I have a condo and I want to run some Coax and twisted pair from the attic to the ground floor for service to a TV/Entertainment center.

Problem: The wall that I intend to run the wires down is 19' from ceiling to floor continuous, and on the other side of the wall is the floor of one of the bedrooms. I am pretty sure that since the wall is interior that the wall is hollow, but when I get to the floor joists of the bedroom, what can I expect to find ? The bedroom is standard 8' wood stud'ed walls probably with 2x4" across the top and bottom. My guess is that the floor joists are probably 2x10" with and end-cap that is either 1 or 2 2x10" w/1/2" plywood between for spacing.

Whats the best way to get the wires through this floor to the next wall section below ?

On 11/10/2014 2:31 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 10 Nov 2014 08:37:59 -0800 (PST), wrote:

I have a condo and I want to run some Coax and twisted pair from the attic to the ground floor for service to a TV/Entertainment center.

Problem: The wall that I intend to run the wires down is 19' from ceiling to floor continuous, and on the other side of the wall is the floor of one of the bedrooms. I am pretty sure that since the wall is interior that the wall is hollow, but when I get to the floor joists of the bedroom, what can I expect to find ? The bedroom is standard 8' wood stud'ed walls probably with 2x4" across the top and bottom. My guess is that the floor joists are probably 2x10" with and end-cap that is either 1 or 2 2x10" w/1/2" plywood between for spacing.

Whats the best way to get the wires through this floor to the next wall section below ?

You are going to run into a double top plate, a fire stop half way
down, the sole plate, the floor, another double top plate etc.
That is an interior wall. Exterior walls will have rim joists and
insulation so it will be pretty much impossible to fish.
The best you can hope for is that there is a chase around a plumbing
stack or something. Otherwise look to see if you can fish through a
closet and put in some surface raceway.
YMMV depending on the floor plan and type of construction.

There are long flexible drill bits. I have a 4' one, however, I think
they make them even longer. You might have to make a small hole in the
drywall and then repatch.

On Monday, November 10, 2014 1:31:17 PM UTC-6, wrote:
On Mon, 10 Nov 2014 08:37:59 -0800 (PST), wrote:

I have a condo and I want to run some Coax and twisted pair from the attic to the ground floor for service to a TV/Entertainment center.

Problem: The wall that I intend to run the wires down is 19' from ceiling to floor continuous, and on the other side of the wall is the floor of one of the bedrooms. I am pretty sure that since the wall is interior that the wall is hollow, but when I get to the floor joists of the bedroom, what can I expect to find ? The bedroom is standard 8' wood stud'ed walls probably with 2x4" across the top and bottom. My guess is that the floor joists are probably 2x10" with and end-cap that is either 1 or 2 2x10" w/1/2" plywood between for spacing.

Whats the best way to get the wires through this floor to the next wall section below ?

You are going to run into a double top plate, a fire stop half way
down, the sole plate, the floor, another double top plate etc.
That is an interior wall. Exterior walls will have rim joists and
insulation so it will be pretty much impossible to fish.
The best you can hope for is that there is a chase around a plumbing
stack or something. Otherwise look to see if you can fish through a
closet and put in some surface raceway.
YMMV depending on the floor plan and type of construction.

Yes, I most of that. I would like to have pipe-chase, but its on the other side of the condo and there would be little or now way to get my cables to the other side of the unit.

My plan was to drill a hole down through the top plates and then cut a hole in the wall in the bedroom to drill another hole down through to sole plate and the floor. What I didn't know what how many Rim Joists I would find or how they would be configured. From the pics I find on-line, if there was a Rim-Joist, there would be only 1 opposite away from the bedroom ?
Don't know if there is a fire stop, hadn't thought of that. The local code does not even call for sprinklers, do I may just have to drill and see.

Is the fire-stop just some special cocking to seal the crack, or a special material that is like a block of wood halfway down ?

Didn't think this was going to be easy, but I am tired of looking at the wires taped to the wall for 5 years.
Thanks.

I have a condo and I want to run some Coax and twisted pair from the attic to the ground floor for service to a TV/Entertainment center.

Problem: The wall that I intend to run the wires down is 19' from ceiling to floor continuous, and on the other side of the wall is the floor of one of the bedrooms. I am pretty sure that since the wall is interior that the wall is hollow, but when I get to the floor joists of the bedroom, what can I expect to find ? The bedroom is standard 8' wood stud'ed walls probably with 2x4" across the top and bottom. My guess is that the floor joists are probably 2x10" with and end-cap that is either 1 or 2 2x10" w/1/2" plywood between for spacing.

Whats the best way to get the wires through this floor to the next wall section below ?


*Cut a hole in the ceiling above your final destination (Using my 45 degree technique). The hole in the ceiling should give you a peek as to any obstacles in the way. Condo floors and ceilings tend to be loaded with utilities and it is easy to drill into something. You may find that the floor joists are actually trusses instead of solid wood. They are used to faciltate the installation of ducts and pipes. The trusses also make it easy to fish wires across the ceiling. If you have clearance in the ceiling below, cut a hole in the wall at the floor above a few inches above the baseboard molding big enough to get a drill and drill bit it in. You will need to drill twice. One hole through the top of the truss and wall plate and one through the bottom of the truss or support plate. Sometimes with my angle drill and a short auger bit I am able to drill down from the hole in the ceiling into the wall below, thus having one less hole to patch. If this is a bearing wall it may be solid wood where you want to drill down to. Condos are tricky because there is structure in place for the entire building. It is best to do some exploratory surguey first to see what you are up against.

One thing that you may find is that 19' wall may have additional blocking in it for firestops and to keep the studs from bending. If so you will need to notch around them.

I usually measure the thickness of the floor at the stairs to determine if trusses are used. If the floor thickness is 12" or less it could be solid. If it is thicker, like around 15" then you have trusses.

My 45 degree technique is simply cutting the hole in the drywall at a 45 degree angle. This way the drywall can be buttered with joint compound and the piece can be put back in where it came from without any taping. I butter both the wall and the piece to bring it out to nearly even with the original wall. Let the joint compound dry overnight and skim coat it the next day.

John Grabowski
http://www.MrElectrician.TV

On 11/10/2014 11:37 AM, wrote:

Whats the best way to get the wires through this floor to the next wall section below ?


I had a similar problem and ended up routing between 3 floors through some closets.
The nice thing about cutting access holes in a closet is that the quality of the drywall repair is not critical and you needn't be too fussy
about matching paint colors.

On Monday, November 10, 2014 5:22:36 PM UTC-6, Samuel wrote:
On 11/10/2014 11:37 AM, wrote:

Whats the best way to get the wires through this floor to the next wall section below ?


I had a similar problem and ended up routing between 3 floors through some closets.
The nice thing about cutting access holes in a closet is that the quality of the drywall repair is not critical and you needn't be too fussy
about matching paint colors.

What are your thoughts on installing a 1.25" plastic conduit to make it easier to pull/replace wires in the future ?

On Mon, 10 Nov 2014 15:24:24 -0500, Art Todesco
wrote:

On 11/10/2014 2:31 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 10 Nov 2014 08:37:59 -0800 (PST), wrote:

I have a condo and I want to run some Coax and twisted pair from the attic to the ground floor for service to a TV/Entertainment center.

Problem: The wall that I intend to run the wires down is 19' from ceiling to floor continuous, and on the other side of the wall is the floor of one of the bedrooms. I am pretty sure that since the wall is interior that the wall is hollow, but when I get to the floor joists of the bedroom, what can I expect to find ? The bedroom is standard 8' wood stud'ed walls probably with 2x4" across the top and bottom. My guess is that the floor joists are probably 2x10" with and end-cap that is either 1 or 2 2x10" w/1/2" plywood between for spacing.

Whats the best way to get the wires through this floor to the next wall section below ?

You are going to run into a double top plate, a fire stop half way
down, the sole plate, the floor, another double top plate etc.
That is an interior wall. Exterior walls will have rim joists and
insulation so it will be pretty much impossible to fish.
The best you can hope for is that there is a chase around a plumbing
stack or something. Otherwise look to see if you can fish through a
closet and put in some surface raceway.
YMMV depending on the floor plan and type of construction.

There are long flexible drill bits. I have a 4' one, however, I think

I have a 6' one. Do you want to see it?

they make them even longer. You might have to make a small hole in the
drywall and then repatch.

If he's good at smoothing the patch and matching the paint.

I'd go with GFr. Isn't there bound to be some spare space where the
heating duct goes from the basement to above the second story floor?
Not above the second story, but just above its floor, but the chase will
continue all the way to the attic. (Don't fall in.)

I had at least a half-square foot of empty space, but I found that the
floor between the first and second floor was still there. Maybe there
was space right next to the heating duct, but I couldn't see it.

Fortunately I had that 6' drill, and a non-flexible 1 foot extension,
and I lay on the attic floor with my arm down and was able to reach 8
feet to drill a hole through that board. (I can't imagine the hole is's
a violation of anything.)


By using cables/wires more than 20 feet long, I was able to tape other
wires to the middle of the first wire and pull second and third wires up
to, for AC, phone**, cable tv going up, cable tv going back down from
the cable box to the other tv's, burglar alarm sirens, burglar alarm
sensor for the back bedroom.

And I still left a couple wires out -- plan ahead -- and I don't think I
left a traveler string or wire, plus there might not be much room in
that hole anymore.


**The previous owner had sheetrocked over the phone jack.

On Monday, November 10, 2014 6:53:20 PM UTC-6, micky wrote:
On Mon, 10 Nov 2014 15:24:24 -0500, Art Todesco
wrote:

On 11/10/2014 2:31 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 10 Nov 2014 08:37:59 -0800 (PST), wrote:

I have a condo and I want to run some Coax and twisted pair from the attic to the ground floor for service to a TV/Entertainment center.

Problem: The wall that I intend to run the wires down is 19' from ceiling to floor continuous, and on the other side of the wall is the floor of one of the bedrooms. I am pretty sure that since the wall is interior that the wall is hollow, but when I get to the floor joists of the bedroom, what can I expect to find ? The bedroom is standard 8' wood stud'ed walls probably with 2x4" across the top and bottom. My guess is that the floor joists are probably 2x10" with and end-cap that is either 1 or 2 2x10" w/1/2" plywood between for spacing.

Whats the best way to get the wires through this floor to the next wall section below ?

You are going to run into a double top plate, a fire stop half way
down, the sole plate, the floor, another double top plate etc.
That is an interior wall. Exterior walls will have rim joists and
insulation so it will be pretty much impossible to fish.
The best you can hope for is that there is a chase around a plumbing
stack or something. Otherwise look to see if you can fish through a
closet and put in some surface raceway.
YMMV depending on the floor plan and type of construction.

There are long flexible drill bits. I have a 4' one, however, I think

I have a 6' one. Do you want to see it?

they make them even longer. You might have to make a small hole in the
drywall and then repatch.

If he's good at smoothing the patch and matching the paint.

I'd go with GFr. Isn't there bound to be some spare space where the
heating duct goes from the basement to above the second story floor?
Not above the second story, but just above its floor, but the chase will
continue all the way to the attic. (Don't fall in.)

I had at least a half-square foot of empty space, but I found that the
floor between the first and second floor was still there. Maybe there
was space right next to the heating duct, but I couldn't see it.

Fortunately I had that 6' drill, and a non-flexible 1 foot extension,
and I lay on the attic floor with my arm down and was able to reach 8
feet to drill a hole through that board. (I can't imagine the hole is's
a violation of anything.)


By using cables/wires more than 20 feet long, I was able to tape other
wires to the middle of the first wire and pull second and third wires up
to, for AC, phone**, cable tv going up, cable tv going back down from
the cable box to the other tv's, burglar alarm sirens, burglar alarm
sensor for the back bedroom.

And I still left a couple wires out -- plan ahead -- and I don't think I
left a traveler string or wire, plus there might not be much room in
that hole anymore.


**The previous owner had sheetrocked over the phone jack.

/* Isn't there bound to be some spare space where the
heating duct goes from the basement to above the second story floor? */

Probably is, but then I'm on the other side of the condo, and I'm on concrete slab. If I had a basement, it would be different and that would be ideal.
I have not problem patching holes, lots of experience.
What is GFr. ?

On 11/10/2014 10:37 AM, wrote:
I have a condo and I want to run some Coax and twisted pair from the attic to the ground floor for service to a TV/Entertainment center.

Problem: The wall that I intend to run the wires down is 19' from ceiling to floor continuous, and on the other side of the wall is the floor of one of the bedrooms. I am pretty sure that since the wall is interior that the wall is hollow, but when I get to the floor joists of the bedroom, what can I expect to find ? The bedroom is standard 8' wood stud'ed walls probably with 2x4" across the top and bottom. My guess is that the floor joists are probably 2x10" with and end-cap that is either 1 or 2 2x10" w/1/2" plywood between for spacing.

Whats the best way to get the wires through this floor to the next wall section below ?




I see a lot of contractors just run the wire /outside/ the house.It sure
is any easy solution but you'd want to do it on a side of the house not
easily visible.

philo wrote:

I see a lot of contractors just run the wire /outside/ the house.It sure
is any easy solution but you'd want to do it on a side of the house not
easily visible.

I've always been fond of Wiremold raceway but then I'm not Martha Stewart
when it comes to home decor. It's a lot easier than finding out someone was
trying to get rid of scrap 2x4's and was extra generous with the firestops.

You still gave to punch through the floors but that's doable with a little
care.

On Mon, 10 Nov 2014 19:53:17 -0500, micky
wrote:

On Mon, 10 Nov 2014 15:24:24 -0500, Art Todesco
wrote:

On 11/10/2014 2:31 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 10 Nov 2014 08:37:59 -0800 (PST), wrote:

I have a condo and I want to run some Coax and twisted pair from the attic to the ground floor for service to a TV/Entertainment center.

Problem: The wall that I intend to run the wires down is 19' from ceiling to floor continuous, and on the other side of the wall is the floor of one of the bedrooms. I am pretty sure that since the wall is interior that the wall is hollow, but when I get to the floor joists of the bedroom, what can I expect to find ? The bedroom is standard 8' wood stud'ed walls probably with 2x4" across the top and bottom. My guess is that the floor joists are probably 2x10" with and end-cap that is either 1 or 2 2x10" w/1/2" plywood between for spacing.

Whats the best way to get the wires through this floor to the next wall section below ?

You are going to run into a double top plate, a fire stop half way
down, the sole plate, the floor, another double top plate etc.
That is an interior wall. Exterior walls will have rim joists and
insulation so it will be pretty much impossible to fish.
The best you can hope for is that there is a chase around a plumbing
stack or something. Otherwise look to see if you can fish through a
closet and put in some surface raceway.
YMMV depending on the floor plan and type of construction.

There are long flexible drill bits. I have a 4' one, however, I think

I have a 6' one. Do you want to see it?

they make them even longer. You might have to make a small hole in the
drywall and then repatch.

If he's good at smoothing the patch and matching the paint.

I'd go with GFr. Isn't there bound to be some spare space where the
heating duct goes from the basement to above the second story floor?
Not above the second story, but just above its floor, but the chase will
continue all the way to the attic. (Don't fall in.)

I had at least a half-square foot of empty space, but I found that the
floor between the first and second floor was still there. Maybe there
was space right next to the heating duct, but I couldn't see it.

Fortunately I had that 6' drill, and a non-flexible 1 foot extension,
and I lay on the attic floor with my arm down and was able to reach 8
feet to drill a hole through that board. (I can't imagine the hole is's
a violation of anything.)


By using cables/wires more than 20 feet long, I was able to tape other
wires to the middle of the first wire and pull second and third wires up
to, for AC, phone**, cable tv going up, cable tv going back down from
the cable box to the other tv's, burglar alarm sirens, burglar alarm
sensor for the back bedroom.

And I still left a couple wires out -- plan ahead -- and I don't think I
left a traveler string or wire, plus there might not be much room in
that hole anymore.


**The previous owner had sheetrocked over the phone jack.
I made a 12 foot drill in 4 3 ft sections that thread together - made
out of 1/" water pipe. I used a forstner bit on the end.

wrote:
On Mon, 10 Nov 2014 17:41:49 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Monday, November 10, 2014 6:53:20 PM UTC-6, micky wrote:
On Mon, 10 Nov 2014 15:24:24 -0500, Art Todesco
wrote:

On 11/10/2014 2:31 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 10 Nov 2014 08:37:59 -0800 (PST), wrote:

I have a condo and I want to run some Coax and twisted pair from the attic to the ground floor for service to a TV/Entertainment center.

Problem: The wall that I intend to run the wires down is 19' from ceiling to floor continuous, and on the other side of the wall is the floor of one of the bedrooms. I am pretty sure that since the wall is interior that the wall is hollow, but when I get to the floor joists of the bedroom, what can I expect to find ? The bedroom is standard 8' wood stud'ed walls probably with 2x4" across the top and bottom. My guess is that the floor joists are probably 2x10" with and end-cap that is either 1 or 2 2x10" w/1/2" plywood between for spacing.

Whats the best way to get the wires through this floor to the next wall section below ?

You are going to run into a double top plate, a fire stop half way
down, the sole plate, the floor, another double top plate etc.
That is an interior wall. Exterior walls will have rim joists and
insulation so it will be pretty much impossible to fish.
The best you can hope for is that there is a chase around a plumbing
stack or something. Otherwise look to see if you can fish through a
closet and put in some surface raceway.
YMMV depending on the floor plan and type of construction.

There are long flexible drill bits. I have a 4' one, however, I think

I have a 6' one. Do you want to see it?

they make them even longer. You might have to make a small hole in the
drywall and then repatch.

If he's good at smoothing the patch and matching the paint.

I'd go with GFr. Isn't there bound to be some spare space where the
heating duct goes from the basement to above the second story floor?
Not above the second story, but just above its floor, but the chase will
continue all the way to the attic. (Don't fall in.)

I had at least a half-square foot of empty space, but I found that the
floor between the first and second floor was still there. Maybe there
was space right next to the heating duct, but I couldn't see it.

Fortunately I had that 6' drill, and a non-flexible 1 foot extension,
and I lay on the attic floor with my arm down and was able to reach 8
feet to drill a hole through that board. (I can't imagine the hole is's
a violation of anything.)


By using cables/wires more than 20 feet long, I was able to tape other
wires to the middle of the first wire and pull second and third wires up
to, for AC, phone**, cable tv going up, cable tv going back down from
the cable box to the other tv's, burglar alarm sirens, burglar alarm
sensor for the back bedroom.

And I still left a couple wires out -- plan ahead -- and I don't think I
left a traveler string or wire, plus there might not be much room in
that hole anymore.


**The previous owner had sheetrocked over the phone jack.

/* Isn't there bound to be some spare space where the
heating duct goes from the basement to above the second story floor? */

Probably is, but then I'm on the other side of the condo, and I'm on concrete slab. If I had a basement, it would be different and that would be ideal.

It might be worth investigating this chase anyway. If the floor joists
go all the way across you might be able to fish them.

Do you know the old chain trick?
When you are fishing, drop your string with couple of feet of steel
ball chain on the end. Then fish at the other end with a magnet. The
rare earth magnet from a bad hard drive is perfect. If you cut away
the extra metal, it will even fit through the 1/2" knock out in an
electrical box.
This one is on a piece of 10ga solid copper wire but the ear was not
cut off yet

http://gfretwell.com/electrical/fishing%20magnet.jpg

What is GFr. ?

Me?

Hi,
I just wonder if there is wireless solution. I don't know what OP is
trying to do.

On 11/10/2014 09:05 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 10 Nov 2014 19:57:09 -0600, philo wrote:


I see a lot of contractors just run the wire /outside/ the house.It sure
is any easy solution but you'd want to do it on a side of the house not
easily visible.

Condo commanders get pretty funny about anything outside your unit.




Yep, it may not get approval.

One reason I'll never live in a condo...
nothing I do would ever get approved.

On 11/10/2014 07:28 PM, wrote:
On Monday, November 10, 2014 5:22:36 PM UTC-6, Samuel wrote:
On 11/10/2014 11:37 AM, wrote:

Whats the best way to get the wires through this floor to the next wall section below ?


I had a similar problem and ended up routing between 3 floors through some closets.
The nice thing about cutting access holes in a closet is that the quality of the drywall repair is not critical and you needn't be too fussy
about matching paint colors.

What are your thoughts on installing a 1.25" plastic conduit to make it easier to pull/replace wires in the future ?


Great idea! If you got the wall open and can add spare conduit with relative ease, go for it.

And with new construction, running spare conduit between attic and basement or attic to utility room should be mandatory building code.

On Tuesday, November 11, 2014 4:04:19 AM UTC-6, Qwerty Uiop wrote:
On 11/10/2014 07:28 PM, wrote:
On Monday, November 10, 2014 5:22:36 PM UTC-6, Samuel wrote:
On 11/10/2014 11:37 AM, wrote:

Whats the best way to get the wires through this floor to the next wall section below ?


I had a similar problem and ended up routing between 3 floors through some closets.
The nice thing about cutting access holes in a closet is that the quality of the drywall repair is not critical and you needn't be too fussy
about matching paint colors.

What are your thoughts on installing a 1.25" plastic conduit to make it easier to pull/replace wires in the future ?


Great idea! If you got the wall open and can add spare conduit with relative ease, go for it.

And with new construction, running spare conduit between attic and basement or attic to utility room should be mandatory building code.

I have used flex stuff from HomeDepot before, works pretty well. but not this long of a run and through floors.

Wireless: I program for a living, and anytime I have the option of hardwired connection over a wireless, I always make sure Im wired!

HardDrive Magnets: great idea. They also make great shelf mounts for the sides of filing cabinets (or anything steal), just be careful, they stick so hard that if you slide the shelf, it takes paint with it!

Whats the best way to get the wires through this floor to the next wall section below ?


I had a similar problem and ended up routing between 3 floors through some closets.
The nice thing about cutting access holes in a closet is that the quality of the drywall repair is not critical and you needn't be too fussy
about matching paint colors.

What are your thoughts on installing a 1.25" plastic conduit to make it easier to pull/replace wires in the future ?


*Installing conduit is a good idea. However if you don't intend to open up the entire wall I suggest that you use flexible metal conduit (AKA Greenfield). It can be fished through the wall and your run doesn't need to be perfectly straight. Put connectors on each end with bushings to protect the wire from sharp edges. You can install a pull string for future wire pulls through it.

Whats the best way to get the wires through this floor to the next wall section below ?


I had a similar problem and ended up routing between 3 floors through some closets.
The nice thing about cutting access holes in a closet is that the quality of the drywall repair is not critical and you needn't be too fussy
about matching paint colors.

What are your thoughts on installing a 1.25" plastic conduit to make it easier to pull/replace wires in the future ?


*Installing conduit is a good idea. However if you don't intend to open up the entire wall I suggest that you use flexible metal conduit (AKA Greenfield). It can be fished through the wall and your run doesn't need to be perfectly straight. Put connectors on each end with bushings to protect the wire from sharp edges. You can install a pull string for future wire pulls through it.

For stuff like this smurf tube is better (type ENT, the blue stuff at
HD) . It is a little stiffer than greenfield so you can push and aim
it easier and it is smoother inside.
You also cut it with a knife and you don't have those jagged ends.


*I didn't know that they made it in inch and a quarter.

On Mon, 10 Nov 2014 17:41:49 -0800 (PST), wrote:


**The previous owner had sheetrocked over the phone jack.

/* Isn't there bound to be some spare space where the
heating duct goes from the basement to above the second story floor? */

Probably is, but then I'm on the other side of the condo, and I'm on concre=
te slab. If I had a basement, it would be different and that would be idea=
l.
I have not problem patching holes, lots of experience.
What is GFr. ?

GFretwell

On Mon, 10 Nov 2014 22:14:29 -0500, wrote:


I made a 12 foot drill in 4 3 ft sections that thread together - made
out of 1/" water pipe. I used a forstner bit on the end.

I should have thought of that. It was hard to drill from 8 feet up. I
forget exactly why.

On Wednesday, November 12, 2014 2:05:53 AM UTC-6, micky wrote:
On Mon, 10 Nov 2014 22:14:29 -0500, wrote:


I made a 12 foot drill in 4 3 ft sections that thread together - made
out of 1/" water pipe. I used a forstner bit on the end.

I should have thought of that. It was hard to drill from 8 feet up. I
forget exactly why.

Went to HomeDepot, they didn't even know what the blue stuff was. went to Menards, they had 3/4" and 1" in 10' whips or 100' roles. All I need is 30', the sales guy tried to convince me to just buy 10' pieces and use couplers.
My better sense tell me that I don't what a break in the wall.
Any place else that I can buy this stuff ?

On Friday, November 14, 2014 8:40:26 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Wednesday, November 12, 2014 2:05:53 AM UTC-6, micky wrote:
On Mon, 10 Nov 2014 22:14:29 -0500, wrote:


I made a 12 foot drill in 4 3 ft sections that thread together - made
out of 1/" water pipe. I used a forstner bit on the end.

I should have thought of that. It was hard to drill from 8 feet up. I
forget exactly why.

Went to HomeDepot, they didn't even know what the blue stuff was. went to Menards, they had 3/4" and 1" in 10' whips or 100' roles. All I need is 30', the sales guy tried to convince me to just buy 10' pieces and use couplers.
My better sense tell me that I don't what a break in the wall.
Any place else that I can buy this stuff ?

Smurf tube? Ask at your local electrical supply house.

On Fri, 14 Nov 2014 05:40:21 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Wednesday, November 12, 2014 2:05:53 AM UTC-6, micky wrote:
On Mon, 10 Nov 2014 22:14:29 -0500, wrote:


I made a 12 foot drill in 4 3 ft sections that thread together - made
out of 1/" water pipe. I used a forstner bit on the end.

I should have thought of that. It was hard to drill from 8 feet up. I
forget exactly why.

I remember. It was because the shaft of the bit bent. When it's in a
wall it can only bend so far, but it's not that way in the stack/chase.

Are you going down the walls or down the space in the stack? It's been
days and I've lost track.

Went to HomeDepot, they didn't even know what the blue stuff was.

I don't know what blue stuff is either.

went to Menards, they had 3/4" and 1" in 10' whips or 100' roles.

What does, plastic water pipe? Pex comes in rolls but I doubt you
can't use that to extend a dril. It's more flexible than the flexible
drills.

Clare was talking about, well, I'm not sure what screws together other
than threaded metal pipe, but he was talking about something that
doesn't bend much, not PEX.

All I need is 30', the sales guy tried to convince me to just buy 10' pieces and use couplers.
My better sense tell me that I don't what a break in the wall.
Any place else that I can buy this stuff ?

On Fri, 14 Nov 2014 15:06:05 -0500, micky
wrote:

On Fri, 14 Nov 2014 05:40:21 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Wednesday, November 12, 2014 2:05:53 AM UTC-6, micky wrote:
On Mon, 10 Nov 2014 22:14:29 -0500, wrote:


I made a 12 foot drill in 4 3 ft sections that thread together - made
out of 1/" water pipe. I used a forstner bit on the end.

I should have thought of that. It was hard to drill from 8 feet up. I
forget exactly why.

I remember. It was because the shaft of the bit bent. When it's in a
wall it can only bend so far, but it's not that way in the stack/chase.

Are you going down the walls or down the space in the stack? It's been
days and I've lost track.

Went to HomeDepot, they didn't even know what the blue stuff was.

I don't know what blue stuff is either.

went to Menards, they had 3/4" and 1" in 10' whips or 100' roles.

What does, plastic water pipe? Pex comes in rolls but I doubt you
can't use that to extend a dril. It's more flexible than the flexible
drills.

Clare was talking about, well, I'm not sure what screws together other
than threaded metal pipe, but he was talking about something that
doesn't bend much, not PEX.
1/2 inch galvanized water pipe - schedule 40. I dare you to bend it
(or twist it off). It will throw you off a ladder before it will
twist, bend, or brak.

All I need is 30', the sales guy tried to convince me to just buy 10' pieces and use couplers.
My better sense tell me that I don't what a break in the wall.
Any place else that I can buy this stuff ?

On Fri, 14 Nov 2014 16:25:21 -0500, wrote:


What does, plastic water pipe? Pex comes in rolls but I doubt you
can't use that to extend a dril. It's more flexible than the flexible
drills.

Clare was talking about, well, I'm not sure what screws together other
than threaded metal pipe, but he was talking about something that
doesn't bend much, not PEX.

1/2 inch galvanized water pipe - schedule 40. I dare you to bend it
(or twist it off). It will throw you off a ladder before it will
twist, bend, or brak.

Okay, I guessed right. That has weight enough to make sure the drill
bites, when you're drilling down. Not up, but I was drlling down.

How did you attach the drill bit to the pipe?


I'm sure this would make drilling another hole in second-floor-floor a
lot easier. Right now I have the coax for the Intenet running down the
stairway. Maybe that's what I wanted to hide.


All I need is 30', the sales guy tried to convince me to just buy 10' pieces and use couplers.
My better sense tell me that I don't what a break in the wall.
Any place else that I can buy this stuff ?

On Fri, 14 Nov 2014 22:14:29 -0500, micky
wrote:

On Fri, 14 Nov 2014 16:25:21 -0500, wrote:


What does, plastic water pipe? Pex comes in rolls but I doubt you
can't use that to extend a dril. It's more flexible than the flexible
drills.

Clare was talking about, well, I'm not sure what screws together other
than threaded metal pipe, but he was talking about something that
doesn't bend much, not PEX.

1/2 inch galvanized water pipe - schedule 40. I dare you to bend it
(or twist it off). It will throw you off a ladder before it will
twist, bend, or brak.

Okay, I guessed right. That has weight enough to make sure the drill
bites, when you're drilling down. Not up, but I was drlling down.

How did you attach the drill bit to the pipe?


I'm sure this would make drilling another hole in second-floor-floor a
lot easier. Right now I have the coax for the Intenet running down the
stairway. Maybe that's what I wanted to hide.


All I need is 30', the sales guy tried to convince me to just buy 10' pieces and use couplers.
My better sense tell me that I don't what a break in the wall.
Any place else that I can buy this stuff ?
I bought a drill extention and cut it in half. One end welded to one
pipe reducer nipple, the other end on another pipe reducer nipple.
Then thread pipe between the 2 nipples. I needed it to drill 12 feet
horizontally through 2X12 floor joists supporting a raised theatre
floor (resting on concrete floor). Worked just fine.

On Fri, 14 Nov 2014 23:06:42 -0500, wrote:

On Fri, 14 Nov 2014 22:14:29 -0500, micky
wrote:

On Fri, 14 Nov 2014 16:25:21 -0500, wrote:


What does, plastic water pipe? Pex comes in rolls but I doubt you
can't use that to extend a dril. It's more flexible than the flexible
drills.

Clare was talking about, well, I'm not sure what screws together other
than threaded metal pipe, but he was talking about something that
doesn't bend much, not PEX.

1/2 inch galvanized water pipe - schedule 40. I dare you to bend it
(or twist it off). It will throw you off a ladder before it will
twist, bend, or brak.

Okay, I guessed right. That has weight enough to make sure the drill
bites, when you're drilling down. Not up, but I was drlling down.

How did you attach the drill bit to the pipe?

I bought a drill extention and cut it in half. One end welded to one
pipe reducer nipple, the other end on another pipe reducer nipple.
Then thread pipe between the 2 nipples.

Wow, thanks. Quite a project for me. I'm not very good at welding, but
I could try. The last time was 30 years ago with Solid-Ox. I still
have some of that, if it's still good, and I have a tip that burns
oxygent and Mapp gas, probably not hot enough?

I've been looking for an excuse to buy a small acetylene set up, but I
have no room for it anyhow. I must make room.

OTOH, today I was turning off and drianing the garden faucet, and I came
across just the piece of masonite I need to reinforce my attic wall.
It's one layer of T!-11 and an inner layer that is gradually falling
apart where the electrician mounted a floodlight outside, with a winged
molly, or whatever it's called. Bought an LED fixture this time, so
maybe this will be the last time I have to remount it. So it can be
good to have a crowded laundry room.

I needed it to drill 12 feet
horizontally through 2X12 floor joists supporting a raised theatre
floor (resting on concrete floor). Worked just fine.

Wonderful.