the baseboard, you need a shoe molding to hide the gap between floor
and baseboard.


+1 on this soluton.



+2 it was great advice

| After the baseboard, you need a shoe molding to hide the gap between
floor
| and baseboard.
|
|
| +1 on this soluton.
|
| +2 it was great advice

Actually it's not such good advice, unless the
shoe molding is going to be attached to the
baseboard first. The laminate flooring needs
room for expansion. It shouldn't be nailed
through or glued to.

On 06/19/2015 11:24 AM, Mayayana wrote:
....

I hadn't thought of the wainscot idea. Maybe I'm
making wrong assumptions, but when I read about
a concrete floor I pictured an ultramodern or Bauhaus
type of place, with little or no trim.

I just figured typical a slab floor tract house...

--

On Fri, 19 Jun 2015 12:41:17 -0400, "Mayayana"
wrote:

| After the baseboard, you need a shoe molding to hide the gap between
floor
| and baseboard.
|
|
| +1 on this soluton.
|
| +2 it was great advice

Actually it's not such good advice, unless the
shoe molding is going to be attached to the
baseboard first. The laminate flooring needs
room for expansion. It shouldn't be nailed
through or glued to.


Um, I've installed 1,000s of ft. of base, over engineered T&G glued to
concrete. 3/8" (?) around the rooms for expansion. Any time shoe
molding was used, it was nailed last, counter sunk brads and finished
by the another crew.

OP should post pictures on a free hosting site; with links posted back
here.

On Friday, June 19, 2015 at 1:16:55 PM UTC-4, Oren wrote:
On Fri, 19 Jun 2015 12:41:17 -0400, "Mayayana"
wrote:

| After the baseboard, you need a shoe molding to hide the gap between
floor
| and baseboard.
|
|
| +1 on this soluton.
|
| +2 it was great advice

Actually it's not such good advice, unless the
shoe molding is going to be attached to the
baseboard first. The laminate flooring needs
room for expansion. It shouldn't be nailed
through or glued to.


Um, I've installed 1,000s of ft. of base, over engineered T&G glued to
concrete. 3/8" (?) around the rooms for expansion. Any time shoe
molding was used, it was nailed last, counter sunk brads and finished
by the another crew.

OP should post pictures on a free hosting site; with links posted back
here.

And anytime I've seen shoe molding, it's nailed to the base molding
not the floor......

On Fri, 19 Jun 2015 10:54:11 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Friday, June 19, 2015 at 1:16:55 PM UTC-4, Oren wrote:
On Fri, 19 Jun 2015 12:41:17 -0400, "Mayayana"
wrote:

| After the baseboard, you need a shoe molding to hide the gap between
floor
| and baseboard.
|
|
| +1 on this soluton.
|
| +2 it was great advice

Actually it's not such good advice, unless the
shoe molding is going to be attached to the
baseboard first. The laminate flooring needs
room for expansion. It shouldn't be nailed
through or glued to.


Um, I've installed 1,000s of ft. of base, over engineered T&G glued to
concrete. 3/8" (?) around the rooms for expansion. Any time shoe
molding was used, it was nailed last, counter sunk brads and finished
by the another crew.

OP should post pictures on a free hosting site; with links posted back
here.

And anytime I've seen shoe molding, it's nailed to the base molding
not the floor......

Same here if it used. The base ought to be nailed to the wall bottom
plate, first.

On 06/19/2015 1:07 PM, Oren wrote:
....

... The base ought to be nailed to the wall bottom
plate, first.

Sounds like there isn't such here excepting 2"+ above the floor; sounds
to me like slab construction with the rest poured 2"(+/-) above the
floor in question....

--

TomR wrote:

I agree. And, some photos would probably help -- maybe by using a
free image upload site like:
http://tinypic.com/



When the OP wrote that the 4-inch baseboard is okay in some areas,
but and inch below the existing baseboard, it made me suspect that a
wider baseboard is needed. It is possible to use 1"x6" pine as a
baseboard (with top trim and shoe molding on the bottom), or look for
other wider baseboard trim.


About the areas where the concrete wall sticks out a little too far
-- chip it back or grind it back.

Much easier and cleaner to remove suitable material from the back of the
baseboard.

Uncle Monster posted for all of us...



On Thursday, June 18, 2015 at 10:44:04 PM UTC-5, Courtney wrote:
We recently had new laminate floors put in our living room. It is a
sunken living room (about 2 inches lower) and the carpet that we just took
out extended up the wall two inches and then had a 2 inch simple baseboard
above that...so, carpet floor, carpet up the wall for 2 inches, 2 inch
baseboard, then painted wall.

We hired someone to do the floor because I knew our floor needed a lot of
help with leveling (concrete work). We asked them to take care of the 2
inch space by putting up a 4 inch baseboard, but once they pulled the
carpet up, there were a lot of problems that made it really difficult.

1. Under the 'wall carpet' was just concrete
2. Instead of uniform all around the room, on 2 walls, the concrete is
recessed from the current 2 inch baseboard, and on 2 walls it is
completely uneven...it goes from being recessed to having the concrete
come out an inch past the current baseboard.
3. All of the concrete is completely uneven and bumpy.

The company that did our floors said there was nothing they could do so
they just left it. It looks terrible and the laminate edges are just
hanging out against the wall with an inch gap between the laminate and
the wall.

My husband thinks we should just try to match the color of the laminate
and paint it so we can draw attention away from it. I feel like we need
to make it better, but I have no idea how to fix it. I tried to just set
the 4 inch baseboard up against the more uniform wall, but even that is
super wavy....it lines up with the current baseboard but then is an inch
below it by the end of the wall.

Not sure if all this makes sense but if anyone has any ideas or advice,
we'd appreciate it.

Thanks!

--

Perhaps a marine salvage company can refloat your sunken living room. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Drowned Monster

It sank, what did she expect?

--
Tekkie *Please post a follow-up*

Courtney posted for all of us...



We recently had new laminate floors put in our living room. It is a
sunken living room (about 2 inches lower) and the carpet that we just took
out extended up the wall two inches and then had a 2 inch simple baseboard
above that...so, carpet floor, carpet up the wall for 2 inches, 2 inch
baseboard, then painted wall.

We hired someone to do the floor because I knew our floor needed a lot of
help with leveling (concrete work). We asked them to take care of the 2
inch space by putting up a 4 inch baseboard, but once they pulled the
carpet up, there were a lot of problems that made it really difficult.

1. Under the 'wall carpet' was just concrete
2. Instead of uniform all around the room, on 2 walls, the concrete is
recessed from the current 2 inch baseboard, and on 2 walls it is
completely uneven...it goes from being recessed to having the concrete
come out an inch past the current baseboard.
3. All of the concrete is completely uneven and bumpy.

The company that did our floors said there was nothing they could do so
they just left it. It looks terrible and the laminate edges are just
hanging out against the wall with an inch gap between the laminate and
the wall.

My husband thinks we should just try to match the color of the laminate
and paint it so we can draw attention away from it. I feel like we need
to make it better, but I have no idea how to fix it. I tried to just set
the 4 inch baseboard up against the more uniform wall, but even that is
super wavy....it lines up with the current baseboard but then is an inch
below it by the end of the wall.

Not sure if all this makes sense but if anyone has any ideas or advice,
we'd appreciate it.

Thanks!

--

They should have leveled the floor before they started. This company has
"probably" done similar jobs like this nearby. They should cut the baseboard
to irregularities. You know the high spots will show wear marks faster...
Bitch and complain.

--
Tekkie *Please post a follow-up*

replying to Tekkie® , cwheels77 wrote:
Tekkie wrote:

Courtney posted for all of us...
They should have leveled the floor before they started. This company has
"probably" done similar jobs like this nearby. They should cut the
baseboard

to irregularities. You know the high spots will show wear marks faster...
Bitch and complain.
--
Tekkie *Please post a follow-up*



Wow! Thank you for all the very helpful responses! So far, we have
painted the concrete a color similar to the floor as a stopgap measure
until we get it resolved. I have put in a request with the contractor and
he is going to come out and try to find a solution. I like the idea of
adding a larger baseboard and chipping away to make room for the crazy
concrete.

I appreciate all the help!!
Courtney

--

replying to Mayayana , Courtney wrote:
mayayana wrote:

Just an additional note to what others have said:
It's hard to judge without actually seeing it, but
if some areas have to come out at least an inch
it might work to get creative: Build out a box, like
baseboard heating. That might then be useful to
support shelving or otherwise be incorporated into
the design. Maybe in some spots the base box
could go up 6-8' and 2+' wide, to produce things
like shadow boxes for paintings or shallow shelving
for wine glasses, so that the whole thing becomes
a satisfying design idea -- multi-planed walls.
In other words, it's better to work with the situation
in the design than to try to "fudge away" the bad walls.
It's beyond me why anyone would tear up carpet
to install a plastic floor, but I guess that's a matter
of taste. I expect that, like avocado toilets, we'll
all look back some day and say, "What were we
thinking?"



Thank you! I just wanted to say that we got laminate floor because the
carpet was super disgusting...pee stains, allergens and stinky... We got
really nice laminate the is super lovely! My allergies are so happy!!

--

On Friday, June 19, 2015 at 11:44:06 PM UTC-4, Courtney wrote:
replying to Tekkie® , cwheels77 wrote:
Tekkie wrote:

Courtney posted for all of us...
They should have leveled the floor before they started. This company has
"probably" done similar jobs like this nearby. They should cut the
baseboard

to irregularities. You know the high spots will show wear marks faster....
Bitch and complain.
--
Tekkie *Please post a follow-up*



Wow! Thank you for all the very helpful responses! So far, we have
painted the concrete a color similar to the floor as a stopgap measure
until we get it resolved. I have put in a request with the contractor and
he is going to come out and try to find a solution. I like the idea of
adding a larger baseboard and chipping away to make room for the crazy
concrete.

I appreciate all the help!!
Courtney

--

Getting that contractor back who didn't want to do it, couldn't do
it to begin with is a mistake. As someone told you in one of the
first posts, you need a finish carpenter. Let them screw around
and you're going to wind up with another incorrect job.

replying to trader_4 , cwheels77 wrote:
trader4 wrote:

s
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Getting that contractor back who didn't want to do it, couldn't do
it to begin with is a mistake. As someone told you in one of the
first posts, you need a finish carpenter. Let them screw around
and you're going to wind up with another incorrect job.



Yes, good point, thank you. My husband has the same thought. I just hate
to pay another person when the first one should have done it. I
appreciate the advice.

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In roups.com,
cwheels77 typed:
replying to trader_4 , cwheels77 wrote:

trader4 wrote:
Getting that contractor back who didn't want to do it, couldn't do
it to begin with is a mistake. As someone told you in one of the
first posts, you need a finish carpenter. Let them screw around
and you're going to wind up with another incorrect job.

Yes, good point, thank you. My husband has the same thought. I just
hate to pay another person when the first one should have done it. I
appreciate the advice.

Plus, if the original contractor comes back out to try to figure out a way
to do the fix, they will definitely be charging you for that anyway. That
part of the job is not the same thing as putting down the flooring, and when
they were there they said they couldn't figure out a way to do it. Putting
down the flooring is a different type of task than figuring out the
baseboard situation. They know how to put the flooring down, but they don't
know how to solve the baseboard issue.

Anyone with good carpentry skills could probably easily figure out a
solution and do it for you. I have a multi-skilled contractor/"handyman"
that I use for many projects. It is really just a job where someone needs
to create the right baseboard trim around the room as others have described.
And, just as an example, the person that I know could easily do this and his
cost to me is only $35/hour plus materials. I use the term "handyman" for
him because he can do a lot of different things well. If you know of such a
"handyman"/woman in your area, he/she may be able to fix this for you.

You wrote earlier, "...I like the idea of adding a larger baseboard and
chipping away to make room for the crazy concrete."

I think that is basically all that you will need. Whether chipping off some
parts of the concrete that stick out, or back-cutting the new baseboard in
those areas will be easier, will just depend on what you have there. The
person who does the job may do a little of each.

Good luck.